Tesla Model 3 - Hansshow Power Trunk Liftgate Installation and Review!!!
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2019
- Hansshow sent me a Power Trunk Liftgate to install and review on my Tesla Model 3! I also created a technique that allows you to install the foot sensor without removing the bumper (if you are one of the lucky ones that have a service panel underneath like mine). Let me know in the comments about what you think. I personally love it!
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Video timestamps:
Installation starts at 3:37
Programming the button 51:04
Foot sensor install 51:50
Open/Close demonstration 1:06:10
Height adjustment 1:08:10
Details on cost 1:13:28
If you need any advice during your install, you can reach out to me by dropping me an email at becausetesla@gmail.com, and I'll do my best to assist you in any way that I can.
If you would like to become a professional installer or if you are a UA-camr that is interested in working with Hansshow, please contact William Chan for more details: william@hansshow.com
Hansshow UA-cam channel: / @hansshow-teslaupgrade...
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If you are in need of a trim pry tool kit, you can order one from Amazon: amzn.to/2JeA0hO
If you broke off any of the green clips holding the trunk panel to the car, you can buy replacement clips from Bel-Metric: tinyurl.com/yxtxj9ry
If you want to install the foot sensor, but do not want to splice and solder the wires, I would highly recommend using Posi-Taps. You can buy them from Amazon here: amzn.to/2NdY2e7
Here is another UA-camr explaining how to use the Posi-Taps about a minute and a half into his video: • Using the Posi-Lock, P...
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#Tesla #PowerLiftGate #Model3 #PowerTrunk #Hansshow - Авто та транспорт
Amazing video.. Best installation video by far. i just got my kit in the mail today. Going to attempt the install over the weekend. Thanks again!
Love the video. You explain everything with details. You rock dude!
Thanks for the video, it was just the right amount of description and detail.
Thanks for a thorough, clear video. I use your video to install my frunk and truck lift
Really great video. I know the latest version addressed many of your concerns about the wiring loom but this will be really helpful when I try to do this myself.
absolutely great job, very usefull, I'm ready for the very close black friday
With all due respect, first I'll say that I appreciate your effort to produce your videos, nice quality! But as a person who purchased this system and just completed my own install I have to tenderly say that your install just made me cringe in so many ways. This is a fantastic system and if installed well, has no ill effects on the car. I'm an electronics guy, I crimp and solder my connections and use heat shrink tubing, never electrical tape, it gets old and brittle. Don't tear up your car installing this, use a professional if you are not. Here are some specifics.
1- DON'T chop up the trunk lid rubber wire hose, simply cut the cable (7 conductor) from the top and fish that one thin cable down thru the rubber tube and splice back in the trunk below. Also you can release the tube holder custom zip ties and not cut them, then they can be re-closed. It took me 10 minutes to fish the cable thru with a piece of 14Gage solid copper wire as a pull, use wax based lube and it's a cinch. It looks like it was never touched.
2- I communicated with Hansshow techs along the way and traded ideas and photos, they can help you. I mounted my system on the left side, it's empty, so a better place than on the right, especially if you have a subwoofer. You can actually run the 12V power line down the left and attach to a 12V terminal in the left kick panel at the driver feet, no drilling thru the firewall or connecting directly to the battery. It's a bit tedious but much cleaner.
3- Foot sensor, I pulled my bumper as I also installed a Torklift Central "EcoHitch" stealth tow hitch (for a Kuatt bike rack). not all bumpers have an access panel on the bottom, my 2019 didn't, but I was in there anyway. It wasn't that hard to do and it was now easy to mount the sensor as well as route the sensor and strut motor wires thru unused grommets into the trunk area, instead of thru the tail lights (where the wires are being pinched by sharp metal). Threading the sensor wire under the seal, again, over sharp metal is not a good idea. Remember the sensor is tied right to the 12V supply line, if it shorts it will melt before it blows that 20A fuse. Lastly place the screw heads on the outside and the backing plate on top of the sensor, inside the bumper as it looks better.
4- Do buy some spare plastic clips as they do break, Hansshow plans to include some in future kits.
