@@vrm86gt weigh your hydro roller lifter and pushrod, weigh your solid roller lifter and pushrod. If you are lighter you can leave the spring pressure the same(assuming your hydro setup had good valve train control). You can also run a little more spring pressure if you want some more rpm ability past peak hp. Keep in mind you need to be right on top of your maintenance, more so than running a 'street lobe' solid roller, as you will be running tighter lash on a lobe with a different lash ramp profile, get it wrong and you will beat up your valve train or not seat valves properly and burn/damage the seats. A dedicated solid cam lobe has a lash ramp designed to control a solid lifter, the ramp has some margin for tighter and looser lash. A hydro lobe can actually be far more agressive at this point in the lift cycle so if you dont have it right you will be wishing you stayed hydro or simply bought the a solid cam with an appropriate lobe profile for your use!
Try needleless roller lifters with EDM pin oiling.... I've been using them for a while and so far, so good. No issues yet. I have more time on them than I did with the needle rollers.
I remember when i was like 20 and thought I knew everything about engines when i had a 540hp 8valve 4cyl. It must have broke 20 roller rocker tips so i said they were not strong enough so i went to old school sintered slider rockers and then i started snapping tips of the lifters🤣. Dumb me figured that was the next weakest link. Little did I know the springs were beat and the thing was floating the valves like crazy and the rockers were getting slapped. Now i enjoy listening to people that have more experience and are smarter than me so I can absorb some knowledge. 👍
You couldn't hear the valves floating at high RPMs? 🤔 Usually it's pretty easy to hear, and the engine feels like it hits a brick wall. The power just feels like it falls of a cliff.
@@davelowets i was 20 and had no idea what i was doing. Didn’t really have a blueprint to go by because it wasn’t a super popular combo and didn’t have anyone to really guide me. I just kinda figured it out myself the more i worked on it.
Then why do the lifter trays fail all the time. We see at least one engine a week come in where the lifter trays have failed and allowed the lifter to turn in the bore and then wipes out the cam?
Yes. After only 20k miles on my ls7 the lifters fall right out and there’s so much wiggle play I just put in new buckets with my old lifters on just a head swap. Was gonna use old buckets until I saw that . Rollers are nice but the old flat tapper solids are less worrisome
@@nurburgringdreaming2221 we see this all the time. We now use tie bar lifters to solve the problem. GMs lifter tray design sucks. Simple little dog bone worked for years and years on a small Chevy How many warranty motors they have had to replace you think they would have changed the factory design already
Can confirm seeing this pretty frequently on stock applications, and at relatively low mileage. Agree with Steve in theory, yet... I think the plastic trays just arent a great design personally.
They are used almost exclusively in pro stock where the harmonic and inertia dynamics of a ti bar become a limitation. Especially in engines operating at 10000+ rpm.
I can listen to you and all of your knowledge endlessly for hours on end. I have been a machinist and builder for a long time and all of your information is just more that I want to accomplish thank you for the great tech information and videos Steve
All the knowledge! I built a 383 about 6 or 7 years ago, for my extended cab. I ran a mild lunati voodoo solid roller, around 40,000 miles I had a lot of valve tip wear and added lash caps, when I had almost 60,000 miles on it the airfilter stud fell in the motor, I put new valves, springs, and lifters in it about 2 years ago. It still runs strong
I bought a boat (very cheaply) with a Chevy big block in it that knocked like a jack hammer. When I pulled the motor apart, I found the air filter stud in one of the cylinders. The round stud was beat into a square profile, the piston was wasted, and the crankshaft was actually bent. The connecting rod was surprisingly good yet. 1 used factory piston, had the crank straightened, honed the block, new rings and bearings, and it ran for a champ for many years until I sold it.
