*Vivienne Westwood* -I'm absolutely fascinated by the way she uses some fabrics back in her old 90s show (Not saying that her designs nowadays are bad but it's just that the 90s were way more superior and beautiful when it came to designing clothes. She literally broke barriers and rules and did whatever the hell she wanted too! :D *Guo Pei* -In my opinion she is really underrated, by really, I mean REALLY underrated, her works are the definition of a masterpiece and every single time I see a piece of her artwork I literally get speechless, I would love if would make a video on her!!!! *Gianni Versace* -The legend himself, He knows how to turn a simple dress into an Artwork, I mean look at his collection! The dresses might be made out of simple looking fabric (ik they aren't simple or low quality, but yk what I mean) into a Elegant, chic and Full of colorful touch in it, Its Gianni's secret magic, I believe that makes his dress sexy but at the same time modest and elegant. *Zuhair Murad* -He is also another underrated designer; His works are really feminine, and his works are mostly done in an elegant, beautiful way, The feminines in his work just feels really unique. *Blumarine* -Don't know much about the brand or old other works, But their collection is really playful, pop and the recent collections give me huge y2k vibe!! *Iris Van Herpen* -Do I have to tell????? EDIT 1: I forgot to add *William Travilla* He Designed Marlyin Monroe's most iconic outfit's and truly understood her! EDIT 2: *Park sohee* Aka Miss Sohee is a young couturier how I feel like knows how to play with fabric and shapes of the beautiful, splendid clothes she makes
GUO PEI is soo underrated her work is amazing. And without Vivienne is there Undercover ? N(N) ? Many more brands and styles she brought to the table ?
ALL THESE DESIGNERS ARE SO GOOD. The fact I didn’t even think of some is shameful 😩, Versace, Guo Pei, IRIS VAN HERPEN??? AHHHH, tho I think he might not have put iris in cause they’ve only been around for a short amount of time? Correct me if I’m wrong lol
Jean Paul Gaultier, the OG enfant terrible. One of my favourite fashion designers. He got me hooked and to study fashion designing. Please do an in depth analysis /review on Gaultier.
Helmut Lang should be on this list. Not only for the minimalism and all the sick designs but he was the first to stream a collection on the internet and one of the first to do co-ed shows.
Strongly agree. And don't forget his photography. I was lucky enough to see a version of his table book when it first came out. Utterly stunning. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
*Iris Van Herpen* She's a current designer that I'd point to if I needed to demonstrate the use of nature to inspire design, from creating eco-friendly materials (including stuff like steel), to engineering moving (and wearable) garments and 3-D printing, and creating beautiful silhouettes. It's like nature meets technology and design.
(Intentional) omissions I noticed are Gaultier, Valentino, Westwood, Versace, Raf, Ann Demeulemeester, Philo, and Dries. I guess big commercial American designers like Calvin Klein, DVF, Kors, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger too, but they're a bit different lol. I would definitely love a dive into Maria and her success with sales in contrast to her critical popularity as well as talking about other brands and their relationship to profitability/business relative to quality creative output. I remember a fashion person saying that Akris makes TONS of money, which seemed so random but I guess they corner the rich lady market. Would love to learn more about that.
- Jun Takahashi/Raf Simons/Vivienne Westwood should be on this list as masters of the crossover between fashion and youth culture - Helmut Lang should be on this list as the most prominent proponent of minimalism in designer fashion - Rick Owens should be on this list BECAUSE - Nigo should be on this list as the arguable creator of the streetwear business model - Hedi Slimane should be on this list because he imposed a very influential vision onto menswear in the early aughts (as much as I dislike anything he did past his tenure at Dior Homme) - Gianni Versace and Valentino Garavani should be on this list as proponents of an exquisitely Italian and Mediterranean vision of chic - Also, really no one from the Antwerp Six?
this! he needs to do a round two for sure, these you listed as a kid growing up in the 90s and got into mens fashion as I grew up, these are the staples of that.
Westwood, Gaultier & Versace (both Gianni & Donatella) felt like the most obvious omissions from their cultural significance that extends beyond the clothes. You left out quite a few significant Americans: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein & Donna Karan to name a few. Some less obvious choices but worth noting are Viktor & Rolf, RAF(!)…also the work of Miguel Adrover is often overlooked/under recognized in my humble opinion.
yeah. Raf. obviously purposely left out. he was not the first but was the strongest cultivator of subculture culture. something abloh attempted but never intended to sustain because of his sweet tooth.bliss, can you sort of divide motivation to be either culture or form? maybe why I look more to kawakubo, margiela, Raf, Takahashi.
• Jacques Fath (because he was the playful side of french fashion that Dior and Balmain revamped) • Charles Frederick Worth (the first to be considered a fashion designer) • Jeanne Lanvin (needless to explain, and her original logo says it all) • Edith Head (her influence is huge still today... ask Pixar) • Mary Quant (c’mon...) • Ossie Clark (the King) • Sonia Rykiel (knitwear anyone?) • Valentino (the one and only) • Paco Rabanne • André Courrèges (see Mary Quant) • Helmut Lang • Bill Blass • Kansai Yamamoto • Stephen Sprouse • Rudi Gernreich
Edith head though didn't have a house. Her influence is based upon the Hollywood glamour. On a bigger picture she didn't really have much influence. Bob macky i think is more influential.
@@reymondlongtable3030 But for audience reach, it's hard to beat the Old Hollywood Glamour Machine? I've always thought of Bob Macky as the kid Edith never had... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
I cant believe that Vivienne Westwood was left of the list, her designs used Harris Tweed, from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, this in turn helped boost sales for Harris Tweed fundamentally saving the local industry of the islands. Using this fabric was also a nod and a middle finger to aristocratic ways of the UK.. Plus the fact she is a kick ass climate activist (one that doesn’t destroy art to make a hedland) … Jean Paul Gautier cheeky, provocative, chic, theatrical, and queer, plus i served Gautier a couple of drinks at the Beauchamp Hotel on Oxford Street Sydney way way way back in Mardi Gras 1999… i was like “OMG you’re Jean Paul Gautier!” …. He was like “shhhhhh”… he tipped well. In my mind i was all like Madonna Madonna Madonna … music has been a major roll in my fashion awakening, appreciation and appetite (even though I’m still a jeans and tshirt kinda guy) i guess the two go together here is an extreme example Morris Dancers.
Good on you for just flat out saying Chanel was a Nazi. Not a sympathizer, not swept up in the hype, but someone who made decisions when she could have chosen a different path.
To be fair to her biographers, we legitimately didn’t have any documented evidence of her participation until it was declassified in 2014 by the French government. being a Nazi sympathizer is already pretty bad, and I don’t agree with her biographers’ decisions to defend her in that way. But now that we have documented proof, there’s really no disputing it anymore 🤷
Chosen a different path how? Who knows what people knew or thought back then. Anyhow, I dont think any current day Democrat should talk much about that seeing how antisemitic the DFL is currently.
KENZO The only designer who credibly included nature and nature-inspired prints, as well Japanese flair for colour into modern fashion. Also Hanae Mori who became the first Japanese person to do couture in Paris.
So I'm going to be a total nerd and suggest a couple of lesser known designers, Madame Gres and Emilie Flöge. Madame Gres specialised in pleating and was inspired by Grecian sculpture (I studied ancient history at uni so that really resonates). She peaked in the 1930s but when you look at some of her dresses they appear shockingly modern. Emilie Flöge is a bit of strange one (who I heard about in a Karolina Żebrowska video); it's hard to explain but if you Google her you'll see why she deserves attention. She was a fashion designer (based in Vienna rather than Paris) but I don't think her really unique pieces caught on (it's not even clear that she tried to promote or sell them). I accept that neither of these two are GOATs but I wanted to share with the group as they're both worth a look.
