Gixxer I love my 2002 FLSTC. For the last 1.5 yrs I listened to you and waited for my used scoot to appear. Mint. cond. low low MI. I have put $11000. into my scoot . Paint,95 big bore, Massive head work, chrome front end SS 583cam, My scoot is carb. Paid $9828.63 out the door. Yes she is a show quality and a screamer. [2into1 exhaust} Some might say I should have bought a new scoot. Not. I still saved big$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Thanks Gixxer.
My only prior Harley experience was with an ‘89 Softail Custom of a friend of mine. It’s what I finally got my Wisconsin motorcycle license on, in ‘91, after 20 years of riding while only getting permits. I liked the looks of his Softail which is why I ended up buying my 2006 Dyna Wide Glide that had a Twin Cam 88. It took me a while to realize that the TC 88 likes rpm’s more than the Softail’s Evo did after riding it like I had the Evo. It pulls fairly well at low rpm, but give it some revs and it keeps coming on stronger. It worried me enough that I ordered a HD speedo/tach combo just so I know just how far I’m winding it and you’re right about it running very smooth. I’m adding a K&N air cleaner and filter, a Jagg horizontal mount fan assisted oil cooler, and I just ordered a Power Vision PV4 to richen up the fuel map a bit which has me eagerly waiting for Spring to see how much difference they make in performance and in helping it to run a bit cooler.
That is what i like about my Kawa's and Honda's... no need to rebuild at all. Only replace wheel and steering head bearings because they worn out from... riding.
25 years and still going strong. Waiting on my motor to have issues so I can rebuild my engine but it seems like that may not happen for a while. I did replace my pushrods, my lifters, and lifter blocks last year. Maybe I'll replace my cam bearing, cam, and valve springs next but there isn't any urgency yet to do those. Thank God for Evo...best motor ever
I'm watching this video to see if it finally sways me towards shopping for a TC. The carb'd EVOs are getting tough to find in my area, while the TCs are everywhere.
@@ORflycaster I'd look on Cycle Traders. Lots of good deals on bikes of all kinds. If I were to buy an Evo, I'd get the 1998. Usually I can find one with less than 20k miles on it for $5000-$6000 on there. Electraglides for $6000-$7000.
Watch those cam chain tensioners the early models 99-05 I believe! If they blow apart it can cost a pretty penny to fix the damage! It’s best to upgrade to the hydraulic cam plate
113,000 miles on my 2003 Road King. Although I had to replace the mechanical tensioners (preventive maintenance) is the only 'problem' I had. Just put in set #4 and should be good for 30K more. Run out was .0018 . Oil pressyre is hanging in at 33 idle -40 running
I've already invested in my Twin Cam, gradually discovering the flaws and fixing them. The only thing I haven't fixed is the crankshaft. It's within spec for now but I don't fully trust it unless I eventually get it trued and welded. I've got an S&S 509 Bolt-in cam in there now and that's about the most modification I trust this engine with. I will say this, had I known what I know now I would have bought another Evo Sportster instead of a Twin Cam. Harley-Davidson left way too much on the shoulders of the customer with this engine that should have been built right the first time. That's why I laughed when Harley-Davidson calls themselves a premium brand.
I have an 06 ElectraGlide Standard that has evolved into my version of a CVO. When it had 30k on it I had the cam shoe upgrade done. My mechanic talked me out of a gear drive. Everything you listed here with the exception of the crank work has been done to my 88 at that time using S&S and Fueling parts. I opted not to punch it out to 95 or 98 CI but had it bored .030 over for new pistons that got it to 90 CI. I had extensive headwork that got the compression to 10.2:1. It was tuned to run on 91 octane where it puts out 96hp. That was 80k miles ago and it is still running just as strong.
I agree, love the sound of the twin cam. Still got a lot of miles left on my 2014. My problem is I got the bike running so good, I'm afraid to touch it. Did both engine and suspension, front and back. Did not do the bottom end though. So far no problems. Even if I bot a new bike, I'd have to throw a lot of money into just to get it as good as mine. Thanks for another great video as i watch the snow melt in the yard.
@Mark Do you find your motor running to hot often? Just wondering because i read that a lot. Im in the market for a streetglide. Can afford a second hand 103. If i save money a 2 months maybe a second hand 107. Drove both and thought 103 had a better sound but more shaking when i released the right hand . Didnt notice remarkable power differences except for the 107 maybe pulling up a bit faster in the first gears
@@petro77vitchyes sir the 103 is hot. However the research is plentiful. Tank lifts. Tune. Wire tucks etc. will all lower the temps substantially. I went with a PV3 tuner, I notice the lower temps right away.
@@petro77vitch No, mine does not run hot. One thing I did was to put a K&P Engineering oil filter on. This is an amazing oil filter. I'm looking at the specs, and it says ''Up to 7 times more oil flow than paper filters'. It's made of billet aluminum and finned for heat dispsurtion. jmo I think this is a big reason for less heat. One great thing about it of course, last oil filter I'll ever buy! My specs are 116 ft/lbs of torque and 103 hp. Woods 222 cam, heads by Dan Vance Racing, a thin head gasket from HD and V&H power duels. Hope you found your bike.
Just got done doing everything you mentioned in your video. Installed: S&S 4 3/8" crank +Timken bearing kit (Jim's) S&S TC3 cam plate & oil pump S&S Quickie pushrods + Hylift Johnson lifters Jim's cam bearings + SE 585 cams (I plan on touring and NOT attempting to launch myself into another dimension.) Heads pressure cleaned, new AV&V valves and springs + compression releases Did the S&S sidewinder 110 kit with the matched JP Carillo high compression pistons (10.5-1) Will be running Rineheart 2 into 1 exhaust (First time! I don't know how I feel about that yet) People have said, why don't you just buy a new bike? I say because I love mine! It's an 08 Roadglide. I plan on this one sticking around a while! Always dig your videos! Thanks!
Have 08 96'' since new upgraded to SE stage 3 pro kit 103'' 10.5;1 never had any problems that the internet talks about, lots of reliable power, I think the after market keeps pumping out these horror story videos to make money, just put in SE clutch pack, the stocker lasted 15 years. KEEPING MY HARLEY ALL HARLEY, not a tossed salad off after market parts.
😊WELL IM IN THE UK AND IVE JUST REBUILT MY 2005 DYNA GLIDE SUPER SPORT IVE REPLACED THE CRANK CASES FOR THE EARLIER CRANK CASES THAT-HAS THE DOUBLE TIMKEN BEARING SETUP I THEN HAD A WELDED STROKER CRANKSHAFT FITTED THE CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT WAS LESS THAN 00.2 THOUSANDS OF AN INCH WHICH MEANT THAT I COULD FIT GEAR DRIVEN CAMS I THEN FITTED HOTTER CAMS ,FUELING CAMPLATE AND LIFTERS I THEN HAD THE BARRELS BORED FROM 88” TO 110” THE HEADS WAS FULLY PORTED AND BIGGER VALVES FITTED AND EVERYTHING WAS PUT TOGETHER WITH METICULOUS PRECISION I ALMOST FORGOT I ALSO FITTED A NEW FUELING HIGH OUTPUT OIL PUMP 😊 I CANT WAIT TO GET IT SET UP ON THE DYNO😊
It took me 30yrs to warm up enough to an Evo to finally buy a '97 WideGlide. I bought an 02 Twinkie Softail Springer a couple of years ago, but sold it after two months because it had no soul. If it doesn't sound, ride, and feel like a shot up B29 trying to limp home on one engine, it ain't a Harley. That's why I prefer my '72 Shovel head ElectraGlide. You make good videos.👍
Tc 88 and 103 have a shake rattle and roll feel. Not like my 81 but I always have guys at red lights watching my hands and arms shaking and they always love that old-school rattle.
@@brandonmacon3317 I had a Twinkie 88B with the counter balancer and EFI, and it didn't feel like a Harley at all. My wife didn't even like to ride on the back of it.
I guess I'm a dinosaur, as I'm still riding my 1949 EL Panhead. Not a hot rod but solid and dependable. Speaking of reusing gaskets, back in the day when we worked on British bikes they used copper head gaskets and we would anneal them and use them again.
My 96 built out to a 107 had all of that done barring the bottom end . Builder said mine was good even though I was keen for a Darkhorse Crank to give me that forever feels..👍🏻🇦🇺
What I have found with both my SGS 103 and Heritage 103 is to do a stage one, tune them and then ride them. I have thousands of trouble free miles on both of them. When I feel like thrashing a V-Twin I get on my KTM Super Duke 1290 and go shred...that's it, stone cold reliable. Love the vids GixxerFoo, keep it up!
I broke my Baker compensator and Baker manual chain tensioner after 2 years....went with the Dark Horse comp eliminator and back to original stock primary chain tensioner.....good decision so far
2015 TC 22k miles so far. Just had the tw222 put in, and that OE fuel moto oil pump. I originally ordered the SS oil pump, then I seen one of your previous videos, and returned it and bought the OE+. Thanks for the advice
I have a 2017 BreakOut with 62k miles. No issues yet but the compensator has always been noisy no matter what oil I put in. I just put in a bigger oil pump and changed out the cam chain tensioners/shoes that weren't that bad. All and all, All Is good 💪🏽
You should pop open the camshaft because you are just about at the service interval for the cam change in their tensioners at 40,000 miles if it can't chain breaks its speed it will total your engine
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 the 103 has the hydraulic tensioners from factory, my old TC88 did 80,000 miles on the original chain tensioners and I'll admit, they were about 30 seconds from totalling the engine, the 103s barely looks used.
