You know Jerry, I see where people on old Ford truck pages are constantly saying that replacing the door bottoms is all but impossible and I keep directing them to Your videos, not only do You prove it is possible but You make it look so easy to do, keep up with Your videos I can't speak for others but I find them very informative and I learn something from every one of Your videos, Thanks for sharing Your years of experience.
I really appreciate your kind words and support Ed - glad you like the videos. At the shop I worked at we did a lot of rust repair. We were the scrubs of the town and there was an upper crust body shop that got all the nice work :) Funny how things work out - there's a reason for everything I guess. Hope to continue to upload for years to come my friend - thanks for watching ☺
I love this kind of video. All the technical stuff you need to know, plus it leaves you feeling like you can easily do it yourself. The confidence to try is 80% of it. Thanks for these! 👍
I have watched a few of your uploads. They all inspire confidence in the hobbyist to have a go. Very clearly laid out and very watchable. After years of deliberation I am about to buy a mig welder and mess around on one of my old rust buckets on wheels and see what happens. Thank you for your efforts!
Please do and fill me in on how it goes - I love to hear the stories. Go for it - you'll be so proud of yourself for it. The more you do it, the easier it gets. You'll make mistakes for sure but even fixing your own mess ups is good practice. Jerry
Thank you so much for your diligence in putting these videos together for us!...You're giving me the the drive and confidence to get back on my plymouth project.
Thanks I'll be re-doing the rockers and door bottoms of my 05 trailblazer next year. My door inners will need a bit of work. I've a hf 200 multi. and I took some nite school welding. I've been practicing on 22ga. And will be practicing all winter too. Thanks for the lessons I'm from Milwaukee. Love the Metal intro's
That was amazing. Liked, subscibed and hit the notification bell. Thank you for taking the time to teach all of us. You make the internet great and I appreciate you.
Never seen the tap the weld down technique. That’ll work great especially in hard to grind areas. The boy and I are just getting into body work and your videos seem to make it easier compared to others. We just picked up a selection of Stanley cheese graters at Menards on sale.
I’m really enjoying your videos! Most other instruction on this stuff treats it like brain surgery, very intimidating, but seeing how you do this in a real working shop is enlightening. Just get her done. The end result is all that matters! 👍
Absolutely - I want people to realize that "you can do this". Even if it looks like s^$# the first time - I promise the next time it will look better. I believe after years of being scared, it's better to go for it. Thanks, Jerry
Thank you for the video it was very informative to me. As a amateur trying to repair my own cars you answered a lot of my questions. I have one other question why do you butt weld the ends of the panel and lap weld the width of the panel
Good video! I've been investigating different methods of welding a patch to the car. You can separate opinions and methods mainly to two categories, Butt weld people and lap weld/flange weld people. Some people even glue. A car painter that I know, has been in business 40 years told me just like you explained, if you grind a butt weld or lap weld down -> you grind the weld down that you just did! I think what you did holds the patch in the car body/door solid. Some say that you don't need to use much filler when you do a butt weld. But what difference does it make? An Inch of bondo is too much to use despite the method. The amount can be very similar between the two methods. The biggest enemy of repaired area is moisture which leads to rust. By butt welding you leave a bigger chance for moisture getting to past the weld seam and caught between the filler and patch -> Bubbles in paint (rust)..
You are absolutely correct in your thinking. One thing I noticed through the years is - don't be afraid to "hit it low and fill it with dough" Honestly, I believe the thicker rigid layer of filler is better and lasts as long as you're going to have the car. Weld the lap welds solid if you're worried about moisture or use glue. I've never seen anyone butt weld patches in a professional body shop - I've worked in four different ones in my career - even spent some time at Maaco. Honestly, a guy that tried to strictly butt weld patches in the real world would probably get let go very quickly.
I do a lot of these & it's almost always preferable to try save both edges like you do here LA - if possible - it cuts out a lot of mucking about trying to match door opes once you begin rebuilding the bottom. If the entire bottom is rusted, it starts getting hard to get a very tidy fit in the ope - especially when no repair section is available (usual for me) & you have to make the lot from fresh flat sheet. Very helpful video for loads - really boils it down. Again, for those hard first welds, a piece of copper held behind makes it a doddle - no blow-through. Another "Tip" is if you're lap-welding, always try keep the new steel behind the old steel, not vice versa - the old stuff is apt to be weaker regarding not burning through as you weld - the new steel makes for a better surface to bond the old stuff to.
Thanks for the video. One of the things I'd really like to know is, where does one purchase the sheet metal? Is the mild steel sheets at Lowe's going to be good enough or is there a different grade/quality that is needed? And what gauge?
You can get sheet metal from places like Alro Steel (Grayling, MI) or places similar around you. 20 or 22 gauge metal around .035" or .030" is just fine. It's called A1008 Cold Rolled CR Sheet - mild steel sheets at lowes or HD are fine too :)
This stuff is so helpful. It makes all the body work I'm gonna have to do seem so much simpler. QUESTION: What type of primer did you spray on the inner panel after building it back up?