Some other fashion titans - Sonia Rykiel, Pierre Balmain, Jeanne Lanvin, Charles Worth, Mariano Fortuny a.k.a OG pleats god, Mary Quant a.k.a give me everything mini, Diane Von Furstenburg, Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler, Ann Lowe, Edith Head a.k.a the queen of Hollywood. Could go on but that’s what I love about fashion - so many great designers and different eras.
Walter Van Beirendonck. Pioneer in electronica (first one to put their shows on CD or make video games related to his work), casted plus size models and used his art to voice his opinions on NSFW stuff, all while creating some of the most insane shows and garments!
Geoffrey Beene. - Originally studied to become a doctor. Learned muscular systems and how humans move, and at the very end of his studies, changed his career because he couldn't stand the blood. - Most famous design was the fully sequined sports jersey GOWN made from silk and sequins. The MET has one - Created simple dresses that were intellectually sexy in that they looked under the skin for inspiration, rather than taking the human body at face value - Used materials considered unconventional at the time - Instead of using a runway, had dancers perform in his clothing to show how well anyone could move in them - Simplistic maximalism through twee-like print creation - Died and left behind a foundation that continues to fund and support small designers to this day - He isn't talked about in online fashion spaced so hi. Please talk about him :) He's sick and his deep cuts are so clever.
Jeanne Lanvin should be on this list. Beautiful, touching and inspiring story of how fashion was born out of mother’s love. She would wrap her daughter Marguerite in dresses and gowns made of finest and most luxurious fabrics with silhouettes so beautiful and exquisite that society women started requesting “adult versions” of the garments.
Sorry to be late to the party, but I have just discovered your channel and am watching my way through all your videos. Notable absence - Black designers. I know that it was historically difficult to achieve recognition, but a mention of the lack and the reasons for it would make this a richer discussion. This is especially important as many young aspiring designers of color may be watching your channel for inspiration.
Galliano is the greatest of all time to me, simply for the sheer range of his vision. Whether it’s the rebellious designs of his own brand, the romantic haute couture that he designed for the house of Dior, or his extremely forward interpretation of the anti-fashion of Margiela, he hardly ever misses. He has such an understanding of silhouette, structure, the bias cut, romance and femininity. He’s a true chameleon who can extract glamour from the most mundane things, he’s the story-teller.
I don’t know if I would say he is the greatest of all time but he is in the running, and imo is most definitely the best out there now. He has an incredible talent and his curiosity and passion for his profession is contagious. I wish McQueen was still with us. It was hard to top him or Galliano in the 90s. I think he would be doing amazing things today, too.
13:08 The correct definition of a « bias cut » is pattern pieces that are placed on a 45 degree angle from the straight vertical grain line of a fabric, which are then cut and sewn. (So it is not the fabric that’s woven diagonally) In general, garments are usually cut on straight grain line to allow stability and ease during assembly. But bias cut pieces allow garments to achieve elasticity and suppleness to their volume, but they are difficult to work with (thus it requires skill, technique and experience). I hope this helps.
Norma Kamali, who is now all but forgotten, had a significant impact on American ready-to-wear. She is most recognized for her swimwear and parachute coat. Farrah Fawcett's red one-piece bathing suit from the classic 1976 poster and Whitney Houston's swimming suit from the back cover of her 1985 debut album were both created by Kamali.
The intro goes so hard for this video!! After reading the title I was like 🤨 and then you immediately hooked me in with your delivery of the first ten seconds. Fits so perfectly you are like IDGAF IM SENDING IT! The way you said “ever” I’m simping
Bliss we had a small tiff a whole ago about you gulping water. I want to I say I am sorry. I do value your opinion and coverage. I am an emerging designer and take fashion too serious at times. I think you are amazing and I am learning a lot from this video. Please accept my sincere apology and I will be subscribing to the top tear of your channel. We must I love supporting people in fashion Especially when they are teaching me. Keep going.
As a consumer, i find myself attracted to this type of art because it makes me feel like I'm in an alien world. Avant garde work sticks to me, and makes me think and feel things i never imagined. Love it, can't get enough!
100% Missed *THE Jil Sander* I like to think of the zeitgeist as a series constants that manifest differently. Jil Sander somehow managed to penetrate through the manifestations and design straight from the source. That is to say, her designs are truly timeless. They don’t feel dated and they never presumed to visually identify the “future of fashion.” They exist in a weird moving present that never falls behind or speeds ahead.
I think Gres, Gaultier and Westwood are broadly influential designers that deserve to be on the list. Two personal favorites of mine that I'd love to have seen are Geoffrey Beene and Bill Blass. Both of these designers had an interest in Old Hollywood glamour, menswear influences, geometric and mix matched patterns, and a uniquely unaffected American chic. Beene's clothes were lushly embellished, but nevertheless remained examplars of minimalism due to the purity of the cut and elimination of inner construction and seams. Either of these designers would be a great replacement for Oscar de la Renta, who to me did not innovate either in style or construction. Here are two obscure names to consider: Romeo Gigli and Zoran. And Patrick Kelly--yes, yes yes!
André Courrèges should have been on this list. Streamlined, futuristic clothing - colourful vinyl jackets - the mini skirt (along with Mary Quant) - A-line 60s dresses - moon boots Ha was an architect that worked at Balenciaga where he learned his cut for clothes.
I just found this channel today and you are why I've just made a patreon account. I'm both sad that I didn't know about you before today, and so happy that there's this much of your content for me to watch while I work on my designs. Thank you
Not necessarily in this order: 1. Thomas Burberry! He invented gabardine he changed the game for outerwear in the rain! Burberry trench coats! Do I need to say more? 2. Gaby Aghion (who created Chloe) changes fashion by making 'luxury pret-a-porter', which before fashion houses made Haute Couture. 3. Salvatore Ferragamo for creating the steel arch which lead to the stiletto heel! 4. Thierry Hermès I’m pretty sure is one of the oldest fashion houses, if not the oldest! I’m not sure if Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, who created the Hermès Birkin bag, are too new to be on this list. But everyone wants one of these bags and there are so many bags that take inspiration from it. 5. Achille Maramotti! Max Mara coats are classics! He created coats that last for years, don’t go out of style, and any generation could wear! He saw how mass production of designer clothes was the way to go. 6. Rene Lacoste who invented the polo shirt, made tennis wear more comfortable and is still a popular top for pretty and old money aesthetic. 7. Ralph Lauren made clastic pieces stylish and encompass the “old money” classic / British aristocracy aesthetic. Some say he “wrote the rules of menswear” and “changed the way we think about style whether you’re uptown, downtown, or anything in-between”. 8. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are iconic with their loud prints! They made the pantsuit feminine! 9. Louis Vuitton with his iconic monogram leather goods, and makes some of the most famous bags in the world! 10. Stella McCartney, I’m pretty sure she’s “too new”, but I think her faux fur coats and sustainability should land her on the list. Today a lot of people have an issue with animal products and she is one of the designers who focused on making designer pieces that work with todays modern concerns. And so many more designers… I might add to this list later but this was just off the top of my head…. 🤔
Thanks for this fantastic video ! I would personnally consider also as Old Masters : Courrèges, Hanae Mori (paved the way in Europe for Kenzo, Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto, and definitely had a huge influence over a more conservative vision of japanese fashion for decades), Madame Grès, Jeanne Lanvin, and maybe Sonia Rykiel for knitwear. And Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Kosuke Tsumura and Gianni Versace.
