Magnetizing Necron Warriors | Tutorial
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лис 2020
- In this video I demonstrate how to magnetize your Necron Warrior miniatures, so that they can be played using either weapon load out
#Warhammer40k #Necrons #Magnetizing
For the new 40k Necrons, the sprue comes with 2 weapon options, a Gauss Flayer and a Gauss Reaper. I go through the process of building and magnetizing these models, so that you can easily and quickly switch between either weapon, instead of building them with only one possible option.
The models shown in this video are available as part of the 9th edition starter sets and as a stand alone box from GW and should be available at you local game store. Based on pricing of the solo box, I highly advise buying the starter sets to get these models, since you get between 2x to 4x of the models with the starter sets.
Warhammer 40k Recruit Edition
Games Workshop (CA) - www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/...
Warhammer 40k Elite Edition
Games Workshop (CA) - www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/...
Warhammer 40k Command Edition
Games Workshop (CA) - www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/...
I have removed the Amazon links that used to be here, since I left their affiliate program over a dispute related to payment.
Contact:
contact at sleepywhatsit dot com
Instagram: / sleepywhatsit
Tumblr: www.tumblr.com/sleepywhatsit
Ko-Fi: ko-fi.com/sleepywhatsit
Twitch: / sleepywhatsit
Credits:
"Baba Yaga" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b... - Ігри
Just got back into 40k after over a decade. Just magnetized my first warrior. Thanks for the guide.
Glad it was helpful!
Straight up blew my mind.
Thanks for the great idea Sleepy WhatsIt. I also "marked" the different reapers/flayers in order that they are fixed to their expected bodies and left arms. Not all the flayers/reaper fix in every body. ;)
I had noticed that, I was thinking of doing something like colour coding the contact surfaces for the magnets
I set a code of "marks" in the lower straight part of the weapons from 1mark to 10marks, so for each pack of 10 warriors I know which are the ones with compatible weapons.
ty I was looking for just this
Glad that you were able to find what you were looking for!
thankyou so much for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video
Thanks!
Nice video! I might consider doing these with my warriors. I thought it would be a pain with the right shoulder joint.
Thanks, sometimes you just gotta clip random bits off your models 😅
Honestly, I'm thinking something like that or make a hole/fill with green stuff in the arm socket and then place a magnet in there for the arm to fit properly. I'll see once my magnets get delivered :)
I am obviously trying to be conservative with my magnets since I only have about 2k of them left 😅 ... I may have misread the lot size when ordering them.
Lmfao XD Yeah, try not to use them all up. ;)
nice!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Glad to be of help
@@SleepyWhatsIt of course you helped! I've some scouts (and with some luck,if hachette will relase imperium in italy too) with the same configuration for shotgun and bolt rifle,and i'd like to switch some times.
I mean it a great idea but what I do is sand the left sand a bit so it's easy to take out the weapon only bad part is if you sand it to much the weapon won't stay put so u need to be perfect
Nice clean work, man!
But I'm not sure it is neccesary. I simply didn't glue in the arm peg and now the gun arm can be taken away easily. Shoulder slot just fits in and no-glue peg on the arm holds the gun good enough.
This is probably a situation of me slightly over engineering a solution 😅
Upside to magnetizing the guns, if you have strong enough magnets you can make the rare Necron Warrior wielding a combo Gauss Flayer and Reaper 😁
More practically the magnetized bits stick to the inside of my carrying case so I am less prone to losing them.
How have the magnets held up over the years? Do the magnetized parts fall off on accident? Great video!
These specific models I ended up selling like 6 months after doing this video, since the army I was planning on building got shelved for other projects 😅 So cannot comment on their specific durability. Other models, like Space Marines, I have used the same style and number of magnets, and have been happy with them. If you try to pick up the model by magnetized piece they might come loose, but from general handling and moving they normally stay secure. Might get turned/need to be adjusted if they get bumped, but any one magnetic point set will be prone to turning.
good video, but why you don magntize just the weapon arm to the body?
I played around with different magnetting options for a bit, but I found seating the magnet in the shoulder finckey/I didn't like how it looked. This might be due to the size of magnets I had available.
The magnet on the weapon I found is pretty easy to position and can be painted to look like a handle.
Additionally unless you leave the push fit peg to reinforce things, the entire arm/gun is a lever, so it is easily for the magnetized bit to pop off if the join is at the shoulder.
If you are wanting your weapons to be really secure, a magnet on the weapon and the shoulder would work, but that doubles the workload and cost.
Thanks for the guide!
What glue did you use?
I'm using Citadel Plastic Glue and I can't get the magnet to glue onto the arm nub properly.
Thanks!
I use super glue (cyanoacrylate or CA glue) for attaching magnets. There are hobby specific Brands, but household or craft brands like Gorilla Glue work well, basically anything with a small tip and pin in the lid to keep it from gunking up will work.
Citadel Plastic Glue won't work because it isn't actually a glue, it works by melting and fusing together polystyrene together, most other brands call it a plastic cement or bonder. It is really good for assembling plastic (hard polystyrene) models together, but is useless for adhering non-polystyrene.
Thank you so much for your quick reply! In this case, I may try either Gorilla Glue (no specific kind?) Or Army Painter Super Glue. Thanks again for your help.
For general use I mostly use the micro precision Gorilla Glue (www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-super-glue-micro-precise/). For working with big chunks of resin or metal where I am considering pining then I go with the gel (www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-super-glue-gel/), but that is mostly for big things I definitely don't want to ever move again and can put together in one motion without fiddling, since it basically dries on contact.
I used to use Army Painter, but the snip off tip I found was less precise and led to the glue drying out pretty quickly. If you have something like a bunch of terrain to assemble it is a good cheap solution, but given I was only using a half bottle before tossing it, switching to a brand with a screw on top made sense to me
Thank you!!! I'll try a few options out then.
Can you put primer over the magnets without any trouble?
You can, but it will be prone to chipping since they tend to click together and are hard, so will need to be touched up occasionally
How long does it take? I mean magnetizing one warrior.
I think it only adds a minute or two to the construction of the models, depending on how many times you glue things to yourself.
It takes me between 5 and 10 minutes per model to build them with magnets, towards 5 when doing a batch, closer to 10 on the first one when I wasn't sure exactly how it would go.
Since each one of the Warrior bodies has a different pose and a different corresponding weapon, do you have any system to help coordinate which gun/s go onto which bodies? Or do you just deal with the fact that they don't all line up perfectly?
I ended up color coding the flat surface of the magnets. It tends to chip, but you cannot see them when the weapon is on.
It felt cheaper to buy two sets, it's just so much time.
I can understand that perspective, it is a tradeoff of multiple different factors and it really comes down to your personal situation.
I personally lean towards magnetizing options, so that I don't have to paint effectively the same model multiple times. Though that really gets into what you enjoy about the hobby and things like that. For like a super cool character model I might consider buying multiple and building it different ways to get the chance to paint it again, but for hordes of the same basic model, I am less inclined, unless I am likely to want to field a mixed force of them.