Thanks a ton for this video. I’m new to the field and always have a hard time remembering this process on the older controls. I’ve been spoiled with the Resideo R7284U controls lol
Great, thanks for letting me know that you received something good from one of my videos. I’m trying to reach guys just like you in the trade to help with my 35 years experience. Don’t forget to subscribe for future content.
Hey great vid , I have a question, I have a newer honeywell controller ( R8184G 4009) on my furnace , the furnace powers on for about 15-20 min and than turns off but with no lock out / no red light after that it doesn’t start again, I have to wait a couple hours and than the red light comes back on and I can press the reset button to start up the furnace again, any idea what it can be?
Great video Scott, I have a oil fired boiler. I replaced the cad cell last fall and had a guy come in and look the furnace over. He made some air adjustments and set the electrode. The furnace has run ok but would trip out occasionally. So I had another guy in and he checked the ohms and they were 1600.so he cut the air back and got it to around 600 I believe. It tripped out 12 hours later. So I reset it and its been running okay since little over a week ago. What is the best way to check the control ?it's possible its causing it to jump out?
If the air adjustment was correct in the first place by adding more air he probably overdid it. Another words too much air and that would cause the same effect possibly. Too much air to have it light properly. The cat still should’ve been replaced at 1600 homes and then tested again without any air adjustment. I would set the burner up using instruments and then test the ohms on the Cad cell. If it’s more than 1000 homes replace it and test it again. Occasionally it’s the socket and wires that are the problem.
I’ve been trying to fix my mother in laws burner, it keeps going off on safety every few days. Hit the reset and it works again. I’ve swapped out the fuel pump, the burner motor, the cad cell and the cad cell plug with its yellow wire and it’s still doing it!! Can a primary control cause intermittent issues?? Or maybe the aquastat? I’ve adjusted the electrodes dead on, the transformer puts out a big beautiful arc so I’m running out of things here. Any input from anyone? She’s on a fixed income and I’m traveling there over and over trying to help but this is getting nuts. 3 times already... I swapped the motor in case it had a dead spot in it.
After you reset the burner does it fire normal? Does it smoke or smell when it starts? If so then it usually points too too much fuel because of no ignition spark. If it fires normal it could indicate more of an electrical issue. What is the ohms reading for the cad cell eye?
@@scotttaylor3049 generally it fires up beautifully after a reset but once it smoked a lot so I swapped out the fuel pump and it lit beautifully again then 3 days later off on safety again. I did a ohms reading the wrong way because I didn’t disconnect it from the primary I just tested it while it ran and it was between 300-400 ohms pretty steady while it ran. I stopped and started it 20-25 times with no problems so I left after it got up to temperature and it was fine for 1 day then it went off on safety again. I haven’t gone back there yet this time (4th time)
@@lh98 It could be too much air burning too lean. It could be the primary control, or the solid-state igniter. You need to run test while it is acting up so you can find it. Is this being vented with a chimney or a power venter?
@@scotttaylor3049 it’s vented into solid smoke pipe that goes through the roof stack no power venter. I can’t test it when “it’s acting up” because it always seems to just run after I reset it. I did a smoke test it’s a 2 which should be fine and don’t see how it can be the air setting out of the blue after running just fine since the last tune up I did April 2021. I pulled the side clean out off and it has a light soot inside and isn’t plugged. I’m baffled.. swapped fuel pump, swapped motor, swapped cad cell, literally what’s left? The primary, the electrodes, the nozzle, filter, strainer, the ignitor (but it tests fine with a screwdriver and I hear it when it runs). I don’t have a gauge to check pump pressure but I’ve tried 2 pumps same result. Aquastat pretty much just sends power to burner right? So it’s either on or off and that’s it? I noticed B2 on the aquastat has a brown mark on the terminal but can that cause a burner to go off on safety? Idk man I do really appreciate any input you have. I worked for a service 20 something years ago for a year so I’m trying everything I know/remember
My furnace is reading 999999ohms and it has 10 error codes all about cad cell. I check the cad and the igniter. I jump the Tt and now it won’t turn on even if I reset it did I make it worse ?
Hey great vid , I have a question, I have a newer honeywell controller ( R8184G 4009) on my furnace , the furnace powers on for about 15-20 min and than turns off but with no lock out / no red light after that it doesn’t start again, I have to wait a couple hours and than the red light comes back on and I can press the reset button to start up the furnace again, any idea what it can be?
Thx for the video - it was perfectly explained.
