I wonder if we can get some scientists to test the happiness level in people like you who make stuff or repair things. It really seems to me like you people are happier in a good way. You seem to be part of some sort of benevolent tribe with a secret and really not very intent to keep the secret to yourself. You never mention it but you do seem to happier and spread thet happiness around, in this case, sanding a piece of wood. Its calming and inspiring and reaffirms my faith in humanity. So thank you and have a good day.
If you find that a tool makes your fingers tingle, throw it away and get one that doesn't vibrate. Once you've developed HAVS (Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome, previously known as Vibration White Finger), the damage is permanent, and the longer you use vibrating tools, the worse it gets. Also, dust masks: the paper sort as seen in this video are really not very good. Work with dirty dust, and you'll find evidence of it when you blow your nose, meaning it's got through the mask. I use a mask with replaceable "press-to-check" filter cartridges, and will never go back to the cheaper types.
@@Solid_Jackson Excellent. What's your professional advice regarding HAVS? Have you come across it in many patients? I know from experience (many years in industry, using tools that vibrated) how bad it can be, but I'm sure you can add something from your own experience as a medical expert.
@@northernworks glad to see someone talk about the bad safety gear😬 lab technician here, because of the toxicity of the substances handled, I have to wear my filter mask at all times while inside the lab. So not only do I have theoretical knowledge but quite a bit of personal experience with many different masks. For woodworking (no toxins or solvents), I would recommend getting a moldex 8000 half mask (that's what I personally use), the direct particle filter adapters and p3r (reusable category 3 particle filters, reusable meaning good for multiple session) particle filters. Its good quality, really comfortable with low resistance and the filters are really affordable. Remember to change the particle filters when breathing resistance is getting high/ is increasing rapidly. You can also use it to spray paint/ finish stuff if you want, just make sure to use a general purpose filter (abek 1 or 2), filter adapters and p3r filters on top (this setup filters particles as well as solvents and other chemicals in consumer products).
@@northernworksyou should use gel gloves with vibrating tools too, or impact gloves when using impact tools. It'll save you from a lot of pain later on in life . Also I've subscribed keep up the content
Used to be a spray painter at a local workshop. I did more or less all of the finishing and restorations there. In this case I would use a steel card scraper. If its sharp and well maintained, it would take you maximum 40-50 min to do the entire surface. Sanding old finish is almost always pretty time consuming, and can be more costly, since you go can potentially go trough a lot of sanding paper, and if youre a professional woodworker time is money, for sure! Put some force into the scraper as you work, try to bend it a little bit to create an parabole to the surface youre scraping. (The scraper will get really hot so wear gloves!) I usually put my thumbs in the middle and flex the ends backwards to create a bow when Im scraping forwards, when/if I scrape backwards I try to fold the card the other way again, so you are trying to bow it slightly in the direction you are scraping. Not the same, but kind of when you are using a hand plane, push at a slight angle, instead of pushing at a straight angle into the workpiece. Good luck!
Scrapers are fast and efficient if properly used - once you get used to them. depending on the job I also wet the surface with stripper (diluted or not - depending) etc etc. Was working on a flat surface on a 1934 yacht's deck with a scraper like that and the boat yard owner came over and told me to stop "stroking" the wood and to put some welly into it. He took the scraper to show me how and immediately gouged a great big deep scratch into the 8o year old deck !! Just goes to show. You have to know what you are doing and NOT try and speed things up too much unless you know what you are doing. I managed to get a free weeks rent of the space in his workshop off the bill for that great big gouge and have since replaced the damaged timber.
@@Team33Team33 A 'know it all' may have learnt something with that bit of vandalism, but sometimes you have to take it on the chin. Hopefully his shame brought him up in the world to be humbler and observe for a while rather than rudely take charge and ruin things. [he could have asked if you were relaxing, or if you could work faster on the task at hand]
Years ago i bought a veritas card scraper holder amd it really changed using them for me! No more tired thumbs and its adjustable too so you can het different finishes on the peice, i really recommend them
Loved it Thankyou. I left Liverpool 74 yrs ago to Land down Under. My issue is effective mask...have however discovered scrapers. My kitchen floor was epoxied 30yr ago and I wasn’t keen on dust through the house so a got best scrapers the Swedes make and got it all done. Over a week or two mind but no swirl marks and bright Cypress pine kitchen again. I laid same timber through whole house but not going to scrape it! Just always remove shoes and so far all is sweet.
Adequate DIYer here. 1) I'd start with a cabinet scraper to remove the existing finish and stop the medium clogging, glad you went there. (if it does clog, a quick go over on rubber usually helps - eg old boot soles) 2) A decent sander is a good investment as a cheap one is bad for your hands if it vibrates like a Miss Whiplash special. It should also see you out. 3) Gloves help with vibration transmission dampening even further. 4) One vac is a must. Two is better - one to connect to the sander, the second to filter the environment. Subscribed.
Hi Pete, after many years of the joys of sanding, I recently upgraded my sander and started using the mesh disks ( I already have a shop vac for dust extraction). So watching your video, i have to say you are spot on with your observations. I took some time to take the leap, primarily due to the cost, but the difference was remarkable. i am working my way through our internal doors, and the upgrade brought the job of sanding back the old finish from over an hour per door to around 20 minutes, and that was to complete both sides!!! Keep them coming Mate, you nailed this one. 😁😁
Wow, that basically means that you 'earn back' your tools in one go doing all your doors! Thanks for this extra information, I'm procrastinating on sanding & painting the trim boards covering the drains around the roof (many m2), but the outlook of relatively fast sanding may just persuade me to start :)
Thanks for that. Make your own card/cabinet scrapers by cutting up old wood saws. They come with a straight edge on the back, they're springy and you can cut to the size and shape you need easily with an angle grinder and file.
@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement Yeah, 'innovation is the mother of invention'! Besides, although the new saw is 12 bux it'll cost more time and money getting it rather than using some mind thoughting powered by beer to check the new developed tool... sheds help too ;)
Scrapers giving the best surface because their cutting angle is 0. (Source I am a 50yo cabinet maker) Sanding gives you nice finish because the dust fills up the pores. When you stain or varnis you will put moisture on the wood raising up the flattened tiny spliners, that's why you will have to go back with a 240 paper and sand it slightly by hand (take off the rough) after the first coat of varnish. Second coat will be like a glass.
Best glass finishes I've achieved on mahogany furniture or even yacht hulls is (as many coats of varnish as you want; in order to get the thickness right) to lightly sand the last varnished coat down once it's been left to harden to get the shine back to matt and then prepare a pot/solution of 50% diluted varnish which is almost like water Then apply this solution on with a roller and immediately stroke over with a large floppy paintbrush. The finish is mirror like and there is so much thinners in it that it dries almost instantly. Thick ness is in the prior coats; finish is the wafer thin last layer. I did this with a 33 ft cold molded wooden mahogany yacht and even the boat yard came out to look at themselves in the finished product ! They achieved factored in the time it took for each coat of varnish to dry seeing the prices they charged for that finish !!! ( to be honest the boats were taking up all their workshop space) and were surprised to see someone else get the same standard of finish that they always boast only THEY could achieve 🙂
Just to clarify @szita2000's remarks, because I found this "raises the grain" topic fairly hard to understand a few years back: The wood fibers will absorb the liquid of the stain or varnish and swell, unevenly, which will result in your formerly smooth surface no longer being smooth. That's why all of the articles and tutorials and such say to sand again in between coats. The stain will sink in deeper than the wood that a light sanding will expose, so when you're done, you'll have a stained surface that is once again smooth.
