I'll tell you why fashion seems to suck nowadays. It's not that the talents is gone. It's like you said there are plenty of new designers making cool stuff. The problem is that the landscape for fashion to exist was obliterated due to the internet. Fashion, subcultures, and styles pretty much exist to serve for likes online. Things don't really have the time to grow organically. Groups form online rather than a club or place. Wear stuff, take a picture, take it off. Boutiques and showrooms aren't interested finding new talent, they want the "list"; (Rick Owens, Yohji, Commes, LV, Dior, etc.) I've heard the question given to so many new brands "How much are you already selling?",...they are new... The consumer base at large isn't looking for new or interesting, the are looking for hype, likes, upvotes. Don't even get me started on the effect that "creative director" is having on the industry. Helps line my pockets, but it still isn't good.
I completely agree that this is the fashion atmosphere atm, but I dont doubt that soon there will be a brand that it just clicks for and they understand how to navigate online retail and promotion in a way that enhances the industry. For the longest time luxury wasnt online at all and I think they lost a lot of relevance because of that, but I do believe it will change at some point
@@understitchYT Oh, you are right. New brands are just doing everything themselves now. Releasing clothes when they choose, creating their own sales networks, creating their own ecosystems. The weakness of these giant brands is that they are stretched too thin. Slowness and consistency are becoming the new aspects of luxury.
@@geminisykii I think it's not possible for truly new brands to do that, they dont have the cult following of a brand like Jaquemus to actually pull it off successfully, and unfortunately a lot of brands have all but died because of both their inability to keep up with the rigorous fashion week scheduling and lack of pull to mke their own, we have lost great designers over the years like Christopher Shannon, Lou Dalton, even Nasir Mashar because of it, which though they are all still around, none have the same influence as they once did, simply because they dont show as regularly as the big brands. It's rather unfair really
@@understitchYT To add to that, not many brands have the budget and resources to justify doing such showmanship either. Having a simple show in Paris with a professional production team costs a least a few dozen thousands of euros. I imagine that temporarily closing off the Salin de Giraud, sculpting out a salt mountain in a walkable runway (Mica struggled in those heels regardless, according to Vogue) and having your team, supermodels, journalists and celebrities go out their way to travel to Arles chalks up to *at least* half a million euros. Digital shows did level out the playing field, but even then those that followed the format of runway shows (walking up and down) were better received by the public.
I don’t know why people say it was better b4, I feel it has changed but neither it got better not worse! Fashion is supposed to be art! It’s like you are expressing not only yourself but also you are portraying cultures & subculture & also portraying moods. It’s not supposed to be “pretty” or it’s not exactly supposed to have “cute” aesthetic ! It’s also about pop culture, history & so many things! I love how you explain things ! So much to learn from your videos !
My issue with Maria Grazia at Dior is her giving us absolutely nothing new. It's always a rehash with her. There might be some new ideas sprinkled sparsely throughout her work but it's always referencing Dior itself. Her point of view is so narcissistic about celebrating the brand and that's her only trope. I've only seen one amazing, consistent collection from her since she's been there and that's a problem for me. She's amazing but she's rigid and unwilling to look at anything other than the archives. Her pov to me feels like a stunning ornate but really dusty library filled with really old books. Boring
I’m not sure if she’s in charge of the sneakers and footwear in general but they seem to be made of cheap materials. That’s why I haven’t added any Dior to my shoe collection
@@mrandmrscorona8658 I think as a creative director she's mostly in charge of which designs get made (any of the designs offered by the creative team via her briefing) which involves accessories, fabrication etc. Also in charge of the look of the brand online, stores. She's the driving force creatively for Dior women's so it's mostly because of her, good or bad.
In a way this honestly shifted my perspective. I feel like I’ve been fatigued by the commercialization and extreme prices that these huge Maisons charge for non couture items. It’s actually refreshing to find Bode’s and the likes because it really is more justifiable to see $800 on the price tag when someone had to source and produce things by hand or in small quantities because they simply do t have money to mass produce. It’s also crazy how people talk about fashion not being good anymore. When I think about people yearning for the time of Christobol Balenciaga I think, you and I would never ever be able to even get our hands on those garments. Like these people made clothes for actual kings and dukes. We should be grateful in a way for modern fashion
I love what you said about bitchiness being a “right of passage” in fashion. If it’s something you love, there’s no reason to prove you love it by fitting an M.O.
Fashion was great during every era. But people need to understand that even those that create these fashions, maintain a certain style , a personal style during all this hype of trends. You need to look at new things or new designers or old designers that enhance their personal style. Let the die hard wear Gucci or Rick head to toe religiously if they want, but developing a personal style can be timeless.
Thank you for taking this topic to put a spotlight on new designers! There are so many unsung fashion hero’s who don’t get any attention the way they should. And thank you for making your videos!
My parents as well as my grandmothers were very fashionable. My mom could sew like she work for a couture house in Paris. This is where my fashion comes from. My mom was a fashion model. I’ve been a fashion model since I was 8 years young. I like to discover new designers like Miles George Daniels. His concept is extraordinary beautiful in a particular way. His way. I also simply love Paolo Carzana.
You are so wise! I remember being a teenager and watching Alexander McQueen's Voss show with Kate and being completely blown away with what fashion could do. It's not that there will never be a designer as talented as McQueen but *I* will never be 16 again and experience that level of a fashion show for the first time ever again.