I either use lacquer primer surfacer for large areas that need to be block sanded, primed again, finish sanded and painted. Or for small spot or even inside of a door jamb I'll use some cheap spray bomb primer so I don't have to clean a gun :) BTW - glad you like the videos - have a good weekend :)
Fantastic Videos!!! I have been watching many over the last month and you have encouraged me to try this on the rusty door bottom on my old camper van. I was wondering if there is any downside to making the top lap joint go under the removed portion as opposed to over the existing panel? I have a bit of a contour that will be difficult to match if I go over it. Initial cuts have been made and am pondering my next move. Also seems like any water from my newly developing skills from the top would shed down more like siding. Excited to be developing a new skill!
You can do it either way really. The reason for doing it this way is 1) the seam is upside down on the inside of the panel and can hold no moisture. 2) easier because you don't have to try a fit a patch inside of a smaller hole. Let me know if that makes sense. Glad you like the videos BTW - have a good week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Makes total sense and did consider the backside as a potential for water collection. I am lucky that the interior panel just pops off easy. Will use your oil technique from the other video for water protection after some paint. I have two to do and may try one of each for experience building. Not too fussed. Keep up the awesome content.
@@cjtwman You don't even have to remove the panel. You can squirt the oil in the drain holes or drill a tiny hole like this video - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
that's it for the inside of the door ? brush on paint, seam sealer ? Won't MIchigan salt water wick up in that channel ? I know, I saw the 10 year video on the tailgate, but just wondering about the seam... thanks !!
You can absolutely weld it solid and take more time to do a better job. This is my towing truck so... It has lasted quite long already - here's a follow up video after three years - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html Happy Super Bowl 🏈
I weld ugly with flux core wire sometimes, that's what the grinder is for. I should have bought a gas welder but I do all my welding outside so it would be pretty useless.
What type of a set up do you use for your sandblasting and what kind of media do you use? Maybe you can do a video on your methods. Really appreciate your work on these videos, I always pick up some great tips, thanks.
Good ? I keep a 5 gallon bucket filled with this: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives?cm_vc=IOPDP1 Then use this for blasting: ua-cam.com/video/R88wHEh19Jc/v-deo.html - Happy Super Bowl:)
Thanks for the links and the information, that is a slick and compact sand blaster. My main concern was silicosis, it looks like there isn't any silica sand in that blast media. Thanks again for the quick response.
Hey my friend what kind of filler are you using I live in the South and we use the old bondo that you mix a hardener with I like that white filler it looks much easier to work with and I'm sure it must hold up well or you would not be using it in video of this magnificent work?
This is the filler I've been using but anything inexpensive will work fine - I don't spend anything over $25 for a gallon of filler. autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868 this stuff is right around $20/gal and works just fine - sands easy, works well.
Great video mate, might be time to invest in a auto darkening helmet as will save you loads of time. Do you put weld through primer on the lapped panels to stop future rust?
Yep - mine broke. I replaced the window with the fixed shade type lens. Need to get one though. No weld through primer. I throw some used motor oil in the panel (post paint) - keeps it greasy in there forever - like an old valve cover - never rusts
I do this kind of stuff and these vids remind me of myself! I don't use weld through on this type of repair becaus e I just can't see how it would survive this amount of welding, it is different to using a spot welder.
@@stevefuller1779 This is sort of interesting too - Honda cited a similar concern last year in articulating its own ban on the substance. It said it started to investigate the science of weld-through primer following the opposition of OEMs like FCA and concluded zinc can contaminate the weld pool. www.repairerdrivennews.com/2017/08/22/fca-explains-ban-on-weld-through-primer-other-considerations-for-welds/
Great video. I like the nice simple approach! How did you go about getting the trim off? Were you able to salvage and reapply the same trim? I'm enjoying getting back into this stuff to keep the old buggys going. Fortunately I saved most of my tools. Thanks!
Here's how I remove trim. ua-cam.com/video/7cUwCMxtKvc/v-deo.html Saved the trim - get the old sticky stuff off - thinner helps - re-apply 3m molding tape
You can weld just watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html - I have a couple of others too - I'll do some more on welding too - all you have to do is perfect the spot weld and you're good
Great video. Just a question, not a critique, should you seal up that seam with short strand fiber glass before the bondo to make sure no moisture gets through?
You absolutely can but I never have a problem just using filler because if you look at it form the reverse side it is like a shingle - the water would just drip down to the bottom of the door - rust would start there but you can prevent that by squirting some wd-40 or used motor oil inside (after the repair) - gets it nice and greasy like an old valve cover.
Serious question as I've never welded. Is squeezing your eyes shut (as you did for a brief few spots) enough protection in general? I'm guessing your eyes won't take too much un-protected welding before permanent damage is done?
Well.... I'm not proud of this but I've done it for quite some time. I do use an automatic darkening helmet often though too. It's never done anything to my eyes - I've gotten sort of a sun tan on my face though. Good to get used to wearing a helmet and gloves for sure :)
Was the door bottom or patch pre-bent before installing and welding it? If you can bang it around a bit and get it close I'd leave it and fill it. I'd have to see it though - not sure exactly how bad it is.
