Excellent, and thanks so much! I've got a rod knock in an old 394 V8, and these videos give me the confidence to work through the job myself. And thanks for mentioning plasti-gauge. I was thinking I had to go buy expensive micrometers to do this.
@@betterMatt2 Thanks for asking! I dunno yet 😆 I've found that setting a completion goal for this build in 'years' as opposed to 'weeks' makes it less painful to miss my deadline. Check with me in March!
@@betterMatt2well mine didn’t turn out so well lmao. But that is because I didn’t know about needing a clutch stop for a twin disc. I just ended up having a machine shop do my K24A4 this time. Should be getting back soon 😁
Man!!! I get excited when I see these tech videos. If Jay had his own school I'd be there all day haha. Thanks once again Jay and the guys at Real Street, I have learnt so much by watching your tech vids. It helped me better understand what I'm passionate about though I never perused it as a profession.
OK, this is excellent, professorial. The gentleman explains as if a 5 y/o can understand, and it takes complete command of the subject matter do that. Nicely done.
This is EXACTLY the information I have been looking for. I'm going through this same process but with aluminum rods for my 1g DSM. First engine I've built but doing it right with all the right tools as well. I had no clue about bearing eccentricity. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you Jay! You must have known I'm about to start building a motor. I might even call you guys for the pistons and rods as I've seen them offered from you site.
I feel like we owe you $ for this video. There's lot of little bits of info in here that take years to learn the hard way if you're paying real close attention. This video is the best on the internet for proper measurement of bearing clearances.
I had an issue with a huge dresser rand compressor. It was driven by a cat 3608. One of the brand new bearing shells was misboxed. We would have caught it if we had measured bearing crush. The clearance was correct, but there was no crush, and that permitted it to spin. This compressor was offshore, and we needed a crane to move parts around. It turned into a chore. Good on you for mentioning crush. Most people overlook it but it is important to know how to measure it on your application. I find it covers my ass to document it on my spec sheet.
thanks for taking the time to create these videos man, I'm currently beginning my first engine build, a 5.0 Windsor, I have been wanting to do so for a long time, now just gaining the knowledge, thanks again! From Australia!
When I worked for Honda I've replaced many bearings for various warranty issues. Honda had a system to put the correct main and rod bearings in. The block and crank are stamped with a code like AABB or ABAB, so if main journal #1 was A and Crank journal #1 was B you would check these on a chart and it would give you a bearing color to use. If I remember correctly you could have up to four different sizes for each combination. Using aftermarket bearings it seems not as dialed in, as a engine builder what is your thoughts on this?
Best teacher & Best content on YT ! Many thanks from France !!! Your clear voice and speaking is a chance for foreign people as me. Your sharing of top knowledge too ! Great job !
This is a good vid explaining it fairly simply Steve Morris also has a good vid on this same thing along with all kinds of other important tech tips laid out simple like jay does here
This process he's showing you is extremely normal for any 'serious' engine builder who knows how to correctly measure/assemble a motor. Jay's just showcasing it for you.
Just bought a project sc300 factory 5spd with lifter tick, thinking of chasing some hp and this video was so informative to me honestly priceless educational
Hello Jay, the videos you all produce here at Real Street Performance are always so informational! Keep up the good work. I have a question, I have upgraded to APR main bolts and have not reconditioned the block, but after measuring the vertical clearances I am closer to the mid-upper spec. Should I even care about the clearance at the parting line or should I have the block honed so that I can bring that clearance down some?
Man I am so excited for my B18C1 Build! Thank you so much I am humbled by the quality and exception care into the video and instructions given. Amazing Content and You Deserve a Bigger Following.
Very true about the bearing manufacturer messing up. I had King send me incorrect bearings and still told me I was wrong after sending then pictures of bearings that weren't even keyed for my engine.