I just want to say some of your videos I like the most, are those you mentioned talking about new less mainstream designers. Personally I am always looking for new designers for inspiration, because I find them more relatable and innovative, and your videos have already shown me so many that are now some of my favs now... Pls don't stop making those videos ✨🙏
To me why fashion is not the same is poor quality of fabrics. It's so hard to find good thick materials. And if I do, they are usually difficult to access.
I'm not too deep into the designer world thing, but I can tell you that Gucci was much better when Tom Ford was the one doing the design. Today's Gucci for like the past 5 years feel like someone is shopping at some 70's granny's closet and getting dressed in that closet in the dark.
At least it interesting enough for you to pay attention to what Alexandre's doing? Do you remember anything about Gucci between Tom Ford and Alexandre Michelé? Even if you don't like it, don't you have to give it some credit for not boring you?
Very interesting video. Fashion was different 30 years ago because there was a lack of available sources unlike today.Think you young guys forget how hard it was to even see whole collections. I was fascinated (maybe obsessed) with Westwood from 80's through to 90's. Then Galliano and McQueen. When it was fashion week you had to go out and buy all the newspapers to find pictures on the collections. We also had to rely on a BBC show The Clothes Show for video footage. If you were lucky programs like This Morning or GMTV would show snips of the collections. It was hard work Then these catwalk magazines use to come out and you really had to search for them . I think there was one called GAP which was Japanese which would feature collections but not full Then satellite TV came so Sky News would always do features on London Fashion Week and Paris because Westwood, Galliano and McQueen were so big then It is just over exposed now and there is too much stuff to work through before you find something good or well written .
as a 30 year old: yes. everything (including music and movies) sucks now that im not 15 anymore. eta: sarah burton gets a lot of crap but shes worked with mcqueen since the beginning. i like that she focuses on what women actually want to wear IRL instead of doing the high concept runway shows that McQueen was famous for. we have so many designers out there doing stuff like that that sarah burton does not need to keep up with them.
@@kahys2377 haha i was mostly joking, like i try to keep up with new stuff but it all sounds the same as stuff i already know and like so why bother. like how my mom doesnt listen to lady gaga cuz she can just listen to abba instead. but i liked discord records bands like black eyes, and screamo like blood brothers.
Yes it's getting worse it's look a like. But big fashion houses removing their heritages to beocome mainstreem is big money. Sad. Agreed. New designers are more fresh and i hope they're get more attention.
I just hope people start focusing on the new brands coming up if they're tired of the repetition from the big houses rather than complain that all of fashion is not creative when that's just not true.
Creative directors are getting greedy and not respecting their respective houses, whilst the latter copy and paste archives and cross their fingers. It was inevitable with every passing season but fashion has simply come to the point where innovation has run quite barren because there’s only so many ways to reinvent a piece, or a color, or a fabric. The boom in fashion in the late 90’s paved the way for the early 2000’s escapade of trends and fads. Now I’m afraid we’ll have to wait for the next new thing.
I don't think innovation has run barren at all, there are so many designers I can mention that have a very distinct and fresh point of view through their designs. Maybe at some of the major fashion houses, i'd definitely agree but that doesn't reflect fashion in it's entirety.
The problem today is the designers who embrace the most vulgar and crass aspects of our culture. Bad taste has always been with us, but fashion used to present its antithesis. Designers didn't sink to that level and embrace it, rather they rejected it. The latest menswear collection at Givenchy, and Balenciaga HC exemplify garbage fashion. But there will always be talented designers like Andrew Gn, for example.
Haven’t watch the video yet but personally it seems like everyone thinks fashion is just aesthetic you can buy something you like an the first thing somebody will say is what aesthetic is that like I’m pretty sure everybody on TikTok will be so confused what you are wearing in they’ll be like it’s a very interesting aesthetic maybe you just like that hat or like Walters stuff
I just think thats how the majority have and have always purchased clothing. Many people just want to look pretty, and theres nothing inherently wrong with that. But, the masses now learning about luxury, and more importantly buying luxury, it means their business now targets those people as well. Prada/Gucci/Balenciaga have very much pivoted from what insdiers wanted to now what will make the most buzz or press and I think the big catalyst was sex and the city, which really was the first mass media piece that sold high fashion to the everyperson. But all in all, brands tend to be creating to sell now, not creating to excite because their target market has changed; which ultimately means the clothes are more palettable, black and less exciting
You are right! I rushed to click on this video because of GG’s Alessandro… Had it been some one else on your thumbnail I might have waited longer or may be even passed
But also, if youtubers *only* do big brands then they don't look authentic, so finding a balance between authenticism and getting views is probably one of the harder things to do, but I think Ayo does it very sucessfully, Im always interested in what he has to say
People are more "label who*es" instead of "fashion mavens." As a fashion civilian, I've never understood when it's announced "so-and-so from the House of Dior." I understand Dior wants to keep making money after the original creator has died due to capitalism, but fashion IS art that is an extension of the being that's creating it. People are unique and their uniqueness can't be replicated. Great copies can come, but there's nothing like the authentic creator. So it saddens me that new designers aren't recognized or shut out by the elite popular kids fashion club. As a fashion civilian and non fashion who*e....I want to see innovative ideas from the actual people who create them with their own name in lights.
Garment workers who operate under every single fashion business should unionize, demand better rights and wages to improve their conditions. It is quite sad how this is thrown under the bus in the name of bootlicking.
How was your experience at Stella McCartney? There’s not one video of people who’ve worked/intern there. I would love to hear, learn and know about your experience
Lol ppl are stuck in the past. Laquan Smith, Jacquemus, Mowalola, Amina Muaddi, Tokyo James, Area, Alai, Casey Cadwaller at Mugler, Olivier at Balmain, Casablanca even Off White etc we have great designers right now !!!
