Hey man great pointers I designed the all down4sound amplifiers. I just wanna tell you you most amplifiers don’t offer bandpass that’s the 1x & 10x switch. This is the best video I’ve seen on the Internet regarding how to tune an app in a long time grade job if you need anything reach out
Oh shit!!! Whoa man much respect!! Thanks for doing what you do man, I love the features on these. And that’s a really big compliment, especially coming from you. I really appreciate you taking the time to check it out and leave feedback man, your word carries weight out here! Have a great one!
@@DaBadNewzi just subbed... ditto... Great video you def did your research and enjoy this. How old are you? Children be over 25... Well keep up the good work, do what you do bud!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks man! I really appreciate the sub! And I DO really enjoy this stuff, it’s part of my career and my life at this point! And as for my age, I’ll be 35 next month.
Well I definitely appreciate the honor of the quick sub! And thank you for the acknowledgment. I really wanted this one to be pretty informative, so that feedback means a lot.
You are amazing. Always had an interest in speakers and amps, primarily analog electronics. Your channel explains this stuff in an easy to understand way. Thank you.
Bro, you always have great content. I am now late going to bed because I’m watching this is you that’s the bad news the good news is I learned how to tune my channel amplifier.🎉😂
Great video. Very detailed, and loved it when you would hold your sub over your shoulder with a big grin. That’s classic. Keep the videos coming. Thanks
That’s that Bass Smile! Thanks for noticing! And thank you for checking it out and leaving feedback, I really appreciate it, and comments like that are super motivating.
@@DaBadNewz …Thats what I was thinking when you explained matching the amps wave length to the head unit’s wave length with the corresponding diagrams and using a volt meter to dial in your amplifier’s volume and crossover. There are quite a few reputable car audio channels that most of us know but none of them ever explained car audio in the same dynamic way you have, plus the diagrams and effects to relate the message, you made a very cohesive video🤙. So check it out.. unboxing videos right? But… instead of that basic “Show & tell” that every body is doing, you do the traditional unboxing, and then you hit them with the “KNOWLEDGE“🧠 I see a lot of room for creativity.
Hey man that's a great idea! I HAVE been trying to think of different ways to do them, and that would definitely help people understand what gear they might want. I honestly really appreciate the suggestion man! You might just see some of that get incorporated real soon. And BIG THANKS for the feedback man! It means a lot cuz I was really trying to make this one be informative and helpful to folks.
Hey bro great job 💯💪. I've been waiting for this video from you 🙏. You explained it very well, and in detail 💯🔊. Thanks again for the help. Keep doing what you're doing bro 💪 💯💯🙏🙏
i cant say enough good things about this video!!! well done bad news!! if more people would do these kinds of videos that actually help new installers people wouldnt blow there shit up. you are the ish my dude!!! from a fellow dago boy!!!
Thanks man! I’m just trying to put out the videos that would have helped me along the way. Thanks for the feedback man, that shit really helps motivate me! Big SD!
Great video man! New subscriber!! Bro does that amp comes with a cooling fan? I noticed the smaller jp234 comes with one but I don't see a cooling fan on the website in the JP284. Thanks!
Hey Nice video brotha👌🏽, I was wondering how to do the math on what i’m running, Ch1: 4 speakers at 1 ohm Ch2: 4 speakers at 1 ohm Ch3: 2 speakers at 2 ohm Ch4: 2 speakers are 2 ohm I have a factory radio as of right now but am running a Sundown sfb500 4 channel.