I need to sand and treat an Ercol dining table I have... my nephew's dog scratched it when she got up on it to look out the window... I have been nervous to do it as not knowing how to start... what varnish would you recommend please?
I was told many years ago that after sanding you should wet the surface to raise the grain, then rub down with coarse wire wool. I've never had cause to do it, but now 40 years later I need to restore an old kitchen table. Does that make any sense to you?
Growing up in the custom car scene. Dad started me out with sanding; then taping, etc etc... So, now @ 51 sanding is therapeutic for me.... It's a great way to let your mind escape from the worlds madness. Thanks for the upload! 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Sanding, buffing, doing the dishes by hand - anything that slows the body down, slow the mind too. It really is a great way to "meditate" and achieve something practical at the same time :)
Good video. Another little-known advantage of adding the vacuum is how it cools the sandpaper, allowing it to be more effective and last longer by not gumming up. It also provides cooling to the power sander. Glad to see you using ear protection especially with both the sander and the vacuum running. I was dumb and didn't do that, I do now.
Hi Pete - I loved the video and your wit, great fun! You get a 👍 and a sub! I’m 64 and I remember my old woodworking teacher, 50 years ago, telling us that if we wanted to be proficient woodworkers, we should learn to use a scraper. He even showed us how to sharpen it - if I can remember. He was someone who preferred to do everything by hand. I’m not sure how good electric sanders were, or if orbital sanders were around then but he didn’t like them, “Too much clean-up!”, he used to say. He even used a hand-drill if he was making holes and I’ve never forgotten how sharp his drill bits were! Everything he made was immaculate. I look forward to watching more of your handiwork. Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
I'm a big fan of cabinet scrapers, both for wood surface prep, and for finish smoothing between coats. In many situations they are faster and easier than sanding. It does take a little experience learning to sharpen them quickly and easily, but it's well worth the hour or so of experimentation.
When I apprenticed with a luthier years ago, one of the first things he showed me was his method for making multiple variations of wood scrapers. These were always made by hand with slight variations in the edge. A straight chisel edge can cleanly cut across the grain. A slightly angled edge sharpened and the cutting edge is almost folded over from flat 180 degrees to about 120 degree for a clean draw with a trailing edge on the scraper, or give the contact edge tight bend in the direction of the draw, so as you draw the edge across the work with the scraper body almost parallel to the work surface for a draw as if pulling a paint brush across the work surface with the cutting edge contacting the wood surface with just enough hard curl of the edge to cut cleanly ( like on a Stanley wood plane pushed forward) as the tool is drawn pressed to the work surface. The size of the cutting edge folded degree if sharpness can be fine tuned for different dimensional requirements and material hardness for efficient precise material removal yielding a near finish ready surface. A wide range of sculpting in a controlled, effective manner working with a wide range of materials. To be able to on the fly, visualize a needed tool and with basic common materials fabricate and fine tune to a purpose highly effective efficient tools. It was an eye opening experience for a young aspiring craftsman. Prior to those lessons , I thought tools were designed and made for us to acquire and utilize. Now many years later, more often than not, some task will provide inspiration and motivation, which in turn spawn innovation and creation. I learned many valuable lessons during my aporentice training, but the simple scraper opened my mind to a different, more self-reliant, D.I.Y. approach, which has been a beneficial outlook, approach, and outcome for many of life's changing dynamics. The ONLY thing that never changes,,, is the fact of life that EVERYTHING CHANGES.
If you want to really see about speeding things up with a card scraper, have two of them. One with an aggressive burr, and one with a fine burr - just like how handplanes are used. By doing this I really don't mind sanding as pretty much I only sand to prep for the finish, after raising grain, and sometimes smoothing out end grain. Of course on a really large surface, an aggressive grit sanding then clean up with card scraper or plane is prudent. I have a cabinet scraper that works pretty good for this also, but honestly on large surfaces sanding can get good results quickly especially with grain that fights a plane.
Great video, I remember being taught how to build guitars many moons ago at London guildhall and sanding tended to be frowned upon in many of the usual finishing situations. They tended to prefer the card scraper as it didn’t tend to clog up the wood grain which stayed with me. Flat scarpers tend to be staple for many people but I have a number of different shaped ones which are amazing at doing convex etc. I still have my original card scraper that I still use regularly after 30 years! It takes only a second to sharpen it. There are not many people that can say the same about a piece of sand paper of a sander 😂
We have the very same table and the surface finish degraded within months, even though we don't have kids or dogs. We do have ketchup sometimes though, but that hasn't made much of an impact. I once had to refinish a glued-strip beech worktop that had some sort of nasty sticky substance on the top. I suspected raw linseed oil that had been over-applied and the excess not removed. White spirit would have softened it but the stink in the house was too much to bear. All the sandpapers I tried clogged instantly so I bought a cabinet scraper. It did the job brilliantly and even helped remove most of a nasty black (iron?) stain. It also made me feel a teeny bit like I knew what I was doing! Useful and interesting video - thanks for making it.
You’ve got to watch out for that ketchup… Yeah, I’ve been disappointed with the table - it’s a nice design, but the quality wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. Now I know a bit more about designing and making my own furniture I can understand why that table is how it is, but I’m glad I now have the skills to maintain it. I thought about grabbing a cabinet scraper for this - I reckon it would have made light work of the old finish. Do you get much use out of it?
@@northernworks We bought matching chairs and they've steadily fallen apart which is hugely disappointing. The scraper was excellent for the worktop and a bargain at about £15. I have used it a bit since and am considering getting the appropriate steel to help create that all important burr. I expect it to get more use when I get going on our kitchen project. I haven't found much use for it lately since I'm fitting out a shower room and digging drains outside.
This video couldn't have come at a better time. Just started to sand off my dining table and was having a nightmare with my cheap sander. I didn't bother with a vacuum and thought I had to press really hard. I need to finish it off over the weekend so I'll be using your tips for sure! Thanks
Card scrapers are the way to go once you get the hang of them, and you can make them quite easily yourself. What I would recommend you is to try and make a scraper out of a snap-off blade (you can find the how-to on a channel called grinwood) You just make a simple holder for the blade, run it on a sharpening stone a couple of times and you are ready to go. It way more comfortable the trying to bend regular cardscraper and I tend to get finer shavings.
After years of cabinet scraping and hand sanding to finish off, my finger joints are knackered. I love a cabinet scraper but my hands at 52 years old don’t
Woodworker here, been using net sanding disks and a basic shop vac for years now so I never understood why everyone was having such a miserable time with sanding. After seeing your first couple of results, I finally understand! It seems an awful lot of people are literally doing it wrong.
I bought a workshop vacuum, then got waste pipe, elbows etc. and run pipes round to various points in my workshop, added flexi hose to the ends so can be attached to tools, just put a piece of card over the hose thats not in use, amazing how much cleaner the workshop stays.
