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Installing the best Consumer Ceramic Coating at Home
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
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#forensicdetailing #detailing
Love the Evo range.
The Evo MOHs feels bizarre when applying compared to other coatings; it feels so slick but doesn’t feel like you are applying enough, but is a breeze to buff off.
Great video guys 👍🏼
Thanks for the thorough application video. Great to see a real life application and not brief descriptions.
Great to see Reg and the 140 back and still looking great.
I’ve just put Pure Evo on mine, don’t know about durability yet, but it looks amazing. Normally use CarPro C.Quartz UK 3.0, but I’m really happy I’ve tried something new.
I thought I was was watching Breaking Bad when applying the coating 🤣
Great job you guy's 😎👍
I applied this to my car in January and the first wash was mesmerising, the water beading is so great!
It almost felt too easy to apply!
Maybe I should try it then!
How's it held up so far? What have you used as a top up in between
@@rossmale8715 it’s holding up perfectly and no topper used. I won’t use a topper for quite a while as I want to see how long it lasts
@@pfgdetailing yeah, seeing your user name are you testing it for potential customer jobs?
@@rossmale8715 haha good guess and yes! I need to know if I like using a product, and how well it performs. Obviously I can’t wait near 5 years but at least a good few months!
You’s are my new favourite detailers to watch side by side with Pan the organiser, this video was very helpful in destroying the doubts and nerves of applying the coating, I am ready to smash out my first Gyeon coating in the morning 🙌
(Also practiced today with a consumer base version on my brothers car)
I wish jon was my neighbor or uncle or something of those sorts
If u were my neighbour I'd get you to do the prep! 🤣🤣🤣
@@ForensicDetailing 😂
As a recent subscriber i really can relate to your laughs and humour and approach as I'm learning a lot from your channel and my wallet gets lighter.I washed my new car more times in the last 6 months than my previous car in 7 years.Keep up this great work for an awesome channel.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Welcome aboard my friend
there's no way back
Great seeing Reg again - and you both having fun detailing. Nice seeing a white car being worked on, and hearing some of the challenges around the paint correction. Gyeon seem to product values even though it's all pretty good value - great products, pretty straightforward application and durability; the packaging stands out; and the applicators etc are all great quality.
That was a top notch vid, pleasure having Reg on board, always good to see skills handed down. The finish was impeccable. Hats off you you both. I'm going to coat mine when it gets delivered....deliberating over Mohs Syncro like Reg, Pure, C Quartz 3.0 with Sic or gliss topper, then I'm thinking about Adam's advanced graphene ceramic coating with the gold label as that does paint, glass including windscreen, plastic trim, PPF and high temp resistance for wheels. I'm swaying towards Adam's....my head is about to explode with information overload, I've over thinked (if that's a word) and watched too many reviews on here....I just need some down to earth, calm thinking. Jon or anyone in this community- advice greatly received!!
Im installing Pure Evo tommorrow.
@@ForensicDetailing Pure Evo is a great product, it will work on plastic trims and more. It looks so easy to apply giving you plenty of time to level and final wipe. Its a more relaxed application process. You can cover more and to apply more throughly without rushing. The finish is outstanding on most colours too. The candy look will make it look like its dripping wet. Even now I'm talking about Pure Evo is making me sway back towards this one. Gyeon know their stuff. I cannot wait to see the process and final results on your motor Jon. I eagerly await your vid! You should definitely think about a Can Coat Evo topper- apparently its insane 👍
We're definitely gonna wanna see that first wash when it's fully cured! (maybe in a week or two?) I have a Syncro Evo kit there sitting waiting for me to set the time aside to do my daily which currently has CQUK 3.0 on it since 2019 (and still beading like madness). You kinda just get bored after so long and I wanna give my car a good polish and try out this new coating. I've seen the water beading and it's INSANE! Hoping they fixed the durability issue because the original Syncro lost hydrophobicity rapidly after about 6 months. This one is supposedly improved and lasts a lot longer. If it ends up disappointing like the original Syncro in terms of longevity, then hey no biggie I'll just go back to the tried and true 3.0 ;) It has never let me down before.
Really what I see, are reports that gyeon does not have a good durability.
I have uk 3.0 applied to my daily vehicle since April 2018, and it is firm and strong.