When using multiple speakers on a single channel, the only real difference is that you have to add those speakers together so you can think about the total load on the amp as if was a single speaker. (Since an amp doesn't know the difference between a single speaker or a bunch of them) As long as all the speakers on a particular channel are the same, the numbers are pretty straightforward. You would add the total RMS that each channel is going to need (or use 500 if the total is higher than that, since that's your amp's max), and then calculate it like I did. Example: (using made up numbers for easy math) Ch1 and 2: 100 rms speakers x 4 = 400rms. 400rms x 1 ohm = 400. Square root of 400 is 20. So for channel 1 and 2 you would want 20V AC on your multimeter (22.36 for 500 watts) If all 12 speakers are the same, channels 3 and 4 would actually have the same gain as 1 and 2, since it's half the ohm load and half the power. Hope this helps! Let me know if you need any more info
Only thing I messaged D4S about this months ago and they said only either the hpf switch can be ON or the lpf switch can be ON, apparently whoever messaged me back said one has to be off so I turned off my Lpf. Have you had any issues having both switches on? Maybe whoever messaged me back just didn’t know much about them
Really? That’s super weird! I don’t think I’ve had any issues with both switches being on, and I can definitely tell that they are both working. Idk if the filters are right on the money where they say they’re going to be, but it definitely sounds like I’m getting both filters to work. Now you’re making me wanna do some more testing!
@@DaBadNewz Bro, if the HU doesn't have OFF option on Subwoofer LPF, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125hz, is it just leave at lower freq 50 or pass through 125hz..... on the Sub Amp set up at 80hz
@@ceejaycjmusic it will depend where your door speakers (or mid-bass if you have them) pick up the frequency range. Most of the time 80-125 is where you want, but honestly, just play around with it and see which one sounds the best. At the end of the day, that's all that matters, if it sounds good, it IS good. Good luck man!
Hey Bro, I dig all of your videos! Hopefully you can help me out. I bought four d4s-65 v2 with two d4s jfx tweeters. I also bought the Amp under your's. D4s Jp234 to power all of it. Mind you I also have 2 rear deck speakers, but those are already installed. My question is how do I wire each door to the Amp?I'm going to have two 4ohm 65v2s on each door plus a 4ohm tweeter with a bass blocker on each door. The 65v2s can take 200 rms each and each tweeter 50 Watts rms. Also are their any settings I have to change on the Amp, like the hp lf x1 x10 setting. I didn't really understand that part of your video. Thanks in advance 🙏
Oh yea we gonna have to clear up the video if that's the case! You definitely gonna need to revisit the filter part. So me, I would power the 6.5s off channel 1 and 2, with the HPF at 120 and LPF based on wherever your tweeters pick up the signal. I would then power the tweeters off channel 3 and 4 with the LPF off and the HPF at whatever frequency your tweeters are made for (usually somewhere around 5kHz). Basically, you want your tweeters to stop where the 6.5s start (frequency wise). Hope that helps man!
Oh wow! You’re absolutely right! I mentioned everything around the clip light, but never actually included the clip light in the explanation. Definitely a mistake on my part that I will have to come back to! But in the mean time: The clip light is supposed to indicate when the signal coming from the head unit is too high (because of the gain setting on the amp). I kind of touched on this when I showed the illustration of the signal on the left side of the screen getting larger to match the signal on the right (around 3:56). Let’s call the signal on the right the “max.” If the signal on the left had kept growing it would reach the point where the signal was no longer round at the peaks because it would be past the “max,” which would put a flat top on that perfectly round wave. That flat top is the clipping, and the amp should be able to detect it. The main reason I neglected to include this info, is because tuning the amp the way I have described will eliminate the need to worry about clipping, (but I absolutely agree it would have been useful information to include). Thanks for reminding me to cover that in the future! Hope that answers your question
Me too! It was a 96 Deville with 2 Rockford T2 12s (the old metal face ones) on their T2500. (Thanks for your comment! That engagement lets UA-cam know to continue spreading my video to new people and helps grow the channel)
@@DaBadNewz there are a lot of whack Car audio channels Example ( Bassdad lol) but you are honestly in my favs with Smd Exo and Soundman bro keep doing what ya doing buddy ...
