Thank you for this video. I received my artisan over a week ago and became intimated after building it, afraid of messing something up, that I haven’t used it yet. I think today is the day!
Good luck and let me know, if you were successful. :-) My tipp: when doing something with your Snapmaker for the very first time, always do a bounding box run and have one hand on the ergency stop button. I own the Snapmaker 2.0 which does not come with a stop button by default and I had to learn some lessons the hard way. ;-)
@@harvey7113 My shipment is completely different from every unboxing of the artisan that Ive seen. it came in 5 different boxes by two different shippers (UPS and FED EX) my enclosure only opens in the front, making it difficult to access anything at all. Most of the instructions are for other machines, so I had to jump around in different videos to put it all together, and most confusing, I have an extra stop button.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Thank you for recommending non-toxic materials unlike other UA-camrs. One suggestion, you are missing out on affiliate links to the materials you used. You missed the opportunity to link to the drinkware, the black paint, the titanium dioxide powder, and even the airbrush that can handle chalky, perhaps clumpy sprays like the titanium dioxide mix.
What an excellent idea!! What about adjusting position to get it registered? Has it some trick, like that point I see on a tape at the top of the glass? how can you control you don't move the rotary tool when positioning the glass, what do you align it with? Do you engrave the white engraving on top of the back engraving or in your artwork you leave that out of the second engraving?
Hey Fancylooks. The realignment question has been asked before, so just let me copy the answer from there: Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
Hey Fancylooks, as you already imagined, the second (white) layer is just on top of the first (black) layer from a solid form. Lasering over the black areas does no harm. The question has been asked before and I posted the screenshots on Instagram for illustration: instagram.com/p/C2ISJQUotyV/?igsh=MW9pZXpkMWJtd3p1dw instagram.com/p/C2ISOaUId4l/?igsh=aGxodTV3OTBlZG1i
@@harvey7113 I love the technique of the sticky washable tape with the cross, I have some very durable sticker paper that would do the trick for me. I will experiment with the print and cut aligment feature in lightburn, thank you for the idea and the explanation, really helpfull!
@@harvey7113 Oh, this is the type of info that really, really helps, you are very kind to explain your technique and post photos about how to prepare the artwork it!
If I would make one or two glasses again, I wouldn‘t change much. But two things were a bit exhausting and I would probably optimize that for batch production: 1. Applying the coatings with the tiny air brush took really some time. I would try something different, like an „airless sprayer“. 2. Aligning the laser each time was tricky. Maybe align the laser once and attach a mechanical pointer to the rotary for alignment of just the rotation. Does that make sense?
@@harvey7113 Thanks for the reply. That is my question about how to keep things in registration. A mechanical pointer sounds like a good ideas a well. Would that be your "+" label? I'm using a snapmaker 2 10w as well.
@@danenderle154You would need both - a label on your glass and a corresponding marker (like a paper arrow) fixed on your rotary base. I you keep the x, y and z home coordinates and just adjust the rotary axis (b), a label with just a vertical line would suffice. Just make sure that the glass always sits flush in the chuck and the line from the sticker is at the same position as your marker on you rotary base. Good luck! Please let me know if you had success.
Great video, just a quick question, as a quick google search did not come back with the answer. Does the paint need to be titanium oxide when using white paint to get the darker/black colour in the etching? I ask as I have been using basic tempera black paint for coating the glass, and then etching with it. The black paint i have been using gives me the white frosted looking, however I have not tried using a white tempera paint to see if it will yield a different result.
Hey Jordan, thank you for your comment and question. Short answer: Yes, it has to be Titanium Dioxide. Long answer: For the white frosting, the compound of the paint is rather irrelevant. It is just to absorb the blue laser beam and convert it to small spot of heat, which will result in microfractures in the smooth glass surface. The paint will vaporize completely and leave the injured, frosty glass surface. The darker the color is, the easier the beam can be absorbed. That is why I use black paint. But it should work with any color, even white, as long as it does not contain any TiO2. If you have a CO2 laser, you can event omit the paint for this phase. The CO2 laser emits infrared light, which will be absorbed by glass. But if you use TiO2 particles or a paint with a high level of TiO2, the TiO2 particles will not vaporize but "melt" to the glass surface. At the same time, the particles suffer from the same microfractures (or similar transformation) as the glass, but here the particles become more absorbant and thus appear black. Disclaimer: I am not a chemist, so maybe my explanation is not 100% correct.