@@yanceyboyz when I had my Honda motorcycles I adjusted the cam chain at specified intervals according to the shop manual. You would be riding along and the chain with SNAP and you would Coast silently to the road knowing your engine was toast. 1 Harley came out with it I knew they were going to have trouble and they did in spades. All twin cam should have been gear-driven cam stock. I have Cam change on some of my Airhead BMW that have lasted for hundreds of thousands of miles. As soon as you start the engine the tensioner properly tensions the chain. It is a cheap and nasty way of driving a valve train but it works until it breaks and then it destroys your engine. When the cam chain broke in my CX500 Honda it tore through the water pump and broke through the camshaft into pieces. It died three blocks from my place of employment and I just turned around and pushed it back. The mechanics at the shop said we could fix it but the more we took it apart the more damage we discovered. My Sportster which is gear driven has 400,000 miles on the original engine. My Triumph free year for decades never had a speedometer until a cop bitched at me about not having one so I put one on even if it did not work. I don't even remember how many sets of tires I have worn out on that bike in 40 Years of riding it. True I have had to do maintenance on a 50 year old motorcycle but you have to replace things that we're out. All in all though I have not done much to it really except change the oil and tires very little engine work get a little work on the transmission but not much. Clutch basket primary chain front sprocket all original. I did wear out both camshafts after 40 years course I had to split the crankcase to replace them and found the sludge trap almost full. I tossed it and put a brand new one in. She is good for another 50 years. All of my motorcycles are like a stray animal coming to my door and needing a forever home and they get one.
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 the cam chain doesn't break in Harley twin cams, the cam shoes disintegrate and wreck the oil flow/Pump and it was an issue on 88s...the 96s were better and the 103 had the issue resolved. In saying that my 2000 road king has the 88 and I changed the cam shoes at 80,000 miles, they were absolutely ruined but hadn't given up, I upgraded to the new cam plate and hydraulic tensioners. My 2015 ultra limited with the 103 twin cooled has barely a mark on the cam shoes as it comes stock with the hydraulic chain tensioner. 35,000 miles and smiling. Also triumph are pretty terrible, here in the UK people have so many issues with them, I have mates with street and speed triples that regularly get their second bike out because the triumph won't play, nearly as bad as Ducati in that respect. I've had them all, and they have all had issues. The only 100% totally reliable bike I've ever had was a Yamaha R6, my 1998 sportster and my 2015 ultra limited.
I ride a stock '99 Heritage Springer last year evolution motor and its already bulletproof. I may down the road put a cam and a carb kit in it. She's still has fairly low miles. Twin Cam is a good motor.
Well Gixxer talk about timing two days ago I had a clanking noise in my 103 started stripping it now still haven't found the issues now my Mrs is listening to your video and I'm saying perfect timing just what I need to know and what I should do now she's still laughing for now lmao. Oh well I think it's time to take it out and do it properly once and for all. Here comes huge amount of overtime to pay for it but it's worth every cent. Awesome video brother thanks again. All the best from NZ 🇳🇿
You just described my rebuild. I had my engine fully rebuilt at 150K. S&S crank. Timken bearing. S&S 551 Gear drive cams, oil pump, cam plate, and Kevin Baxter lifters. Dark Horse compensator. 107 cylinders with R&R heads set at 10.1 (110 TQ @ 2,000 RPMS 119 Peak TQ @ 3650)
The twin cam engine is better than the panhead the shovelhead the Blockhead and the M8. In order to make the same power as the twin-cam the M8 had to go up 4 in
07 and up TC engines are impressing me . Couple of bikes I take care of are approaching 200,000 km (124,000 miles) with no issues. MOCO in 07 transferred problems to drivetrain with there adjustable primary chain adjuster destroying most bearings on mainshaft, along with disintegrating splines in clutch hub.
Yes, I experienced those issues with the auto tensioner. Splines in the clutch hub, etc. First time I got into the primary, I discovered the chain was tight as a piano string. Something just didn't seem right about the way it functioned. I converted my factory auto tensioner to manual, with a little work and about a buck and a half.
@@williamolson3704 Just goes to show you that modern engineers probably never had a pedal bike in their youths, that needed chain adjustment. They were too busy on their smart phones.
2005 and the only things I have yet to replace are the bearings to the Timken and flywheel. R&R Cycles makes good flywheels and then Johnson Hylift makes just about everybody’s lifters.
Everything you said about the twin cam is true with the M8. They have bad oil pumps until 2021, crappy cam plate as well (Put in S&S Cam plate, Oil Pump and lifters with lifter guides). My compensator didn’t last 10k miles (Put in Darkhorse). Clutch basket had more cracks in the a 50 year old driveway (Put in Barnett complete clutch).
yeah and all you have to do is maintain them and leave them alone. 104k on mine and ill ride it across the country right now with no worries. you could put 10k into your engine, or you can ride it till it dies and then buy a used 114 or 107 with 5k on it for 7k.
When I had my 78 kz100 engine rebuilt and bored, the guy didn't check the ring gap and ended up putting stock rings in an oversized piston. When I put the engine back in and got it fired up, it blew oil out of the exhaust because of the big ring gap. I took it back, and he fixed it and reused the Cometics head gasket. So now it leaks. I would reise a head gasket on anything. Rockboxes, maybe, but after all that money spent, it sucks to get an oily boot.
I love your channel and all the great information 👍. I have said this before, I'm lucky, I have a couple of 2002 Dynas that I have fixed those issues early. I agree with you about solid push rods also. However, I do have adjustable 😪. Keep the channel going!!
I just bought a 2005 Road Glide knowing I would need to spend quite a bit to "make it my own." In my opinion, that's the best part about buying an older 88. You can do anything and everything to it and make it unique to your own style and budget. To me, choosing each and every part beats paying 40K plus on a brand new bike any day.
Super good update on the 96er's. Gives me lots of great information, especially if I'm going to jump engine size to the 107. I would port polish, cam, pipe, intake, and a good tune. The bottom end is a good idea, if the engine is pulled anyways. Great video ! Thanks !!
Honestly haven't had issues with my 08 96 Fatboy and I haven't been the most kind while riding her. That said I'm glad to see that anything I would replace during my planned build anyways is all I need to worry about. Now what I can't figure out is all the die hard evo guys in the comments, and all I can think is they're happy being slow because I haven't seen a single evo keep up with the pack and need devour rod's like the cookie monster on crack
You are only at the halfway mark for inspection and replacement which occurs at 40,000 miles. 1 Twin Cam owner related how he bought a low mileage twin cam that ran but very noisily and when he took the cam cover off the cam chain tensioner was gone and the chain was just flopping around. He was so lucky that it did not snap and total is engine.
@@rododuran9350 Just like the man said. You need to build the bottom end with the bearing and welded crank. That you need to gave done at a good machine shop. I sent my bottom to some place in Wisconsin. For the top end you will want to get the blue S&S cam plate, a gear drive, cam it to your riding conditions (I use wood cams on all of my builds), pistons 10.5:1, and a large intake/TBI. Price will depend on what you put in it but expect at least 5K. I did all of my own work other than the bottom so if you have it done it will cost much more but if you are mechanically sufficient do it yourself, it's not rocket science. I built my bike for torque and fun and that is what I got. If you build it for HP you may never see the benefits of the build. Goog look. Make it happen!
I have a 2000 Electra glide with 33,000 miles. It's had a rough life,started in New York,went to Michigan,now resides in Maine. Noone knows anything about it,vin# doesn't bring anything up thru Harley. Time to pull it and have it BUILT. It's 24 y.o. but it's "old school" and looks nice now!
So waiting for Harley’s 110 tire shredder kit since June of 22. That’s 9 months and counting. At what point do I need to replace the pressed crank? I knew I would go billet cam plate but which one?? On the fence about the compensater, guess run it till it goes out. I Wes thinking on lower gears set to show off them 259 cams that comes in kit.
My 2011 dyna street bob has the tire shredder that I put in 2017, bought the bike new and dynoed at 106hp/122tq which is more than enough to get into trouble with. Hopefully you get it soon, you'll love it 🤘
50k, you did good and had fun! It's that opportunity to upgrade it and pack in another 50K or more on a new bike. Putting power in the bike will make you fall in love all over again.
Thanks for the info. Own a basically stock 2001 FXSTB purchased it new. Pipes and filter assembly is the only motor changes. Dependable motorcycle. Not fast. That’s what the 2014 Mustang GT is for.
Running my tween cam 103 more than 10 years and 50k miles and never had a problem, well, the compensator of course, I think it’s an excellent motor. At 50k I checked the runout in it, it was about 4 thousands, replaced some essential parts such as cams, tensioners and such and the bike is running like brand new. Would I like to do some flywheel work down the road? Yes would it be worth it? I don’t know. Thanks for the video.