Speaking of lifters, I have a question please. There is a lot of talk online about production 5.7 Hemi's inherently susceptible to lifter failure and cam damage . Do you any knowledge or opinion on that matter
Take a look at factory G.M. 3.1/3.4 liter hydraulic lifters... If you crank the motor over without the pushrods in it long enough to build any oil pressure, and then put the pushrods back in it, it'll have ZERO compression for up to 30 minutes or even longer. The valves are hung slightly open because the lifter pumped up too far when there wasn't any pressure on the pushrod cup from the valve springs, and it takes a little while for the lifters to bleed back down and allow the valves to close. Years ago, when I did my first I take gasket replacement on one of these engines, I tired to start it and it sounded like it had no compression when it cranked. I was like WTF, did I get the pushrods mixed up? (The intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths) Did I somehow put the rockers on wrong? As I was looking for the issue for 30 minutes or so, the compression started coming back on individual cylinders, one by one, as I cranked it. It was then that I realized that the lifters had pumped up too far when I cranked it before without the pushrods in it. I've seen this happen with lifters in LS engines before also. So, if you have the issue of no compression after reassembling one of these motors, and you've done everything correctly, just let it sit for a little while and it'll come back.
I did that just a couple weeks ago. I've put head gaskets in many of these and this one for some reason would not get compression back. Went home, next day started fine.
Excellent content. I alway liked the hydraulic roller cam profiles better than the solid roller for the street. Best of both worlds running a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic roller cam.
That's why when I broke a rocker, the tie bar lifter turned enough (because of no spring pressure) and tore up the cam. I never understood why that happened until now.
i like how Steve explains things.i watched some David Vizard videos and he explains things like a scientist or professor,hard for the average joe to understand.but i can relate to how Steve explains everything.
I know this is probably beneath this guys knowledge but, i wish someone would do a video talking about todays roller cams/lifters. Ive seen so many people have clattering on startup, noisy valve trane, and lifters that bleed down to fast due to the lobe profiles. Call any of the cam manufacturers and they act like theyve never heard of this problem and never have a solution🤷♂️, even my high dollar custom built 383 has this very issue, builder says it "comes with the territory" of todays roller cams/lifters.
Comp Cams sell a lifter bore cutter used to broach in engine block for additional lifter lubrication . What are thoughts on this and oil impregnated bronze lifter bore sleeves ? Thanks a mint Steve !!!
What causes a lifter tray to fail ( ls style ) my lt1 gen5 spun a lifter (afm lifter) but the lifter isn't collapsed nor is there any push rod or rocker damage.
So with bigger roller size your going for a slower sfm or rpm of the roller for more life out of it? Hopefully youll do a video on valve springs one day. Id be curious to hear proper setup of a valve spring.
arent LS lifters and gen 1 roller lifters the same? i heard you can use them in a gen1 roller block and get chepaer high RPM lifters vs the tie bar lifters
Can you use a solid roller lifter as a daily or is it like the old days when you had to keep adjusting them every so many miles. Is it a set it and forget it?
To be clear: the reason the lifter wants to rotate when it is down on the 'base circle' is because the lifter is not ever perfectly square with the cam, and there is very little pressure on the lifter at that point (none on a solid lifter) to keep it in contact with the lobe and properly aligned. The only pressure on the hydraulic lifter when the valve is closed is supplied by that little spring inside the hydraulic lifter itself.
Has anyone ever offset the roller a tiny bit to provide 'caster trail' to assist in keeping the lifter straight in the bore? Or does it side load the lifter bore too much and cause wear?
Is the bushing required when you increase the wheel size? Or is it possible to just increase the bore size of the block to match the larger lifter? Is there another purpose for the use of the 2nd lifter bushing you showed us without the key way? Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us!
There’s a few reasons for the use of the lifter bush If you are needing to correct lifter to block clearance, repair a gauled lifter bore, or re-centre lifter bores square to the lobe then these bushes make those processes possible But one of the biggest advantages is for high rpm use and particularly if using the softer alloy block or conversely the extremely hard material found in something like a Dart pro block, the bronze bush material is much happier working with the tool steel lifter material without the added expense of a dlc lifter set.