It was a complete door bottom that had to be folded on the sides and bottom from LMC truck for a 2003 Chevy extra cab. But the whole panel pickers in like a half an inch. I think I rolled it to tight obviously doing something wrong. It's my first one so far. I'm replacing the whole bottom side of the truck from driver door back. And I've got it full but welded at the top and folded and spot welded on the bottom before I noticed it sucked in. I'm thinking of making a cut below my top weld to so if it releases a bit. I'm not putting a half inch of filler on a new door, that's just not my style lol. Thanks for the help. My dad worked for George Barris Custom Rods back in the day and helped build the Munsters cars and Pink Panther cars and lots others but he is gone now so I need advice from someone else lol. I appreciate you taking the time to answer.
@@robormiston2841 The "sucking in may have come from metal distorting as you welded. When you do long bottoms like that it's good to weld a few spots here and a few spots on the other end not getting one area to hot and "warping the metal" It can also be caused by hammering the edge over and not having the dolly on the correct angle. You need to hold the dolly on an angle so it only supports the very bottom of the lip - not laying flat on the good sheet metal. Not sure if that's clear or not :)
Thanks - glad you liked the video. Mine came from my dad, Matco and my boss. If you want good ones that last forever and do what they are supposed to do order from Matco, Snap- on or Mac. Really all I really ever needed is the one with the pointy end and the chisel end. Maybe Eastwood too.
Lakeside Autobody ok man. I like the Snapon ones but I have mostly Snapon tools because I’m a diesel mechanic. I’ve seen their set and they look really nice. I have my dads 57 Chevy truck that needs a lot of work so I’ve been watching your channel for body work. Thank you again for the great content. You make a guy that has never really done any body work some great confidence. God bless
Curious as to why not use fiberglass reinforced filler for the first coat? Especially over a repair panel where theres pinholes or little voids in the welds/metal. Regular filler will suck up any moisture or oil from the back and wick its way through causing little blisters. Kind of like an extra insurance to use some kitty/gorilla hair first. Nice work though!
You absolutely can if you want - my old boss made us do that. I just never have any problem with moisture issues using just regular filler. For me rust will always begin again at the bottom so I just squirt a little used motor oil in the door and let it creep around in the pinch weld - no rust see this vid: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Well if it works for ya, then keep on truckin' Im probably a good 6 hr drive North East from you. I live in Eastern Ontario. So we get alot of road salt up here. Ive had some bad luck with some rust repairs without using the fiberglass filler. But, im guilty of not treating the backside to some kind of oil...
@@splash5974 Wack it down good too before you fill. Sounds wrong but it allows for a good rigid layer of filler. If you can treat the back even better - nice talking to you.
That's just a common die grinder (mine's a MAC) but you can get them any where - I just take the guard off so I can see - i.e. www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-14-in-professional-mini-die-grinder-64371.html?cid=paid_google|||64371&gclid=CjwKCAjwp-X0BRAFEiwAheRui7Qnr3LHTj2aoEViB4SyDXgv4nLFnb8e70iuj1QA5dS0NPWWsLCnMBoCK88QAvD_BwE The cut off wheels or discs are: www.homedepot.com/p/Forney-3-in-x-1-16-in-x-1-4-in-Metal-Type-1-Cut-Off-Wheel-71840/206439839 or something similar. The only air hammer bit I recommend is a snap-on: shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Rippers/Air-Hammer-Sheet-Metal-Ripper/PHG51B - It stays sharp and never breaks
I doubt you could find any professional body shop in Michigan that strictly use butt welds on patch panels It's just not a quality repair. Here's some information on the topic if you are interested: Lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html * ua-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/v-deo.html * ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper welds & surrounding metal. In the end it’s what works for you though. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: ua-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/v-deo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
In Michigan - if you work in a body shop this is how it's done. It's the most efficient, lasts as long as any other method, etc. You just tap the welds down and fill it. Filler is a good thing if the surface is prepared right. Lots of folks put it over shiny surfaces, holes, rust, unsanded paint, etc. I think that's how it got a bad name.
@@robbyddurham1624 Thanks for your input - I figured they had to use some filler in the factories. Do you know what he used it for - maybe dings and things like that or the sail panel?
@@LakesideAutobody He told me some of it was damage done on the line after the car had been painted. So I'd guess accidents along the line. There was an area where cars with damage was pulled to get reworked. When I toured the plant, I remember some workers asking me if I wanted to grind some welds off where the roof met the 1/4 panel. The were teasing me about the welding material would make you sterile. They had their whole head covered with outside air coming in. I think he said silicon weld, but I've never heard of that. When I talk to my dad later on, I'll get more info.
@@LakesideAutobody he's also talked about the guys pushing out dents and dings with the rods from the inside of the cars. PDR They did that 40 hours a day. You know they had some experience and knew metal pretty well.
I never used to where I worked - wire brushed them to clean them up a bit. I just think the filler grabs the blasted surface real well, cleans them fast and it's easy.