@@jaym8027 as a previous Honda owner who had three motorcycles destroyed by cam chain failure resulting and catastrophic engine failure. If I were you I would change to the gear-driven cam shaft while you still can. The cam chain is the Achilles heel of many modern motorcycles because it is a cheap and easy way to drive the valve train but when it fails it results in catastrophic engine failure. A motorcycle as expensive as a Harley big twin should not have cheap parts in the engine resulting in the owner having to drop $5,000 into changing the cheap parts that they put in there. If I were you I would do this just to have the Peace of Mind knowing that you never will have to deal with a cam chain snapping and destroying your engine. Of course I keep my motorcycles for decades. I don't have to worry about my gear driven Sportster or any of my ear driven vintage British motorcycles. Now my Airhead BMWs from the 1970s having campaign but BMWs are different. My BMW 100 / 7 had 500,000 Mi at the time of her demise. I never worried about the cam chain with the BMW.
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 Thannk you Frank. I meant that S&S requires less than .005 runout in the crankshaft in order to install their gear driven cam chest. I didn't write that very clearly. I always wanted one of those 70's era BMWs, they're really good looking bikes. I do have an old Triumph squirrelled away in the garage - I'm not worried about cam timing, but the brakes are so primitive that I only ride it around the immediate neighborhood once in a while. Have a great day!
Iam having my 2012 streetglide done now. .005 runout. Using stock HD cam plate. Cyclorama 570-2 cams. Fueling lifters. S and s oil pump. Leaving top end together. It has 56k miles on it and had no major issues. Oh new head pipe and monster rounds v and h with dyno jet tuner. It gets dyno d this coming week.
I really look forward to your videos for the information you share and appreciate that you make these videos solely to help others. Thankyou. What I do not appreciate though, is that the need exists to for you to do so, in order to make an American motorcycle from one of the oldest, most recognizable major brands in the world, with possibly the highest cost, (but certainly the most loyal customer base worldwide. Hell, even kids in the poorest of countries covet a Harley T-shirt!), all because HD appear incapable of ever getting engine design right. At this stage they really should understand better. Japan does. Improving performance is different (if the customer really wants that), and often comes with penalties, but ensuring customers can simply use the motorcycle in a way that other motorcycle manufacturers manage to get right straight from the factory, is sad....very sad. Harley need to add step up their game and seriously consider their mechanical design hiring metrics, as opposed to why sales are hurting, increasing their prices and peddling trashy accessories. They are not boutique, they are cool agricultural! I've owned ironhead Sportsters, Panheads, Evo big twins, one V-Rod, one Buell and now an 88 TC Softail; and loved them all! However only the V-Rod appeared "almost" bulletproof. (Ground clearance, thimble sized gas tank and riding position all were questionable). Please keep the videos coming, as I doubt HD will be stepping up to the plate any time soon.
My 2009 FLUTCU has S&S crank, SE CAM plate/oil pump, S&S 106 big bore kit with easy start cams. I also just installed an external crank case breather. I also want to install a manual primary chain tensioner. next time the comp goes out, I'll try the dark horse.
Had a 2007 Electra glide, they say one of the worst bikes made, put 50,000 miles on it never a problem , not a lot of power though just adjusted my riding style, loved my 87 evo Electra glide put a good cam in it and bumped tranny pulley two teeth great riding bike, now have a 2022 road glide 107 m8 learning about that motor now, just ride them take care of them and u usually have a freak bike, thanks for the videos
First of all thank you very much for the information that you put out and I appreciate the time you put in doing this for your views. Secondly I’ve been researching and looking at different years of the HD and wanting to know more information about what’s the best cam for touring bikes to do a cross country trip? Is the stroker 103 good for that or stick with 95 upgrade? A lot of questions that maybe I could put in a email to pick ur brain. Thank you for your time.
Evo and TCs are both great motors.... they both have a storied history of longevity and even though they both have their issues at times, have been known to both last a good amount of time with correct maintenance. Talking about crate motors kind of had me chuckling due to the fact it's easier to find a built crate for an evo cheaply than it is for an 88 96 or 103. Although I do agree with you that the evo is better as it generates less heat in the long run on smaller bikes, on big bikes that need the headroom to get up to speed, a 103 or 96 is perfect. Mix that with ETC and Fuel injection and you have a bike that when used regularly is less likely to leak. The primaries on the 103s are a pain in the long run as far as run put and what not, but for most people, taking long trips in the heat with an oil cooler, the engine is well built enough to last 100k or more. I've seen them numerous times. Even seeing several over 150k miles. I see some evo bias, I would assume knowing that their more be more diehards on this page, but the TCs are great engines up to the 107, and although when you start getting too much torque it takes more of a toll on the compensating side. That is a good upgrade to make early if you're worried about it. I say, ride it til it breaks, fix it and ride it some more. That's what made the evo great, and has made the 88s great as well. Oil changes and not cranking back on the throttle at every stop and make a bike engine last longer just as a car engine will. I've seen several evos with compensator and oiling issues. I even saw a guy on the side of the highway with a head gasket leak so bad that it burnt up the cylinder sleeves and they had to rebuild. Not sure if they were even able to based on runout, which goes back to my argument. Both good motors that get tired over time but will last longer with good maintenance and riding habits
Getting ready to order some cams for the 96" either Andrews 48H, Woods TW222 or S&S 583. Not looking for massive power just a little bump up from stock without having to upgrade everything else in the motor.
I like my S&S 583 in my 103. Gave me 89hp and 106tq at the rear wheel with a tune. Curve is very very smooth, 42-43 mpg at 80-85 mph in late summer Florida, perfect for touring.
I just put the tw222’s in mine. And just recently got it retuned. Can’t wait for the weather to break.. I did and do a video on it so far, but better one’s coming soon
my 05ultra. 100,000 bought new. added a bigbore, ported the heads after 500 mile break end. I had the cases split balanced crank, 10.5 pistons, 543 geared cams, S&S push rods, timken bearings, high flow oil pump, billet cam plate, new valve springs, 51mm throttle body, new electronic fuel injection, my ported heads, 4 gear cam drive set, all seals, gaskets. it's now a bullet-proof 103. 104hp 104 tq.
Look at all the stuff you had to do to that engine. I could not even begin to imagine the cost of everything that you had to do to that engine. And it makes the same amount of horsepower as my buddies old Honda Valkyrie stock.
Harley motorcycles straight from the factory especially for the price that they charge should be trouble-free. Most Harley Riders if you asked them and they are honest they will tell you they learn how to ride a motorcycle on a little Japanese motorcycle probably a Honda. Now if you could do all of that stuff to your twin cam engine why does not it come like that stock from the factory and then you can match the horsepower of a twenty-year-old Honda. For the money you guys spent for a stock Harley it should come fully equipped engine wise and everything else should it not? Evolution Motors were designed to alleviate the problems AMF with having with the Shovelhead engine because of the pollution requirements and the crappening of the gas. The Evolution motor solved all of the problems of the Shovelhead as well as making six more horsepower at a lower RPM. The all-aluminum top-end resulted in a very cool running motorcycle that does not cooking oil therefore it lasts practically forever. My Evo Sportster runs 200° to up in August in Florida. You can't get hotter unless you go to hell. Because the engine runs nice and cool the oil stays nice and cool and lubrication cool to motor properly which is why I have four hundred thousand miles on the original motor. Ironically I bought the Sportster knowing that I would have a great selection all shops to do service work on my Sportster. I replace the little bearing in the primary every 50 to 60 thousand miles when it starts to rattle. I have replaced the stator and the primary because it wore out at 250,000 miles and it lasted twenty years. I have gone through 3 belt drive they last me over 100,000 Mi each belt. I actually wore out the front end which was replaced with the front end off a 2009 Sportster brand new. Got the double piston brake upgrade as well but don't feel no difference in breaking. My bike has been supremely reliable and dependable much more than I ever could have hoped for and this is coming from a guy who bought 4 Hondas brand new. Ever since the demise of the Evolution motor Harley has not been able to make a good quality reliable motor. I am Gravely disappointed in everything they do because everything they do from killing off the fuel line of motorcycles killing the Dinah, killing the Evolution Sportster. Concord Harley-Davidson make a motorcycle as reliable as an evolution Sportster get make one as unreliable as a twin cam Milwaukee 8 or revolution Max. When you buy a Honda you don't give a shit if it has a warranty. I wore the hell out of every Honda I bought till the wheels and fell off of them. They were great reliable motorcycles till the day they died but when they died and suffered catastrophic engine failure you could not rebuild them. It was cheaper to buy another Honda. I got 250,000 trouble-free miles and 10 years of trouble-free service from my CX500 Honda that I had in the Air Force. I know Harley-Davidson can make a good fight they have a history of making good bikes they are simply not what they used to be neither are their riders for the most part. And everybody knows what I mean when I say for the most part. My uncle's 193 8 Harley knucklehead weight less than 500 lb with a full tank of gas. It came stock with a 61 cubic inch engine which produced 50 horsepower. It came from the factory with a certificate stating it had been run at 110 miles an hour certified. A big twin used to be a nice light sportbike that ran like the wind and with the Pogo sheet on the hardtail frame as they say it was as calm as the Queen Mary on a nice day at sea. And of course Harleys in those days as all motorcycles were in those days kick-start only. The only proper way to start a motorcycle.