To wrap up, it's scary to tear open this class of car, but the kit is really well engineered and does work well, without messing with the car's canbus system. Personally I would not do the frunk, just get some more powerful struts for pop open, and a lighter lock spring for easy close/latching (see i1tesla's channel for that), just my opinion here. Also my 2 cents on the fuse they chose, I changed the 20A fuse to a 10A fuse as this system doesn't pull much power, even if you stall the trunk by grabbing it, the 10A fuse won't blow. This is safer choice in the off chance that anything does short out, the 10A should blow before any of these thin wires go up in smoke. According to the video that Hansshow shared with me, these struts have a 50,000 cycle life, this system should last a very long time. If you do get one, you will be thrilled with just how useful it is!
Again, sorry for all the words, but I'm much more OCD than you I believe. I took my time and spent a few hours a day for a couple of days to do it right, but was able to do it all without a helper.
Thanks for the constructive criticism. I watched several videos from different installers before I decided to tackle the job myself, so I used different techniques that seemed the best. I made mistakes, and tried the wax cable lube, etc...ended up editing out hours of footage to save on time. I wish you had made a video of your install, so I could have taken from your good ideas too. None of my videos are "the law" on how it's supposed to be done...it's just how I did them, and people can choose to follow my instructions or make up their own. The good news is that this kit is easily reversible and I can re-route cables later if I choose. I put links in the description for replacement trunk clips and also posi-taps for those that don't want to splice wires for the foot sensor. I agree that the screws for the footswitch would look nicer if the screw head was on the outside, but that's not how it works. The screw diameter easily slides in and out of the holes on the sensor, but not the backing plate so it will clamp down. If I put the screws through the bottom backing plate first, it will not bite into the holes of the sensor to clamp it down. Maybe if I replaced the screws with a bolt/nut setup instead. Anyways, thanks again for sharing!
Because Tesla It's all good. Regarding the foot sensor, try this, screw thru bottom from outside, then set sensor over screw on the inside, then backing plate on top of sensor and tighten, get it? It works.
@@RemE14MZ I totally get it, thanks!
@RemE14MZ Does wiring it to vcleft 12V output cause a delay or a failure to open on the first press when the car is asleep? I'm ok with the foot sensor not working when the car is asleep. I haven't installed mine yet, but intend to either wire it to vcleft like you did or to the DC-DC 12v output under the rear seat.
@@QuintonDolan I haven't noticed any delay, I walk up to the car, kick the sensor and the trunk opens. I'm an electronics guy but don't know the Tesla's internals beyond staying away from orange wiring! I attached a new 6mm locknut onto the extra threads on that 12V stud up in the left kick panel. I wanted to power it down while working on it however, with the battery disconnected and the car powered down from the display, this stud still had 12V present. So I was very careful and insulated my little 10mm wrench when connecting. I'm interested in that under seat connection for general knowledge, where do I find info on that? Lastly, I changed the Hansshow 20A fuse to 10A for safety, the system pulls much less than that, even if you stall the door, no issue. Lastly, using the Tesla "Stats" app, it still reports my phantom drain at 0.3% so no worries on increased battery drain that I can see.
Fantastic from Spain, congratulations!!!
I’ve watched the whole video just to learn a new thing and I don’t even own a Tesla but would love to own one, one day
Great video - really informative and helpful. I've just ordered a powered trunk life for my Model 3 using your discount code - thanks!
Thank you! You’re going to love it!
Very impressive video
Serious amount of work
For me, it was well worth the effort.
Excellent , informative video!! Thanks for the shortcuts, too!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Keep up the good work 💯
Excellent video that will be very useful to me. I am going to optimize some things because I do not want to cut anything and most of all not use tape. The goal is to always improve a concept.
Thanks for the Great Job👍 greetings from Germany
Dankeschön
Really helpful. I have a tow hitch on mine, where I need to remove the service plate when using it. Might end up just dropping the foor censor.
Thx so much for sharing this. You did a real great job.
Thank you so much for the nice comment. Yeah, this mod is still my all time favorite. I use it every day. I'm happy to hear that all of the brand new model 3 are going to get this from the factory. It should have always had it.
Keep growing bud! 2.4k will be 30k and 100k before you know it! Just keep on posting new content.
Thanks man. I appreciate the encouragement.
Thanks for the video. Please all be aware that there are version 3 of the this and installation are completely different of what being shown here!
