@Somerled Vonkaktus Ha ha really? Where is your video that is superior, equal to this? If your less don't hide behind word making you supreme. Polite people know what your doing and don't hold you to the real truth because they have mercy on a lesser man. Explain to you, negative without merit is mark of a troll. Thank you for your opinion forgot about video and now I'll enjoy it again!🇺🇸🌋🤔
@@realstreetperformance You can tell from the comments the bench racers vs we that task years in dyno room. Wow just find it to the point of funny at unfounded negative comments. Bragging at their lack of experience and knowledge. Thank you for excellent common sense video that is very clear for anyone open to increased knowledge. Keep up the good work!
@Somerled Vonkaktus Building custom engines 70s, 80s majority twin turbo and 10-71 to 14-71 blower engines. Common race engines in gas class going two season before need to freshen up for 9.90 class cars. 8.90 full season with one failure customer wounded engine in grudge race 7.91 1/4 mile on 96 degree day in 1987. Currently still running stroker big block 8.90 1978 Corvette. Works fine with oil coolers and is street driven to grocery store and for fun with 12.7 compression on 110 octane gas. Running dyno for decades and results of power with endurance. So experience with oils with or without dry sump oil systems. Road Atlanta or drag strips the 80s and 90s wasn't a time of replacing a car or mud truck engine every race. So talk is cheap but bottom end of engines and ring survival is a must found even today no matter what oil. Control of oil temperatures was a must baseline and alcohol injection conquers the problems when you still need keep timing more aggressive in the final rounds. Testing to the point of failure leaded to power and survival of a 520 c.i. big block chevy at a normal 7300 rpm with dual NOS each unit at 200 hp for total 400 hp boost on a 926 hp N.A. motor. I am retired now and this video is a very good example of how to read failures. If bit of timing or tired engine with it push pass endurance. If this guy was anything like you paint his lack of knowledge. They would be a window in the block...lol. You are just a disrespectful troll hiding behind negative comments to fool yourself like you are professional. Smokey Yunick would have kick you out of his parking lot. We both really have no time for someone who has to prove their stupid on the subject.
@Somerled Vonkaktus Just so you fool no one. You have reached the degree of a fake on the subject. Funny that you have misspelled you name! Correct spelling is Goober! Now be good time for you to do video of your own say on radiator cap for a 1970 VW Beetle or show us you 1984 Yugo race car with Centerline 3 lug race rims. Make your own video and quit your negative lies. Weak life your living trying to pull honest folks down to your level.
Excellent break down video Jay! Exactly what i was looking for as far as rod bearing wear (mine were starting to flatten out in the middle but I caught it in time) and I learned a couple other new things... So Thank you! I hope to have as much wisdom and talent as you one day! I understand this is an older video.. But it's still helping people like myself out!
Wow, I just cracked a piston from a knock event. I think I’ll go through the rest of the bottom end and give it a good look to make sure I’m not putting broke stuff back in it.
You know what makes no sense to me, why is the wrist pin 1 inch yet the crank journal over 2 inches wide??? The wrist pin sees the intitial pressure force and the crank secondary???
I am from china,we are 20 years professional engine parts OEM manufacturer .Our quality is high and stable. We believe you will like our quality. Our engine bearing,piston ring, cylinder liner,engine valve mainly apply to Cummins,Caterpillar,IVECO,Volvo,Scania,Man,Komatsu,JCB,etc.
Mine (knew beforehand it would happen eventually - stock bottom end ca18det)..stretched rod bolts -> big end bearing loses oil film and starts to heat up due friction -> rod bolts completely fail -> rod fliess towards the cylinder head and smashes the piston to a thousand pieces -> crank hits the free rod towards the engine block and makes a huge hole -> engine seizes all happened at 8000rpm @ 250kph in under 5 seconds ;p
Check out Project Farm's video on oil testing. Depending on what brand engine oil you use it may change your mind on what you are using. Enjoy the channel.
Thanks for all the educational videos. Definitely helped me be more informative when I re-built my s54 engine off my m3. I have a question regarding oil consumption, is there an email I can reach you at?
Great video got me in hot spot thinking ihave a VW 1600 engine that had a worn out oil ring but I dnt know how to diagnose if I turned a bearing if my Crankshaft if damaged if the rods needs replacement how do I diagnose if the crank needs to be cut o what
I disassemble my d15 honda engine and on my rod bearings on the upper bearing hole has some material of bearing removed....like the oil pressure flakes the bearing around the oil hole....what cause this?
We were not actually filming anything when the engine picked up a noise. It never had a spectacular failure that you could see on camera. We just started to hear a noise so we turned it off and tore it down.