Thanks
Thanks a ton for this video. I’m new to the field and always have a hard time remembering this process on the older controls. I’ve been spoiled with the Resideo R7284U controls lol
Great, thanks for letting me know that you received something good from one of my videos. I’m trying to reach guys just like you in the trade to help with my 35 years experience. Don’t forget to subscribe for future content.
Hey great vid , I have a question, I have a newer honeywell controller ( R8184G 4009) on my furnace , the furnace powers on for about 15-20 min and than turns off but with no lock out / no red light after that it doesn’t start again, I have to wait a couple hours and than the red light comes back on and I can press the reset button to start up the furnace again, any idea what it can be?
Great video Scott, I have a oil fired boiler. I replaced the cad cell last fall and had a guy come in and look the furnace over.
He made some air adjustments and set the electrode.
The furnace has run ok but would trip out occasionally.
So I had another guy in and he checked the ohms and they were 1600.so he cut the air back and got it to around 600 I believe. It tripped out 12 hours later. So I reset it and its been running okay since little over a week ago.
What is the best way to check the control ?it's possible its causing it to jump out?
If the air adjustment was correct in the first place by adding more air he probably overdid it. Another words too much air and that would cause the same effect possibly. Too much air to have it light properly. The cat still should’ve been replaced at 1600 homes and then tested again without any air adjustment. I would set the burner up using instruments and then test the ohms on the Cad cell. If it’s more than 1000 homes replace it and test it again. Occasionally it’s the socket and wires that are the problem.
if cad cell is seeing no light , ohms should be very high reading or infinity
I’ve been trying to fix my mother in laws burner, it keeps going off on safety every few days. Hit the reset and it works again. I’ve swapped out the fuel pump, the burner motor, the cad cell and the cad cell plug with its yellow wire and it’s still doing it!! Can a primary control cause intermittent issues?? Or maybe the aquastat? I’ve adjusted the electrodes dead on, the transformer puts out a big beautiful arc so I’m running out of things here. Any input from anyone? She’s on a fixed income and I’m traveling there over and over trying to help but this is getting nuts. 3 times already... I swapped the motor in case it had a dead spot in it.
After you reset the burner does it fire normal? Does it smoke or smell when it starts? If so then it usually points too too much fuel because of no ignition spark. If it fires normal it could indicate more of an electrical issue. What is the ohms reading for the cad cell eye?
@@scotttaylor3049 generally it fires up beautifully after a reset but once it smoked a lot so I swapped out the fuel pump and it lit beautifully again then 3 days later off on safety again. I did a ohms reading the wrong way because I didn’t disconnect it from the primary I just tested it while it ran and it was between 300-400 ohms pretty steady while it ran. I stopped and started it 20-25 times with no problems so I left after it got up to temperature and it was fine for 1 day then it went off on safety again. I haven’t gone back there yet this time (4th time)
@@lh98 It could be too much air burning too lean. It could be the primary control, or the solid-state igniter. You need to run test while it is acting up so you can find it. Is this being vented with a chimney or a power venter?
@@scotttaylor3049 it’s vented into solid smoke pipe that goes through the roof stack no power venter. I can’t test it when “it’s acting up” because it always seems to just run after I reset it. I did a smoke test it’s a 2 which should be fine and don’t see how it can be the air setting out of the blue after running just fine since the last tune up I did April 2021. I pulled the side clean out off and it has a light soot inside and isn’t plugged. I’m baffled.. swapped fuel pump, swapped motor, swapped cad cell, literally what’s left? The primary, the electrodes, the nozzle, filter, strainer, the ignitor (but it tests fine with a screwdriver and I hear it when it runs). I don’t have a gauge to check pump pressure but I’ve tried 2 pumps same result. Aquastat pretty much just sends power to burner right? So it’s either on or off and that’s it? I noticed B2 on the aquastat has a brown mark on the terminal but can that cause a burner to go off on safety? Idk man I do really appreciate any input you have. I worked for a service 20 something years ago for a year so I’m trying everything I know/remember
@@lh98 How old and what make and model is the heating system and the burner? What brand controls?
My furnace is reading 999999ohms and it has 10 error codes all about cad cell. I check the cad and the igniter. I jump the Tt and now it won’t turn on even if I reset it did I make it worse ?
Hi sorry to hear that. Do you get a flame?
Hey great vid , I have a question, I have a newer honeywell controller ( R8184G 4009) on my furnace , the furnace powers on for about 15-20 min and than turns off but with no lock out / no red light after that it doesn’t start again, I have to wait a couple hours and than the red light comes back on and I can press the reset button to start up the furnace again, any idea what it can be?