Thanks for your page Steve and all the information you provide that you surely don’t have to do. I’ve been building engines for 40 years and I’ve learned so much more watching your content. I’ve been running solid flat tappet camshafts on my performance daily’s due to what I always figured was a “longevity” issue. What are your thoughts on solid roller camshafts for heavy street use? My concern is maintenance, outside of the routine lash checks. How often should one pull the intake to actually check lifters? I do understand that keeping up with the lash checks does shed light on possible problems but the few street builds I’ve done with solid rollers were normally maintained throughout the summer months for cruising season here in Montana, then just pull the intake every winter just to check the lifters themselves…
Years ago I built a valve train for a CAT3208 with multistage turbos and alcohol. lifter bodies were 7075 Al. Ran perfect until the crankshaft split. Any thoughts on aluminum lifters, for less inertial weight? I was more concerned about inertia in the rockers. Ideas? THANKS!
Was wondering what your opinion is about Melling hydraulic roller lifters and cams for bbc have you used them and do you like them? Thanks Steve btw great vids and thanks again for the knowledge.
Understand issue with racing, heavy valve springs causing lifter roller and roller rocker bearings. On street apps nothing wild just your avg everyday engine. Roller lifters, roller rockers all help with fuel efficiency right. Yes I've had roller lifters fail with solid roller cam car was street driven and cam was very aggressive. This was 351C with solid roller, never had issue yet with smallblock ford with inline head.
*** what lifters do you recommend?? planning on getting a comp cam solid roller camshaft 6-7 thousands lift. Wont be buying the bearing type, i hear a lot of recommended lifter companies, who do you recommend? what lifters are known to hold up and not break?? comp, crane.. etc..
We have a tool for keying the block and running a .904 size lifter in a small block Chevy Dart Block and we don't always use bushings but if we use a bushing it has the holes drilled all the way through like you suggested
I recently spoke with a cam manufacturer in the USA and done a lot of previous research there is so much cam and lifter failings even factory engines I was informed nothing is made in the USA it’s all China made with weak inferior metals
I like the fact you are wearing an HPP hoodie they make some beautiful cars especially their new one for NPK Chris Bains car the C7 with your 481X in it with a huge Harts single turbo hanging out in the front grille of the car
Great info! I first ran a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam in 2007 for the same reasons… I tried various lash settings and found the car went quicker and faster with 15 thou cold lash… I could set them to zero cold and as long as it would fire up and had temp on all cylinders it was fairly quiet when warmed up and the lash increased ( LS7 alloy block) which was great for road use with full exhaust. The other thing I really don’t like about keyway bush/lifters (and Steve touched on the difficulty in installing them and retrieving a lifter if one should fail) is the alignment has to be perfect on every single one else catastrophic damage will result… I only use the factory tray or a ti bar deal on LS. Thanks for the video Steve!. Keep them coming 💪
I have run Doug Herbert custom letters for the last 15 years they are rebuildable but I have never any problem with them I have read used in several Motors!!
Steve, unless an engine builder is at you level of understanding about how engine's work it appears to me that most everyone can learn from listening to Steve Tech. As a novice in this field I am truly appreciative with the amount of knowledge that you provide and are willing to provide. Thank you 👍
Nice work. A video on pros and cons of the hydraulic rollers cam with solid lifters would be cool. I wanted to do it at one stage and was told it wouldn't work too great. Couldn't work out why it wouldn't work. No that you said it does, I want to know more.
I love the idea of running solid lifters on a hyd roller cam. 😁😁👍
@@vrm86gt yeah good question!
@@vrm86gt weigh your hydro roller lifter and pushrod, weigh your solid roller lifter and pushrod. If you are lighter you can leave the spring pressure the same(assuming your hydro setup had good valve train control). You can also run a little more spring pressure if you want some more rpm ability past peak hp.
Keep in mind you need to be right on top of your maintenance, more so than running a 'street lobe' solid roller, as you will be running tighter lash on a lobe with a different lash ramp profile, get it wrong and you will beat up your valve train or not seat valves properly and burn/damage the seats. A dedicated solid cam lobe has a lash ramp designed to control a solid lifter, the ramp has some margin for tighter and looser lash. A hydro lobe can actually be far more agressive at this point in the lift cycle so if you dont have it right you will be wishing you stayed hydro or simply bought the a solid cam with an appropriate lobe profile for your use!