To make the news and capture people's attention ...the fashions have to be outrageous , ridiculous and basically unwearable except for a masquerade ball or as an art piece in a museum. Good quality ,innovative but well made wearable pieces and their creators don't get the attention they deserve.
That's not true. Remember Phoebe Philo's Celine? Unwearble avant guard clothing is mainly reserved for couture collections. And a lot of couture is at least wearable enough for a red carpet. Ready to Wear, is exactly that. Wearable things to be sold in (extremely expensive) stores.
Oh I can tell you why MGC is a rachitic designer in five main points ( there are lot more points but I will keep that for another video) 1- Remember the MJC Valentino, with these awful legins under a ridiculous tutu. We tought that it was Pierpaolo piccolini vision but guest what? When MJC leave Valentino, we discover a true star who design dress for woman, with the love of colors, feminity, and contemporary bodies and silhouettes. 2. When you can't make a clear differenciation between HC and RTW... you are not a good designer. Not that the RTW is too good to be RTW, but rather that HC is so basic that it seems to be a Zaraesc RTW. 3. As she did previouly at Valentino, in 7 years + she only work on one and only silhouette... oh maybe two. The bar suit as you mentionned and the antic greec silhouette for gowns. How is it possible to made 12 collections a year during 7 years, with the same silhouette?? 84 collections!!! 4. When you have cotton t-shirt with texts print on in a HC collection, your are clearly not a good designer. 5. The most important point is when you look at MJC collection, it seems like she design not for the women of today, the really women, but for a kind of fantasie of ideal posh teenager who attend private school in swizerland and spend holidays around the Constance lake. It is not the reality. Her vision of the woman look in the same time so matronly and so juvénile. Look at her models? It lack of the essence of our time, our way of life. In 50 years, do you really think that the MJC aesthetic will be the fashion essence of our era? No i don't think so. As an artist myself, not in fashion but in architecture, you are considered good when you are able throught your art to describe your era, the way of life of your socity, in politics, economics pop culture, art, ect... Coco Chanel was so 20's, Schiaparelli so 30's, Dior so 50's, saint laurent so 60's and mainly 70's, Mugler so 80's Lagerfeld so 90's, 2000's or gallianno 2000's. I dont love the work of Demna Gvassalia but I think he is a good designer because he's work is soo 2020's. In 50 years, when people will talk about fashion of our time, they will talk about Balenciaga of Demna, Valentino of PPP and Gucci of Michele. Not about Dior of Maria Chiuri. My mother explain me that in the 90's, the Dior catalogue for each collection was gigantic. Gianfranco Ferre was a boss to making desirable clothes for women. Now when you go the the Dior website. There is nothing to buy except bags, cheap accessories and perfumes. I'm sure she bring a lot of money to Bernard Arnaud, but for me she is not a designer, maybe a product manager, but certainly not a designer or an artist.
I've personally seen people wearing less and less, more cut outs more backless things that make it difficult if you NEED a bra. Its becoming 'less is more' but I feel it leaves fashion looking a bit boring.
What do you think is the best way to grow your style for fashion design. I love to make clothes but i don’t want them to feel unoriginal… sometimes they don’t and sometimes i don’t know. I can’t wait until i study fashion design but what do you think is the best way to go on your creative journey… is it just out of pure imagination or inspiration or ???? How do i get better at creating my own designs ?
Fashion was better 30ish years ago. But the pendulum always swings back. Right now the fashion world is too wrapped up in capitalism. But it always swings back.
Girl/Guy economy is not a 20 year repeat trend cycle 😑😑 we will most likely enter the era of late stage capitalism and being more terminally online, theres no guarantee it'll turn back.
That was the argument the Dior team made to defend what Maria did, I was just using their argument against them. That being said, the collection that took inspo from Greek Mythology is what they were referring to, which actually makes sense. The people that were integrated to society and seen as Greek were native Greeks. The slaves and prisoners of war can’t be counted as part of society because that’s not how they were viewed.
@@FashionRoadman Yes i was poking fun at the point they were making. But still, this idea of what white people are is so fleeting and means something different to different people.
Some of the you tube Channels what people are wearing ..I can't believe what comes out of some peoples months..Narcissists and cringe worthy..... I'm wearing Rick with blah blah blah. Rick Owens is cool but I agree he has cultivated a twat following. Ive actually heard a you tuber say in his clips, Its cool seeing older people waring Margiela, Viv ..hello with out our support over the years these labels would not exist, We the older ( over 40) generation wore the "cool" designers before the young try hards... I dare say some of these designers are laughing all the way to the bank with the hidden of rob the foolish and vain. Fair enough ...hit while the iron is hot- I like your words they are spot on!.
Exactly those types of videos sometimes are so insufferable when you see the way they talk about their clothes. 'Uh its actually THRIFTED' like girl just tell us whats on the tag but they'll never hesitate to tell you if a piece is from dior or gucci even if its thrifted, it'll literally be the first thing that'll come out of their mouths.
This response is subjective. The business of fashion has changed and it is much more commercial and corporate and there is less focus on fashion as a form of art. So you will never see a golden age of couture again like 40s/50s etc.
Just depends where you're looking. If you're looking at the big brands like Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc that are owned by conglomerates like LVMH and Kering and are now essentially cash machines then i'd agree but that doesn't represent all of fashion. There are so many designers doing insane things like Kei Ninomiya creating garments with no seams, Sindiso Khumalo innovating textiles and creating new fabrics, Uma Wang creating new dyeing processes etc. - it honestly reminds me of Issey Miyake's fabric research in the 80s. I just hope that eventually people get tired of being sold $400 t-shirts by these conglomerate brands and focus on the newer brands doing really interesting stuff.
