All that detail and then skips the actual fixing procedure? Could’ve had a lot more views. Did you reflow the whole circuit board or just the headlight relays???
2013 Fiat 500 Lounge with the same exact issue here. I haven't pulled the BCM out yet, but my mech says replacing it is nearly impossible because they are hard to find. I'm not above pulling it out myself, but I have no experience soldering. Could you explain what needs to be done so I can have a professional repair the headlight relays?
Hi Rob; thanks for taking the time to help. Great video. Can you tell me which part of the BCM controls the trunk release? I get no power from the CBM to activate the trunk release. Thanks
I also have the same problem with my wife's car. And need to replace the relays too. Can you tell me where did you find the relays, so I can buy them too. And your videos really helped me a whole lot. Cuz I couldn't figure it out until I saw how you did it. thanks again.
Hi Rob. I have the BCM taken apart. How did you separate the 2 piece circuit board to re-solder the relays? Or were you able to do it without separating the two boards?
I was able to fit my iron in between the two boards to get at 2 joints on the fuse side of the board. I flipped the board (headlight relays facing down) and was able to get 2 joints from between the board and the large black connector socket. Fortunately, that was enough to fix my problem because I didn't want to go any deeper. Pulling the boards apart is the only way to get at the pins properly, though. You will need a solder sucker to do this: remove the solder from the 26-pin connector at the corner of the board, opposite the fuses and headlight relays. Reflow your joints, and then solder the 26-pin connector back on.
hello Rob, thank you for your videos I have a Fiat 500 petrol 1.2 from 2010, and my problem is the rear left brake light which remains permanently on, and the daytime running lights do not work despite activation on the dashboard do you think it's also a relay problem on the body computer? thanks for your help Pascal
Not sure off top of my head, but I've read that the wires running through the rubber sheath at top/left corner of hatch degrade to the point the wires short out. Less commonly, the actual rear door latch/switch can go bad (usually just needs switch cleaning). I'm going to make some assumptions: 1-you already checked fuses (F32, F38, and F87) and verified that both inside door handles are unlocked, then manually locked driver's door w/key, then unlocked all doors by long-pressing keyfob. 2-You've checked the rubber sheath for shorted/broken wires. 3-You've shorted the rear hatch middle pin and black wire with a paperclip to hear the click/buzzing sound that is the hatch trying to open (If you hear it, switch/handle needs cleaning or replacing). That said, open the BCM and carefully plug it back in (be sure not to let the board touch any metal surfaces). You may be able to tap the relays w/a screwdriver handle while an assistant attempts to open the back hatch. You should feel the relay click in sync w/the back hatch switch opening/closing. When you find the relay, verify it needs solder-work by applying side pressure in each direction. If it suddenly works only while pushing the left side of the relay, then you will probably have to unsolder the two boards sandwiched together to get at the back of it and reflow its joints. Hope that helps.
I have the 2013 but my lights go into reverse mode where turning them off turns them on and turning them on turns them off. But if they are off, ( but switched to on position) and I turn off the car, they go on, and stay on. So sometimes I just can't get the lights off.
i have the same car but not the same problem , my problem is whene i want to open the car with the remote control i have to be very very close to the driver's door , and the problem is not from the remote control because i changed the battery and i cleaned it very well and i even changed the antenna of my remote control so i think the problem is from this BCM please help thank you
Hi Rob, on our Euro Abarth with Xenon, the high beam does not flick on or flash when activated with the stalk. All other light is ok. Do you have any idea if the high beam is controlled in the BCM as well? Thanks
Watching your diy process to get to the location in all is stumped by not showing how the soldering was done and that is what should be recorded and shown so we may and save as much money and effort as you did. Please develop a soldering video for this fix thank you.