Great Video! Question.. Where can I find the black rubber looking jig you used for adapting the glass to mount with the rotary tool, and what it that called? Thank You In Advance, Glenn from Colorado
I actually 3D printed this centring device myself. It's not rubber, it's hard plastic (PLA). You can't see it in the video, but the surface is not straight, it has steps in it. It's just stacked cylinders of 1mm height, each cylinder 1mm smaller in diameter than the one below. You have to fiddle with the jig a bit until the right diameter clicks in, and then the glass is perfectly aligned with the axis of rotation. I hope this makes sense.
@@harvey7113 Thanks for getting back to me on this.. I've been still learning and progressing with My Snapmaker Ray Laser, and finally ready to begin using the Rotary Tool Accessory and I wanted to say how much I appreciate your video.. Looks Like I'll be firing up the 3D Printer Next.. Cheers! -Glenn
I have an idea for your positioning. I haven’t used my rotary yet so not sure what parts “move” but on a non moving part of the rotary make a line, then on the “Plug” make a line, then on any item you need exact alignment, make a line (Like you did with the +) on a piece of tape and put it on the item in the middle of design area (Also like you did) now align all three lines. Each time you go back to that exact area just realign all three lines. You wouldn’t have to make a mark on the plug if the line on the machine itself was close enough to be able to accurately align, but I figured if you have a line closer to the cup it would be easier to align. If you’re bored, maybe try it. Where is the design for the plug? I finally got the “test” laser project completed and need to get back down there and do some more. I’m just learning and the whole “Settings” and using Luban confuses me. The test design (rulers) was a hassle and took a lot of time/frustration as it doesn’t tell you that it shows the design up in the right corner, not centered
for the second layer, was it just a full background that was lasered completely over the first image, or did it have blank areas to match the first layer? It would be helpful to see both images on the computer screen.
Hi Mark, the second layer is just a solid form. Burning over the contour of the first layer does no harm. I posted the screenshots on Instagram: instagram.com/p/C2ISJQUotyV/?igsh=MW9pZXpkMWJtd3p1dw instagram.com/p/C2ISOaUId4l/?igsh=aGxodTV3OTBlZG1i
Hi, Jake. Though it is surely not necessary, I find it quite helpful.I do not want any paint on the sticker with the plus-sign, because I need that to align the origin. I do not want any paint on the lower part of the glass, because that would soil the chuck. But I do want an even and thin coating without any gaps where the laser will work. The masking helps me concentrate on that area. Also, I do not use any binder with the TiO2 pigments. So, whenever I touch the white coating, I get pigments on my fingers resulting in white fingerprints everywhere. ;-) That's why I like to have a clearly delineated area, so I know where I can or cannot touch the glass.
Very inspiring video. Thank you very much. I want definitely try such engraving on my Snapmaker. What is the cork that holds the glass from the front made of? Did you print it with TPU? Also titanium dioxide has been categorized in EU as a carcinogen, so what checked alternative can you suggest?
Hey, thank you for pointing out that TiO2 is (at least) questionable. After your comment, I did some research and as far as I get it, the substance is prohibited in food and pharmaceuticals, but not in paints. But better safe than sorry, so please either use a mask and gloves when handling it or - as you suggested - replace it. Frankly, I haven't checked any alternative substances myself, but there is a very intersting acticle on the Snapmaker support forum: support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/9589024708759-Laser-on-Ceramics-How-to-Make-It-Not-Only-Black-on-White. That one is about ceramic tiles, but as most ceramic tiles have a glass surface, it should also apply to pure glass. Please let me know, if you find a suitable replacement and I will mention it in the video description. The "cork" is printed on the Snapmaker with regular PLA. It is not just conic, but has steps in it, like a step drill. So you just have to try a bit until the best diameter snaps it. It does not have to be perfect, some tolerances are okay.
You can buy titanium dioxide, no problem at all, it is used in most white paints as the main pigment, the carcinogen thing I never read of, you just have to handle it with a mask, so no to inhale it... but you can even eat it, there is titanium dioxide with food grade.