I think designers then had a free playing field and could come up with anything. Today, you really can't come up with new stuff they just work around what existed then. And in their strive to move away from the norm, what they create just looks so unorthodox, it simply makes no sense. But that is what makes them interesting and unique. I think we are afraid to move away to move from what we know.
Style, class and luxury materials are > fashion. Now cheap materials, horrible designs, homeless fit. The reason is that there are a lot of young tacky new rich people with a lot of money and bad taste.
I was referring to Greek natives by ethnicity not slaves and when I said it I was saying it in context of the argument that Dior was trying to make to defend what Maria did.
I wasn't referring to slaves either but African (mostly referred to as Ethiopian) cultures the Greek encountered when setting up colonies and trade routes in North Africa.
Ah yes Ethiopia and Greece have had a very long standing relationship going back to the trade agreements they had. I can’t remember but I think the word Ethiopia actually derived from a Greek word but I couldn’t tell you the Greek word as I don’t speak the language and can’t remember I’d have to Google it 😂
I have a different experience with the rick owens community than you do, but maybe i just happened upon the right people. The Philipp Plein community however…
If you are interested about making a cross-over between fashion history and Walter Benjamin, let me know, I would be so pleased about a take on fashion taking Benjamin's work perspective. I high recommend you to read Das-Passagen-Werk for a better understanding of his cosmovision and his great archive work.
it's pronounced "ben-ah-mean" lmao just kidding. would love to see you explore the world of 3D printing and some of the possibilities there? rick fans get hooked on drugs because they think it's trendy
Yes fashion was better 25 yrs. ago by far. The democratization of fashion spearheaded by Anna Wintour to make it more inclusive for dollars was it's downfall. Embracing the likes of the Olsen twins as fashion types with a vision was embarrassing! Allowing the masses without any knowledge of history into once a private enclave is another reason. Vogue has become irrelevant now under Wintour and doesn't have one iconic editor in it's ranks.
You are entirely wrong. There never was always designers or couturier in the modern sens. . And it quite possible that in a near future this entire industrie might be complethly gone. Fashion designers and couturier as we know it can only exist in a democratic society.
It depends. Suppose you are not a young gen z who experienced the 80s or 90s fashion first-hand. And see it shoved down your throat again by a lazy, non-creative designer trying to re-work those looks.. Yes, fashion sucks. But if you haven’t been around long enough to know the repeat cycle. Fashion must be amazing. 🙄
Fashion has always had repeat cycles though that’s just the nature of it. In the 80s & 90s - Mugler hourglass suits from earlier Dior aesthetics - Armani Power Shoulders & Tailoring in the 90s mimicked earlier british tailoring silhouettes -- the list goes on. It all comes down to how different it is in the context of everything else being shown.
Can’t listen to this.. fashion was created ,, not by designers .. but from culture .. designers just translated it into a ‘thing’.. now the ‘thing’ is to wear designers.. & say ‘it’s Fashion’.. it’s Over ,, ! People are looking fir something Real.. which has been LOST
www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2019/02/27/dior-runway-show-had-thought-provoking-feminist-commentary-again-clothes-meh/
I'll tell you why fashion seems to suck nowadays. It's not that the talents is gone. It's like you said there are plenty of new designers making cool stuff. The problem is that the landscape for fashion to exist was obliterated due to the internet. Fashion, subcultures, and styles pretty much exist to serve for likes online. Things don't really have the time to grow organically. Groups form online rather than a club or place. Wear stuff, take a picture, take it off. Boutiques and showrooms aren't interested finding new talent, they want the "list"; (Rick Owens, Yohji, Commes, LV, Dior, etc.) I've heard the question given to so many new brands "How much are you already selling?",...they are new... The consumer base at large isn't looking for new or interesting, the are looking for hype, likes, upvotes. Don't even get me started on the effect that "creative director" is having on the industry. Helps line my pockets, but it still isn't good.
I completely agree that this is the fashion atmosphere atm, but I dont doubt that soon there will be a brand that it just clicks for and they understand how to navigate online retail and promotion in a way that enhances the industry. For the longest time luxury wasnt online at all and I think they lost a lot of relevance because of that, but I do believe it will change at some point
@@understitchYT Oh, you are right. New brands are just doing everything themselves now. Releasing clothes when they choose, creating their own sales networks, creating their own ecosystems. The weakness of these giant brands is that they are stretched too thin. Slowness and consistency are becoming the new aspects of luxury.
@@geminisykii I think it's not possible for truly new brands to do that, they dont have the cult following of a brand like Jaquemus to actually pull it off successfully, and unfortunately a lot of brands have all but died because of both their inability to keep up with the rigorous fashion week scheduling and lack of pull to mke their own, we have lost great designers over the years like Christopher Shannon, Lou Dalton, even Nasir Mashar because of it, which though they are all still around, none have the same influence as they once did, simply because they dont show as regularly as the big brands. It's rather unfair really
@@understitchYT To add to that, not many brands have the budget and resources to justify doing such showmanship either. Having a simple show in Paris with a professional production team costs a least a few dozen thousands of euros. I imagine that temporarily closing off the Salin de Giraud, sculpting out a salt mountain in a walkable runway (Mica struggled in those heels regardless, according to Vogue) and having your team, supermodels, journalists and celebrities go out their way to travel to Arles chalks up to *at least* half a million euros. Digital shows did level out the playing field, but even then those that followed the format of runway shows (walking up and down) were better received by the public.