@@vrm86gt no probs✌
The bigger lifter wheels also spin slower so that also saves lifter pin bushings
And they have larger contact areas, spreading the load and reducing stresses and wear
Try needleless roller lifters with EDM pin oiling.... I've been using them for a while and so far, so good. No issues yet. I have more time on them than I did with the needle rollers.
Steve’s Mechanical engineering knowledge is awesome
Always a treat to hear and watch from a legendary Engine Builder/Designer/Air-Fluid-Dynamisicist, thank you Sir Morris!
How 19 minutes can go so fast 👍
Great stuff... Always love the knowledge, Steve...👍
I remember when i was like 20 and thought I knew everything about engines when i had a 540hp 8valve 4cyl. It must have broke 20 roller rocker tips so i said they were not strong enough so i went to old school sintered slider rockers and then i started snapping tips of the lifters🤣. Dumb me figured that was the next weakest link. Little did I know the springs were beat and the thing was floating the valves like crazy and the rockers were getting slapped. Now i enjoy listening to people that have more experience and are smarter than me so I can absorb some knowledge. 👍
You couldn't hear the valves floating at high RPMs? 🤔 Usually it's pretty easy to hear, and the engine feels like it hits a brick wall. The power just feels like it falls of a cliff.
@@davelowets i was 20 and had no idea what i was doing. Didn’t really have a blueprint to go by because it wasn’t a super popular combo and didn’t have anyone to really guide me. I just kinda figured it out myself the more i worked on it.
@@starionslider2116 You must have known enough to get 500+ out of a 4 cylinder
@@davelowets yea a 8 valve 4 cyl lol. It didn’t happen overnight. Lots of trial and error. I found allllll the weak links hahaha
Then why do the lifter trays fail all the time. We see at least one engine a week come in where the lifter trays have failed and allowed the lifter to turn in the bore and then wipes out the cam?
Yes. After only 20k miles on my ls7 the lifters fall right out and there’s so much wiggle play I just put in new buckets with my old lifters on just a head swap. Was gonna use old buckets until I saw that . Rollers are nice but the old flat tapper solids are less worrisome
@@nurburgringdreaming2221 we see this all the time. We now use tie bar lifters to solve the problem.
GMs lifter tray design sucks. Simple little dog bone worked for years and years on a small Chevy
How many warranty motors they have had to replace you think they would have changed the factory design already
Can confirm seeing this pretty frequently on stock applications, and at relatively low mileage.
Agree with Steve in theory, yet...
I think the plastic trays just arent a great design personally.
But can you run a solid flat tappet lifter on a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft?
So why do some go to so much trouble for keyed lifters and bushed lifter bores?
They are used almost exclusively in pro stock where the harmonic and inertia dynamics of a ti bar become a limitation. Especially in engines operating at 10000+ rpm.
@@ktmr8 Thank you for educating me.
Can you do a tech video on flat tappet lifters?
I can listen to you and all of your knowledge endlessly for hours on end. I have been a machinist and builder for a long time and all of your information is just more that I want to accomplish thank you for the great tech information and videos Steve
Great information as usual.
All the knowledge! I built a 383 about 6 or 7 years ago, for my extended cab. I ran a mild lunati voodoo solid roller, around 40,000 miles I had a lot of valve tip wear and added lash caps, when I had almost 60,000 miles on it the airfilter stud fell in the motor, I put new valves, springs, and lifters in it about 2 years ago. It still runs strong
I bought a boat (very cheaply) with a Chevy big block in it that knocked like a jack hammer. When I pulled the motor apart, I found the air filter stud in one of the cylinders. The round stud was beat into a square profile, the piston was wasted, and the crankshaft was actually bent. The connecting rod was surprisingly good yet. 1 used factory piston, had the crank straightened, honed the block, new rings and bearings, and it ran for a champ for many years until I sold it.
If you're changing lifters in an LS, LQ, LM style set up, change the trays also.
