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Morris Minor - Cutting out Rust - Part 17
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2019
- Things are getting scary with cutting out panels ready to replace with shiny new rust free ones.
Thanks to Supercheap Auto for supplying fantastic tools to get the job done:
ToolPro Angle Grinder:
www.supercheap...
ToolPRO Car Stands - Ratchet, 2000kg
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The car is a 1958 Morris Minor 1000 with the 948cc engine. Last WOF was in 1995 and has been parked up ever since.
Here's the rest of the series:
Part 1
• Barn Find Project Car ...
Part 2
• Barn Find Morris Minor...
Part 3
• Morris Minor - Coolan...
Part 4
• Morris Minor - Cleanin...
Part 5
• Morris Minor - Compres...
Part 6
• Morris Minor Engine Re...
Part 7
• Pressure washing the A...
Part 8
• Morris Minor Cylinder ...
Part 9
• Morris Minor - Cylinde...
Part 10
• Morris Minor - Strippi...
Part 11
• Morris Minor - Removin...
Part 12
• Morris Minor - Finding...
Part 13
• Morris Minor - Rust Re...
Part 14
• Morris Minor Project U...
Part 15a
• Morris Minor - Windscr...
Part16
• Morris Minor - Clearin...
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Good see you making headway on the Moggy 👍 Personally, in addition to the measurements, I'd have tack welded some temporary bracing , front to back, top to bottom just to be sure it all stays in place & doesn't sag. I'd definitely give it a thought before you start removing anything else or you could end up with hell of a job hanging the doors.
Thanks for the advice. Definitely something I'll consider before chopping anything else out
i have to agree about the bracing Hes asking for trouble by not doing it
Ah well, it will be as straight as it came out the factory 🤷♂️
Reminds me of when I worked in the body shop.There are special tools that make drilling spot welds on the pinch areas super easy but of course theyre expensive. You're videos are inspiring me to push forward my my project...lots of rust to fix also .
I did have a spot weld drill but it was a cheap one and didn't work at all. Glad this project can be an inspiration 😊
@@Badgertronix Pete C uses a bit similar to yours but using a different technique - he pre-drills every spot with a regular 3 mm bit (or whatever that centre bit is on your spotweld removal set) all the way through and then follows up with the spotweld bit. That looks more time-consuming but easier because the spotweld bit can't move about.
Just for clarification, 99% of my knowledge about car repair and restoration is entirely theoretical and picked up from UA-cam :-D
My practical experience is limited to replacing spark plugs on construction equipment (basic 1-cylinder Briggs or Honda) and replacement of minor parts (front indicator assembly, rear edge cover) on a Mitsubishi L300 - nothing past a few Philips screws. I do also have some experience with rusted fasteners from messing with pre-WWII trams and lifts. No welding or sheet metal repair though.
Will be so rewarding to look back how the moggy once was with all the rust and after all the hard work put into it finally a nice rust free example, top job mate 👍👍👍👍
I can't wait to get to the end and look back and see all the work I've done and skills I've learned 😊
You couldn't hear me screaming "Don't forget the trafficator wire!" 😄
Sorry couldn't hear you with my earplugs in 🤣
Thats a lot of work ! But it needed to be done . Your doing it right and a Great job . Well done .
Thanks. Relatively speaking is quite a clean car, but it still needs a lot of work!
Nice work! I'm so glad I'm coming to the end of the bodywork on my project. Glad to have found this channel, subscribed! 👍
Awesome. Welcome to the channel and great you're bearing the end of your project
Might not be a bad idea to get the replacement panels before you take too much else off. You might have to do some custom fitting, and keeping the original things in place will help you make some good measurements.
Great advice and that's the plan. I just needed to make a start so I could figure what what I needed. Cheers
Yeah, that was my concern too. Hopefully you can get the right pieces and they fit, but sometimes the quality of parts leaves a lot to be desired, and requires rethinking your repair approach.
@@joshonthetube I hear good things about the panels I was planning on getting but you can guarantee there will be plenty of custom work needed
edward mckenzie my thoughts exactly.
Love the way you work. I'm doing the same job on a traveler at the moment , some panels I bought some I will make.I have been able to source everything from one supplier in the U.K. Thanks for posting,looking forward to your next video.
Thanks for watching. Which super did you use? I'll be buying panels from the UK too
@@Badgertronix E.S.M www.morrisminorspares.com/ they have everything you need for the job,very efficient.
@@Badgertronix Bull motif or ESM in the UK can supply all your panels
Great video and some totally essential comments to remind us of the precautions and perils.
Cheers
Great, love moggy work. Keep it coming. I had a traveller years ago that I done up. I put an a series 1300 in one as project. Love to do it all again 👍👍👍
Awesome, thanks for watching :)
Great job Jonathan! I know it has to be done but I still hold my breath when anyone cuts or drills into a car 🙈😂😂
I'm not a big fan either. Especially when it's my own one. Cheers Niamh
You can use Rustoleum satin black as a finishing coat in the cavities and under body, before apply under seal, oh and seam sealer for the welds.
I'll be using whatever Supercheap sell. Cheers
This video popped up, so started watching the playlist. Just in case you don't know, Moggies were designed for a flat 4, like a Beetle. But they couldn't get it to work, so put the A30 engine in. Hence all the space under the bonnet. I had 2 of these in the early 70s, both needed lots of welding then lol. Not quite seen it yet, but guess it's No1 exhaust valve. I also reconditioned engines in the early 70s and have done a few of these. But mainly Ford Mk1 Cortina 1200cc. Terrible engines. A series 2nd best ever made, after the small block Chevy.
