I transfer my patterns that way but I use regular acetone that nail techs use to take nail polish off with. I'm not sure what kind of thinner that is but it seems to work very well. Regular acetone works but not quite that well. Anyway, this is a great video. Very helpful for my next project! Thank you for sharing!
I use a product called cellulose thinners which is also acetone based. Bit more industrial than regular acetone although that still works well. Glad you found the video useful and thanks for the lovely comment
Great work! I love it. You are a true artisan. Getting into woodwork myself...albeit at 52. I am about to try and make an epoxy resin river table. A friend of mine thought a family crest or some sort of design would be nice with it, could be even some sort of wall decoration. Hmmm...wood carving...your video...epoxy resin furniture...synergy? Anyways...best to you Jonathon, your video is in my likes and has me thinking...
Thank you John! My advice would be go for it! Carving takes a luttle practice but once you get the technique its pretty easy and very satisfying to do. There's a guy on one of my Facebook pages who is doing the resin and sign combination with some nice results. If you look up free hand routing you should find loads of examples. Really appreciate your comments and thanks for watching
Hi there, this transfer method works with any lazer printed image, just use normal printer paper and The liquid must be cellulose thinners or acetone though. works better with light woods rather than dark ones though
Hi there, you can use a trim or plunge router for this, I do recommend a 1/4 inch router, bit easier to control! as for the base plate, I made my own, you don't need to do the same dimensions that I use, whatever you have will work. just make a large plate with some handles on it and it will improve your control considerable! thanks for watching and here is the link ua-cam.com/video/fFQPVxzSyIk/v-deo.html
I was fuzzing up the wood when I used spruce and douglas fir, so a friend suggested I use a down cut bit - all of yours are up cut - any recommendaitons to stop the fuzzy top edge?
the fzzy top edge should be to much pf a problem, is it on the surface your having the issue or the side of the text? if I get fuzzies on the surface, I generally do a light burn and then sand it off. the deeper you make your letters, the more room you have for clean up. thats why I use the up cut bits, they give me a cleaner background which is much harder to sand
really sorry for taking so long to reply! didn't see your comment /question. the first bit was indeed a spiral upcut, 1.5mm. I haven't made signs in maple but I have used oak, mango and Zebrano, all very hard woods. same process, sometimes you just have to carve a little more shallowly depending on the wood hardness
Do you do these for people and sell them please comment back I got to in mind that I would love to have please comment back and how pricey are they Or does that depend on the design please let me know thank you very much
Hi Martin, yes I make wooden plaques and sculptures for commission, something like this one would be around £50, but it does depend on the design, material, carving complexity, lots of factors. Your best bet starting off is to give yourself a base line price, know how long it would take and what your material cost is. Then you can breaknit down to an hourly wage if you want or a flat commission charge of say £100 and then add on any new or complicated designs you need to do. If you want to see more of my work, here's a link to my Instagram page instagram.com/p/B18zx-wp2QH/?igshid=1jkmdaxkldgdd
@@markakerman3715 thank you very much, if you have more questions, feel free to ask or check out another channel called olddave100. Eric rhouten answers pretty much any question about router carving
Hi Blair, I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting bit. the size of the hole is dictated by the screw holes in the bottom. what you can do is turn the router over, check where the mounting screws go. make two marks inside of those two screw holes, giving maybe 5mm of clearance. then I drew a rectangle on the outside of the housing, making sure I wasn't going to cut anything important. I clamped the router base down and cut it out. I only really recommend this with the metal bases, I would be hesitant to do it on a plastic one. there was a video on it, I will try and find the link and share it with you. works really well though, lets light in and the wood chips out
here is a video from the chanel "old dave 100" they have literaly 100s of how-to videos on free hand routing. this link is a way to modify the router base. if you don't have a hole saw, you can just use a hacksaw or jigsaw. hope this helps ua-cam.com/video/kZLh3FFUJ78/v-deo.html
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thanks for the quick response. I had seen the youtube on the old dave 100 channel, but your job looked much neater. I am hesitant to do it because I don't want to screw up an expensive piece of equipment. Maybe I will give it a try. Thanks again.
@@stephannezsn best place for you would be amazon. I get the 1/4 to 1/8th collet reducers and use the 1/8th shank bits. www.amazon.com/HQMaster-Carbide-Router-Acrylic-Hardwood/dp/B010NI39WO
The paper is just standard printer paper. You need to use cellulose or lacquer thinners to transfer the image and I just use a soup spoon to burnish or rub the image over. I have several more videos on the technique on the channel. Thanks for watching!