The new version 3 is available now. It show the status on the screen and also on the app. I ordered mine yesterday because of that and for the Black Friday there is 22% off (cost 427$ with foot sensor)
For those that are doing self-installs, if you watch the Hansshow Install on their UA-cam channel, listen carefully because many of the connectors can be de-pinned, they actually used connector blocks that are made for this purpose, and re-pinning. Once all the connectors are de-pinned, you can fish the wires through the rubber tubing and UP into the trunk lid.
The only wire the installer cuts is the white wire, and uses a butt splice to re-attach.
Thanks for your prompt reply. Just wanted to ensure the foot sensor is secured from unwanted public foot sweeper.
Awesome video. I have just installed the electric Frunk kit and was a challenge since I couldn’t get it to shut and latch and had to drill the brackets holding the hood. Now I am in the process of installing the rear boot kit without the foot switch. My wiring is different from yours and some guess work was needed as some wires were missing a plug. Anyway great work and video. Looking forward to more of your channel. Regards from Rotterdam The Netherlands.
How old is your car? We’re the power struts too long and the bracket needed extra adjustment to be able to accomodate the longer strut when closed?
Quinton Dolan My Tesla model 3 was delivered in June 2019. The power struts were too long by 5mm or so. But I managed. You can see the short videos on my you tube channel. I got in touch with Hansshow and I am still waiting for a reply.
joaocoupe I contacted them too. You are the first person I have seen to have worked around the issue. Would love to know exactly what you did. I replied to your frunk video.
Félicitations 👌 pour ce montage 👍🤝😉
Merci beaucoup!
Thanks for the video! You may want to observe the wear and tear to the trunk weather strip over time because these struts are scratching the weather strip when opening/closing the trunk.
Thanks for the heads up.
The cable through the right hole is the perfect way to avoid warranty from Tesla in case of damage for water leakage on the sound amplifier located exactly underneath. This what happened to me after almost two years when I installed this system watching all videos I found in youtube. There is a better way to route that power cable but surely not through the hole of the tailight.
30 mins in, a pry tool and electrical tape are NOT the only tools needed lol. Excellent video so far, though! Alot more involved than it originally appeared!
You’re right, you’ll need a socket set, a T45 bit, and a drill.
@@BecauseTesla No worries, that was quite an Awesome job, man! I'm just hating from Michigan cause I want one lol.
Channels like yours, especially in colder climates and the Midwest push me closer to the reality, so thank you for the useful content (the off menu performance minus Tesla changed my perspective on which one to buy)!
@@BecauseTesla I did have a question, does the proximity sensor work without your phone nearby? Or does the activation require your phone's authentication as well?
Peter C the only requirement is that the doors are unlocked. It doesn’t matter if it’s unlocked via phone or key card or FOB. Of course phone or FOB is best so it will automatically unlock when you approach the car.
Great video. The wire through the tail light spot looked to be against the sharp metal edge. Might have been just the angle. May want to watch that.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial.
I could not tell for sure whether the cable that you routed up under the rear seal (and avoided removing the bumper) was behind trim when it continued to the right after it emerged from under the seal. Is it hidden/protected under trim, or it is exposed in the open trunk space? It would probably be covered with your trunk insert but what about my case where I opt not to have an insert?
Very nice! Now the other feature which I wish the Model 3 had is an air suspension
Rumor has it...the next version of Model 3 will have air suspension. electrek.co/2020/02/10/tesla-leaks-air-suspension-model-3/
IMPORTANT !!!!!
Most uploads like this one is extremely good at showing how to disassemble bits and pieces... but be aware that most of the UA-camrs does not have experience with stuff like routing cables and securing them.
In the Hansshow manual it CLEARLY states that is is forbidden to pass the strut cables through the rear lights. Cable gets all squished and it WILL slowly get cut but that sharp opening edge as the car moves along (thousands of small vibrations). And drop tray or not you have still created an opening into the cabin that should be there.
Strutcables should be routed further down and into the rear bumber (large openings far left and right. Down on the rear side of the bottom boot compartment there are 2 blueish rubberseals on each side (one small and one big). Cut the middle of the small blue seal to fit one strutcable and the other to fit both strut- and footsensorcable (if you bought that). Make sure the cables does not jump around in the rear bumber. When you are satisfied with the cable routing then add a little silikoneglue (or whatever) to close whatever opening there might be between blue seals and cables.
THAT IS HOW IT'S DONE - ask Hansshow and they will tell you!