You missed Claude Montana who single handed ushered in the padded shoulders. Montana owned the nineties straight out. So many designers that you listed were and still are influenced by Montana. His A line whimsical cuts, color palette, use of metal, voluminous collars, stunning silhouettes and the Montana Woman.
Also fun fact, a canon originates from a Greek instrument of measure. It was adopted by both the church and musicians to essentially mean the central features by which we measure. Which, ecclesiastically, meant which books. Musically, which measures of the piece (the repeating notes that make the bulk of the piece). And in modern parlance - the people and work by which we measure the rest.
Thank you, Bliss for the lovely and informative video. Possibly you've left the following out because they don't follow the Hcouture showing programme? In any case, I missed; Vivienne Westwood, Dries van Noten, Veronique Branquinho, Rodarte!, Haider Ackermann, Walther van Beirendonk, An de Meulenmeester, Olivier Theyskens, Rick Owens. You will be familiar with all of them - and know why they should be in your list - which was very French, Italian, Spanish... but left out some important Belgians! And Dutch - Viktor and Rolf.
The one I never hear about is Patrick Kelly. African American designer from the south. The first American designer ever to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter. Using his craft to open dialogs about race, his upbringing, and inclusiveness, but keeping it fun and lighthearted. Though I guess I understand to a degree why he isn't talked about all too much since his career was cut short due his death.
Heya, I wish there were text in the video for the names mentioned. I'm uncertain on how some of them were spelled and the auto-generated subtitles only did so much. Seeing text of name helps familiarize and remember the person. Thank you for including a list in the description.
Gou Pei, Vivienne Westwood, Robert Wun, Roberto Cavalli, Helmut Lang, Jean Paul Gaultier, Salvatore Ferragamo and Iris Van Herpen (Ik she’s a bit young to be on the best designers of all time list but she’s already legendary) are some designers that I think deserve to be in the top 25
Azzedine Alaia , Rifat Ozbek but am so glad you had Thierry Mugler in the video but agree with previous comments on the list of who’s who many of whom have retrospectives shows Also many great designers were of the movie world like Edith Head and countless more but it would be a VERY long video to get them all
Errolson Hugh - created a whole new genre of clothing that many fast fashion try to copy till this day, arguably the best functional clothing designer in the world
15:59 I love Tom Ford as a film director. His movies are so beautifully constructed. I wrote an entire analysis of "Nocturnal Animals", I love this film
GRACE WALES BONNER: SHE is why we accept DEMNA. ANN LOWE: she pioneered African Americans in fashion breaking down barriers towards black people in luxury fashion DO NOT FORGET MARY QUANT!!! She revolutionized modern fashion with the mini-skirt and it’s importance shifted us towards a less conservative form of dress
I would have loved to see Christian Lacroix, and Roberto Capucci, an honorable mention of Giles Deacon & Andre Walker. Also, I would love to hear your take on Costume Designers (Edith Head, Adrian, Eiko Ishioka, Bob Mackie)
@@BlissFoster Well, his precision in cutting and working with diverse fabrics makes his clothes very couture-like and actually more accommodating to different body shapes. I would cross reference the fall 2007 collection where he pinched the sleeves to create a wide shoulder look but not as "hard" looking, the spring 2008 where he had very voluminous gowns billowing like jellyfishes and the fall 2011where he used gazar to the fabric's advantage. A lot of it is really he is just the Marge potato meme for me - I do just think it's neat. 😁
Ok I know this is an old video. I watched this like 3 days ago and then today I did repairs on a Pierre Cardin coat that I believe came from one of his early ready to wear collections at the store "le printemps" circa 1959 or 1960. It's a beautiful coat but very understated compared to the space age stuff that comes up when you search him. Does anyone know where I could find catalogs or photos of his early ready to wear stuff so I could definitively date this coat? It's in fantastic shape, just needed a button reattached and a wee bit of work reconnecting the sleeve lining to the body lining.
Wow so special! Runway shows weren’t as formalized back then. If it’s actually from the 60s or 70s, you’re gonna have a really difficult time trying to date it with information on the Internet. Consider also that it might be more recent than that and a liscensed product that wasn’t actually made by Cardin. Cardin was one of a few luxury companies that licensed their name out to other companies. So, for example, there is a ton of “Christian Dior“ out there that was not made by Christian Dior; it’s a liscensed product. Big qualifier! It sounds like you have lots of experience with this and you’re much more likely to spot a licensed or fake product than most people. I would trust your gut! 💫💫
Madame Gres- PLEATS, the high lady of pleats, made gowns that flowed like no other. Big influence when designing the new star wars costumes. Every couturier alive would love to have any former craftsperson that worked under her. Like Jean Paul Gaultier. Jean Paul Gaultier- The rebel, able to make any concept and stretch it and explore it to its full potential. Skirts on men on the runway, non-binaey fashion pioneer Claude Montana- retrofuturism, the largest shoulder pads of the 80s. Influenced Alexander McQueen. Bold colour. Claire Mccardell- The American goddess of modern womenswear. When ww2 hit. All the designers saw we're scarcity. She saw opportunity to create beautiful functional clothing for the modern woman. Zippers, hooks and military fabrics. iris van herpen-YOU KNOW WHY Jaques Fath- one of the first couturiers to court celebrities and an incredible contemporary of Christian and Channel Jeanne Lanvin- YES Anne Klein-Icon of modern womenswear Jeremy Scott: Camp and couture artist
Mainbocher- Couturier known for his beautiful designs for royalty Janae Mori-First Asian couturier and incredible designer Charles Frederick Worth- The father of Haute couture
Guo Pei-One of fashion's most interesting voices in couture. Jun Takahashi- One of the pillars of Japanese streetwear Dapper Dan-Father of modern streetwear
Roberto Cavalli French designer and inventor who created the "sand blasted jeans look" and exotic prints. His style greatly impacted the denim industry.
Doesn't really make sense not to include Charles Frederick Worth. You even mentioned his house! The guy literally invented haute couture.... Also, Michael Kors. Wearable, somewhat affordable garments that, at least in my opinion, have changed American fashion to being very, very elegant
MOSCHINO ! He brought the campy and humorous approach to fashion a good 15 years before Marc Jacobs came on the scene. He also is becoming more prominent on internet culture because of the ressurgence of the Nanny and her fashion sense (almost always Cheap and Chic).
Viv Westwood, added punk, post-punk and a sort of total rebellion to fashion. Rick Owens, also a rebel. Darklord of Fashion, made it super Scorpio. These, if you're a serious journalist, were left out on purpose. And maybe the designer behind A-Cold-Wall. Simmons, or something.
He's said before he doesn't really care about trends and he doesn't think others should either if they want to develop a sense of style. Not saying it's a bad video idea , just that Bliss probably isn't the one to do it
@@jenniewalker6651 I feel that. I feel like it would work better than he thinks though… like product expansions for brands he likes or the success of certain upcoming designers
@@jamesscalise4990 ahh , less of trends in the general sense and more of a prediction of a brand's vision / designs coming up? I do like that. It could be fun to see him say "I like this brand / designer and what the brand / designer represents, let's see if I can guess where they might pull inspiration from" As a separate comment on it , I do wonder how hard it might be to be able to guess thematic / inspiration choices for a runway show ahead of time , especially if those choices can sometimes be based around media references that don't tie specifically to this point in time , if that makes sense as a complexity
Emilio Pucci, Glenn Martens, WILLI SMITH, DAPPER DAN, anddddd i want to add Shayne Oliver into the mix for his huge contribution to bringing streetwear to the luxury fashion world and placing it on the map (i know he's still young). Oh also how can we all forget the fashion girlies' lord and saviour, Phoebe Philo
Jil Sander and Vivienne Westwood... Surely I don't need to explain why? But both had huge impacts in very different ways. Sander with beautiful minimal future looking cuts and Westwood's mix of heritage plundering and shock.