Hey man i have the same 4 speakers running on a Skar Audio RP-150.4AB. What would you recommed the settings to be at? My HPF is 20hz-5kHz and LPF is 50hz-500hz. Gain has no numbers lol. Thanks in advance
If you have the same Arnolds, they perform best between 150-12k, but where you put those filters is going to depend on if you have tweeters, midbass, or any other speakers. I have mine set at 150 for now, but will be changing them to 250 or even 350 when I install my midbass. With the High filter at about 8k. As far as gain, that's where you're gonna have to follow the video. If you don't have a multimeter, you can do it old school by bumpin something that has lots of midrange/vocals/etc, turning your head unit to about 75-80% of the full volume, and adjust the gain on the amp until you hear the speakers start to distort, then dial it back just a tiny amount so it sounds clean again. (doing it this way isn't perfect, but it'll get you in the area of where you trying to go. You might have to readjust it a lil bit after hearing more music). Good luck man! if you have any more questions don't hesitate to reach out
there's a mini Bass Meet on the 11th and the bigger one on the 18th. They go down at the Mission Bay South Shores Boat Launch. Check out ua-cam.com/video/bsznCarW-D4/v-deo.html for directions and links to the San Diego Basshead group (you don't have to have a FB to see the page). Hope to see you out there!
It would be the same process as in this video. The only differences are that you would be using a 40Hz test track instead of 1kHz, and your filters would be set for a sub instead of mid-range (depends on your setup, but usually 30Hz~100Hz). On most amps the low filter is called the "subsonic" or something like that. For the gain it's the same as the video: total RMS x Ohm load. Then find the square root of that number. Looks like those subs are 1700 RMS, since you have 2 = 3400 RMS. (3400 RMS * 2 Ohms)= 6800. Square root of 6800 is 82.46. So you would be looking for 82.46 on your multimeter. (This is assuming you were trying to feed those subs RMS. If you wanted to give them a lil more juice, just figure out how much and use that number).
I don’t really understand how to set the hpf/lpf on the amp. It’s a jp234. I’m running 4 ds18 6x9, 2 ds18 6.5, 2 ds18 tweeters and 2 6.5 skar speakers in my grill
@GrandNash-bk2kq how do you have everything wired up? You wanna set you filter based on what your speakers are made for, but that only works if all the speakers on that channel need the same filters.
Hey man I got a question, these D4S amps are SPL class but can they replace an AB class if used with SQ in-dash speakers? I’m just seeing so much about D4S that I’m debating, but I’m more into audio for SQ. If I’m using all alpine gear, what can I expect replacing a 4ch alpine with a 4ch D4S?
I would definitely think so. I have a fairly controversial opinion on the matter: the gear doesn’t matter as much as the install. Not to say it doesn’t matter at all, but after a certain $ amount the difference becomes negligible (generally speaking). But honestly, assuming similar power specs, I wouldn’t see much reason to switch unless you wanted a specific feature or something. These amps still have a THD of >0.1%, and in a car, that’s better than the listening environment can even realistically support (because of road noise, the engine, and just the world around a moving car being naturally disruptive to a clean sound). In other words: Go for it if you want more power or specific features these amps have, but if yours has similar power, you’re probably not missing anything. Hope that helps!
@@DaBadNewz … ok🤔 we know that AB class amps run warm and in some cases hot but it’s due to all the components used for lossless sound. However we know that SPL amps like D4S can be a full range D class so it can run more efficiently and cooler so I understand that design. So now correct me if I’m wrong at any time but for example the JP34 purple is a class AB amp but are there any technical differences regarding its circuitry that makes it different from a traditional AB class amp that less experienced people would be familiar with? I mean (example) the amp switching to D class during extreme operating conditions to accommodate cooling efficiency? I just want to know how D4S is able to offer big watts at lower prices than their competitors.
Tbh I have no idea! I’m not aware of any special circuitry, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have it. I honestly don’t know all that much about the circuitry side of things. Definitely something interesting to look into though.
