Right when I was binging through MacLeod videos and picking up my own copy of "9 out of ten climbers" from mail, Dave is setting me up with a hangboard routine. What a time to be alive! :)
I've enjoyed this video! I made my own timer using Seconds Pro so I could zone out to music or podcasts. For anyone who just wants the timing breakdowns: 30m MacLeod Hangboard Routine WARMUP Jug 10s h 1m r 10s h 1m r 5-6 pullups 1m r 5-6 pullups 1m r 21mm 10s chisel 1m r 10s half crimp 1m r 10s 3-finger-drag 1m r 14mm 10s half crimp 2m r WORKING SETS: Weighted to failure @ 10 seconds 10s chisel 2m r 10s chisel 2m r 10s chisel 2m r 10s half crimp 2m r 10s half crimp 2m r 10s half crimp 2m r 10s 3-finger drag 2m r 10s 3-finger drag 2m r 10s 3-finger drag 1m r Jug 5-6 pullups Thanks Dave MacLeod!
No offense to Tom Randall’s six minute abs, but this is my favorite “follow along” workout. In fact, it’s now my favorite training video period. Appreciate the stories during the tests and all the effort it must have take to create this. Truly visionary! Thanks!
Dave is seriously my favorite UA-camr. Wish he were my dad with the supportive presence he brings to his content. Plus he has waaaaaaaay cooler stories
Best video on hangboarding I've seen. I'm a 63 year-old ex-bumbly/ nowadays mainly rambler and Dave has inspired me to get my unused fingerboard from the garage and install it in my dining room doorway :-)
As comprehensive as you'd expect. I really appreciate Dave laying out the pretty much complete path to maximising every aspect of climbing performance on the internet, for free.
I just finished the workout following along and I just want to say a massive thank you for all of the effort that went into writing shooting and editing this video. I will surely return to watch it more often
I bought a very similar fingerboard and started doing this routine in the morning and climbing same day late afternoon, 3 days per week. Though I couldn't quite match the standard of hangs- maybe only around 6 seconds without any added weight on a 23mm edge, I still managed to increase my grade at the climbing wall within a week. It even felt relatively easy! I can't thank you enough 🙂
The production value of this is outstanding! Having all the different camera angles showing off the board, the upcoming exercise, and your body position were very helpful. The examples of applying the training to real outdoor climbs was also very well done!
Hi Dave, I don't know if you've seen it but I recently heard the nugget climbing podcast episode Dan Varian. He really spoke about individual testing of fingers and activating "lazy" fingers in key grip types and stuff. If you've not heard it I would really recommend, and if you have hearing your take or analysis on the theory stuff would be super interesting. Thanks for quality content as always !!
Awesome job Dave!! Totally love how you share your stories between sets. I started climbing in the mid 90's when we got strong experimenting with all kinds of methods & drawing inspiration from vids such as "The Real Thing", which we passed around friends like some forbidden treasure. 😆 Now as I approach 50, I'm struggling just to slow down the decline in power & tendon/joint integrity, which worsened after Covid earlier this year. I'm not sure what the best training protocol should be for me right now but seeing you pushing so hard even in your 40s has given me a lot of positive motivation to keep on trying. Keep on doing your stuff Dave cause its very much appreciated!!
Unless you are right up against your genetic limits for physical form, there's no issue with reversing any decline which is due in large part to training rather than age. Of course training choices change a little with age, but absolutely no reason to dial down goals unless you are favouring some other lifestyle choice over physical performance and training.
Dave, as a punter who can barely scrape through a 5.12 I truly appreciate this simple program to maybe make my dreams come true. You are a huge benefit to this community, thank you!
Hi Dave, Just finished your routine to start 2023 (writting that with chalky fingers), thanks for sharing all those inofs! It could be great to have a ring workout follow along as well! Happy new year to everybody, Cheers from Bretagne, France!
Wow, this is so helpful. A nice and simple routine, that i can add to my usual training. I'm certainly going to visit this video plenty more in the future! PS: I've been following your content almost ever since i started climbing 3 years ago. And your content is definitely the most informative for me. I learned so much from it not only about climbing, but also about the mental approach and how to manage all this training in a sustainable way with all the other responsibilities of life. Just want to thank you for that! 👍
Thank you so much Dave, it's amazing how much you've helped me and my climbing over the years (and so many others I'm sure). From getting more aware of nutrition and following keto for a couple of years, to this video, which is just invaluable. Really appreciate it. Thanks mate.