Wouldn’t you want to install the HX bearing on the block end (aluminum) since aluminum expands more than steel, thus reducing oil clearance? Having a hard time understanding why an H bearing would go block side, it’d just make the clearance that much tighter when up to temperature?
How do you know when your mic is center on the crank journals or in other words the largest measurment of the journal. Also, do you need to rock it at all to make sure your mic is straight before locking down on a measurment?
plastigauge - for example... is indicating the entire difference in diameters, correct? so the clearance / 2 is the actual difference in radius. Thoughts? THANKS
Thanks so much, great video. I am working on a BMW m20 6 cyl. The rod bolts are spec'd to be turned only once. Apparently they stretch when torqued to spec and once stretched they can't be unstretched, so when you tighten rod bolts to check clearance what should you do with this problem. I don't want to buy 2 sets of bolts. Thanks again.
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
great video you guys I'm in the process of rebuilding my first motor and it just happens to be a integra equivalent block. thanks ! Subscribed! also a customer
Great video, loved it! Great presentation, easy to follow along and highly educational. Please continue doing these! There are three things I would like to hear your opinion on: 1. All of clearances were measured cold. Of course we cannot realistically measure at hot operating conditions. If one follows the manufacturers' guidelines, who most likely accounted for the thermal expansion of the different materials and consequently thermal distortion, we should still operate with safe clearances I would assume. Is there any way to account for the thermal distortion during cold assembly that you know of? 2. With respect to the bolts or studs, I see two potential issues. First, there are torque to yield (TTY) bolts which are deformed not just elastically but plastically (permanently) as the material is stretched beyond its yield point. One cannot bolt these down several times unfortunately. I guess these are pretty uncommon in the high performance industry. Do you have any advice about how to deal with TTY fasteners? If one wants to check clearances, one has to use a second set of these fasteners during the build. At that point I would guess going with a higher quality fastener is the also the cheaper option anyway. 3. Is there a specific reason why, when you are bolting down the fasteners, you are not using fastener assembly lubricant? I thought skipping the lubricant can give you erroneous readings, which might be mitigated by re-installing the fastener several times, according to ARP.
I have always been amazed how accurately manufactured our bike engines are IE (ZX14R) has three bearing sizes to choose from and the difference from the thinnest to thickest main bearing insert is only .0003" (Journals spec. is 1.5742" to 1.5748"). The thinnest to thickest available rod bearing spread is .00039 (with 1.4954 to 1.4961 Journal). I wouldn't ever do it do it but I've heard of some people that just order a complete set of the thinnest bearings and throw they're engines together (engine ass-emblers vs engine builder)...
Hi, really great videos Jay. If my engine uses torque to yield bolts which are single use. is it acceptable to use the old bolts for all the checking and then install the new bolts for final assembly. many thanks Andy
Like everyone has said, this video is amazeballz. I have access to all these tools and have been wanting to start building my own engines and this is a very big help to give me the confidence to do so. Thank you, and let’s fully build this b-series, huh? Thank you for the information. Hats off.
Hey what brand of mic’s do you use or could you get us a part number also on your 3/8th t handle cause I wanna be like you when I grow up so I might as well start saving up for my tools since now
Great video. Similar saying is you will never lose an engine on the loose side but you may on the tight side. I still can't figure out why some BMWs have bearing issues, I know they r tight but something you said about mains being tight may be part of it as even when big ends r increased they still seem to have issues.
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Aiming to hit 1k+ hp is 0.003 on mains and rods too much ? It’s a iron block has extra clearance shells on top and bottom of crank and rods. Running summit ls pro crank and rods
Thank you Jay for the very informative video! Good stuff! I'm used to using plastic gauge to measure bearing clearance. However i understand this method doesn't precisely measure the clearances close enough. I'll definitely be using this method going forward. In your video you mention setting the Outisde Micrometer to the Main bore housing diameter mid-level. How do i determine or find that number?