Make a book please easier said than done I'm sure. Love these videos
Speaking of lifters, I have a question please. There is a lot of talk online about production 5.7 Hemi's inherently susceptible to lifter failure and cam damage . Do you any knowledge or opinion on that matter
I have heard the same thing but can not say for sure. That may be a good question for Unkle Tony's garage, he bleeds mopar
Take a look at factory G.M. 3.1/3.4 liter hydraulic lifters... If you crank the motor over without the pushrods in it long enough to build any oil pressure, and then put the pushrods back in it, it'll have ZERO compression for up to 30 minutes or even longer. The valves are hung slightly open because the lifter pumped up too far when there wasn't any pressure on the pushrod cup from the valve springs, and it takes a little while for the lifters to bleed back down and allow the valves to close.
Years ago, when I did my first I take gasket replacement on one of these engines, I tired to start it and it sounded like it had no compression when it cranked. I was like WTF, did I get the pushrods mixed up? (The intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths) Did I somehow put the rockers on wrong? As I was looking for the issue for 30 minutes or so, the compression started coming back on individual cylinders, one by one, as I cranked it. It was then that I realized that the lifters had pumped up too far when I cranked it before without the pushrods in it.
I've seen this happen with lifters in LS engines before also. So, if you have the issue of no compression after reassembling one of these motors, and you've done everything correctly, just let it sit for a little while and it'll come back.
I did that just a couple weeks ago. I've put head gaskets in many of these and this one for some reason would not get compression back. Went home, next day started fine.
@@ottomechb It happened to every 3.1/3.4 that I did an intake gasket on, and also a few various LS engines that I had to pull the pushrods out of.
Thanks Steve for insight into this side of the motors. fascinating stuff. :-)
Excellent content. I alway liked the hydraulic roller cam profiles better than the solid roller for the street. Best of both worlds running a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic roller cam.
This guys content is awesome. Amongst all the chaff out there, nice to see a guy that truly knows his stuff and will share it.
Great info!
That's why when I broke a rocker, the tie bar lifter turned enough (because of no spring pressure) and tore up the cam. I never understood why that happened until now.
i like how Steve explains things.i watched some David Vizard videos and he explains things like a scientist or professor,hard for the average joe to understand.but i can relate to how Steve explains everything.
I know this is probably beneath this guys knowledge but, i wish someone would do a video talking about todays roller cams/lifters. Ive seen so many people have clattering on startup, noisy valve trane, and lifters that bleed down to fast due to the lobe profiles. Call any of the cam manufacturers and they act like theyve never heard of this problem and never have a solution🤷♂️, even my high dollar custom built 383 has this very issue, builder says it "comes with the territory" of todays roller cams/lifters.
What about Morel hydraulic lifters and Isky Red Zone bushing roller lifters ?
Everyone needs to go sign the rpm act bill of 2021 HR3281 to save our racing/mods
Comp Cams sell a lifter bore cutter used to broach in engine block for additional lifter lubrication . What are thoughts on this and oil impregnated bronze lifter bore sleeves ? Thanks a mint Steve !!!
Real racers hire chassis guys for their lifter tuning.
😂❤😂❤😂❤
Ha.....
Anyone here ever heard of adjusting hydraulic rollers to the bottom then backing em off a turn ? 🤔
What causes a lifter tray to fail ( ls style ) my lt1 gen5 spun a lifter (afm lifter) but the lifter isn't collapsed nor is there any push rod or rocker damage.
What about solid lifters? You only talked a lot about hydraulic lifters except the little bit about using solids on a hydraulic cam.
Not understanding bbf geometry with different hydraulic rollers. Other than height of tie bar.
TO MENEY ADS
What makes them push the pushrod through rocker arm...flat lifters with 0 lash. Went to a stamped roller and now it's pushing nuts off studs
So with bigger roller size your going for a slower sfm or rpm of the roller for more life out of it? Hopefully youll do a video on valve springs one day. Id be curious to hear proper setup of a valve spring.
arent LS lifters and gen 1 roller lifters the same? i heard you can use them in a gen1 roller block and get chepaer high RPM lifters vs the tie bar lifters
When should an axle oiling lifter be used? And can a short travel lifter make more valve lift and power than a standard full travel lifter?