Periodt!!!
I don’t know why people say it was better b4, I feel it has changed but neither it got better not worse! Fashion is supposed to be art! It’s like you are expressing not only yourself but also you are portraying cultures & subculture & also portraying moods. It’s not supposed to be “pretty” or it’s not exactly supposed to have “cute” aesthetic ! It’s also about pop culture, history & so many things!
I love how you explain things ! So much to learn from your videos !
They’re referring to the quality of clothing
@@servalkorion686 30 years ago they were complaining about how quality in the past was better.
If you see artistic stuff on MJC work, please let me know dear.
My issue with Maria Grazia at Dior is her giving us absolutely nothing new. It's always a rehash with her. There might be some new ideas sprinkled sparsely throughout her work but it's always referencing Dior itself. Her point of view is so narcissistic about celebrating the brand and that's her only trope. I've only seen one amazing, consistent collection from her since she's been there and that's a problem for me. She's amazing but she's rigid and unwilling to look at anything other than the archives. Her pov to me feels like a stunning ornate but really dusty library filled with really old books. Boring
Absolutely agree with what Dior has been doing! Maria is making it boring
I’m not sure if she’s in charge of the sneakers and footwear in general but they seem to be made of cheap materials. That’s why I haven’t added any Dior to my shoe collection
@@mrandmrscorona8658 I think as a creative director she's mostly in charge of which designs get made (any of the designs offered by the creative team via her briefing) which involves accessories, fabrication etc. Also in charge of the look of the brand online, stores. She's the driving force creatively for Dior women's so it's mostly because of her, good or bad.
Fashion gatekeeping is getting worse day by day. I don't know why people are so proud of becoming gatekeepers nowadays lol
In a way this honestly shifted my perspective. I feel like I’ve been fatigued by the commercialization and extreme prices that these huge Maisons charge for non couture items. It’s actually refreshing to find Bode’s and the likes because it really is more justifiable to see $800 on the price tag when someone had to source and produce things by hand or in small quantities because they simply do t have money to mass produce. It’s also crazy how people talk about fashion not being good anymore. When I think about people yearning for the time of Christobol Balenciaga I think, you and I would never ever be able to even get our hands on those garments. Like these people made clothes for actual kings and dukes. We should be grateful in a way for modern fashion
I love what you said about bitchiness being a “right of passage” in fashion. If it’s something you love, there’s no reason to prove you love it by fitting an M.O.
Fashion was great during every era. But people need to understand that even those that create these fashions, maintain a certain style , a personal style during all this hype of trends. You need to look at new things or new designers or old designers that enhance their personal style. Let the die hard wear Gucci or Rick head to toe religiously if they want, but developing a personal style can be timeless.
Thank you for taking this topic to put a spotlight on new designers! There are so many unsung fashion hero’s who don’t get any attention the way they should. And thank you for making your videos!
My parents as well as my grandmothers were very fashionable. My mom could sew like she work for a couture house in Paris. This is where my fashion comes from. My mom was a fashion model. I’ve been a fashion model since I was 8 years young. I like to discover new designers like Miles George Daniels. His concept is extraordinary beautiful in a particular way. His way. I also simply love Paolo Carzana.
where do you find these new designers?
You are so wise! I remember being a teenager and watching Alexander McQueen's Voss show with Kate and being completely blown away with what fashion could do. It's not that there will never be a designer as talented as McQueen but *I* will never be 16 again and experience that level of a fashion show for the first time ever again.
I really appreciate your fashion knowledge 🙌🏾🙌🏾
Thanks ❤️
Please keep educating us on new upcoming fashion designers even if the videos get fewer views, these are precious ✨💎
I just want to say some of your videos I like the most, are those you mentioned talking about new less mainstream designers. Personally I am always looking for new designers for inspiration, because I find them more relatable and innovative, and your videos have already shown me so many that are now some of my favs now... Pls don't stop making those videos ✨🙏
To me why fashion is not the same is poor quality of fabrics. It's so hard to find good thick materials. And if I do, they are usually difficult to access.
Please do a deep dive into Rick Owens' fandom
I'm not too deep into the designer world thing, but I can tell you that Gucci was much better when Tom Ford was the one doing the design. Today's Gucci for like the past 5 years feel like someone is shopping at some 70's granny's closet and getting dressed in that closet in the dark.
At least it interesting enough for you to pay attention to what Alexandre's doing? Do you remember anything about Gucci between Tom Ford and Alexandre Michelé? Even if you don't like it, don't you have to give it some credit for not boring you?
New subscriber here, I really enjoy your content.
Welcome!
Very interesting video. Fashion was different 30 years ago because there was a lack of available sources unlike today.Think you young guys forget how hard it was to even see whole collections.
I was fascinated (maybe obsessed) with Westwood from 80's through to 90's. Then Galliano and McQueen.
When it was fashion week you had to go out and buy all the newspapers to find pictures on the collections. We also had to rely on a BBC show The Clothes Show for video footage. If you were lucky programs like This Morning or GMTV would show snips of the collections. It was hard work
Then these catwalk magazines use to come out and you really had to search for them . I think there was one called GAP which was Japanese which would feature collections but not full
Then satellite TV came so Sky News would always do features on London Fashion Week and Paris because Westwood, Galliano and McQueen were so big then
It is just over exposed now and there is too much stuff to work through before you find something good or well written .
as a 30 year old: yes. everything (including music and movies) sucks now that im not 15 anymore. eta: sarah burton gets a lot of crap but shes worked with mcqueen since the beginning. i like that she focuses on what women actually want to wear IRL instead of doing the high concept runway shows that McQueen was famous for. we have so many designers out there doing stuff like that that sarah burton does not need to keep up with them.
what records/albums did you enjoy during you’re teenage years?
