@@GilesBathgateI did, he did eventually turn them sideways to increase strength, but that wasn’t my question. All of the vertical prints could have been flip to save on all of the filament used to support the head
@@brandonrippeonphoto I think he answered the question though he said "I was a fool for printing it up like that". The thing is its not always obvious which is the best way to print something until after the fact, and maybe if you are making a video for youtube, you don't want re-print and film again just so you don't look foolish? I think its good to show mistakes and then point them out so others can learn from it.
@@brandonrippeonphoto Yes inverted vertically doesn't make any sense either. You want to lay it flat like so that viewed from directly above it looks like the letter T and so that the leftmost and rightmost tips of the T are flat on the bed. Having like ----| when viewed from the front is no good nor is ⊥
I've done some pause and add sand prints in the past and the first time I did the exact same thing you did. However, I found that just moving the head far enough away from the print works fine while filling, and then topping up the sand with some glue to harden the top layer so it won't blow away when the print head starts moving over it again. I've also created a jig for the 32mm cabinetmaking standard, to drill holes for the shelves. I bought metal cylinders to place in the print so that the drill bit won't wear out the plastic. So far so good. Your channel is very inspiring, keep up the great work!
The engine in my car requires a specialized tool to remove the injectors (N54 engine in a BMW). Instead of paying $70 for the tool, I just designed and 3d printed a tool that did the trick for me :)
That’s rad! I found a file for blasting intake valves for my car (direct injection), but I haven’t tried it yet. It’s one of those files that’s pretty simple, but makes the job so much easier. More importantly for me, having a little job task for the bigger task makes me more excited for both tasks.. Don’t worry, I know I’m brain broken.
I am ok with people selling their designs but it frustrates me that it somehow breaks the open source nature of the 3D printing world. For example ALCH made an organization system and sold it and I even bought a few of his files. Nevertheless, after gridfinity was released I instantly switched because then I could freely share my adaptions and many other people designed things I am able to use. Furthermore, If i see a thing that is for sale but doesn't fit my use case and I redesign It I do not publish it because I feel bad for the original designer.
You produce some of my favorite content. I’m not a woodworker, but I very much appreciate the skills of those who are. I’m not a CAD designer, but again, I do respect those who are capable. I am not a 3D printer, but I do have a machine that produces some rather excellent spaghetti. If you keep posting, I will keep watching.
I print loads of free stuff, but I’m also happy to pay for really good designs that people have invested their time in, that’s fair enough. I bought a few of your files a few weeks back & will get to printing them soon!
@@TheSwedishMaker Just curious why you would remove the link to the german site I posted for people looking for quality magnets? Easily the best & most reliable option for people in EU.
@@Vandel212 yeah, I watched the whole video, but he could save some filament. I would've print the head and the handle separate, and fill only the head with sand and design the handle as the plug
For the mallets: design solid bodies, print with 5% Gyroid infill (wall thickness maybe 4 to 6 loops) and after printing, drill one hole and fill with epoxy casting resin (not laminating resin, that gets too hot when curing). The result is an overall strengthening and weight gain on the print. --> Saves both on filament cost and increases stability. You can also fill in only some resin, let it move around within the 3d print and thus "coat" the infill and walls.
Just print with more walls and the strength goes up dramatically. For ASA, CF and HT enforced filaments, 5 to 8 walls works wonders. Do use glue stick on the bed to counter warping
calling a filament having industrial grade precision is the biggest lie ever, the precision comes from the device from how it was calibrated and setup ... you can print the highest quality plastics, but if your printer will limit the amount of precision you get
You could also lower the infill and then pour epoxy in them. The epoxy will help add strength through the layer lines and if you mix some metal in with it it can add weight too. Just don't use quick epoxy let it take 24 hours so it flows well and if you have a vacuum chamber pull a vacuum (just make sure you don't have airpockets that the epoxy can't reach).