@@jonzcomet Uhh... that's a completely separate skill. That's not a relevant video step because if it was a skill you had, you would know what to do now. If you don't know how to solder or anything about PCB repair, then you should show these videos to someone who does and ask them to do this for you. AFTER YOU DIAGNOSE... which involves the clicker checking steps, and then removing this thing and taking it to an electric repair place. A cell phone repair shop could probably do this, whether they would or not is another matter. But he literally held our hands through the entire process except for the totally separate skill that involves more advanced tools and a technical skillset. You'd have to buy the gear and supplies, and practice until you knew what you were doing or you'd fry the whole board. If anything, not showing that part is a deterrent against you getting in way over your head and making a worse problem for yourself. I would not fault him for that. I was a certified Board Repair Tech for HP years ago, and what you're asking for is a miracle...
Rob thanks for the videos on this subject. I'm having the same problem. I was able to extract the circuit board from the bcm. However, I have no idea how you were able to resolder the relays. The points are sandwiched between the boards. Can you explain how you did the soldering portion?
I was able to fit my iron in between the two boards to get at 2 joints on the fuse side of the board. I flipped the board (headlight relays facing down) and was able to get 2 joints from between the board and the large black connector socket. Fortunately, that was enough to fix my problem because I didn't want to go any deeper.
Pulling the boards apart is the only way to get at the pins properly, though. To do this, remove the solder from the 26-pin connector at the corner of the board, opposite the fuses and headlight relays. Reflow your joints, and then solder the 26-pin connector back on.
If you don't want to pull the board apart, you can try the zip-tie method - it's got about a 70% success rate, but it is not a permanent fix because the solder joints will eventually corrode enough to open them up again. It works by applying pressure to the relay, forcing relay pins to make contact. Take a zip-tie, loop it around the sides of both relays together. Keep the zip-tie as close to the motherboard as possible and cinch it down tight. Now plug everything up and see if the headlights are working correctly. Hope that helps.
Rob Greuling I hooked up the board without the gray case, attempting to see if moving the relays would cause them to turn off and they stayed on. Unfortunately, I don't think a ziptie would make a difference. At this point I'm not entirely sure resolding them will be the fix. However I did purchase a junkyard bcm and hooked it up to confirm that my lights work on the new bcm. It just doesn't start given the anti theft measures in the key fob. If just hitting the points again didn't work I was thinking about swapping out the relays entirely but that would definitely require separation of the boards. Of coarse that would only work if the ultimate problem wasn't a cracked circuit board or some other unknown. I have a call out to Fiat to see if they'll let me rekey to the salvaged working bcm, so we'll see. I'm hoping to avoid major circuit board surgery.
I've been told the headlight stalk (multifunction switch) fixes the majority of "lights won't turn off" gripes. I pulled it apart to see what makes it tick. It is pretty straight forward. I did some light cleaning and reassembly, but it didn't fix my gripe. I rapped the side of the BCM w/a screwdriver handle and lights turned off. I did it several times to verify before I pulled my BCM and opened it up. Like you, I plugged in the BCM board w/out the case. Turned lights on then off, and flicked those relays and sure enough...they went off. I zip tied them together and they worked as designed...on off on off on off several times w/no intermittent issues at all. That's how I verified the cold solder joints. Just so happens that I was able to get in there enough to reflow four of the eight between the two relays.
Rob, Great videos! It's been a few months since you posted these videos, just curious if the issue has resurfaced since the re-solder job you performed. We are experiencing the same issue on our daughter's 500 Pop, looks like the BCM is an easier/ less expensive place to start. Thanks!
I'm having the same issue with my headlights not going off and I have a 2013 Fiat 500 Pop. They don't stay on all of the time but when they do I have to discharge the battery in order for them to go off and even when I reconnect the battery, they're still on. I have tried everything I can think off and I can't seem to fix the problem. All of the other lights work just fine, even the low beams that the switch are connected with work perfectly. Just the headlights wont turn off. Any suggestions on how I can fix the issue without it costing me a fortune. I support myself and I live paycheck to paycheck so this is really troublesome to me as you can imagine. I don't know anything about cars also. I know that's a bad thing but any suggestions would help. Thanks!
