My goal for this video was to provide information, a lot of people are trying to decide if they need SMD tools. There are ton of ways to set gain, it is OK to use the method that works best for you.
When you adjust the gain for distortion either for the smd or multimeter, did you move the crossover frequency for the lpf all the way up. My polk audio has a freq of 50hz-500hz on the knob and on hpf it's 20hz-400hz. Need to adjust my gain this weekend and while I know how to get the target voltage I don't know what to do to the frequency before I start moving the gain knob to PROPERLY reach the targeted voltage
nice video! out of all that, the MOST important thing you talked about was how everything in the chain starting from the beginning matters. I see a lot of lame video's on YT where someone is trying to "teach" people how to set gains with an O-scope and they are doing it completely wrong. "Just turn up the gain till you see (or hear) clipping" is not how you set gains. Head unit (or L.O.C if tapping in), DSP, crossovers etc, everything BEFORE the amps needs to be known first or it is all out the window. Also there is gain overlaps. Something completely ignored by these so called youtube "teachers". I have always told people, USE AN OSCOPE first. Learn it. Love it. USE IT RIGHT. Then get a DD-1 (for more accurate and simple results) once you feel like you are ready. It's the same process. (The DD-1+ Plus is a little different). But the standard DD-1 uses the same exact technique you would use if you had a scope. So no matter which one you choose, just do it correctly. Or turn all knobs to the right and jam on till you smell that smell. There is a right way and LOTS of wrong ways to do it. Thanks for the video it was a good watch :) Appreciate ya for that!
You make awesome stuff bro! My DD1 and CC1 are well worth the money. So then I got the hard case for them. And now I've got the TMM1 for the fans. Turns heads man. Badass stuff!!
I’m an owner of the DD-1+ and the original DD-1 HV, CC-1, IM-SG (first gen), AMM-1, and the VM-1 OM-1 and the TM-1. I also have a TPi meter/scope in my kit, a polarity tester and multiple connection options for any and every install need or tuning. I use the Liumy for work. For me, it’s the perfect travel set for on the road installs, audio monitoring, or just tinkering. From NY to CA, high heat, to cold weather, no cooked equipment, and everything is clean. Thanks DIY Audio Guy, and Thanks meade916 for the videos and tools. The audio world needs all your support to DIYR! (Do it yourself right.)
I use an oscilloscope with fft as that allows me to see the actual wave form and the harmonics being produced. Where I live a two channel oscilloscope with this function is a third of the price of one SMD device and can be used to read many other signals for other projects. You can add a current probe and do math to get real time power and impedance numbers.
steve meade makes money on people that think math is scary, and now they got a little blinky light for 300bux, and steve using scare tactics to preach how everyone's system is clipping, and if they keep letting it clip their subs will explode.
I think it's unfair too ues ones product and mass produced these units to sell at a very expensive price for what is a simple light the smd dd1 is good for what i does but Steve should be ashamed for over pricing a piece of equipment that only has a light no screen and advised everyone that they need he's product so he can continue too live out his expensive life style. I bought one because i too fell into the track . I repair and install and modified car audio and im a electrician as my job i been installing car audio since i was 12 and since then i love car audio i remember the real and fun reason the days of car audio and electronics and it's why i made my hobbie too learn it i will simply say dont believe the hype i uesd the tool that cost me up too 200 plus shipping with a cd and a blinking light knowed as the smd dd1 and i returned it the next day reset my gains in my system and too my ears i was more pleased with my sound again i noticed that my gains were a little lower than with tool . The car audio and sales is all about making money now . And selling cheap products made and deigned with cheap parts what does matter if it says made in usa with cheap parts from China. People stop making these con artists rich they over price there gear and boasting there worth all over the internet. Car audio was never about money it was about music and joy and products that were way better than todays junk for half the cost i should know i been repairing amps and electronics since i was 17 in fact my amps are modified and are old school Components cause i know how well they outperform todays way over priced junk back in the day you did get what you payed for.
You can use a scope to find clipping, and you can use a $80 calibrated mic to find distortion with free software. For the DIYer that's probably the way to go.
I sprung for a DD-1 about six months ago and I'm happy I did. I began my journey into car audio with a MTX1501D bought off a local Facebook group and have slowly continued to climb up to where I'm now running 6000 watts on strapped amps and backing it with lithium and a high output alternator. As you get into the more powerful and higher quality gear it becomes too expensive to risk doing it incorrectly. I've noticed my gain walks a little every few months from the vibration and a DD-1 is fast and simple enough that I can re-tune in a parking lot when something doesn't sound right. I definitely agree that for someone just starting out the SMD tools may be a little too out of reach and a cheaper alternative may be needed...just as long as it is done right. For those bitten by the bug and constantly wanting more though, you can't go wrong with the SMD line. Thanks for all the knowledge you've shared and for continuing to put videos like this out!
I use a mini oscilloscope and a multimeter to find the maximum my amp can go (5 chs) then I rely on my ears. I know up to what point I can raise it, it's just a matter of preference thereafter. I have noticed my amp mono section needs to be tuned in that way but the 4 ch output has a Max of 30v just like you've gone through.