Hi Bruce, the two different fonts are "free style script" for for the "welcome to" and times new Roman for the "storybrook". You should be able to.find them and hundreds more on a site called Dafont.com. hope that helps!
Something wrong with using a CNC router? You are using a printer to print it out, why not do the same on a CNC program and hit start directly onto the wood
This Is more for people who want a more hands on experience and potentially can't afford an expensive cnc set up. I find this method to be very versatile, doesn't take up much room and can achieve much better results than alot of the lower cost cncs. As for printing, that's just easier for me to layout and design something immediately for clients, there are quite a few people who do the text free hand with excellent results. Different ways for different people. I often just use a mallet and gouges, also gives me the result I want although I still print it🙂
can you do the same transfer process with inkjet or just laser? I know you can print on freezer paper but i was curious if you could jus tprint and then do this transfer...? Thanks
Hi Scott, it has to be a laser printer. Doesn't work with inkjet. 8nhave seen the freezer paper process but it looks a bit to fiddly to me and hard to do larger images where you have to join the papers up
You can use a inkjet and do the modge podge technique. You spread the modge podge down and put the image on it, wait 24 hours for it.to.dry and then use water to.remove the paper. The image stays. Just to time consuming I thunk
Hi Chris, I use a free download program called inkscape. Allows me to manipulate text, add in s8gn shapes etc. I have a few videos on here on how to design with it
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thank you. Another Q, what types of Printers compatible for t-shirt heat press process. I have an Epson XP 200 and HP Deskjet F2120. Will they work. Thanks.
@@3588only hi Ralph, just so I understand your question, your asking about the transfer paper that you can iron on to t-shirts? The inkjet printers that you have will both work for that process but I found that using that method on wood had mixed results. Yes it transfers the image but then the router base can damage it and it can leave a sticky residue that adheres to the router as well. So not my favorite process. You might be able to do the transfer and then seal the image with a cheap varnish before routing
😁 hi Aaron, its a process using a lazer printer and cellulose thinners. I have several other videos that show exactly how to do it and what materials you need.
Did you sand the little spaces inside the “B” and the “R”, or was using a small chisel sufficient? Thank you for a very interesting and educational video.
Hi Sue, yes I used the chisels to get in between the letters for the final finish, its a small space so I used my smallest more as a scrapper to get the worst of it
I generally do two or three passes, going deeper each time to a depth of 3/8" or about 8mm. Pine tends to chip if I try and go to deep to fast. Also I get a cleaner finish with multiple passes. Takes a little longer but gives good results
Hi richard, it depends on how rough the background us inside the letters. You can use small spiral upcut bits to clean those tight spots. If you dont have them, diamond dremel bits work or even sanding pens. To clean up the letters themselves, i sometimes use 3m radial radial bristle discs. You can get the 1 inch diameter discs that are great for small small spaces. Hope that helps!
GREAT VIDEO,. CHISEL WORK IS IMPRESSIVE; SPOT ON !
Thank you very much!
I transfer my patterns that way but I use regular acetone that nail techs use to take nail polish off with. I'm not sure what kind of thinner that is but it seems to work very well. Regular acetone works but not quite that well. Anyway, this is a great video. Very helpful for my next project! Thank you for sharing!
I use a product called cellulose thinners which is also acetone based. Bit more industrial than regular acetone although that still works well. Glad you found the video useful and thanks for the lovely comment
came out amazing, beautiful sign, thanx 4 demo n sharing, God Bless
Thank you!
Johnathon. Great video! I've been traceing my patterns and this is a great process! It works perfect and saves time! Thanks!
Very happy I could help!
Hey Johnathon - thanks for the well thought out, well executed, great tutorial on making raised letters on wood via router. Can't wait to try it out.
Your welcome, thank you for the great message!
Great work! I love it. You are a true artisan. Getting into woodwork myself...albeit at 52. I am about to try and make an epoxy resin river table. A friend of mine thought a family crest or some sort of design would be nice with it, could be even some sort of wall decoration. Hmmm...wood carving...your video...epoxy resin furniture...synergy? Anyways...best to you Jonathon, your video is in my likes and has me thinking...
Thank you John! My advice would be go for it! Carving takes a luttle practice but once you get the technique its pretty easy and very satisfying to do. There's a guy on one of my Facebook pages who is doing the resin and sign combination with some nice results. If you look up free hand routing you should find loads of examples. Really appreciate your comments and thanks for watching
Beautiful job!