This is a perfect showcase of what 3D printing can be perfect for, and what you would literally be better off just holding a rock in your palm. I printed a desiccant container in an hour and a half yesterday, and it still boggles my mind how simple it is to just create a real useable thing in meatspace with a couple clicks. Just don’t make hammers and wrenches. Wrenches essentially couldn’t even exist until humanity mastered metalworking lol
On the rare occasion I design something worth sharing, I always share the design files and a STEP file version, along with 3MF or STL files. I hate it when I have to make a small change to something and all I have is an STL. It can be very hard to make a small change to an STL, but when you have the STEP or the actual design files, it can be so much easier.
I've had a 3d printer for about 5 years now and I do use mine a good bit, but it really has limited piratical uses. For tools I find it best for the weird tools that I'll only need very seldom.
I ❤ the slow pace and calmness of the video, it's why i keep coming on you channel. In these days all want to feed you in 1 min the history of the earth. Also all the personal insights and struggles without trying to mask it makes me appreciate it even more. Thank you and I wish to you and your family Happy Holidays!
A thought, as a fellow smith and 3D printing enthusiast, designing a model with a pause in the Gcode where we insert copper blanks as hammer faces may work.
Great video as always. I finally got a new laptop so I now can order your sandpaper holders and the couple of other items you sell from your website that I can 3D print. I’ve been wanting about a year to do this so Thanks for sharing your ideas. And sharing the other 3D printing ideas you share on makers world, and the other 3-D platforms.
I guess my take on the mallet would be printed flat and hollow in hard TPU, like 98A and then fill it with fine concrete. Make the head a bit more hollow than the shaft or the head a little bigger.
I'm always happy to see people share their designs for free, but if they charge for them, I totally understand and am happy to pay (if it's a reasonable price). Bills don't pay themselves after all.
Nice! Thank you for sharing, and I agree. If someone wants to be paid for their designs, they should charge for them. That should never interfere with those who just want to share.
You also need to be very carefull about moisture with CF-Filaments that usually are not counted as water sensitive filaments like ABS, ASA and PLA. In between the fine carbon fibres/dust the moisture is absorbed super fast. My ASA-CF foams up like crazy after a few hours not being sealed in the dryer box. It is not humid in my office but the speed of absorption reminded me of nylon. Also i think MirageC has made a video about this which confirms my assumption i think.
Yeahbi would just printthe mallet lying down. Ive even printed threads lying down and sure its not so perfect in appearance but still works fine, which is what we want from a tool. I've printed a bunch if stuff for woodworking, but stuff does break so my advice is unless you need it asap, print some copies
Everything is a malet if you are brave enough. Please just make one from some wood scraps. The issue with some magnets is that the cheap are often undersized, so I prefer to insert them from the side(without pause). A printer can handle bridges, instead of inserting a pause at the right time/layer height. Harden nozel is for were resistance not for clogging prevention. Fibre filaments do not need special drying, it’s the nylon which needs drying. The water in the filament expends in the hotend and courses oozing and uneven extrusion. Paying for a model is easier if a good optimised model, if I can model something faster in CAD then I model it myself, but when your see that it will cost you 10 iterations to match it than maybe buying the model it the better idea.
Print the mallet on its side, the long side of the head horizontally. This way the layer lines give most support to the forces that will impact it during use. Set infill to 0% and set the wall count to 9999, this is strongest.
Hej Pierre, I made the same mistake with the same thought of adding sand to a charging stand for my smartwatch. Bird sand (the stuff you put in bird cages) blew all over my 3D printer (without enclosure) 🤣 if only your video would have been earlier...
