I grew up poor af and I always seen posh ladies buying Vogue and wanted one for myself. When I finally had the money to spare for it, I got it and it was (I kid you not) around 90% ads for luxury brands. And I don't really hate ads, but if they were a bit more effort, let's say pictures from the runway and explanations, maybe I would not have minded them so much, but they were the exact same ads I seen on tv and in malls. And to top the mess, they had quite a bunch of ads for Chanel and guess what, the interview for that edition was with someone from Chanel. Later I went back on the internet and I was reading an interview with a local DJ and somehow he started talking about Japanese designers and what he said was more interesting and it felt more researched than what I found in that magazine. I felt scammed really.
Part of the problem is that the ad campaigns themselves have become boring, partly because the clothes are boring now as well. There once was a time not too Long ago when ad campaigns had a story.
I remember buying a vogue in the 90s. The magazine had 90% adverts, was very thick. But I thought it was rubbish for the cost. Glad they are not doing well. The overkill for selling stuff that was unattainable was too much.
@ Not at all. It really had a lot of adverts. Very little articles. Not much information. The main fashion pages was about four and it was on fashion that was out of reach. The articles and editorials, had nothing interesting to say. I thought for the price, it was not worth the money. I have some vogues from the eighties, they seemed more interesting. Something changed in the nineties. Sort of like a money grab. Elle magazine became more popular with fashion and articles. I would always go through the magazines before I bought them from then on. I recently bought a GQ and that was having problems. The articles seemed to move away from helping men dress better and was more about watches and accessories that were beyond expensive. Not much on bags. Lots of car adverts. Adverts on stuff we don’t need. Articles about people who were rich. Lots of woman’s stuff and pictures of woman with barely anything on. I just thought it could of been better. I really like to see trends on fashion and accessories, also Mens hairstyles, eyebrow shaping. I found also with the Mens magazine that the models were like 18 to 25, wearing clothing that they would never afford and looked too old for them. The clothing although well made, was made for older rich people. What I hated about the nineties magazines and 2000’s it seemed to promote or make alright was the druggie lifestyle. I was not happy with those promotions. I did come across some expensive fashion that seemed to target drug cartels in some way. It’s style was a direct focus on street gang styles, not American. I know you are thinking that I have misinterpreted such fashion, but I found it was directed towards certain countries with luxury brand labels. I should of compiled pictures and articles on this. The fashion items were very expensive, shoes like forty thousand dollars.
Would love if you could talk about some of the creative direction differences between Vogue issues- for example Vogue USA compared to Vogue China, Korea, Japan. Thanks! :) Love your channel and hope to catch a stream in the new year
The downside with fashion becoming so mainstream and democratized is that the market is over saturated and there’s so much waste now. It’s unsustainable. Plus everything that’s now coming out that’s new and fresh doesn’t have the same quality and essence. I think everything that we need has already been created, and then some. Bring back thrifting, recycling and repurposing. That’s the fashion future I’m hoping for.
There is a place for physical magazines. It can fill your house and it’s nice to have something beautiful and tactile to pull you in. I think it would be better to decrease the frequency
Im a bit old school anyway but i still get my influence from Print magazines movies and social media. where I live (Michigan) people dont normally wear designer the demands and demographics are usually classic boom to the gen z trends from 10 15 yrs ago. I have to go across town where the Upscale and Unique people are I normally go to nyc or Toronto for my street looks my local thrift store is my last resort the malls are ghosttowned I order my mags from many fashion sites i get stared at when i wear something unique and get complemented and so on. The downside of fashion magazines stared to happen before,during,and after the collapse of 2020 many retail stores closed for good. Fashion magazines til this day are irrelevant it had to many ads people shopped because of boredom thanks to influencers. inflation caused many to save up and many publications disappeared and shown up on apps etc.
This is definitely also a factor. They used to be authorities on ushering the next generation of talented designers. Nowadays it’s solely about celebs and the biggest houses.