He makes it pretty clear how to diagnose the issue. If it's what you're hearing also, then you need to know how to repair circuit boards / reflow solder. He used a skill you either have already - or you have to learn - or you pay someone who has it. I'm not sure he could tell you much more than he does... there's no easy button. The videos were very thorough.
PT1 at approximately 3min/30sec covers it. You'll need a T-30 Torx bit to get the 2 screws that hold it in place. Once loose, you can reach in behind it (blindly) and feel the two connectors. IRC, you can reach the long side of the bottom connector easiest, then go after the top connector.
Hi Rob, i think i may have a similar bcm issue but with intermittent wipers. Do you know which relay controls that? Great vids btw, very helpful. Cheers Chris
No, I'm sorry. I don't. Check fuses first..could be as easy as a sloppy seat. If that doesn't work, try the flick test on the wiper stalk to see if the wipers intermittently come on (if so, you will need to repair the stalk). If that doesn't produce anything, move down to the stalk wiring wiggle test, looking for same intermittent function. If that STILL doesn't reproduce your gripe, then turn on your wipers and tap the BCM while listening for the relay to 'tick' each time the wiper swipes. You'll need to repeat w/the cover off (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH CIRCUITS or CIRCUITS TO ANYTHING ELSE..might be useful to have an assistant), follow the ticking sound, touching the relay to find the ticker. Hope that helps :)
All that detail and then skips the actual fixing procedure? Could’ve had a lot more views. Did you reflow the whole circuit board or just the headlight relays???
2013 Fiat 500 Lounge with the same exact issue here.
I haven't pulled the BCM out yet, but my mech says replacing it is nearly impossible because they are hard to find. I'm not above pulling it out myself, but I have no experience soldering.
Could you explain what needs to be done so I can have a professional repair the headlight relays?
Do you have a video showing you separating the boards to reflow the solder?
Hi Rob; thanks for taking the time to help. Great video. Can you tell me which part of the BCM controls the trunk release? I get no power from the CBM to activate the trunk release. Thanks
Thank you very informative. I'm very sorry about the color of your car!🙂
Cheers pal, helps alot, about to do my alfa romeo
Great stuff and great man thank you sir
I also have the same problem with my wife's car. And need to replace the relays too. Can you tell me where did you find the relays, so I can buy them too. And your videos really helped me a whole lot. Cuz I couldn't figure it out until I saw how you did it. thanks again.
Hi Rob. I have the BCM taken apart. How did you separate the 2 piece circuit board to re-solder the relays? Or were you able to do it without separating the two boards?
I was able to fit my iron in between the two boards to get at 2 joints on the fuse side of the board. I flipped the board (headlight relays facing down) and was able to get 2 joints from between the board and the large black connector socket. Fortunately, that was enough to fix my problem because I didn't want to go any deeper.
Pulling the boards apart is the only way to get at the pins properly, though. You will need a solder sucker to do this: remove the solder from the 26-pin connector at the corner of the board, opposite the fuses and headlight relays. Reflow your joints, and then solder the 26-pin connector back on.
How did you spread the 2 boards from each other, are those bridge connecters soldered? Cheers
Great work
hello Rob, thank you for your videos
I have a Fiat 500 petrol 1.2 from 2010, and my problem is the rear left brake light which remains permanently on, and the daytime running lights do not work despite activation on the dashboard
do you think it's also a relay problem on the body computer?
thanks for your help
Pascal
please can you show a another video on how to replace BC module of fiat punto 1.4 16v sport, 2012
Hi Rob, any idea what could be for a unresponsive Trunk opening and Light? Tracked down to the body control module, but haven't opened it yet.
