Oil Burner Electronic Controls

[@kirksmith5954]

ty man your channel saved me cash...my furnace blew soot through whole oil system covering the light censer with black film from soot. wiped it off and it stayed on it was shutting down after a min ..but i m covid broke and couldnt pay a guy to come ....thanks again friend

[@DragonJ-ui9gg]

Thanks for the video my boiler actually let go this past week and I waited two days for a boiler guy that never showed before I finally read how to jump the primary box to get the boiler running again after the primary box failed that’s the only reason I was able to do that but the cad cell was disconnected which made me nervous but the boiler was running great and I had to hunt down a new primary and used this video as a guide to double check myself. Thanks again

[@Aviator168]

Great video. Thanks. do you have a video on the aquastat connection?

[@frederickkosier2508]

Thank you. No sorry I do not have one on an aquastat yet

[@stumpynubs5387]

When replacing the primary is it plug and play or do you have to program it?

[@scotttaylor3049]

So how do you know if the cad cell is working properly? What is the normal reading when it’s running because you never had a flame or explain what the normal reading should be. At what point is it good or bad?

[@frederickkosier2508]

When the cad cell sees light the ohm reading will be very low ( 300 or less) when the cad cell sees dark it ohms out very high ( in the thousands)

[@scotttaylor3049]

@@frederickkosier2508 Are you sure about that 300 ohms or less? That seems a little low. And at what reading do I change it out? What if I get 1000 ohms

[@frederickkosier2508]

@@scotttaylor3049 I’ve seen them as low as 50

[@copykon]

I just came across a boiler that would start normally, then slow down and trigger reset. The problem was that the new pump had it's bypass screw installed... on a 2 line system.

[@prairiecity1778]

I have the same unit. It's currently set up for 110V but I want to switch eveything on the furnance to 220V (mostly want the blower on 220.). So does that ignitioin transformer need to be changed? How about the pump motor can it get set for 220V like a blower motor can? If not I guess I can run a separate cirucit (or just a neutral) and the burner can stay at 110 with the blower on 220.

[@frederickkosier2508]

The pump motor and transformer are all 120 volts. This also sends power to the blower motor. If you run a separate circuit just for the blower motor to make it 220 then nothing is telling the motor to turn on and off. I don’t think that would work

[@prairiecity1778]

​@@frederickkosier2508 I opened it all up. Thanks to your video and another on the bimetal temp switch I knew exactly what was what. I can add a 120 coil relay for the blower (blue from temp switch goes to 120 coil) and thus keep oil pump and control box on 120 but the blower at 240.

[@johonneng4105]

My oil furnace one day stopped working, doesn't start. Oil pressure ok. But I changed the oil filter and nozzle. Again oil pressure ok. Again oil furnace doesn't start. Check the spark it's ok. Again oil furnace won't start. Check the peephole to see if I’m getting spark, no spark. Replace the cad cell and transformer. But I get a spark when I took the nozzle/electrode out of the burner head. So I left the peephole open, guess what? The furnace started. This is completely the opposite of what the cad cell does. I double-check the cad cell, high resistance with no light, low resistance with light. Again cad cell is brand new. The oil furnace only starts with the peephole open, then I close the peephole and it runs great, very smooth. But won’t start up the next time the thermostats want heat on. What’s going on???