PHOEBE PHILO, GIANNI VERSACE, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, RAF SIMONS, HELMUT LANG, DONNA KARAN, IRIS VAN HERPEN, VIVIANNE WESTWOOD, ANN DEULEMEESTER, NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE & JUN TAKAHASHI.
seeing them mentioned a few times but Gaultier and Westwood. I'm definitely biased because of my punk roots, but VW's impact on punk fashion, and by extension, mainstream fashion can't be denied. and again, biased by personal experience and taste, but Gaultier's designs and runways have always stood out to me, he was one of the first designers I learned to recognize, that I could see without a name attached and say "ah, yes, that's JPG".
@@BlissFoster in addition to innovative and fresh design, Perry Ellis womenswear was attainable and exquisitely manufactured. I was a middle-class HS student /young adult wo family support between 1977- 1981 and I had two Perry Ellis womenswear pieces that I wore for decades. One was a cotton tuxedo shirt w rows of eyelet ruffles down the front ($45 on sale) and the other was a kidskin jacket w a nipped in waist, short peplum and oversized, thick sheepskin (longish shearling) lapel ($180 about $760 in 2022). The items are important here for a couple of reasons that I’ll touch on. First, if I could fit them today I could wear them still. There was a brief period in the late 80’s - early’90’s when they would look out of style (maybe). The tuxedo shirt was made of the best quality cotton I’ve ever owned and was the first blouse that I bought w S, M, L sizing. There were no bust darts and the ruffles were deeper than those on the ubiquitous ruffled mens tuxedo shirts of the time. The sense of proportion in his clothes I really can’t describe; it was literally perfection (although my 5’6” and, at the time, size 0 body was a pretty perfect hanger for clothes, so there’s that). The shirt was not just a straight T shape. It was cut curvy in a way that looked straight on a female body. It also had a shirt tail hem. The coat had pocket placement, on a short peplum, that was absolutely a natural place for hands to sit and was, miraculously, deep enough for a full hand. It was the focus on the legs w both pieces. That legs-for-days look that was a feature of a lot of Italian design. As a design icon PE gave birth to both the grunge and preppy movements and defined ‘70’s and early 80’s sportswear. The clothes crossed over into boho effortlessly. He brought tweeds, plaids, corduroy, denim and leather to womenswear while reimagining these same fabrics for menswear. He joyfully and unabashedly mixed patterns and textures and realized sportswear as the American default clothing in an expressively new way. He also gave glam rockers and disco queens a direction to evolve their styles. I think he opened his house w an eye to the business innovations that were possible in design. I guess that is what fascinates me about current, up and coming designers. When done right it’s a balance of high-level artistry and business acumen. His contemporaries, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, accomplished a lot of the same things but PE as a designer wasn’t derivative. He cut plaid on the bias, played w proportion rather than just putting men’s slacks on tiny women he made womenswear tailored pants with wide or skinny legs, flat fronts, wool fabric, high waists and unexpected patterns that were iterative of the cut. Plus Marc Jacob’s took over and there’s not much better for the era than that.
Christian Lacroix was me mentioned by others, but they didn't explain that he made haute couture inspired by the aesthetic of the Provence, where he comes from, a culture that Jacquemus is currently promoting in his design. LACROIX is probably one of the more courageous users of colour in couture, where fashion designers are often less exhuberant.
DAME VIVIENNE WEDTWOOD👏👏👏👏a true pioneer in fashion history, her work was truly one of a kind and changed how people dressed in the uk (especially London) she was a leader of the 70s punk movement in London, an activist and a genius and she is still relevant today‼️‼️ Loved the vid btw🙃🙃
Designers to consider adding to the list: Madame Gres < Fluting and Grecian Goddess dresses Mariano Fortuny > Pleating Mary McFadden > Pleating and unique patterns Valentino > Red
*Vivienne Westwood*
-I'm absolutely fascinated by the way she uses some fabrics back in her old 90s show (Not saying that her designs nowadays are bad but it's just that the 90s were way more superior and beautiful when it came to designing clothes. She literally broke barriers and rules and did whatever the hell she wanted too! :D
*Guo Pei*
-In my opinion she is really underrated, by really, I mean REALLY underrated, her works are the definition of a masterpiece and every single time I see a piece of her artwork I literally get speechless, I would love if would make a video on her!!!!
*Gianni Versace*
-The legend himself, He knows how to turn a simple dress into an Artwork, I mean look at his collection! The dresses might be made out of simple looking fabric (ik they aren't simple or low quality, but yk what I mean) into a Elegant, chic and Full of colorful touch in it, Its Gianni's secret magic, I believe that makes his dress sexy but at the same time modest and elegant.
*Zuhair Murad*
-He is also another underrated designer; His works are really feminine, and his works are mostly done in an elegant, beautiful way, The feminines in his work just feels really unique.
*Blumarine*
-Don't know much about the brand or old other works, But their collection is really playful, pop and the recent collections give me huge y2k vibe!!
*Iris Van Herpen*
-Do I have to tell?????
EDIT 1: I forgot to add *William Travilla* He Designed Marlyin Monroe's most iconic outfit's and truly understood her!
EDIT 2: *Park sohee* Aka Miss Sohee is a young couturier how I feel like knows how to play with fabric and shapes of the beautiful, splendid clothes she makes
GUO PEI is soo underrated her work is amazing. And without Vivienne is there Undercover ? N(N) ? Many more brands and styles she brought to the table ?
ALL THESE DESIGNERS ARE SO GOOD. The fact I didn’t even think of some is shameful 😩, Versace, Guo Pei, IRIS VAN HERPEN??? AHHHH, tho I think he might not have put iris in cause they’ve only been around for a short amount of time? Correct me if I’m wrong lol
@@cherhorowitz6070 I do agree, Bliss Covered only the old master's and left the rest to us :)
Yes omg totally the comment inwas looking for
idk if you could call malcolm mclaren a great designer but he and vivienne bounced a lot of ideas off each other in the early days from what I read
Jean Paul Gaultier, the OG enfant terrible.
One of my favourite fashion designers.
He got me hooked and to study fashion designing.
Please do an in depth analysis /review on Gaultier.
He is spectacular, no one like him
Agree!!! Please more jean Paul Gaultier on UA-cam not enough!!
Helmut Lang should be on this list. Not only for the minimalism and all the sick designs but he was the first to stream a collection on the internet and one of the first to do co-ed shows.
Definitely! a legend that gave it his all and walked away from it all…but I thought Walter V was the first to show his collection online
@@qhoffa9568 Helmut was the first to do an internet-based fashion show. that was in 1998 but he's a great for so many other reasons
@@mortuumamori5279 beksinski art pfp!
Strongly agree. And don't forget his photography. I was lucky enough to see a version of his table book when it first came out. Utterly stunning.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
100% agree. A lot of his designs from the 90s are still very relevant and chic today.
*Iris Van Herpen*
She's a current designer that I'd point to if I needed to demonstrate the use of nature to inspire design, from creating eco-friendly materials (including stuff like steel), to engineering moving (and wearable) garments and 3-D printing, and creating beautiful silhouettes.
It's like nature meets technology and design.