@@dacdri CQUK 3.0 is definitely tried and true and one of the best options (if not THE best when you consider the price, ease of use and the fact that everyone sells it) for a coating. It's easy to install and the performance is incredible. Extremely hydrophobic and extremely durable. I have a single stage 88 CRX Si and I also coated it in 2019 and the coating still beads even on the old rubber trims lol. Granted it's a garage queen, but it HAS seen the road and the elements. It's spent quite a few days outside under the blazing sun which is what kills single stage quickly. The coating made it MUCH more resistant to the sun's destructive UV rays, one thing which I thought was a marketing gimmick of coatings. Once I saw that the CRX got baked under the sun for hours and hours, then got rained on, then got baked for more hours under the sun and when I brought her back into the garage, it wasn't full of a ton of little droplets permanently etched into the paint surprised me. There are some areas that need touching up because it's had accidents from people doing work in my house, like the rear bumper, but I'll probably redo the whole thing and test out the CanCoat that should come in the mail soon. Have always wanted to try that coating but never have, and supposedly the Evo version is even better. We'll see if that's true.
@@groundcontrol6876 Show keep me infirming hug
11:20 wow nice prep work. 21:35 And amazing results !!
I'm looking to put this ceramic coating on our BMW 7 Series later in the year when it's warmer and no frosts as I don't have a garage. Started using a few Gyeon products and was very impressed with the quality. Bought Leather cleaner mild set, leather shield and q2 Rim.
Reg is the man! Always liked him since he first appeared!
Hes a top dude, has the same obsessive nature towards his hobbies that I have.
It’s good to see Reg he’s got vast skills as you told me before Jon👍
I love Gyeon its my favorite coating mfg Wolfgang Profi ceramic coating though harder to apply is my 2nd favorite as it's a superior chemical resistant coating and has held up to heavy acidic and alkaline cleaners with no wear truly amazing stuff you have to give it a go and test it! I used Mohs but I like Pure Evo for its carnuba like gloss that's unbeatable
I remember when you was mr Baxter in Grange Hill.
Did pure evo. Absolutely gorgeous coating, the car I was working on looked like it was dipped in a candy coating when I got done.
Not difficult to work with at all and the price is right.
Always enjoy seeing master Reg on the channel, Rule Britannia 🇬🇧
I'm gonna be trying this the old pure was sticky, if the new one is smooth that's awesome
Same here just applied pure evo to my black mazda 3, looks insane
Btw the end result looked stunning wow that is one tight beamer. White is such a nice color when treated like this.
Jon, thanks for your good instructional videos … applied Synchro, my 1st coating last weekend. 27 hours over two days on my white 2021 Toyota Hilux! Prep took forever 😮. Rupes DA pure and white pad, then switched to Da fine and yellow pad with a Rupes duetto and a Das6 pro with 3” pads. The da fine got me a nice finish much faster. I found using the big applicators felt like I wasn’t applying enough mohs but I did use a light and noticed small beading so hope I did (15mls remains from a 50ml bottle). 2 hrs to do the whole car including the canopy then skin which seemed to go on a lot easier but another 2 hrs. I feel like the suede side of the applicator would be best for mohs and skin. The micro fibre seemed to absorb too much product? I went panel by panel but my panels are large. Found it was slightly grabby on removal after approx 30-40 secs. So hope I wasn’t too aggressive wiping off. It was a marathon - It’ll be garaged with a small heater for the next 14 days..
nice work mate yer its a lot of work compared to a quick whixx over with wax but you should get long laster protection now.
I wish you was my next door neighbor or best mate as I'd have you help with my black metallic Audi A8 executive that I try to polish and wax every week but getting old now 😭👍
I have a bottle of Mohs and CanCoat EVO waiting to be applied. Looks like its good stuff.
Just a thought. As we strive for the ultimate in hydrophobicity, doesn't that mean the opposite is true, i.e. any substance that is nonpolar, such as oils, grease, road films, etc., will bond even better to our coatings? I know that after I drive my coated and topped vehicle in the rain on the highway, the road film on the sides is firmly adhered to the vehicle, almost the opposite of what you'd expect.