@@kahys2377 haha i was mostly joking, like i try to keep up with new stuff but it all sounds the same as stuff i already know and like so why bother. like how my mom doesnt listen to lady gaga cuz she can just listen to abba instead. but i liked discord records bands like black eyes, and screamo like blood brothers.
Yes it's getting worse it's look a like. But big fashion houses removing their heritages to beocome mainstreem is big money. Sad. Agreed. New designers are more fresh and i hope they're get more attention.
I just hope people start focusing on the new brands coming up if they're tired of the repetition from the big houses rather than complain that all of fashion is not creative when that's just not true.
8:10 Wow. “We never understand what we are living through until we look at things in hindsight.”
Creative directors are getting greedy and not respecting their respective houses, whilst the latter copy and paste archives and cross their fingers. It was inevitable with every passing season but fashion has simply come to the point where innovation has run quite barren because there’s only so many ways to reinvent a piece, or a color, or a fabric. The boom in fashion in the late 90’s paved the way for the early 2000’s escapade of trends and fads. Now I’m afraid we’ll have to wait for the next new thing.
I don't think innovation has run barren at all, there are so many designers I can mention that have a very distinct and fresh point of view through their designs. Maybe at some of the major fashion houses, i'd definitely agree but that doesn't reflect fashion in it's entirety.
I can't believe people are saying this when Harris Reed is an upcoming designer and his stuff is amazing lol I wonder what you think of him.
I love your voice. Please make a podcast
The problem today is the designers who embrace the most vulgar and crass aspects of our culture. Bad taste has always been with us, but fashion used to present its antithesis. Designers didn't sink to that level and embrace it, rather they rejected it. The latest menswear collection at Givenchy, and Balenciaga HC exemplify garbage fashion. But there will always be talented designers like Andrew Gn, for example.
Haven’t watch the video yet but personally it seems like everyone thinks fashion is just aesthetic you can buy something you like an the first thing somebody will say is what aesthetic is that
like I’m pretty sure everybody on TikTok will be so confused what you are wearing in they’ll be like it’s a very interesting aesthetic maybe you just like that hat or like Walters stuff
tumblr poisoning is what that sounds like
I just think thats how the majority have and have always purchased clothing. Many people just want to look pretty, and theres nothing inherently wrong with that. But, the masses now learning about luxury, and more importantly buying luxury, it means their business now targets those people as well. Prada/Gucci/Balenciaga have very much pivoted from what insdiers wanted to now what will make the most buzz or press and I think the big catalyst was sex and the city, which really was the first mass media piece that sold high fashion to the everyperson. But all in all, brands tend to be creating to sell now, not creating to excite because their target market has changed; which ultimately means the clothes are more palettable, black and less exciting
You are right! I rushed to click on this video because of GG’s Alessandro…
Had it been some one else on your thumbnail I might have waited longer or may be even passed
But also, if youtubers *only* do big brands then they don't look authentic, so finding a balance between authenticism and getting views is probably one of the harder things to do, but I think Ayo does it very sucessfully, Im always interested in what he has to say
People are more "label who*es" instead of "fashion mavens." As a fashion civilian, I've never understood when it's announced "so-and-so from the House of Dior." I understand Dior wants to keep making money after the original creator has died due to capitalism, but fashion IS art that is an extension of the being that's creating it. People are unique and their uniqueness can't be replicated. Great copies can come, but there's nothing like the authentic creator. So it saddens me that new designers aren't recognized or shut out by the elite popular kids fashion club. As a fashion civilian and non fashion who*e....I want to see innovative ideas from the actual people who create them with their own name in lights.
Garment workers who operate under every single fashion business should unionize, demand better rights and wages to improve their conditions. It is quite sad how this is thrown under the bus in the name of bootlicking.
How was your experience at Stella McCartney? There’s not one video of people who’ve worked/intern there.
I would love to hear, learn and know about your experience
Ppl rarely look into creative directors running the brand tbh
Lots thoughtful answers to good questions 👍
Lol ppl are stuck in the past. Laquan Smith, Jacquemus, Mowalola, Amina Muaddi, Tokyo James, Area, Alai, Casey Cadwaller at Mugler, Olivier at Balmain, Casablanca even Off White etc we have great designers right now !!!
Agree !🔥🔥
Casey and his bodysuits aren’t competing with the rest.
Very good information thanks for sharing.
love your videos🤗
Merci!
Many Demna fans are extremely toxic as well it’s crazy…
This is very true
They are primarily drugged-out circuit party people.
To make the news and capture people's attention ...the fashions have to be outrageous , ridiculous and basically unwearable except for a masquerade ball or as an art piece in a museum. Good quality ,innovative but well made wearable pieces and their creators don't get the attention they deserve.
That's not true. Remember Phoebe Philo's Celine? Unwearble avant guard clothing is mainly reserved for couture collections. And a lot of couture is at least wearable enough for a red carpet. Ready to Wear, is exactly that. Wearable things to be sold in (extremely expensive) stores.
