Thank you so much! Best tutorial out there! I pulled the trigger and purchased the kit after watching and just finished installing by myself. It took me about 4-5 hrs, but having another set of hands could have helped a ton! FYI - they have recently updated the kit, specifically, you no longer have to tap the green wire on the liftgate with purple wire. They now have a plugin option for that. I did not realize this and used a positap, which left me short one for the can wires. I also could not reach the red power wire (very hard to reach) and decided to tap the blue 12v wire. I had to scramble to buy something to tap the wire as my local stores did not carry the positaps, which I really like. Thank you!
Pro tip!!! Whenever working on the rear struts, lay a rubber mat or one of your floor mats on the rear of the glass to prevent accidentally hitting and cracking the rear glass.
Thanks for posting this video! I watched several installation videos, and each one of them showed me some parts that others missed. - First, and foremost: Apparently, Hansshow updated their kit, so you need to fish only the wires required for the tailgate push button light and signal to the trunk tailgate. Hooray! I used a building fishing line (all 15m of it), and it worked pretty well, after removing the cover of the connector, so I only had the contacts to feed through. - The connection to the tailgate signals is under the isolation, way back behind the back seats. I first found only the connector under the side part of the seat, but needed to remove 4 covers: - Airbag top back right, - column back right, - rear seat right side, - right side behind the right rear seat Then, 2 pressed-in plastic holders behind the seatbacks to be able to lift the cover and insulation from the cover of the trunk behind the rear seats. Another change to what is shown in this video: You can get the motor wiring in without going through the rear light seals, and without unmounting the bumper. Your have to find your way through the bumper into the void around the maintenance gate shown in this video. I used the fishing tool to get down (on the left side, I started from the bottom, on the right side, I did it from the top). Then, I unscrewed the 10mm screws below the underside of the tail lights, unhooked the 3 snapin plastic loops for the bumper, and used screwdrivers to pull out the bumper far enough to push the fishing tool with the attached plugs and cables through (no unmounting of the plug housings here). After having fed them into the lower bumper area, I used the righthand side light blue gromit's hole to put both power and hall sensor connectors through. Et voila, I am in the trunk with the wires, and no need to drill or anything. The lefthand light blue gromit is perfect to put the foot sensor wire through. I cleaned the maintenance door, filled a few fields with silicone and put a plastic on top of it. Then, I used a tape to mount the sensor onto it - nothing visible on the outside. Attaching the kit to power has been more or less easy after I accepted that I had to remove the panels on the right hand side door soll, besides the dashboard and below the glove compartment. The plus terminal is a 8mm screw with restrainer, so you need to unscrew it. Be careful, as there are many metal surfaces on ground around it - I used some electrical tape on the head of my wrench to prevent shortening anything while I unscrewed things.
MICHGO1 this was a tense 2 days to say the least. When we couldn’t connect to power on day 1, I was just shy of heartbroken. At the end it was more relief than anything!
Thanks for posting. I know its a lot of work to produce the video. This was super interesting to watch. Not sure if I can take this on myself, but if I do, I know where to go to for reference. Thanks again.
Not yet a Tesla owner, but watched the entire thing because I know how the UA-cam algorithm can be a pain and I know you put a ton of effort into editing this video! Keep it up!
Bro - you’re amazing to do this diy project. My wife wanted it but there was no way I could do it. After watching Raymond install it and your vid I might actually think I could. Just another M3!!! Great vid as usual
Dang! This version is amazing. Thoughtful, clean and clear instruction. Drip loop... brilliant!! And this is the config I was thinking too - no foot sweep in the bumper and no close button up front, just keeping it simple. Now I feel it’s easy enough to tackle in 2-3 hours as you’re suggesting. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for the video Michael. Just completed my install and this video was invaluable. By far the most challenging part for me was the power connection. I connected to the red wire/nut that's in a very difficult to reach position. Overall I'm happy with the Tesla Offer kit.
Great video Michael. Exactly what I was looking for. TeslaRaj, TeslaOffer and others did a great job with their videos, but yours, with every single step and great video footage makes it even more DIY'er friendly. This is one thing I really want to add to my car (already done PPF on the whole front end and CeramicPro professionally, lower doors and rockers PPF myself, mudflaps myself, brighter LEDs throughout myself and painted calipers myself). I felt I could DIY, but with your video, I can definitely tackle this. Only thing holding me back is cost, although your 5% does help. Thanks for your continued exceptional work !!
Thanks for posting such a detailed video. I’ve been wanting to order the kit but was uneasy because the manufacturer’s video is somewhat confusing and Teslaraj video lacks some details. Now I feel confident to order my kit. Keep up the great work on your channel!
Excellent DIY guide with very good video and excellent voice over explanation. You dad seems very agile and skillful. Great Dad and Son team!! I am thinking of doing it for my M3 too. Thanks for detailed install video. This is the best I have seen so far.
4:40 don't pull at the knob, the knob needs to stay in the middle, otherwhise the pin gets spreaded out (if the knob is fully in or fully out). So if it's hard to remove, just push the knob a little bit in and then pull at the outer ring with the tool. Then the whole plastic-thing just falls off
GREAT Video! Much appreciate the details. I just completed the install. I did the button for inside the car, but haven’t installed the foot sensor. Just curios, you cannot close the trunk with the app or the monitor in the car? I could’ve sworn I saw it someplace. Did I screw up something during the install? The button on the trunk and the button in the car both work.... thanks so much!
Thanks, I am glad you found this helpful! You should be able to close the trunk from the app, but not the screen in the car, which you wouldn’t need since you did the button inside.
first drive with my model 3 opening the trunk. I can't believe how hard it is to open and close manually, swear they have cement blocks in the trunk lid.
This is definitely the hardest to close trunk of any car that I have owned. Often it stays cracked open and I would re-close it. You do get used to it though and find the magic touch to get it closed right 99% of the time. Congrats on your new Model 3!!!
One thing this needs, is an auto stop feature if someone is in the closing path. I know it won't hurt an adult but should probably stop if it senses something, because it might hurt a toddlers fingers. I'm kind of interested in doing this to my Model 3, but I don't need it. How lazy have we become, that if our hands are full we just can't set the items down then open the trunk? But what's stopping me is it's too expensive. I think Tesla will eventually add this to the new Model 3's because they could do it for less money, not increasing the cars price that much.