Did a stage one a few years ago and then put s&s 583 cams no lifters or cam plate . My 2015 103 is a monster for power and torque. However I never abuse it.
Great video Gixx, if you are looking for topics for future videos, I would love to know what goes into splitting the cases. Time and materials, what to watch out for,ect. Not sure if I want to go all out with timken bottom end or lefty bearing.
For the 88 you'd have to go with what basically is a drive sprocket like the Sportster, not a bad thing though. They are about 200 bucks but you can also change up your gearing a little bit if you want. Evolution Industries has a pretty wide selection of gearing options.
@@GixxerFoo I had an argument with the old Harley dealer because she had an oil change special for $100. I told him I could change my oil in my driveway in 20 minutes where I have to work all day to make $100 . For the most part today's Harley Riders could not change the spark plugs.
@@jimfischione2743 unfortunately I am not wrong. Today's Harley Rider would have to Google which end of a screwdriver to use. I have for over 50 years I have watched the Harley Riders deteriorate from what they used to be to what they are now.
I’m proud to say I have most of everything stated!but have Harleys hole-shot kit in my primary- chain and 24 tooth motor sprocket! And I keep my old aluminum umbrella valve covers vs the new stamped steel one’s does anyone have any knowledge on Harley’s softail counter balancer’s for the 88B engine? I’m looking for mileage markers and if anyone has had a failure from one
Thanks for the Vid... at a very minimum, High Volume Oil Pump, Oil Cooler, and a Guage to monitor. Target oil change at 2500 miles. I run Amsoil. It's worked for me, 20 years on TC's.... (knock on wood) no mechanical downtime. One more thing, 1 to 1.1 hp per inch. It's a Harley, not gonna keep up with a Busa.... lol
Awesome content my friend! I appreciate you and your input! Im building a stocker 103"( not stroker) road glide fltrx, im a old side Harley wrench.also worked in a circle track race engine shop, just race engines. I understand fuel injection and timing fully also alignment with cams. Im curious though, what is your suggestions for camshafts with stock or not pistons, but, your suggestion on cams for 8- 10lbs of booste? Should i send my heads out to be cnc machined to zippers or others? With the cam change? I don't want the top to overkill the bottom! Thank you!
The past 4 months I’ve bought 5 twin cams for less then 2000 bucks from Harley dealers around me 1 blown motor . One cracked frame the others run and ride great
I bought a a 08 police bike from Florida. Was a 96 but with a big bore kit with cams. Head work and a tune. I will tell you with 49k miles on it and me putting 3k on it after i bought it. I can almost keep up with the newer bikes. Plus i like it will almost shake itself to death at a stop sighn...😂😂😂😂😂 need to keep it 4k rpm or more and shes awake.
I like my 88 TC, but I don’t believe that I like it enough to make an airplane engine out of it. There ain’t no pulling over when you’ve got a cam chain tensioner leaving the building. But I have to admit the sound of the idle most get some strange looks around the old airport!
G'day, mate. Appreciate all your helpful content. I'm installing an S&S 110 big bore kit on my 2014 FXDF. I've also got a Barnett clutch & Baker compensator (too late to swap for the Darkhorse!). Considering I've got a 2014 model 103ci, you reckon I should do the crank as well? Cheers for all the great work.
I need your advice bro. We rebuilded 07 Heritage. Installed 110 big bore. Put in all the goodies you talked about in your video but I still feel it is not running smooth. Secondly, it doesn't goes far in first and second gear and I have to upshift really quick. What do you think the issue is? Are we missing something? Appreciate your feedback. 10:36
It is one thing to build a hot rod motor because you want to it is quite another thing to have to replace cheap parts that's Factory put in wrist expensive American made parts that they should have had in the first place instead of the cheap Chinese parts. If they bought all of their imported parts from Honda like their suspension and fuel injection there would be no problem because Honda does not make bad part.
I have a stock 05 FLHTI with 22,000 miles, i need to remove the motor to fix broken exhaust studs, i dont think i will do any motor upgrades at this time.
What's your opinion of the Wood Performance Cam chain conversion kit hydralic cam plate, oil pump etc. that comes with the Fuel Moto 98" big bore kit? Would it work with a stock crank on a 2002 Fatboy with 20k on it?
I'd run my 2009 twincam against any evo for a 1000 mile iron-butt challenge at 80+ minimum mph , they would have top end leaks and failures way before I have bottom end failures , times change, fuel changes and the "normal" Highway speed you have to run to avoid getting run over has changed too , all in which the Evo was not built for back in 1984-1999 , so if you take all that into place and ride 10,000 miles or more a year on the Highway then I know my Twincam maintenance cost would be less than a evo IN MY OPINION .
Hey buddy! Love the channel can you confirm that the 1999-2002 crank was in fact as you said in this video…bolted and not pressed as I have been told ALL twin cams were pressed thanks
I regret ever messing with the 103 in my 2014 Fatboy Lo. I had a local shop (well-known) install the Timken bearing along with the S&S 124" with oil pump & cam plate. I swapped the 640 cams for the 585's and this thing has been a flaming pile of shit ever since. A perfectly good 3,000 km bike is now the most unreliable bike I have ever owned. It was in the shop for over a year and then back in 4 times afterwards. I wouldn't buy S&S ANYTHING for my next bike! I'll keep this thing until I can get that new HD 135" in an OEM bike from HD.... then I will trade up and leave it stock except for cams, intake, tune and exhaust. Extensive engine work is a crap-shoot. Either the parts quality is garbage or the shop is. The consumer never knows because both morons point fingers at each other and take no accountability!
The Baker is a really good product and they do last a long time. They must of had a bad run or something there for a bit, they had some failures for a short time.
What exhaust was that at 10:07? Are those hi-flow cats, mini mufflers or resonators? Never saw that before. Wouldn't they slow the exhaust velocity down being that close to the heads?
100% agree with your advice. Most of it was done to my 2002 FXD, that now is a 103cci. (Stage IV SE) I have a 2 in 1 Danmoto exhaust system on it (cheap stuf) but it sounds and looks good (for me). Only 1 small negative with this total setup, the SE-259 cams have a big dip in Tq from 2500 to 3500rpm. And thoughts on a different exhaust, that could flatten that dip a bit?
Why would you put all that money into the motor and cheap out on the exhaust? I would definitely get rid of the danmoto and look into a better performing 2-1 like a thunderheader or D&D
S&S 509 cams, plate, pump and gear drive upgrade underway and I can not wait!
Gixxer I love my 2002 FLSTC. For the last 1.5 yrs I listened to you and waited for my used scoot to appear. Mint. cond. low low MI. I have put $11000. into my scoot . Paint,95 big bore, Massive head work, chrome front end SS 583cam, My scoot is carb. Paid $9828.63 out the door. Yes she is a show quality and a screamer. [2into1 exhaust} Some might say I should have bought a new scoot. Not. I still saved big$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Thanks Gixxer.
Love my TC88B,this engine is so well balanced and smooth running
That's been my experience with the two I've had. Still have one. 👍
My only prior Harley experience was with an ‘89 Softail Custom of a friend of mine. It’s what I finally got my Wisconsin motorcycle license on, in ‘91, after 20 years of riding while only getting permits. I liked the looks of his Softail which is why I ended up buying my 2006 Dyna Wide Glide that had a Twin Cam 88. It took me a while to realize that the TC 88 likes rpm’s more than the Softail’s Evo did after riding it like I had the Evo. It pulls fairly well at low rpm, but give it some revs and it keeps coming on stronger. It worried me enough that I ordered a HD speedo/tach combo just so I know just how far I’m winding it and you’re right about it running very smooth. I’m adding a K&N air cleaner and filter, a Jagg horizontal mount fan assisted oil cooler, and I just ordered a Power Vision PV4 to richen up the fuel map a bit which has me eagerly waiting for Spring to see how much difference they make in performance and in helping it to run a bit cooler.
@@chrish5791 where did u get the oil cooler from?
2017 103HO with stage 1 here. Never gonna worry about it. Tons of smooth power.
That's what I love about my Harleys, I can rebuild the engines with quality parts for much less than buying new.
Easily and continue to customize the bike however you feel.
That is what i like about my Kawa's and Honda's... no need to rebuild at all. Only replace wheel and steering head bearings because they worn out from... riding.
Why , just by a bike with s and s. Or go s and s.
25 years and still going strong. Waiting on my motor to have issues so I can rebuild my engine but it seems like that may not happen for a while. I did replace my pushrods, my lifters, and lifter blocks last year. Maybe I'll replace my cam bearing, cam, and valve springs next but there isn't any urgency yet to do those. Thank God for Evo...best motor ever
I'm watching this video to see if it finally sways me towards shopping for a TC. The carb'd EVOs are getting tough to find in my area, while the TCs are everywhere.
@@ORflycaster I'd look on Cycle Traders. Lots of good deals on bikes of all kinds. If I were to buy an Evo, I'd get the 1998. Usually I can find one with less than 20k miles on it for $5000-$6000 on there. Electraglides for $6000-$7000.