Merci pour cette intéressante vidéo, je me suis abonné. Je n'ai pas encore essayé de gravure bicolore, le résultat est très joli : bravo. Comment effectuez vous le centrage des 2 couches, avec en plus le rotatif et quel mode d'origine (je n'ai pas encore utilisé la work origine) ? (vous utilisez Luban ? Lightburn ?) Si j'ai bien vu, le petit adhésif blanc apparemment avec un point devrait être un repère astucieux ? votre point de départ ou autre ? Comment l'uilisez-vous ? Une position correspondante marquée sur chacune des 2 "couches" ? Merci encore. Patrick
Hi Patrick, thank you for your comment. I use Luban as a software. Centering the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration.
I don't have any experience with emerald paint on glass, but I think the method shown in this video will give a stronger result. In particular, the white frosty effect is not paint applied to the surface, but the result of small cracks in the structure of the glass. The black paint is only there to absorb the energy of the diode laser, otherwise the beam would go straight through. If you use a CO2 laser, I don't think you need the black coating at all because the longer wavelength is well absorbed by the glass. The stickiness of the black effect, on the other hand, depends on a perfectly thin layer of titanium dioxide. I am not a chemist and cannot explain exactly what happens here, but I imagine that the heated TiO2 changes its structure and thus its reflectivity (is it calcination?) and that it "melts" onto the glass surface. TiO2 is also very hard and durable. I claim the result is at least dishwasher-proof. Heating the pigments to the melting point should also be possible with a CO2 laser, perhaps even better than with a diode laser.
Ich habe gute Erfahrungen mit folgendem Ansatz gemacht: Man fülle ein Mischgefäß mit TiO2-Pulver bis zu einer beliebigen Marke und übergieße es mit destilliertem Wasser bis zu eben dieser Marke. Und dann sehr gut schütteln.
It is definitely dishwasher-safe. The white layer actially is no color at all, but a result of a "destroyed", blunt glass surface, so no way that this will go away by washing. The black layer is titanium dioxide somehow "melted" to the glass surface, so very hard and very sticky. Important: always start with the titanium dioxide layer, so that it will find a smooth glass surface to which it can stick.
Hi Eddie, thank you for your comment. Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
@@harvey7113 I understood what you did but, because of the 2-step process that you did, it would have been a good idea to at least do a basic explanation of your process. But I really like your idea and will give it a try. Do you have any clogging issues using TiO2 in your airbrush?
„ms“ stands for „milliseconds“. For laser engraving I prefer „dot filled“ mode and there you do not specify a work speed in mm/min but rather a dwell time in ms. That is the time, the laser is on while the head stands still over one point. Does this make sense to you? BTW: the wording is from Snapmaker Luban. I don‘t know if Lightburn uses differend terms.
Hello! I found your video really interesting! I encorange you to keep posting your ideas! Just a quick question. Could it work with the default 1.6W laser module? Since I saw that your specify that you use the 10W laser, and I don't have that one... Could still work? Or it is not powerfull enough for "melting" the titanium dioxide? Thanks for sharing!
Your 1600mW laser is absolutely sufficient for this task, but I cannot provide you the perfect settings. Maybe, you can get them from this video by Ronin: ua-cam.com/video/WbsvfD-_YLw/v-deo.html. His video is very similar to mine and he used a 1600mW laser. From my experience you can use the same settings for both layers and if in doubt, better use a higher setting. You cannot overburn it.
Hi. Great video. I d like to try. Regarding titanium dioxide, it may be toxic in nanoparticules form not micro. Laws here allows use in cosmetics and food if microparticules.
I heard that they fed so much titanium dioxide to laboratory mice that in real life a person would have to eat it with spoons to get the laboratory effect.
Hi. What laser do you have in mind? I am pretty confident, that this method will work with any diode laser. Depending on the power you would have to go faster or slower. If in doubt, go slower - you cannot "overburn" it. If you have a CO2 laser in mind, then I must say I do not have any experience on that, but I guess this method should also work as is, as long as you use proper settings. But with a CO2 laser, I guess you would not need the black (Gouache) coating, because this kind of laser can engrave glass directly because of the much longer wavelength. If you are speaking about machines, any laser machine with a rotary module should suffice. Of course you would need a software supporting the rotary. There are also some machines/softwares out there that are not limited to cylindric glasses.
Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
Amazing!! Do you think different glass compositions will react differently? And I only have the 1600mW version, would it be enough if I use 100% or should I also have a longer time per spot?
Thanks. I do not know about different glass compositions. I think, any regular drinking glass should work fine. I would worry more about the shape. Though Snapmaker hardware with rotary module is 4D, the Luban software only supports kind of 2D, so the glass has to be a perfect cylinder. Your 1600mW laser is absolutely sufficient for this task, but I cannot provide you the perfect settings. Maybe, you can get them from this video by Ronin: ua-cam.com/video/WbsvfD-_YLw/v-deo.html. His video is very similar to mine and he used a 1600mW laser. From my experience you can use the same settings for both layers and if in doubt, better use a higher setting. You cannot overburn it.
Then enjoy. Fun fact: I've spent some money and bought royalty-free, high-quality soundtracks for my videos, even though I don't make any money from them.
Thank you for this video. I received my artisan over a week ago and became intimated after building it, afraid of messing something up, that I haven’t used it yet. I think today is the day!
Good luck and let me know, if you were successful. :-) My tipp: when doing something with your Snapmaker for the very first time, always do a bounding box run and have one hand on the ergency stop button. I own the Snapmaker 2.0 which does not come with a stop button by default and I had to learn some lessons the hard way. ;-)
@@harvey7113 My shipment is completely different from every unboxing of the artisan that Ive seen. it came in 5 different boxes by two different shippers (UPS and FED EX) my enclosure only opens in the front, making it difficult to access anything at all. Most of the instructions are for other machines, so I had to jump around in different videos to put it all together, and most confusing, I have an extra stop button.
@@harvey7113
Excellent.
Thanks for sharing.
That's actually really clever and I'm going to order some TO2 now lol. Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Thank you for recommending non-toxic materials unlike other UA-camrs. One suggestion, you are missing out on affiliate links to the materials you used. You missed the opportunity to link to the drinkware, the black paint, the titanium dioxide powder, and even the airbrush that can handle chalky, perhaps clumpy sprays like the titanium dioxide mix.
What an excellent idea!! What about adjusting position to get it registered? Has it some trick, like that point I see on a tape at the top of the glass? how can you control you don't move the rotary tool when positioning the glass, what do you align it with? Do you engrave the white engraving on top of the back engraving or in your artwork you leave that out of the second engraving?
Hey Fancylooks. The realignment question has been asked before, so just let me copy the answer from there:
Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
Hey Fancylooks, as you already imagined, the second (white) layer is just on top of the first (black) layer from a solid form. Lasering over the black areas does no harm.
The question has been asked before and I posted the screenshots on Instagram for illustration:
instagram.com/p/C2ISJQUotyV/?igsh=MW9pZXpkMWJtd3p1dw
instagram.com/p/C2ISOaUId4l/?igsh=aGxodTV3OTBlZG1i
@@harvey7113 I love the technique of the sticky washable tape with the cross, I have some very durable sticker paper that would do the trick for me. I will experiment with the print and cut aligment feature in lightburn, thank you for the idea and the explanation, really helpfull!
@@harvey7113 Oh, this is the type of info that really, really helps, you are very kind to explain your technique and post photos about how to prepare the artwork it!
Any updates or things you would change a year later? I asked to engrave some wedding mugs and the black/white would look amazing.
If I would make one or two glasses again, I wouldn‘t change much. But two things were a bit exhausting and I would probably optimize that for batch production: 1. Applying the coatings with the tiny air brush took really some time. I would try something different, like an „airless sprayer“. 2. Aligning the laser each time was tricky. Maybe align the laser once and attach a mechanical pointer to the rotary for alignment of just the rotation. Does that make sense?
@@harvey7113 Thanks for the reply. That is my question about how to keep things in registration. A mechanical pointer sounds like a good ideas a well. Would that be your "+" label? I'm using a snapmaker 2 10w as well.