Not sure off top of my head, but I've read that the wires running through the rubber sheath at top/left corner of hatch degrade to the point the wires short out. Less commonly, the actual rear door latch/switch can go bad (usually just needs switch cleaning). I'm going to make some assumptions: 1-you already checked fuses (F32, F38, and F87) and verified that both inside door handles are unlocked, then manually locked driver's door w/key, then unlocked all doors by long-pressing keyfob. 2-You've checked the rubber sheath for shorted/broken wires. 3-You've shorted the rear hatch middle pin and black wire with a paperclip to hear the click/buzzing sound that is the hatch trying to open (If you hear it, switch/handle needs cleaning or replacing).
That said, open the BCM and carefully plug it back in (be sure not to let the board touch any metal surfaces). You may be able to tap the relays w/a screwdriver handle while an assistant attempts to open the back hatch. You should feel the relay click in sync w/the back hatch switch opening/closing. When you find the relay, verify it needs solder-work by applying side pressure in each direction. If it suddenly works only while pushing the left side of the relay, then you will probably have to unsolder the two boards sandwiched together to get at the back of it and reflow its joints. Hope that helps.
What does it mean to reflow solder joints? I have the same issue with my 2013 Fiat 500 and can't afford going to a dealership to fix it.
I have the 2013 but my lights go into reverse mode where turning them off turns them on and turning them on turns them off. But if they are off, ( but switched to on position) and I turn off the car, they go on, and stay on. So sometimes I just can't get the lights off.
i have the same car but not the same problem , my problem is whene i want to open the car with the remote control i have to be very very close to the driver's door , and the problem is not from the remote control because i changed the battery and i cleaned it very well and i even changed the antenna of my remote control so i think the problem is from this BCM please help thank you
Hi Rob, on our Euro Abarth with Xenon, the high beam does not flick on or flash when activated with the stalk. All other light is ok. Do you have any idea if the high beam is controlled in the BCM as well? Thanks
Can u show a a video on the soldering part?
I don't have a soldering video, but I'm sure there are many DIY how to videos on it.
Watching your diy process to get to the location in all is stumped by not showing how the soldering was done and that is what should be recorded and shown so we may and save as much money and effort as you did. Please develop a soldering video for this fix thank you.
@@jonzcomet Uhh... that's a completely separate skill. That's not a relevant video step because if it was a skill you had, you would know what to do now.
If you don't know how to solder or anything about PCB repair, then you should show these videos to someone who does and ask them to do this for you. AFTER YOU DIAGNOSE... which involves the clicker checking steps, and then removing this thing and taking it to an electric repair place. A cell phone repair shop could probably do this, whether they would or not is another matter.
But he literally held our hands through the entire process except for the totally separate skill that involves more advanced tools and a technical skillset.
You'd have to buy the gear and supplies, and practice until you knew what you were doing or you'd fry the whole board.
If anything, not showing that part is a deterrent against you getting in way over your head and making a worse problem for yourself.
I would not fault him for that. I was a certified Board Repair Tech for HP years ago, and what you're asking for is a miracle...
Rob thanks for the videos on this subject. I'm having the same problem. I was able to extract the circuit board from the bcm. However, I have no idea how you were able to resolder the relays. The points are sandwiched between the boards. Can you explain how you did the soldering portion?
I was able to fit my iron in between the two boards to get at 2 joints on the fuse side of the board. I flipped the board (headlight relays facing down) and was able to get 2 joints from between the board and the large black connector socket. Fortunately, that was enough to fix my problem because I didn't want to go any deeper.
Pulling the boards apart is the only way to get at the pins properly, though. To do this, remove the solder from the 26-pin connector at the corner of the board, opposite the fuses and headlight relays. Reflow your joints, and then solder the 26-pin connector back on.
If you don't want to pull the board apart, you can try the zip-tie method - it's got about a 70% success rate, but it is not a permanent fix because the solder joints will eventually corrode enough to open them up again. It works by applying pressure to the relay, forcing relay pins to make contact. Take a zip-tie, loop it around the sides of both relays together. Keep the zip-tie as close to the motherboard as possible and cinch it down tight. Now plug everything up and see if the headlights are working correctly. Hope that helps.