This video is not about replacing a door skin. BTW lots of people can replace panels - that's the only thing you could have kids out of tech school do when they first got hired. After they acquired some skills you could have them work with filler, and do it this way if folks didn't want to pay the $ for a full door skin. The title is: "How to repair a partial door bottom" - not a door skin - it's done like this all the time is a high volume body shop. Remember, what you read and see on TV or Restoration channels is not how it's done in body shops. That stuff is more for a trailer queen - something that's not going to be driven in salt water and used on a daily basis.
No. If there is such a product out there, it's a money making gimmick. Just make sure you grind it nice and clean with a fresh fiber resin disc. 36 grit up to 80 - the filler bites into the scratches. It'll be there forever.
3 reasons not to do it like you are. Reason 1: Shows your not good enough with a welder. Reason 2: it devalues the resale value of an automobile. Reason 3: if you don’t cut out enough of original rust, the rust will creep out from behind it, making moisture blisters which will accelerate more rot. Reason 4: by the time you smear, cheese grate, sand, reapply, re-sand, skim coat , prime to check for imperfections, you could have it ready to shoot. It’s ok for a p.o.s. You don’t care about. But top $$ jobs, it’s not an option.
Really. I bought this car in 1989 for $1500. Painted it in 1992 with these methods. Drove it for 25 years in salty Detroit. Sold it in 2016 for $9000. I think it held up well for a p.o.s :) ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html *** For longevity of this type of repair see: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
For me it is basically free because I have the tools already and have the scrap metal laying around. Filler is 19 dollars/gal. That costed me at most $10 and my time 1/2 day. New door is $133 and $150 delivery - might be able to find it cheaper though. Cannot find a used door in this area that's not rusted. Hope that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody YES! Also, when the top 3/4 of the door is fine, all the interior matches, door jams, everything is already aligned, etc. People keep recommending door swaps, but by the time you line it up, swap the interior, paint the jams, and even the whole door and hope it matches, etc. This type of repair nearly everything is close to perfect, and most times you can make that bottom piece of paintwork match to an unnoticeable degree too. What sounds simple can very easily become complicated and time consuming, and once you do this kind of repair once, it's pretty simple.
So for diy it's worth it I can c it to pay to get it done at a shop maybe not unless u can't find a good door here in Texas labor for body man is not cheap
You know Jerry, I see where people on old Ford truck pages are constantly saying that replacing the door bottoms is all but impossible and I keep directing them to Your videos, not only do You prove it is possible but You make it look so easy to do, keep up with Your videos I can't speak for others but I find them very informative and I learn something from every one of Your videos, Thanks for sharing Your years of experience.
I really appreciate your kind words and support Ed - glad you like the videos. At the shop I worked at we did a lot of rust repair. We were the scrubs of the town and there was an upper crust body shop that got all the nice work :) Funny how things work out - there's a reason for everything I guess. Hope to continue to upload for years to come my friend - thanks for watching ☺
I love this kind of video. All the technical stuff you need to know, plus it leaves you feeling like you can easily do it yourself. The confidence to try is 80% of it. Thanks for these! 👍
Thanks - even if the first time turns out crummy the next one I promise will be better:)
Really like the longer video! Gives you more time to show more steps and walk us through your thought process, great job!
Thanks for the tip - not sure what kind of attention span is out there today.
I have watched a few of your uploads. They all inspire confidence in the hobbyist to have a go. Very clearly laid out and very watchable. After years of deliberation I am about to buy a mig welder and mess around on one of my old rust buckets on wheels and see what happens. Thank you for your efforts!
Please do and fill me in on how it goes - I love to hear the stories. Go for it - you'll be so proud of yourself for it. The more you do it, the easier it gets. You'll make mistakes for sure but even fixing your own mess ups is good practice. Jerry
Thank you so much for your diligence in putting these videos together for us!...You're giving me the the drive and confidence to get back on my plymouth project.
You're welcome - glad you like them. Have a good week and get that project started.
WOW You are an Arteeest! You make it look easy like a violin master...
👍🛠😊
Thanks I'll be re-doing the rockers and door bottoms of my 05 trailblazer next year. My door inners will need a bit of work.
I've a hf 200 multi. and I took some nite school welding.
I've been practicing on 22ga. And will be practicing all winter too.
Thanks for the lessons I'm from Milwaukee. Love the Metal intro's
Thanks Bobrat :)
That was amazing. Liked, subscibed and hit the notification bell. Thank you for taking the time to teach all of us. You make the internet great and I appreciate you.
Thanks for the kind words Tom - glad you liked it. Enjoy the rest of the week 🔥😊
Never seen the tap the weld down technique. That’ll work great especially in hard to grind areas.
The boy and I are just getting into body work and your videos seem to make it easier compared to others.
We just picked up a selection of Stanley cheese graters at Menards on sale.
Yep with this method there is not a rust hole out there that can't be fixed - really.
Oh to have the proper tools! Another great repair Jerry! Thanks!