@@Genevieve1023 I consider a red carpet event equivalent to a masquerade ball. LOL
Oh I can tell you why MGC is a rachitic designer in five main points ( there are lot more points but I will keep that for another video)
1- Remember the MJC Valentino, with these awful legins under a ridiculous tutu. We tought that it was Pierpaolo piccolini vision but guest what? When MJC leave Valentino, we discover a true star who design dress for woman, with the love of colors, feminity, and contemporary bodies and silhouettes.
2. When you can't make a clear differenciation between HC and RTW... you are not a good designer. Not that the RTW is too good to be RTW, but rather that HC is so basic that it seems to be a Zaraesc RTW.
3. As she did previouly at Valentino, in 7 years + she only work on one and only silhouette... oh maybe two. The bar suit as you mentionned and the antic greec silhouette for gowns. How is it possible to made 12 collections a year during 7 years, with the same silhouette?? 84 collections!!!
4. When you have cotton t-shirt with texts print on in a HC collection, your are clearly not a good designer.
5. The most important point is when you look at MJC collection, it seems like she design not for the women of today, the really women, but for a kind of fantasie of ideal posh teenager who attend private school in swizerland and spend holidays around the Constance lake. It is not the reality. Her vision of the woman look in the same time so matronly and so juvénile. Look at her models? It lack of the essence of our time, our way of life. In 50 years, do you really think that the MJC aesthetic will be the fashion essence of our era? No i don't think so. As an artist myself, not in fashion but in architecture, you are considered good when you are able throught your art to describe your era, the way of life of your socity, in politics, economics pop culture, art, ect... Coco Chanel was so 20's, Schiaparelli so 30's, Dior so 50's, saint laurent so 60's and mainly 70's, Mugler so 80's Lagerfeld so 90's, 2000's or gallianno 2000's. I dont love the work of Demna Gvassalia but I think he is a good designer because he's work is soo 2020's. In 50 years, when people will talk about fashion of our time, they will talk about Balenciaga of Demna, Valentino of PPP and Gucci of Michele. Not about Dior of Maria Chiuri.
My mother explain me that in the 90's, the Dior catalogue for each collection was gigantic. Gianfranco Ferre was a boss to making desirable clothes for women. Now when you go the the Dior website. There is nothing to buy except bags, cheap accessories and perfumes. I'm sure she bring a lot of money to Bernard Arnaud, but for me she is not a designer, maybe a product manager, but certainly not a designer or an artist.
I've personally seen people wearing less and less, more cut outs more backless things that make it difficult if you NEED a bra. Its becoming 'less is more' but I feel it leaves fashion looking a bit boring.
What do you think is the best way to grow your style for fashion design. I love to make clothes but i don’t want them to feel unoriginal… sometimes they don’t and sometimes i don’t know. I can’t wait until i study fashion design but what do you think is the best way to go on your creative journey… is it just out of pure imagination or inspiration or ????
How do i get better at creating my own designs ?
Fashion was better 30ish years ago. But the pendulum always swings back. Right now the fashion world is too wrapped up in capitalism. But it always swings back.
Girl/Guy economy is not a 20 year repeat trend cycle 😑😑 we will most likely enter the era of late stage capitalism and being more terminally online, theres no guarantee it'll turn back.
What brand is the nike sneaker jacket from at 5:44
Tokyo James
@@FashionRoadman AW22 :)
It was definitely quite an statement to mix the title of the video with such an image 😆
Haha - the art of clickbait
“In ancient Greece everyone was white” that’s gotta be the funniest thing i’ve heard all day
That was the argument the Dior team made to defend what Maria did, I was just using their argument against them. That being said, the collection that took inspo from Greek Mythology is what they were referring to, which actually makes sense. The people that were integrated to society and seen as Greek were native Greeks. The slaves and prisoners of war can’t be counted as part of society because that’s not how they were viewed.
@@FashionRoadman Yes i was poking fun at the point they were making. But still, this idea of what white people are is so fleeting and means something different to different people.
I blame that rick Owens community happenning on playboi carti lmaoo
Loool
Just say you should make a video on Greg Lauren I think he’s super underrated just saying your channel is fire 🔥
Greg Lauren? The overpriced stolen patchwork designs 🥴 ewwwwwww
@@cindysantoyo558 I think some creative stuff with his brand I feel like nobody fuck with his stuff but the stuff he make is hard just saying
I’m hoping you meant Craig Green. He’s work is phenomenal.
@@dameandconfused552 no I mean Greg Lauren
Who’s collection is this at 4:40?
Kei Ninomiya FW22
Some of the you tube Channels what people are wearing ..I can't believe what comes out of some peoples months..Narcissists and cringe worthy..... I'm wearing Rick with blah blah blah.
Rick Owens is cool but I agree he has cultivated a twat following. Ive actually heard a you tuber say in his clips, Its cool seeing older people waring Margiela, Viv ..hello with out our support over the years these labels would not exist, We the older ( over 40) generation wore the "cool" designers before the young try hards... I dare say some of these designers are laughing all the way to the bank with the hidden of rob the foolish and vain. Fair enough ...hit while the iron is hot- I like your words they are spot on!.
Exactly those types of videos sometimes are so insufferable when you see the way they talk about their clothes. 'Uh its actually THRIFTED' like girl just tell us whats on the tag but they'll never hesitate to tell you if a piece is from dior or gucci even if its thrifted, it'll literally be the first thing that'll come out of their mouths.
dont worry guys I‘ll be there soon
This response is subjective. The business of fashion has changed and it is much more commercial and corporate and there is less focus on fashion as a form of art. So you will never see a golden age of couture again like 40s/50s etc.