Thank you for your videos Jay. I always have issues measuring the journals and pistons with micrometer. The readings are never the same for every measurement. Is it that I do not get the center of the journals and center of the pistons. What might be the cause?
How did you know what bearings to purchase in the first place?? You had to have some idea of the size based on the block housing and crank journal, correct?? I'm asking because I'm taking on a huge , but interesting project. If it fails, I'll be no worse off than I am now. I have an Audi A6 which has a spun main bearing (the rest of the journals ,all of them/crank and rod journals, look great). I am going to machine the welded on bearing off myself (I am confident in my machining skills) then I'm going to bore weld the block and then line bore it back to speck. If necessary, I'll also weld the crank and machine it back to spec. However, as I was measuring a few minutes ago. I noticed factory says the crank should be between 2.5599" - 2.567" and I'm getting 2.5578 (smaller than the smallest factory crank spec by .0021" ) Does that mean I need to go 0.0021" bigger than factory main bearings? Also, Audi uses a color code and I don't know that the specs are for the bearings. They just refer to them as Yellow, Black, Green and Red. Mine or Yellow (1), Black (2), Black(3) and Black (4). It's a V6 - Also, how do you know how much vertical oil clearance you want?
Excellent tutorial for clearancing an engine, but I have a question I've been unable to find the answer to: if the engine uses TTY bolts that are non-reusable, do I need to buy multiple sets of bolts and always use a virgin bolt at each step?
Excellent, and thanks so much! I've got a rod knock in an old 394 V8, and these videos give me the confidence to work through the job myself. And thanks for mentioning plasti-gauge. I was thinking I had to go buy expensive micrometers to do this.
please keep doing these videos, I learn more watching Jay explain things than anything else and its a lot of fun to watch.
At a minute thirty through the video I've already learned something new. Real Street Performance is easily my favorite car parts company.
This is the best information on measuing bearing clearances on the entire internet IMO. Awesome.
Me, watching as I clutch my $6 plastiguage: Oh okay neat.
Same bro
How'd the engine turn out btw? 🫣
@@betterMatt2 Thanks for asking! I dunno yet 😆 I've found that setting a completion goal for this build in 'years' as opposed to 'weeks' makes it less painful to miss my deadline. Check with me in March!
@@betterMatt2well mine didn’t turn out so well lmao. But that is because I didn’t know about needing a clutch stop for a twin disc. I just ended up having a machine shop do my K24A4 this time. Should be getting back soon 😁
Man!!! I get excited when I see these tech videos. If Jay had his own school I'd be there all day haha. Thanks once again Jay and the guys at Real Street, I have learnt so much by watching your tech vids. It helped me better understand what I'm passionate about though I never perused it as a profession.
Lol🤣 watching Jay with these MANY teachings it's always a pleasure to many persons like myself who have a general motor vehicle knowledge .
I can now assemble high performance engine with trust , we all owe you Jay
Thats an understatement.
I’d love to build an engine one day, but as my first built engine I’m going to have you build it. Great stuff Jay.
Thanks uncle Jay. We would like to see a special video for spark plugs selection for 2jz
OK, this is excellent, professorial. The gentleman explains as if a 5 y/o can understand, and it takes complete command of the subject matter do that. Nicely done.
Absolute best set of videos. Learning a ton, quality is top notch, no filler, all killer :)
This is EXACTLY the information I have been looking for. I'm going through this same process but with aluminum rods for my 1g DSM. First engine I've built but doing it right with all the right tools as well. I had no clue about bearing eccentricity. Thanks for the great video!
ua-cam.com/users/Jafromobile
Jafromobile is an excellent channel for DSM builds, no flashiness, no BS, the guy is 100% transparent on his builds.
I can't tell ya how much I appreciate these tech videos. Thanks Jay and real st!
Thank you Jay! You must have known I'm about to start building a motor. I might even call you guys for the pistons and rods as I've seen them offered from you site.