Damn I guess I should have included a link to some test tones! That will depend on how you listen to your music. If you primarily play off your phone, you can just search on spotify or youtube (not the best option, but if that’s how you listen anyway, it will cater your tune to your actual use). If you use mostly USBs or something directly connected to your head unit, then I would download from a reputable source (there are a bunch online, like from Audio Dynamics, just search “1khz test tone.” They will have a dB in the title (0, -5, -10, etc). I would use 0 for the safest option (wont risk any clipping), but sometimes -5 or -10 will get you more of the thump you want (just keep an eye/ear out for clipping)
That's going to depend on how you have them wired, and also what the specs for each speaker are, (if they're not all the same). The process is the same, you just need to do the math slightly different depending on how you wire everything up. What are they and how are you trying to run them?
@tafaudio since they’re all the same it’s pretty easy, looks like your channel 1 and 2 will be done just like mine. The only difference will be for channel 3 and 4 you will add the RMS together before multiplying by the combined Ohm load. Since those are 130 RMS, 2 of them would be 260 RMS. Multiply that by the Ohm load (2) and you get 520. Square root of 520 is 22.8, so that’s what you would look for on your multimeter. Hope that helps!
@@DaBadNewz so if im correct when i use the multimeter on ch1-2 im looking for 32.2 and when i use it for ch3-4 im looking for 22.8… im new to this lol
No actually both you would be looking for the same. On channel 1+2 you have 1 speaker at 4 ohms, which is actually the same as the 2 speakers at 2 ohms that are on 3+4 (as far as the amp is concerned). (130x4) vs (260x2). Same thing! Just make sure your amp can handle that power and ohm per channel and you should be good to go!
Hey man great pointers I designed the all down4sound amplifiers. I just wanna tell you you most amplifiers don’t offer bandpass that’s the 1x & 10x switch. This is the best video I’ve seen on the Internet regarding how to tune an app in a long time grade job if you need anything reach out
Oh shit!!! Whoa man much respect!! Thanks for doing what you do man, I love the features on these.
And that’s a really big compliment, especially coming from you. I really appreciate you taking the time to check it out and leave feedback man, your word carries weight out here!
Have a great one!
@@DaBadNewzi just subbed... ditto... Great video you def did your research and enjoy this. How old are you? Children be over 25... Well keep up the good work, do what you do bud!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks man! I really appreciate the sub! And I DO really enjoy this stuff, it’s part of my career and my life at this point!
And as for my age, I’ll be 35 next month.
@@DaBadNewzi was gonna comment on new video of your buddies car... But you have comments disabled
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 oh shit good lookin out! Definitely missed that one!
You simplified it and explained this better than I have ever heard anyone ever before. Amazing job!
Bro that’s a big ass compliment! Thanks man!
I really appreciate the feedback
Using Pro Q 3 or 2. Man of class
Been a fan for a long time! It just WORKS.
Somebody knows whats up!
Good News Everyone! More of DaBadNewz is here.
Let em know!
Bro, you were loud, clear and straight to the point. I would say this is the best amp tuning video, subbed.
I really appreciate that man! I’ll try and make sure I keep that high standard
One of the greatest UA-cam videos possibly.......ever. 😉
trying to come for Mr.Beast with this one lol
I rarely subscribe after 2 minutes of content but it don’t take much to acknowledge knowledge.
Well I definitely appreciate the honor of the quick sub! And thank you for the acknowledgment.
I really wanted this one to be pretty informative, so that feedback means a lot.
You are amazing. Always had an interest in speakers and amps, primarily analog electronics. Your channel explains this stuff in an easy to understand way. Thank you.
Thanks for that feedback! Really happy to know that people find my videos useful.
Bro, you always have great content. I am now late going to bed because I’m watching this is you that’s the bad news the good news is I learned how to tune my channel amplifier.🎉😂
Thanks man I really appreciate that feedback, I'm glad you learned something. But don't stay up too late, you can just watch more tomorrow!
Great video. Very detailed, and loved it when you would hold your sub over your shoulder with a big grin. That’s classic. Keep the videos coming. Thanks
That’s that Bass Smile! Thanks for noticing!
And thank you for checking it out and leaving feedback, I really appreciate it, and comments like that are super motivating.
Good points on all these controls on amps. It cleared up a lot questions I had about LPF and HPF filters.