@@danenderle154You would need both - a label on your glass and a corresponding marker (like a paper arrow) fixed on your rotary base. I you keep the x, y and z home coordinates and just adjust the rotary axis (b), a label with just a vertical line would suffice. Just make sure that the glass always sits flush in the chuck and the line from the sticker is at the same position as your marker on you rotary base. Good luck! Please let me know if you had success.
@@harvey7113 Thank you. I will try that. What speed/power settings did you use? (Edit: I see its .1 dot fill, 65% at 5ms)
Great video, just a quick question, as a quick google search did not come back with the answer. Does the paint need to be titanium oxide when using white paint to get the darker/black colour in the etching? I ask as I have been using basic tempera black paint for coating the glass, and then etching with it. The black paint i have been using gives me the white frosted looking, however I have not tried using a white tempera paint to see if it will yield a different result.
Hey Jordan, thank you for your comment and question.
Short answer: Yes, it has to be Titanium Dioxide.
Long answer: For the white frosting, the compound of the paint is rather irrelevant. It is just to absorb the blue laser beam and convert it to small spot of heat, which will result in microfractures in the smooth glass surface. The paint will vaporize completely and leave the injured, frosty glass surface. The darker the color is, the easier the beam can be absorbed. That is why I use black paint. But it should work with any color, even white, as long as it does not contain any TiO2. If you have a CO2 laser, you can event omit the paint for this phase. The CO2 laser emits infrared light, which will be absorbed by glass.
But if you use TiO2 particles or a paint with a high level of TiO2, the TiO2 particles will not vaporize but "melt" to the glass surface. At the same time, the particles suffer from the same microfractures (or similar transformation) as the glass, but here the particles become more absorbant and thus appear black.
Disclaimer: I am not a chemist, so maybe my explanation is not 100% correct.
Great Video! Question.. Where can I find the black rubber looking jig you used for adapting the glass to mount with the rotary tool, and what it that called? Thank You In Advance, Glenn from Colorado
I actually 3D printed this centring device myself. It's not rubber, it's hard plastic (PLA). You can't see it in the video, but the surface is not straight, it has steps in it. It's just stacked cylinders of 1mm height, each cylinder 1mm smaller in diameter than the one below. You have to fiddle with the jig a bit until the right diameter clicks in, and then the glass is perfectly aligned with the axis of rotation. I hope this makes sense.
@@harvey7113 Thanks for getting back to me on this.. I've been still learning and progressing with My Snapmaker Ray Laser, and finally ready to begin using the Rotary Tool Accessory and I wanted to say how much I appreciate your video..
Looks Like I'll be firing up the 3D Printer Next.. Cheers! -Glenn
I have an idea for your positioning. I haven’t used my rotary yet so not sure what parts “move” but on a non moving part of the rotary make a line, then on the “Plug” make a line, then on any item you need exact alignment, make a line (Like you did with the +) on a piece of tape and put it on the item in the middle of design area (Also like you did) now align all three lines. Each time you go back to that exact area just realign all three lines. You wouldn’t have to make a mark on the plug if the line on the machine itself was close enough to be able to accurately align, but I figured if you have a line closer to the cup it would be easier to align. If you’re bored, maybe try it. Where is the design for the plug? I finally got the “test” laser project completed and need to get back down there and do some more. I’m just learning and the whole “Settings” and using Luban confuses me. The test design (rulers) was a hassle and took a lot of time/frustration as it doesn’t tell you that it shows the design up in the right corner, not centered
for the second layer, was it just a full background that was lasered completely over the first image, or did it have blank areas to match the first layer? It would be helpful to see both images on the computer screen.
Hi Mark, the second layer is just a solid form. Burning over the contour of the first layer does no harm. I posted the screenshots on Instagram:
instagram.com/p/C2ISJQUotyV/?igsh=MW9pZXpkMWJtd3p1dw
instagram.com/p/C2ISOaUId4l/?igsh=aGxodTV3OTBlZG1i
Was is necessary to mask? Just make sure you cover the area. Overspray is not a problem.
Hi, Jake. Though it is surely not necessary, I find it quite helpful.I do not want any paint on the sticker with the plus-sign, because I need that to align the origin. I do not want any paint on the lower part of the glass, because that would soil the chuck. But I do want an even and thin coating without any gaps where the laser will work. The masking helps me concentrate on that area. Also, I do not use any binder with the TiO2 pigments. So, whenever I touch the white coating, I get pigments on my fingers resulting in white fingerprints everywhere. ;-) That's why I like to have a clearly delineated area, so I know where I can or cannot touch the glass.