VERY interesting video and very well edited not to wasting people's time. Thanks. Card scrapers are really good if you are doing a flat surface like a table top. But I still sand the whole surface afterwards to get best results. mild paint remover or even warm soap and water together with a scraper get excellent results too. Wet the surface with the remover (diluted) or warm soap and water then wait until it's almost dry and scrape. All the surface grime and first layer of wood come off with no dust. Just a small pile of wet "dust" that can easily be wiped away with a paper cloth. Then let the surface dry thoroughly. If you're in a hurry dry it with a hair dryer. It's down to personal preference, but hard wax oil ? I use matt marine varnish. two coats. Takes a week-end but my table tops have lasted twenty years like that and all they ever need is a wet wipe.
I enjoyed it! My grandfather was a woodworker. I've done small projects, and I've watched my dad and other remodel their basements, so I learned some things from that exposure.
I guess for you it's probably not a big deal at all bc. you might live there, but I am always excited when I discover a nice video in *_British English!_* ❤ It's the "original English" we learn in school in Germany. It sounds nicer (i.m.o.) and most of all it is (got) so rare in public/international media. So to me it's sth. special and I love it. ❤ It's soothing & satisfying.
That's nice of you to say so, but bear in mind he has a distinct northern England accent, and not the Received Pronunciation (ie posher) taught to people learning English.
I like that you TRY different techniques, etc. to find the best way to do something (in this case sanding). Masking your tabletop into 4 quadrants to try different approaches is interesting, informative and helpful ! Nice doggy too. 🙂
Fantastic video. My take away is that as a non professional I do not need to buy a expensive sander. A few more minutes and a little more dust is no big deal If I'm only sanding a few times a year.
Keep an eye out for used B&D, DeWalt 4011 finishing sanders, new now known as Porter Cable 380 (all those brands now owned by Stanley). You can find them used at flea markets, garage sales, etc.. Parts are still available as they were the top finishing sander for over 30 years, and quickest at removal of wood from the surfaces, even beat 1/2 sheet sanders. Google for pictures. Lowest vibration, too.
Great video! It's good to learn from others when it's so well presented. I'll definitely try the mesh sanding pads on my Makita sander and have a go with a card scraper. On the dust extraction I cannot agree more. I'm a builder and I have bought dust extraction fittings for all my power tools that cut, grind or sand. Nothing worse than working in a cloud of muck!
Thanks for doing the hard graft with your tests. I've reverted to hand sanding several times because the DIY sander was so useless. Now I need to put a filtered vacuum on my Christmas list...£££ (cheap vacuum just redistributes the dust from the vent!)
I really enjoyed your video and learned so much. I’ll never send again without a vacuum hooked up. Thank you for your time in trouble and I look forward to future videos. 😊👍🏻
TIP: My late grandfather (a professional painter/restaurateur of Chinese lacquer) used smoothly curved shards of glass from broken window panes as scrapers❗
I was told the same thing to remove paint off a chair in order to see the metallic stencil design under the paint. I was told about that technique over 50 years ago !
DIY fanatic here; I just wasted time watching the video, get to the end and bingo! his 'upgrade' is a new Makita sander, all my tools are now Makita, years of long struggle to save up for each one though well worth the pain, BUT to have Pete? tell you to upgrade to an expensive Makita version of the one you own is going to be deflating and maddening, you've been warned, so watch at your own peril.
+1 on the card scraper. The steepest learning curve is sharpening them. Once you've mastered that, the finish is so much better (and quicker) than sanding.
We used a cabinet scraper to remove finish (varnish, wax...) from boats and cabinets. Usualy pulled them across the surface which for some reason makes the scarper less likely to dig in.
Thanks for the great sanding tips. I know this was a sanding video but I would have loved to hear a little more about the finish you applied, and why you chose that particular finish for this application.
Pro tip to anyone attempting sanding their table down. Ensure you know whether it’s veneered or solid timber. It’s very easy to sand straight through modern veneers as they are so thin, if you do that you are in a whole heap of trouble.
I've got Northern Calif black walnut in my yard so I bought a mill. I just began sanding pieces. I begin with 40 to 80 grit and end with 1200grit. So far. the farther you go the better it looks. I discovered Cubitron II and it lasts much longer than anything else I use. Now I'm going to get a scraper. I have much wood to polish. I post videos of my experiences. Juglans Hindsii is the cats meow of all varieties of walnut
One thing I found changing to mesh discs was there was too much suction. My sander would get sucked into the wood and bog down. I had to make a bleed port in the hose
I just tried the mesh style paper for cutting down Bondo for cars. It cleans out so much better and with that, the life span is a little better. Plus, I don't have to create trash as quickly because I can use it again with other sanding projects. Far as the sanders- being I'm working from home. I have both electric sanders and air sanders... Either type, I prefer a sander that has variable speed.....the trigger style. This way I can slow down/speed up the machine with ease.
Excellent video! Had often heard of using dust extraction for the sake of the dust, but it's new to learn that it actually improves the performance. Great tip!
Upgrading to high end sanders and dust extractor is one of the biggest upgrades you can make in woodworking imo. Just makes everything easier and better.
I love the way you think mate. You do experiments and you even use older tech I have never heard of. Wow, I am subscribed just because of that! Keep up the good work!
A dust extractor is a MUST, not only for sanding. Invest at least into a decent one for around $200 instead of buying a crappy one and a decent one some month later (like I did ...). And you're right with using a mesh sanding disk instead of a regular one, but it is also important what kind of abrasive used: try the 3M Cubitron II mesh sanding disks and find out how much better they are even compared to Bosch mesh disks.
Fully agree for daily users and professional but if you are a casual d I y er that may only use the tool once a year then a very cheap one is usually quite sufficient.
When you use your sander only once a year, you‘re likely not building furniture or anything else with wood that requires a finish. Or you build one piece per year only. I would call myself a casual DIYer and I use the sander approx once per month. Absolutely worth the extra $50 (got a Makita BO5041 for ~$120). And a good dust extractor will also reduce the mess with you other tools (hand/track saw, router, miter saw) for probably $100 extra.
scrapers take a bit of skill to sharpen and use, but give great results, i recommend a holder to save your thumbs, id use a lower count grit at the start to get the finish off, and yes there are huge differences in quality of sandpaper. dust collection is a must. cheers
I use a Bosch and what I’ve found is changing the sanding base plate depending on grits works wonders. Hardest for low grits and softest for highest. Pad savers are a must too if I’m using mesh, which 3M Cubitron is an absolute game changer. As for dust collection, dust deputy (or the equivalent) makes sanding way more pleasant.
Great video! I can't say I'm really surprised by the results, but it does at least give me an excuse to save up for a Mirka and a good dust extractor. Subscribed!
If you want to avoid time, use a angle grinder, adapted with a wood disc to hold the sand paper, they are DIY projects, also, can control the speed with a dimer, integrated or external dimer, can't conect a vacum, but that is very very quick and can later do just a final sanding with the normal sanding tool. The grinder also has 2 handles and is easy to control.
just sanded 120 sqm of vertical cladding, it took me about 70sqm to realise the benefits of duct taping a henry hoover (with bag) to the exhaust port of my orbital..... saves times, dust and pads..... extraction is top dog
This was the first one of your videos that I've seen. Brilliantly informative, easy to understand, and well presented. Given a thumbs up and subscribed.