I don't understand why printing them vertically was ever even considered? Plus filling the whole thing with sand isn't ideal either, fill just the head to increase both how easy it is to swing and its effectiveness,
5:15 I am so tired of hearing about this, you don´t HAVE to dry it before use, they are dried when you get them, but because of a lot of idiots now print, they get a lot of complaints because customers don´t handle the filament correctly, it sucks in water, and now won´t print nice anymore!! so now a lot of filament manufactures write it as standard. a "wet" spool won´t cause blockage it will cause it to look under extruded like it is a sponge you are printing... start printing ans see if you have problems!! if you have problems then you can dry it!! if its a new spool i have never experienced problems with wet filament, and i have been printing for over 15 years now.
I have once bought a 3D Model for an Echo Pop wall holder. It was really massive (about 200g of Filament) and didn't even fit the Echo, such a waste of Filament 😅 Since then i never bought any Model. For the Echo i made my own slim wall holder and uploaded it for free 😅
To be fair that’s kind of the whole point of the video, 3D printing & woodworking going hand in hand, and are the prints strong enough to print tools yet.
Of course. But its for the sake of trying it out. A 3d printer doesnt require your hands. You could do one mallet on the 3d printer and do other stuff at the same time.
intellectual property does not exist in the world i want to live in. it is easy to explain why it is necessary in our current paradigm, but information can be duplicated endlessly with essentially no labor required. preventing the sharing of information is worse than rent seeking -- it is actively getting in the way of free abundance. again, i understand the externalities that lead people to charge for their designs, but it must be acknowledged that it creates artificial scarcity. so to me, the choice to charge for designs must not be taken lightly, and for anyone in a stable, healthy situation to do it is shameful in my opinion.
There are 17 other dudes on the internet that sell the magnetic hose thing and there are 17 other free 3D models. If you want to make anything actually worth buying in this space you need to make parametric 3D models. And the fact that you printed a mallet standing up and brought sand into a printer absolutely dismisses everything you said, probably ever about 3D printing.
I fully agree with the parametric thing. I think there’s something that bothers me about people selling designs that aren’t THAT difficult to create, especially considering the origins of at home printing. Without the countless hours of work from hundreds or thousands of volunteers in the reprap movement, we wouldn’t have Bambu today! So I think that’s my issue with the commercialization of low effort models. It seems like you’ve been around for longer than a lot of the newer makers buying Bambu, and I understand the frustration with those who want a tool, and don’t seem to want to deep dive on the tech like we used to have to! Voron might be a little pretentious in some circles, but those are some crazy smart people! It feels like that badge of honor that came with a well-tuned printer is becoming less valued overall now that perfect prints can just be bought and not made. I feel like an old man shaking my fist at the kids these days sometimes when I read all of the hype around Bambu especially. We used to have to print upside down, in the snow, both ways, ya know? But uh. Disregarding someone for their lack of experience in printing isn’t the vibe. Steel shot or even just rocks would’ve been a better option for adding weight (I use 4.5mm BBs! $15 for a huge jar!), but sand is a more obvious choice, and I appreciate people sharing their experience regardless. Plus the strength of the layer lines was acknowledged in the video, so I don’t think he needs to be disregarded entirely. Idk, you’re not wrong to criticize bad decisions, but I’d like to see a more welcoming community that can learn from each others’ mistakes without value judgements being placed on each other.
He probably got the idea from a dead blow (a mallet filled with sand for finish carpentry and flooring). Obviously fine grade sand in a machine is a bad move, especially in retrospect. If you've been in the trades long enough, you'll make plenty of boneheaded mistakes that make you cringe. This guy is fairly new to the whole makerspace compared to others, but it's refreshing to see someone admit their mistakes. He could have easily edited out the entire part of pouring sand in his machine (something I wouldn't even do near my machine, because it has machined parts that move, and small particles cause problems in moving parts). The Master has failed more times than the apprentice has even begun. Let the apprentice begin.
@@nathanblanchard8897 Lack of experience is never an issue in itself. Making reviews of 3D printers while being an absolute noob has a few issues, conceptually.
Curious why you’re printing them head up and not head down. wasting a lot of material for support
Perhaps you should have watched till the end.