For a industry that claims and considers itself to be so creative, they aren’t capable of anything more than recycling styles and looks from previous eras - progress for the sake of progress. They’re always “challenging” and “disrupting”, and I’m sitting there scratching my head like: nobody asked you to do that, just make nice, good quality clothes for people to wear. But of course not. As I’ve learned later in life, the fashion industry is just another front for rich people to launder *their money, and for the poor people to spend the money that they don’t have, hooked on this idea that they must fit some kind of mold in order to be accepted and admired.
some fashion magazine today why they're failing for me they becoming content creator not focus just one aspects.. not like below 2010 beyond below like Vogue.. now for me Vogue is now just celebrity magazines not "fashion magazine".. I love Preview magazine back then (a fashion magazine here in the Philippines) I love and hooked thier articles about fashion while reader them back then.. just I was started collecting the magazine because of my favorite pop icon here in my country I remember then while scanning them through out the pages i started more and more interesting in fashion..
The only magazine I now sub to is New Scientist, I learn something new and exciting every week. I am not a scientist by any means, but I find a lot of hope in scientific breakthroughs.
Fashion magazines were better in the 90s and prior, kept the excitement with new trends, better clothing, models, and stylists back then, no cheap fabrics and materials, different American and Europe movements, pertaining wars, youth culture, American black soul, jazz, and rock music, hippies down to 80s glam and hip-hop and R&B kept it moving, Karl Lagerfeld and others doing hip-hop Chanel runway theme shows in the early 90s, Vivienne Westwood keeping the edge, Edward Enninful at ID magazine, plus more
Anna wintour will resign anyway soon, trust me. Also, the fashion industry is full of ugly secrets. What is going on with Diddy and hip hop will be the same for the fashion industry. Can’t wait for that downfall.
@@Peachyglow-v7k There are things we know, things we don’t know, and things we don’t even realize we don’t know. What’s being presented to us is carefully curated, even the so-called hidden truths like the revelations about Weinstein or Diddy. The reality is that these “exposures” are still surface-level, part of a larger narrative designed to maintain the illusion of transparency and accountability. Even now, many of these celebrities being “outed” were already surrounded by suspicion, so this isn’t as groundbreaking as it seems. What we often perceive as a win-a reckoning or justice-is little more than a controlled spectacle, keeping the deeper truths buried and the system intact.
@@Peachyglow-v7k and about it not being the 90s - There’s nothing new under the sun. What was normalized in the 90s was just as common in the 1800s and continues to be the norm in 2024, heading into 2025 and beyond. The times may change, but the underlying patterns of behavior remain the same
I used to look forward to Arena Homme Plus and Pop, intelligent in-depth interviews, brilliant editorial. And then at some point, the styling became very homogenous - desultory youths in trailer Parks shot in the Juergen Teller fashion (which befuddles me no end) and just really bland styling that makes 8000-dollar coats look like Chav wear. Is this the zeitgeist? Maybe I’m too old to be cool. Now I read Vestoj which is hardy a traditional fashion magazine, rather a collection of fashion-related essays with no ads whatsoever. Sadly they seem to have gone out of print too.
If you wanted to create a new successful magazine, you would need to double down on quality. Beyond Noise is like that; another (non-fashion) example is Monocle. Future magazines might be able to follow the example of wristwatches (which had the digital/quartz revolution, which initially decimated the industry, but now the industry is thriving due to an emphasis on quality) or vinyl records, which have a solid niche revival. As far as advertising is concerned, the problematic nature between media and advertising has been around since the days of William Randolf Hearst. It's just that the advertising spend has followed wherever the readers/viewers are. Peak Vogue was two-thirds ads, but so are your socials. You don't pay directly for those ads in your socials, but you do with your time - the most valuable commodity is socials. I will push back a little on heavy advertising in fashion and design magazines being an entirely bad thing since some of the photography and design in the ads are kind of great sometimes. Beyond Noise is an example of that.