Watch those cam chain tensioners the early models 99-05 I believe! If they blow apart it can cost a pretty penny to fix the damage! It’s best to upgrade to the hydraulic cam plate
@@ORflycaster just get the twin cam man an Evo is a slow turd with no way to help it.
@Jeep Guy go for the 103...
Loved my 96. Love my 103. All stock. Never had a problem with either.
Very nice!
Very well done. Leaving my 103 stock as well. Putting cat. In storage that's it.
113,000 miles on my 2003 Road King. Although I had to replace the mechanical tensioners (preventive maintenance) is the only 'problem' I had. Just put in set #4 and should be good for 30K more. Run out was .0018 . Oil pressyre is hanging in at 33 idle -40 running
I've already invested in my Twin Cam, gradually discovering the flaws and fixing them. The only thing I haven't fixed is the crankshaft. It's within spec for now but I don't fully trust it unless I eventually get it trued and welded. I've got an S&S 509 Bolt-in cam in there now and that's about the most modification I trust this engine with.
I will say this, had I known what I know now I would have bought another Evo Sportster instead of a Twin Cam. Harley-Davidson left way too much on the shoulders of the customer with this engine that should have been built right the first time. That's why I laughed when Harley-Davidson calls themselves a premium brand.
Should have been recalled !
@@jeffhawkins711 i agree 💯
I have an 06 ElectraGlide Standard that has evolved into my version of a CVO. When it had 30k on it I had the cam shoe upgrade done. My mechanic talked me out of a gear drive. Everything you listed here with the exception of the crank work has been done to my 88 at that time using S&S and Fueling parts. I opted not to punch it out to 95 or 98 CI but had it bored .030 over for new pistons that got it to 90 CI. I had extensive headwork that got the compression to 10.2:1. It was tuned to run on 91 octane where it puts out 96hp. That was 80k miles ago and it is still running just as strong.
45,000 beautiful memorable trouble free miles on my 2015 flhxs. Team twin cam!
Please never stop making these videos Gixer, we really appreciate all the wisdom 🙏🏽🙏🏽
I agree, love the sound of the twin cam. Still got a lot of miles left on my 2014. My problem is I got the bike running so good, I'm afraid to touch it. Did both engine and suspension, front and back. Did not do the bottom end though. So far no problems. Even if I bot a new bike, I'd have to throw a lot of money into just to get it as good as mine. Thanks for another great video as i watch the snow melt in the yard.
@Mark Do you find your motor running to hot often? Just wondering because i read that a lot.
Im in the market for a streetglide.
Can afford a second hand 103.
If i save money a 2 months maybe a second hand 107.
Drove both and thought 103 had a better sound but more shaking when i released the right hand .
Didnt notice remarkable power differences except for the 107 maybe pulling up a bit faster in the first gears
@@petro77vitchyes sir the 103 is hot. However the research is plentiful. Tank lifts. Tune. Wire tucks etc. will all lower the temps substantially.
I went with a PV3 tuner, I notice the lower temps right away.
@@petro77vitch No, mine does not run hot. One thing I did was to put a K&P Engineering oil filter on. This is an amazing oil filter. I'm looking at the specs, and it says ''Up to 7 times more oil flow than paper filters'. It's made of billet aluminum and finned for heat dispsurtion. jmo I think this is a big reason for less heat. One great thing about it of course, last oil filter I'll ever buy! My specs are 116 ft/lbs of torque and 103 hp. Woods 222 cam, heads by Dan Vance Racing, a thin head gasket from HD and V&H power duels. Hope you found your bike.
Just got done doing everything you mentioned in your video.
Installed: S&S 4 3/8" crank +Timken bearing kit (Jim's)
S&S TC3 cam plate & oil pump
S&S Quickie pushrods + Hylift Johnson lifters
Jim's cam bearings + SE 585 cams (I plan on touring and NOT attempting to launch myself into another dimension.)
Heads pressure cleaned, new AV&V valves and springs + compression releases
Did the S&S sidewinder 110 kit with the matched JP Carillo high compression pistons (10.5-1)
Will be running Rineheart 2 into 1 exhaust (First time! I don't know how I feel about that yet)
People have said, why don't you just buy a new bike? I say because I love mine! It's an 08 Roadglide. I plan on this one sticking around a while!
Always dig your videos! Thanks!
That's what I call doing it right!! I bet that bike runs hard and you know it's reliable setup like that!
@@GixxerFoo Not just yet. It's a brand new build. Tuning & Break-in comes next!
Have 08 96'' since new upgraded to SE stage 3 pro kit 103'' 10.5;1 never had any problems that the internet talks about, lots of reliable power, I think the after market keeps pumping out these horror story videos to make money, just put in SE clutch pack, the stocker lasted 15 years. KEEPING MY HARLEY ALL HARLEY, not a tossed salad off after market parts.
😊WELL IM IN THE UK AND IVE JUST REBUILT MY 2005 DYNA GLIDE SUPER SPORT IVE REPLACED THE CRANK CASES FOR THE EARLIER CRANK CASES THAT-HAS THE DOUBLE TIMKEN BEARING SETUP I THEN HAD A WELDED STROKER CRANKSHAFT FITTED THE CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT WAS LESS THAN 00.2 THOUSANDS OF AN INCH WHICH MEANT THAT I COULD FIT GEAR DRIVEN CAMS I THEN FITTED HOTTER CAMS ,FUELING CAMPLATE AND LIFTERS I THEN HAD THE BARRELS BORED FROM 88” TO 110” THE HEADS WAS FULLY PORTED AND BIGGER VALVES FITTED AND EVERYTHING WAS PUT TOGETHER WITH METICULOUS PRECISION I ALMOST FORGOT I ALSO FITTED A NEW FUELING HIGH OUTPUT OIL PUMP 😊 I CANT WAIT TO GET IT SET UP ON THE DYNO😊
I still grin right before gear shift on my tc88b, it done well!
It took me 30yrs to warm up enough to an Evo to finally buy a '97 WideGlide.
I bought an 02 Twinkie Softail Springer a couple of years ago, but sold it after two months because it had no soul.
If it doesn't sound, ride, and feel like a shot up B29 trying to limp home on one engine, it ain't a Harley.
That's why I prefer my '72 Shovel head ElectraGlide.
You make good videos.👍
Tc 88 and 103 have a shake rattle and roll feel. Not like my 81 but I always have guys at red lights watching my hands and arms shaking and they always love that old-school rattle.
@@brandonmacon3317
I had a Twinkie 88B with the counter balancer and EFI, and it didn't feel like a Harley at all.
My wife didn't even like to ride on the back of it.
I guess I'm a dinosaur, as I'm still riding my 1949 EL Panhead. Not a hot rod but solid and dependable. Speaking of reusing gaskets, back in the day when we worked on British bikes they used copper head gaskets and we would anneal them and use them again.
There's a lot of good knowledge in in your head brother.... Always appreciate your information that you have...as always...great job brother💯👊🏼😎
My TC103 is awesome.
Cams, heads, inlet, injector, tune, open header, baker trans etc etc etc.
Pulls like a train.
The Road King gets along.
My 96 built out to a 107 had all of that done barring the bottom end . Builder said mine was good even though I was keen for a Darkhorse Crank to give me that forever feels..👍🏻🇦🇺
Like my TCs. 88 in my 01 fatboy and 103 in my 11 Roadglide....vids are always informative. good job
What I have found with both my SGS 103 and Heritage 103 is to do a stage one, tune them and then ride them. I have thousands of trouble free miles on both of them. When I feel like thrashing a V-Twin I get on my KTM Super Duke 1290 and go shred...that's it, stone cold reliable. Love the vids GixxerFoo, keep it up!
I broke my Baker compensator and Baker manual chain tensioner after 2 years....went with the Dark Horse comp eliminator and back to original stock primary chain tensioner.....good decision so far
BEST ENGINE HARLEY EVER CAME OUT WITH
Does this comment apply to the 03 twin cam 88?
So what you're saying is replace everything but the cases and you'll have a great motor
2015 TC 22k miles so far. Just had the tw222 put in, and that OE fuel moto oil pump. I originally ordered the SS oil pump, then I seen one of your previous videos, and returned it and bought the OE+. Thanks for the advice
I've got a twincam with S&S heads and other goodies!, it hauls ass and preferred it to the M8's I've ridden!
Keep the videos coming love your stuff
I have a Twin Cam 103HO twin cooled, it has 34,000 miles on the clock and hasn't had an issue yet!
I have a 2017 BreakOut with 62k miles. No issues yet but the compensator has always been noisy no matter what oil I put in. I just put in a bigger oil pump and changed out the cam chain tensioners/shoes that weren't that bad. All and all, All Is good 💪🏽
You should pop open the camshaft because you are just about at the service interval for the cam change in their tensioners at 40,000 miles if it can't chain breaks its speed it will total your engine
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 the 103 has the hydraulic tensioners from factory, my old TC88 did 80,000 miles on the original chain tensioners and I'll admit, they were about 30 seconds from totalling the engine, the 103s barely looks used.