Same here my friend! I’ve got a Smokey FA20 WRX that needs some attention and real st has aalllll the internals 👌👌
@@TheBevis593 I hope you get it sorted quickly and with ease🤞👍👍 I am rebuilding my 08 2.3 mazdaspeed
I feel like we owe you $ for this video. There's lot of little bits of info in here that take years to learn the hard way if you're paying real close attention. This video is the best on the internet for proper measurement of bearing clearances.
Great info. I'm building a Toyota 22RE with my kids. I just sent them this link to help with our build
Super helpful thanks boss.
I had an issue with a huge dresser rand compressor. It was driven by a cat 3608. One of the brand new bearing shells was misboxed. We would have caught it if we had measured bearing crush. The clearance was correct, but there was no crush, and that permitted it to spin. This compressor was offshore, and we needed a crane to move parts around. It turned into a chore. Good on you for mentioning crush. Most people overlook it but it is important to know how to measure it on your application. I find it covers my ass to document it on my spec sheet.
thanks for taking the time to create these videos man, I'm currently beginning my first engine build, a 5.0 Windsor, I have been wanting to do so for a long time, now just gaining the knowledge, thanks again! From Australia!
As well as “keeping an oil pool” the extra horizontal clearance is needed during crank deflection, that deflection squares the bearing
Very informative video. I'm gonna get some micrometers and give it a try. Always wanted to learn how to do just been scared.
Great educational video. 👏
You are the man as far as all this goes ! Thank you so much !
Great content .I'm studying for an ASE test without schooling
Thank you for sharing your brain with us. Would be awesome to see you build a k20 from scratch
WE LOVE YOU JAY ,VERY PRICY INFORMATION MAN.THANK YOU FOR SHARING BUD🙏
When I worked for Honda I've replaced many bearings for various warranty issues. Honda had a system to put the correct main and rod bearings in. The block and crank are stamped with a code like AABB or ABAB, so if main journal #1 was A and Crank journal #1 was B you would check these on a chart and it would give you a bearing color to use. If I remember correctly you could have up to four different sizes for each combination. Using aftermarket bearings it seems not as dialed in, as a engine builder what is your thoughts on this?
Best teacher & Best content on YT !
Many thanks from France !!!
Your clear voice and speaking is a chance for foreign people as me.
Your sharing of top knowledge too !
Great job !
Very nice practices...
This is a good vid explaining it fairly simply Steve Morris also has a good vid on this same thing along with all kinds of other important tech tips laid out simple like jay does here
Jay wish I could get you to build my block. Your attention to detail is impeccable.
This process he's showing you is extremely normal for any 'serious' engine builder who knows how to correctly measure/assemble a motor. Jay's just showcasing it for you.
Thank you Jay!
This is great!
Best regards from the netherlands.
Love ur videos Jay. And being a lefty makes more sense to your vast amount of knowledge in ur craft.
Great now I want to build another motor. Thanks guys love these video. You guys are awesome
That work table looks like it needs more than one vise.🤙🏽awesome YT vid as always Boss Jay🤙🏽
Thank you Jay & Real Street for putting this video into the ether. You guys are doing God's work with engines
Thank you Jay and staff for all your efforts. Presentation, facts and information are 2nd to none.
Thanks jay. Love these videos. I'm just about to put my k24 together.
Just bought a project sc300 factory 5spd with lifter tick, thinking of chasing some hp and this video was so informative to me honestly priceless educational
Hello Jay, the videos you all produce here at Real Street Performance are always so informational! Keep up the good work. I have a question, I have upgraded to APR main bolts and have not reconditioned the block, but after measuring the vertical clearances I am closer to the mid-upper spec. Should I even care about the clearance at the parting line or should I have the block honed so that I can bring that clearance down some?
Thank you Jay for the great information
This channel is goated
Great video, any recommendations on where to buy the micrometers and bore gauge?