Man I wish I could go there and hang with you guys, and detail cars with you. John your the legend!! Sorry Rich:)
Good vid Jon and shows that a good coating can be applied by any one with a bit of care,
Two questions how many pads did you use or did you wash in between polishing, and did I hear correct he going to wax over top of a coating ?surely that would block the coating from working properly ? Or am I wrong , thanks
❤17:38 reminded me the old commercial for latex protection 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Interesting that if you look after it properly then there's potentially no need for the ceramic.... where tar and stuff sticks to the lower parts.
yer i think the guys that pamper their cars dont benefit from coatings. more for people that dont.
Quick question, Does clay barring a car remove the ceramic coating? Just wondering how is best to deal with things stuck on paint work if the car is ceramic sealed. Thanks
@Jon you know its a legit coating when it comes with an applicator jacket :)
Hi Jon, Any chance of having a review of the coating? What’s the water repellency like etc? Thinking of having this costing on my car but I’m a sucker for a bit of bead action😍🤣 great vid guys👍🏽
He’s going to enjoy that coating!
Reg reminds me of the wee English fella from Derry Girls
Sorry Jon, I know it’s an old video. I’ve just ordered the lite version of this kit. I am assuming I need to purchase an applicator / towel separate?
google mate come on "gyeon mohs lite contents" shows small applicator is included.
hi hi, Can Mohs be applied to the exterior piano black part? Thanks a lot!
you have to direct product queries to the brand mate
Job well done John and well explained 😉🖒
Great double act, nice job fellas 😍
This video was really helpful for me since I'm going to do this for my first time as well as polishing. Thank you so much you guys! Just one question, can you apply ceramic coating on trims and headlights or maybe windshield? Thanks!
Yes m8 but prep is critical. Specially glass
I just applied mohs evo and love it, but I am not sure it's right for me. I have black paint that is so easy to swirl and what I want more than any other property is hardness and swirl resistance .. would pure evo or another brand have been better with higher sio2 content or otherwise
coatings wont really do that mate.think how thin a micron is. 1000 microns make a millimeter. your coating is 1 micron roughly. something that thin does not have any significant ability to reinforce the strength of the substrate. its an interesting discussion perhaps if you layer up a coating and get like 3+ microns you can have some tiny benefit. but its not going to be the key factor. The key factor will be your wash process. use prewash. use a chenille for contact wash. be very carefull when buffing it dry, etc... use air if your really into it.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks, I thought it would help a bit with the hardness, I think its actually the towel drying that does it somehow, black paint is nightmare needs polish every 6 months. I have a little blower but just use it for the run off areas
Love this channel man . Thank you so much for all your hard work with this amazing content that you have been giving us over the years. I'm actually in the market for a good ceramic costing which I'm gonna do my self . Is this your top pick of current ceramic coatings at the moment ?
Yes m8 or mohs on it's own if u don't want multilayer
If it’s a new car straight from factory with no visible scratches do I still need to polish?
Check fir Contamination first. Then clay if found. If u clay u must polish. If no contamination and no swirls you could choose not to polish. Very slim chance of this
Can we have a follow up on this car in a few months?
I think I’m going to get just the mohs evo as the skin is meant to add gloss but your lose slickness , I want the slickness , I was going to use the Gyeon one but change of plan and In Gyeons video and they say don’t over work it so best to apply in one motion instead of keep working it in with cross hatch pattern
mohs on its own is a really good option to.
Hi Jon. Great video as always. How does this compare to Gtechniq CSL + Exo V4?
ive not used the latest versions but the Gtechniq products Ive used install really nice and buff well, perhaps not as beady as the gyeon stuff.
Amazing video! Actually I was wondering, can you also apply the Mohs coating on the headlights and exterior plastics such as the B-Style?
Yee
Yes m8 u can
I used it for the first time last week..
I wouldn't recommend it if you've never done a coating before as it will bite you if you don't concentrate especially on dark colours.
It does look amazing on dark colours soon as you apply the skin you get that omg moment..
Question?
Would you clay brand new paint or just chemical decontamination?
After using Korrosol on nearly new paint I felt I was wasting my time clear barring..
Feel paint for contamination. If it's rough then clay. Fr helps claying
Great video! Was wondering did you apply the syncro to the bmw kidney grill?
