At 4:00 into the video, the author stops the crankshaft at # 1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. Then he begins to adjust both intake and exhaust valve rocker arms. This is correct for # 1 cylinder! At 6:39 into the video, this where I do things a bit differently. I rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and then adjust the rocker arms for the next cylinder in the firing order, of which is # 8 cylinder for the SBC. Next, I rotate the crankshaft another 90 degrees, of which allows for the adjustment of # 4 cylinder rocker arms. You will continue right down the firing order..... 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. This is known as the 8 stop static procedure, and is Goof-Proof. Keep in mind that we are setting the depth of the hydraulic plunger..... we are not adjusting valves. By the way, doing this prior to the installation of the intake manifold (as he is doing), and prior to the cam followers having oil in them, we have the opertunity to view the top of the plungers as they begin to move downward. In other words, we can actually watch the plunger begin to move downward after ZERO lash has been established. The average SBC hydraulic cam follower plunger offers approximately .080" to .100" of travel. This will vary from manufacture to manufacture. The goal is to set the plunger into the cam follower body by approx 40% to 50% of it's total travel. Rocker arm stud thread pitch Xs rocker arm ratio (1:1.5) Xs nut rotation, gives of this dimension. NOTE: for a high performance camshaft, you may want to use the manufacture's spec sheet and a degree wheel, in order to make this adjustment during exact bottom of base circle.
I have set my valves similar to that. I would find TDC and set the valves on #1 cylinder, then rotate balancer 90 degrees and set the valves on the #8 cylinder, all I do is follow the firing order and set the valves every 90 degrees
Interesting. I have always followed the exhaust starting to open, set intake valve, intake closing set exhaust valve. I do this to ensure the valve being adjusted has the cam lobe on the base circle. Not saying either way is better, just my way is different. Never had any issues.
Lifter preload is to hide manufacturer inconsistency and or take the human equation out of the assembly process. Basically, it's for keeping quality control without having to have skilled assembly workers. Preload will be a problem in a performance application when you are running high rpm. If a valve floats at all, the lifter will take up the slack and then the valve doesn't close.
Great video I had a Question I’m trying to set me valves as well I have roller lifters and some seem to be not spring action do I have to dip them in oil or buy new lifters it’s for a 350’chevy small block
waiting for reply on this as I am doing similar work. I am replacing the head gaskets on a sbc. Motor still in boat, lifters not taken out. Do these lifters need any attention before or after valve adjustment?
Stock or not, always adust intake, then the exhaust, on separate rotations. You adjust the lifter on the OPPOSITE order of fire from the one that is FULLY OPEN. That is the ONLY WAY you can be on the very back of the lobe on the base circle. With #1 intake fully open, adjust #6 intake 1/2 turn in from ZERO lash. 1 - 6 8 - 5 4 - 7 3 - 2 6 - 1 5 - 8 7 - 4 2 - 3
Hey Pat! I set my pushrods to o lash then half of turn. Runs fine, but there A slight ticking when running, really have to listen to hear it. Would you recommend tighting down another 1/4 turn. Comp 1.52 roller rockers Melling harden foot hydraulic lifters plus stock push rods. 😊
Engine off valve cover off, grab each rocker and wiggle it See if any feel abit loose If everything is correct than 1/2 a turn preload will work fine but you can go another 1/4 turn no problem, if you want Some cams are just abit noisy, no matter how you adjust the valve train
@@cuttersperformance ok, it's A voodoo 268, brought the spring kit off ya, for the vortec,s . With the help from your videos . My engine build has come together nicely. Thanks Pat
@@cuttersperformance thanks I'm trying to get my engine rebuild this week and I just wanted to know everything I need for the top end of the engine . Should I let the guy rebuilding the engine pick the pushrod? Or should I get 7.850 pushrods
With your manifold on can you just feel push rod go down on intake and feel for air, I'm going to re check my valve train after its been rebuilt a bit ago
Question:. . 350 block 305 heads?..is there any mods that need to be addressed if anywhen going this route as far as pushrod length ,certain gaskets that need to be used ? Your expertise will be greatly appreciated.thanks in advance
305 heads on a 350 block is no problem. Pushrods should be the same or similar but will have to be checked just like any head swap. The head gaskets are determined by the bore size so 350 head gaskets will be used. Nothing really weird about putting 305 heads on a 350 but putting 350 heads on a 305 can be tricky as often times youll have valve to cylinder clearance issues with valves bigger than 1.94.
