Land Rover TD5 Oil in harness FIX!!
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2022
- I bought a 1999 TD5 90 Defender. It ran rough. Checked the ECU (electronic control unit) and found it covered in oil. In this video I show how the oil gets into the wiring harness and how to make a permanent FIX. So far so good.
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Thanks very much for this Phil.
This is actually a very good detailed video addressing the problem, and showing the solution very clearly, as compared to any other video that has been put up on UA-cam addressing this issue.
Baie Danke Menier.
Matthew
I think people are to quick to discard items that can be repaird. In this case it is replaced with an item that will suffer the same problems as before. Mooi loop.
Baie dankie vir hierdie video Phil.
Ek het nog nooit die ECU oop gesien nie.
Dankie ook vir die wenke oor die koppeling van die weefgetouwkopbedrading met die supergom en staal stopverf seëlaar.
Altyd 'n plesier om jou video's te kyk Phil.
Weereens dankie,
Die uwe,
Matt.
My plesier, ek hoop dit help die eienaars om nie te vinnig hulle ECU's te vervang nie.
Groete Phil.
Great shot mate 👍
Thanks, it is difficult to take a bad shot with a Land Rover in it.
@@PhilUys Absolutely ! Luckily the Discovery's ECU does not have the same symptom as the Defender's because the box is located in an elevated position next to the battery and not below the front seat.
@@x5or One would think LR could design a better harness so it did not matter were the ECU is located. Crazy.
I just bought a new injector harness to stop the oil creep. They are pretty cheap.
Once in a while, I disconnect the red plug from the ECU and clean it out. Soon enough all oil from the main harness is gone.
Yes, eventually the oil drains through the main harness. Just make sure the new injector harness connector plug has been upgraded to prevent oil entering it.
Hello
Thank you for a great informative video. I have had so many issues with my TD5 that it's costing a small fortune. At the moment it's in the garage - I've had the engine replaced. They have now informed me that I need a new ECU because oil is creeping into it. This will cost a further lump sum. I'm at my wits and with it.
My husband and I have looked at your video with great interest and my husband wants to know "How do you get rid of the oil that is already in the main loom?" If there is won't it get back into the ECU.
Thank for your help.
Hi, that is a good question. I don't think it is possible to remove the oil. I also don't think if the oil is prevented from entering from above it will be sufficient to cause any further damage. What I have done on two occasions now is to check the connector at the ECU for oil. It is still dry. Do this every 1000km or so and wash any new oil off should there be any. Over time it must stop. It takes a long time for enough oil to damage the ECU. Maybe your ECU is not damaged and only needs a good clean. Good luck.
Make absolutely sure ALL the oil is washed out of both connectors (top and red bottom) before buying a new ECU. Your current ECU must be opened top and bottom and cleaned thoroughly.
The chance of it working is pretty good.
Thank you Phil. I just collected the ECU from the garage and told him that we saw your awesome video on UA-cam, he then suggested that we find a company to precondition it rather than do it ourselves. I'm doing my research now.
Once again can't thank you enough.
Good, if you are going to open it yourself just take care when working close to the connectors, easy does it. It is not difficult.
After I fixed this (replacing the injector loom & cleaning stuff) built a little gizmo for cleaning oil out of the main harness...
I found an old radiator header tank, with a main hose roughly 1" diameter (I got one off a Citroen).
Cut the main plug off the old injector loom and then cut the shell off it so you're just left with a circular connector.
Stuff the connector into the end of the hose on the header tank and secure it with a hose-clip.
Rig up an air-line so the header tank can be pressurised with air ONLY to a couple of psi, at most.
Connect the main wiring loom to the connector in the end of the hose, disconnect the red connector from the ECU, empty a can of contact cleaner into the header tank, put the cap on, pressurise the tank with air and then leave it for the weekend, repressurising the tank if it leaks.
After a day or so, you'll see oil dripping out of the red connector, which can be cleaned.