Mid roll ads on follow along videos can be very frustrating, especially when they’re mid hang! I appreciate there’s nothing you can do about this though.
Yes, I bet. You could use UA-cam premium (I have this and like it). Alternatively, I have been thinking of producing a series of follow along workouts as paid downloads which of course would be as free. Do you think that would be preferable?
The only way this could have been better is if Dave had come over to my house and asked me if he could come in and coach me through a good simple finger board workout😂 Loved the climbing stories and videos in the resting phases of the work out.
I will definitely send this to all my beginner/intermediate climbing friends! I was think you also could consider a minimal-narration version for repeat users of this video as a regular workout template. Just calm background music with minimalistic instructions and motivational "psyche". I could see people following something like this 2-3x/week, but it would probably get a little awkward hearing the same exact stories every time. (I do love the stories though.)
@@Hopesfallout no, it's still really helpful to have him say what you're doing, and say little things like (okay get ready to pull really hard). I followed a yoga follow-along video every day for months and months during quarantine. Some verbal instructions are really helpful.
This video is so good...well done! Watched it this morning, then watched it again after work....it's so good...editing is improving so much...a climber's video...thanks man!
Thanks for this Dave. I have switched to this session and have already made a little progress, which is especially pleasing as I’m even older than you!
Really enjoyed that video, Dave. Full of useful information. My problem is thinking "I cant hang today because tomorrow I'm doing ....... I'll hang board the day after". Then the week has gone and I've not done anything. Guess I need to make it more of a priority and your videos help me do that.
This is great, thank you! An in depth video for beginning hangboarding on determining what weights one should add and how to determine your max would be great as well.
Great video. Feel like I’ve got good company for my hangboard session. Would love a series of these. Even if the routine was the same, bits of projects, some history and some trademark wisdom.
Great video, which I followed this evening and it worked great. I found the stories and explaining in-between really good as I find one of the off puts for me is time in between. I definitely helps to have something interesting to watch/listen to encourage the decent rest.
Great video and as usual simple and worthwhile advices!! It will be great if you could make a video about a max strength and endurance in the board and also explain how and when to do that...thanks Dave for sharing you knowledge!!
Thanks for this nice routine! Got covid since yesterday and really wanted to climb today. Perfect routine for covid quarantaine and to top it off did some extra weighted pull ups at the end. Thanks for the nice video!❤️
Great follow along video!❤ Interesting to learn about Chisel grip vs Half crimp... The variation is quite smaller... Thanks for explaining the difference... So it seems that most often my half crimp hanging are in fact chisel grip and not proper half crimp. Can you help to elaborate the difference on mechanic between the 2 grip types, and advantage/disadvantage of either. Thank You
What an awesome video. There should be more videos like this one. It’s very helpful for beginners/intermediates like me. Amazing workout and really good intermissions 👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome video Dave! A couple things I'd love to see: how you specifically determined your working weight (does it require a pre-session or can it be done just before this one?) and maybe a guide to the different grip types in your typically highly detailed and nuanced style (chisel, half crimp, thumb over etc) 🙂
Watching this in the train 😅 but I really like this. Most video’s or training apps got a pretty good fingerboard workout, but they just tell you to warm up and warm up your fingers properly. How could an amateur / beginner know what a proper finger warmup looks like? Thanks for showing us.
hi Dave! I have been doing this routine for about 2 years and have seen massive improvement both on the hangboard (up to 160% bodyweight from 100% at first) and in my climbing. How about making another hangboard video, for moderate to advanced climbers (instead of beginner to moderate as you state here) ? Thanks for your hard work and valuable insights! :D
Awesome! I just started doing the hangboard/circuit routine you did in your story. Aiming for 100 sessions like you said someone else did, and I'm 14 in. Still seeing improvements with each session
Nice video this! Definitely going to try this out for my next session! For future editing though I might suggest having the music/speech balance a wee bit more in favour for the speech. Wanted to turn the volume down every time the music came on. Otherwise real solid! 👍
Great to follow this. One interesting thing i discovered is i cant half crimp a beastmaker 20mm or above hole, my knuckles get in the way. Your rail is better in that respect. Turns out my 3 finger drag is way stronger than my crimp, wierd.