I received the Trunk kit from Hansshow in June 2020 and is is now installed.
READING THE MANUAL FIRST and just ask Hansshow if you are in doubt (I just called them via WhatsApp).
I have seen many different videos and most people put the cable through the taillight hole => BAD IDEA!
***
Also why work your way to the frunk like that? Hansshow manual clearly shows there is a +12V up the right under the glovebox. It's a 10mm nut so there is no "tapping" into wires. No reason to create yet another chance og leaking.
Hansshow changes their manual every couple of months. The method I used was taken from the Hansshow manual at the time of this video last year. A lot has changed since then.
Because Tesla ... and the assembly manual is still not good!
At least they were good at picking up the phone via WhatsApp.
I asked them about the 12V+ under the backseat which I was told sometimes “go to sleep”.
Молодец. Хорошее видео полное и понятное
I have completed the install of the Hansshow Power Trunk on my model 3 including the foot sensor using your metod of mounting it on the "access panel" - works great, but i do have one issue. I seems that once the car is locked and in sleep mode, trunk will no longer open. The foot sensor and the trunk release button do not work until the car is unlocked .. do you have this issue? Just wondering if i have something wired wrong.. but i dont think so!
It’s not a “service panel” the EU has a Tow Hitch option, all the connections including power would be located under that access panel.
How much for a professional to install? Also at 19:29 I’d also add a piece of molding between the metal and the cable coming in from the tail light. Maybe a thin piece of plastic? I’m know it’s tight but I’m OCD. Over time the vibration from driving will cut into the cable.
Hello! It’s David from Spain.
Firstly let me tell you that you’ve made a great video.
I realized that when the trunk is about to close, at very end, the doors closes a pretty fast, it seems to that the hydraulic are unable to hold the door and it falls, do you know what i mean? Could I set a lower speed at this point?
Thanks in advance,
David
David Tesla lover hola ! Sí puedes. Tienes cuatro modos para elegir y que cierre con más o menos dureza. Mira el video de Frugal Tesla Guy, él lo explica muy bien.
Sergio Paños gracias !!!!
Great video.. Quick question don't you think lift cable will get damaged behind the taillight connector ? It looks pretty tight
It is tight, but it doesn't appear to be wearing through the shielding. This is the location that the manufacturer originally suggested. There may be different ways of doing this now.
Hey man, great video! It helped me as I was installing mine. I did have one problem though. For the life of me I could not get that speaker wire out (in the passenger footwell area) and the actual wires came out of the pins. Oops! Is there an easy way to fix that?! Thanks for any help you can provide. I greatly appreciate it!
My best advice would be to find a pin out diagram or close up picture of the harness to see where the wires go, and watch UA-cam videos on repinning connectors.
So can you comment on the CAN Bus connection? The module has a can bus connection, but for us folks who have a pre 2019 car it appears as if the can bus isnt used. What does your on screen open close experience look like? Do you get the flashing open button?
My car is a 2019, and it is NOT connected to the CAN bus. I think the newer versions of this kit are.
Hello, nice work. Is it necessary to fix the vacuuming traction motor? Will it be enough to leave it behind a plastic cover?
It will be enough to leave it behind a plastic cover.
Awesome video with just the right amount of detail to do the job. I’ll definitely be installing this kit when I get my Model 3. Here in Australia, the Model 3 has only been available since September this year, but is already proving to be very popular. One important question though - do you know how the installation of this kit will affect the Tesla warranty?
It should not impact the Tesla warranty. You are not cutting into any factory wires, and everything is reversible.
@@BecauseTesla Everything is reversible except for two holes drilled in two panels :)
@@SwissTeslaFan those panels are replaceable via my eBay account ;)
hey can someone help me? i have the problem that sometimes the trunk won't open. But when I but the car in drive and park mode without driving the car it will open again. I have version 4.
With the strut cables going thru the opening for the tail lights, does this allow for rain water to seep into the trunk coming down the channels? It seems like the tail light assemblies won't be seated properly and the strut cables will lead water into the opening. Or is there another location where those strut cables can enter the trunk?
If you look closely at how I ran the cables, I formed a "drip loop" by creating a loop that hangs down beneath the holes so any water that runs down the cable will travel past the hole. Even if there was another hole back there to run the cable through, you would still have the same problem of having water enter there. The only way around that would be to make a grommet to run the cable through so it is watertight. I am not aware of any other hole back there, and I did not want to drill into the body.