What was the purpose of fashion magazines before anyway ? Were they ever in-depth look into fashion, tips, advice etc ? I've only ever known this press from just before social media took off and they were already just a couple of brochures full of advertisement. They're struggling vis-à-vis social media of course, but I feel they had been collapsing for quite a while before we all went online.
The earlier fashion magazines served as a way to keep high society updated on new fashion trends and gave them fashion tips. That's why when you read Harpers Bazaar issues from Diana Vreeland's time they were giving tutorials on how to wear Balenciaga and Chanel. They would also keep markets up to date on what’s going on in fashion. In the case of Harpers Bazaar for example they would keep the New Yorkers up to date with the fashion happenings in Paris. They were actually really useful, not just ad books.
I stopped buying fashion magazines when they started to get political and pander to elitist celebrities. In my opinion, it's time for Anna Wintour to resign from Vouge too
They both have too many ads and subscription prices are so the barrier for entry is too high. Once the magazines had trendy celebrities and untalented hacks on the cover they became worthless. They are vogue not Marie Claire or Harper's bizarre so I don't know why they would rely on low hanging fruit and a customer base that can't afford eggs during a cost of living crisis let alone a $20 magazine. I will assume the 500 pages of the magazine must be just as pointless and wasteful. The Internet version is just as bad if not worse as the physical copy for using advisements and pop culture BS. They both can also benefit from better writers and editors.
I grew up poor af and I always seen posh ladies buying Vogue and wanted one for myself. When I finally had the money to spare for it, I got it and it was (I kid you not) around 90% ads for luxury brands. And I don't really hate ads, but if they were a bit more effort, let's say pictures from the runway and explanations, maybe I would not have minded them so much, but they were the exact same ads I seen on tv and in malls. And to top the mess, they had quite a bunch of ads for Chanel and guess what, the interview for that edition was with someone from Chanel. Later I went back on the internet and I was reading an interview with a local DJ and somehow he started talking about Japanese designers and what he said was more interesting and it felt more researched than what I found in that magazine. I felt scammed really.
same...
So right, love how Japan makes individuality out of bags.
Part of the problem is that the ad campaigns themselves have become boring, partly because the clothes are boring now as well. There once was a time not too Long ago when ad campaigns had a story.
I remember buying a vogue in the 90s. The magazine had 90% adverts, was very thick. But I thought it was rubbish for the cost. Glad they are not doing well. The overkill for selling stuff that was unattainable was too much.
May depend on the issue and the edition. For instance, my 90s British Vogue magazines are mostly editorials vs adverts.
Not denying that Vogue had a lot of advertising even in the 90's, but sounds like you're counting editorials as adverts.
@ Not at all. It really had a lot of adverts. Very little articles. Not much information. The main fashion pages was about four and it was on fashion that was out of reach. The articles and editorials, had nothing interesting to say. I thought for the price, it was not worth the money. I have some vogues from the eighties, they seemed more interesting. Something changed in the nineties. Sort of like a money grab. Elle magazine became more popular with fashion and articles. I would always go through the magazines before I bought them from then on. I recently bought a GQ and that was having problems. The articles seemed to move away from helping men dress better and was more about watches and accessories that were beyond expensive. Not much on bags. Lots of car adverts. Adverts on stuff we don’t need. Articles about people who were rich. Lots of woman’s stuff and pictures of woman with barely anything on. I just thought it could of been better. I really like to see trends on fashion and accessories, also Mens hairstyles, eyebrow shaping. I found also with the Mens magazine that the models were like 18 to 25, wearing clothing that they would never afford and looked too old for them. The clothing although well made, was made for older rich people. What I hated about the nineties magazines and 2000’s it seemed to promote or make alright was the druggie lifestyle. I was not happy with those promotions. I did come across some expensive fashion that seemed to target drug cartels in some way. It’s style was a direct focus on street gang styles, not American. I know you are thinking that I have misinterpreted such fashion, but I found it was directed towards certain countries with luxury brand labels. I should of compiled pictures and articles on this. The fashion items were very expensive, shoes like forty thousand dollars.