Glad I could help man! You got any other questions feel free to hit me with em
Found you today and have been watching a few of your videos. You shared some amazing info, I had to subscribe. Love the way you approach the topic.
That’s awesome! I really appreciate that! I’m still trying to figure out how to make these videos so that feedback means a lot.
You got a good radio voice 👌
Hahaha thanks! I’ve actually heard that one before. (Makes me wish I had a decent idea for a podcast or something)
@@DaBadNewz …Thats what I was thinking when you explained matching the amps wave length to the head unit’s wave length with the corresponding diagrams and using a volt meter to dial in your amplifier’s volume and crossover. There are quite a few reputable car audio channels that most of us know but none of them ever explained car audio in the same dynamic way you have, plus the diagrams and effects to relate the message, you made a very cohesive video🤙. So check it out.. unboxing videos right? But… instead of that basic
“Show & tell” that every body is doing, you do the traditional unboxing, and then you hit them with the “KNOWLEDGE“🧠
I see a lot of room for creativity.
Hey man that's a great idea! I HAVE been trying to think of different ways to do them, and that would definitely help people understand what gear they might want. I honestly really appreciate the suggestion man! You might just see some of that get incorporated real soon.
And BIG THANKS for the feedback man! It means a lot cuz I was really trying to make this one be informative and helpful to folks.
Great video.
Thanks for the feedback man!
Great video and bro and I will be using your technique as soon as my AAK 180.4 gets here
Thanks man! Hope it works out smooth for you. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
@@DaBadNewz will do thanks bro
Low and high pass filters brake down 1:46 Setting the gain 6:21
Thanks for the notes! I definitely forgot those in the description
Man you came with it on this one bro. JAY Z status!
Good lookin out Kick!
Thanks for your helpful video. It was down to earth and straight up. More power to you 💪
Thanks for the feedback man! That’s exactly what I was aiming for so I’m glad to know it worked out.
this entrance sold me, I trust you
Hahaha I appreciate that! Hope you find the information useful!
Hey bro great job 💯💪. I've been waiting for this video from you 🙏. You explained it very well, and in detail 💯🔊. Thanks again for the help. Keep doing what you're doing bro 💪 💯💯🙏🙏
Hey man thanks for helping to inspire it! Your questions really helped me get my thoughts together.
i cant say enough good things about this video!!! well done bad news!! if more people would do these kinds of videos that actually help new installers people wouldnt blow there shit up. you are the ish my dude!!! from a fellow dago boy!!!
Thanks man! I’m just trying to put out the videos that would have helped me along the way.
Thanks for the feedback man, that shit really helps motivate me!
Big SD!
Great video man! New subscriber!! Bro does that amp comes with a cooling fan? I noticed the smaller jp234 comes with one but I don't see a cooling fan on the website in the JP284. Thanks!
Thanks man! I appreciate the sub! And nah no cooling fan on this one, just some vents in the acrylic on the back.
Great video!
Thanks a lot man, that really means a lot coming from you.
I appreciate you checking it out!
Appreciate tha vid bro keep em coming
Thanks man! Will do!
Hey Nice video brotha👌🏽, I was wondering how to do the math on what i’m running,
Ch1: 4 speakers at 1 ohm
Ch2: 4 speakers at 1 ohm
Ch3: 2 speakers at 2 ohm
Ch4: 2 speakers are 2 ohm
I have a factory radio as of right now but am running a Sundown sfb500 4 channel.
When using multiple speakers on a single channel, the only real difference is that you have to add those speakers together so you can think about the total load on the amp as if was a single speaker. (Since an amp doesn't know the difference between a single speaker or a bunch of them)
As long as all the speakers on a particular channel are the same, the numbers are pretty straightforward. You would add the total RMS that each channel is going to need (or use 500 if the total is higher than that, since that's your amp's max), and then calculate it like I did.