Thank you Dave! So happy to be around in a time when videos like this from one of the world's best are so easily accessible. Do you do a different session on the finger board for endurance or would you just train that by climbing? Looking to decrease the arm pump on harder lead routes!
My crimp and Three-finger drag are way weaker than my Chisel grip. I wonder if it’s not worth putting those two first in the session to prioritise their development.
Thank you, the format is motivating, engaging, informative and entertaining. In short, super! In another climbing channel (hard is easy) they pass on one piece of advice from the coaches at Lattice, that is when beginning at hangboarding, it might be good to aim for 15 seconds failure load, so as to allow for connective tissues adaptation as you gain strength. What's your take on it? Anyways, thanks again. Your channel has often encouraged me to both try my hardest and have fun, regardless of the grade I can achieve. I'm grateful!
What's the best way to progress on fingerboard training since there are so many possibilities? You can add weight, you can go to smaller edges, you can use one hand, you can add more sets, hang for longer, rest for less time...
thx Dave for that video! By the way "9 out of ten climbers" is awsome! However there is a point that confuse me a bit, as intermediate climber. You are saying that climbers should rather focus on learning technique by practiciing climbing ( or drills), and should not substract some of their climbing time by some training. On the other hand you are emphasizing on the importance of the finger strengh and the recovery time between climbs. So if I "boulder a a training" then I cannot really have time (or strengh) for a dedicated fingerboard session. Including it in the boulderings sessions days could work but that means cutting on the climbing (less movement)
Loved the video! It would be great if you could comment on the pros and cons of balling up your pinker finger during a three finger drag. When I ball mine up it feels like something is going to tear so I keep the first segment of the pinkie parallel to the ring finger. Cheers
Right when I was binging through MacLeod videos and picking up my own copy of "9 out of ten climbers" from mail, Dave is setting me up with a hangboard routine. What a time to be alive! :)
Haha, also just got the book:)
Same here!
I've enjoyed this video! I made my own timer using Seconds Pro so I could zone out to music or podcasts. For anyone who just wants the timing breakdowns:
30m MacLeod Hangboard Routine
WARMUP
Jug
10s h
1m r
10s h
1m r
5-6 pullups
1m r
5-6 pullups
1m r
21mm
10s chisel
1m r
10s half crimp
1m r
10s 3-finger-drag
1m r
14mm
10s half crimp
2m r
WORKING SETS: Weighted to failure @ 10 seconds
10s chisel
2m r
10s chisel
2m r
10s chisel
2m r
10s half crimp
2m r
10s half crimp
2m r
10s half crimp
2m r
10s 3-finger drag
2m r
10s 3-finger drag
2m r
10s 3-finger drag
1m r
Jug
5-6 pullups
Thanks Dave MacLeod!
cheers
No offense to Tom Randall’s six minute abs, but this is my favorite “follow along” workout. In fact, it’s now my favorite training video period. Appreciate the stories during the tests and all the effort it must have take to create this. Truly visionary! Thanks!
Dave is seriously my favorite UA-camr. Wish he were my dad with the supportive presence he brings to his content. Plus he has waaaaaaaay cooler stories
Best video on hangboarding I've seen. I'm a 63 year-old ex-bumbly/ nowadays mainly rambler and Dave has inspired me to get my unused fingerboard from the garage and install it in my dining room doorway :-)
As comprehensive as you'd expect. I really appreciate Dave laying out the pretty much complete path to maximising every aspect of climbing performance on the internet, for free.
Amen!
I just finished the workout following along and I just want to say a massive thank you for all of the effort that went into writing shooting and editing this video. I will surely return to watch it more often
This is by far the most cohesive and engaging video. I was researching protocols and just ended up doing a hangboard session with you, thank you!
Brilliant. Would LOVE a whole series of hangboard workouts. Love the follow-along format. Thanks!
Thanks Dave, really useful to me, hope to see you again in Ireland sometime in the future
I’ve been following this for a few months now.