Thank you Mr Morris ! Very informative and interesting.
If you run a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic camshaft does it require adjustments occasionally?
How come no one hasn't developed a Ducati type value train yet for drag engines?
Can you use a solid roller lifter as a daily or is it like the old days when you had to keep adjusting them every so many miles. Is it a set it and forget it?
I ran a solid roller on a hyd cam for three years around 750 lift. .010 lash hot. It’s almost zero cold
Good stuff. Never put much thought into lifter design.
Awesome tech videos Steve! Educating people on how parts work really helps making a decision on getting the right stuff for the application
Ever thought the keyway can be used to restrict float of the lifter on the cam with a longer bushing and a wide axle?
Heaps of awesome information, thanks, all the best to you and your loved ones
Very interesting video, be even better without 9 ads for things I will never buy.
6.0 liter diesels love sending needle bearings through oil pump
I have heard some say that they see a lot more bushed lifter failures than needle bearing lifter failures (on street engines\less than 800hp).
So what makes the noise in some hyd roller lifter ? Not all do it but some are renowned to be noisy. What is causing the noise ?
Man I wish I could afford to have you build me a dry deck big bore short stroke ls.
I love your videos, they are so informative. I love the clatter of a solid lifter camshaft!!! It's music to my ears!!!
To be clear: the reason the lifter wants to rotate when it is down on the 'base circle' is because the lifter is not ever perfectly square with the cam, and there is very little pressure on the lifter at that point (none on a solid lifter) to keep it in contact with the lobe and properly aligned. The only pressure on the hydraulic lifter when the valve is closed is supplied by that little spring inside the hydraulic lifter itself.
Has anyone ever offset the roller a tiny bit to provide 'caster trail' to assist in keeping the lifter straight in the bore? Or does it side load the lifter bore too much and cause wear?
Is the bushing required when you increase the wheel size? Or is it possible to just increase the bore size of the block to match the larger lifter? Is there another purpose for the use of the 2nd lifter bushing you showed us without the key way?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us!
There’s a few reasons for the use of the lifter bush
If you are needing to correct lifter to block clearance, repair a gauled lifter bore, or re-centre lifter bores square to the lobe then these bushes make those processes possible
But one of the biggest advantages is for high rpm use and particularly if using the softer alloy block or conversely the extremely hard material found in something like a Dart pro block, the bronze bush material is much happier working with the tool steel lifter material without the added expense of a dlc lifter set.
Greateat Stuff Steve learned a lot of little things i didn't know
Thanks for the class Steve.
Feel late to the game just now seeing some of your videos .
What about solid flat tappet lifters on a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft? One guy on UA-cam had good luck doing it.
Hey Steve, do you think Garrett (Cletus) will ever invest in one of your engines?
That answer is no. He is a goofball.
You didn't talk about flat tappet lifters.
Lifters are in a whole different light now!
History class 101 . Thanks
The weight of the tie bar not an issue at high rpm?
Interesting…
I just got your stage 2 blower cam. Got a set of Morel 4602 lifters, now I’m reconsidering a bushed hydraulic lifter.
Really good information!
Thanks for your page Steve and all the information you provide that you surely don’t have to do. I’ve been building engines for 40 years and I’ve learned so much more watching your content. I’ve been running solid flat tappet camshafts on my performance daily’s due to what I always figured was a “longevity” issue. What are your thoughts on solid roller camshafts for heavy street use? My concern is maintenance, outside of the routine lash checks. How often should one pull the intake to actually check lifters? I do understand that keeping up with the lash checks does shed light on possible problems but the few street builds I’ve done with solid rollers were normally maintained throughout the summer months for cruising season here in Montana, then just pull the intake every winter just to check the lifters themselves…
The Penske/Ilmor/Mercedes pushrod engine that dominated the Indy 500 had over 5000 needles in its bearings. Ouch! Nice job Steve.
Years ago I built a valve train for a CAT3208 with multistage turbos and alcohol. lifter bodies were 7075 Al. Ran perfect until the crankshaft split.
Any thoughts on aluminum lifters, for less inertial weight? I was more concerned about inertia in the rockers. Ideas? THANKS!