@@yanceyboyz when I had my Honda motorcycles I adjusted the cam chain at specified intervals according to the shop manual. You would be riding along and the chain with SNAP and you would Coast silently to the road knowing your engine was toast. 1 Harley came out with it I knew they were going to have trouble and they did in spades. All twin cam should have been gear-driven cam stock. I have Cam change on some of my Airhead BMW that have lasted for hundreds of thousands of miles. As soon as you start the engine the tensioner properly tensions the chain. It is a cheap and nasty way of driving a valve train but it works until it breaks and then it destroys your engine. When the cam chain broke in my CX500 Honda it tore through the water pump and broke through the camshaft into pieces. It died three blocks from my place of employment and I just turned around and pushed it back. The mechanics at the shop said we could fix it but the more we took it apart the more damage we discovered. My Sportster which is gear driven has 400,000 miles on the original engine. My Triumph free year for decades never had a speedometer until a cop bitched at me about not having one so I put one on even if it did not work. I don't even remember how many sets of tires I have worn out on that bike in 40 Years of riding it. True I have had to do maintenance on a 50 year old motorcycle but you have to replace things that we're out. All in all though I have not done much to it really except change the oil and tires very little engine work get a little work on the transmission but not much. Clutch basket primary chain front sprocket all original. I did wear out both camshafts after 40 years course I had to split the crankcase to replace them and found the sludge trap almost full. I tossed it and put a brand new one in. She is good for another 50 years. All of my motorcycles are like a stray animal coming to my door and needing a forever home and they get one.
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 the cam chain doesn't break in Harley twin cams, the cam shoes disintegrate and wreck the oil flow/Pump and it was an issue on 88s...the 96s were better and the 103 had the issue resolved.
In saying that my 2000 road king has the 88 and I changed the cam shoes at 80,000 miles, they were absolutely ruined but hadn't given up, I upgraded to the new cam plate and hydraulic tensioners. My 2015 ultra limited with the 103 twin cooled has barely a mark on the cam shoes as it comes stock with the hydraulic chain tensioner. 35,000 miles and smiling.
Also triumph are pretty terrible, here in the UK people have so many issues with them, I have mates with street and speed triples that regularly get their second bike out because the triumph won't play, nearly as bad as Ducati in that respect.
I've had them all, and they have all had issues. The only 100% totally reliable bike I've ever had was a Yamaha R6, my 1998 sportster and my 2015 ultra limited.
I ride a stock '99 Heritage Springer last year evolution motor and its already bulletproof. I may down the road put a cam and a carb kit in it. She's still has fairly low miles. Twin Cam is a good motor.
Evo is solid reliable, the Twin Cams already had a few things that needed to be done to make them right.
Well Gixxer talk about timing two days ago I had a clanking noise in my 103 started stripping it now still haven't found the issues now my Mrs is listening to your video and I'm saying perfect timing just what I need to know and what I should do now she's still laughing for now lmao.
Oh well I think it's time to take it out and do it properly once and for all.
Here comes huge amount of overtime to pay for it but it's worth every cent.
Awesome video brother thanks again.
All the best from NZ 🇳🇿
70,000 miles on my 09 stock crank, 45,000 of those pushing 120 tq and hp and it finally had enough.
You just described my rebuild. I had my engine fully rebuilt at 150K. S&S crank. Timken bearing. S&S 551 Gear drive cams, oil pump, cam plate, and Kevin Baxter lifters. Dark Horse compensator. 107 cylinders with R&R heads set at 10.1 (110 TQ @ 2,000 RPMS 119 Peak TQ @ 3650)
The twin cam engine is better than the panhead the shovelhead the Blockhead and the M8. In order to make the same power as the twin-cam the M8 had to go up 4 in
07 and up TC engines are impressing me . Couple of bikes I take care of are approaching 200,000 km (124,000 miles) with no issues. MOCO in 07 transferred problems to drivetrain with there adjustable primary chain adjuster destroying most bearings on mainshaft, along with disintegrating splines in clutch hub.
Yes, I experienced those issues with the auto tensioner.
Splines in the clutch hub, etc. First time I got into the primary, I discovered the chain was tight as a piano string. Something just didn't seem right about the way it functioned.
I converted my factory auto tensioner to manual, with a little work and about a buck and a half.
@@williamolson3704 Just goes to show you that modern engineers probably never had a pedal bike in their youths, that needed chain adjustment. They were too busy on their smart phones.
2005 and the only things I have yet to replace are the bearings to the Timken and flywheel. R&R Cycles makes good flywheels and then Johnson Hylift makes just about everybody’s lifters.
Everything you said about the twin cam is true with the M8. They have bad oil pumps until 2021, crappy cam plate as well (Put in S&S Cam plate, Oil Pump and lifters with lifter guides). My compensator didn’t last 10k miles (Put in Darkhorse). Clutch basket had more cracks in the a 50 year old driveway (Put in Barnett complete clutch).
yeah and all you have to do is maintain them and leave them alone. 104k on mine and ill ride it across the country right now with no worries. you could put 10k into your engine, or you can ride it till it dies and then buy a used 114 or 107 with 5k on it for 7k.
When I had my 78 kz100 engine rebuilt and bored, the guy didn't check the ring gap and ended up putting stock rings in an oversized piston. When I put the engine back in and got it fired up, it blew oil out of the exhaust because of the big ring gap. I took it back, and he fixed it and reused the Cometics head gasket. So now it leaks. I would reise a head gasket on anything. Rockboxes, maybe, but after all that money spent, it sucks to get an oily boot.
COMMON SENSE ALWAYS PREVAILS JUST LIKE YOU GREAT CHANNEL HUGS BRO
I love your channel and all the great information 👍. I have said this before, I'm lucky, I have a couple of 2002 Dynas that I have fixed those issues early. I agree with you about solid push rods also. However, I do have adjustable 😪. Keep the channel going!!
I just bought a 2005 Road Glide knowing I would need to spend quite a bit to "make it my own." In my opinion, that's the best part about buying an older 88. You can do anything and everything to it and make it unique to your own style and budget. To me, choosing each and every part beats paying 40K plus on a brand new bike any day.
Super good update on the 96er's. Gives me lots of great information, especially if I'm going to jump engine size to the 107. I would port polish, cam, pipe, intake, and a good tune. The bottom end is a good idea, if the engine is pulled anyways. Great video ! Thanks !!
Glad to help! If the motor is coming out it's crazy not to go all the way and get crank done too!
Honestly haven't had issues with my 08 96 Fatboy and I haven't been the most kind while riding her.
That said I'm glad to see that anything I would replace during my planned build anyways is all I need to worry about.
Now what I can't figure out is all the die hard evo guys in the comments, and all I can think is they're happy being slow because I haven't seen a single evo keep up with the pack and need devour rod's like the cookie monster on crack
I have a 05 103" I did all of what you mentioned. It runs at 114hp/127fpt and has been running for over 20k miles, so far so good.
You are only at the halfway mark for inspection and replacement which occurs at 40,000 miles. 1 Twin Cam owner related how he bought a low mileage twin cam that ran but very noisily and when he took the cam cover off the cam chain tensioner was gone and the chain was just flopping around. He was so lucky that it did not snap and total is engine.
I just bought mine ,103” with 819 miles , I wanted to ask you about the cost of bulletproof the engine
Thank you 🙏🏼
@@rododuran9350 Just like the man said. You need to build the bottom end with the bearing and welded crank. That you need to gave done at a good machine shop. I sent my bottom to some place in Wisconsin. For the top end you will want to get the blue S&S cam plate, a gear drive, cam it to your riding conditions (I use wood cams on all of my builds), pistons 10.5:1, and a large intake/TBI. Price will depend on what you put in it but expect at least 5K. I did all of my own work other than the bottom so if you have it done it will cost much more but if you are mechanically sufficient do it yourself, it's not rocket science. I built my bike for torque and fun and that is what I got. If you build it for HP you may never see the benefits of the build. Goog look. Make it happen!
I have a 2000 Electra glide with 33,000 miles. It's had a rough life,started in New York,went to Michigan,now resides in Maine. Noone knows anything about it,vin# doesn't bring anything up thru Harley.
Time to pull it and have it BUILT. It's 24 y.o. but it's "old school" and looks nice now!
So waiting for Harley’s 110 tire shredder kit since June of 22. That’s 9 months and counting. At what point do I need to replace the pressed crank? I knew I would go billet cam plate but which one?? On the fence about the compensater, guess run it till it goes out. I Wes thinking on lower gears set to show off them 259 cams that comes in kit.
My 2011 dyna street bob has the tire shredder that I put in 2017, bought the bike new and dynoed at 106hp/122tq which is more than enough to get into trouble with. Hopefully you get it soon, you'll love it 🤘
My 2012 RK goes into the shop tomorrow, it is making some noise in the camchest, it just turned passed 50,000 miles, I still can't complain.
50k, you did good and had fun! It's that opportunity to upgrade it and pack in another 50K or more on a new bike. Putting power in the bike will make you fall in love all over again.
@@GixxerFoo I know where my income tax return is going, maybe next year house.
Thanks for the info. Own a basically stock 2001 FXSTB purchased it new. Pipes and filter assembly is the only motor changes. Dependable motorcycle. Not fast. That’s what the 2014 Mustang GT is for.