I just finished this install on a standard range plus model, just a heads up there isn’t a ground wire behind the passenger taillight. The ground wire is behind the drivers side taillight. I ended up adding an extension to the ground wire from the wire harness.
Hi, thanks for making the tutorial. I really want to do this upgrade for my trunk. Is the old button still there on your car? Does it still work after you have the new button installed ? I know that we don’t need the old button anymore. I just wonder what to do with it after having the new power trunk opener installed.
21:30 you need to take out off that other part two, i did it by myself, and then you can verry easly reach the red bolt, you lose to much time for resaerch that B-plan action.
Thanks! I performed the install without disconnecting from the main power supply, so there is live electric during this install. Always be careful and never touch bare wires.
Hi, Have you installed the foot sensor? I just installed my electric trunk this weekend. My foot sensor is not working as I hope it would do, its not very sensitive to my foot movement. Sometimes I have to move my foot back and fourth several times to make it open.
Sverre Olsen sorry no I didn’t go for the foot sensor. I didn’t want to take off the bumper and figured for my personal use there would probably never be a time I couldn’t pop the trunk from the app.
@@sverre1990 you're welcome! I actually uninstalled it from my car, but want to say at the same time there were absolutely no issues with it. I was having some issues with Tesla denying a completely unrelated warranty claim and it made me nervous that should I have any electrical or 12V power issues that Tesla would point to the power trunk and use it as a means to deny the warranty claim. Funny enough, within a few weeks of pulling the kit, my 12V died without warning. I hate that I took this out though as I feel as though the car really needs this!!
Hi, Have you or anyone else had problems with the 12V outlet in the center console after stalling the Tesla offer tailgate? Mine would not work with the CAN adapter installed.
Hi, I got it installed at Tesla for my model 3. But the power lift doesn't open all the way up like it used to open before when it was manual open. What should I do?
Fantastic DIY video. I feel confident in doing the install but my big concern is Tesla. What does this do to my warranty? If there is anything flaky with anything in the car, are they going to refuse to work in the car or ask that I remove all those connections to wiring harnesses first. In the past I have had remote starters/alarm installed back in the day before manufacturers put connections in harnesses requiring cutting almost every connection. This looks almost easy. Just over concerned with voiding the warranty.
Thanks! Well in a technical sense a manufacturer cannot void your warranty for an aftermarket part unless that part is the root cause of the issue you experience. Of course with that said, should you have issues it could at least present some challenges regardless.
@@michaelrbodner yes, I saw few vidoes , some people run it to the battery , others to the left side where signal wires goes, I have 2020 model 3, I am worrying that my wires will look different than those on vidoe and I will get stuck
The battery is always an option and always going to be there, but I personally don’t like the idea of touching the battery directly. I imagine the wiring is the same, but unfortunately I do not have a 2020 to check with.
Hi, it’s hard to say. This video was made 2 years ago. Tesla may have changed their software to not support this or a wire may have been connected in the wrong place or a wire may have been damaged during installation.
Thanks! I have since traded in a for a new car, but I believe currently the app and screen continue to work just fine without any additional modification. I can’t speak for V11 that just came out though.
Michael, THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! This took most of the mystery out of running the wires up front. Btw, is there a separate extra long wire harness for the second closing push button to run up front? I also noticed you didn’t do the foot sensor.
You’re very welcome! If you look at the installation manual (www.teslaoffer.com/Manual/M3_Power_Liftgate/TESLA%20MODEL%203%20ELECTRIC%20LIFTGATE%20INSTALLATION%20GUIDE%20v1.3.pdf) on page 4 where it shows everything laid out. Look at bundle #4 and the wire with the white connector is the one that connects to the in car button (#12). There is plenty of wire for you and it wouldn’t be hard to run one more wire up to the front, so really just personal preference that I didn’t want a button with a red glowing light. As for the foot sensor I took a pass. There is really never a time that I can’t just open the trunk via the app or press the release above the license plate over swinging my foot around.
Teslatunity Michael, I’ve been working on the installation somewhat piecemeal. I’m somewhat anal when it comes to wire management so I’m doing things at a very methodical pace. I installed the trunk lid wires first. I couldn’t find a flexible wire fish like the one you used. Rather than wait for amazon order I detached the factory harness with all clips intact, then removed all wires from the deck lid. This allowed me to lay the rubber conduit out in a straight line. I made my own wire fish out of a coat hanger. Pushing the straightened wire through the conduit was fairly easy to do. My early kit had the plastic housings on the wires, I de-pinned them. I was able too pull the wires through the conduit without lubricant. Also, after I had removed the interior panel from the deck lid, I figured out the trick to remove the White plastic clips. Removing those and and reinserting them on the panel made the panel reinstall a breeze. Next up was running the wires up front. I don’t like Tapping wires anymore than absolutely necessary. Rather than tap the Blue wire for power. I used the recommended RED wire attach point. To access it, you have to remove the Knee Airbag assembly. It’s 1 plastic fastener to detach the floor air duct. Then you remove the 4 (E-Torx) bolts. You don’t need an actual E-Torx socket. I used a 6 pt 5/16 socket. It fit perfectly over the head of the bolts. With the bolts removed the plastic finisher cover just pops loose from lower dash cover. You just let everything rest on the floor without disconnecting the wires. With that out of the way. Access to the Red wire stud is relatively easy. I chose not to remove the Nut. Instead, I just used a second nut on top of the existing nut to attach the power wire. I ran all the wires to the to the back from the front, making sure I didn’t leave any extra wire. I ran the wires under the driver side trunk floor interior panel rather than up over the top like you did. This allowed plenty of wire to mount the controller above the sub woofer. Thats as far as I gotten so far. Like I said, I’m doing this at a measured pace.
Thanks for the step by step installation instructions for the trunk. Way better than the video that comes with the kit and Tesla raj ‘s video. Only problem is I could not find the wiring to hook back up the drivers floorboard light. Looked numerous times. I think I need to backtrack where the wires are coming from. Any help?
