TIMMS BMW 840CI ACCIDENT - THE LIGHTS DON'T WORK NOW!
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- Опубліковано 2 гру 2023
- After the Body Shop finished their work on my accident-damaged 840ci I had problems with the side lights. Fuse 5 kept blowing every time I switched them on. I have to pass the Ministry Of Transport (MOT) before I can get the car back on the road - and it will not pass if the lights don't work!
This is the story of the hunt for the problem - it took five hours!
The cable covering is: amzn.to/3Na8kLT
Spiralschlauch schwarz 1 Meter SPS10, manufacturers number: 162-10100 SPS10-PP-BK
RS 817-9836 uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-... - Авто та транспорт
You sir are far more forgiving than I am when it comes to omissions in wiring diagrams. On my E38, one thing I did a few years ago is map out the entire power system to the same standard that Mazda does on their diagrams. In Mazda nomenclature, anything that comes on with the Headlight Switch in Position I (TNS position) is fed power through the TNS Relay (Tail/Number Plate/Signal Lights). Everything is laid out in a methodical manner that is easy to follow, even in Japanese. Add in my usual refinements (text searchable) and it turns this task from quite the faffe into a joy to correct, quick and precise.
Thanks! The E38 diagrams have always been a pain, for quick reference I always start with this one from 1995: www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/BMW_95E_38_wiring_diagram.pdf
Thanks Tim for the episode. I'm sure greasing the rear flap hinges has already been done in the time between. Great you kept the E31. Greetings! Till the next time. 👍
Never been quite sure of what best does the job where connecting wires are concerned. Depending a hit or a miss with my own experience. Good video again 👍👍👍
THanks! I'll see how these new devices go, hopefully better than last time!
Wow, impressive detective work! Great video.
Thanks! And glad you enjoyed it!
you have the patience of a saint ! well done Tim
I must have!
I remember having Fords in the 1980’s and we continually had electrical ground issues - this reminded me of tracking down those grounding errors. Simpler days. 😅
My early cars just disintegrated, British Leyland at their very best!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation One or two halfway usable ones might have escaped the factory. It's how we got the famous line from Top Gear:
"You've been lapped by Captain Slow in a Princess full of water"
As for Fords with ground issues, it never stopped. Pretty much every week in the Ford Expedition club, someone has a problem tied to a failing ground or five. The solution is simple, easy and cheap, yet most just start crying instead and saying it's all witchcraft and sorcery.
Fantastic Timm, your troubleshooting is fantastic.
Glad you think so!
Love that 8 series the colours are really nice it’s coming on nicely Timm.
Thanks, it's Mora Metallic, one of the available Individual colours
Another good one Timm. Thank you for all your efforts on the forum again, much appreciated. Good old spiral wrap, first used that back in '78, but it was nylon and quite stiff as I recall, very strong though. Yes, heatshrink has its ups and downs, I always try and get the 3:1 shrink ratio, but I'm sure you agree, none of it is as flexible as you would like it to be. I have some bits of loom to attend to so have just ordered some of that Tesa tape, the adhesive cloth stuff, which I am hoping mimics the factory almost. All good fun. Aiming for an engine start before Christmas, everything crossed.
Thanks Bob, I like the new-fangled solder devices, but I actually remember using them at work in the late 90's - they were absolutely hopeless then!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Indeed, I've had bad luck with those butt connections as well. Incidentally, I've also come across the strange phenomenon where a break in the copper wire insulation allows moisture to track up the conductors by capillary action, each copper strand corrodes all over and it is impossible to solder. I once had a wire that had done this and I had to cut it back about 500mm before I exposed clean copper that would solder.
please never stop making videos
As always a very useful and informative video. The boot lid wires are on my winter jobs list, so I will take a lead from you and get hold of the solder heatshrink wire and cable wrap. Keep up the good work!
Excellent!
Ordered the wrap from RS as Amazon showed deliver June 2024. I have already bought a box or various size solder sleeve and a battery 18v hot air gun with a useful attachment which hooks around the cable to spread the heat for an even shrink. Thanks again
Hi Timm. When I was trained in soldering, the wires were supposed to be heated up to temperature before introducing the flux. The flux cleans the joint and allows the solder to then adhere to the metal. Never just melt solder/flux onto a cold joint, so I dont see how these connectors are a good idea. Just saying...
Yes, I wouldn't use those naff connectors. More than likely will fail again in the future. Get a powerful soldering iron and do the job properly.
These connectors seem to work great, but if you check the connection, in many cases you can just rip the connection apart. The soldering does not work in most cases and you have no chance to see or check this from the outside. I would not recommend this and go with one of the traditional ways of joining wires. Those never failed on me.
Yes, the cables in a trunk lid is a common problem in E39 as well. All because of age of the car.
Now I could easily be wrong here so I'll caveat it with 'I'm probably wrong' RE- wires that won't take solder, I've encountered this in all sorts of very old to old motorcycles and I've mostly attributed it to some sort of oxidisation (time or an event, like overload ((burnt)) being probable causes, etc etc). Mechanical abrasion often helps, so splay the wires out into a fan and use an abrasive to de-coat the wire, failing that trace the wire until it is in good condition and replace the 'bad' length. Usually though it's a lack of heat, keep on using more power on your iron until the bugger takes a tin, and a lot of good quality flux. Currently working on a 2010 skoda, so feel your pain.
There are some new fluxes that clear the oxidisation from copper wires (CircuitWorks Tacky Flux being the best) my problem was adhesive from adhesive-lined heatshrink - that was a mistake!
Nice work Tim, I had a similar experience when our car came back from the bodyshop, (after we had been rear ended). It is soul distroying but you got their in the end. With this weather, perhaps you should consider adding an X3 or X5 to the fleet.
Thanks! I've got the 6-Series for something reliable, and with the winter alloys fitted hopefully I'll get through winter OK!
Bit of a weary experience with the bodyshop. I had broken/ missed and also damaged mine after some welding repairs and respray
I hate my car being out of my possession for any reason, something always gets broken!
Great methodical electrical troubleshooting, Timm. Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan, and Automotive Diagnostics & Programming style! Quick question: why didn’t you have the repair shop fix the electrical wiring fault, since they performed the repair? Or did you tshoot for personal entertainment ?
Thanks! I didn't have time to take it back to the body shop as it was going to the mechanics next - also, yes, it's good stuff for the channel anyway
Hello Similar Midi lighting faults, fog light number plate light warnings. How/where can I view relevant electrical diagrams pls
Start with the simple bits like changing the bulbs - if they are OK then it will probably be the looms
Well done for bring this car back on the road ! Now, have you obtained valuations of your car pre and post accident and then claimed the difference from the offending party? And remember your car is now permanently on the register as a write off !
Thanks Tony, I'm not sure what to do when this is all over yet, bit of a way off at the present
Get the job completed. Then obtain an expert in valuations as the car was pre accident and the car as rebuilt. The largest devaluation will be the HPI register on what it states. Your expert can then provide a written report on both values, setting out your consequential loss which is the amount that you should recover. You have 6 years to make the claim. Further help is here if you need it. Good luck and wish you well
Body shop stresses or Rodents
Probably both!