You're welcome
I’m really enjoying your videos! Most other instruction on this stuff treats it like brain surgery, very intimidating, but seeing how you do this in a real working shop is enlightening. Just get her done. The end result is all that matters! 👍
Absolutely - I want people to realize that "you can do this". Even if it looks like s^$# the first time - I promise the next time it will look better. I believe after years of being scared, it's better to go for it. Thanks, Jerry
Thank you for the video it was very informative to me. As a amateur trying to repair my own cars you answered a lot of my questions. I have one other question why do you butt weld the ends of the panel and lap weld the width of the panel
Good video!
I've been investigating different methods of welding a patch to the car. You can separate opinions and methods mainly to two categories, Butt weld people and lap weld/flange weld people. Some people even glue.
A car painter that I know, has been in business 40 years told me
just like you explained, if you grind a butt weld or lap weld down -> you grind the weld down that you just did! I think what you did holds the patch in the car body/door solid.
Some say that you don't need to use much filler when you do a butt weld. But what difference does it make? An Inch of bondo is too much to use despite the method. The amount can be very similar between the two methods.
The biggest enemy of repaired area is moisture which leads to rust. By butt welding you leave a bigger chance for moisture getting to past the weld seam and caught between the filler and patch -> Bubbles in paint (rust)..
You are absolutely correct in your thinking. One thing I noticed through the years is - don't be afraid to "hit it low and fill it with dough" Honestly, I believe the thicker rigid layer of filler is better and lasts as long as you're going to have the car. Weld the lap welds solid if you're worried about moisture or use glue. I've never seen anyone butt weld patches in a professional body shop - I've worked in four different ones in my career - even spent some time at Maaco. Honestly, a guy that tried to strictly butt weld patches in the real world would probably get let go very quickly.
I do a lot of these & it's almost always preferable to try save both edges like you do here LA - if possible - it cuts out a lot of mucking about trying to match door opes once you begin rebuilding the bottom. If the entire bottom is rusted, it starts getting hard to get a very tidy fit in the ope - especially when no repair section is available (usual for me) & you have to make the lot from fresh flat sheet. Very helpful video for loads - really boils it down. Again, for those hard first welds, a piece of copper held behind makes it a doddle - no blow-through. Another "Tip" is if you're lap-welding, always try keep the new steel behind the old steel, not vice versa - the old stuff is apt to be weaker regarding not burning through as you weld - the new steel makes for a better surface to bond the old stuff to.
Thanks for your input James - I appreciate it. Have a good week my friend :)
I think this gives a good idea to the ordinary Joe bloggs of how much work goes into bodywork.
Nice work brother looking good
Awesome video Sir. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome - glad you liked it.
Professional repair my friend. 👍
Thanks 👍Thomas - have a great night :)
No gloves when welding, you’re tougher than I my friend. Thank you for the vids.
You're welcome - It only hurts when the little hot balls fall inside your boot :)
@@LakesideAutobody or ear, stoppp sizzling.
Can't believe that ur not hitting at least 100k views.. Keep it up! I like your video's altho some more light would be great.
Thanks - sorry about the late reply
First Video I've seen on fixing the doors awesome👍
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask any ?'s
Good instructions
Thanks! 👍😊
very good job 👍🏿
Thanks BE - have a good weekend 🍗🥧😊
good video mate thank you
Gona have a go at mine Merc aclass well explained it's a good job well done mark UK
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video. One of the things I'd really like to know is, where does one purchase the sheet metal? Is the mild steel sheets at Lowe's going to be good enough or is there a different grade/quality that is needed? And what gauge?
You can get sheet metal from places like Alro Steel (Grayling, MI) or places similar around you. 20 or 22 gauge metal around .035" or .030" is just fine. It's called A1008 Cold Rolled CR Sheet - mild steel sheets at lowes or HD are fine too :)
Beautiful job !!
Thank you
This stuff is so helpful. It makes all the body work I'm gonna have to do seem so much simpler. QUESTION: What type of primer did you spray on the inner panel after building it back up?
I either use lacquer primer surfacer for large areas that need to be block sanded, primed again, finish sanded and painted. Or for small spot or even inside of a door jamb I'll use some cheap spray bomb primer so I don't have to clean a gun :) BTW - glad you like the videos - have a good weekend :)
Fantastic Videos!!! I have been watching many over the last month and you have encouraged me to try this on the rusty door bottom on my old camper van. I was wondering if there is any downside to making the top lap joint go under the removed portion as opposed to over the existing panel? I have a bit of a contour that will be difficult to match if I go over it. Initial cuts have been made and am pondering my next move. Also seems like any water from my newly developing skills from the top would shed down more like siding. Excited to be developing a new skill!
You can do it either way really. The reason for doing it this way is 1) the seam is upside down on the inside of the panel and can hold no moisture. 2) easier because you don't have to try a fit a patch inside of a smaller hole. Let me know if that makes sense. Glad you like the videos BTW - have a good week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Makes total sense and did consider the backside as a potential for water collection. I am lucky that the interior panel just pops off easy. Will use your oil technique from the other video for water protection after some paint. I have two to do and may try one of each for experience building. Not too fussed. Keep up the awesome content.