13:55 steel wool & touch up Paint 🎨 that rust!
My Audi A3 sportback had a full hatchback lid with no power. I had no problem opening or closing it for 12 years (About 1 second in either direction). Why would the M3's relatively tiny trunk lid need a power option?
It's not needed, but it is a luxury to have it. My previous car, BMW X3, had a power lift gate and I guess it spoiled me. I loved using it, and to be honest, this mod on my Tesla is probably my favorite to date. You don't realize that you want and need it until you have it. It would be hard going back to manually opening and closing it. Just my personal opinion.
Quick question so, almost done w/ the install. The cable that light plug I've connected it, but the 2 connectors that are remaining do i just plug that into the bulbs inside the trunk? Are the factory plugs no longer required for the lights?
Correct, the factory plugs are no longer used. Just tuck them away inside somewhere.
Thx!!!
I am curious how much, if any, this product impacts battery usage. The normal parked Tesla can drain 1% a day, do these pull a noticable amount?
relativeus so far I haven’t noticed any additional drain on the battery.
Great job @Because Tesla!
I bought both kids and installed the Frunk. Not too bad with a few adjustments like cutting some of the cabling shorter, and reconnecting w/ crimp for a cleaner install.
Planning to do the Trunk next and luckily the new kits have the cables cut so no big plugs to run through the side tube. I got some solder heat shrink butt connectors to make it nice and neat. I strongly recommend them.
Finally, there is the best source of high-amperage 12v in the car right under the rear sets on the right side, by the large master contactor (don’t ouch that one) No need to run to front of car or drill through the “firewall”.
2 questions:
1 - Why is the Trunk “dropping” at the end instead of soft closing? Concerned about that.
2 - Why is there an LED lights splitter cable? Why mess with the Trunk lights?
I think the trunk “dropping” is because I have it set to the fastest speed. *edit - I just tested it on slow speed and it still drops. It’s less noticeable on faster speeds. Not a deal breaker for me though. I love this kit! The lights wired in this way is one of the ways the system tricks the car to know when the trunk is opened or closed. If the trunk light is on, the door is obviously open.
Is it possible to unpin the connectors so that the wires could easily be pulled through the rubber tube into the liftgate?
Possible? Yes! If you have any experience unpinning connectors and repinning them, it will be easy but very time consuming. If you do this, I would recommend that you take pictures of the pin out orientation first so you know where they go. Other UA-cam channels for electronics go over this.
@@BecauseTesla The kit from Teslaoffer lets you pin the connectors yourself. See ua-cam.com/video/UsZQrj4-4Xo/v-deo.html Would be great if Hansshow offers its kit with the connectors unpinned. Would make the install much easier...
How would this work if I get the frunk kit do I connect to the battery even though the trunk is connected
Yes, you can connect multiple items to the battery. It’s like with car stereos you connect multiple amps to a battery. The trunk and frunk kit work independently of each other because they are not connecting to the can-bus. It’s just intercepting the signal through the factory connectors. It’s actually a pretty slick design.
Because Tesla can you close the frunk from the screen as well
I don’t have a frunk kit to test this yet, but if it’s designed like the trunk, it should work.
On the Frunk Kit which I just installed, you can open from the center touchscreen but cannot close from same spot due to Tesla not having coded that. You can close with emergency release button in the Frunk, Tesla App or the Stats App/similar.
I actually wish there way a way to tell the Trunk is open without the CANbus since you may accidentally open it remotely and not be notified.
Good job man.. what part of the burbs are you in? i'm in Rockford
I'm in Chicago city limits..Southside!
can the power trunk liftgate be activated by foot even if the model 3 is locked??? if so, then anyone passing by and sweep their foot to open the trunk??
When you approach the car with your Bluetooth paired phone, it unlocks. Then you can use the foot sensor. It doesn’t work if the car is locked.
I'm in St Louis area, what installers are doing this?
You’ll need to contact Hansshow for them to locate an installer nearby.
Great video are there any installers in Chicago?
You'll need to contact Hansshow for a list of installers. I'm in Chicago and willing to help out if you get stuck.
@@BecauseTesla Thanks
Does it matter whether the vacuuming motor is on the right or on the left?