Would love to see an advanced hangboard follow along!
Just do closer to your max weight. He did this routine to climb 9a so i don't think its not advanced lol
This is hands down the best hang boarding video out there
Amazing format, would love to see more like this. It was just good fun following along and getting some great climbing stories in-between.
I bought a very similar fingerboard and started doing this routine in the morning and climbing same day late afternoon, 3 days per week. Though I couldn't quite match the standard of hangs- maybe only around 6 seconds without any added weight on a 23mm edge, I still managed to increase my grade at the climbing wall within a week. It even felt relatively easy! I can't thank you enough 🙂
The production value of this is outstanding! Having all the different camera angles showing off the board, the upcoming exercise, and your body position were very helpful. The examples of applying the training to real outdoor climbs was also very well done!
Good soundtrack today! Good to see my current self-made plan is roughly similar to this 💪
Hi Dave, I don't know if you've seen it but I recently heard the nugget climbing podcast episode Dan Varian. He really spoke about individual testing of fingers and activating "lazy" fingers in key grip types and stuff.
If you've not heard it I would really recommend, and if you have hearing your take or analysis on the theory stuff would be super interesting.
Thanks for quality content as always !!
Awesome job Dave!! Totally love how you share your stories between sets. I started climbing in the mid 90's when we got strong experimenting with all kinds of methods & drawing inspiration from vids such as "The Real Thing", which we passed around friends like some forbidden treasure. 😆 Now as I approach 50, I'm struggling just to slow down the decline in power & tendon/joint integrity, which worsened after Covid earlier this year. I'm not sure what the best training protocol should be for me right now but seeing you pushing so hard even in your 40s has given me a lot of positive motivation to keep on trying. Keep on doing your stuff Dave cause its very much appreciated!!
Unless you are right up against your genetic limits for physical form, there's no issue with reversing any decline which is due in large part to training rather than age. Of course training choices change a little with age, but absolutely no reason to dial down goals unless you are favouring some other lifestyle choice over physical performance and training.
Amazing, and the hot drink icon for rest was the best touch haha
Dave, the editing of this video was next level! Thought through perfectly and in a very creative fashion.
Have some urgent work to do which I am NOT looking fwd to and CANNOT WAIT to try this as my reward!! SERIOUSLY excited.
Thanks so much for this. Really helped getting me off the sofa and onto the board.
Dave, as a punter who can barely scrape through a 5.12 I truly appreciate this simple program to maybe make my dreams come true. You are a huge benefit to this community, thank you!
Hi Dave,
Just finished your routine to start 2023 (writting that with chalky fingers), thanks for sharing all those inofs! It could be great to have a ring workout follow along as well!
Happy new year to everybody,
Cheers from Bretagne, France!
Really appreciate this kind of format. Hope to see again contents such useful as this one.
I think this was incredibly good, all the small stories in the 2‘ breaks made it so lovely
This is my new protocol now
Thank you dave!
Just finished my 8th session of this workout so I figured some patronising is in order.
Thanks man!
I really like this routine, I’ve been following it at least once to twice a week for about a year now. Thank you, Dave!
Thanks
Sweet, gonna try your routine next time I have hangboard workout.
¡Gracias!
This one is standing the test of time for me. Perfect length of time and adaptable with weights. Many thanks 🙏
By far, the best follow along Hangboard video. Many thanks
thanks for doing this, Sir! feels like having a training buddy in my own home! subscribed.
Thanks! You're a legend Dave :)
Thanks Ollie!
This is brilliant Dave. Thank you!
Thanks!
Wow, this is so helpful. A nice and simple routine, that i can add to my usual training. I'm certainly going to visit this video plenty more in the future!
PS:
I've been following your content almost ever since i started climbing 3 years ago. And your content is definitely the most informative for me. I learned so much from it not only about climbing, but also about the mental approach and how to manage all this training in a sustainable way with all the other responsibilities of life.
Just want to thank you for that! 👍
Thank you so much Dave, it's amazing how much you've helped me and my climbing over the years (and so many others I'm sure). From getting more aware of nutrition and following keto for a couple of years, to this video, which is just invaluable. Really appreciate it. Thanks mate.
