Going a step further - I used sunlu standard working on a massive print on my Heygears reflex, Saturn 4 ultra and GK2 - and all parts still fit together - No shrinkage and no problems from slicer to slicer and printer to printer.
The Heygears Reflex uses a 385 nm curing wavelength as opposed to the Reflex RS and other 3d printer most people use ( 405 nm ), so it should be very easy to use third party resin as long as exposure time matches the Heygears range
I think that for most people this is a good test but was wondering if you could print some test prints like a cube and measure it if it is over or under expose or maybe perfect. I print electronic boxes that needs to fit perfectly.
I'm in the same boat. I work in Dental, and will be running my own tests with various resins. Received my printer, but I haven't had a chance to set it up just yet.
Another great video. More videos like this and love your approach "what the average person wants" As an avergae person who wants to print and go love these not so techincal videos.
@@Joe-Skynet don't forget to remove the film on the bottom of the fep like I did. Couldn't tell why my first print failed until I realized I had forgotten that film.
@@greedy3d480 will do, already been getting models ready in the blueprint software...I'm shocked it will get here today, I ordered it literally the last hour on the last day it had the early release price
Great video, you doing all the tests I want to do, but now don't have to. Any chance of getting a tutorial on using the heygears blueprint studio? I have found the automatic features are great. But the manual options are unintuitive. Specifically hollowing and adding drain holes. Coming from leechy slicer, blueprint has been frustrating in this respect.
Awaiting shipping on my printer. My question is, with the extra price it cost to buy the printer, I couldn't justify wash & cure system to go with it. As you print larger model's , which I also intend to do, which wash & cure statstions do you recommend for larger prints? I'm sure I saw a review you did on an R2D2 where the body wouldn't fit in the basket of a Mars wash station? I envisage having similar issues, so I thought I'd ask for opinion 😊
The Elegoo wash and cure station combo (Mercury X) is a decent size for anything off a Saturn (or Reflex) sized build plate. Elegoo has lots of promotions and sales, you can potentially pick up the wash and cure station for under $200 USD. The Jupiter/SE, well that is where things get dicey, but I have a huge 3 liter sonic cleaner for the "BIG" stuff that does ok, but requires some elbow grease to clean well. For reference I have 2 of the Elegoo wash and cure stations, one for water washable and one for IPA, and they are awesome, hands down better than the AnyCubic wash and cure combo which I have retired and given away. Hope that helps.
I'm curious which one of the preset profiles you would recommend for an Elegoo standard translucent (and rapid cure resins)? I have tons of the stuff, but haven't gotten through my promo bottle of HeyGears PAWW10 yet. Since I can't see what settings the slicer is using, I've been working with PARP10 for my PAWW10 and it's come out fine sans some minor de lamination issues I can usually address by reorienting the model. For detailed stuff, I just can't make myself use the 50 micron only for the PAWW10, really sad they don't open up a bit more on the profiles to tweak, but maybe some day?
I have my Rs arriving tomorrow, and I plan on starting a small 3d printing business and I know the RS has a closed system, so I was thinking if there was maybe a resin from hey gears that matched the resin I am trying to use or even any other resin type that has the same characteristics. i want to use the KeySplint Soft from Keystone Industries, or something similar that can be used orally, I am looking around in some forums but I will regardless buy some of this to try, I will keep you updated big dawgi dawg
Any chance you could print something with set dimensions and then measure with calipers to check the shrinkage that way? I personally need accurate models and don't necessarily care about things fitting together. Thank you!
I know you've tested multiple resins and they all seem to print, however which would you say, provides the best prints of the non-heygears brand resins. If you had to choose 1 and only 1, all things considered. Which resin are you purchasing? I tried a similar test with the Aqua8k resin from phrozen and it was not pretty, it did print but horribly over exposed on both Pap10 and Parp10.
Best HeyGears preset settings for printing with Sunlu ABS like resin? For those wanting high quality mass printing capabilities with a less expensive resin!
Thanks I really love and appreciate your work looking into all the possibilities this printer offers both within its ecosystem and outside. Keep up the great work.
It's not complicated at. The easiest of any printer. If it needs to be done. The machine tells you exactly how to do it with real time adjustment data.
This test is kind of pointless as for example shrinkage would happen on all parts. I recommend a test print and meassure shrinkage and warping instead of some abstract vague thing. Print a tank with large flat surfaces and try glue it together in 5 different resins. Most wobbly tough resins will struggle printing even a cube that is an actual cube. These printers print faces well and horrible at cubes. On the face you just cant tell that its 1% warped and slighty skewed, the forces applied to thin rectangular large areas are also huge and very little forces holding it together compared to that of for example a square which is unlikely to change shape.
I think it's far from Pointless most of us print models we're not doing high precision manufacturing stuff and for me as long as the model goes together properly hi and I suspect many more people are happy with that
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Going a step further - I used sunlu standard working on a massive print on my Heygears reflex, Saturn 4 ultra and GK2 - and all parts still fit together - No shrinkage and no problems from slicer to slicer and printer to printer.
The Heygears Reflex uses a 385 nm curing wavelength as opposed to the Reflex RS and other 3d printer most people use ( 405 nm ), so it should be very easy to use third party resin as long as exposure time matches the Heygears range
I think that for most people this is a good test but was wondering if you could print some test prints like a cube and measure it if it is over or under expose or maybe perfect. I print electronic boxes that needs to fit perfectly.