Very inspiring video. Thank you very much. I want definitely try such engraving on my Snapmaker.
What is the cork that holds the glass from the front made of? Did you print it with TPU?
Also titanium dioxide has been categorized in EU as a carcinogen, so what checked alternative can you suggest?
Hey, thank you for pointing out that TiO2 is (at least) questionable. After your comment, I did some research and as far as I get it, the substance is prohibited in food and pharmaceuticals, but not in paints. But better safe than sorry, so please either use a mask and gloves when handling it or - as you suggested - replace it. Frankly, I haven't checked any alternative substances myself, but there is a very intersting acticle on the Snapmaker support forum: support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/9589024708759-Laser-on-Ceramics-How-to-Make-It-Not-Only-Black-on-White. That one is about ceramic tiles, but as most ceramic tiles have a glass surface, it should also apply to pure glass. Please let me know, if you find a suitable replacement and I will mention it in the video description.
The "cork" is printed on the Snapmaker with regular PLA. It is not just conic, but has steps in it, like a step drill. So you just have to try a bit until the best diameter snaps it. It does not have to be perfect, some tolerances are okay.
You can buy titanium dioxide, no problem at all, it is used in most white paints as the main pigment, the carcinogen thing I never read of, you just have to handle it with a mask, so no to inhale it... but you can even eat it, there is titanium dioxide with food grade.
Merci pour cette intéressante vidéo, je me suis abonné. Je n'ai pas encore essayé de gravure bicolore, le résultat est très joli : bravo.
Comment effectuez vous le centrage des 2 couches, avec en plus le rotatif et quel mode d'origine (je n'ai pas encore utilisé la work origine) ? (vous utilisez Luban ? Lightburn ?) Si j'ai bien vu, le petit adhésif blanc apparemment avec un point devrait être un repère astucieux ? votre point de départ ou autre ?
Comment l'uilisez-vous ? Une position correspondante marquée sur chacune des 2 "couches" ?
Merci encore. Patrick
Hi Patrick, thank you for your comment. I use Luban as a software. Centering the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration.
How well does this medium hold up compared to enamel paint? Has anyone tried this on a co2 laser?
I don't have any experience with emerald paint on glass, but I think the method shown in this video will give a stronger result. In particular, the white frosty effect is not paint applied to the surface, but the result of small cracks in the structure of the glass. The black paint is only there to absorb the energy of the diode laser, otherwise the beam would go straight through. If you use a CO2 laser, I don't think you need the black coating at all because the longer wavelength is well absorbed by the glass. The stickiness of the black effect, on the other hand, depends on a perfectly thin layer of titanium dioxide. I am not a chemist and cannot explain exactly what happens here, but I imagine that the heated TiO2 changes its structure and thus its reflectivity (is it calcination?) and that it "melts" onto the glass surface. TiO2 is also very hard and durable. I claim the result is at least dishwasher-proof. Heating the pigments to the melting point should also be possible with a CO2 laser, perhaps even better than with a diode laser.
Wie wäre grob das Mischverhältnis von dem Titandioxid zum dest.Wasser??
tolles Video...gerne mehr davon ;)
Ich habe gute Erfahrungen mit folgendem Ansatz gemacht: Man fülle ein Mischgefäß mit TiO2-Pulver bis zu einer beliebigen Marke und übergieße es mit destilliertem Wasser bis zu eben dieser Marke. Und dann sehr gut schütteln.
can you put this in a dishwasher without it coming off?
It is definitely dishwasher-safe. The white layer actially is no color at all, but a result of a "destroyed", blunt glass surface, so no way that this will go away by washing. The black layer is titanium dioxide somehow "melted" to the glass surface, so very hard and very sticky. Important: always start with the titanium dioxide layer, so that it will find a smooth glass surface to which it can stick.
@@harvey7113 Great work. A key point that you describe in this comment is that the "white" is actually just the etched glass. Results look good.
Great Video! What did you do to make sure the alignment of the second time would work with the previous one?
