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Thank you Greedy 3D I've also made purchases from TEMU and for the most part I get what I paid for. Though be very cautious and not only look at the pictures but read their descriptions and dimensions. Some of the descriptions may not be clear enough and you may wind up with something other than what you thought. You may also need to make a certain amount in your shopping cart to process the order, other than this happy shopping.

Thanks for sharing your experiment results, greatly appreciated. 👍👍👍

do you pick the Z-Compensation when using the PRM? I noticed that when I use the PRM it automatically selects it when slicing, and when I do not use the PRM the Z-Comp is not auto selected when slicing? What are your thought on the Z-compensation setting when slicing. I ask, because I do not understand why or when to use it. What are your thoughts and knowledge of this options.

hey greedy how abut you make a video on how to re-greese a 3d printer im sure one of your saturn machines might be due would be usefull to know which lubricants to use

Very nice testing! Now that you’ve narrowed it down to water, can you try variation on that? Longer times, different temps, how about after post-curing? 🤔

Hello, may I also ask if the pulse module is displayed on the machine and can only be used for 3000h. After that, do I need to buy a new pulse module?

Did you get a new camera? Whatever it is, the video quality looks better.

The injectable tube looks like it takes standard syringe tips

So what is the best method assuming you are using 5 warm water and the PRM? PRM Print > IPA clean > 5 minute warm water > remove supports > cure? Or PRM Print > 5 minute warm water > remove supports > IPA clean > cure?

My ultrasonic cleaner has a heater, I should use it. Although I am using Simple Green instead of water.

I’ve been using water washable resins and soaking prints in hot water with dishwashing liquid to remove supports and clean them. I then let them dry and then cure. So far so good.

The problem I found with the heat gun or hair dryer method is that you are causing more vapor from resin or resin and alcohol. I might switch the the hot water but there Is always the chance of breaking a small bit so snipping supports off first is best in that case. One method that wasn't tried was an ultrasonic knife. I'd be curious if that would be an alternative. Especially when you get a patreon who don't know how to do pre supports and does autosupports with a bunch of heavies.

thanks, love it.

Not more expensive than IPA? You can get 10 liters 99% IPA for ~$20, that's a hell of a price difference. Unfortunately, that's the only thing that speaks for IPA, though.

So we need to buy a PRM now?

can you edit the support tip in Blueprint? I find the best results is to have the contact point as a sphere and by controlling the depth the support breaks off leaving the sphere behind witch is later mutch easier to sand down rather than having to fill the divets

Interesting, Anthony, but how do you dispose of the dirty water with resin in it ?

Additional problem: what to do of the contaminated, cooled water afterwards? All the more so if you 3D print a lot throughout the day and all the week!

Shame you hadnt uploaded this video before i ordered my RS. Looks like there is an argument for purchasing the PRM after all from the results of your testing. I'll just have to hope that HeyGears decide to allow the sale of the PRM unit to those of us who have ordered the heated vat as a retro fit

Great comparison video, Mr. Greedy! Also, the timing of this video is perfect. I had a “3D nerd” idea, about supports, this morning. Thinking about the perforations the manufacturer places on the roll of paper towel. The perforations allow the user to more easily tear off a sheet of paper towel. Now, what if The 3D slicer software developers could create a “perforation” (series of on and off voxels) on the tip of the support, where the support meets the 3D model? So, layer by layer, as the slicer (and thus, the 3D printer) creates each layer, you would have this perforated row of UV-cured voxels. Since a typical support tip is anywhere between 120 microns (on the small size) and 300 microns (on the large size), the Heygears RS, for example, with about 30 micron-size x-y pixels and 30 or 50 micron layer height, would have a 120 micron small tip width of 4 voxels (a perforation of 2 on and 2 off voxels) and a 300 micron large tip width of 10 voxels (a perforation of 5 on and 5 off voxels). All this to say, if the support tip had a perforated tip surface up against the 3D model surface, I wonder if the support tip would “pull away” more easily and leave less-noticeable divits or nubs?

Thank you for the good information

Have you figured out how to create the least amount of supports with the smallest connection points in blueprint using the settings you can change? They seem quite dense and it looks like there’s support settings in the slicer but not exactly easy to understand what they modify. Can they be “thinned out”? Without having to buy the PRM.

I always use the hair drier, too. Might be worth trying the hot water. :D I've always been tempted by that Sonic Saber blade that Phrozen has. Maybe that would be the magic wand of removing supports without marks. :D

Welp. You’ve convinced me. Thank you. I’ll be using your code when I order the RS later. Thank you for all of these videos.