Just depends where you're looking. If you're looking at the big brands like Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc that are owned by conglomerates like LVMH and Kering and are now essentially cash machines then i'd agree but that doesn't represent all of fashion. There are so many designers doing insane things like Kei Ninomiya creating garments with no seams, Sindiso Khumalo innovating textiles and creating new fabrics, Uma Wang creating new dyeing processes etc. - it honestly reminds me of Issey Miyake's fabric research in the 80s. I just hope that eventually people get tired of being sold $400 t-shirts by these conglomerate brands and focus on the newer brands doing really interesting stuff.
Not to mention the unmentionable - Christopher Nemth .. Judy Blame ..Richard Torry .. John MOORE .. eat ect ect.. the silent hero’s.
Do one on the cody chris collection 😏💯
I think designers then had a free playing field and could come up with anything. Today, you really can't come up with new stuff they just work around what existed then. And in their strive to move away from the norm, what they create just looks so unorthodox, it simply makes no sense. But that is what makes them interesting and unique. I think we are afraid to move away to move from what we know.
Style, class and luxury materials are > fashion.
Now cheap materials, horrible designs, homeless fit. The reason is that there are a lot of young tacky new rich people with a lot of money and bad taste.
In ancient Greece not everyone was white, there was quite some trading done with the African continent.
I was referring to Greek natives by ethnicity not slaves and when I said it I was saying it in context of the argument that Dior was trying to make to defend what Maria did.
I wasn't referring to slaves either but African (mostly referred to as Ethiopian) cultures the Greek encountered when setting up colonies and trade routes in North Africa.
But you are absolutely right that the Greek where white in terms of ethnicity. And they did hold many slaves from the fringes of the Aegean Sea.
Ah yes Ethiopia and Greece have had a very long standing relationship going back to the trade agreements they had. I can’t remember but I think the word Ethiopia actually derived from a Greek word but I couldn’t tell you the Greek word as I don’t speak the language and can’t remember I’d have to Google it 😂
Get in line for your political correctness award...
What cap is that @Fashion Roadman?
It's Walter Van Beirendonck.
@@CanCan-wy2bk thank you 🙏🏽
@@colinmakhubela I'm happy to help.
Found it in his Nans dress up box ..
Somone please remove mathew frm Givenchy
Amen!!!!
I have a different experience with the rick owens community than you do, but maybe i just happened upon the right people. The Philipp Plein community however…
Had no idea Phillip Plein even had a community, thought it was all just memes haha
Any fashion designers besides Rick Owens that make clothing you can wear for gym/fitness?
Rip Issey Miyake
I think crazy amount of nepotism within the high fashion industry also plays an important role.
Daddy Owens 😍
can you do a video essay on Jake Paul's new fashion line?
u talked about Issey miyake few days ago n now he no more 🤔
Is fashion going towards minimalism?
That W 😭
Ayo keeping all the W
I love Isabelle benenato
The Rick Owens community 😭😭
Street wear and Rick Owens - Bang on
Hello Book Tote?!
No one wants 2 do research anymore
If you are interested about making a cross-over between fashion history and Walter Benjamin, let me know, I would be so pleased about a take on fashion taking Benjamin's work perspective. I high recommend you to read Das-Passagen-Werk for a better understanding of his cosmovision and his great archive work.
Will definitely check it out!
Muy bueno
it's pronounced "ben-ah-mean" lmao just kidding. would love to see you explore the world of 3D printing and some of the possibilities there? rick fans get hooked on drugs because they think it's trendy
Walter hat 👍🏽
Cant wait to see Maximilian Davis for Salvatore Ferragamo
Selling clothes is getting worst ?
Yes fashion was better 25 yrs. ago by far. The democratization of fashion spearheaded by Anna Wintour to make it more inclusive for dollars was it's downfall. Embracing the likes of the Olsen twins as fashion types with a vision was embarrassing! Allowing the masses without any knowledge of history into once a private enclave is another reason. Vogue has become irrelevant now under Wintour and doesn't have one iconic editor in it's ranks.
You are entirely wrong. There never was always designers or couturier in the modern sens. . And it quite possible that in a near future this entire industrie might be complethly gone. Fashion designers and couturier as we know it can only exist in a democratic society.
Maria grazia would be a good designer at zara or burberry. She dont have the panache for dior. As for galliano he had talent but not the classe.
Everything is recycled it’s all in your own personal touch.
It depends. Suppose you are not a young gen z who experienced the 80s or 90s fashion first-hand. And see it shoved down your throat again by a lazy, non-creative designer trying to re-work those looks.. Yes, fashion sucks. But if you haven’t been around long enough to know the repeat cycle. Fashion must be amazing. 🙄
Fashion has always had repeat cycles though that’s just the nature of it. In the 80s & 90s - Mugler hourglass suits from earlier Dior aesthetics - Armani Power Shoulders & Tailoring in the 90s mimicked earlier british tailoring silhouettes -- the list goes on. It all comes down to how different it is in the context of everything else being shown.
Can’t listen to this.. fashion was created ,, not by designers .. but from culture .. designers just translated it into a ‘thing’.. now the ‘thing’ is to wear designers.. & say ‘it’s Fashion’.. it’s Over ,, ! People are looking fir something Real.. which has been LOST
🄿🅁🄾🄼🄾🅂🄼 😓
Yes. Think about it. 90’s fashion is the worst ever and now that’s the thing.
FASHION IS DEAD!!! nothing new just. Ugly sneakers and big coats!! NEXT!!
I can’t believe your excellent Simone Rocha episode had only 2000 views. People are hype beast crazy for the big boring brands. It’s a pity.