Try a direct drive sander next and you will be twice as quick (like Festool Rotex line). The rotation of orbitals slows with downward pressure, direct drive just keep spinning. They are more aggressive because of this so you need to be careful but the Festool Rotex ones also have a switch to pop them over to orbital. You can actually use the same grit paper in some cases by direct driving first to strip the paint/varnish then switch to orbital and use light pressure to for a smoother finish. We actually use a Rotex 150 then swap over to a dedicated orbital that is lighter (FESTOOL ETS EC 150) because it's a joy to use and gives lovely results. All are on dust extraction which also saves on sandpaper as it doesn't get as clogged with extraction. They aren't cheap but if it is your business or you are a home handyman doing a lot it will pay for itself in time saved very quickly. Or buy one for a job and sell it at the end, they hold their value really well. Re: sandpaper. The mesh ones are superior for dust extraction but aren's as strong so don't last as long if sanding rough things or up against edges. Really good for plaster though which can be a dust nightmare without good sandpaper (mesh paper) and extraction. For wood, we mainly use paper. Also, choose your grit correctly and don't try and use one or two for everything (despite comment above!) Also, don't use household vac, you'll ruin it. We use Festool vacs like NW here but we also have just a cheap shop vac which is just as good just a bit more noisy. The Festool vacs also have bluetooth to turn them on and off which is great when using battery powered sanders. HEPA filters are a good idea too and blowback vacs for plaster.
Interesting video with an interesting and educational concept. Keith from rag n bone brown has used a card scraper for years. I can vouch for dust extraction making a considerable difference. When i sanded down the living room woodwork, adding extraction massively sped up the process and sanding pads lasted way longer. Another hit Pete 👍
Good test, great info. I like to do some hand sanding with the grain in between some of the grit changes and inspect. I think Stumpy should watch this.
So right, chuck. Reducing sand paper friction from dust with an extractor makes every common sense fibre in my body tingle. Simple logic and well exampled on your sample. Simples!
Very enjoyable video! Not seen any of yours before so thought I’d give this a try. Very good presentation and nice friendly manner, and both informative and entertaining. Subscribed and will def be back for more. 👍🏻
I clicked on this because I have the same Black & Decker sander. 'Sandstorm'. I concur that it is loud and harsh. I have always wanted it to have variable speed. Unfortunately the foam Velcro disc has broken and I don't know where to get a new one. its method of attachment is unique and other brands don't fit it. So I bought a Ryobi instead, which has variable speed. The best part was it was one of the old blue ones, on clearance for $30. I like the old blue Ryobi tools. My favourite is the Circular saw. When the armature blew, I sourced a new one, which was apparently the last one left in Australia. Yes! If you think this post is a stream of consciousness load of drivel you are probably right.
When I was doing the casework for pipe organs, we were not allowed to sand. Sandpaper was made illegal to use in the shop. All wood was hand planed or scraped. The finish was unlike any I'd ever seen,. Sanding cannot compare with actually sheering the wood fibers with a sharp blade.
I have to say I love the card scrapers. We had a bit of sunshine for two days here in Ireland and I spent an evening out in the garden sharpening all mine. Very satisfying especially when I got to use them on a set of mid century dining chairs that I got a while back on fb marketplace. Haven't tried the mesh sanding discs yet but I must do. Great video. Looking forward to seeing the table video as that's next on my hitlist too.
I love sanding, it's an art. Especially by hand without an electric sander... Understanding sanding, you have to feel, watch, listen apply the right pressure, use the proper backing ( hard or soft) to what the sandpaper is doing, depending on what the characteristics of the wood . And the quality and brand of sandpaper needs to be learned too. Some are good some are bad. Sanding definitely is a learning process I rarely throw out used sandpaper because as the grit wears down it becomes less abrasive it can be used as a "smoothing" the surface depending on what needs to be done.
Still have a quarter sheet Black & Decker 4011 professional sander, made in the year of the flood; had dust collection way back when, and low vibration. Beat the half sheet sanders in amount of wood removal in tests. Still works fine, and of course a finishing sander leaves no swirls from the orbital movement of orbital sanders. After Stanley purchased B&D, and then DeWalt, it sold for about 20 years as a DeWalt brand; now still sold but Stanley corp changed the brand again, so now it's a Porter-Cable 380. Only difference is the color of the plastic, from gray to yellow, then back to gray. Still top rated last time I checked. I have to say, I prefer the gray. I don't know if newer ones are better, but when I bought mine back around 1990, it was the top rated finishing sander. I can't recommend this sander enough. Even bought it to give for Christmas presents.
Wickes shop vac - £40. Mine has lasted for years, doubles a compressor/blower too. Link it up with a cyclone and the filter will only need cleaning twice a year.
I wonder if we can get some scientists to test the happiness level in people like you who make stuff or repair things. It really seems to me like you people are happier in a good way. You seem to be part of some sort of benevolent tribe with a secret and really not very intent to keep the secret to yourself. You never mention it but you do seem to happier and spread thet happiness around, in this case, sanding a piece of wood. Its calming and inspiring and reaffirms my faith in humanity. So thank you and have a good day.
If you find that a tool makes your fingers tingle, throw it away and get one that doesn't vibrate. Once you've developed HAVS (Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome, previously known as Vibration White Finger), the damage is permanent, and the longer you use vibrating tools, the worse it gets. Also, dust masks: the paper sort as seen in this video are really not very good. Work with dirty dust, and you'll find evidence of it when you blow your nose, meaning it's got through the mask. I use a mask with replaceable "press-to-check" filter cartridges, and will never go back to the cheaper types.
I’ll check those out, thanks
Medical expert here
@@Solid_Jackson Excellent. What's your professional advice regarding HAVS? Have you come across it in many patients? I know from experience (many years in industry, using tools that vibrated) how bad it can be, but I'm sure you can add something from your own experience as a medical expert.
@@northernworks glad to see someone talk about the bad safety gear😬
lab technician here, because of the toxicity of the substances handled, I have to wear my filter mask at all times while inside the lab. So not only do I have theoretical knowledge but quite a bit of personal experience with many different masks.
For woodworking (no toxins or solvents), I would recommend getting a moldex 8000 half mask (that's what I personally use), the direct particle filter adapters and p3r (reusable category 3 particle filters, reusable meaning good for multiple session) particle filters. Its good quality, really comfortable with low resistance and the filters are really affordable. Remember to change the particle filters when breathing resistance is getting high/ is increasing rapidly.
You can also use it to spray paint/ finish stuff if you want, just make sure to use a general purpose filter (abek 1 or 2), filter adapters and p3r filters on top (this setup filters particles as well as solvents and other chemicals in consumer products).
@@northernworksyou should use gel gloves with vibrating tools too, or impact gloves when using impact tools. It'll save you from a lot of pain later on in life . Also I've subscribed keep up the content
Used to be a spray painter at a local workshop. I did more or less all of the finishing and restorations there. In this case I would use a steel card scraper. If its sharp and well maintained, it would take you maximum 40-50 min to do the entire surface. Sanding old finish is almost always pretty time consuming, and can be more costly, since you go can potentially go trough a lot of sanding paper, and if youre a professional woodworker time is money, for sure!
Put some force into the scraper as you work, try to bend it a little bit to create an parabole to the surface youre scraping. (The scraper will get really hot so wear gloves!) I usually put my thumbs in the middle and flex the ends backwards to create a bow when Im scraping forwards, when/if I scrape backwards I try to fold the card the other way again, so you are trying to bow it slightly in the direction you are scraping. Not the same, but kind of when you are using a hand plane, push at a slight angle, instead of pushing at a straight angle into the workpiece. Good luck!