No mi
As always Jon you make me laugh using your head for a high five 😂
I loved using the Primer polish - easy in all regards. Slick, easy to buff and apply 👌 one thing i hate is it is dyed blue and turns the pad blue 👹 did you have that ? Can you clean them out completely or will they be blue for good ?
It's water based and as long as you don't let it dry it flushes out the pad easily. But I agree I don't like die in these products either Chris.
Interested to see you do the evo can coat!
Nice Video John!!! I am having a Synchro kit put on as we speak on my wheels of my ‘21 GTD- do you think it will work well? Thanks
If applied correctly that should last you a good 2 years on the wheels.
Great video guys!
What brand of shop light is it that you have in this video?
flex mate
Hi jon, got a question for u if u dont mind. When would u use a product like Nova Lustre instead of a ceramic coating? Ive just purchased a bottle of lustre and if the best way to use a product like this to get the most out of it, is washing, claying and polishing then why wouldnt someone just put a ceramic coating down, obviously the extra cost but the same sort of prep is involved. Thx mate
Lustre could be used as a base after full prep or as a topper mate
@@ForensicDetailing cheers Jon. Enjoying the channel from Australia mate. Keep up the good work. Last question. How long does it take you to prep a car including clay, (in good condition, so maybe a one step polish) and apply a ceramic coating on say a mid size sedan?
Still don't get straight answer about using Primer. What is the best using method? Leave Primer for 24h and starting coating without wiping with Prep or wiping with Prep after few hours? What You think Jon? 🤔
I figure leaving it is best. But 24 hours means you can't resume in the morning after the afternoon before... As that's only 12 hours. So 99% of times everyone will primer and prep buff. Testing ultimately is only way to observe true difference though.
Jon I’m guessing you and Reg work at the same business?. I’m going by your shirts have the same logo..
Looks Great Jon, Great to see you wore a coat to protect you head and upper body....what about a Mask 😷 to protect your lungs 🫁....not being a health & safety geek....just watching out for you....😁😁🤟🤟🚗🚗 im sure you put a mask on off camera and didn't wear on for the video clip part, so we could hear you...👍👍👍
Keep up the Great vids, always very entertaining & interesting & very informative 👍 👏 👌
15:10 the freaking white gown to install a coating, i've seen it all 😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good job pal 👍
If highspot materializes less then 24hrs, must you repolish?
generally if the high spot is left for like longer than 30-60 minutes you will need to buff it down. but you can try and disolve it with a bit more coating over the top.
with all these chemicals and products you have in your garage how do you know what to use on what car and where that product you need in that garage
damn good question :)
@@ForensicDetailing im glad im not the only one then just never able to figure out what you aint got what you do have and where it is must be time consuming finding the stuff you want for each job
Nicely done 👍😁
I’ve read you are installing Pure Evo shortly. Any chance you are filming this and will upload it? I’m doing Pure soon as well on the weekend!
Yes m8
@@ForensicDetailing Awesome, love your work!
Ive got the pro version single coat infinity . In the end i couldnt be bothered to do it and it come with a single stage polish for 300 quid. Seems to perform well so far.
Could have spent £250 on a lot of equipment and do the next 10 cars for the price you paid for just that.
@@piovo5222 My M4 was 85 grand. Why do i care about 300 quid.
@@mattx4253it is your money but that’s shocking that you’ve paid 80k for that.
@@piovo5222 Its a brand new M4 Xdrive, that's how much they cost in high spec lol
@@mattx4253 yea I know mate the G82, I meant that for that much money you could have gotten many other better cars. Unless it’s financed obviously.
Best ceramic coating 👌
but the best is CK Quartz, Gyeon gets water spotted over time
Reg can keep u posted on water spot issues... Nothing so far. I think the skin and cure products are their the help with that
@@ForensicDetailing thanks
I ended up buying one of Gyeons older ceramic coating which was half price
old cancoat is like 19 quid :)
@@ForensicDetailing thanks I did see the cancoat, I went for the gyeon q2 one 50ml for £18 , hopefully I can do 2 layers with it , I chose this as it’s meant to be easy to apply and get 1 year durability , then next year I’ll move upto a longer lasting coating , maybe even Adam’s graphene coating and there’s lots of fake Adam’s graphene coatings on eBay and from china
I don’t have access to a garage overnight and want to ceramic coat my car. If the weather is nice (British summer) and little to no wind, could you get away with leaving it out overnight?? Many thanks.
yes if conditions are good. I will do this soon on the channel and show you. products like Gyeon Cure can be used used to mitigate the risks.