I have a 7 bolt 4g36 eng the transmission isn't changing gears right I've replaced everything new my eng isn't running right and then it does like a dream and then it is hard to start it says masflow is bad egr valve is stuck it's new map sencer is not working properly I can wigel the wires and reset codes and it will either run right or like not have power no acceleration like the mass flow air sensor is bad then I can reset the codes and it'll run like a dream sometimes it says the A and B solenoid in the transmission is bad they are brand new do you know the corporate of what my problem is and if so can you help me out it is a 2001 2.4 liter Kia Optima
Hi, I have a problem, in the new engine I bought to my car, unfortunately a foreign metal piece ( 5mmX5mmX5mm) has fallen on top of the 4th piston. Had run around 30kms and at last removed it. Few indents in piston crown and head. No valves damaged. But still there is a small knocking kind of noise coming inside. Could you please tell me what should I do? I am planning to replace only that piston having assumed that there may be a small bend in the rod or damaged bearings. Shall I just do it and check ? or remove entire engine and inspect all parts? Thanks...
What size wrench is used to hold the cam in place while breaking lose the cam gear bolts? I can't seem to find an answer for this anywhere. I don't want to use an adjustable wrench... I've had bad luck with them stripping bolts/nuts, etc. Is the fixed wrench size 31mm or 32mm?
So heres a question, I just rebuilt a motor in a car. It had been run low on oil and the rod bearings were on their way out. Motor knocked for a sec on startup before the oil pump catched up then it was fine. With the new rod bearings in it runs much better but I'm still hearing some noise when it's cold. What are the odds that when it was run low on oil the main bearings went bad. What does an engine with bad main bearings but good rod bearings sound like? Thanks!
This comment might be so useless, my 2j was on the dyno just last night and everything went great apart from noticing detonation clues on two plugs at one of the pulls. Please tell me I have nothing to worry about and not to overthink, I mean jz’s can stand one detonation accident don’t they
To put your mind at ease it may be worth popping your oil pan off and removing a rod bearing cap to check out the bearings. If you see wear at the bottom half of the cap/bearing compared to the rest of the bearing its a good indication that detonation force was hammering downward and wearing your bearings prematurely.
I would imagine that the rod bearing takes the hit first. That's how my engine looks, rod bearings have obvious detonation wear but the top of the piston is relatively fine aside from some ring land burns.
I have a question on a stock 5.2 magnum cam failure. I am wondering what caused this damage, the roller lifter, pushrod and valve were all fine, just this one lobe seemed to be disintegrating. Here is a link to a vid showing it. (If that's ok, if not just delete this post.) 👍 ua-cam.com/video/YsmPxCQu5mU/v-deo.html
Most will think it was an oiling issue when they see spun bearings. Detonation doesn't hide itself. This engine is a good example of what small amounts of detonation will do overtime.
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Experience and wisdom without hype. Great video of development of engine life vs power due to parts systems.
thanks for watching Stephen
@Somerled Vonkaktus Ha ha really? Where is your video that is superior, equal to this? If your less don't hide behind word making you supreme. Polite people know what your doing and don't hold you to the real truth because they have mercy on a lesser man. Explain to you, negative without merit is mark of a troll. Thank you for your opinion forgot about video and now I'll enjoy it again!🇺🇸🌋🤔
@@realstreetperformance You can tell from the comments the bench racers vs we that task years in dyno room. Wow just find it to the point of funny at unfounded negative comments. Bragging at their lack of experience and knowledge. Thank you for excellent common sense video that is very clear for anyone open to increased knowledge. Keep up the good work!
@Somerled Vonkaktus Building custom engines 70s, 80s majority twin turbo and 10-71 to 14-71 blower engines. Common race engines in gas class going two season before need to freshen up for 9.90 class cars. 8.90 full season with one failure customer wounded engine in grudge race 7.91 1/4 mile on 96 degree day in 1987. Currently still running stroker big block 8.90 1978 Corvette. Works fine with oil coolers and is street driven to grocery store and for fun with 12.7 compression on 110 octane gas. Running dyno for decades and results of power with endurance. So experience with oils with or without dry sump oil systems. Road Atlanta or drag strips the 80s and 90s wasn't a time of replacing a car or mud truck engine every race. So talk is cheap but bottom end of engines and ring survival is a must found even today no matter what oil. Control of oil temperatures was a must baseline and alcohol injection conquers the problems when you still need keep timing more aggressive in the final rounds. Testing to the point of failure leaded to power and survival of a 520 c.i. big block chevy at a normal 7300 rpm with dual NOS each unit at 200 hp for total 400 hp boost on a 926 hp N.A. motor. I am retired now and this video is a very good example of how to read failures. If bit of timing or tired engine with it push pass endurance. If this guy was anything like you paint his lack of knowledge. They would be a window in the block...lol. You are just a disrespectful troll hiding behind negative comments to fool yourself like you are professional. Smokey Yunick would have kick you out of his parking lot. We both really have no time for someone who has to prove their stupid on the subject.