I don't actually soak my lifters but I do coat them in oil and prime every engine I build once its together to get oil in the lifters I will be posting a video on priming a sbc
I pump up my lifters to make sure they work properly, you don't have to but 1st startup can be noisy if they're part filled so don't panic right away. If you do pump them up, some folks seem to over tighten them but it's never happened to me so I don't know how that happens. I pre-load about 0.020", which usually is about 1/2 turn. Can't see lifter pre-load if intake manifold's already installed.
@@cuttersperformance Absolutely, we must prime the oiling system! 100% agree. Several times I've replaced lifters without pumping them up and no priming of any kind, the lifters will make plenty of noise in this case. Priming probably would've eliminated most, if not all of this. I've also bought lifters which were pre-pumped with oil, I guess the factory actually tested leak-down. I've been pre-pumping them before install to test leak down rate since hearing of so many cam failures.
I always get excited when I hear your intro music. I know I'm about to get a good and FREE education. Thanks.
Thanks man! I appreciate that
At 4:00 into the video, the author stops the crankshaft at # 1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke.
Then he begins to adjust both intake and exhaust valve rocker arms.
This is correct for # 1 cylinder!
At 6:39 into the video, this where I do things a bit differently.
I rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and then adjust the rocker arms for the next cylinder in the firing order, of which is # 8 cylinder for the SBC.
Next, I rotate the crankshaft another 90 degrees, of which allows for the adjustment of # 4 cylinder rocker arms.
You will continue right down the firing order..... 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
This is known as the 8 stop static procedure, and is Goof-Proof.
Keep in mind that we are setting the depth of the hydraulic plunger..... we are not adjusting valves.
By the way, doing this prior to the installation of the intake manifold (as he is doing), and prior to the cam followers having oil in them, we have the opertunity to view the top of the plungers as they begin to move downward.
In other words, we can actually watch the plunger begin to move downward after ZERO lash has been established.
The average SBC hydraulic cam follower plunger offers approximately .080" to .100" of travel. This will vary from manufacture to manufacture.
The goal is to set the plunger into the cam follower body by approx 40% to 50% of it's total travel.
Rocker arm stud thread pitch Xs rocker arm ratio (1:1.5) Xs nut rotation, gives of this dimension.
NOTE: for a high performance camshaft, you may want to use the manufacture's spec sheet and a degree wheel, in order to make this adjustment during exact bottom of base circle.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. WILL USE TOMORROW. THANKS.
I have set my valves similar to that. I would find TDC and set the valves on #1 cylinder, then rotate balancer 90 degrees and set the valves on the #8 cylinder, all I do is follow the firing order and set the valves every 90 degrees
Rebuilt motor Im glad I was able to start my engine without proper torque now I only need adjustments . For corrections
Interesting. I have always followed the exhaust starting to open, set intake valve, intake closing set exhaust valve. I do this to ensure the valve being adjusted has the cam lobe on the base circle. Not saying either way is better, just my way is different. Never had any issues.
Yes thats also a common way, both ways work great 👍
Great video. Very informative. Thanks
Lifter preload is to hide manufacturer inconsistency and or take the human equation out of the assembly process. Basically, it's for keeping quality control without having to have skilled assembly workers. Preload will be a problem in a performance application when you are running high rpm. If a valve floats at all, the lifter will take up the slack and then the valve doesn't close.
Great video I had a Question I’m trying to set me valves as well I have roller lifters and some seem to be not spring action do I have to dip them in oil or buy new lifters it’s for a 350’chevy small block
Are they new or used lifters?
There the ones that was with the motor not new
waiting for reply on this as I am doing similar work. I am replacing the head gaskets on a sbc. Motor still in boat, lifters not taken out. Do these lifters need any attention before or after valve adjustment?
@@thermfamily3180 are the cups inside the lifter coming up and resting against retaining clip?