Brilliant. I’m getting a brand new car late July (X3 M40i), so want to get some protection down ASAP but want to make sure it’s done right. I’ve been using Adams Graphene Spray on the current car. I like Gtechniq products but happy to take your advice. Also if you can mention about coating the alloys (but without taking them off) and the exhaust pipes that would be great too. Thanks 👍😎
How many ml of coating did it take to cover the car? Gyeon is stating 15-25ml/car.
No we used 75% of the bottle mohs and 50% of the skin
@@ForensicDetailing 30ml bottle?
Don’t really need to clay the car if it’s not heavily contaminated but good job nonetheless
That jacket makes you like a member of east 17
Aiiiiiiiiittttt
John, can I ask you the dimensions of your garage please?
5 by 5 I think roughly mate.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks John
We all love Reg.. more reg aha
Sorry off topic.. but please someone help.
Flex XCE 10-8 125.. or Flex XFE 7-15 150. I’m about to pull the trigger on one of these but I’m stumped.
Ok mate I could write an essay on this but for me personally its XCE all day long. Use Rupes blue wool for extreme cut, Flex purples for mid range cut and single stage on hard paints. Flex oranges and reds etc... rupes yellow wool works good on it as well... Koch H9 F6 M3 abrasives... job done.
@@ForensicDetailing what a legend thank you. I’d already bought the Koch Chemie system including the pads. Will it work well with the KC pads?
Nice video Jon and Reg! I’ve recently coated my car with Can Coat Evo, liking it so far. I’m considering going with Mohs Evo or Syncro Evo next for sure. Always been a fan of Gyeon’s offerings across the board.
Got a question Jon, currently have a Rupes LHR15 mk3 and a PXE 80 for the intricate areas. I’ve been very tempered to get the XCE 8 cordless for the forced rotation since the Rupes does stall on some panel shapes even with a good technique. Would you say it is worth making the change?
Man I also have a Mk3 15mm and that thing stalls if the panel has even the slightest of curvatures lol. I still haven't tried adding a washer since Rupes decided to make it a pain for you to do so by making the shape not round. You can get custom made washers at buffdaddy but because of where I live, I'd have to order like 8 or 10 just so they ship it over to me and then I end up paying a ridiculous amount of money just to get a washer mod for the machine. I COULD buy a regular washer and then sand/grind it down to size but I haven't gotten around to it.
@@groundcontrol6876 I did contemplate doing the washer mod but have never actually got round to it. I think unfortunately it would only help so much as my car has some quite sharp angles on some panels. Quite annoying as apart from stalling out it’s a really nice, smooth machine to use. Does a really good job of correcting flat and not so curved panels pretty quickly. Then when you check after a set there are still swirls close to the convex or concave areas where it has stalled out. That’s the joys of free spinning machines I guess.
@@Mac_F87 Use the 3" machines for the sharp angled areas and even the 1" for the really intricate places like around door handles and around the rear windows in a porsche for example where the area has some sharp turns with weird shapes that you can't really dig into properly and/or safely with bigger machines. I love my Mk3 but yeah definitely wish it had a little bit more oomph. If it had as much oomph as my 3" adam's swirl killer mini (I think that's the name?) then it would be perfect and an absolute monster. That little 3" machine doesn't stall out even if you sit on it. XD
If I were you, I would either get a rupes nano or a flex rotary, if you want to add to your arsenal. The forced rotation is highly overrated and substantially less comfortable to use than any other type of machine. I rarely use my 3401, as I can get better results with more ease by using either a rotary or a free spinning DA machine. It should also be noted that just because the pad momentarily stalls, doesn't mean the paint isn't being corrected. If you are purely going for speed in a high production shop, the forced rotation machine might be more appealing. Remember, the pad stalling is for your protection so you don't remove too much paint from those areas it does stall.