@@GilesBathgateI did, he did eventually turn them sideways to increase strength, but that wasn’t my question. All of the vertical prints could have been flip to save on all of the filament used to support the head
@@brandonrippeonphoto I think he answered the question though he said "I was a fool for printing it up like that". The thing is its not always obvious which is the best way to print something until after the fact, and maybe if you are making a video for youtube, you don't want re-print and film again just so you don't look foolish? I think its good to show mistakes and then point them out so others can learn from it.
@ he was talking vertically vs horizontal not inverted but ok
@@brandonrippeonphoto Yes inverted vertically doesn't make any sense either. You want to lay it flat like so that viewed from directly above it looks like the letter T and so that the leftmost and rightmost tips of the T are flat on the bed. Having like ----| when viewed from the front is no good nor is ⊥
I've done some pause and add sand prints in the past and the first time I did the exact same thing you did. However, I found that just moving the head far enough away from the print works fine while filling, and then topping up the sand with some glue to harden the top layer so it won't blow away when the print head starts moving over it again.
I've also created a jig for the 32mm cabinetmaking standard, to drill holes for the shelves. I bought metal cylinders to place in the print so that the drill bit won't wear out the plastic. So far so good.
Your channel is very inspiring, keep up the great work!
The engine in my car requires a specialized tool to remove the injectors (N54 engine in a BMW). Instead of paying $70 for the tool, I just designed and 3d printed a tool that did the trick for me :)
That’s rad! I found a file for blasting intake valves for my car (direct injection), but I haven’t tried it yet. It’s one of those files that’s pretty simple, but makes the job so much easier. More importantly for me, having a little job task for the bigger task makes me more excited for both tasks..
Don’t worry, I know I’m brain broken.
I am ok with people selling their designs but it frustrates me that it somehow breaks the open source nature of the 3D printing world. For example ALCH made an organization system and sold it and I even bought a few of his files. Nevertheless, after gridfinity was released I instantly switched because then I could freely share my adaptions and many other people designed things I am able to use. Furthermore, If i see a thing that is for sale but doesn't fit my use case and I redesign It I do not publish it because I feel bad for the original designer.
Please share where you get your magnets
Yes please!
Bought them through Alibaba - szbuytoo.en.alibaba.com/
Tungsten beads or power if you need a lot of weight. It’s more dense than Lead and not toxic.
You produce some of my favorite content. I’m not a woodworker, but I very much appreciate the skills of those who are. I’m not a CAD designer, but again, I do respect those who are capable. I am not a 3D printer, but I do have a machine that produces some rather excellent spaghetti. If you keep posting, I will keep watching.
I print loads of free stuff, but I’m also happy to pay for really good designs that people have invested their time in, that’s fair enough. I bought a few of your files a few weeks back & will get to printing them soon!
Vart köper du magneter?
Vill också veta
szbuytoo.en.alibaba.com/ köpte 1000st så jag köpte direkt från Alibaba
@@TheSwedishMaker Just curious why you would remove the link to the german site I posted for people looking for quality magnets? Easily the best & most reliable option for people in EU.
Where 3D printing really shines is printing jigs and templates that are customized to your project.
High quality video as usual. As a noob in 3d printing, I love your honest trial and error part. Learning by doing is a good philosophy.
why printing the mallet standing? you couldve printed upside down without supports haha
Exactly! Or even on the side to make it stronger due to the layer lines orientation.
At the end of the video he has a much more optimized mallet, that solves all of those issues.
@@Vandel212 yeah, I watched the whole video, but he could save some filament.
I would've print the head and the handle separate, and fill only the head with sand and design the handle as the plug
@@FelipeAgua11 That's what we like to call in the biz, moving the goalpost. I do like your idea though.
For the mallets: design solid bodies, print with 5% Gyroid infill (wall thickness maybe 4 to 6 loops) and after printing, drill one hole and fill with epoxy casting resin (not laminating resin, that gets too hot when curing). The result is an overall strengthening and weight gain on the print. --> Saves both on filament cost and increases stability.