Stock or not, always adust intake, then the exhaust, on separate rotations. You adjust the lifter on the OPPOSITE order of fire from the one that is FULLY OPEN.
That is the ONLY WAY you can be on the very back of the lobe on the base circle. With #1 intake fully open, adjust #6 intake 1/2 turn in from ZERO lash.
1 - 6
8 - 5
4 - 7
3 - 2
6 - 1
5 - 8
7 - 4
2 - 3
Hey Pat!
I set my pushrods to o lash then half of turn. Runs fine, but there A slight ticking when running, really have to listen to hear it. Would you recommend tighting down another 1/4 turn. Comp 1.52 roller rockers
Melling harden foot hydraulic lifters plus stock push rods.
😊
Engine off valve cover off, grab each rocker and wiggle it
See if any feel abit loose
If everything is correct than 1/2 a turn preload will work fine but you can go another 1/4 turn no problem, if you want
Some cams are just abit noisy, no matter how you adjust the valve train
@@cuttersperformance ok, it's A voodoo 268, brought the spring kit off ya, for the vortec,s . With the help from your videos . My engine build has come together nicely. Thanks Pat
Ok I'm back again lol 👋🏽 do I need guide plates? If running self alignment rocker arms?
No guide plates with self aligning rocker arm
@@cuttersperformance thanks I'm trying to get my engine rebuild this week and I just wanted to know everything I need for the top end of the engine . Should I let the guy rebuilding the engine pick the pushrod? Or should I get 7.850 pushrods
@@88classic id probably just let the guy assembling the engine to verify the pushrod length for you, just to be sure
@@cuttersperformance thanks enjoy your Sunday and labor day 👍🏽
@@88classic you to brother! 🍻
With your manifold on can you just feel push rod go down on intake and feel for air, I'm going to re check my valve train after its been rebuilt a bit ago
EVERY single part needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Grit from machine work (the parts actual creation or recondition) will clog oil passages. 👍🏻
Question:. . 350 block 305 heads?..is there any mods that need to be addressed if anywhen going this route as far as pushrod length ,certain gaskets that need to be used ? Your expertise will be greatly appreciated.thanks in advance
305 heads on a 350 block is no problem. Pushrods should be the same or similar but will have to be checked just like any head swap. The head gaskets are determined by the bore size so 350 head gaskets will be used.
Nothing really weird about putting 305 heads on a 350 but putting 350 heads on a 305 can be tricky as often times youll have valve to cylinder clearance issues with valves bigger than 1.94.
Keep.up the good work
Thank you I appreciate that
Question. Are your pushrods always able to spin?
Easy with adjustable rockers
Dope Video
"Cylinder to cylinder" means you're spending more time turning the engine than adjusting the valves, but whatever floats your boat
Ya i know lol not as efficient but its just the way ove always done it
Who cares? Are you paying for his time?
I have a question bro
Hey Google - this video is THE answer. Quiet valve train and max vacuum, without wearing out the shop floor.
chevy says one full turn from zero lash on my 327
Do you soak your lifters ?
I don't actually soak my lifters but I do coat them in oil and prime every engine I build once its together to get oil in the lifters
I will be posting a video on priming a sbc
I pump up my lifters to make sure they work properly, you don't have to but 1st startup can be noisy if they're part filled so don't panic right away. If you do pump them up, some folks seem to over tighten them but it's never happened to me so I don't know how that happens. I pre-load about 0.020", which usually is about 1/2 turn. Can't see lifter pre-load if intake manifold's already installed.
I find priming the engine before start up works great for getting oil in the lifters and eliminates start up noise
@@cuttersperformance Absolutely, we must prime the oiling system! 100% agree. Several times I've replaced lifters without pumping them up and no priming of any kind, the lifters will make plenty of noise in this case. Priming probably would've eliminated most, if not all of this. I've also bought lifters which were pre-pumped with oil, I guess the factory actually tested leak-down. I've been pre-pumping them before install to test leak down rate since hearing of so many cam failures.
@@cuttersperformance I always prime the engine until I have oil at all 16 rockers.
This is a chevy 350 ?
Yes it is