Thank you! Just a question, the protocol eg 7/3 you suggested, isn’t that also a repeater protocol more for endurance more than max strength? But max protocols maybe more intermediate?
Endurance is a broad category, and repeaters are often employed either as a 7/3x6 protocol for finger strength capacity or as a 6/4 or 7/3 until failure or plus 10 per 6 until failure for more anaerobic capacity. Nothing particularly special about the timing, is just a 3:2 or 2:1 work load while on an exercise, thus can be altered, which is why I prefer the addition of 10 seconds every 6th hang to facilitate a quick breath, shake, and chalk before continuing.
Thanks for the very useful bits of advice. I’ve always turned my back to finger boarding, thinking it was dangerous, but I’m also at a stage where I start climbing 7bs and my fingers hurt permanently. A friend told me I’d be safer protecting my fingers with some training. Can anyone confirm whether that’s true?
the fingers work like pretty much all the other muscle groups, u should always warm up and train your fingers progressively so that they get used to the stress and workload, especiialy if u climb 7b
@@simonkristiansen3949Thank you so much for your response. What I’ve been doing is warm up on really easy routes, from 5 through to 6B+ before working on my max grades. Are we saying this is not enough finger warm up and I should do hangs before even starting to climb at all? On every session?
Get a pinch block, because the positioning and ergonomics are rather more important to better focus on thumb flexion while keeping the wrist in an optimal position. Wider is better, have to the first thumb pad, hold for about 15-20sec and adjust weight as needed, and do not do with fingerboard or similar exercises but can often be done end of a session.
Super well rounded advice for beginner and intermediate climbers alike. Very well structured video too. Thanks Catalyst!
ooooo I'm here early! Thanks for the video, I've been meaning to look for something like this!
Any workouts I can follow along ?
Great video. Thanks!
Ironic how hangboarding was a safety concern and not the climbing cliffs part
Thank you! Just a question, the protocol eg 7/3 you suggested, isn’t that also a repeater protocol more for endurance more than max strength? But max protocols maybe more intermediate?
Endurance is a broad category, and repeaters are often employed either as a 7/3x6 protocol for finger strength capacity or as a 6/4 or 7/3 until failure or plus 10 per 6 until failure for more anaerobic capacity. Nothing particularly special about the timing, is just a 3:2 or 2:1 work load while on an exercise, thus can be altered, which is why I prefer the addition of 10 seconds every 6th hang to facilitate a quick breath, shake, and chalk before continuing.
Thanks for the very useful bits of advice. I’ve always turned my back to finger boarding, thinking it was dangerous, but I’m also at a stage where I start climbing 7bs and my fingers hurt permanently. A friend told me I’d be safer protecting my fingers with some training. Can anyone confirm whether that’s true?
the fingers work like pretty much all the other muscle groups, u should always warm up and train your fingers progressively so that they get used to the stress and workload, especiialy if u climb 7b
@@simonkristiansen3949Thank you so much for your response.
What I’ve been doing is warm up on really easy routes, from 5 through to 6B+ before working on my max grades.
Are we saying this is not enough finger warm up and I should do hangs before even starting to climb at all? On every session?
Capsule corp
can i use two different holds
I have yet to find a great pinch solution for hangboarding... any suggestions?
you can check the Power box 2- from Stefano Ghisolfi and HRT
Get a pinch block, because the positioning and ergonomics are rather more important to better focus on thumb flexion while keeping the wrist in an optimal position. Wider is better, have to the first thumb pad, hold for about 15-20sec and adjust weight as needed, and do not do with fingerboard or similar exercises but can often be done end of a session.
he's a rapper
Strong hand moves