Would love if you could talk about some of the creative direction differences between Vogue issues- for example Vogue USA compared to Vogue China, Korea, Japan. Thanks! :) Love your channel and hope to catch a stream in the new year
Will do!
Fashion magazines = paying for a book of adverts. I can look at adverts for free on social media ;)
The downside with fashion becoming so mainstream and democratized is that the market is over saturated and there’s so much waste now. It’s unsustainable. Plus everything that’s now coming out that’s new and fresh doesn’t have the same quality and essence. I think everything that we need has already been created, and then some. Bring back thrifting, recycling and repurposing. That’s the fashion future I’m hoping for.
There is a place for physical magazines. It can fill your house and it’s nice to have something beautiful and tactile to pull you in.
I think it would be better to decrease the frequency
Im a bit old school anyway but i still get my influence from Print magazines movies and social media. where I live (Michigan) people dont normally wear designer the demands and demographics are usually classic boom to the gen z trends from 10 15 yrs ago. I have to go across town where the Upscale and Unique people are I normally go to nyc or Toronto for my street looks my local thrift store is my last resort the malls are ghosttowned I order my mags from many fashion sites i get stared at when i wear something unique and get complemented and so on. The downside of fashion magazines stared to happen before,during,and after the collapse of 2020 many retail stores closed for good. Fashion magazines til this day are irrelevant it had to many ads people shopped because of boredom thanks to influencers. inflation caused many to save up and many publications disappeared and shown up on apps etc.
Hello lil mitten fashionista! I’m from and in Michigan currently as well. 👋🏻🧤
I have a hot take maybe they're not doing so well is because they don't talk about the independent designer just the big houses.
This is definitely also a factor. They used to be authorities on ushering the next generation of talented designers. Nowadays it’s solely about celebs and the biggest houses.
Ohhh I would love the fashion archive - Istanbul
0:14 i agree also learning the fashion of your time
Theres really no optimal way to learn. Just start with what u like. Also lol osbatt reference
For a industry that claims and considers itself to be so creative, they aren’t capable of anything more than recycling styles and looks from previous eras - progress for the sake of progress. They’re always “challenging” and “disrupting”, and I’m sitting there scratching my head like: nobody asked you to do that, just make nice, good quality clothes for people to wear.
But of course not.
As I’ve learned later in life, the fashion industry is just another front for rich people to launder *their money, and for the poor people to spend the money that they don’t have, hooked on this idea that they must fit some kind of mold in order to be accepted and admired.
some fashion magazine today why they're failing for me they becoming content creator not focus just one aspects.. not like below 2010 beyond below like Vogue.. now for me Vogue is now just celebrity magazines not "fashion magazine"..
I love Preview magazine back then (a fashion magazine here in the Philippines) I love and hooked thier articles about fashion while reader them back then.. just I was started collecting the magazine because of my favorite pop icon here in my country I remember then while scanning them through out the pages i started more and more interesting in fashion..
Creatives should go back to making diy magazine making... Bring back the underground feel....
The only magazine I now sub to is New Scientist, I learn something new and exciting every week. I am not a scientist by any means, but I find a lot of hope in scientific breakthroughs.
Fashion Roadman magazine. Yes!
Fashion magazines were better in the 90s and prior, kept the excitement with new trends, better clothing, models, and stylists back then, no cheap fabrics and materials, different American and Europe movements, pertaining wars, youth culture, American black soul, jazz, and rock music, hippies down to 80s glam and hip-hop and R&B kept it moving, Karl Lagerfeld and others doing hip-hop Chanel runway theme shows in the early 90s, Vivienne Westwood keeping the edge, Edward Enninful at ID magazine, plus more
Anna wintour will resign anyway soon, trust me. Also, the fashion industry is full of ugly secrets. What is going on with Diddy and hip hop will be the same for the fashion industry. Can’t wait for that downfall.
They'll get away with it
@ no they won’t. We live in a different timeline than the 90’s.