I'm in the same boat. I work in Dental, and will be running my own tests with various resins. Received my printer, but I haven't had a chance to set it up just yet.
Thank you for your continued experiments! I just got my printer, and I'm excited to start my own.
Enjoy 😉
Another great video. More videos like this and love your approach "what the average person wants" As an avergae person who wants to print and go love these not so techincal videos.
Man after my own heart 😄
That's awesome! They look like they fit perfectly!
Just received mine today so I'm starting my own tests now 🎉
@@Joe-Skynet don't forget to remove the film on the bottom of the fep like I did. Couldn't tell why my first print failed until I realized I had forgotten that film.
I like your videos. Best regards from Germany.
been loving these videos and have watched every one as my reflex RS arrives today and can't wait to dive in
Fab and thank you let me know know how you get on with it so exciting
@@greedy3d480 will do, already been getting models ready in the blueprint software...I'm shocked it will get here today, I ordered it literally the last hour on the last day it had the early release price
Great information thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Great video, you doing all the tests I want to do, but now don't have to.
Any chance of getting a tutorial on using the heygears blueprint studio? I have found the automatic features are great. But the manual options are unintuitive. Specifically hollowing and adding drain holes. Coming from leechy slicer, blueprint has been frustrating in this respect.
Yeah i candour that 👍
Awaiting shipping on my printer. My question is, with the extra price it cost to buy the printer, I couldn't justify wash & cure system to go with it. As you print larger model's , which I also intend to do, which wash & cure statstions do you recommend for larger prints? I'm sure I saw a review you did on an R2D2 where the body wouldn't fit in the basket of a Mars wash station? I envisage having similar issues, so I thought I'd ask for opinion 😊
The Elegoo wash and cure station combo (Mercury X) is a decent size for anything off a Saturn (or Reflex) sized build plate. Elegoo has lots of promotions and sales, you can potentially pick up the wash and cure station for under $200 USD. The Jupiter/SE, well that is where things get dicey, but I have a huge 3 liter sonic cleaner for the "BIG" stuff that does ok, but requires some elbow grease to clean well. For reference I have 2 of the Elegoo wash and cure stations, one for water washable and one for IPA, and they are awesome, hands down better than the AnyCubic wash and cure combo which I have retired and given away. Hope that helps.
I'm curious which one of the preset profiles you would recommend for an Elegoo standard translucent (and rapid cure resins)? I have tons of the stuff, but haven't gotten through my promo bottle of HeyGears PAWW10 yet.
Since I can't see what settings the slicer is using, I've been working with PARP10 for my PAWW10 and it's come out fine sans some minor de lamination issues I can usually address by reorienting the model. For detailed stuff, I just can't make myself use the 50 micron only for the PAWW10, really sad they don't open up a bit more on the profiles to tweak, but maybe some day?
I would like to see elegoo Rapid Standard Resin Grey.
Cool
I have my Rs arriving tomorrow, and I plan on starting a small 3d printing business and I know the RS has a closed system, so I was thinking if there was maybe a resin from hey gears that matched the resin I am trying to use or even any other resin type that has the same characteristics. i want to use the KeySplint Soft from Keystone Industries, or something similar that can be used orally, I am looking around in some forums but I will regardless buy some of this to try, I will keep you updated big dawgi dawg
Any chance you could print something with set dimensions and then measure with calipers to check the shrinkage that way? I personally need accurate models and don't necessarily care about things fitting together. Thank you!
I know you've tested multiple resins and they all seem to print, however which would you say, provides the best prints of the non-heygears brand resins. If you had to choose 1 and only 1, all things considered. Which resin are you purchasing? I tried a similar test with the Aqua8k resin from phrozen and it was not pretty, it did print but horribly over exposed on both Pap10 and Parp10.
For me jamghe standard pro., sunlu abs like or the jamghe water washable if that's your bag ...my top 3
Best HeyGears preset settings for printing with Sunlu ABS like resin? For those wanting high quality mass printing capabilities with a less expensive resin!
Parp10 for me
Have you tried printing any clear resins?
That's coming very soon
Thanks I really love and appreciate your work looking into all the possibilities this printer offers both within its ecosystem and outside. Keep up the great work.
Have you tested any without the PRM ?
Yes I have tested without it and it works just fine 🙂
would not mind if you looked at the bad leveling looks difficult and i have just bought one from your recommendation
Om all the time I've had these printers I've not had to do any kind of leveliing...let me know a bit more please
It's not complicated at. The easiest of any printer. If it needs to be done. The machine tells you exactly how to do it with real time adjustment data.
This test is kind of pointless as for example shrinkage would happen on all parts. I recommend a test print and meassure shrinkage and warping instead of some abstract vague thing. Print a tank with large flat surfaces and try glue it together in 5 different resins. Most wobbly tough resins will struggle printing even a cube that is an actual cube. These printers print faces well and horrible at cubes. On the face you just cant tell that its 1% warped and slighty skewed, the forces applied to thin rectangular large areas are also huge and very little forces holding it together compared to that of for example a square which is unlikely to change shape.
I think it's far from Pointless most of us print models we're not doing high precision manufacturing stuff and for me as long as the model goes together properly hi and I suspect many more people are happy with that
this is not a shrinkage test
It shows that nothing has shrunk during or after printing