Man I am so excited for my B18C1 Build! Thank you so much I am humbled by the quality and exception care into the video and instructions given. Amazing Content and You Deserve a Bigger Following.
Nice engine indeed.
Can you reuse the main block bolts and main bolt caps?
Very true about the bearing manufacturer messing up. I had King send me incorrect bearings and still told me I was wrong after sending then pictures of bearings that weren't even keyed for my engine.
I was going to build my own block until I saw this video, best to leave it to the pros.
Wouldn’t you want to install the HX bearing on the block end (aluminum) since aluminum expands more than steel, thus reducing oil clearance? Having a hard time understanding why an H bearing would go block side, it’d just make the clearance that much tighter when up to temperature?
Awesome video, thanks for the help!
What's if it's a torque to yield bolt. Do I need to change the bolt everytime I do a measurement? BMW S63 engine for reference.
Nice one thank you
Very concise and professional. Your teaching abilities are stellar. Thank You !!!
This is my favorite channel
awesome video. one thing i wish you covered was rode side clearances. keep up the good work you're killing it
How do you know when your mic is center on the crank journals or in other words the largest measurment of the journal. Also, do you need to rock it at all to make sure your mic is straight before locking down on a measurment?
Would be nice to know the exact tools you were using!
Always the best info from Jay
plastigauge - for example... is indicating the entire difference in diameters, correct? so the clearance / 2 is the actual difference in radius. Thoughts? THANKS
Great content
this is a great guide, i learned alot!
Thanks so much, great video. I am working on a BMW m20 6 cyl. The rod bolts are spec'd to be turned only once. Apparently they stretch when torqued to spec and once stretched they can't be unstretched, so when you tighten rod bolts to check clearance what should you do with this problem. I don't want to buy 2 sets of bolts. Thanks again.
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
great video you guys I'm in the process of rebuilding my first motor and it just happens to be a integra equivalent block. thanks ! Subscribed! also a customer
What is the advantage of measuring the clearances this way instead of using plastigauges?
Great video, loved it! Great presentation, easy to follow along and highly educational. Please continue doing these!
There are three things I would like to hear your opinion on:
1. All of clearances were measured cold. Of course we cannot realistically measure at hot operating conditions. If one follows the manufacturers' guidelines, who most likely accounted for the thermal expansion of the different materials and consequently thermal distortion, we should still operate with safe clearances I would assume. Is there any way to account for the thermal distortion during cold assembly that you know of?
2. With respect to the bolts or studs, I see two potential issues. First, there are torque to yield (TTY) bolts which are deformed not just elastically but plastically (permanently) as the material is stretched beyond its yield point. One cannot bolt these down several times unfortunately. I guess these are pretty uncommon in the high performance industry. Do you have any advice about how to deal with TTY fasteners? If one wants to check clearances, one has to use a second set of these fasteners during the build. At that point I would guess going with a higher quality fastener is the also the cheaper option anyway.
3. Is there a specific reason why, when you are bolting down the fasteners, you are not using fastener assembly lubricant? I thought skipping the lubricant can give you erroneous readings, which might be mitigated by re-installing the fastener several times, according to ARP.
Some insightful questions, would love Jay to hear Jay's opinion.
Did you find anything about tty bolts on this topic ?
Good video. Although I'm building a 460 385 series. Don't know if those bearings are available??
I have always been amazed how accurately manufactured our bike engines are IE (ZX14R) has three bearing sizes to choose from and the
difference from the thinnest to thickest main bearing insert is only .0003" (Journals spec. is 1.5742" to 1.5748").
The thinnest to thickest available rod bearing spread is .00039 (with 1.4954 to 1.4961 Journal).
I wouldn't ever do it do it but I've heard of some people that just order a complete set of the thinnest bearings and throw they're engines together
(engine ass-emblers vs engine builder)...
Hi, really great videos Jay. If my engine uses torque to yield bolts which are single use. is it acceptable to use the old bolts for all the checking and then install the new bolts for final assembly. many thanks Andy
So does micrometer touch the main journal?