You can also fill in only some resin, let it move around within the 3d print and thus "coat" the infill and walls.
Try doing the mallet with 100% infill. And maybe make it a little bigger for some more heft.
Just print with more walls and the strength goes up dramatically. For ASA, CF and HT enforced filaments, 5 to 8 walls works wonders. Do use glue stick on the bed to counter warping
calling a filament having industrial grade precision is the biggest lie ever, the precision comes from the device from how it was calibrated and setup ... you can print the highest quality plastics, but if your printer will limit the amount of precision you get
You could also lower the infill and then pour epoxy in them. The epoxy will help add strength through the layer lines and if you mix some metal in with it it can add weight too. Just don't use quick epoxy let it take 24 hours so it flows well and if you have a vacuum chamber pull a vacuum (just make sure you don't have airpockets that the epoxy can't reach).
This is a perfect showcase of what 3D printing can be perfect for, and what you would literally be better off just holding a rock in your palm. I printed a desiccant container in an hour and a half yesterday, and it still boggles my mind how simple it is to just create a real useable thing in meatspace with a couple clicks.
Just don’t make hammers and wrenches. Wrenches essentially couldn’t even exist until humanity mastered metalworking lol
On the rare occasion I design something worth sharing, I always share the design files and a STEP file version, along with 3MF or STL files. I hate it when I have to make a small change to something and all I have is an STL. It can be very hard to make a small change to an STL, but when you have the STEP or the actual design files, it can be so much easier.
I've had a 3d printer for about 5 years now and I do use mine a good bit, but it really has limited piratical uses. For tools I find it best for the weird tools that I'll only need very seldom.
Surely printing the mallet head down would save materials and installing the sand would be less of an issue!
Thats what I did with the last one, except the sand
I ❤ the slow pace and calmness of the video, it's why i keep coming on you channel. In these days all want to feed you in 1 min the history of the earth. Also all the personal insights and struggles without trying to mask it makes me appreciate it even more. Thank you and I wish to you and your family Happy Holidays!
Thank you! Happy holiday
A thought, as a fellow smith and 3D printing enthusiast, designing a model with a pause in the Gcode where we insert copper blanks as hammer faces may work.
Great video as always. I finally got a new laptop so I now can order your sandpaper holders and the couple of other items you sell from your website that I can 3D print. I’ve been wanting about a year to do this so Thanks for sharing your ideas. And sharing the other 3D printing ideas you share on makers world, and the other 3-D platforms.
I guess my take on the mallet would be printed flat and hollow in hard TPU, like 98A and then fill it with fine concrete. Make the head a bit more hollow than the shaft or the head a little bigger.
17:00 Print it in tpu that is the toughest filament. and you can get some that is not that soft. 🙂
Yeah, even the standard 95A TPU. If you print it fully solid, it will both have the weight and be fairly hard. Literally perfect for mallet heads!
Thanks for sharing...I am glad that I am not the only one creating videos exploring 3D printing and woodworking cheers.
I'm always happy to see people share their designs for free, but if they charge for them, I totally understand and am happy to pay (if it's a reasonable price). Bills don't pay themselves after all.
Nice! Thank you for sharing, and I agree. If someone wants to be paid for their designs, they should charge for them. That should never interfere with those who just want to share.
You have to replace the extruder with a hardened one too!!!!
He did that at 2:20ish
I mean... you could also print at angle, like 45 degrees and have optimal orientation, if you design for it and avoid supports all along. :)
It’s almost like the site he downloaded the STL from sells filament!
For you mallet, you could use 100% infill modifier for heavy part. No need to add sand.
Nowhere near as heavy.
Have you though of annealing the plastic maybe it could help with the rigidity.