Was wondering what your opinion is about Melling hydraulic roller lifters and cams for bbc have you used them and do you like them? Thanks Steve btw great vids and thanks again for the knowledge.
Understand issue with racing, heavy valve springs causing lifter roller and roller rocker bearings. On street apps nothing wild just your avg everyday engine. Roller lifters, roller rockers all help with fuel efficiency right. Yes I've had roller lifters fail with solid roller cam car was street driven and cam was very aggressive. This was 351C with solid roller, never had issue yet with smallblock ford with inline head.
not a gearhead and I still watch
Thanks for the information
*** what lifters do you recommend?? planning on getting a comp cam solid roller camshaft 6-7 thousands lift. Wont be buying the bearing type, i hear a lot of recommended lifter companies, who do you recommend? what lifters are known to hold up and not break?? comp, crane.. etc..
We have a tool for keying the block and running a .904 size lifter in a small block Chevy Dart Block and we don't always use bushings but if we use a bushing it has the holes drilled all the way through like you suggested
Thank you Steve!!!!1
I recently spoke with a cam manufacturer in the USA and done a lot of previous research there is so much cam and lifter failings even factory engines
I was informed nothing is made in the USA it’s all China made with weak inferior metals
Lifter gallery not gally
I like the fact you are wearing an HPP hoodie they make some beautiful cars especially their new one for NPK Chris Bains car the C7 with your 481X in it with a huge Harts single turbo hanging out in the front grille of the car
Solid flat tappet for the win.
Great info!
I first ran a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam in 2007 for the same reasons… I tried various lash settings and found the car went quicker and faster with 15 thou cold lash… I could set them to zero cold and as long as it would fire up and had temp on all cylinders it was fairly quiet when warmed up and the lash increased ( LS7 alloy block) which was great for road use with full exhaust.
The other thing I really don’t like about keyway bush/lifters (and Steve touched on the difficulty in installing them and retrieving a lifter if one should fail) is the alignment has to be perfect on every single one else catastrophic damage will result… I only use the factory tray or a ti bar deal on LS.
Thanks for the video Steve!.
Keep them coming 💪
I have run Doug Herbert custom letters for the last 15 years they are rebuildable but I have never any problem with them I have read used in several Motors!!
It is amazing that it took so long for the aftermarket , to build 1939 Harley Davidson lifters.
Great info, Thanks... What oil or additive would you recommend using in a old 455 muscle car with a hyd lifter cam ,none roller.
Your the Thesaurus of the engine building world M8. I really enjoy learning the finer details of engine building. Thanks Stevo
3:44 was that Dewey?
Binging your videos. Man you are insane. The amount of knowledge, info and specs that you talk about just off memory is amazing.
Steve, unless an engine builder is at you level of understanding about how engine's work it appears to me that most everyone can learn from listening to Steve Tech. As a novice in this field I am truly appreciative with the amount of knowledge that you provide and are willing to provide. Thank you 👍
Thanks Steve !
Now can we have a chat about what is the zone of oil pressure is best for the hydraulic roller lifter ? What is your take on it steve ?
Thanks for answering my exact question, a couple of months ago.
Awesome engine builder and Video. Thanks for the information 👍👍👍
love your knowledge !
hate how you say black instead of block but hey worth the watch !
keep up the good work !
You can also take a regular lifter and if you know how to measure it, make it a limited travel lifter with a longer than normal pushrod.
Steve, can you do a video on hybrid roller setups, Solid rollers on Hyd Roller cams?
Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge Steve. I always learn something new
Steve, this is the best engine info videos on utube. no bull no hyp. just real good info. thank you. JB from nz
Thanks for taking the time !! As always, greatly appreciated Sir !!
Steve would it be possible to broach or machine the lifters bore for keyed lifters?
like your breakdown have you considered knurling the lifter
Nice work. A video on pros and cons of the hydraulic rollers cam with solid lifters would be cool. I wanted to do it at one stage and was told it wouldn't work too great. Couldn't work out why it wouldn't work. No that you said it does, I want to know more.