So good!! Thanks Jay…
how is adding clearance to the mains going to give more oil to the rods? If anything it'll reduce the oil to the rods.
Like everyone has said, this video is amazeballz. I have access to all these tools and have been wanting to start building my own engines and this is a very big help to give me the confidence to do so. Thank you, and let’s fully build this b-series, huh? Thank you for the information. Hats off.
Hey what brand of mic’s do you use or could you get us a part number also on your 3/8th t handle cause I wanna be like you when I grow up so I might as well start saving up for my tools since now
What’s your thoughts on micrometers as prices vary greatly and analog or digital thanks
Very informative Jake are the best i personally was doing thinks wrongfully now i know 😂❤🙏🇵🇷💪
Awesome video! I usually build v8s, so this was very informative on the slight differences between the two. I am excited to tap into the honda world!
What kind of outside micrometer are you using?
Great job team 👏
Love it man!
Very informative!
What’s the is the micrometer you’re using?
Great video very well done 👍
If i got 0.006 on old road bearing clearance what do you suggest reputting new one standar?
Thank you Jay, can’t wait for moar vids 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Excellent video. Thanks for all the knowledge bombs.
Great video. Similar saying is you will never lose an engine on the loose side but you may on the tight side. I still can't figure out why some BMWs have bearing issues, I know they r tight but something you said about mains being tight may be part of it as even when big ends r increased they still seem to have issues.
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Aiming to hit 1k+ hp is 0.003 on mains and rods too much ? It’s a iron block has extra clearance shells on top and bottom of crank and rods. Running summit ls pro crank and rods
if anyone has wondered what 24 karat gold in video form looks like, its right here. beast mode
what is that tooling sunnen you are using? i would like to buy one
I love these videos and thank you for sharing
Thanks for sharing, very informative
Great video guys. Never attempted something like this but this has been a very informative session.
Great Video, thanks Jay
Thank you Jay for the very informative video! Good stuff! I'm used to using plastic gauge to measure bearing clearance. However i understand this method doesn't precisely measure the clearances close enough. I'll definitely be using this method going forward. In your video you mention setting the Outisde Micrometer to the Main bore housing diameter mid-level. How do i determine or find that number?
Do you have any recomendations for micrometers for hobbyist starting out on building their first engine?
Thank you for your videos Jay.
I always have issues measuring the journals and pistons with micrometer. The readings are never the same for every measurement. Is it that I do not get the center of the journals and center of the pistons. What might be the cause?
How did you know what bearings to purchase in the first place?? You had to have some idea of the size based on the block housing and crank journal, correct?? I'm asking because I'm taking on a huge , but interesting project. If it fails, I'll be no worse off than I am now. I have an Audi A6 which has a spun main bearing (the rest of the journals ,all of them/crank and rod journals, look great). I am going to machine the welded on bearing off myself (I am confident in my machining skills) then I'm going to bore weld the block and then line bore it back to speck. If necessary, I'll also weld the crank and machine it back to spec. However, as I was measuring a few minutes ago. I noticed factory says the crank should be between 2.5599" - 2.567" and I'm getting 2.5578 (smaller than the smallest factory crank spec by .0021" ) Does that mean I need to go 0.0021" bigger than factory main bearings? Also, Audi uses a color code and I don't know that the specs are for the bearings. They just refer to them as Yellow, Black, Green and Red. Mine or Yellow (1), Black (2), Black(3) and Black (4). It's a V6 - Also, how do you know how much vertical oil clearance you want?
Excellent tutorial for clearancing an engine, but I have a question I've been unable to find the answer to: if the engine uses TTY bolts that are non-reusable, do I need to buy multiple sets of bolts and always use a virgin bolt at each step?
You can reuse the bolts as long as they're not beyond the FSM stretch limit.
Awesome video.