Spot on, burnt valve on no1 cylinder 👌
Nice to see someone in the same position as me, I have just begun to strip my 1965 2 door down, I know for a fact it will have more rust than yours. I too have decided to take "Gracie" my 65 on a road trip once it's complete and have set August 2021 as my goal date.keep up the good work.Love the videos.
Awesome. Good luck with getting Gracie back on the road
@@Badgertronix cheers, I have spent the last couple of hours steam cleaning the fuel tank thankfully it appears solid.
i could cry how this man has destroyed a good moggy,,, cutting perfect panels out....
The ones with the rusty holes in them?
Noticed the amount of tin worm holes in that inner and outer sill location and brace panels, lot would say to patch them and install new metal where needed. But with a car from the 1950s I suppose a complete panel strip is the best way forward time consuming but for a worthwhile job on a classic like the morris or austin 1000 it's worth it. Nice video upload by the way you are a true craftsman looking forward to your next upload. Regards
The repair panels are cheap enough so might be the easy option. Although replacing lots of panels gets expensive. I'm sure I'll end up with a happy medium. Cheers
The Joy's of cutting out the rusty panels it's looking good tho
Scary making a start but not looking too bad. Cheers
Just like Mini's every part is available on Minors.
Fantastic having everything available, 😊
Should you have not tacked on braces to body to keep it true?
Nice job preserving the skin. It's hard to believe your experiencing zero degrees and were in the high 30's (celsius). In doing rust repair the direction will become apparent when you find more rust. :)
Thanks Wyatt. I enjoy winter but not always when I'm trying to do work on cars. I think my welder will get a good workout on this project
looking good the front pillar and rear dog leg i usual mark about 3inches above the era i need to remove then cut it across and drill the spot welds far easier than removing the whole panel
when you go to refit the centre pillar use some screws to hold it in place most times after you take something like that out the gaps will alter by screwing it in first you can fit the doors and gap it prior to welding
try plug welding the new panels in if you stitch weld the heat will tend to pull the metal as it cools and might cause issues when refiting everything doors etc
Great advice, thanks. I was thinking that could be a good option to cut out the bottom section only.
What is the screwdriver drill thing you are using?
Good to see ya using a proper hammer.
You were my inspiration for getting a decent hammer
Good tools made quick work of that. Now I'm off to watch Steve shave a Moose tail.
@@Badgertronix Those are tall tales.
👍
You don't often see people doing mechanical stripdowns before a rough body is tackled- it's the sign of either supreme confidence- or someone who has 5 other Minors which could use the engine and gearbox if this one folds in half..
Thankfully the body isn't that rough. Parts and bodies are plentiful so I'll end up with a car one way or the other
P.S. sorry about the 0 degree bit, its 30 plus on the George Cross island.
Can't say I know where that it is but it sounds warm and pleasant.
@@Badgertronix Malta,very nice, but not as much as it used to be.
My dad spent time at RAF Luqa as it was back then
@@Badgertronix I did too, most of my time in the R.A.F. was in the U.K. however, back in the 70's
The course of the repair is likely determined by how skillful you are with a welder...
So it will turn out perfect then 😂
74 going up to 84 on the F scale.
Make it ah won door, you very funny Dr Jones.
Looks like you got your work cut out four4 ya.
I'd say no pun intended but you know that be pulling your leg or in Steve's case, tale.
Nice job pal. Time flies when you're having fun.
Hey word has it you are historic.
ua-cam.com/video/k6e9F958QL0/v-deo.html
Good workout 👍 looks like its much easier to restore now. 35 hours will turn into 350 hours to finish , thats my guess.
That sounds like a reasonable time line 🤣 thanks buddy
Definitely needs some rust repair!
A little bit but sure could be worse
That's true! Nothing that can't be fixed is a good thing :)
The old tin worm isn't too bad really, consider the age and the NZ climate.
It's pretty solid really for a barn find that wasn't very sheltered.
Was waiting along time for this update. Interesting to watch but I would be putting this job off indefinitely as it's a lot of work. Maybe I'm getting lazy in my old age. The hammering drives the wife nuts as she hates my car videos.....
Time for a new wife 🤣
For the small rusty areas, cut them out and replace with sheet metal just like @jademuttley does. He’s an amazing welder/fabricator so why not give it a go and save the time it takes in taking more panels off. 😀
I want to take off as little as possible but I'm not an amazing welder/fabricator so I'll do my best :)
Can't agree more why replace if you can repair. I was holding my breath all the time.me I'm 74yrs young and been repairing Morris minors since I was 13yrs old.please don't strangle hammers when using them hold them down the bottom of shaft.but top marks for trying. Kevin.
It's off... Taa-Daa!!! (you missed that part) =)
I'll save it for the other side 🤣
@@Badgertronix The Dark Side of the Moon
Oops sorry make that Morris.
Yea gad ya mad... I have a window rattler /heat pump for your garage if you want it? ❄️❄️❄️
That would be awesome. My old bones didn't appreciate working in the cold 🥶
@@Badgertronix Long sleeves might have improved things as well :-) Wouldn't dream of working in shirtsleeves below, say, 15 degrees, out in the sun maybe 12.
That’s the B pillar not the A good work though
I started off calling it the B pillar. I think the cold got to my brain
if you have a bit of rust , i can weld a car to it.
Its worse than it looked. Hopefully it doesn't get out of control like Jerrys Chevy Bel Air before he junked it. Body panels never fit quite right and these cars weren't made that straight at the factory.
I don't think it's too bad overall. There's not much rust on the other side thankfully