Teslatunity yes I looked and felt for it for about 30 minutes but couldn’t find it. Only way I figured I would be able to find it is to back trace it to the original place . Can you take a picture of the origin of the wire then I should be able to find it
Yes I can not find the drivers footwell wire. Only way I can figure is to backtrack the wire. Can you take a picture where the wire begins on yours so I can find mine. Thanks
Teslatunity - have you or are you going to upgrade to V2 - from Tesla Offer. Why was it again, you did not connect power from TO to M3 12 volt battery?
Hey, I actually removed the kit (not that there was anything wrong with it), so I won’t be upgrading to v2. If you’re curious, basically I was having issues with Tesla denying an unrelated warranty claim and it made my apprehensive that this trunk was an excuse (for Tesla) waiting to happen. I really wish I had it, but I made peace with it. As for the battery, you can connect directly but I read a lot suggesting it’s a bad idea in a Tesla to directly tap the battery despite seeing many people have success with it.
Thanks! I felt like there was never going to be a time where I wouldn’t open the trunk from the app or the button above the license plate so the foot sensor didn’t feel necessary to me.
Thank you for the very detailed video. The entire process looks intimidating. Don’t think I can do it all myself. Do you know if there’s a service to help install this? I live in San Francisco Bay Area.
The inventor of the product was just out there a few weeks ago. I’m not sure, but would check with them via their support on their site. Hopefully they trained a local installer while they were out!
Does the screen release and phone app work seamlessly with the power lift gate installed to open the trunk? Is there any way to close the trunk using the Tesla App or a third party app or the screen in the car
With this kit you can open the trunk with the app, in car screen, and manual release. You can close the trunk with the app, trunk button (you install), interior button (optionally installed but I did not install it). The in-car screen cannot close the trunk.
Great video for DIY owners willing to tackle it. I saw on their website where you can select installation in Seattle or Vancouver for what looks to be a very reasonable price for the less adventurous owners...lol. Maybe I'll include going there to have it done when we decide to take an Alaska cruise and kill 2 birds as they say. Thanks again!
Awesome video. I wanted to upgrade to the S just because of this feature. You’ve saved me a few $$$! I’m curious, though. How long did it take you and your father to finish this upgrade? I noticed you changed shirts so it must have taken at least a weekend.
Thanks!! So the video is edited down to save you time and not bring you down the wrong paths I followed. This took us 7 hours over 2 days, but I am pretty confident if you watch this video a few times and have someone’s help it can take 2-3 hours for sure. Ok so why did it take so long? (1) a lot of moving the camera around and switching from tripod to mini-tripod - it adds up! (2) when we couldn’t access the red wire (12v) as I mentioned in the video, panic set in. We did not yet know about the easy to reach blue wire and actually backed the power wire all the way around the car and over to the passenger footwell. Then we took out the frunk. There is a pass through to go right to the battery from there. Fortunately that was our day 1 end, because I went home and started researching. Mixed opinions on touching the battery directly, but stumbled upon a short video referencing the “blue wire”. I reached out to Tesla Raj who confirmed he also used the blue wire. Day 2 started with reassembling the frunk and running the wire all the way back around the car to the driver’s footwell. My mistakes won’t have to be made by others!!
Is it possible to have the power button on the bottom side of the trunk? (Near the latch) since some of my family member cannot reach the top of the trunk to press the button.
That is potentially possible - somewhere in the interior liner on the rear passenger side. Alternatively the trunk can be closed via the app (with today’s logic in the app) and you can also add a trunk close button in the driver’s footwell area (included).
@@michaelrbodner Actually the fuse wire connector was loose and now it's fine again. Wires coming loose in the connectors has been an issue, so now I'll hot glue the wires in the connectors, so they'll stay in place.
When the trunk is closed you still have a perfect seal with the weather stripping around the glass. One thing to watch out for (with or without this kit) is that you can manually adjust where the trunk sits when closed to ensure that seal. As for the design flaw with opening the trunk, it’s actually worse now that my windows are ceramic coated so the water racing into the trunk. This doesn’t really change that at all.
Why use the power source for Sentry Mode? I wouldn't want to have to turn it on, and filling up my memory card with video as I'm near my car, just to open the trunk. So no button to close the trunk from inside the car?
It’s not that it’s the power source for Sentry Mode, it’s that the blue wire is “switched” power versus “constant” power. As a for instance, if your car is sleeping and Sentry Mode is off, with switched power that means the control unit for the power trunk unit would also be off. In that instance if you pop the trunk it won’t lift because the computer will take a few seconds to wake up. With the red wire (if you can reach it) you have a constant power source so it will work 100% of the time for you. For me the only time Sentry Mode is off is when the car is in my garage so basically I can wake the car from the app and pop the trunk before I get into the garage or remove the charging cord first which will wake the car and then open the trunk. Tesla Raj’s code should also be 5% off, but if it’s coming up with 15 by all means use his code. That’s just something we both asked the vendor to offer our subscribers.
The kit comes with the button to close the trunk inside the car but I could not think of a time where I would load the trunk and subsequently not close it with the button on the trunk so I didn’t bother with it.
Yes it is. The kit from Tesla Offer is the original inventor of the solution. I have heard nothing but good things from the Hanshow kit as well though.
Great video BUT by not using the always on power you will be waking up the car everytime you use the power trunk and you know our cars love to sleep lol. It may not be a big annoyance.
Thanks - generally speaking any time you open the trunk you are most likely waking the car, so I wasn’t too worried but yes if you want the best possible experience in all instances then you definitely want to find a way to get to that red wire!
Do you know any local installers in our California Bay Area or in the Fresno area? Im getting the Hansshow brand auto open/closed frunk, truck w/kick sensor later this week.
@@michaelrbodner I appreciate the help the video was amazing you and your dad's you guys make it look easy on a scale of 1 to 10 how easy is it or I should say 10 being the hardest?!
The 1 to 10 scale probably varies by overall comfort with DIY projects, but personally from a difficulty standpoint I give this an 8 and all of the weight of that 8 is in running the the trunk wires through the rubber conduit between the body and trunk lid. With the proper tools and confidence I do believe this is very achievable though!
I thought running the wire down the plastic tube was the hardest part. Then I Watched the rest of the video. This is not something I would install myself.