@Somerled Vonkaktus Just so you fool no one. You have reached the degree of a fake on the subject. Funny that you have misspelled you name! Correct spelling is Goober! Now be good time for you to do video of your own say on radiator cap for a 1970 VW Beetle or show us you 1984 Yugo race car with Centerline 3 lug race rims. Make your own video and quit your negative lies. Weak life your living trying to pull honest folks down to your level.
Thanks for making this video! I doubt many people with failed engines approach diagnosing them with this level of knowledge.
Thanks for the support Joseph
u nw about bikes
The definition of "sending it" you guys sent it to heaven 😂😂
dubyah2445 hahaha off to a better place
This is awesome for a deep dive on an engine failure! Can you do more sorts of videos like this? It is very helpful and gives tons of insight.
Never seen so much intentional damage and clearly explained.
Excellent break down video Jay! Exactly what i was looking for as far as rod bearing wear (mine were starting to flatten out in the middle but I caught it in time) and I learned a couple other new things... So Thank you! I hope to have as much wisdom and talent as you one day! I understand this is an older video.. But it's still helping people like myself out!
Great information Jay.. Thanks again for your never ending work to improve the import performance community.
Thank you Sam Collier
Awsome video. Not just a 2j video great for any engine! Thank you
MrRyan62583 Thanks for watching
So much education so well explained. Thanks, Jay. Keep it up!
Scott Hodges thanks for the kind words
Thankyou for providing these educational videos. You're a hero.
juicy juicy info
Eduardo Espinoza thank you!
Lots to learn on tear downs.
Thanks for commenting and watching Rod
Wow, I just cracked a piston from a knock event. I think I’ll go through the rest of the bottom end and give it a good look to make sure I’m not putting broke stuff back in it.
nice video. I just got a knock on my eclipse with less than 50k. Was just tuning and it was running rich. Digging now to see what went wrong.
Hats off to you jay
awesome video
иїѕмөғяєдк thank you!
Great information ❤
Great video Jay keep up the good work.
Great easy to understand video
This dude knows his jzs
very interesting, so conclusion failure is due to excessive timing - bad fuel? what timing was this engine seeing when detonation occurred?
Great Video!
You know what makes no sense to me, why is the wrist pin 1 inch yet the crank journal over 2 inches wide??? The wrist pin sees the intitial pressure force and the crank secondary???
I am from china,we are 20 years professional engine parts OEM manufacturer .Our quality is high and stable. We believe you will like our quality.
Our engine bearing,piston ring, cylinder liner,engine valve mainly apply to Cummins,Caterpillar,IVECO,Volvo,Scania,Man,Komatsu,JCB,etc.
very informative J btw am trying to locate a 7.25 7bolt fwd twindisk flywheel clutchmaster..
Mine (knew beforehand it would happen eventually - stock bottom end ca18det)..stretched rod bolts -> big end bearing loses oil film and starts to heat up due friction -> rod bolts completely fail -> rod fliess towards the cylinder head and smashes the piston to a thousand pieces -> crank hits the free rod towards the engine block and makes a huge hole -> engine seizes all happened at 8000rpm @ 250kph in under 5 seconds ;p
Great video👍🏽. If you don't mind me asking ...What kind of oil do you use? Did I missed that on the video? Thanks.
Great video. What type of oil did you usually use in this 2jz motor?
We were gonna run it at 1k but things kinda happened lol.
haha whoopsie
Nice, very nice
Awesome video! What brand of bearing do u use? Acl race?
Check out Project Farm's video on oil testing. Depending on what brand engine oil you use it may change your mind on what you are using. Enjoy the channel.
What wrench is he using to lock the cams, looks like the perfect wrench for 2j cams :D
2jz, no shit.
Was this an oem crank also!?!?! 😮
Thanks for all the educational videos. Definitely helped me be more informative when I re-built my s54 engine off my m3. I have a question regarding oil consumption, is there an email I can reach you at?
Clarence Trinidad jay@realstreetperformance.com
Great video got me in hot spot thinking ihave a VW 1600 engine that had a worn out oil ring but I dnt know how to diagnose if I turned a bearing if my Crankshaft if damaged if the rods needs replacement how do I diagnose if the crank needs to be cut o what
can wrong rod bearing clearance also have the same outcome as a engine that's seen detonation?