Great follow along! Would love to see a campus board follow along next..
Mid roll ads on follow along videos can be very frustrating, especially when they’re mid hang! I appreciate there’s nothing you can do about this though.
Yes, I bet. You could use UA-cam premium (I have this and like it). Alternatively, I have been thinking of producing a series of follow along workouts as paid downloads which of course would be as free. Do you think that would be preferable?
The only way this could have been better is if Dave had come over to my house and asked me if he could come in and coach me through a good simple finger board workout😂
Loved the climbing stories and videos in the resting phases of the work out.
I will definitely send this to all my beginner/intermediate climbing friends!
I was think you also could consider a minimal-narration version for repeat users of this video as a regular workout template. Just calm background music with minimalistic instructions and motivational "psyche".
I could see people following something like this 2-3x/week, but it would probably get a little awkward hearing the same exact stories every time. (I do love the stories though.)
But couldn't you simply do that yourself by just turning off the audio and using your own? ;)
@@Hopesfallout no, it's still really helpful to have him say what you're doing, and say little things like (okay get ready to pull really hard).
I followed a yoga follow-along video every day for months and months during quarantine. Some verbal instructions are really helpful.
@@codyheiner3636 Fair enough.
This video is so good...well done! Watched it this morning, then watched it again after work....it's so good...editing is improving so much...a climber's video...thanks man!
This is awesome Dave thank you, slow and stready turning up the heat. I like it, no wonder i was getting injured in the past
This is great. I'd really love to see a similar style video for injury prevention/antagonist/resistance training exercises.
Thanks for this Dave. I have switched to this session and have already made a little progress, which is especially pleasing as I’m even older than you!
Really enjoyed that video, Dave. Full of useful information.
My problem is thinking "I cant hang today because tomorrow I'm doing ....... I'll hang board the day after". Then the week has gone and I've not done anything. Guess I need to make it more of a priority and your videos help me do that.
You can do it every climbing session, after warmup, right before doing hard stuff. Also: Training phases are about training, not max performance.
This is great! Really would be stoked on a workout a next level up in difficulty.
This is great, thank you! An in depth video for beginning hangboarding on determining what weights one should add and how to determine your max would be great as well.
Brilliant, thanks Dave. Would be great to have a similar vid for campusing.
Love this one Dave, thank you, v motivating to get the training done.
My handboard and beastmaker micros just arrived today. What excellent timing
Great video. Feel like I’ve got good company for my hangboard session. Would love a series of these. Even if the routine was the same, bits of projects, some history and some trademark wisdom.
this is awesome! maybe add in other workout follow alongs as well. Like a campus Follow along, 4x4s, ect.....
Great video, which I followed this evening and it worked great. I found the stories and explaining in-between really good as I find one of the off puts for me is time in between. I definitely helps to have something interesting to watch/listen to encourage the decent rest.
2nd session of the week done! Great video and great routine.
Finished session #1 of week 2.
This video could not have come at a better time!!
What a brilliant video. Thank you for this
Great video and as usual simple and worthwhile advices!! It will be great if you could make a video about a max strength and endurance in the board and also explain how and when to do that...thanks Dave for sharing you knowledge!!
Thanks for this nice routine! Got covid since yesterday and really wanted to climb today. Perfect routine for covid quarantaine and to top it off did some extra weighted pull ups at the end.
Thanks for the nice video!❤️
Absolutely brilliant, thank you Dave, I've been searching for a video like this.
Tack!
Thank you!
Great follow along video!❤
Interesting to learn about Chisel grip vs Half crimp... The variation is quite smaller... Thanks for explaining the difference... So it seems that most often my half crimp hanging are in fact chisel grip and not proper half crimp.
Can you help to elaborate the difference on mechanic between the 2 grip types, and advantage/disadvantage of either. Thank You
What an awesome video.
There should be more videos like this one. It’s very helpful for beginners/intermediates like me.
Amazing workout and really good intermissions 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for this, i loved it!!
Really useful video, going though every step. Just the right kick I needed to start taking hangboarding more seriously!
Cheers Dave, another good one. Hope you release soon the video about plant based diet and climbing performance you hinted in the keto one.
Great idea! Looking forward to more advanced follow alongs!
love this format!