@@Peachyglow-v7k There are things we know, things we don’t know, and things we don’t even realize we don’t know. What’s being presented to us is carefully curated, even the so-called hidden truths like the revelations about Weinstein or Diddy.
The reality is that these “exposures” are still surface-level, part of a larger narrative designed to maintain the illusion of transparency and accountability. Even now, many of these celebrities being “outed” were already surrounded by suspicion, so this isn’t as groundbreaking as it seems. What we often perceive as a win-a reckoning or justice-is little more than a controlled spectacle, keeping the deeper truths buried and the system intact.
@@Peachyglow-v7k and about it not being the 90s - There’s nothing new under the sun. What was normalized in the 90s was just as common in the 1800s and continues to be the norm in 2024, heading into 2025 and beyond. The times may change, but the underlying patterns of behavior remain the same
@ I know that, I don’t look at things on surface level. But that still does not mean they will get away with it. It’s a different time now.
I used to look forward to Arena Homme Plus and Pop, intelligent in-depth interviews, brilliant editorial. And then at some point, the styling became very homogenous - desultory youths in trailer Parks shot in the Juergen Teller fashion (which befuddles me no end) and just really bland styling that makes 8000-dollar coats look like Chav wear. Is this the zeitgeist? Maybe I’m too old to be cool. Now I read Vestoj which is hardy a traditional fashion magazine, rather a collection of fashion-related essays with no ads whatsoever. Sadly they seem to have gone out of print too.
i wish everything goes back to physical print
If you wanted to create a new successful magazine, you would need to double down on quality. Beyond Noise is like that; another (non-fashion) example is Monocle.
Future magazines might be able to follow the example of wristwatches (which had the digital/quartz revolution, which initially decimated the industry, but now the industry is thriving due to an emphasis on quality) or vinyl records, which have a solid niche revival.
As far as advertising is concerned, the problematic nature between media and advertising has been around since the days of William Randolf Hearst. It's just that the advertising spend has followed wherever the readers/viewers are. Peak Vogue was two-thirds ads, but so are your socials. You don't pay directly for those ads in your socials, but you do with your time - the most valuable commodity is socials.
I will push back a little on heavy advertising in fashion and design magazines being an entirely bad thing since some of the photography and design in the ads are kind of great sometimes. Beyond Noise is an example of that.
What was the purpose of fashion magazines before anyway ? Were they ever in-depth look into fashion, tips, advice etc ? I've only ever known this press from just before social media took off and they were already just a couple of brochures full of advertisement. They're struggling vis-à-vis social media of course, but I feel they had been collapsing for quite a while before we all went online.
The earlier fashion magazines served as a way to keep high society updated on new fashion trends and gave them fashion tips. That's why when you read Harpers Bazaar issues from Diana Vreeland's time they were giving tutorials on how to wear Balenciaga and Chanel. They would also keep markets up to date on what’s going on in fashion. In the case of Harpers Bazaar for example they would keep the New Yorkers up to date with the fashion happenings in Paris.
They were actually really useful, not just ad books.
wait, is this live or just a premier of live? im confuse
It's a video that was premiered
I think it’s a clip from one of his recent livestreams
I take them out from the Library.
omg the french audio is baaad, I switched to the original lol
I've heard the dubbing is really horrible haha
xd
I stopped buying fashion magazines when they started to get political and pander to elitist celebrities. In my opinion, it's time for Anna Wintour to resign from Vouge too
i totally agree with you ! i thought i was the only one who noticed this,
Plus, Vogue has lost its sense of creativity and beauty.
They both have too many ads and subscription prices are so the barrier for entry is too high. Once the magazines had trendy celebrities and untalented hacks on the cover they became worthless. They are vogue not Marie Claire or Harper's bizarre so I don't know why they would rely on low hanging fruit and a customer base that can't afford eggs during a cost of living crisis let alone a $20 magazine. I will assume the 500 pages of the magazine must be just as pointless and wasteful. The Internet version is just as bad if not worse as the physical copy for using advisements and pop culture BS. They both can also benefit from better writers and editors.