Didnt u guys just upload this same video last week?
Daniel Moore, That Racing Channel uploaded it on their channel last week. Now we made it public on our account. Thanks for watching
@@realstreetperformance ahh makes sense. I was confused on what was going on.
how much would it cost to rebuild my 2jzge
Shoot me an email at sales@realstreetperformance.com and I’ll try to help you narrow down a budget
What sort of oil pressure were you seeing before removal?
On those main friction components that failed, were they just untreated parts or were they put thru any treatment processes to reduce friction?
I disassemble my d15 honda engine and on my rod bearings on the upper bearing hole has some material of bearing removed....like the oil pressure flakes the bearing around the oil hole....what cause this?
can you leave me the link for the Testing/dyno video when the engine failed Jay? that is if you have a video
We were not actually filming anything when the engine picked up a noise. It never had a spectacular failure that you could see on camera. We just started to hear a noise so we turned it off and tore it down.
I have a 7 bolt 4g36 eng the transmission isn't changing gears right I've replaced everything new my eng isn't running right and then it does like a dream and then it is hard to start it says masflow is bad egr valve is stuck it's new map sencer is not working properly I can wigel the wires and reset codes and it will either run right or like not have power no acceleration like the mass flow air sensor is bad then I can reset the codes and it'll run like a dream sometimes it says the A and B solenoid in the transmission is bad they are brand new do you know the corporate of what my problem is and if so can you help me out it is a 2001 2.4 liter Kia Optima
Hi, I have a problem, in the new engine I bought to my car, unfortunately a foreign metal piece ( 5mmX5mmX5mm) has fallen on top of the 4th piston. Had run around 30kms and at last removed it. Few indents in piston crown and head. No valves damaged. But still there is a small knocking kind of noise coming inside. Could you please tell me what should I do? I am planning to replace only that piston having assumed that there may be a small bend in the rod or damaged bearings. Shall I just do it and check ? or remove entire engine and inspect all parts? Thanks...
What size wrench is used to hold the cam in place while breaking lose the cam gear bolts? I can't seem to find an answer for this anywhere. I don't want to use an adjustable wrench... I've had bad luck with them stripping bolts/nuts, etc. Is the fixed wrench size 31mm or 32mm?
So heres a question, I just rebuilt a motor in a car. It had been run low on oil and the rod bearings were on their way out. Motor knocked for a sec on startup before the oil pump catched up then it was fine. With the new rod bearings in it runs much better but I'm still hearing some noise when it's cold. What are the odds that when it was run low on oil the main bearings went bad. What does an engine with bad main bearings but good rod bearings sound like? Thanks!
Jay what would you recommend as for crank main bearing and conrod bearing clearance? For a daily drive 600hp?
i have some qs about my 1zzfe engine, how to reach out to you ?
i watch this, go out for a drive and... blew my motor WTF lol
Jeffrey Lyons lol oh no. Email me at parts@realstreetperformance.com and we can get you a quote for rebuild parts
This comment might be so useless, my 2j was on the dyno just last night and everything went great apart from noticing detonation clues on two plugs at one of the pulls. Please tell me I have nothing to worry about and not to overthink, I mean jz’s can stand one detonation accident don’t they
To put your mind at ease it may be worth popping your oil pan off and removing a rod bearing cap to check out the bearings. If you see wear at the bottom half of the cap/bearing compared to the rest of the bearing its a good indication that detonation force was hammering downward and wearing your bearings prematurely.
Is it possible to have a detonation event that destroys a rod bearing but there is no evidence of detonation on the piston crown?
I would imagine that the rod bearing takes the hit first. That's how my engine looks, rod bearings have obvious detonation wear but the top of the piston is relatively fine aside from some ring land burns.
What fuel were you testing
crazy how much abuse this took...
I have a question on a stock 5.2 magnum cam failure.
I am wondering what caused this damage, the roller lifter, pushrod and valve were all fine, just this one lobe seemed to be disintegrating.
Here is a link to a vid showing it.
(If that's ok, if not just delete this post.)
👍
ua-cam.com/video/YsmPxCQu5mU/v-deo.html
Jgb .....
Can you adopt me and be my dad
real street whats your thoughts? here is a video of what happened to my engine ua-cam.com/video/slOuDmFe0m4/v-deo.html
Most will think it was an oiling issue when they see spun bearings. Detonation doesn't hide itself. This engine is a good example of what small amounts of detonation will do overtime.
What rods where utilized in that engine?
Those were Brian Crower HD H-Beams with 625+ rod bolts www.realstreetperformance.com/brian-crower-hd-heavy-duty-bc625-h-beam-rods-supra-2jz-mk4.html