Amazing man, wanted to see if you can post up a video that just shows all the possible grips to train on a hangboard
amazing video dave....just what i needed! Advanced hangboard routine next!!!!
Please Dave make another one of these, or several, even!
Awesome video Dave! A couple things I'd love to see: how you specifically determined your working weight (does it require a pre-session or can it be done just before this one?) and maybe a guide to the different grip types in your typically highly detailed and nuanced style (chisel, half crimp, thumb over etc) 🙂
Great video Dave, really enjoyed following along! I'd really like more like this
Watching this in the train 😅 but I really like this. Most video’s or training apps got a pretty good fingerboard workout, but they just tell you to warm up and warm up your fingers properly. How could an amateur / beginner know what a proper finger warmup looks like?
Thanks for showing us.
hi Dave! I have been doing this routine for about 2 years and have seen massive improvement both on the hangboard (up to 160% bodyweight from 100% at first) and in my climbing. How about making another hangboard video, for moderate to advanced climbers (instead of beginner to moderate as you state here) ? Thanks for your hard work and valuable insights! :D
This is awesomeness to the max!
Thanks for making this.
Awesome! I just started doing the hangboard/circuit routine you did in your story. Aiming for 100 sessions like you said someone else did, and I'm 14 in. Still seeing improvements with each session
Nice video this! Definitely going to try this out for my next session! For future editing though I might suggest having the music/speech balance a wee bit more in favour for the speech. Wanted to turn the volume down every time the music came on. Otherwise real solid! 👍
Great to follow this. One interesting thing i discovered is i cant half crimp a beastmaker 20mm or above hole, my knuckles get in the way. Your rail is better in that respect. Turns out my 3 finger drag is way stronger than my crimp, wierd.
Thank you Dave
Thanks for another great video Dave, the stories fit in perfectly with my lunch break hang!
Love the format! Looking forward to more workouts 😊
Thank you Dave! So happy to be around in a time when videos like this from one of the world's best are so easily accessible. Do you do a different session on the finger board for endurance or would you just train that by climbing? Looking to decrease the arm pump on harder lead routes!
Quality, informative content as always. Thanks for all you do, Dave.
Loved this! Please do more of these ❤
Really excellent video Dave, thanks!
Excellent video ! Had the most enjoyable fingerboard routine :)
If you could do a similar thing with a campus board that would be very helpful !
Fantastic video!
can you make a other fingerboard routine for intermidiate to advanced climbers?
Thanks so much, Dave. This is wonderful and massively appreciated! Thank you 😊😊
My crimp and Three-finger drag are way weaker than my Chisel grip. I wonder if it’s not worth putting those two first in the session to prioritise their development.
Thank you, the format is motivating, engaging, informative and entertaining. In short, super!
In another climbing channel (hard is easy) they pass on one piece of advice from the coaches at Lattice, that is when beginning at hangboarding, it might be good to aim for 15 seconds failure load, so as to allow for connective tissues adaptation as you gain strength. What's your take on it?
Anyways, thanks again. Your channel has often encouraged me to both try my hardest and have fun, regardless of the grade I can achieve. I'm grateful!
What's the best way to progress on fingerboard training since there are so many possibilities? You can add weight, you can go to smaller edges, you can use one hand, you can add more sets, hang for longer, rest for less time...
thx Dave for that video! By the way "9 out of ten climbers" is awsome!
However there is a point that confuse me a bit, as intermediate climber. You are saying that climbers should rather focus on learning technique by practiciing climbing ( or drills), and should not substract some of their climbing time by some training. On the other hand you are emphasizing on the importance of the finger strengh and the recovery time between climbs. So if I "boulder a a training" then I cannot really have time (or strengh) for a dedicated fingerboard session. Including it in the boulderings sessions days could work but that means cutting on the climbing (less movement)
Loved the video! It would be great if you could comment on the pros and cons of balling up your pinker finger during a three finger drag. When I ball mine up it feels like something is going to tear so I keep the first segment of the pinkie parallel to the ring finger. Cheers
good tunes. Thanks for the info :)
Love this!!
your warm up is more than my work out. but I'm just starting out. I have to take off weight on the 3 finger drags