Hi Carlos, I'd be glad to help with any tips and pointers I can share. With Covid and social distancing though I won't be able to come down and help with the physical installation.
@@carlospuig9302 I don’t know of anyone in Miami though I’m sure there are some people that have done them. If you want to get someone else to install it I’d recommend Signature Customs in Dania for sure.
One important note is that if Tesla were to change the app to be like the in car dash where the open button is disabled when the trunk is open you would lose that capability
Here in the US a manufacturer cannot void your warranty because of an aftermarket modification unless that modification is found to be the issue of the issue you are placing a warranty claim for
@Teslatunity I saw the FL plate. Do you know a place that could install this in the Ft Lauderdale area? (Not sure where you are but I'd be happy to have you do it if you're close enough)
Ross, I am not sure if they support it, but I would recommend you reach out to Signature Custom Wraps (website is wrapmytesla.com) as the best trusted source in Tesla aftermarket work.
Well don’t hate me, but I removed the kit. I didn’t have any issues with it, but was going through unrelated denial of warranty service with Tesla regarding my front passenger seat. That experience made me nervous to leave such a big/obvious electrical modification in the car. I’m sick over removing it too, because the stock trunk is pretty bad in my opinion and the power option is so nice.
With this kit you can open and close via the app, open on the screen, open with the exterior trunk button, and close with the interior trunk button (you install) and close with the interior driver’s footwell button (you install). There is also a foot sensor option.
I’m a nut for a clean car so throwing the bag in the passenger seat never feels right. Also wouldn’t want it on the floor where people put their shoes.
My assessment: you will not spend half as much effort or time for the life of the car manually opening and closing your trunk as you did installing this solution to a First World problem. Good work though. :)
Can the blue power switched power wire you tapped into under the dash be used as a source of power for utility trailer lights and the Eco-hitch stealth hitch for Model 3 trailer light sensor module (www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119250KIT.html)? E-trailer recommends using unswitched power, but that will power the electronic monitoring device even when the car is not "on", a potential 12v battery drain. On the other hand, I have read on some blogs that Tesla's current monitoring of various circuits will be thrown off if I tap in to the wrong source of switched power. PS, I have already run a wire from the trunk tail light area to the dash using your video. Thank you!!!
I cannot profess to be an expert when it comes to electrical, so I do not want to steer you in the wrong direction and I'm not sure on the power demands. I have heard similar about tapping the battery directly and it being an issue with Tesla monitoring the 12v in a way that is different than other cars, but at the same time I also know at least a handful of people that have tapped the battery for various things without issue.
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Honestly, I don't recommend this kit or any kit for that matter. I think at the end of the day it's a risk to mess with Tesla's electrical system and you're one Tesla update away from the potential of your trunk not opening. It's a shame, because the 2021 model year got the power trunk. I actually sold my car for a 2021 to get that from the factory among other improvements (or so I thought). The car was a dud so I flipped for a 2022 when the used car market was very hot, but at the end of the day I decided to leave Tesla and now drive an Audi E-Tron.
Thank you so much! Best tutorial out there! I pulled the trigger and purchased the kit after watching and just finished installing by myself. It took me about 4-5 hrs, but having another set of hands could have helped a ton! FYI - they have recently updated the kit, specifically, you no longer have to tap the green wire on the liftgate with purple wire. They now have a plugin option for that. I did not realize this and used a positap, which left me short one for the can wires. I also could not reach the red power wire (very hard to reach) and decided to tap the blue 12v wire. I had to scramble to buy something to tap the wire as my local stores did not carry the positaps, which I really like. Thank you!
Pro tip!!!
Whenever working on the rear struts, lay a rubber mat or one of your floor mats on the rear of the glass to prevent accidentally hitting and cracking the rear glass.
Great tip!
Thanks for posting this video!
I watched several installation videos, and each one of them showed me some parts that others missed.
- First, and foremost: Apparently, Hansshow updated their kit, so you need to fish only the wires required for the tailgate push button light and signal to the trunk tailgate. Hooray!
I used a building fishing line (all 15m of it), and it worked pretty well, after removing the cover of the connector, so I only had the contacts to feed through.
- The connection to the tailgate signals is under the isolation, way back behind the back seats. I first found only the connector under the side part of the seat, but needed to remove 4 covers:
- Airbag top back right,
- column back right,
- rear seat right side,
- right side behind the right rear seat
Then, 2 pressed-in plastic holders behind the seatbacks to be able to lift the cover and insulation from the cover of the trunk behind the rear seats.
Another change to what is shown in this video: You can get the motor wiring in without going through the rear light seals, and without unmounting the bumper.
Your have to find your way through the bumper into the void around the maintenance gate shown in this video.
I used the fishing tool to get down (on the left side, I started from the bottom, on the right side, I did it from the top).
Then, I unscrewed the 10mm screws below the underside of the tail lights, unhooked the 3 snapin plastic loops for the bumper, and used screwdrivers to pull out the bumper far enough to push the fishing tool with the attached plugs and cables through (no unmounting of the plug housings here). After having fed them into the lower bumper area, I used the righthand side light blue gromit's hole to put both power and hall sensor connectors through. Et voila, I am in the trunk with the wires, and no need to drill or anything.
The lefthand light blue gromit is perfect to put the foot sensor wire through. I cleaned the maintenance door, filled a few fields with silicone and put a plastic on top of it. Then, I used a tape to mount the sensor onto it - nothing visible on the outside.
Attaching the kit to power has been more or less easy after I accepted that I had to remove the panels on the right hand side door soll, besides the dashboard and below the glove compartment. The plus terminal is a 8mm screw with restrainer, so you need to unscrew it. Be careful, as there are many metal surfaces on ground around it - I used some electrical tape on the head of my wrench to prevent shortening anything while I unscrewed things.
WOW, THAT'S A LOT OF WORK.
LOOKS LIKE I SAW A GLIMMER OF A SMILE THERE.
MICHGO1 this was a tense 2 days to say the least. When we couldn’t connect to power on day 1, I was just shy of heartbroken. At the end it was more relief than anything!
Thanks for posting. I know its a lot of work to produce the video. This was super interesting to watch. Not sure if I can take this on myself, but if I do, I know where to go to for reference. Thanks again.