@@cjtwman You don't even have to remove the panel. You can squirt the oil in the drain holes or drill a tiny hole like this video - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
Why not an auto darkening helmet?
Another great vid Jerry
Thanks UPK - Have a good week end - enjoy the playoffs!
Have a good weekend as well
Thank you.
You're welcome Carlisle :)
that's it for the inside of the door ? brush on paint, seam sealer ? Won't MIchigan salt water wick up in that channel ? I know, I saw the 10 year video on the tailgate, but just wondering about the seam... thanks !!
You can absolutely weld it solid and take more time to do a better job. This is my towing truck so... It has lasted quite long already - here's a follow up video after three years - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html Happy Super Bowl 🏈
I weld ugly with flux core wire sometimes, that's what the grinder is for. I should have bought a gas welder but I do all my welding outside so it would be pretty useless.
No one is perfect at welding in auto body repair - too many variables. As long as it is welded you can always fix it up with the grinder.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for responding Jerry.
What type of a set up do you use for your sandblasting and what kind of media do you use? Maybe you can do a video on your methods. Really appreciate your work on these videos, I always pick up some great tips, thanks.
Good ? I keep a 5 gallon bucket filled with this: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives?cm_vc=IOPDP1 Then use this for blasting: ua-cam.com/video/R88wHEh19Jc/v-deo.html - Happy Super Bowl:)
Thanks for the links and the information, that is a slick and compact sand blaster. My main concern was silicosis, it looks like there isn't any silica sand in that blast media. Thanks again for the quick response.
@@paulpollack9262 That's why I use that stuff
Hey my friend what kind of filler are you using I live in the South and we use the old bondo that you mix a hardener with I like that white filler it looks much easier to work with and I'm sure it must hold up well or you would not be using it in video of this magnificent work?
This is the filler I've been using but anything inexpensive will work fine - I don't spend anything over $25 for a gallon of filler. autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868 this stuff is right around $20/gal and works just fine - sands easy, works well.
Evercoat Rage is the best.
Great video mate, might be time to invest in a auto darkening helmet as will save you loads of time. Do you put weld through primer on the lapped panels to stop future rust?
Yep - mine broke. I replaced the window with the fixed shade type lens. Need to get one though. No weld through primer. I throw some used motor oil in the panel (post paint) - keeps it greasy in there forever - like an old valve cover - never rusts
I do this kind of stuff and these vids remind me of myself! I don't use weld through on this type of repair becaus e I just can't see how it would survive this amount of welding, it is different to using a spot welder.
@@stevefuller1779 This is sort of interesting too - Honda cited a similar concern last year in articulating its own ban on the substance. It said it started to investigate the science of weld-through primer following the opposition of OEMs like FCA and concluded zinc can contaminate the weld pool. www.repairerdrivennews.com/2017/08/22/fca-explains-ban-on-weld-through-primer-other-considerations-for-welds/
Great video. I like the nice simple approach! How did you go about getting the trim off? Were you able to salvage and reapply the same trim? I'm enjoying getting back into this stuff to keep the old buggys going. Fortunately I saved most of my tools. Thanks!
Here's how I remove trim. ua-cam.com/video/7cUwCMxtKvc/v-deo.html Saved the trim - get the old sticky stuff off - thinner helps - re-apply 3m molding tape
Very nice
Thanks, have a great weekend :)
Sucks I can't weld but i am learning to do better body work awesome teachings
You can weld just watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html - I have a couple of others too - I'll do some more on welding too - all you have to do is perfect the spot weld and you're good
New to your channel seen this video, talk about coincidence, i have to do the exact same thing on my 1500 also
Those 1500's are great trucks - they run forever - this one has 275,000 on it - 350 Chevy - If you have any ?s feel free to ask anything.
Same here! Just googled door bottom realty and found a 1500 video. Amazing
Great video. Just a question, not a critique, should you seal up that seam with short strand fiber glass before the bondo to make sure no moisture gets through?
Sorry, I see this question has been asked and answered already....
You absolutely can but I never have a problem just using filler because if you look at it form the reverse side it is like a shingle - the water would just drip down to the bottom of the door - rust would start there but you can prevent that by squirting some wd-40 or used motor oil inside (after the repair) - gets it nice and greasy like an old valve cover.
Body men are artists. But I have never seen a single one who could weld worth a dang. Why not learn?
You don't need anything more than this for body work - ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html or this - ua-cam.com/video/hWjIMGFSjFg/v-deo.html
I guess it's OK if your working on an old truck
Serious question as I've never welded. Is squeezing your eyes shut (as you did for a brief few spots) enough protection in general? I'm guessing your eyes won't take too much un-protected welding before permanent damage is done?
Well.... I'm not proud of this but I've done it for quite some time. I do use an automatic darkening helmet often though too. It's never done anything to my eyes - I've gotten sort of a sun tan on my face though. Good to get used to wearing a helmet and gloves for sure :)
how much should a repair like this cost?
It varies greatly from shop to shop but you can expect a pretty steep price - sometimes 500-1000 per side :(
When I folded my bottom over it sucked in the panel now I have a half inch indent on my panel. I think I need to relief cut it it and reweld?