Scrapers are fast and efficient if properly used - once you get used to them.
depending on the job I also wet the surface with stripper (diluted or not - depending) etc etc.
Was working on a flat surface on a 1934 yacht's deck with a scraper like that and the boat yard owner came over and told me to stop "stroking" the wood and to put some welly into it.
He took the scraper to show me how and immediately gouged a great big deep scratch into the 8o year old deck !!
Just goes to show. You have to know what you are doing and NOT try and speed things up too much unless you know what you are doing. I managed to get a free weeks rent of the space in his workshop off the bill for that great big gouge and have since replaced the damaged timber.
@@Team33Team33 A 'know it all' may have learnt something with that bit of vandalism, but sometimes you have to take it on the chin. Hopefully his shame brought him up in the world to be humbler and observe for a while rather than rudely take charge and ruin things.
[he could have asked if you were relaxing, or if you could work faster on the task at hand]
Years ago i bought a veritas card scraper holder amd it really changed using them for me! No more tired thumbs and its adjustable too so you can het different finishes on the peice, i really recommend them
Loved it Thankyou. I left Liverpool 74 yrs ago to Land down Under. My issue is effective mask...have however discovered scrapers. My kitchen floor was epoxied 30yr ago and I wasn’t keen on dust through the house so a got best scrapers the Swedes make and got it all done. Over a week or two mind but no swirl marks and bright Cypress pine kitchen again. I laid same timber through whole house but not going to scrape it! Just always remove shoes and so far all is sweet.
Adequate DIYer here.
1) I'd start with a cabinet scraper to remove the existing finish and stop the medium clogging, glad you went there. (if it does clog, a quick go over on rubber usually helps - eg old boot soles)
2) A decent sander is a good investment as a cheap one is bad for your hands if it vibrates like a Miss Whiplash special. It should also see you out.
3) Gloves help with vibration transmission dampening even further.
4) One vac is a must. Two is better - one to connect to the sander, the second to filter the environment.
Subscribed.
Hi Pete, after many years of the joys of sanding, I recently upgraded my sander and started using the mesh disks ( I already have a shop vac for dust extraction). So watching your video, i have to say you are spot on with your observations.
I took some time to take the leap, primarily due to the cost, but the difference was remarkable. i am working my way through our internal doors, and the upgrade brought the job of sanding back the old finish from over an hour per door to around 20 minutes, and that was to complete both sides!!!
Keep them coming Mate, you nailed this one.
😁😁
Cheers John, glad you’ve seen the benefit! Good to know they work in the long term too
Wow, that basically means that you 'earn back' your tools in one go doing all your doors!
Thanks for this extra information, I'm procrastinating on sanding & painting the trim boards covering the drains around the roof (many m2), but the outlook of relatively fast sanding may just persuade me to start :)
Thanks for that.
Make your own card/cabinet scrapers by cutting up old wood saws. They come with a straight edge on the back, they're springy and you can cut to the size and shape you need easily with an angle grinder and file.
You tried a wood rasp from old saws you don't want to re-sharpen yet? an Epic tool.
@@JT-si6bl it is not cost effective to resharpen wood saws. 2 for £12 (€15/$15) mass produced for big box DIY stores.
@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement And that's gonna help learn to adapt an old tool, repurposing, before the trash is the next stop?
@@JT-si6bl exactly, waste nothing, repurpose what you can, recycle what you can't.
@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement Yeah, 'innovation is the mother of invention'! Besides, although the new saw is 12 bux it'll cost more time and money getting it rather than using some mind thoughting powered by beer to check the new developed tool... sheds help too ;)
Scrapers giving the best surface because their cutting angle is 0. (Source I am a 50yo cabinet maker) Sanding gives you nice finish because the dust fills up the pores.
When you stain or varnis you will put moisture on the wood raising up the flattened tiny spliners, that's why you will have to go back with a 240 paper and sand it slightly by hand (take off the rough) after the first coat of varnish. Second coat will be like a glass.
Best glass finishes I've achieved on mahogany furniture or even yacht hulls is (as many coats of varnish as you want; in order to get the thickness right) to lightly sand the last varnished coat down once it's been left to harden to get the shine back to matt and then prepare a pot/solution of 50% diluted varnish which is almost like water
Then apply this solution on with a roller and immediately stroke over with a large floppy paintbrush.
The finish is mirror like and there is so much thinners in it that it dries almost instantly.
Thick ness is in the prior coats; finish is the wafer thin last layer.
I did this with a 33 ft cold molded wooden mahogany yacht and even the boat yard came out to look at themselves in the finished product !
They achieved factored in the time it took for each coat of varnish to dry seeing the prices they charged for that finish !!! ( to be honest the boats were taking up all their workshop space) and were surprised to see someone else get the same standard of finish that they always boast only THEY could achieve 🙂
Just to clarify @szita2000's remarks, because I found this "raises the grain" topic fairly hard to understand a few years back:
The wood fibers will absorb the liquid of the stain or varnish and swell, unevenly, which will result in your formerly smooth surface no longer being smooth. That's why all of the articles and tutorials and such say to sand again in between coats. The stain will sink in deeper than the wood that a light sanding will expose, so when you're done, you'll have a stained surface that is once again smooth.
I need to sand and treat an Ercol dining table I have... my nephew's dog scratched it when she got up on it to look out the window... I have been nervous to do it as not knowing how to start... what varnish would you recommend please?
@lesleyfrench4182 Two or three coats of Osmo hard wax oil applied with a white scuff pad and then excess wiped of with a clean cotton rag.
I was told many years ago that after sanding you should wet the surface to raise the grain, then rub down with coarse wire wool. I've never had cause to do it, but now 40 years later I need to restore an old kitchen table. Does that make any sense to you?
Growing up in the custom car scene. Dad started me out with sanding; then taping, etc etc... So, now @ 51 sanding is therapeutic for me.... It's a great way to let your mind escape from the worlds madness.
Thanks for the upload! 🤙🏻🤙🏻
That's me! My Dad did the same thing with me, I can sand and sand and sand, NO PROBLEM 😅
@@ronaldnorris3683 .... that's awesome! At the time I thought it was punishment 😂 but I'm glad he looked out for me!
Yeah- I have my best ideas whilst sanding
Sanding, buffing, doing the dishes by hand - anything that slows the body down, slow the mind too. It really is a great way to "meditate" and achieve something practical at the same time :)
@Croi_Fiain so true!
Good video. Another little-known advantage of adding the vacuum is how it cools the sandpaper, allowing it to be more effective and last longer by not gumming up. It also provides cooling to the power sander. Glad to see you using ear protection especially with both the sander and the vacuum running. I was dumb and didn't do that, I do now.
Lovely stuff, as a DIY enthusiast who loves real world data I actually learned something from this video which is something I don't often get to say.
Hi Pete - I loved the video and your wit, great fun! You get a 👍 and a sub! I’m 64 and I remember my old woodworking teacher, 50 years ago, telling us that if we wanted to be proficient woodworkers, we should learn to use a scraper. He even showed us how to sharpen it - if I can remember. He was someone who preferred to do everything by hand. I’m not sure how good electric sanders were, or if orbital sanders were around then but he didn’t like them, “Too much clean-up!”, he used to say. He even used a hand-drill if he was making holes and I’ve never forgotten how sharp his drill bits were! Everything he made was immaculate. I look forward to watching more of your handiwork. Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
I'm a big fan of cabinet scrapers, both for wood surface prep, and for finish smoothing between coats. In many situations they are faster and easier than sanding. It does take a little experience learning to sharpen them quickly and easily, but it's well worth the hour or so of experimentation.