Not yet a Tesla owner, but watched the entire thing because I know how the UA-cam algorithm can be a pain and I know you put a ton of effort into editing this video! Keep it up!
Thanks!! I spent more time editing the video than I did installation the trunk kit!
Bro - you’re amazing to do this diy project. My wife wanted it but there was no way I could do it. After watching Raymond install it and your vid I might actually think I could. Just another M3!!! Great vid as usual
mortchad - you can do it! It felt like it was beyond my abilities, but I just finished it with no help. Do it!
Dang! This version is amazing. Thoughtful, clean and clear instruction. Drip loop... brilliant!! And this is the config I was thinking too - no foot sweep in the bumper and no close button up front, just keeping it simple. Now I feel it’s easy enough to tackle in 2-3 hours as you’re suggesting. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for the video Michael. Just completed my install and this video was invaluable. By far the most challenging part for me was the power connection. I connected to the red wire/nut that's in a very difficult to reach position. Overall I'm happy with the Tesla Offer kit.
I am glad you found the video so helpful and nicely done getting the power in the best position!!
Very well explained and documented. Thank you. Regards from Switzerland (Tesla MS 75D)
Outstanding tutorial Michael. You made a daunting DIY very doable to even experienced DIYers like myself.
Great video Michael. Exactly what I was looking for. TeslaRaj, TeslaOffer and others did a great job with their videos, but yours, with every single step and great video footage makes it even more DIY'er friendly. This is one thing I really want to add to my car (already done PPF on the whole front end and CeramicPro professionally, lower doors and rockers PPF myself, mudflaps myself, brighter LEDs throughout myself and painted calipers myself). I felt I could DIY, but with your video, I can definitely tackle this. Only thing holding me back is cost, although your 5% does help. Thanks for your continued exceptional work !!
Thanks and I hear you on the cost it’s a pricey mod for sure! I tried to get as big a discount for everyone as possible but 5% was it.
Great video, It's awesome that your dad is always helping you out!
My favorite part of any project is finding an excuse to work on them with him! That’s something we did all the time when I was younger.
Awesome video! Love the way you thank people that helped.
Thanks for posting such a detailed video. I’ve been wanting to order the kit but was uneasy because the manufacturer’s video is somewhat confusing and Teslaraj video lacks some details. Now I feel confident to order my kit. Keep up the great work on your channel!
I am glad you found it helpful!
Michael, you are awesome. Stellar video! Thanks so much for the tutorial.
Nice installation. Liked the wrapping of the controller and soft close motor.
Thanks for taking the time to go through this step by step! I might tackle this in the fall.
Excellent DIY guide with very good video and excellent voice over explanation. You dad seems very agile and skillful. Great Dad and Son team!! I am thinking of doing it for my M3 too. Thanks for detailed install video. This is the best I have seen so far.
Do I have a Tesla? No.
Did I watch the whole thing? Absolutely.
4:40 don't pull at the knob, the knob needs to stay in the middle, otherwhise the pin gets spreaded out (if the knob is fully in or fully out). So if it's hard to remove, just push the knob a little bit in and then pull at the outer ring with the tool. Then the whole plastic-thing just falls off
Great video and maybe I'll do this in 2021 when the weather gets nice. Thanks for the in depth video.
That came out awesome! I know it isn't cheap but it looks well worth it. I'll have to save up for a while to get this!
Great video thanks. Your Dad's great.
Thanks!
Smoooooooth intro 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
GREAT Video! Much appreciate the details. I just completed the install. I did the button for inside the car, but haven’t installed the foot sensor. Just curios, you cannot close the trunk with the app or the monitor in the car? I could’ve sworn I saw it someplace. Did I screw up something during the install? The button on the trunk and the button in the car both work.... thanks so much!
Thanks, I am glad you found this helpful! You should be able to close the trunk from the app, but not the screen in the car, which you wouldn’t need since you did the button inside.
Grea great job!!! Thank you for this video. I will be buying my kit soon!!
first drive with my model 3 opening the trunk. I can't believe how hard it is to open and close manually, swear they have cement blocks in the trunk lid.
This is definitely the hardest to close trunk of any car that I have owned. Often it stays cracked open and I would re-close it. You do get used to it though and find the magic touch to get it closed right 99% of the time. Congrats on your new Model 3!!!
One thing this needs, is an auto stop feature if someone is in the closing path. I know it won't hurt an adult but should probably stop if it senses something, because it might hurt a toddlers fingers. I'm kind of interested in doing this to my Model 3, but I don't need it. How lazy have we become, that if our hands are full we just can't set the items down then open the trunk? But what's stopping me is it's too expensive. I think Tesla will eventually add this to the new Model 3's because they could do it for less money, not increasing the cars price that much.
yes, this is much needed, for kids and dogs too
I just finished this install on a standard range plus model, just a heads up there isn’t a ground wire behind the passenger taillight. The ground wire is behind the drivers side taillight. I ended up adding an extension to the ground wire from the wire harness.
That’s great information, thanks for sharing! That must be because there isn’t a subwoofer on the passenger side, right?
@@michaelrbodner Yea, there is just an empty space there with a black plastic wall for the side of the carpeting to rest against.
Hi, thanks for making the tutorial. I really want to do this upgrade for my trunk.
Is the old button still there on your car? Does it still work after you have the new button installed ? I know that we don’t need the old button anymore. I just wonder what to do with it after having the new power trunk opener installed.
Hi, this video is pretty old now and I have since sold the car. Not sure what you mean regarding old button vs new button.
Do your trunk lights still work when it's opened?
Yes they do - make sure you remembered to plug those lights back in if you disconnected them when you pulled the liner to work the wires.
BIG TNX
21:30 you need to take out off that other part two, i did it by myself, and then you can verry easly reach the red bolt, you lose to much time for resaerch that B-plan action.
Splendid video, thanks a million! Just one question: Any concerns at all about electrocution from touching wires on an electric car?
Thanks! I performed the install without disconnecting from the main power supply, so there is live electric during this install. Always be careful and never touch bare wires.
Hi,
Have you installed the foot sensor?
I just installed my electric trunk this weekend. My foot sensor is not working as I hope it would do, its not very sensitive to my foot movement. Sometimes I have to move my foot back and fourth several times to make it open.