Every instruction manual says to put it on the right side. The left side already has the charge port infrastructure, so I wouldn't want to run other wires in that area. If you want to install it on the left side, you can, just move it down - out of the way. The power wire usually runs down the right side of the car to either the power disconnect under the rear seat, or up through the firewall to the 12volt battery (like I did).
@@BecauseTesla I made an electric tailgate application for a different brand. I fixed the vacuuming motor on the left side and the system works smoothly. Initially, there was a closing problem due to the lack of a new fastening screw. I fixed it by installing a thinner screw. Your video was very helpful to check the processes I did. Thank you very much for the feedback 🙏
is this the same kit used for the model X Frunk
Not the same, but we have developed Model X frunk.
ua-cam.com/video/c-kRuhldpPk/v-deo.html
Same company, different kit. I put a link to their website in the description to show all of their kits.
Can i install in regular car or to buy different kit ???
It would require a different kit. Reach out to Hansshow to see if they make a kit for your car.
@@BecauseTesla Thank you
Who is the installer in Toronto , Canada? I don’t want to take this on, but see the absolute value in it!
You will need to contact Hansshow. They have a list of all the installers around the world.
Wow that install looked a bit scary to me. I really wish Hansshow could find ways to make the install simpler.
Don’t let fear hold you back. I didn’t know how to do this either...until I did it. If the work involved doesn’t interest you, reach out to Hansshow to see if they have found an installer in your area.
@@BecauseTesla Thanks for the encouragement. I'll think about it because I must say the end result is pretty amazing. Also what do you think of the quality of the components? Do you plan to also do the frunk ?
@@SwissTeslaFan The components are really good as many of the pieces were sourced from BMWs parts bin. If Hansshow wants to sponsor another video for me to install a power Frunk, I will be more than happy to do so ;)
@@BecauseTesla Thanks. Btw I looked at the video on Hansshow's site and they seem to route the power cable through the side panel and don't seem to have to drill through the firewall? Also, I was wondering if there was no power coming from the battery to the amp for the subwoofer instead of going all the way back to the battery.
@@SwissTeslaFan I tried the side panel first, and couldn't get it to work for some reason. The firewall grommet is actually easier and very simple to drill through. It's just a thin rubber piece that you're poking through. Really no big deal. In regards to tapping into power somewhere else in the back, it could be done, but now you're drawing more power on that circuit. Running a new wire to the battery creates a new independent circuit. The point of the kit though is to not splice or cut into any of the factory wires. The only wires that I cut and spliced into are new wires that came with the kit. If you look at the links in my description, I even added links for posi-taps so you don't have to cut or splice.
Hansshow auto trunk 15% discount code is sstesla
Or you can take 20% off with coupon code becausetesla ☺️
Why can't they just have it as optional so that we can upgrade 😭
Thanks for a great video! Taking into account the video and also REME14MZ's comments would I still channel the wires down on the drivers side on a RHD model in the UK?
Mike Radcliffe you can run the wires down either side.
bruh, use a t-tap connector
Didn’t have any on hand, but if you read the description under the video I provide links for others to use posi taps to make it easier.
68k for the basic model 3 in Australia......FFS..
Ouch!
28:54 No way to make any cuts in my new Tesla !!!
Video is outdated. New kit wires are all different.
****BEWARE****: If you're going to install power liftgates to your vehicle, PLEASE make sure it's not from "autoeez" ("eez" is deliberately misspelled due to utoob censorship), or any other CHIN3S3-A-KRAP manufacturers. Just went through nightmare with DANGEROUS malfunctioning "autoeez" liftgate system installed by dealer before I bought vehicle. Short story: dealer had system removed and replaced by manual OEM equipment.
500 bugs for all this mess, just so you don't have to lightly poke the trunk lid to open it. I don't see any point in it. But that's just my opinion. :)
What a rat's nest of wires. For such a small feature I honestly wouldn't bother.
It’s definitely not for everyone, but for me it was a HUGE feature that I used all the time in my previous car. I’m so happy that I did this!
Terrible job, just terrible, all the usage of electrical tape, the location of the parts, how the cable is being pressured by the tail light connector and will be cut from the metal of the body, ouch.
Thanks for the encouraging words. LOL. I followed the directions from the manufacturer. By the way the cable through the tail light is not pinched or at an angle where it would rub. It fits fine, and better than drilling through the car to make a new route.