What’s interesting is that Joel’s video showed a decent drop in print time, but his video is older and using the original Reflex. If you select the older printer in Blueprints, does it show a decent difference in time or is it similar to the RS deltas?

Temu sells ur info once they have it u cant trust anything from china and all they sell is cheap junk that doesnt last also the below comment is correct ive heard that also

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Bought 20 kg meta black and 10 kg white for 11 dollars per kg. 330 dollar for 30 kg. You have to live in EU for that price. USA other country is 14 dollar and this price is only for meta black and white.

When you say you felt air from the cooling system, what did you think was causing that? There is no cooling fan in that unit. I've got the same one. If I use it for extended periods (30 mins +) it gets very hot. I'm going to do a cooling fan mod on it. Fitting x2 12v computer fans. There's a tutorial on YT.

I was looking at the machine as I'm ready to upgrade to a bigger one, as they had this bundle i wanted to see what exactly the Pulsing Release Module did, and you showed it off wonderfully! Now i can go be super sad that i apparently live in one of the countries they don't ship to *Cries in a corner*

This doesn't proof much: how would the model print if it were sliced as for the PRM, but printed without one? Now this could just be a very expensive slicer tweak which would work as well without as with the PRM hardware. I'm not saying this is the case, but with testing it like this, it could be. Can you not block the airflow from the PRM to see whether it is actually needed to get the print out as sliced for the PRM?

Thank you very much for your actual test. I have already ordered RS, but there are still many questions about whether PRM is necessary. We are using it for product development prototypes and need a better printing surface to reduce the time of post-processing and polishing. It seems that PRM is indeed available. Helps slightly, but not a huge difference.

Would this liquid mask work on spray paint too?

how long do you let the wash sit?

Great video! Been wondering if I want the pusle system. Question, if you go with the RS - do you need the heygears cure station? I can't tell if my uniformation cure will cure the heygears resin.

Just wondering: can you refill a HeyGears resin bottle (and hence use even autofill with another brand of resin)?

If I had money to burn maybe. But, thanks Greedy!! Great info as always!!! Cheers! 🍺

Dude.. Support generation is always random. U cant slice them separately and expect the same results. You should compare the same. So a presupported Model sliced with or without the prm mode.

Hi mate. Thanks for the videos. I have purchased the RS and waiting for it to arrive. The final decision was largely thanks to your review. Have you tried any other transparent resins beside the JAMG HE Clear resin? I’m after a really translucent resin like the PAT10. I noticed the resin in the video review of the above resin wasn’t as clear. Thanks again. cheers

You could have checked the peel forces by printing a hollow cube with minimal holes to reduce suction.

Cool review I always like to see who is coming out with new ideas or concepts even if I am not interested in making a purchase at the time. Thanks for the review and your time. 😃

I see Wicked3d's Wolverine in progress there.

How about the $750 for the Hey Gears curing station? The $350 for the wash system appears to have been compelling.

Excellent video (the macro photo comparisons were very useful too). Greedy, I’ve seen video clips (not sure by HeyGears or other UA-camrs) showing real-time “peel force” measurement lines (they look like cardiac EKG measurement lines) on the HeyGears Reflex user-interface LCD screen while a 3D print was being made. The video clip showed a comparison between models made with non-PRM (a sharp, high peel-force spike) vs. models made with PRM (very low peel-force “much smaller spike or “bump””). Have you looked for this “peel-force” visual indicator in the user-interface setting on the Reflex or Reflex RS? If it is there, perhaps you could take a look at this graphical peel-force indicator when making future prints (with and without the PRM). Cheers, and thanks for all your efforts for your UA-cam followers!

Thanks for the video. loving the option of saving more than half in resin. What would be the profile on the RS for Sunlu ABS-Like resin? any idea?

Thank you for the review. I was one of the folks who asked about the PRM and I appreciate the detailed review. If you are going to buy a heated vat, then it’s really only $400 or $440 with the sale.

Can I get that free 3d ??

Have you used sunlu abs like water washable resin in the new heygears printer?

I'd sooner spend the extra money to add a filter. It's the biggest failing of the RS against the GKTWO. I've still ordered the RS but inmy view I'd sooner invest in less fumes & hopefully safer air conditions than on something that will knock a few mins of time & use a few grams of resin less

May I ask where you stand on the video by once in a six side on the login and today’s announcement that it will be gone by December