So much more efficient when used properly and then you can finish off with a hand sand of light sanding machine for the perfect finish.
When I apprenticed with a luthier years ago, one of the first things he showed me was his method for making multiple variations of wood scrapers. These were always made by hand with slight variations in the edge. A straight chisel edge can cleanly cut across the grain. A slightly angled edge sharpened and the cutting edge is almost folded over from flat 180 degrees to about 120 degree for a clean draw with a trailing edge on the scraper, or give the contact edge tight bend in the direction of the draw, so as you draw the edge across the work with the scraper body almost parallel to the work surface for a draw as if pulling a paint brush across the work surface with the cutting edge contacting the wood surface with just enough hard curl of the edge to cut cleanly ( like on a Stanley wood plane pushed forward) as the tool is drawn pressed to the work surface. The size of the cutting edge folded degree if sharpness can be fine tuned for different dimensional requirements and material hardness for efficient precise material removal yielding a near finish ready surface. A wide range of sculpting in a controlled, effective manner working with a wide range of materials. To be able to on the fly, visualize a needed tool and with basic common materials fabricate and fine tune to a purpose highly effective efficient tools. It was an eye opening experience for a young aspiring craftsman. Prior to those lessons , I thought tools were designed and made for us to acquire and utilize. Now many years later, more often than not, some task will provide inspiration and motivation, which in turn spawn innovation and creation.
I learned many valuable lessons during my aporentice training, but the simple scraper opened my mind to a different, more self-reliant, D.I.Y. approach, which has been a beneficial outlook, approach, and outcome for many of life's changing dynamics.
The ONLY thing that never changes,,, is the fact of life that EVERYTHING CHANGES.
3m cubitron sand discs are a game changer. It's unbelievable how much better they work than anything else on the market.
If you want to really see about speeding things up with a card scraper, have two of them. One with an aggressive burr, and one with a fine burr - just like how handplanes are used. By doing this I really don't mind sanding as pretty much I only sand to prep for the finish, after raising grain, and sometimes smoothing out end grain. Of course on a really large surface, an aggressive grit sanding then clean up with card scraper or plane is prudent. I have a cabinet scraper that works pretty good for this also, but honestly on large surfaces sanding can get good results quickly especially with grain that fights a plane.
Great video, I remember being taught how to build guitars many moons ago at London guildhall and sanding tended to be frowned upon in many of the usual finishing situations. They tended to prefer the card scraper as it didn’t tend to clog up the wood grain which stayed with me. Flat scarpers tend to be staple for many people but I have a number of different shaped ones which are amazing at doing convex etc. I still have my original card scraper that I still use regularly after 30 years! It takes only a second to sharpen it. There are not many people that can say the same about a piece of sand paper of a sander 😂
I’m definitely doubling down on learning how to use it well - I love the finish of my planes and this scraper
Great video ! 10/10 on all fronts video quality ,audio quality , editing and most importantly informative and to the point !
If you pull the scraper instead of pushing, it works a lot better.
Each to their own. I get a better finish by pushing a card scraper. It's essential to keep it very sharp, and pay attention to the grain direction.
I never knew dust extraction would improve efficiency. Thanks for the tip!
@northernworks - Pete, you're a natural presenter. Well done.
He thinks his videos out, unlike other YT'ers. Doesn't waste your time.
We have the very same table and the surface finish degraded within months, even though we don't have kids or dogs. We do have ketchup sometimes though, but that hasn't made much of an impact.
I once had to refinish a glued-strip beech worktop that had some sort of nasty sticky substance on the top. I suspected raw linseed oil that had been over-applied and the excess not removed. White spirit would have softened it but the stink in the house was too much to bear. All the sandpapers I tried clogged instantly so I bought a cabinet scraper. It did the job brilliantly and even helped remove most of a nasty black (iron?) stain. It also made me feel a teeny bit like I knew what I was doing!
Useful and interesting video - thanks for making it.
You’ve got to watch out for that ketchup…
Yeah, I’ve been disappointed with the table - it’s a nice design, but the quality wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. Now I know a bit more about designing and making my own furniture I can understand why that table is how it is, but I’m glad I now have the skills to maintain it.
I thought about grabbing a cabinet scraper for this - I reckon it would have made light work of the old finish. Do you get much use out of it?
@@northernworks We bought matching chairs and they've steadily fallen apart which is hugely disappointing.
The scraper was excellent for the worktop and a bargain at about £15. I have used it a bit since and am considering getting the appropriate steel to help create that all important burr. I expect it to get more use when I get going on our kitchen project. I haven't found much use for it lately since I'm fitting out a shower room and digging drains outside.
This video couldn't have come at a better time. Just started to sand off my dining table and was having a nightmare with my cheap sander. I didn't bother with a vacuum and thought I had to press really hard. I need to finish it off over the weekend so I'll be using your tips for sure! Thanks
Let the sander do the work. If you press down you'll clog up your sand paper and wear out your sander, plus it won't be sanded evenly.
Card scrapers are the way to go once you get the hang of them, and you can make them quite easily yourself. What I would recommend you is to try and make a scraper out of a snap-off blade (you can find the how-to on a channel called grinwood) You just make a simple holder for the blade, run it on a sharpening stone a couple of times and you are ready to go. It way more comfortable the trying to bend regular cardscraper and I tend to get finer shavings.
After years of cabinet scraping and hand sanding to finish off, my finger joints are knackered. I love a cabinet scraper but my hands at 52 years old don’t
@@Kung_Fu_Jesus case in point, try making that holder for the snapoff blade, no pressure on the joints anymore.
Woodworker here, been using net sanding disks and a basic shop vac for years now so I never understood why everyone was having such a miserable time with sanding. After seeing your first couple of results, I finally understand! It seems an awful lot of people are literally doing it wrong.
I bought a workshop vacuum, then got waste pipe, elbows etc. and run pipes round to various points in my workshop, added flexi hose to the ends so can be attached to tools, just put a piece of card over the hose thats not in use, amazing how much cleaner the workshop stays.
VERY interesting video and very well edited not to wasting people's time. Thanks.
Card scrapers are really good if you are doing a flat surface like a table top. But I still sand the whole surface afterwards to get best results.
mild paint remover or even warm soap and water together with a scraper get excellent results too. Wet the surface with the remover (diluted) or warm soap and water then wait until it's almost dry and scrape. All the surface grime and first layer of wood come off with no dust. Just a small pile of wet "dust" that can easily be wiped away with a paper cloth. Then let the surface dry thoroughly. If you're in a hurry dry it with a hair dryer.
It's down to personal preference, but hard wax oil ? I use matt marine varnish. two coats. Takes a week-end but my table tops have lasted twenty years like that and all they ever need is a wet wipe.
I enjoyed it! My grandfather was a woodworker. I've done small projects, and I've watched my dad and other remodel their basements, so I learned some things from that exposure.