Running my tween cam 103 more than 10 years and 50k miles and never had a problem, well, the compensator of course, I think it’s an excellent motor. At 50k I checked the runout in it, it was about 4 thousands, replaced some essential parts such as cams, tensioners and such and the bike is running like brand new. Would I like to do some flywheel work down the road? Yes would it be worth it? I don’t know. Thanks for the video.
Isn't your crankshaft run out at 4000 is it that too much to replace it with a Gear Drive?
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 S&S wants less than 5 thou runout for their gear drive kit.
@@jaym8027 as a previous Honda owner who had three motorcycles destroyed by cam chain failure resulting and catastrophic engine failure. If I were you I would change to the gear-driven cam shaft while you still can. The cam chain is the Achilles heel of many modern motorcycles because it is a cheap and easy way to drive the valve train but when it fails it results in catastrophic engine failure. A motorcycle as expensive as a Harley big twin should not have cheap parts in the engine resulting in the owner having to drop $5,000 into changing the cheap parts that they put in there. If I were you I would do this just to have the Peace of Mind knowing that you never will have to deal with a cam chain snapping and destroying your engine. Of course I keep my motorcycles for decades. I don't have to worry about my gear driven Sportster or any of my ear driven vintage British motorcycles. Now my Airhead BMWs from the 1970s having campaign but BMWs are different. My BMW 100 / 7 had 500,000 Mi at the time of her demise. I never worried about the cam chain with the BMW.
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 Thannk you Frank. I meant that S&S requires less than .005 runout in the crankshaft in order to install their gear driven cam chest. I didn't write that very clearly.
I always wanted one of those 70's era BMWs, they're really good looking bikes.
I do have an old Triumph squirrelled away in the garage - I'm not worried about cam timing, but the brakes are so primitive that I only ride it around the immediate neighborhood once in a while.
Have a great day!
Iam having my 2012 streetglide done now. .005 runout. Using stock HD cam plate. Cyclorama 570-2 cams. Fueling lifters. S and s oil pump. Leaving top end together. It has 56k miles on it and had no major issues. Oh new head pipe and monster rounds v and h with dyno jet tuner. It gets dyno d this coming week.
I really look forward to your videos for the information you share and appreciate that you make these videos solely to help others. Thankyou.
What I do not appreciate though, is that the need exists to for you to do so, in order to make an American motorcycle from one of the oldest, most recognizable major brands in the world, with possibly the highest cost, (but certainly the most loyal customer base worldwide. Hell, even kids in the poorest of countries covet a Harley T-shirt!), all because HD appear incapable of ever getting engine design right. At this stage they really should understand better.
Japan does.
Improving performance is different (if the customer really wants that), and often comes with penalties, but ensuring customers can simply use the motorcycle in a way that other motorcycle manufacturers manage to get right straight from the factory, is sad....very sad.
Harley need to add step up their game and seriously consider their mechanical design hiring metrics, as opposed to why sales are hurting, increasing their prices and peddling trashy accessories. They are not boutique, they are cool agricultural!
I've owned ironhead Sportsters, Panheads, Evo big twins, one V-Rod, one Buell and now an 88 TC Softail; and loved them all! However only the V-Rod appeared "almost" bulletproof. (Ground clearance, thimble sized gas tank and riding position all were questionable).
Please keep the videos coming, as I doubt HD will be stepping up to the plate any time soon.
Got 73,000 miles on mine. Runs like a top. 2004 WideGlide.
Going into the cam chest of my 06 88”, wish me luck
😎👍
Big thumbs up for the information...
Thanks for the visit!!
My 2009 FLUTCU has S&S crank, SE CAM plate/oil pump, S&S 106 big bore kit with easy start cams. I also just installed an external crank case breather. I also want to install a manual primary chain tensioner.
next time the comp goes out, I'll try the dark horse.
Had a 2007 Electra glide, they say one of the worst bikes made, put 50,000 miles on it never a problem , not a lot of power though just adjusted my riding style, loved my 87 evo Electra glide put a good cam in it and bumped tranny pulley two teeth great riding bike, now have a 2022 road glide 107 m8 learning about that motor now, just ride them take care of them and u usually have a freak bike, thanks for the videos
Thank you very informative information. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! We appreciate the support!
Love your channel. May I suggest considering a lapel mic? ☮
Thank you! I used to use a wired one, l'm looking into getting one of the wireless ones. I've heard some mixed reviews on those.
I've got a 2016 Slim with the HO 103 and I love her. She's got almost 26k on her and the engine is still quiet as far as internal noise is concerned.
Thanks for more great content bro 😊
First of all thank you very much for the information that you put out and I appreciate the time you put in doing this for your views. Secondly I’ve been researching and looking at different years of the HD and wanting to know more information about what’s the best cam for touring bikes to do a cross country trip? Is the stroker 103 good for that or stick with 95 upgrade? A lot of questions that maybe I could put in a email to pick ur brain. Thank you for your time.
Evo and TCs are both great motors.... they both have a storied history of longevity and even though they both have their issues at times, have been known to both last a good amount of time with correct maintenance. Talking about crate motors kind of had me chuckling due to the fact it's easier to find a built crate for an evo cheaply than it is for an 88 96 or 103. Although I do agree with you that the evo is better as it generates less heat in the long run on smaller bikes, on big bikes that need the headroom to get up to speed, a 103 or 96 is perfect. Mix that with ETC and Fuel injection and you have a bike that when used regularly is less likely to leak. The primaries on the 103s are a pain in the long run as far as run put and what not, but for most people, taking long trips in the heat with an oil cooler, the engine is well built enough to last 100k or more. I've seen them numerous times. Even seeing several over 150k miles. I see some evo bias, I would assume knowing that their more be more diehards on this page, but the TCs are great engines up to the 107, and although when you start getting too much torque it takes more of a toll on the compensating side. That is a good upgrade to make early if you're worried about it. I say, ride it til it breaks, fix it and ride it some more. That's what made the evo great, and has made the 88s great as well. Oil changes and not cranking back on the throttle at every stop and make a bike engine last longer just as a car engine will. I've seen several evos with compensator and oiling issues. I even saw a guy on the side of the highway with a head gasket leak so bad that it burnt up the cylinder sleeves and they had to rebuild. Not sure if they were even able to based on runout, which goes back to my argument. Both good motors that get tired over time but will last longer with good maintenance and riding habits
That being said I'd like my next Harley to be an Evo. Lol
Getting ready to order some cams for the 96" either Andrews 48H, Woods TW222 or S&S 583. Not looking for massive power just a little bump up from stock without having to upgrade everything else in the motor.
Any one of those cams you just named are perfect for what you're looking to do. Those are all bolt in cams that will get the job done!
I love the Wood TW222 in my 103. SE cam plate and pump. And Bobby Wood is a helluva great American.
I like my S&S 583 in my 103. Gave me 89hp and 106tq at the rear wheel with a tune. Curve is very very smooth, 42-43 mpg at 80-85 mph in late summer Florida, perfect for touring.
I just put the tw222’s in mine. And just recently got it retuned. Can’t wait for the weather to break.. I did and do a video on it so far, but better one’s coming soon
my 05ultra. 100,000 bought new. added a bigbore, ported the heads after 500 mile break end. I had the cases split balanced crank, 10.5 pistons, 543 geared cams, S&S push rods, timken bearings, high flow oil pump, billet cam plate, new valve springs, 51mm throttle body, new electronic fuel injection, my ported heads, 4 gear cam drive set, all seals, gaskets. it's now a bullet-proof 103. 104hp 104 tq.
Look at all the stuff you had to do to that engine. I could not even begin to imagine the cost of everything that you had to do to that engine. And it makes the same amount of horsepower as my buddies old Honda Valkyrie stock.
@@frankmarkovcijr5459 yeah but it's a Honda 😢
Harley motorcycles straight from the factory especially for the price that they charge should be trouble-free. Most Harley Riders if you asked them and they are honest they will tell you they learn how to ride a motorcycle on a little Japanese motorcycle probably a Honda. Now if you could do all of that stuff to your twin cam engine why does not it come like that stock from the factory and then you can match the horsepower of a twenty-year-old Honda. For the money you guys spent for a stock Harley it should come fully equipped engine wise and everything else should it not? Evolution Motors were designed to alleviate the problems AMF with having with the Shovelhead engine because of the pollution requirements and the crappening of the gas. The Evolution motor solved all of the problems of the Shovelhead as well as making six more horsepower at a lower RPM. The all-aluminum top-end resulted in a very cool running motorcycle that does not cooking oil therefore it lasts practically forever. My Evo Sportster runs 200° to up in August in Florida. You can't get hotter unless you go to hell. Because the engine runs nice and cool the oil stays nice and cool and lubrication cool to motor properly which is why I have four hundred thousand miles on the original motor. Ironically I bought the Sportster knowing that I would have a great selection all shops to do service work on my Sportster. I replace the little bearing in the primary every 50 to 60 thousand miles when it starts to rattle. I have replaced the stator and the primary because it wore out at 250,000 miles and it lasted twenty years. I have gone through 3 belt drive they last me over 100,000 Mi each belt. I actually wore out the front end which was replaced with the front end off a 2009 Sportster brand new. Got the double piston brake upgrade as well but don't feel no difference in breaking. My bike has been supremely reliable and dependable much more than I ever could have hoped for and this is coming from a guy who bought 4 Hondas brand new. Ever since the demise of the Evolution motor Harley has not been able to make a good quality reliable motor. I am Gravely disappointed in everything they do because everything they do from killing off the fuel line of motorcycles killing the Dinah, killing the Evolution Sportster. Concord Harley-Davidson make a motorcycle as reliable as an evolution Sportster get make one as unreliable as a twin cam Milwaukee 8 or revolution Max. When you buy a Honda you don't give a shit if it has a warranty. I wore the hell out of every Honda I bought till the wheels and fell off of them. They were great reliable motorcycles till the day they died but when they died and suffered catastrophic engine failure you could not rebuild them. It was cheaper to buy another Honda. I got 250,000 trouble-free miles and 10 years of trouble-free service from my CX500 Honda that I had in the Air Force. I know Harley-Davidson can make a good fight they have a history of making good bikes they are simply not what they used to be neither are their riders for the most part. And everybody knows what I mean when I say for the most part. My uncle's 193 8 Harley knucklehead weight less than 500 lb with a full tank of gas. It came stock with a 61 cubic inch engine which produced 50 horsepower. It came from the factory with a certificate stating it had been run at 110 miles an hour certified. A big twin used to be a nice light sportbike that ran like the wind and with the Pogo sheet on the hardtail frame as they say it was as calm as the Queen Mary on a nice day at sea. And of course Harleys in those days as all motorcycles were in those days kick-start only. The only proper way to start a motorcycle.