Hi Eddie, thank you for your comment. Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
@@harvey7113 I understood what you did but, because of the 2-step process that you did, it would have been a good idea to at least do a basic explanation of your process. But I really like your idea and will give it a try. Do you have any clogging issues using TiO2 in your airbrush?
In Lightburn it has MM/M you have MS for speed what is MS?
„ms“ stands for „milliseconds“. For laser engraving I prefer „dot filled“ mode and there you do not specify a work speed in mm/min but rather a dwell time in ms. That is the time, the laser is on while the head stands still over one point. Does this make sense to you? BTW: the wording is from Snapmaker Luban. I don‘t know if Lightburn uses differend terms.
Hello! I found your video really interesting! I encorange you to keep posting your ideas!
Just a quick question. Could it work with the default 1.6W laser module? Since I saw that your specify that you use the 10W laser, and I don't have that one... Could still work? Or it is not powerfull enough for "melting" the titanium dioxide?
Thanks for sharing!
Your 1600mW laser is absolutely sufficient for this task, but I cannot provide you the perfect settings. Maybe, you can get them from this video by Ronin: ua-cam.com/video/WbsvfD-_YLw/v-deo.html. His video is very similar to mine and he used a 1600mW laser. From my experience you can use the same settings for both layers and if in doubt, better use a higher setting. You cannot overburn it.
Hi. Great video. I d like to try.
Regarding titanium dioxide, it may be toxic in nanoparticules form not micro. Laws here allows use in cosmetics and food if microparticules.
Thanks you. And thanks for clarifying.
I heard that they fed so much titanium dioxide to laboratory mice that in real life a person would have to eat it with spoons to get the laboratory effect.
best works i have seen until now, keep the good work ;)
Hi, does this method also work with other lasers ?
Hi. What laser do you have in mind?
I am pretty confident, that this method will work with any diode laser. Depending on the power you would have to go faster or slower. If in doubt, go slower - you cannot "overburn" it. If you have a CO2 laser in mind, then I must say I do not have any experience on that, but I guess this method should also work as is, as long as you use proper settings. But with a CO2 laser, I guess you would not need the black (Gouache) coating, because this kind of laser can engrave glass directly because of the much longer wavelength.
If you are speaking about machines, any laser machine with a rotary module should suffice. Of course you would need a software supporting the rotary. There are also some machines/softwares out there that are not limited to cylindric glasses.
How did you settings the position? Very accurate...
Realigning the object is a little bit tricky. That's why it isn't on the video. My apologies. I use a label printer to print out a simple plus-sign and stick it on the outside top of the glass, as you can see in the video. Before starting the engraving, I switch on the laser and position it to the center of the plus sign. Tracking the laser with a camera is difficult due to overexposure. So I put on the laser safety goggles, open the enclosure and adjust the y and b axis manually using the controller until the laser dot is exactly in the middle of cross. Using a flashlight is helpful, because the safety goggles are quite dark. The position is perfect when the laser dot disappears or becomes very dark - that's when it hits the center of the cross. Then I set the work origin for y and b axis. I can't recall the exact order, but it is crucial not to interfere with the z axis calibration. Of course, you have to do this for both layers. The sticker is very sticky and water resistent, so it will stay until the very end.
Great work, thanks for the video!
Amazing!! Do you think different glass compositions will react differently?
And I only have the 1600mW version, would it be enough if I use 100% or should I also have a longer time per spot?
Thanks. I do not know about different glass compositions. I think, any regular drinking glass should work fine. I would worry more about the shape. Though Snapmaker hardware with rotary module is 4D, the Luban software only supports kind of 2D, so the glass has to be a perfect cylinder. Your 1600mW laser is absolutely sufficient for this task, but I cannot provide you the perfect settings. Maybe, you can get them from this video by Ronin: ua-cam.com/video/WbsvfD-_YLw/v-deo.html. His video is very similar to mine and he used a 1600mW laser. From my experience you can use the same settings for both layers and if in doubt, better use a higher setting. You cannot overburn it.
Very nice
Schönes Video👍
Danke! :-)
Im just here to jam out to the killer tunes 🎶
Then enjoy. Fun fact: I've spent some money and bought royalty-free, high-quality soundtracks for my videos, even though I don't make any money from them.