Sverre Olsen sorry no I didn’t go for the foot sensor. I didn’t want to take off the bumper and figured for my personal use there would probably never be a time I couldn’t pop the trunk from the app.
Michael Bodner thanks for the quick reply😊 You’ve had the electric trunk for quite some time, does it still work well without any issues?
@@sverre1990 you're welcome! I actually uninstalled it from my car, but want to say at the same time there were absolutely no issues with it. I was having some issues with Tesla denying a completely unrelated warranty claim and it made me nervous that should I have any electrical or 12V power issues that Tesla would point to the power trunk and use it as a means to deny the warranty claim. Funny enough, within a few weeks of pulling the kit, my 12V died without warning. I hate that I took this out though as I feel as though the car really needs this!!
Hi,
Have you or anyone else had problems with the 12V outlet in the center console after stalling the Tesla offer tailgate?
Mine would not work with the CAN adapter installed.
Great video. Thanks for doing this!
Hi, I got it installed at Tesla for my model 3. But the power lift doesn't open all the way up like it used to open before when it was manual open. What should I do?
I believe the power struts are slightly shorter than the original manual struts. There won’t be a way around that.
Fantastic DIY video. I feel confident in doing the install but my big concern is Tesla. What does this do to my warranty? If there is anything flaky with anything in the car, are they going to refuse to work in the car or ask that I remove all those connections to wiring harnesses first. In the past I have had remote starters/alarm installed back in the day before manufacturers put connections in harnesses requiring cutting almost every connection. This looks almost easy. Just over concerned with voiding the warranty.
Thanks! Well in a technical sense a manufacturer cannot void your warranty for an aftermarket part unless that part is the root cause of the issue you experience. Of course with that said, should you have issues it could at least present some challenges regardless.
Looks interesting. I am just not sure about the power wire , this is what is stopping me from buying the kit. And foot sensor
Is your concern with tapping power for this?
@@michaelrbodner yes, I saw few vidoes , some people run it to the battery , others to the left side where signal wires goes, I have 2020 model 3, I am worrying that my wires will look different than those on vidoe and I will get stuck
The battery is always an option and always going to be there, but I personally don’t like the idea of touching the battery directly. I imagine the wiring is the same, but unfortunately I do not have a 2020 to check with.
Thanks for the detailed video. It was extremely helpful with my install I did today. Much appreciated.
I’m glad to hear that you found it helpful!
Hi.. Thanks for the installation video.. after installing my cabin climate control is not working and shows it needds service error.. any idea why?
Hi, it’s hard to say. This video was made 2 years ago. Tesla may have changed their software to not support this or a wire may have been connected in the wrong place or a wire may have been damaged during installation.
Great video, not sure if this was covered but does this system allow the app and main screen interface to work with no other mods?
Thanks! I have since traded in a for a new car, but I believe currently the app and screen continue to work just fine without any additional modification. I can’t speak for V11 that just came out though.
Hi,
I noticed that your trunk is moving quick in the beginning, so you have standard settings or have you increased the opening force or speed?
Hello, no that’s the default, but note this video is from a while ago now so if the kit has changed with newer versions I wouldn’t be aware.
Michael, THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! This took most of the mystery out of running the wires up front. Btw, is there a separate extra long wire harness for the second closing push button to run up front? I also noticed you didn’t do the foot sensor.
You’re very welcome! If you look at the installation manual (www.teslaoffer.com/Manual/M3_Power_Liftgate/TESLA%20MODEL%203%20ELECTRIC%20LIFTGATE%20INSTALLATION%20GUIDE%20v1.3.pdf) on page 4 where it shows everything laid out. Look at bundle #4 and the wire with the white connector is the one that connects to the in car button (#12). There is plenty of wire for you and it wouldn’t be hard to run one more wire up to the front, so really just personal preference that I didn’t want a button with a red glowing light. As for the foot sensor I took a pass. There is really never a time that I can’t just open the trunk via the app or press the release above the license plate over swinging my foot around.
Teslatunity Michael, I’ve been working on the installation somewhat piecemeal. I’m somewhat anal when it comes to wire management so I’m doing things at a very methodical pace. I installed the trunk lid wires first. I couldn’t find a flexible wire fish like the one you used. Rather than wait for amazon order I detached the factory harness with all clips intact, then removed all wires from the deck lid. This allowed me to lay the rubber conduit out in a straight line. I made my own wire fish out of a coat hanger. Pushing the straightened wire through the conduit was fairly easy to do. My early kit had the plastic housings on the wires, I de-pinned them. I was able too pull the wires through the conduit without lubricant.
Also, after I had removed the interior panel from the deck lid, I figured out the trick to remove the White plastic clips. Removing those and and reinserting them on the panel made the panel reinstall a breeze.
Next up was running the wires up front. I don’t like Tapping wires anymore than absolutely necessary. Rather than tap the Blue wire for power. I used the recommended RED wire attach point. To access it, you have to remove the Knee Airbag assembly.
It’s 1 plastic fastener to detach the floor air duct. Then you remove the 4 (E-Torx) bolts. You don’t need an actual E-Torx socket. I used a 6 pt 5/16 socket. It fit perfectly over the head of the bolts. With the bolts removed the plastic finisher cover just pops loose from lower dash cover. You just let everything rest on the floor without disconnecting the wires. With that out of the way. Access to the Red wire stud is relatively easy. I chose not to remove the Nut. Instead, I just used a second nut on top of the existing nut to attach the power wire.
I ran all the wires to the to the back from the front, making sure I didn’t leave any extra wire. I ran the wires under the driver side trunk floor interior panel rather than up over the top like you did. This allowed plenty of wire to mount the controller above the sub woofer. Thats as far as I gotten so far. Like I said, I’m doing this at a measured pace.
Thanks for the step by step installation instructions for the trunk. Way better than the video that comes with the kit and Tesla raj ‘s video. Only problem is I could not find the wiring to hook back up the drivers floorboard light. Looked numerous times. I think I need to backtrack where the wires are coming from. Any help?
Thanks! Are you taking about the driver’s footwell light?