FWIW, I've got an onboard compressor with an air tank in my Disco'.
The tank stays pressuried to 120psi and then I put a propane regulator in the line that I ran from the air-tank to the radiator header tank used to flush the oil out.
That way, the regulator uses the air-tank to keep the header tank pressurised to ~100mbar, which is just enough to help flush the oil out of the wiring.
Seems kind of bizarre to be using an electrical connector to blow compressed air through wiring but it works!
That sounds like a good way to clean out the main harness. Well done.
But did you re-gas the loom with approved Lucas loom smoke afterwards?
Hi, have you tried this on more than this harness? I am tempted to try it, but want to make sure this is a tested and safe way. My Defender Td5 2006 has only got 64 000km on it, and no trace of oil in the red ECU connector, and I want to keep it that way. Have got a new harness and seal, so might pull the trigger on your method. But I am a bit worried that the sealent and epoxy might come off/delute and travel into the oil, causing damage to the engine....
Hi, no I have only done my own vehicle. The chance of the sealant or epoxy coming off is very small. Make sure the products are resilient to oil and chemicals. If you are worried then only do the sealing bit in the connector. Good luck.
@@PhilUys thanks for the answer. Hope it works great 👍😊
@philUys did you clean the injector heads with break cleaner too?
No.
Did you cure the oil seepage problem? And do you get seepage from the original leak coming down the loom into the ECU ?
I have not taken the loom plug on the cylinder head apart since the repair. But after driving 10 000km I did check the red connector and found no oil to speak off. It does take a while for the old oil in the harness to work it's way down. I am satisfied that the modification works and never think about possible oil in harness issues.
Ehat about electronic board cpeaner wont that be better on the ecu board?
Yes, pcb cleaner will work perfectly. All we are trying to do is remove oil. So any electrical solvent should do the job.
Use the correct stuff like Electric Contact Cleaner instead of brake cleaner or Q20.
Maybe you don't know what Q20 is used for. It is for electrical connectors, printed circuit boards, relays and electronics. Brake Cleaner was used to get rid of the heavy dirty oil from a diesel engine.
@@PhilUys Why not use electrical contact cleaner that is purposely made for cleaning electrical connections and devices, the active chemical in most brake cleaners is Tetrachloroethylene or acetone, brake cleaner can damage plastics, rubber and waxes, something that is unwanted with ECUs.
Why people are so obsessed with finding alternatives for purposely made products will always amaze me, the damaged and completely ruined electronic equipment I often see from using all sorts of cleaners or solvents is beyond belief.
It makes sense to use the correct stuff. I am aware of the damage brake cleaner could cause to electronic equipment. That is why I said use Q20 or equivalent on the ECU. I don't have a problem using Q20 on electronic equipment. It works pretty well and most people will have a can in their garage. I take your point.
@@PhilUys "most people will have a can in their garage" That is often the frightening part, people sometimes use the most weird stuff to do relatively simple jobs because they "had it at hand" I often see expensive damage because of that.
Maybe "instead" is the wrong word?
After faffing around with this problem, I found the whole thing really NEEDS to be a 2-stage operation; degreaser or brake cleaner to get the oil out and then contact cleaner to remove any residue left by the degreaser.
Contact cleaner, alone, isn't great at flushing the oil out and degreaser, alone, leaves a residue.
Best result I got was by hosing the connector with degreaser, blowing it all out with air and then hitting it with contact cleaner.
Ah, i think may need to clean the bottom of the ECU out then, before i do anything with the crank senor side, I only did the loom, and the ECU pins, but not the bottom of the ECU board! Might explain why its running like a bag of shite at the moment still.
Yeah, most people only do the pins and loom part. I found most of the oil is at the bottom of the ECU board. Good luck. Your crank sensor is probably o.k.
@@PhilUys i hope so pal, i have just bought a loom for it. So i will double check the ECU before i go messing about with electrics