Personally, I like having a flex rotary because of how smooth and quiet it is and I can add a shaft extension with 1" or 2" (or any size) backing plate which allows me to do anything a rupes nano can do, just has some extra bulk.
At the risk of sounding patronizing, doesn't your pxe easily handle the panels/body lines where the rupes tends to stall? You have two of the most capable machines currently on the market, I don't think you will be most happy filling the tiny gap those machines can't cover and would be better served with a 3rd machine that has very different capabilities than what you already have. Good luck, give us a review if you do end up with a xce8.
@@groundcontrol6876 yeah I should probably have went for a corded smaller machine. The PXE 80 I have is good for the tight areas but it lacks the power to really lean on it to correct the harder paint on my car.
serious question for reggie, im not trolling, im a bank manager and i can barely afford groceries, how can such a young guy afford a 30k plus car? i probably need to learn from you. what you work at? how do you cumulate such an income? thanks and you have a very nice car
Sorry other people finances are outside of the scope of this.
It's called a bank loan
The M140i is not a £30k plus car though. They were down at mid to late teens before the chip shortage, you can get a lowish mileage car cira 30k miles for £20-22k even with the current higher values.
@@Mac_F87 still 22k is a lot of money, my dad is 70 and never has seen such a number...
@@MuscleFlexPro £22k is not a lot these days. Any number of jobs where someone Reg’s age could afford an M140i. He could have been left money, be a grafter, have finance or any combination of them. Ultimately that’s his business and no one else’s.
How much Mohs did you use for one layer?
We used a lot of the mohs, about 75% of the bottle but only 50% of the skin
@@ForensicDetailing 30 ml bottle ?
I didn’t realise Superdry sponsored the channel?! Haha
The fashion god's aligned when reg turned up in the same outfit 🤣🤣🤣
Now all that's left to do is to put a sacrificial layer of gyeon wax on top and it should be a no efforts needed for the next 4 months at least.
On top of skin?
@@NipponStiqqyPaint yes, was some other detailer that suggested that as a "soft" waste away layer
I dunno, man. I did a Tacoma trd in voodoo blue like 3 weeks ago in pure evo and just put cure over the top.
With how slick a thing like skin or the old Gyeon booster are I just can’t imagine even a fluorine wax could be as good.
Yer gonna apply mohs wait and skin wait and then Wax?
😮💨😮💨😮💨 that’s a heavy Saturday
@@NipponStiqqyPaint yeah it's going to take a while, but I think the whole idea was that wax was easier to fix and get leveled again so it would save you time in the long run
What is the point? Isn’t the point of Skin or MOHs for the self cleaning and hydrophobics? Or any coating. Why bother with the coating at all and just apply the Wax. The same with applies with the Ceramic Detailers and “toppers” what’s the point if you’re just masking the coating with something inferior?
Sponsored by super dry 😂
You should probably wear a mask while doing this
Should you? Do you what you would breathing in? Do you know what type of mask? Basic particularly filter? Half face with filter or full face with filter? What filter types required? Most of the vapor is di-n-butyl which is harmless some is naptha some ammonia and then tiny amounts of silane vapour. Particule filter masks will do nothing. You should really just make sure area is well ventilated but we have talked about PPE and mask before. Proper mask if u Install in workshop a lot as a pro.
4th
Getting slow my friend
@@ForensicDetailing 😄😄was driving to church and couldn't text😄
Another sponsored by video……… 🤔
Hmm yes m8 its marked as such so people that don't want to watch sponsored content get notified at the start so they can avoid etc...
@@ForensicDetailing must have missed that bit but each to their own. Not for me I’m afraid
🤡 the clown car pulled up early today 🤡
Now that John has built up a large following he deserves to be recognised and sponsored by these large companies. I've watched enough of John's videos to trust his opinion whether the content is sponsored or not.
Keep up the good work, John. I hope you get approached and sponsored by more of the big companies in this sector.
@@trevdavis9234 struggling to work out your issue here? It’s clearly stated at the start of the video on the top left had corner. Gyeon products are good, especially their coatings. It’s not as if Jon has sold out to endorse some snake oil garbage. Of course in a paid for promotional video their products will be used for the whole process, like Gyeon suggest anyway. Again I can’t see the issue, each to their own I guess!