Teslatunity yes I looked and felt for it for about 30 minutes but couldn’t find it. Only way I figured I would be able to find it is to back trace it to the original place . Can you take a picture of the origin of the wire then I should be able to find it
Yes I can not find the drivers footwell wire. Only way I can figure is to backtrack the wire. Can you take a picture where the wire begins on yours so I can find mine. Thanks
Daniel Shiu try freezing the video at 21:33 and you’ll see right where the wire is coming from!
I did that already and still couldn’t find it
Nice job!
Wow excellent job thank you
Teslatunity - have you or are you going to upgrade to V2 - from Tesla Offer. Why was it again, you did not connect power from TO to M3 12 volt battery?
Hey, I actually removed the kit (not that there was anything wrong with it), so I won’t be upgrading to v2. If you’re curious, basically I was having issues with Tesla denying an unrelated warranty claim and it made my apprehensive that this trunk was an excuse (for Tesla) waiting to happen. I really wish I had it, but I made peace with it. As for the battery, you can connect directly but I read a lot suggesting it’s a bad idea in a Tesla to directly tap the battery despite seeing many people have success with it.
Great instruction video. Why did'nt you ad the footsensor to it?
Thanks! I felt like there was never going to be a time where I wouldn’t open the trunk from the app or the button above the license plate so the foot sensor didn’t feel necessary to me.
I like Tesla
Thank you for the very detailed video. The entire process looks intimidating. Don’t think I can do it all myself.
Do you know if there’s a service to help install this? I live in San Francisco Bay Area.
The inventor of the product was just out there a few weeks ago. I’m not sure, but would check with them via their support on their site. Hopefully they trained a local installer while they were out!
Does the screen release and phone app work seamlessly with the power lift gate installed to open the trunk? Is there any way to close the trunk using the Tesla App or a third party app or the screen in the car
With this kit you can open the trunk with the app, in car screen, and manual release. You can close the trunk with the app, trunk button (you install), interior button (optionally installed but I did not install it). The in-car screen cannot close the trunk.
Great video for DIY owners willing to tackle it. I saw on their website where you can select installation in Seattle or Vancouver for what looks to be a very reasonable price for the less adventurous owners...lol. Maybe I'll include going there to have it done when we decide to take an Alaska cruise and kill 2 birds as they say. Thanks again!
Awesome video. I wanted to upgrade to the S just because of this feature. You’ve saved me a few $$$! I’m curious, though. How long did it take you and your father to finish this upgrade? I noticed you changed shirts so it must have taken at least a weekend.
Thanks!! So the video is edited down to save you time and not bring you down the wrong paths I followed. This took us 7 hours over 2 days, but I am pretty confident if you watch this video a few times and have someone’s help it can take 2-3 hours for sure. Ok so why did it take so long? (1) a lot of moving the camera around and switching from tripod to mini-tripod - it adds up! (2) when we couldn’t access the red wire (12v) as I mentioned in the video, panic set in. We did not yet know about the easy to reach blue wire and actually backed the power wire all the way around the car and over to the passenger footwell. Then we took out the frunk. There is a pass through to go right to the battery from there. Fortunately that was our day 1 end, because I went home and started researching. Mixed opinions on touching the battery directly, but stumbled upon a short video referencing the “blue wire”. I reached out to Tesla Raj who confirmed he also used the blue wire. Day 2 started with reassembling the frunk and running the wire all the way back around the car to the driver’s footwell. My mistakes won’t have to be made by others!!
NOW WE KNOW WHY JAY LENO ALWAYS WEARS DENIM, CONTINUITY.
MICHGO1 100%
Hi, great video! Can we see the status of the trunk in the Tesla App?
Thanks! Yes the app shows status of the trunk and allows for open/close actions.
Is it possible to have the power button on the bottom side of the trunk? (Near the latch) since some of my family member cannot reach the top of the trunk to press the button.
That is potentially possible - somewhere in the interior liner on the rear passenger side. Alternatively the trunk can be closed via the app (with today’s logic in the app) and you can also add a trunk close button in the driver’s footwell area (included).
Did something just happen to the power feed of the blue wire at the latest Christmas update? I'm not getting any 12V anymore and the trunk is dead.
I uninstalled the power trunk (due to unrelated issues) so I can’t confirm. Did you check your connection to make sure it isn’t loose?
@@michaelrbodner Actually the fuse wire connector was loose and now it's fine again. Wires coming loose in the connectors has been an issue, so now I'll hot glue the wires in the connectors, so they'll stay in place.
Glad to hear you got it!!
Are you afraid of using this in the rain? I know the model 3 has had problems with water leaking in to the truck when opening
When the trunk is closed you still have a perfect seal with the weather stripping around the glass. One thing to watch out for (with or without this kit) is that you can manually adjust where the trunk sits when closed to ensure that seal. As for the design flaw with opening the trunk, it’s actually worse now that my windows are ceramic coated so the water racing into the trunk. This doesn’t really change that at all.
Why use the power source for Sentry Mode? I wouldn't want to have to turn it on, and filling up my memory card with video as I'm near my car, just to open the trunk.
So no button to close the trunk from inside the car?
It’s not that it’s the power source for Sentry Mode, it’s that the blue wire is “switched” power versus “constant” power. As a for instance, if your car is sleeping and Sentry Mode is off, with switched power that means the control unit for the power trunk unit would also be off. In that instance if you pop the trunk it won’t lift because the computer will take a few seconds to wake up. With the red wire (if you can reach it) you have a constant power source so it will work 100% of the time for you. For me the only time Sentry Mode is off is when the car is in my garage so basically I can wake the car from the app and pop the trunk before I get into the garage or remove the charging cord first which will wake the car and then open the trunk.
Tesla Raj’s code should also be 5% off, but if it’s coming up with 15 by all means use his code. That’s just something we both asked the vendor to offer our subscribers.
The kit comes with the button to close the trunk inside the car but I could not think of a time where I would load the trunk and subsequently not close it with the button on the trunk so I didn’t bother with it.
@@michaelrbodner my mistake Jaj's is also 5% off.
Is this product different from the Hanshow ?
Yes it is. The kit from Tesla Offer is the original inventor of the solution. I have heard nothing but good things from the Hanshow kit as well though.