You also need to be very carefull about moisture with CF-Filaments that usually are not counted as water sensitive filaments like ABS, ASA and PLA. In between the fine carbon fibres/dust the moisture is absorbed super fast. My ASA-CF foams up like crazy after a few hours not being sealed in the dryer box. It is not humid in my office but the speed of absorption reminded me of nylon.
Also i think MirageC has made a video about this which confirms my assumption i think.
You print CF in the office? I hope you have some good air filtration then.
Problem with sharing and caring is the platforms that host these files. They do not fight for their users when obvious copyrights have been violated.
I have found that lead shot works pretty well to add weight.
the sheet carrier goes on top! one handed carry! the rotational action grips it onto the sheet. at least that's how that design is meant to work.
Yeahbi would just printthe mallet lying down. Ive even printed threads lying down and sure its not so perfect in appearance but still works fine, which is what we want from a tool.
I've printed a bunch if stuff for woodworking, but stuff does break so my advice is unless you need it asap, print some copies
Add some tpu for ams to cover the entirety of the outside of the head. The 68D might be tough enough to still function as a hammer?
Can you share where you get your magnets from. Ive bought some from Amazon recently and they seem rather weak. TIA
szbuytoo.en.alibaba.com/ bought mine here
Everything is a malet if you are brave enough. Please just make one from some wood scraps.
The issue with some magnets is that the cheap are often undersized, so I prefer to insert them from the side(without pause). A printer can handle bridges, instead of inserting a pause at the right time/layer height.
Harden nozel is for were resistance not for clogging prevention.
Fibre filaments do not need special drying, it’s the nylon which needs drying. The water in the filament expends in the hotend and courses oozing and uneven extrusion.
Paying for a model is easier if a good optimised model, if I can model something faster in CAD then I model it myself, but when your see that it will cost you 10 iterations to match it than maybe buying the model it the better idea.
I agree designers should be compensated for their work.
What knife is that? It's pretty
Print the mallet on its side, the long side of the head horizontally. This way the layer lines give most support to the forces that will impact it during use. Set infill to 0% and set the wall count to 9999, this is strongest.
You should fill the hammers with ball bearings. They are cheap and heavy.
Hej Pierre, I made the same mistake with the same thought of adding sand to a charging stand for my smartwatch. Bird sand (the stuff you put in bird cages) blew all over my 3D printer (without enclosure) 🤣 if only your video would have been earlier...
Great! The new episode of good mythical morning. No wait. This Rhett is useful, excellent.
Man i just wish I had a 3d printer 😂
I would really enjoy designing and 3D printing ifI didn't have major concerns on plastic pollution.
I don't understand why printing them vertically was ever even considered? Plus filling the whole thing with sand isn't ideal either, fill just the head to increase both how easy it is to swing and its effectiveness,
You put your hardened steel nozzle on but how about your hardened steel extruder?
They go hand in hand nämligen
Yes, but it works ok without it unless your going to print a lot of abrasive materials
@@TheSwedishMakerI see, thanks! I also have a P1S with hardened nozzle and no hardened extruder (yet)
0:29, "is the future here?" No, it is already the past. I have been 3d-printing tools since 2015. But hey, welcome to the future 🙂
Feature length ad with an included sponsor ad?
Fill it with concrete it will give it weight and rigidity
5:15 I am so tired of hearing about this, you don´t HAVE to dry it before use, they are dried when you get them, but because of a lot of idiots now print, they get a lot of complaints because customers don´t handle the filament correctly, it sucks in water, and now won´t print nice anymore!! so now a lot of filament manufactures write it as standard. a "wet" spool won´t cause blockage it will cause it to look under extruded like it is a sponge you are printing... start printing ans see if you have problems!! if you have problems then you can dry it!! if its a new spool i have never experienced problems with wet filament, and i have been printing for over 15 years now.
The mallet should have been printed laying flat on the build plate !!!!
Thats what I did in the end of the video
I have once bought a 3D Model for an Echo Pop wall holder.