I guess for you it's probably not a big deal at all bc. you might live there, but I am always excited when I discover a nice video in *_British English!_* ❤
It's the "original English" we learn in school in Germany. It sounds nicer (i.m.o.) and most of all it is (got) so rare in public/international media.
So to me it's sth. special and I love it. ❤
It's soothing & satisfying.
That's nice of you to say so, but bear in mind he has a distinct northern England accent, and not the Received Pronunciation (ie posher) taught to people learning English.
I like that you TRY different techniques, etc. to find the best way to do something (in this case sanding). Masking your tabletop into 4 quadrants to try different approaches is interesting, informative and helpful ! Nice doggy too. 🙂
Fantastic video. My take away is that as a non professional I do not need to buy a expensive sander. A few more minutes and a little more dust is no big deal If I'm only sanding a few times a year.
Keep an eye out for used B&D, DeWalt 4011 finishing sanders, new now known as Porter Cable 380 (all those brands now owned by Stanley). You can find them used at flea markets, garage sales, etc.. Parts are still available as they were the top finishing sander for over 30 years, and quickest at removal of wood from the surfaces, even beat 1/2 sheet sanders. Google for pictures. Lowest vibration, too.
Great video! It's good to learn from others when it's so well presented. I'll definitely try the mesh sanding pads on my Makita sander and have a go with a card scraper. On the dust extraction I cannot agree more. I'm a builder and I have bought dust extraction fittings for all my power tools that cut, grind or sand. Nothing worse than working in a cloud of muck!
I learnt tons from that video. Cheers Pete and Archie 🐾
Thanks for doing the hard graft with your tests.
I've reverted to hand sanding several times because the DIY sander was so useless.
Now I need to put a filtered vacuum on my Christmas list...£££
(cheap vacuum just redistributes the dust from the vent!)
I love the cuts and angles you used on this video! Very effective and engaging!
To avoid many issues simply use a finish stripper and scrape off the residue, sand and refinish.
Were in a hurry and got a cheap sander. It had terrible vibrations so I taped some weights to it and it improved a lot.
Like your style of video, informative with a slight sense of 'taking the piss' (as we say in Oz). Keep up the good work.
I really enjoyed your video and learned so much. I’ll never send again without a vacuum hooked up. Thank you for your time in trouble and I look forward to future videos. 😊👍🏻
TIP: My late grandfather (a professional painter/restaurateur of Chinese lacquer) used smoothly curved shards of glass from broken window panes as scrapers❗
I was told the same thing to remove paint off a chair in order to see the metallic stencil design under the paint. I was told about that technique over 50 years ago !
Thank you for the very nice tutorial. Nice that you have taken the time to compare and explain. Very comfortable to view and listen!
Recently picked up a Makita sander, similar to yours, but 125mm. Thanks for the info, will be sure to hook up my vac when I use it next.
thanks Pete, I enjoy your style. Please can we have more of Archie!
DIY fanatic here; I just wasted time watching the video, get to the end and bingo! his 'upgrade' is a new Makita sander, all my tools are now Makita, years of long struggle to save up for each one though well worth the pain, BUT to have Pete? tell you to upgrade to an expensive Makita version of the one you own is going to be deflating and maddening, you've been warned, so watch at your own peril.
+1 on the card scraper. The steepest learning curve is sharpening them. Once you've mastered that, the finish is so much better (and quicker) than sanding.
We used a cabinet scraper to remove finish (varnish, wax...) from boats and cabinets. Usualy pulled them across the surface which for some reason makes the scarper less likely to dig in.
Was laughing at first when I saw the $40 toy orbital sander hooked up to a $600 shop vac.
Take a file to that scraper and watch it renovate every piece of wood in its path. Great vid. More please.
I love my Festool and I love my Bahco scraper! But for people who don't have a Festool, those are good tips!
Thanks for the great sanding tips. I know this was a sanding video but I would have loved to hear a little more about the finish you applied, and why you chose that particular finish for this application.
always thought dust extraction was a safety / clean thing had no idea would boost performance so much. cool video cheers
Pro tip to anyone attempting sanding their table down.
Ensure you know whether it’s veneered or solid timber. It’s very easy to sand straight through modern veneers as they are so thin, if you do that you are in a whole heap of trouble.
I've got Northern Calif black walnut in my yard so I bought a mill. I just began sanding pieces. I begin with 40 to 80 grit and end with 1200grit. So far. the farther you go the better it looks. I discovered Cubitron II and it lasts much longer than anything else I use. Now I'm going to get a scraper. I have much wood to polish. I post videos of my experiences. Juglans Hindsii is the cats meow of all varieties of walnut
One thing I found changing to mesh discs was there was too much suction. My sander would get sucked into the wood and bog down. I had to make a bleed port in the hose
Turning the sander rotation down worked for me, but if your vac is too powerful you can lengthen the hose - preferable to putting holes in it.
I just tried the mesh style paper for cutting down Bondo for cars. It cleans out so much better and with that, the life span is a little better. Plus, I don't have to create trash as quickly because I can use it again with other sanding projects.
Far as the sanders- being I'm working from home. I have both electric sanders and air sanders... Either type, I prefer a sander that has variable speed.....the trigger style. This way I can slow down/speed up the machine with ease.
Excellent. Gotta love that Festool vac, very expensive and lovely bit of kit.
Excellent video! Had often heard of using dust extraction for the sake of the dust, but it's new to learn that it actually improves the performance. Great tip!
I was surprised too!
yep you arent pushing the sawdust back into the wood pores, doesnt clog the paper up either.
Enjoyed your video. I actually enjoy sanding, but am about to oversee the restoration of a cedar table my Dad built 60 years ago, so this is timely!
1st video I’ve ever seen of yours and what a great guy you seem to be. Funny, informative and calm 🙌🏼
Upgrading to high end sanders and dust extractor is one of the biggest upgrades you can make in woodworking imo. Just makes everything easier and better.
very nice info, thanks :) Though it was frustrating not being able to see the finished product :)
Thanks brother
I do sand a lot. Been too lazy to hook up to dust collection. Saving time is massive for moi!
Dig the channel!
Be well
Such a good video. Thank you so much for making sanding less of a pain! I learned something for sure.
I love the way you think mate. You do experiments and you even use older tech I have never heard of. Wow, I am subscribed just because of that! Keep up the good work!
Excellent video as always. Very useful info, keep up the great work.
Connecting my shop vac to my sander made a huge difference. I 3d printed an interface so it was done for very cheap.
A dust extractor is a MUST, not only for sanding. Invest at least into a decent one for around $200 instead of buying a crappy one and a decent one some month later (like I did ...).
And you're right with using a mesh sanding disk instead of a regular one, but it is also important what kind of abrasive used: try the 3M Cubitron II mesh sanding disks and find out how much better they are even compared to Bosch mesh disks.
Fully agree for daily users and professional but if you are a casual d I y er that may only use the tool once a year then a very cheap one is usually quite sufficient.
When you use your sander only once a year, you‘re likely not building furniture or anything else with wood that requires a finish. Or you build one piece per year only. I would call myself a casual DIYer and I use the sander approx once per month. Absolutely worth the extra $50 (got a Makita BO5041 for ~$120). And a good dust extractor will also reduce the mess with you other tools (hand/track saw, router, miter saw) for probably $100 extra.
scrapers take a bit of skill to sharpen and use, but give great results, i recommend a holder to save your thumbs, id use a lower count grit at the start to get the finish off, and yes there are huge differences in quality of sandpaper. dust collection is a must. cheers
Good nfo and lots of effort put in here.