Great video BUT by not using the always on power you will be waking up the car everytime you use the power trunk and you know our cars love to sleep lol. It may not be a big annoyance.
Thanks - generally speaking any time you open the trunk you are most likely waking the car, so I wasn’t too worried but yes if you want the best possible experience in all instances then you definitely want to find a way to get to that red wire!
Do you know any local installers in our California Bay Area or in the Fresno area? Im getting the Hansshow brand auto open/closed frunk, truck w/kick sensor later this week.
I’m sorry I wish I could help, but I’m in Florida and not too familiar with California based installers.
@@michaelrbodner I appreciate the help the video was amazing you and your dad's you guys make it look easy on a scale of 1 to 10 how easy is it or I should say 10 being the hardest?!
The 1 to 10 scale probably varies by overall comfort with DIY projects, but personally from a difficulty standpoint I give this an 8 and all of the weight of that 8 is in running the the trunk wires through the rubber conduit between the body and trunk lid. With the proper tools and confidence I do believe this is very achievable though!
I thought running the wire down the plastic tube was the hardest part. Then I Watched the rest of the video. This is not something I would install myself.
Definitely hire a pro if you’re uncomfortable.
What kind of material or finish is that garage floor?
It’s an Epoxy Garage Floor kit. You can check out the details here 👉
ua-cam.com/video/Z6HToyfsCRU/v-deo.html
Hi Michael, I live in Miami and I need install a power trunk in my Tesla , I bought from Tesla offer, I wonder if you can help me. Thanks!!
Hi Carlos, I'd be glad to help with any tips and pointers I can share. With Covid and social distancing though I won't be able to come down and help with the physical installation.
@@michaelrbodner Thank you, I appreciate your help, you don't know if there will be someone in Miami that I can contact?
@@carlospuig9302 I don’t know of anyone in Miami though I’m sure there are some people that have done them. If you want to get someone else to install it I’d recommend Signature Customs in Dania for sure.
@@michaelrbodner Thanks, I think I'll go see them
Great Work, is it possible to open and close the Trunk via App?
Thanks! Yes the trunk can open and close from the Tesla open. To close you just press “open” again.
I found my Christmas present 👍🏻🙂 But my Wife will hate me after doing the Installation 😂
One important note is that if Tesla were to change the app to be like the in car dash where the open button is disabled when the trunk is open you would lose that capability
Does this void or effect the warranty?
Here in the US a manufacturer cannot void your warranty because of an aftermarket modification unless that modification is found to be the issue of the issue you are placing a warranty claim for
I wanted to do this....ow I am not so sure lol
My honest recommendation is to get a new one with the power trunk rather than do this aftermarket upgrade.
@Teslatunity I saw the FL plate. Do you know a place that could install this in the Ft Lauderdale area? (Not sure where you are but I'd be happy to have you do it if you're close enough)
Ross, I am not sure if they support it, but I would recommend you reach out to Signature Custom Wraps (website is wrapmytesla.com) as the best trusted source in Tesla aftermarket work.
@@michaelrbodner Awesome, thank you so much!!
Ross Kirsh you’re welcome and just to follow up, I confirmed they are doing them now!
@@michaelrbodner That's great to hear, I appreciate you checking! Any issues/complaints with this mod so far? Happy overall?
Well don’t hate me, but I removed the kit. I didn’t have any issues with it, but was going through unrelated denial of warranty service with Tesla regarding my front passenger seat. That experience made me nervous to leave such a big/obvious electrical modification in the car. I’m sick over removing it too, because the stock trunk is pretty bad in my opinion and the power option is so nice.
Wanna come to Vegas and do mine
Where are the parts manufactured?
All of these kits available on the market were developed in China
Why in the hell would a Tesla not come with the power lift gate??? That’s like putting a screen door on a submarine, son.
The two most likely reasons are cost savings and simplicity (manufacturing and service).
Can you open and close automatically?
With this kit you can open and close via the app, open on the screen, open with the exterior trunk button, and close with the interior trunk button (you install) and close with the interior driver’s footwell button (you install). There is also a foot sensor option.
@@michaelrbodner Thank you
Any reason why your tiny backpack 🎒 must go in the trunk lol ?
I’m a nut for a clean car so throwing the bag in the passenger seat never feels right. Also wouldn’t want it on the floor where people put their shoes.
My assessment: you will not spend half as much effort or time for the life of the car manually opening and closing your trunk as you did installing this solution to a First World problem.
Good work though. :)
That’s probably accurate 😎
Will never do that to my baby Tesla
I just wish the car came with it from the factory
Can the blue power switched power wire you tapped into under the dash be used as a source of power for utility trailer lights and the Eco-hitch stealth hitch for Model 3 trailer light sensor module (www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119250KIT.html)? E-trailer recommends using unswitched power, but that will power the electronic monitoring device even when the car is not "on", a potential 12v battery drain. On the other hand, I have read on some blogs that Tesla's current monitoring of various circuits will be thrown off if I tap in to the wrong source of switched power. PS, I have already run a wire from the trunk tail light area to the dash using your video. Thank you!!!
I cannot profess to be an expert when it comes to electrical, so I do not want to steer you in the wrong direction and I'm not sure on the power demands. I have heard similar about tapping the battery directly and it being an issue with Tesla monitoring the 12v in a way that is different than other cars, but at the same time I also know at least a handful of people that have tapped the battery for various things without issue.
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TOO MUCH WORK!
No doubt, it’s definitely a lot of work - if you go to a pro with it, this will be done faster than PPF and Ceramic coating though
Looks good @michaelrbodner still recommend this kit? Any issues? Need to get a kit for my 2020 MSP
Honestly, I don't recommend this kit or any kit for that matter. I think at the end of the day it's a risk to mess with Tesla's electrical system and you're one Tesla update away from the potential of your trunk not opening. It's a shame, because the 2021 model year got the power trunk. I actually sold my car for a 2021 to get that from the factory among other improvements (or so I thought). The car was a dud so I flipped for a 2022 when the used car market was very hot, but at the end of the day I decided to leave Tesla and now drive an Audi E-Tron.
@@michaelrbodner Thanks for feedback, may still roll the dice considering not having the feature at all has it's own intrinsic value:)