It was really massive (about 200g of Filament) and didn't even fit the Echo, such a waste of Filament 😅
Since then i never bought any Model.
For the Echo i made my own slim wall holder and uploaded it for free 😅
yess he uploaded i love your videos
Well, how about you tell us where you bought those magnets? 😄
Why not to make stuff from PC/ABS? Some of the Nokia legends were made of that compound.
Learn what is the KISS system means.
You could make a wooden mallet in half the time. Plus you wouldnt be adding anymore plastic to the enviroment
Of course you can 3D print tools - they just wont last very long or be able to be used and abused like metal tools.
I always like printing funels. I always misplace mine.
Du började med cr10 som jag :)
You call yourself a woodworker, why would 3D print a mallet when you could make a wooden one?
To be fair that’s kind of the whole point of the video, 3D printing & woodworking going hand in hand, and are the prints strong enough to print tools yet.
@jmwoodcraft7842 sure but making it from wood would be faster than printing.
Of course. But its for the sake of trying it out. A 3d printer doesnt require your hands. You could do one mallet on the 3d printer and do other stuff at the same time.
intellectual property does not exist in the world i want to live in. it is easy to explain why it is necessary in our current paradigm, but information can be duplicated endlessly with essentially no labor required. preventing the sharing of information is worse than rent seeking -- it is actively getting in the way of free abundance.
again, i understand the externalities that lead people to charge for their designs, but it must be acknowledged that it creates artificial scarcity. so to me, the choice to charge for designs must not be taken lightly, and for anyone in a stable, healthy situation to do it is shameful in my opinion.
There are 17 other dudes on the internet that sell the magnetic hose thing and there are 17 other free 3D models. If you want to make anything actually worth buying in this space you need to make parametric 3D models. And the fact that you printed a mallet standing up and brought sand into a printer absolutely dismisses everything you said, probably ever about 3D printing.
I fully agree with the parametric thing. I think there’s something that bothers me about people selling designs that aren’t THAT difficult to create, especially considering the origins of at home printing. Without the countless hours of work from hundreds or thousands of volunteers in the reprap movement, we wouldn’t have Bambu today! So I think that’s my issue with the commercialization of low effort models.
It seems like you’ve been around for longer than a lot of the newer makers buying Bambu, and I understand the frustration with those who want a tool, and don’t seem to want to deep dive on the tech like we used to have to! Voron might be a little pretentious in some circles, but those are some crazy smart people! It feels like that badge of honor that came with a well-tuned printer is becoming less valued overall now that perfect prints can just be bought and not made. I feel like an old man shaking my fist at the kids these days sometimes when I read all of the hype around Bambu especially. We used to have to print upside down, in the snow, both ways, ya know?
But uh. Disregarding someone for their lack of experience in printing isn’t the vibe. Steel shot or even just rocks would’ve been a better option for adding weight (I use 4.5mm BBs! $15 for a huge jar!), but sand is a more obvious choice, and I appreciate people sharing their experience regardless. Plus the strength of the layer lines was acknowledged in the video, so I don’t think he needs to be disregarded entirely.
Idk, you’re not wrong to criticize bad decisions, but I’d like to see a more welcoming community that can learn from each others’ mistakes without value judgements being placed on each other.
He probably got the idea from a dead blow (a mallet filled with sand for finish carpentry and flooring).
Obviously fine grade sand in a machine is a bad move, especially in retrospect. If you've been in the trades long enough, you'll make plenty of boneheaded mistakes that make you cringe.
This guy is fairly new to the whole makerspace compared to others, but it's refreshing to see someone admit their mistakes. He could have easily edited out the entire part of pouring sand in his machine (something I wouldn't even do near my machine, because it has machined parts that move, and small particles cause problems in moving parts).
The Master has failed more times than the apprentice has even begun. Let the apprentice begin.
@@nathanblanchard8897 Lack of experience is never an issue in itself. Making reviews of 3D printers while being an absolute noob has a few issues, conceptually.