Rob Greuling I hooked up the board without the gray case, attempting to see if moving the relays would cause them to turn off and they stayed on. Unfortunately, I don't think a ziptie would make a difference. At this point I'm not entirely sure resolding them will be the fix. However I did purchase a junkyard bcm and hooked it up to confirm that my lights work on the new bcm. It just doesn't start given the anti theft measures in the key fob. If just hitting the points again didn't work I was thinking about swapping out the relays entirely but that would definitely require separation of the boards. Of coarse that would only work if the ultimate problem wasn't a cracked circuit board or some other unknown. I have a call out to Fiat to see if they'll let me rekey to the salvaged working bcm, so we'll see. I'm hoping to avoid major circuit board surgery.
I've been told the headlight stalk (multifunction switch) fixes the majority of "lights won't turn off" gripes. I pulled it apart to see what makes it tick. It is pretty straight forward. I did some light cleaning and reassembly, but it didn't fix my gripe. I rapped the side of the BCM w/a screwdriver handle and lights turned off. I did it several times to verify before I pulled my BCM and opened it up. Like you, I plugged in the BCM board w/out the case. Turned lights on then off, and flicked those relays and sure enough...they went off. I zip tied them together and they worked as designed...on off on off on off several times w/no intermittent issues at all. That's how I verified the cold solder joints. Just so happens that I was able to get in there enough to reflow four of the eight between the two relays.
Rob, Great videos!
It's been a few months since you posted these videos, just curious if the issue has resurfaced since the re-solder job you performed.
We are experiencing the same issue on our daughter's 500 Pop, looks like the BCM is an easier/ less expensive place to start.
Thanks!
Nope. Hasn't resurfaced.
I'm having the same issue with my headlights not going off and I have a 2013 Fiat 500 Pop. They don't stay on all of the time but when they do I have to discharge the battery in order for them to go off and even when I reconnect the battery, they're still on. I have tried everything I can think off and I can't seem to fix the problem. All of the other lights work just fine, even the low beams that the switch are connected with work perfectly. Just the headlights wont turn off. Any suggestions on how I can fix the issue without it costing me a fortune. I support myself and I live paycheck to paycheck so this is really troublesome to me as you can imagine. I don't know anything about cars also. I know that's a bad thing but any suggestions would help. Thanks!
He makes it pretty clear how to diagnose the issue.
If it's what you're hearing also, then you need to know how to repair circuit boards / reflow solder.
He used a skill you either have already - or you have to learn - or you pay someone who has it.
I'm not sure he could tell you much more than he does... there's no easy button. The videos were very thorough.
for engine number 955A 16v of 2012 sport (fiat)
We are working on ours right now. How did you disconnect the back? Can't seem to find a way to get behind the BCM.
PT1 at approximately 3min/30sec covers it. You'll need a T-30 Torx bit to get the 2 screws that hold it in place. Once loose, you can reach in behind it (blindly) and feel the two connectors. IRC, you can reach the long side of the bottom connector easiest, then go after the top connector.
Hi Rob, i think i may have a similar bcm issue but with intermittent wipers. Do you know which relay controls that? Great vids btw, very helpful. Cheers Chris
No, I'm sorry. I don't. Check fuses first..could be as easy as a sloppy seat. If that doesn't work, try the flick test on the wiper stalk to see if the wipers intermittently come on (if so, you will need to repair the stalk). If that doesn't produce anything, move down to the stalk wiring wiggle test, looking for same intermittent function. If that STILL doesn't reproduce your gripe, then turn on your wipers and tap the BCM while listening for the relay to 'tick' each time the wiper swipes. You'll need to repeat w/the cover off (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH CIRCUITS or CIRCUITS TO ANYTHING ELSE..might be useful to have an assistant), follow the ticking sound, touching the relay to find the ticker. Hope that helps :)
Sorry, I don't.
Where are you located? i have some cash for you to fix the same problem!
So where’s the fix?