Example: (using made up numbers for easy math)
Ch1 and 2: 100 rms speakers x 4 = 400rms. 400rms x 1 ohm = 400. Square root of 400 is 20. So for channel 1 and 2 you would want 20V AC on your multimeter (22.36 for 500 watts)
If all 12 speakers are the same, channels 3 and 4 would actually have the same gain as 1 and 2, since it's half the ohm load and half the power.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you need any more info
Lots of valuable info,new subs
I appreciate that feedback, and thanks for checking it out!
Good video!
Thanks for checking it out!
Only thing I messaged D4S about this months ago and they said only either the hpf switch can be ON or the lpf switch can be ON, apparently whoever messaged me back said one has to be off so I turned off my Lpf. Have you had any issues having both switches on? Maybe whoever messaged me back just didn’t know much about them
Really? That’s super weird! I don’t think I’ve had any issues with both switches being on, and I can definitely tell that they are both working.
Idk if the filters are right on the money where they say they’re going to be, but it definitely sounds like I’m getting both filters to work.
Now you’re making me wanna do some more testing!
Thank you bro, for the video......
No problem at all man! If you got any questions during a tune, don't hesitate to reach out.
Thanks for checking it out!
@@DaBadNewz Bro, if the HU doesn't have OFF option on Subwoofer LPF, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125hz, is it just leave at lower freq 50 or pass through 125hz..... on the Sub Amp set up at 80hz
@@ceejaycjmusic it will depend where your door speakers (or mid-bass if you have them) pick up the frequency range.
Most of the time 80-125 is where you want, but honestly, just play around with it and see which one sounds the best.
At the end of the day, that's all that matters, if it sounds good, it IS good.
Good luck man!
@@DaBadNewz appreciate that, Thank you much.......
Hey Bro, I dig all of your videos! Hopefully you can help me out. I bought four d4s-65 v2 with two d4s jfx tweeters. I also bought the Amp under your's. D4s Jp234 to power all of it. Mind you I also have 2 rear deck speakers, but those are already installed. My question is how do I wire each door to the Amp?I'm going to have two 4ohm 65v2s on each door plus a 4ohm tweeter with a bass blocker on each door. The 65v2s can take 200 rms each and each tweeter 50 Watts rms. Also are their any settings I have to change on the Amp, like the hp lf x1 x10 setting. I didn't really understand that part of your video. Thanks in advance 🙏
Oh yea we gonna have to clear up the video if that's the case! You definitely gonna need to revisit the filter part.
So me, I would power the 6.5s off channel 1 and 2, with the HPF at 120 and LPF based on wherever your tweeters pick up the signal.
I would then power the tweeters off channel 3 and 4 with the LPF off and the HPF at whatever frequency your tweeters are made for (usually somewhere around 5kHz).
Basically, you want your tweeters to stop where the 6.5s start (frequency wise).
Hope that helps man!
@@DaBadNewz i appreciate you Bro! Just curious, will a 3 way passive crossover work with this also?
Yea of course! You basically treat the whole 3 way setup as a single speaker
Freaking let's go awesome video
Thanks man!
How does the clip light on these work why didn't you say anything about it?
Oh wow! You’re absolutely right! I mentioned everything around the clip light, but never actually included the clip light in the explanation. Definitely a mistake on my part that I will have to come back to!
But in the mean time:
The clip light is supposed to indicate when the signal coming from the head unit is too high (because of the gain setting on the amp). I kind of touched on this when I showed the illustration of the signal on the left side of the screen getting larger to match the signal on the right (around 3:56).
Let’s call the signal on the right the “max.” If the signal on the left had kept growing it would reach the point where the signal was no longer round at the peaks because it would be past the “max,” which would put a flat top on that perfectly round wave. That flat top is the clipping, and the amp should be able to detect it.
The main reason I neglected to include this info, is because tuning the amp the way I have described will eliminate the need to worry about clipping, (but I absolutely agree it would have been useful information to include).
Thanks for reminding me to cover that in the future!
Hope that answers your question
Got a new sub bro 😎 🔥
Oh yea? What you workin with?
I remember my first system
Me too! It was a 96 Deville with 2 Rockford T2 12s (the old metal face ones) on their T2500.