Thank you
Excelente trabajo,es muy bonita esta Presentación. Felicitaciones
Gracias!
Great job. Will that transfer method work with a laser jet printed stencil? Thanks!
Hi there, this transfer method works with any lazer printed image, just use normal printer paper and The liquid must be cellulose thinners or acetone though. works better with light woods rather than dark ones though
Nice video and work. Are you using a trim router or fixed/plunger router ? And the clear plate got a video on it ? Like the idea of that. Thanks.
Hi there, you can use a trim or plunge router for this, I do recommend a 1/4 inch router, bit easier to control! as for the base plate, I made my own, you don't need to do the same dimensions that I use, whatever you have will work. just make a large plate with some handles on it and it will improve your control considerable! thanks for watching and here is the link ua-cam.com/video/fFQPVxzSyIk/v-deo.html
I was fuzzing up the wood when I used spruce and douglas fir, so a friend suggested I use a down cut bit - all of yours are up cut - any recommendaitons to stop the fuzzy top edge?
the fzzy top edge should be to much pf a problem, is it on the surface your having the issue or the side of the text? if I get fuzzies on the surface, I generally do a light burn and then sand it off. the deeper you make your letters, the more room you have for clean up. thats why I use the up cut bits, they give me a cleaner background which is much harder to sand
@@JohnathonWhittaker That helps a lot thanks!
@@fordguyfordguy glad I could help!
Johnathan I'm back! Was the first spiral bit an upcut? Have you tried these methods with a harder material like Maple?
really sorry for taking so long to reply! didn't see your comment /question. the first bit was indeed a spiral upcut, 1.5mm. I haven't made signs in maple but I have used oak, mango and Zebrano, all very hard woods. same process, sometimes you just have to carve a little more shallowly depending on the wood hardness
Do you do these for people and sell them please comment back I got to in mind that I would love to have please comment back and how pricey are they Or does that depend on the design please let me know thank you very much
Hi Martin, yes I make wooden plaques and sculptures for commission, something like this one would be around £50, but it does depend on the design, material, carving complexity, lots of factors. Your best bet starting off is to give yourself a base line price, know how long it would take and what your material cost is. Then you can breaknit down to an hourly wage if you want or a flat commission charge of say £100 and then add on any new or complicated designs you need to do. If you want to see more of my work, here's a link to my Instagram page instagram.com/p/B18zx-wp2QH/?igshid=1jkmdaxkldgdd
Hi, where do you get the collet reducers from please.
Mark
Hi Mark, I get them off amazon or ebay. Just Google 1/4 to 1/8th collet reducer and you should get lots of options
@@JohnathonWhittaker thank you only just starting out on carving really enjoying your videos
@@markakerman3715 thank you very much, if you have more questions, feel free to ask or check out another channel called olddave100. Eric rhouten answers pretty much any question about router carving
Graet job! thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
👍 good
How did you cut out the backside of the router housing to allow more light in and help remove the sawdust? Hole saw? size, etc.?
Hi Blair, I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting bit. the size of the hole is dictated by the screw holes in the bottom. what you can do is turn the router over, check where the mounting screws go. make two marks inside of those two screw holes, giving maybe 5mm of clearance. then I drew a rectangle on the outside of the housing, making sure I wasn't going to cut anything important. I clamped the router base down and cut it out. I only really recommend this with the metal bases, I would be hesitant to do it on a plastic one. there was a video on it, I will try and find the link and share it with you. works really well though, lets light in and the wood chips out
here is a video from the chanel "old dave 100" they have literaly 100s of how-to videos on free hand routing. this link is a way to modify the router base. if you don't have a hole saw, you can just use a hacksaw or jigsaw. hope this helps ua-cam.com/video/kZLh3FFUJ78/v-deo.html
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thanks for the quick response. I had seen the youtube on the old dave 100 channel, but your job looked much neater. I am hesitant to do it because I don't want to screw up an expensive piece of equipment. Maybe I will give it a try. Thanks again.
@@blairackerbauer3975 what type of router have you got?
@@JohnathonWhittaker DWT611
Where do u buy your bits? And good job on the sign. I'm just starting out on making signs.