Absolutely, I would have included Iris, but she’s a little young for this list. She’s for sure making the history books tho 💫💫
@@BlissFoster so because the ink isn’t dry in her case
lol iris has been doing the same shit for the last decade, she doesn't deserve to be anywhere near this list.
I was going to mention her too!
I was about to mention her until I saw ur comment
(Intentional) omissions I noticed are Gaultier, Valentino, Westwood, Versace, Raf, Ann Demeulemeester, Philo, and Dries. I guess big commercial American designers like Calvin Klein, DVF, Kors, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger too, but they're a bit different lol.
I would definitely love a dive into Maria and her success with sales in contrast to her critical popularity as well as talking about other brands and their relationship to profitability/business relative to quality creative output. I remember a fashion person saying that Akris makes TONS of money, which seemed so random but I guess they corner the rich lady market. Would love to learn more about that.
Gaultier and Valentino especially
Me too!
I think he didn’t mention some because he was more pointing out they took out the high end out of fashion the more low maintenance fashion
- Jun Takahashi/Raf Simons/Vivienne Westwood should be on this list as masters of the crossover between fashion and youth culture
- Helmut Lang should be on this list as the most prominent proponent of minimalism in designer fashion
- Rick Owens should be on this list BECAUSE
- Nigo should be on this list as the arguable creator of the streetwear business model
- Hedi Slimane should be on this list because he imposed a very influential vision onto menswear in the early aughts (as much as I dislike anything he did past his tenure at Dior Homme)
- Gianni Versace and Valentino Garavani should be on this list as proponents of an exquisitely Italian and Mediterranean vision of chic
- Also, really no one from the Antwerp Six?
this! he needs to do a round two for sure, these you listed as a kid growing up in the 90s and got into mens fashion as I grew up, these are the staples of that.
Nigo is so underrated, he influenced streetwear and youth culture like no other
Absolutely!!! Big thumbs up for all these.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD!!! Queen of deconstruction that we now see EVERYWHERE and brought grunge and punk into high fashion!
!!
yes!!
FRRR
Absolument ! ❤
By definition punk and grunge cannot be part of high fashion, just the aesthetics are imitated.
Westwood, Gaultier & Versace (both Gianni & Donatella) felt like the most obvious omissions from their cultural significance that extends beyond the clothes. You left out quite a few significant Americans: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein & Donna Karan to name a few. Some less obvious choices but worth noting are Viktor & Rolf, RAF(!)…also the work of Miguel Adrover is often overlooked/under recognized in my humble opinion.
yeah. Raf. obviously purposely left out. he was not the first but was the strongest cultivator of subculture culture. something abloh attempted but never intended to sustain because of his sweet tooth.bliss, can you sort of divide motivation to be either culture or form? maybe why I look more to kawakubo, margiela, Raf, Takahashi.
• Jacques Fath (because he was the playful side of french fashion that Dior and Balmain revamped)
• Charles Frederick Worth (the first to be considered a fashion designer)
• Jeanne Lanvin (needless to explain, and her original logo says it all)
• Edith Head (her influence is huge still today... ask Pixar)
• Mary Quant (c’mon...)
• Ossie Clark (the King)
• Sonia Rykiel (knitwear anyone?)
• Valentino (the one and only)
• Paco Rabanne
• André Courrèges (see Mary Quant)
• Helmut Lang
• Bill Blass
• Kansai Yamamoto
• Stephen Sprouse
• Rudi Gernreich
Edith head though didn't have a house. Her influence is based upon the Hollywood glamour. On a bigger picture she didn't really have much influence. Bob macky i think is more influential.
@@reymondlongtable3030 Well, the focus is on designers, not “houses”. Anyway, what Head did for Joan Crawford is still iconic 😉
@@reymondlongtable3030 But for audience reach, it's hard to beat the Old Hollywood Glamour Machine? I've always thought of Bob Macky as the kid Edith never had...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
I cant believe that Vivienne Westwood was left of the list, her designs used Harris Tweed, from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, this in turn helped boost sales for Harris Tweed fundamentally saving the local industry of the islands. Using this fabric was also a nod and a middle finger to aristocratic ways of the UK.. Plus the fact she is a kick ass climate activist (one that doesn’t destroy art to make a hedland) … Jean Paul Gautier cheeky, provocative, chic, theatrical, and queer, plus i served Gautier a couple of drinks at the Beauchamp Hotel on Oxford Street Sydney way way way back in Mardi Gras 1999… i was like “OMG you’re Jean Paul Gautier!” …. He was like “shhhhhh”… he tipped well. In my mind i was all like Madonna Madonna Madonna … music has been a major roll in my fashion awakening, appreciation and appetite (even though I’m still a jeans and tshirt kinda guy) i guess the two go together here is an extreme example Morris Dancers.
Good on you for just flat out saying Chanel was a Nazi. Not a sympathizer, not swept up in the hype, but someone who made decisions when she could have chosen a different path.
To be fair to her biographers, we legitimately didn’t have any documented evidence of her participation until it was declassified in 2014 by the French government. being a Nazi sympathizer is already pretty bad, and I don’t agree with her biographers’ decisions to defend her in that way. But now that we have documented proof, there’s really no disputing it anymore 🤷
Chosen a different path how? Who knows what people knew or thought back then. Anyhow, I dont think any current day Democrat should talk much about that seeing how antisemitic the DFL is currently.
KENZO
The only designer who credibly included nature and nature-inspired prints, as well Japanese flair for colour into modern fashion. Also Hanae Mori who became the first Japanese person to do couture in Paris.
So I'm going to be a total nerd and suggest a couple of lesser known designers, Madame Gres and Emilie Flöge. Madame Gres specialised in pleating and was inspired by Grecian sculpture (I studied ancient history at uni so that really resonates). She peaked in the 1930s but when you look at some of her dresses they appear shockingly modern. Emilie Flöge is a bit of strange one (who I heard about in a Karolina Żebrowska video); it's hard to explain but if you Google her you'll see why she deserves attention. She was a fashion designer (based in Vienna rather than Paris) but I don't think her really unique pieces caught on (it's not even clear that she tried to promote or sell them). I accept that neither of these two are GOATs but I wanted to share with the group as they're both worth a look.
Madame Grès, for sure! Good call.
YASS! I was thinking her too ❤❤
Some other fashion titans - Sonia Rykiel, Pierre Balmain, Jeanne Lanvin, Charles Worth, Mariano Fortuny a.k.a OG pleats god, Mary Quant a.k.a give me everything mini, Diane Von Furstenburg, Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler, Ann Lowe, Edith Head a.k.a the queen of Hollywood. Could go on but that’s what I love about fashion - so many great designers and different eras.
Walter Van Beirendonck. Pioneer in electronica (first one to put their shows on CD or make video games related to his work), casted plus size models and used his art to voice his opinions on NSFW stuff, all while creating some of the most insane shows and garments!
Danke!
Thank YOU!!
Geoffrey Beene.
- Originally studied to become a doctor. Learned muscular systems and how humans move, and at the very end of his studies, changed his career because he couldn't stand the blood.
- Most famous design was the fully sequined sports jersey GOWN made from silk and sequins. The MET has one
- Created simple dresses that were intellectually sexy in that they looked under the skin for inspiration, rather than taking the human body at face value
- Used materials considered unconventional at the time
- Instead of using a runway, had dancers perform in his clothing to show how well anyone could move in them
- Simplistic maximalism through twee-like print creation
- Died and left behind a foundation that continues to fund and support small designers to this day
- He isn't talked about in online fashion spaced so hi. Please talk about him :) He's sick and his deep cuts are so clever.