(Thanks for your comment! That engagement lets UA-cam know to continue spreading my video to new people and helps grow the channel)
Good stuff bro!
I appreciate that man!
@@DaBadNewz there are a lot of whack Car audio channels Example ( Bassdad lol) but you are honestly in my favs with Smd Exo and Soundman bro keep doing what ya doing buddy ...
That’s a really big honor to be mentioned with those dudes, idk if I deserve that yet, but I definitely appreciate that man
@@DaBadNewz as far as i am concerned you deserve it bro
@six9carolinas I really appreciate that man!
Hey man i have the same 4 speakers running on a Skar Audio RP-150.4AB. What would you recommed the settings to be at? My HPF is 20hz-5kHz and LPF is 50hz-500hz. Gain has no numbers lol. Thanks in advance
If you have the same Arnolds, they perform best between 150-12k, but where you put those filters is going to depend on if you have tweeters, midbass, or any other speakers. I have mine set at 150 for now, but will be changing them to 250 or even 350 when I install my midbass. With the High filter at about 8k.
As far as gain, that's where you're gonna have to follow the video.
If you don't have a multimeter, you can do it old school by bumpin something that has lots of midrange/vocals/etc, turning your head unit to about 75-80% of the full volume, and adjust the gain on the amp until you hear the speakers start to distort, then dial it back just a tiny amount so it sounds clean again.
(doing it this way isn't perfect, but it'll get you in the area of where you trying to go. You might have to readjust it a lil bit after hearing more music).
Good luck man! if you have any more questions don't hesitate to reach out
Awesome video. Subscribed
Thanks for the sub! I really appreciate that!
Wasup bro I don’t really have social media to follow you but is there any shows coming up here in sd?
there's a mini Bass Meet on the 11th and the bigger one on the 18th. They go down at the Mission Bay South Shores Boat Launch.
Check out ua-cam.com/video/bsznCarW-D4/v-deo.html for directions and links to the San Diego Basshead group (you don't have to have a FB to see the page).
Hope to see you out there!
Thank you
You’re very welcome! Happy to help!
great teaching nice
Thanks for the feedback! Hope it was useful
@@DaBadNewz oh yeah! very
Ayeee peso pluma 🇲🇽
You know whats up!
Hey how you set the bass amp for 2 15s power acoustik mofo 152x I wired them at 4ohm on a power acoustik 8k
I am new to the car audio
It would be the same process as in this video. The only differences are that you would be using a 40Hz test track instead of 1kHz, and your filters would be set for a sub instead of mid-range (depends on your setup, but usually 30Hz~100Hz). On most amps the low filter is called the "subsonic" or something like that.
For the gain it's the same as the video: total RMS x Ohm load. Then find the square root of that number.
Looks like those subs are 1700 RMS, since you have 2 = 3400 RMS. (3400 RMS * 2 Ohms)= 6800.
Square root of 6800 is 82.46. So you would be looking for 82.46 on your multimeter.
(This is assuming you were trying to feed those subs RMS. If you wanted to give them a lil more juice, just figure out how much and use that number).
All good man! Hope that helps! let me know if you have any other questions!
Good luck on your build!
I have no clue what I’m doing I still need help with tuning my amp
Which part are you having an issue with?
I don’t really understand how to set the hpf/lpf on the amp. It’s a jp234. I’m running 4 ds18 6x9, 2 ds18 6.5, 2 ds18 tweeters and 2 6.5 skar speakers in my grill
@GrandNash-bk2kq how do you have everything wired up? You wanna set you filter based on what your speakers are made for, but that only works if all the speakers on that channel need the same filters.
What song is played at 8:06?
That’s Mt. Crushmore by Lettuce (good taste if you caught that short lil clip!)
Heck yeah!
‘preciate you!
@@DaBadNewz great video and like how you explained stuff.
Thanks! I really wanted to make something that broke it down so anyone could tune their own amp.
Thanks for the feedback!