Mostly from amazon. Where are you based? I can find a link for your area
@@JohnathonWhittaker near Page AZ
@@stephannezsn best place for you would be amazon. I get the 1/4 to 1/8th collet reducers and use the 1/8th shank bits. www.amazon.com/HQMaster-Carbide-Router-Acrylic-Hardwood/dp/B010NI39WO
@@stephannezsn these are the collet reducers, fit in any 1/4" collet www.amazon.com/outstanding-Adapter-Engraving-Converter-Machine/dp/B07WNNV1BW
@@stephannezsn www.amazon.com/HQMaster-Titanium-Engraving-V-Shape-Tungsten/dp/B074MP9SFS
tell me more - I like the system used. what is the paper and what did you rub over the back to get the picture to come out?
The paper is just standard printer paper. You need to use cellulose or lacquer thinners to transfer the image and I just use a soup spoon to burnish or rub the image over. I have several more videos on the technique on the channel. Thanks for watching!
Can you tell me what fonts you used for all the words, please. I too use Inkscape and love it.
Hi Bruce, the two different fonts are "free style script" for for the "welcome to" and times new Roman for the "storybrook". You should be able to.find them and hundreds more on a site called Dafont.com. hope that helps!
Something wrong with using a CNC router? You are using a printer to print it out, why not do the same on a CNC program and hit start directly onto the wood
This Is more for people who want a more hands on experience and potentially can't afford an expensive cnc set up. I find this method to be very versatile, doesn't take up much room and can achieve much better results than alot of the lower cost cncs. As for printing, that's just easier for me to layout and design something immediately for clients, there are quite a few people who do the text free hand with excellent results. Different ways for different people. I often just use a mallet and gouges, also gives me the result I want although I still print it🙂
can you do the same transfer process with inkjet or just laser? I know you can print on freezer paper but i was curious if you could jus tprint and then do this transfer...? Thanks
Hi Scott, it has to be a laser printer. Doesn't work with inkjet. 8nhave seen the freezer paper process but it looks a bit to fiddly to me and hard to do larger images where you have to join the papers up
You can use a inkjet and do the modge podge technique. You spread the modge podge down and put the image on it, wait 24 hours for it.to.dry and then use water to.remove the paper. The image stays. Just to time consuming I thunk
How did you overlay the text and what program do you use for your projects?
Hi Chris, I use a free download program called inkscape. Allows me to manipulate text, add in s8gn shapes etc. I have a few videos on here on how to design with it
Is that a normal thinner liquid you using. Thanks
Hi Ralph, I use cellulose or acetone thinners, has to be 100% as well. Normal thinners won't work, For this process. Thanks for watching!
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thank you. Another Q, what types of Printers compatible for t-shirt heat press process. I have an Epson XP 200 and HP Deskjet F2120. Will they work. Thanks.
@@3588only hi Ralph, just so I understand your question, your asking about the transfer paper that you can iron on to t-shirts? The inkjet printers that you have will both work for that process but I found that using that method on wood had mixed results. Yes it transfers the image but then the router base can damage it and it can leave a sticky residue that adheres to the router as well. So not my favorite process. You might be able to do the transfer and then seal the image with a cheap varnish before routing
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thanks heaps, learned something.
Woah, HEY! Pump the brakes. What sort of witchcraft did you use to teleport the design onto the wood?
😁 hi Aaron, its a process using a lazer printer and cellulose thinners. I have several other videos that show exactly how to do it and what materials you need.
Did you sand the little spaces inside the “B” and the “R”, or was using a small chisel sufficient? Thank you for a very interesting and educational video.
Hi Sue, yes I used the chisels to get in between the letters for the final finish, its a small space so I used my smallest more as a scrapper to get the worst of it
Carved By Hand1 Thank you.
Why didn't you show the finished product?
That was it, how the client wanted it. Thanks for watching!
How deep did you go with the CNC Bit
I generally do two or three passes, going deeper each time to a depth of 3/8" or about 8mm. Pine tends to chip if I try and go to deep to fast. Also I get a cleaner finish with multiple passes. Takes a little longer but gives good results
How do you sand inside the letters?
Hi richard, it depends on how rough the background us inside the letters. You can use small spiral upcut bits to clean those tight spots. If you dont have them, diamond dremel bits work or even sanding pens. To clean up the letters themselves, i sometimes use 3m radial radial bristle discs. You can get the 1 inch diameter discs that are great for small small spaces. Hope that helps!
How much do you charge for these ?
this type of sign starts at about £35, wood type, size and complexity increase the price
Johnathon Whittaker what is that in Dollars
This guy sounds like Jon Cusack
Thank you i think?😁 thanks for watching