Christian Lacroix, JP Gaultier and Madame Gres. Can’t do the Greats without them. 🙏❤
Jeanne Lanvin should be on this list. Beautiful, touching and inspiring story of how fashion was born out of mother’s love. She would wrap her daughter Marguerite in dresses and gowns made of finest and most luxurious fabrics with silhouettes so beautiful and exquisite that society women started requesting “adult versions” of the garments.
Sorry to be late to the party, but I have just discovered your channel and am watching my way through all your videos. Notable absence - Black designers. I know that it was historically difficult to achieve recognition, but a mention of the lack and the reasons for it would make this a richer discussion. This is especially important as many young aspiring designers of color may be watching your channel for inspiration.
THIS
Galliano is the greatest of all time to me, simply for the sheer range of his vision. Whether it’s the rebellious designs of his own brand, the romantic haute couture that he designed for the house of Dior, or his extremely forward interpretation of the anti-fashion of Margiela, he hardly ever misses. He has such an understanding of silhouette, structure, the bias cut, romance and femininity. He’s a true chameleon who can extract glamour from the most mundane things, he’s the story-teller.
I don’t know if I would say he is the greatest of all time but he is in the running, and imo is most definitely the best out there now.
He has an incredible talent and his curiosity and passion for his profession is contagious.
I wish McQueen was still with us.
It was hard to top him or Galliano in the 90s. I think he would be doing amazing things today, too.
13:08 The correct definition of a « bias cut » is pattern pieces that are placed on a 45 degree angle from the straight vertical grain line of a fabric, which are then cut and sewn. (So it is not the fabric that’s woven diagonally)
In general, garments are usually cut on straight grain line to allow stability and ease during assembly. But bias cut pieces allow garments to achieve elasticity and suppleness to their volume, but they are difficult to work with (thus it requires skill, technique and experience).
I hope this helps.
Thank you! Was very confused when he said 'particularly jersey' as well which is knit
I absolutely love Thom Browne work. From the sketching to the sewing process, it’s seriously amazing to see him do. Amazing storyteller too
Nicolas Ghesquière! An absolute genius who shaped today’s fashion
Thanks!
You’re the best, Deb 😌
Norma Kamali, who is now all but forgotten, had a significant impact on American ready-to-wear. She is most recognized for her swimwear and parachute coat. Farrah Fawcett's red one-piece bathing suit from the classic 1976 poster and Whitney Houston's swimming suit from the back cover of her 1985 debut album were both created by Kamali.
The intro goes so hard for this video!! After reading the title I was like 🤨 and then you immediately hooked me in with your delivery of the first ten seconds. Fits so perfectly you are like IDGAF IM SENDING IT! The way you said “ever” I’m simping
There is so much richness in this video. You well earned a follower.
Thank you sir.
Sonia Rykiel!!!! sweater dresses and another master of black
Bliss we had a small tiff a whole ago about you gulping water. I want to I say I am sorry. I do value your opinion and coverage. I am an emerging designer and take fashion too serious at times. I think you are amazing and I am learning a lot from this video. Please accept my sincere apology and I will be subscribing to the top tear of your channel. We must I love supporting people in fashion Especially when they are teaching me. Keep going.
As a consumer, i find myself attracted to this type of art because it makes me feel like I'm in an alien world. Avant garde work sticks to me, and makes me think and feel things i never imagined. Love it, can't get enough!
Not only educational but just entertaining to watch ….thank you❤
been wanting a male fashion guru to binge. so happy i found this channel!!
Alexandre Herchcovitch should definitely be on the list! One of the most legendary Brazilian designers! He is a legend
I’m glad you appreciate Elsa Schiaparelli as much as I do haha
100% Missed *THE Jil Sander*
I like to think of the zeitgeist as a series constants that manifest differently. Jil Sander somehow managed to penetrate through the manifestations and design straight from the source. That is to say, her designs are truly timeless. They don’t feel dated and they never presumed to visually identify the “future of fashion.” They exist in a weird moving present that never falls behind or speeds ahead.
I think Gres, Gaultier and Westwood are broadly influential designers that deserve to be on the list. Two personal favorites of mine that I'd love to have seen are Geoffrey Beene and Bill Blass. Both of these designers had an interest in Old Hollywood glamour, menswear influences, geometric and mix matched patterns, and a uniquely unaffected American chic. Beene's clothes were lushly embellished, but nevertheless remained examplars of minimalism due to the purity of the cut and elimination of inner construction and seams. Either of these designers would be a great replacement for Oscar de la Renta, who to me did not innovate either in style or construction. Here are two obscure names to consider: Romeo Gigli and Zoran. And Patrick Kelly--yes, yes yes!
beene, definitely! who trained alber
i love this fashion, i watch these videos while doing homework and its great
André Courrèges should have been on this list.
Streamlined, futuristic clothing
- colourful vinyl jackets
- the mini skirt (along with Mary Quant)
- A-line 60s dresses
- moon boots
Ha was an architect that worked at Balenciaga where he learned his cut for clothes.
You're the best! Keeping it simple and exciting to watch !
I swear, as soon as I have a stable income (after being a student) I will join your Patreon ! Love your videos !!
also: Iris Van Herpen
I'm not that much into fashion, but I'm glad to see one of my favorite designers on this list.
I just found this channel today and you are why I've just made a patreon account. I'm both sad that I didn't know about you before today, and so happy that there's this much of your content for me to watch while I work on my designs. Thank you
Welcome in! Thanks so much for the support!! 🙏🙏
Love ur hairstyle..❤️❤️
Westwood, Gaultier, Gianni Versace, Valentino , iris van herpen , Dries van noten , Anne demeulemeester
So excited to watch this video!!
Not necessarily in this order:
1. Thomas Burberry! He invented gabardine he changed the game for outerwear in the rain! Burberry trench coats! Do I need to say more?
2. Gaby Aghion (who created Chloe) changes fashion by making 'luxury pret-a-porter', which before fashion houses made Haute Couture.
3. Salvatore Ferragamo for creating the steel arch which lead to the stiletto heel!
4. Thierry Hermès I’m pretty sure is one of the oldest fashion houses, if not the oldest! I’m not sure if Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, who created the Hermès Birkin bag, are too new to be on this list. But everyone wants one of these bags and there are so many bags that take inspiration from it.
5. Achille Maramotti! Max Mara coats are classics! He created coats that last for years, don’t go out of style, and any generation could wear! He saw how mass production of designer clothes was the way to go.
6. Rene Lacoste who invented the polo shirt, made tennis wear more comfortable and is still a popular top for pretty and old money aesthetic.
7. Ralph Lauren made clastic pieces stylish and encompass the “old money” classic / British aristocracy aesthetic. Some say he “wrote the rules of menswear” and “changed the way we think about style whether you’re uptown, downtown, or anything in-between”.
8. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are iconic with their loud prints! They made the pantsuit feminine!
9. Louis Vuitton with his iconic monogram leather goods, and makes some of the most famous bags in the world!
10. Stella McCartney, I’m pretty sure she’s “too new”, but I think her faux fur coats and sustainability should land her on the list. Today a lot of people have an issue with animal products and she is one of the designers who focused on making designer pieces that work with todays modern concerns.
And so many more designers… I might add to this list later but this was just off the top of my head…. 🤔
I hope there is a part two that covers more fashion houses! One I haven’t seen be mentioned yet is Lanvin 🥰
Thanks for this fantastic video !