Just realised I watched a sanding video... was excellent 😂
I use a Bosch and what I’ve found is changing the sanding base plate depending on grits works wonders. Hardest for low grits and softest for highest. Pad savers are a must too if I’m using mesh, which 3M Cubitron is an absolute game changer. As for dust collection, dust deputy (or the equivalent) makes sanding way more pleasant.
Great video! I can't say I'm really surprised by the results, but it does at least give me an excuse to save up for a Mirka and a good dust extractor. Subscribed!
Loved that comparison. Loved the
Loved the humour too. Great job.
Great video! Thanks for those tests!! Really explained a lot of my observations while refining a set of night tables for the first time. Cheers!
Brilliant review, well paced and informative.
If you want to avoid time, use a angle grinder, adapted with a wood disc to hold the sand paper, they are DIY projects, also, can control the speed with a dimer, integrated or external dimer, can't conect a vacum, but that is very very quick and can later do just a final sanding with the normal sanding tool. The grinder also has 2 handles and is easy to control.
just sanded 120 sqm of vertical cladding, it took me about 70sqm to realise the benefits of duct taping a henry hoover (with bag) to the exhaust port of my orbital..... saves times, dust and pads..... extraction is top dog
Interesting, full of humor and full of lovely dogs --> I subscribe
This was the first one of your videos that I've seen. Brilliantly informative, easy to understand, and well presented. Given a thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks for this. I’ve never heard of the card(?) scraper. I’m going to have to check that out!
Try a direct drive sander next and you will be twice as quick (like Festool Rotex line). The rotation of orbitals slows with downward pressure, direct drive just keep spinning. They are more aggressive because of this so you need to be careful but the Festool Rotex ones also have a switch to pop them over to orbital. You can actually use the same grit paper in some cases by direct driving first to strip the paint/varnish then switch to orbital and use light pressure to for a smoother finish. We actually use a Rotex 150 then swap over to a dedicated orbital that is lighter (FESTOOL ETS EC 150) because it's a joy to use and gives lovely results. All are on dust extraction which also saves on sandpaper as it doesn't get as clogged with extraction. They aren't cheap but if it is your business or you are a home handyman doing a lot it will pay for itself in time saved very quickly. Or buy one for a job and sell it at the end, they hold their value really well.
Re: sandpaper. The mesh ones are superior for dust extraction but aren's as strong so don't last as long if sanding rough things or up against edges. Really good for plaster though which can be a dust nightmare without good sandpaper (mesh paper) and extraction. For wood, we mainly use paper. Also, choose your grit correctly and don't try and use one or two for everything (despite comment above!) Also, don't use household vac, you'll ruin it. We use Festool vacs like NW here but we also have just a cheap shop vac which is just as good just a bit more noisy. The Festool vacs also have bluetooth to turn them on and off which is great when using battery powered sanders. HEPA filters are a good idea too and blowback vacs for plaster.
Interesting video with an interesting and educational concept. Keith from rag n bone brown has used a card scraper for years. I can vouch for dust extraction making a considerable difference. When i sanded down the living room woodwork, adding extraction massively sped up the process and sanding pads lasted way longer. Another hit Pete 👍
Keith had a little business doing it didn't he. Should get him on a collaboration, boost the channel a bit.
@@tomrichardson7792 Agreed, although bit of a commute. Salford to Norwich. And yes, he refurb furniture and countertops iirc
@@rickycheadle4717 he should do it by narrow boat for the views haha
Cheers Ricky
Reckon there’s an audience for DIY canoe content?
17 passes down to 2 passes. That is huge. He needed to make a bigger deal about the difference.
Good test, great info. I like to do some hand sanding with the grain in between some of the grit changes and inspect. I think Stumpy should watch this.
So right, chuck.
Reducing sand paper friction from dust with an extractor makes every common sense fibre in my body tingle.
Simple logic and well exampled on your sample. Simples!
I love to watch and refinish. I also enjoy sanding but thanks for sharing. Could you do a test on the new square sander, please?
Nice. Thanks for the testing and advice
Oh my! You got me on the end! Phew!!
Very enjoyable video! Not seen any of yours before so thought I’d give this a try. Very good presentation and nice friendly manner, and both informative and entertaining. Subscribed and will def be back for more. 👍🏻
I clicked on this because I have the same Black & Decker sander. 'Sandstorm'. I concur that it is loud and harsh. I have always wanted it to have variable speed. Unfortunately the foam Velcro disc has broken and I don't know where to get a new one. its method of attachment is unique and other brands don't fit it. So I bought a Ryobi instead, which has variable speed. The best part was it was one of the old blue ones, on clearance for $30. I like the old blue Ryobi tools. My favourite is the Circular saw. When the armature blew, I sourced a new one, which was apparently the last one left in Australia. Yes! If you think this post is a stream of consciousness load of drivel you are probably right.
I think the sanders would both have a different wattage, there for a much bigger difference in sanding too, great video
Great insightful video… would have liked have seen the finished table in situ
Check my community posts 😉
When I was doing the casework for pipe organs, we were not allowed to sand. Sandpaper was made illegal to use in the shop. All wood was hand planed or scraped. The finish was unlike any I'd ever seen,. Sanding cannot compare with actually sheering the wood fibers with a sharp blade.
I have to say I love the card scrapers. We had a bit of sunshine for two days here in Ireland and I spent an evening out in the garden sharpening all mine. Very satisfying especially when I got to use them on a set of mid century dining chairs that I got a while back on fb marketplace. Haven't tried the mesh sanding discs yet but I must do. Great video. Looking forward to seeing the table video as that's next on my hitlist too.
Those quiet sharpening session are one of my favourite parts of woodworking. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I love sanding, it's an art. Especially by hand without an electric sander...
Understanding sanding, you have to feel, watch, listen apply the right pressure, use the proper backing ( hard or soft) to what the sandpaper is doing, depending on what the characteristics of the wood . And the quality and brand of sandpaper needs to be learned too. Some are good some are bad. Sanding definitely is a learning process
I rarely throw out used sandpaper because as the grit wears down it becomes less abrasive it can be used as a "smoothing" the surface depending on what needs to be done.
Still have a quarter sheet Black & Decker 4011 professional sander, made in the year of the flood; had dust collection way back when, and low vibration. Beat the half sheet sanders in amount of wood removal in tests. Still works fine, and of course a finishing sander leaves no swirls from the orbital movement of orbital sanders. After Stanley purchased B&D, and then DeWalt, it sold for about 20 years as a DeWalt brand; now still sold but Stanley corp changed the brand again, so now it's a Porter-Cable 380. Only difference is the color of the plastic, from gray to yellow, then back to gray. Still top rated last time I checked. I have to say, I prefer the gray. I don't know if newer ones are better, but when I bought mine back around 1990, it was the top rated finishing sander. I can't recommend this sander enough. Even bought it to give for Christmas presents.
This was really interesting and well filmed - thank you for your time - just subbed
That trick at the end worked. I was like: Who on Earth throws out so much good quality wood!?
Wickes shop vac - £40. Mine has lasted for years, doubles a compressor/blower too. Link it up with a cyclone and the filter will only need cleaning twice a year.
wish the woodworking classes at Moorside had been this good!