Was the door bottom or patch pre-bent before installing and welding it? If you can bang it around a bit and get it close I'd leave it and fill it. I'd have to see it though - not sure exactly how bad it is.
It was a complete door bottom that had to be folded on the sides and bottom from LMC truck for a 2003 Chevy extra cab. But the whole panel pickers in like a half an inch. I think I rolled it to tight obviously doing something wrong. It's my first one so far. I'm replacing the whole bottom side of the truck from driver door back. And I've got it full but welded at the top and folded and spot welded on the bottom before I noticed it sucked in. I'm thinking of making a cut below my top weld to so if it releases a bit. I'm not putting a half inch of filler on a new door, that's just not my style lol. Thanks for the help. My dad worked for George Barris Custom Rods back in the day and helped build the Munsters cars and Pink Panther cars and lots others but he is gone now so I need advice from someone else lol. I appreciate you taking the time to answer.
Yes it came pre curved
@@robormiston2841 If you send me a picture to my email I can tell you what to do and why it happened. schoolvideolibrary at gmail.com
@@robormiston2841 The "sucking in may have come from metal distorting as you welded. When you do long bottoms like that it's good to weld a few spots here and a few spots on the other end not getting one area to hot and "warping the metal" It can also be caused by hammering the edge over and not having the dolly on the correct angle. You need to hold the dolly on an angle so it only supports the very bottom of the lip - not laying flat on the good sheet metal. Not sure if that's clear or not :)
Know you did it .on turning back
Where would you recommend getting body hammers and tools at? Thanks for the great videos
Thanks - glad you liked the video. Mine came from my dad, Matco and my boss. If you want good ones that last forever and do what they are supposed to do order from Matco, Snap- on or Mac. Really all I really ever needed is the one with the pointy end and the chisel end. Maybe Eastwood too.
Lakeside Autobody ok man. I like the Snapon ones but I have mostly Snapon tools because I’m a diesel mechanic. I’ve seen their set and they look really nice. I have my dads 57 Chevy truck that needs a lot of work so I’ve been watching your channel for body work. Thank you again for the great content. You make a guy that has never really done any body work some great confidence. God bless
@@hddm3 You're welcome and same to you.
What did you do to repair the inner door panel?
This video explains it: ua-cam.com/video/92mr0C62tq0/v-deo.html - hope that helps :)
What kind of welder is this? flux core or gas shielded?
Gas - I've never had real luck with flux
Curious as to why not use fiberglass reinforced filler for the first coat? Especially over a repair panel where theres pinholes or little voids in the welds/metal. Regular filler will suck up any moisture or oil from the back and wick its way through causing little blisters.
Kind of like an extra insurance to use some kitty/gorilla hair first.
Nice work though!
You absolutely can if you want - my old boss made us do that. I just never have any problem with moisture issues using just regular filler. For me rust will always begin again at the bottom so I just squirt a little used motor oil in the door and let it creep around in the pinch weld - no rust see this vid: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody
Well if it works for ya, then keep on truckin'
Im probably a good 6 hr drive North East from you. I live in Eastern Ontario. So we get alot of road salt up here. Ive had some bad luck with some rust repairs without using the fiberglass filler.
But, im guilty of not treating the backside to some kind of oil...
@@splash5974 Wack it down good too before you fill. Sounds wrong but it allows for a good rigid layer of filler. If you can treat the back even better - nice talking to you.
@@LakesideAutobody
You aswell! Take care and keep up the videos!
Can you tell me the name of the cutting disc took you used, and also the cutting hammer tool bit?
That's just a common die grinder (mine's a MAC) but you can get them any where - I just take the guard off so I can see - i.e. www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-14-in-professional-mini-die-grinder-64371.html?cid=paid_google|||64371&gclid=CjwKCAjwp-X0BRAFEiwAheRui7Qnr3LHTj2aoEViB4SyDXgv4nLFnb8e70iuj1QA5dS0NPWWsLCnMBoCK88QAvD_BwE The cut off wheels or discs are: www.homedepot.com/p/Forney-3-in-x-1-16-in-x-1-4-in-Metal-Type-1-Cut-Off-Wheel-71840/206439839 or something similar. The only air hammer bit I recommend is a snap-on: shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Rippers/Air-Hammer-Sheet-Metal-Ripper/PHG51B
- It stays sharp and never breaks
Why did you not butt Weld Instead of lap Weld the top of the patch panel? Was this just quicker?
I doubt you could find any professional body shop in Michigan that strictly use butt welds on patch panels It's just not a quality repair. Here's some information on the topic if you are interested: Lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html *
ua-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/v-deo.html *
ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html
Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper welds & surrounding metal. In the end it’s what works for you though. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: ua-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/v-deo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks!!!
Looks like you need a autoshader lol
How come you didn't use a air stepper tool instead of over lapping ?
In Michigan - if you work in a body shop this is how it's done. It's the most efficient, lasts as long as any other method, etc. You just tap the welds down and fill it. Filler is a good thing if the surface is prepared right. Lots of folks put it over shiny surfaces, holes, rust, unsanded paint, etc. I think that's how it got a bad name.