I would personnally consider also as Old Masters : Courrèges, Hanae Mori (paved the way in Europe for Kenzo, Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto, and definitely had a huge influence over a more conservative vision of japanese fashion for decades), Madame Grès, Jeanne Lanvin, and maybe Sonia Rykiel for knitwear.
And Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Kosuke Tsumura and Gianni Versace.
Awesome, thank you! Could you elaborate on everyone else like you did for Mori? What makes them worthy of the list? Get specific 💫💫
You missed Claude Montana who single handed ushered in the padded shoulders. Montana owned the nineties straight out. So many designers that you listed were and still are influenced by Montana. His A line whimsical cuts, color palette, use of metal, voluminous collars, stunning silhouettes and the Montana Woman.
love everything ive seen by Montana
Honestly, you got me cheering in the first minute:12. Like actively like YES YES. MORE. Impressive from a content AND video dynamics perspective
Also fun fact, a canon originates from a Greek instrument of measure. It was adopted by both the church and musicians to essentially mean the central features by which we measure. Which, ecclesiastically, meant which books. Musically, which measures of the piece (the repeating notes that make the bulk of the piece). And in modern parlance - the people and work by which we measure the rest.
Immediately Saved this to my favorites. I will be watching again.
Ozwald Boateng - Ghanaian British - First black tailor to be on Savile Row - First black designer to be creative director at Givenchy
You look so pretty with your hair like that! I guess me and my silly little Celine-philo era heart would include Phoebe Philo
Also, my silly little minimalist heart would like to see Helmut lang in there too
Thank you, Bliss for the lovely and informative video. Possibly you've left the following out because they don't follow the Hcouture showing programme? In any case, I missed; Vivienne Westwood, Dries van Noten, Veronique Branquinho, Rodarte!, Haider Ackermann, Walther van Beirendonk, An de Meulenmeester, Olivier Theyskens, Rick Owens. You will be familiar with all of them - and know why they should be in your list - which was very French, Italian, Spanish... but left out some important Belgians! And Dutch - Viktor and Rolf.
This is one of the best episodes ever! I am in total awe and completely geeked. 😩❤️
As someone who is currently looking into fashion design, i absolutely love Christian Dior’s work
The one I never hear about is Patrick Kelly. African American designer from the south. The first American designer ever to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter. Using his craft to open dialogs about race, his upbringing, and inclusiveness, but keeping it fun and lighthearted. Though I guess I understand to a degree why he isn't talked about all too much since his career was cut short due his death.
I was waiting for someone to bring in Kelly 💫💫
Dude I love your channel. I'm going to binge watch the crap of all this. You're amazing!
That means a ton to me, thanks homie 💫💫
Heya, I wish there were text in the video for the names mentioned. I'm uncertain on how some of them were spelled and the auto-generated subtitles only did so much. Seeing text of name helps familiarize and remember the person. Thank you for including a list in the description.
Gou Pei, Vivienne Westwood, Robert Wun, Roberto Cavalli, Helmut Lang, Jean Paul Gaultier, Salvatore Ferragamo and Iris Van Herpen (Ik she’s a bit young to be on the best designers of all time list but she’s already legendary) are some designers that I think deserve to be in the top 25
Wonderful compilation !
Azzedine Alaia , Rifat Ozbek but am so glad you had Thierry Mugler in the video but agree with previous comments on the list of who’s who many of whom have retrospectives shows
Also many great designers were of the movie world like Edith Head and countless more but it would be a VERY long video to get them all
I think its impossible not to talk about Issey’s use of pleating without mentioning the contributions of Fortuny!
Madame Gres!! Her draping is unmatched. For my final collection, I researched her work so extensively and her pleats still amazes me.
Awesome addition to the list 🦾
Errolson Hugh - created a whole new genre of clothing that many fast fashion try to copy till this day, arguably the best functional clothing designer in the world
Noooup
15:59 I love Tom Ford as a film director. His movies are so beautifully constructed. I wrote an entire analysis of "Nocturnal Animals", I love this film
GRACE WALES BONNER: SHE is why we accept DEMNA.
ANN LOWE: she pioneered African Americans in fashion breaking down barriers towards black people in luxury fashion
DO NOT FORGET MARY QUANT!!! She revolutionized modern fashion with the mini-skirt and it’s importance shifted us towards a less conservative form of dress
Mary Quant indeed! ❤
I would have loved to see Christian Lacroix, and Roberto Capucci, an honorable mention of Giles Deacon & Andre Walker. Also, I would love to hear your take on Costume Designers (Edith Head, Adrian, Eiko Ishioka, Bob Mackie)
U forgot Helmut Lang, RAF Simmons, Rick Owens for the new wave of designers. Definitely the foundation for fashion in the 00’s & ‘10s!
I personally love what Alber Elbaz did. He made technically brilliant clothes which are also so much fun.
Awesome! Thank you! Could you elaborate? What makes his designs technically brilliant? Be specific 🦾
@@BlissFoster Well, his precision in cutting and working with diverse fabrics makes his clothes very couture-like and actually more accommodating to different body shapes. I would cross reference the fall 2007 collection where he pinched the sleeves to create a wide shoulder look but not as "hard" looking, the spring 2008 where he had very voluminous gowns billowing like jellyfishes and the fall 2011where he used gazar to the fabric's advantage. A lot of it is really he is just the Marge potato meme for me - I do just think it's neat. 😁
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻anyway compliments for your huge understanding of fashion essence!
Madam Grés- the master of drape. Her designs are endlessly imitated to this day.
Ok I know this is an old video. I watched this like 3 days ago and then today I did repairs on a Pierre Cardin coat that I believe came from one of his early ready to wear collections at the store "le printemps" circa 1959 or 1960. It's a beautiful coat but very understated compared to the space age stuff that comes up when you search him. Does anyone know where I could find catalogs or photos of his early ready to wear stuff so I could definitively date this coat? It's in fantastic shape, just needed a button reattached and a wee bit of work reconnecting the sleeve lining to the body lining.
Wow so special!
Runway shows weren’t as formalized back then. If it’s actually from the 60s or 70s, you’re gonna have a really difficult time trying to date it with information on the Internet. Consider also that it might be more recent than that and a liscensed product that wasn’t actually made by Cardin.
Cardin was one of a few luxury companies that licensed their name out to other companies. So, for example, there is a ton of “Christian Dior“ out there that was not made by Christian Dior; it’s a liscensed product.
Big qualifier! It sounds like you have lots of experience with this and you’re much more likely to spot a licensed or fake product than most people. I would trust your gut! 💫💫
Thanks for mentioning the cannon fr not enough creators say this
Clair McCardell, MarianoFortuny, Adrian, The Fendi's
Madame Gres- PLEATS, the high lady of pleats, made gowns that flowed like no other. Big influence when designing the new star wars costumes. Every couturier alive would love to have any former craftsperson that worked under her. Like Jean Paul Gaultier.
Jean Paul Gaultier- The rebel, able to make any concept and stretch it and explore it to its full potential. Skirts on men on the runway, non-binaey fashion pioneer
Claude Montana- retrofuturism, the largest shoulder pads of the 80s. Influenced Alexander McQueen. Bold colour.
Claire Mccardell- The American goddess of modern womenswear. When ww2 hit. All the designers saw we're scarcity. She saw opportunity to create beautiful functional clothing for the modern woman. Zippers, hooks and military fabrics.
iris van herpen-YOU KNOW WHY
Jaques Fath- one of the first couturiers to court celebrities and an incredible contemporary of Christian and Channel
Jeanne Lanvin- YES
Anne Klein-Icon of modern womenswear
Jeremy Scott: Camp and couture artist
Mainbocher- Couturier known for his beautiful designs for royalty
Janae Mori-First Asian couturier and incredible designer
Charles Frederick Worth- The father of Haute couture
Guo Pei-One of fashion's most interesting voices in couture.