Hey man I got a question, these D4S amps are SPL class but can they replace an AB class if used with SQ in-dash speakers? I’m just seeing so much about D4S that I’m debating, but I’m more into audio for SQ. If I’m using all alpine gear, what can I expect replacing a 4ch alpine with a 4ch D4S?
I would definitely think so. I have a fairly controversial opinion on the matter: the gear doesn’t matter as much as the install. Not to say it doesn’t matter at all, but after a certain $ amount the difference becomes negligible (generally speaking).
But honestly, assuming similar power specs, I wouldn’t see much reason to switch unless you wanted a specific feature or something.
These amps still have a THD of >0.1%, and in a car, that’s better than the listening environment can even realistically support (because of road noise, the engine, and just the world around a moving car being naturally disruptive to a clean sound).
In other words:
Go for it if you want more power or specific features these amps have, but if yours has similar power, you’re probably not missing anything.
Hope that helps!
Yes it helps. I had another question but it was too long so I’ll have to research. I’m
Sure I’ll find more answers within your channel vids😎
Hey if it’s a super in depth question, it might give me a good topic for another video, and that’s always welcome!
@@DaBadNewz … ok🤔 we know that AB class amps run warm and in some cases hot but it’s due to all the components used for lossless sound. However we know that SPL amps like D4S can be a full range D class so it can run more efficiently and cooler so I understand that design. So now correct me if I’m wrong at any time but for example the JP34 purple is a class AB amp but are there any technical differences regarding its circuitry that makes it different from a traditional AB class amp that less experienced people would be familiar with? I mean (example) the amp switching to D class during extreme operating conditions to accommodate cooling efficiency? I just want to know how D4S is able to offer big watts at lower prices than their competitors.
Tbh I have no idea! I’m not aware of any special circuitry, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have it.
I honestly don’t know all that much about the circuitry side of things. Definitely something interesting to look into though.
How do I inject the 1,000 hz ?
Damn I guess I should have included a link to some test tones!
That will depend on how you listen to your music. If you primarily play off your phone, you can just search on spotify or youtube (not the best option, but if that’s how you listen anyway, it will cater your tune to your actual use).
If you use mostly USBs or something directly connected to your head unit, then I would download from a reputable source (there are a bunch online, like from Audio Dynamics, just search “1khz test tone.”
They will have a dB in the title (0, -5, -10, etc). I would use 0 for the safest option (wont risk any clipping), but sometimes -5 or -10 will get you more of the thump you want (just keep an eye/ear out for clipping)
What if i have 6 speakers on a 4 channel?
That's going to depend on how you have them wired, and also what the specs for each speaker are, (if they're not all the same).
The process is the same, you just need to do the math slightly different depending on how you wire everything up.
What are they and how are you trying to run them?
@@DaBadNewz 6x AP-M61SE
Ch1 - 4ohm
Ch2 - 4ohm
Ch3 - 2ohm
Ch4 - 2ohm
@tafaudio since they’re all the same it’s pretty easy, looks like your channel 1 and 2 will be done just like mine.
The only difference will be for channel 3 and 4 you will add the RMS together before multiplying by the combined Ohm load.
Since those are 130 RMS, 2 of them would be 260 RMS. Multiply that by the Ohm load (2) and you get 520.
Square root of 520 is 22.8, so that’s what you would look for on your multimeter.
Hope that helps!
@@DaBadNewz so if im correct when i use the multimeter on ch1-2 im looking for 32.2 and when i use it for ch3-4 im looking for 22.8… im new to this lol
No actually both you would be looking for the same. On channel 1+2 you have 1 speaker at 4 ohms, which is actually the same as the 2 speakers at 2 ohms that are on 3+4 (as far as the amp is concerned).
(130x4) vs (260x2). Same thing!
Just make sure your amp can handle that power and ohm per channel and you should be good to go!
cholooooo
shiiiiit, if it bumps, it gets played!
@@DaBadNewzawesome
just what i needed. thanks.
No problem, happy to help!
Thanks for checking it out
Great video bro
Thanks man! I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!