What if a guy could cut the patch to fit behind, the you wouldn’t need to hammer the welds down?
You can try it. I think it would be hard to fit and hold it in place. It can be done though.
Tack and cut as you go you won’t need any filler.
Home work assignment: Give me 3 good reasons why filler is bad.
@@LakesideAutobody My dad worked for General Motors for 30 years. They used bondo is factory install...
@@robbyddurham1624 Thanks for your input - I figured they had to use some filler in the factories. Do you know what he used it for - maybe dings and things like that or the sail panel?
@@LakesideAutobody He told me some of it was damage done on the line after the car had been painted. So I'd guess accidents along the line. There was an area where cars with damage was pulled to get reworked. When I toured the plant, I remember some workers asking me if I wanted to grind some welds off where the roof met the 1/4 panel. The were teasing me about the welding material would make you sterile. They had their whole head covered with outside air coming in. I think he said silicon weld, but I've never heard of that. When I talk to my dad later on, I'll get more info.
@@LakesideAutobody he's also talked about the guys pushing out dents and dings with the rods from the inside of the cars. PDR They did that 40 hours a day. You know they had some experience and knew metal pretty well.
Why do you sandblast the welds?
I never used to where I worked - wire brushed them to clean them up a bit. I just think the filler grabs the blasted surface real well, cleans them fast and it's easy.
What gauge sheet metal do you use??
,030 - is what it measures with a micrometer but it's right around 21-22 gauge. Sometimes I use scrap body panels like door skins and stuff.
Might want to wear some hearing protection when using those tools. Ask me why, and I won't hear you.
Got it. Thanks Mark :)
Remember good / shop practices.
Protect your eyes.face.lungs and hands.
😊
Absolutely - I try but its hard sometime making vids with the stuff on
This how to repair a door skin if you don’t have the skill set to do it properly,
This video is not about replacing a door skin. BTW lots of people can replace panels - that's the only thing you could have kids out of tech school do when they first got hired. After they acquired some skills you could have them work with filler, and do it this way if folks didn't want to pay the $ for a full door skin. The title is: "How to repair a partial door bottom" - not a door skin - it's done like this all the time is a high volume body shop. Remember, what you read and see on TV or Restoration channels is not how it's done in body shops. That stuff is more for a trailer queen - something that's not going to be driven in salt water and used on a daily basis.
Where you located
Northern Michigan - St Helen.
How much dod this cost the customer?
It depends on the shop but anywhere from 500 to 1000+ - again depends a lot on the shop that does it :)
im no expert but shouldnt u seal the metal before the filler.
No. If there is such a product out there, it's a money making gimmick. Just make sure you grind it nice and clean with a fresh fiber resin disc. 36 grit up to 80 - the filler bites into the scratches. It'll be there forever.
ok thanks a lot
welder cringe, but good video and instruction.
Thanks Lee. What didn't you like about the welder? Not a Miller fan?
Dude.
Get a auto darkening helmet.
Got a dc'd one at Lowe's recently. Under $20.kobalt brand.
........
Thanks for tubeing.
Mine broke but just ordered one from HF. How's the kobalt working. Glad you like the videos :)
Been easier just to order a door from lmc.
172.49 + 79.95 shipping. That's not too bad actually. Some vehicles are not that cheap though. Thanks.
3 reasons not to do it like you are.
Reason 1: Shows your not good enough with a welder.
Reason 2: it devalues the resale value of an automobile.
Reason 3: if you don’t cut out enough of original rust, the rust will creep out from behind it, making moisture blisters which will accelerate more rot.
Reason 4: by the time you smear, cheese grate, sand, reapply, re-sand, skim coat , prime to check for imperfections, you could have it ready to shoot.
It’s ok for a p.o.s. You don’t care about. But top $$ jobs, it’s not an option.
Really. I bought this car in 1989 for $1500. Painted it in 1992 with these methods. Drove it for 25 years in salty Detroit. Sold it in 2016 for $9000. I think it held up well for a p.o.s :) ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
I agree!
so wrong
See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html *** For longevity of this type of repair see: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
How cost effective is it vs buying a used door?
For me it is basically free because I have the tools already and have the scrap metal laying around. Filler is 19 dollars/gal. That costed me at most $10 and my time 1/2 day. New door is $133 and $150 delivery - might be able to find it cheaper though. Cannot find a used door in this area that's not rusted. Hope that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody YES! Also, when the top 3/4 of the door is fine, all the interior matches, door jams, everything is already aligned, etc. People keep recommending door swaps, but by the time you line it up, swap the interior, paint the jams, and even the whole door and hope it matches, etc. This type of repair nearly everything is close to perfect, and most times you can make that bottom piece of paintwork match to an unnoticeable degree too. What sounds simple can very easily become complicated and time consuming, and once you do this kind of repair once, it's pretty simple.
@@michaelburry8332 Absolutely agree!
So for diy it's worth it I can c it to pay to get it done at a shop maybe not unless u can't find a good door here in Texas labor for body man is not cheap