Jun Takahashi- One of the pillars of Japanese streetwear
Dapper Dan-Father of modern streetwear
Mary Quant-you know why
Vivienne Westwood-powerhouse of British fashion and pink deity
can i just say i love love love this list
I would just like to say your hair looks amazing in this video
Roberto Cavalli
French designer and inventor who created the "sand blasted jeans look" and exotic prints. His style greatly impacted the denim industry.
Doesn't really make sense not to include Charles Frederick Worth. You even mentioned his house!
The guy literally invented haute couture....
Also, Michael Kors. Wearable, somewhat affordable garments that, at least in my opinion, have changed American fashion to being very, very elegant
MOSCHINO !
He brought the campy and humorous approach to fashion a good 15 years before Marc Jacobs came on the scene. He also is becoming more prominent on internet culture because of the ressurgence of the Nanny and her fashion sense (almost always Cheap and Chic).
Viv Westwood, added punk, post-punk and a sort of total rebellion to fashion. Rick Owens, also a rebel. Darklord of Fashion, made it super Scorpio. These, if you're a serious journalist, were left out on purpose. And maybe the designer behind A-Cold-Wall. Simmons, or something.
Valentino, Jeanne Lanvin, Edith Head, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein
Really enjoy your videos. I'm so close to becoming a patreon subscriber.
Awesome! Thanks for the added names! Could you elaborate for each? Why do they deserve to be on the list? 💫💫
Looking good bliss😏
Increddible work ty
Would you ever do a fun video where you try and predict the trends and changes of the coming year and then do a follow up for how accurate you were?
yesss
He's said before he doesn't really care about trends and he doesn't think others should either if they want to develop a sense of style. Not saying it's a bad video idea , just that Bliss probably isn't the one to do it
@@jenniewalker6651 I feel that. I feel like it would work better than he thinks though… like product expansions for brands he likes or the success of certain upcoming designers
@@jamesscalise4990 ahh , less of trends in the general sense and more of a prediction of a brand's vision / designs coming up? I do like that. It could be fun to see him say "I like this brand / designer and what the brand / designer represents, let's see if I can guess where they might pull inspiration from"
As a separate comment on it , I do wonder how hard it might be to be able to guess thematic / inspiration choices for a runway show ahead of time , especially if those choices can sometimes be based around media references that don't tie specifically to this point in time , if that makes sense as a complexity
Great video! I would LOVE to see one about best pieces from each brand available today.
this video is ridiculously entertaining
Emilio Pucci, Glenn Martens, WILLI SMITH, DAPPER DAN, anddddd i want to add Shayne Oliver into the mix for his huge contribution to bringing streetwear to the luxury fashion world and placing it on the map (i know he's still young). Oh also how can we all forget the fashion girlies' lord and saviour, Phoebe Philo
Jil Sander and Vivienne Westwood... Surely I don't need to explain why? But both had huge impacts in very different ways. Sander with beautiful minimal future looking cuts and Westwood's mix of heritage plundering and shock.
PHOEBE PHILO, GIANNI VERSACE, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, RAF SIMONS, HELMUT LANG, DONNA KARAN, IRIS VAN HERPEN, VIVIANNE WESTWOOD, ANN DEULEMEESTER, NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE & JUN TAKAHASHI.
seeing them mentioned a few times but Gaultier and Westwood. I'm definitely biased because of my punk roots, but VW's impact on punk fashion, and by extension, mainstream fashion can't be denied. and again, biased by personal experience and taste, but Gaultier's designs and runways have always stood out to me, he was one of the first designers I learned to recognize, that I could see without a name attached and say "ah, yes, that's JPG".
Please do an episode following designer perfumes I know it’s not directly fashion but they are fashion tangential and scent is so often overlooked
I think Raf Simons, Helmut Lang and Jean Paul Gaultier should definitely be on that list
Perry Ellis gave me my love for natural fibers and layering.
Awesome! Thank you! Could you elaborate? What else makes them worthy of the list? Be specific 🦾
@@BlissFoster in addition to innovative and fresh design, Perry Ellis womenswear was attainable and exquisitely manufactured. I was a middle-class HS student /young adult wo family support between 1977- 1981 and I had two Perry Ellis womenswear pieces that I wore for decades. One was a cotton tuxedo shirt w rows of eyelet ruffles down the front ($45 on sale) and the other was a kidskin jacket w a nipped in waist, short peplum and oversized, thick sheepskin (longish shearling) lapel ($180 about $760 in 2022). The items are important here for a couple of reasons that I’ll touch on. First, if I could fit them today I could wear them still. There was a brief period in the late 80’s - early’90’s when they would look out of style (maybe). The tuxedo shirt was made of the best quality cotton I’ve ever owned and was the first blouse that I bought w S, M, L sizing. There were no bust darts and the ruffles were deeper than those on the ubiquitous ruffled mens tuxedo shirts of the time. The sense of proportion in his clothes I really can’t describe; it was literally perfection (although my 5’6” and, at the time, size 0 body was a pretty perfect hanger for clothes, so there’s that). The shirt was not just a straight T shape. It was cut curvy in a way that looked straight on a female body. It also had a shirt tail hem. The coat had pocket placement, on a short peplum, that was absolutely a natural place for hands to sit and was, miraculously, deep enough for a full hand. It was the focus on the legs w both pieces. That legs-for-days look that was a feature of a lot of Italian design.
As a design icon PE gave birth to both the grunge and preppy movements and defined ‘70’s and early 80’s sportswear. The clothes crossed over into boho effortlessly. He brought tweeds, plaids, corduroy, denim and leather to womenswear while reimagining these same fabrics for menswear. He joyfully and unabashedly mixed patterns and textures and realized sportswear as the American default clothing in an expressively new way. He also gave glam rockers and disco queens a direction to evolve their styles. I think he opened his house w an eye to the business innovations that were possible in design. I guess that is what fascinates me about current, up and coming designers. When done right it’s a balance of high-level artistry and business acumen.
His contemporaries, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, accomplished a lot of the same things but PE as a designer wasn’t derivative. He cut plaid on the bias, played w proportion rather than just putting men’s slacks on tiny women he made womenswear tailored pants with wide or skinny legs, flat fronts, wool fabric, high waists and unexpected patterns that were iterative of the cut. Plus Marc Jacob’s took over and there’s not much better for the era than that.
I cannot find pre1980 examples of Perry Ellis Womens ready to wear. I know I had the coat in 1979 IDK maybe I’m tripping?
Christian Lacroix was me mentioned by others, but they didn't explain that he made haute couture inspired by the aesthetic of the Provence, where he comes from, a culture that Jacquemus is currently promoting in his design. LACROIX is probably one of the more courageous users of colour in couture, where fashion designers are often less exhuberant.
DAME VIVIENNE WEDTWOOD👏👏👏👏a true pioneer in fashion history, her work was truly one of a kind and changed how people dressed in the uk (especially London) she was a leader of the 70s punk movement in London, an activist and a genius and she is still relevant today‼️‼️
Loved the vid btw🙃🙃
Great work
Bliss wore his hair in a ponytail and I am here to itttttt
love your analysis :D
Designers to consider adding to the list:
Madame Gres < Fluting and Grecian Goddess dresses
Mariano Fortuny > Pleating
Mary McFadden > Pleating and unique patterns
Valentino > Red