Did a stage one a few years ago and then put s&s 583 cams no lifters or cam plate . My 2015 103 is a monster for power and torque. However I never abuse it.
Great video Gixx, if you are looking for topics for future videos, I would love to know what goes into splitting the cases. Time and materials, what to watch out for,ect. Not sure if I want to go all out with timken bottom end or lefty bearing.
Great channel.
I enjoy tuning in to your show.
Dumb question.......
Without doing any research, where did you come up with "gixerfoo"?
Love the Twin Cam content on your channel…thx! Is there a better compensator for my TC88 B from 2001?
For the 88 you'd have to go with what basically is a drive sprocket like the Sportster, not a bad thing though. They are about 200 bucks but you can also change up your gearing a little bit if you want. Evolution Industries has a pretty wide selection of gearing options.
There are no issues with compensators up to 2005 anyone tells you different is full of shit !
Keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
The days of Harley guys breaking up stolen Harleys for part is long over. Today's Harley-Davidson Rider can barely put gas in the fuel tank.
Yeah hardly anyone still does their own work these days!
@@GixxerFoo I had an argument with the old Harley dealer because she had an oil change special for $100. I told him I could change my oil in my driveway in 20 minutes where I have to work all day to make $100 . For the most part today's Harley Riders could not change the spark plugs.
Wrong.
@@jimfischione2743 unfortunately I am not wrong. Today's Harley Rider would have to Google which end of a screwdriver to use. I have for over 50 years I have watched the Harley Riders deteriorate from what they used to be to what they are now.
It's still going on.
Definitely an on point review! What's your favorite performance exhaust?
I’m proud to say I have most of everything stated!but have Harleys hole-shot kit in my primary- chain and 24 tooth motor sprocket! And I keep my old aluminum umbrella valve covers vs the new stamped steel one’s does anyone have any knowledge on Harley’s softail counter balancer’s for the 88B engine? I’m looking for mileage markers and if anyone has had a failure from one
Dang fine content..Carry on
Love your videos brother
Thanks for the Vid... at a very minimum, High Volume Oil Pump, Oil Cooler, and a Guage to monitor. Target oil change at 2500 miles. I run Amsoil. It's worked for me, 20 years on TC's.... (knock on wood) no mechanical downtime. One more thing, 1 to 1.1 hp per inch. It's a Harley, not gonna keep up with a Busa.... lol
Awesome content my friend! I appreciate you and your input! Im building a stocker 103"( not stroker) road glide fltrx, im a old side Harley wrench.also worked in a circle track race engine shop, just race engines. I understand fuel injection and timing fully also alignment with cams. Im curious though, what is your suggestions for camshafts with stock or not pistons, but, your suggestion on cams for 8- 10lbs of booste? Should i send my heads out to be cnc machined to zippers or others? With the cam change? I don't want the top to overkill the bottom! Thank you!
Good stuff brother thank you ✌️
Thank you for the support!
The past 4 months I’ve bought 5 twin cams for less then 2000 bucks from Harley dealers around me 1 blown motor . One cracked frame the others run and ride great
good to know it takes nothing more than a crankshaft repair to make this engine reliable.
I bought a a 08 police bike from Florida. Was a 96 but with a big bore kit with cams. Head work and a tune. I will tell you with 49k miles on it and me putting 3k on it after i bought it. I can almost keep up with the newer bikes. Plus i like it will almost shake itself to death at a stop sighn...😂😂😂😂😂 need to keep it 4k rpm or more and shes awake.
I like my 88 TC, but I don’t believe that I like it enough to make an airplane engine out of it. There ain’t no pulling over when you’ve got a cam chain tensioner leaving the building. But I have to admit the sound of the idle most get some strange looks around the old airport!
G'day, mate. Appreciate all your helpful content. I'm installing an S&S 110 big bore kit on my 2014 FXDF. I've also got a Barnett clutch & Baker compensator (too late to swap for the Darkhorse!). Considering I've got a 2014 model 103ci, you reckon I should do the crank as well? Cheers for all the great work.
I need your advice bro. We rebuilded 07 Heritage. Installed 110 big bore. Put in all the goodies you talked about in your video but I still feel it is not running smooth. Secondly, it doesn't goes far in first and second gear and I have to upshift really quick. What do you think the issue is? Are we missing something? Appreciate your feedback.
10:36
It is one thing to build a hot rod motor because you want to it is quite another thing to have to replace cheap parts that's Factory put in wrist expensive American made parts that they should have had in the first place instead of the cheap Chinese parts. If they bought all of their imported parts from Honda like their suspension and fuel injection there would be no problem because Honda does not make bad part.
Love my 2002 95 cubic inch built by Jerry Branch. It will eat them M8's.
I have a stock 05 FLHTI with 22,000 miles, i need to remove the motor to fix broken exhaust studs, i dont think i will do any motor upgrades at this time.
Thanks foo!
What's your opinion of the Wood Performance Cam chain conversion kit hydralic cam plate, oil pump etc. that comes with the Fuel Moto 98" big bore kit? Would it work with a stock crank on a 2002 Fatboy with 20k on it?
Ghank you for that info.
I'd run my 2009 twincam against any evo for a 1000 mile iron-butt challenge at 80+ minimum mph , they would have top end leaks and failures way before I have bottom end failures , times change, fuel changes and the "normal" Highway speed you have to run to avoid getting run over has changed too , all in which the Evo was not built for back in 1984-1999 , so if you take all that into place and ride 10,000 miles or more a year on the Highway then I know my Twincam maintenance cost would be less than a evo IN MY OPINION .
Excellent points about times changing, especially average traffic speed... Talking about 90mph average on Phoenix i10 & i17
Hey buddy! Love the channel can you confirm that the 1999-2002 crank was in fact as you said in this video…bolted and not pressed as I have been told ALL twin cams were pressed thanks
Hey Gixxerfoo, how many twin cam motors have you actually worked on.
I regret ever messing with the 103 in my 2014 Fatboy Lo. I had a local shop (well-known) install the Timken bearing along with the S&S 124" with oil pump & cam plate. I swapped the 640 cams for the 585's and this thing has been a flaming pile of shit ever since. A perfectly good 3,000 km bike is now the most unreliable bike I have ever owned. It was in the shop for over a year and then back in 4 times afterwards. I wouldn't buy S&S ANYTHING for my next bike! I'll keep this thing until I can get that new HD 135" in an OEM bike from HD.... then I will trade up and leave it stock except for cams, intake, tune and exhaust. Extensive engine work is a crap-shoot. Either the parts quality is garbage or the shop is. The consumer never knows because both morons point fingers at each other and take no accountability!
I went with a Baker comp for my 2010 twin cam, before i saw the Dark Horse.
If i have to do it again...
The Baker is a really good product and they do last a long time. They must of had a bad run or something there for a bit, they had some failures for a short time.
@@GixxerFoo I was impressed with mine when i installed it. It looked very well made.
Good vid, Sir
Much appreciated! Thank you!
What exhaust was that at 10:07? Are those hi-flow cats, mini mufflers or resonators? Never saw that before. Wouldn't they slow the exhaust velocity down being that close to the heads?
100% agree with your advice. Most of it was done to my 2002 FXD, that now is a 103cci. (Stage IV SE)
I have a 2 in 1 Danmoto exhaust system on it (cheap stuf) but it sounds and looks good (for me).
Only 1 small negative with this total setup, the SE-259 cams have a big dip in Tq from 2500 to 3500rpm.
And thoughts on a different exhaust, that could flatten that dip a bit?
Why would you put all that money into the motor and cheap out on the exhaust? I would definitely get rid of the danmoto and look into a better performing 2-1 like a thunderheader or D&D
How many performance Harleys have you built? I’m just curious?