25hz, One test you can also do when settings gains and tuning in conjunction with your ears, what I do is use my Oscilloscope as a visual guide of what my amps are doing with my sub/bass/mid bass/midrange/mid high/brightness frequencies and what ones clip for adjustments. Whatever clips, or is wasted energy and can be filtered out, or EQ’ed.
Hopefully more and more manufacturers will start including clip indicators on their products. Obviously we still need to check head unit outputs for distortion along with any other gear we put in the signal chain. But, simple clip lights on all amps would be enormously helpful. Very interesting and informative video Justin!👍
I’m a DIY guy myself. I have 2 vehicles with aftermarket stereos and some higher end equipment. I’m frequently tinkering and trying different things. I have a DD-1 for gains. It always works great and is super simple to operate. I have complete confidence in SMD products and will continue to use them.
This was a good watch. The distortion issue is one that I never had considered or taken much thought into before, so it was really interesting to see that demonstrated. Just due to being the type who likes to tinker, see how things work in depth, and get the absolute best value, I'll probably always have a love for scopes. But this video was great in how it presented and educated about the SMD tools, I have quite a bit more respect for the engineering behind those tools now. That compressor behavior is something I think I've only seen on pro audio gear before (with my very limited experience with pro stuff), so it was really interesting to see that on that little premade car enclosure. It makes me wonder how common that circuitry is on lower end gear, or if maybe it was just a once in a blue moon thing that some engineer thought was a good idea on that particular system. Anyways I really appreciate your content man, it's the thing I like seeing in the audio, and really any, community. We shouldn't get so caught up in what's "better" and "worse". Instead we should be educating each other on how to make the best of the gear we do have. That and of course, trying to stick to the facts of the situation is always the way to go. There's always more to learn. Thanks.
You said I was gonna want to watch the whole video, but you didn't say time after time after time again! You know you have the only channel I've even considered becoming a patron. Not going to lie I've very close to pushing the patron button 💯
I have one build but i still want to buy a DD1 not only to get my amp dialed in perfect but to help my friends who decide to get into car audio as well. We all know how the beginning stages of car audio goes and if i could help someone not blow thier amps or smoke thier subs id be happy
I too am like you, am in my 30s getting back into car audio, i use to "install" in my younger days, looking back im not super proud lol. Now that I'm older and better funded which leads to better tools and materials I can actually do professional level install, so far its just been doing my own stuff, I might take on side work in the future, but now that I have proper shop tools, and the knowledge and experience now to do it right, plus the technology and pricing is so much better these days, additionally guys like Justin and Steve sharing info, I love the hobby all over again. I have been wanting to get a few of the SMD products for a while, I think they are really cool, I just can't justify their cost at the moment for as much as I would use them, currently I'm using the O scope and DMM method, which is light years beyond how I use to set stuff lol. Thanks again Justin and Steve.
I certainly don't consider myself a pro. Hence the channel name DIY audio guy. But when I think about the rat's nest of wires that I had in my car back in the day, I've definitely gotten better.
The dd 1 one reminds me of my hp distortion analyzer. The scope isn't a distortion meter it's a wavemeter it does care about distortion. So it makes sense the dd1 will pick up distortion before its visible on the scope.
i have been building speakers for fun, since 87 when I was a schoolboy, I've made some good stuff in time but also made the worst sh....ever🤣🤣 but listening when setting gains by ear have never failed me, never burned any unit or amp... Steve Meade is one of my new idols in car audio, he's a genius and does things my way👌👌👌
If you train your ear it is a great tool. But a lot of people that set by ear have not done that. If you are ever listing to live music, and it sounds like crap, it is because the guy running the mixer in the back of the room has not trained their ear. (or the venue just sucks for audio)
@@DIYAudioGuy i don't like live music, i think it lacks quality, i like the bassdrum through the subs but not Moore than that... I've trained my ears since 87 and i put a finger in each ear and listen close to the bass... when I tune in the headunit I've always done as you also do and then i turn the gain on the amp for the woofer and set a mark aso for mid and treble.. and this is done with a original CD i use scorpions-passion rules the game for mid and treble and 80s pop/disco for the bass...sometimes hard rock.. some streaming are okay but most of it is too compressed and has no quality... (one day i will try to connect my vinyl record player and listen to that, just for fun 😊)
The installaton of my Head unit Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX and the Pioneer GM-E360X4 has been a long road to say the least. I got the Head unit for 100 dollars off of Facebook Market Place with the 1 hour ride to and from the sellers location makes it a good price and good value. This will replace my stock unit in my 2013 Chevy Tahoe. The Amp was also picked up on Facebook Market Place and was 100 dollars also. This amp is a nightmare that I have been having over and over again for the last 2 months. It is going back on the market tomorrow and upon watching your channel I am better equipped to make the right choice for my Budget. Cheap and Dirty but one mam's cast off is anothers treasure. I really need a good installaton video as this is the most time and money pit as my electrical and fabracaton skills aver at a novice level and my wife would like the seats put back in the Tahoe asap. Can you recommend a video that will better deal with the pitfalls and shortcuts that a person in my sisutation should watch. Bingo Starr Great channel best one I have come across in the past year by far. Thanks for your clear and well thought out presentation.
Awesome video! Steve Meades equipment IS the best available to those who know. I don’t own any myself but I do have access to most of it and rely on it for every customer.
When I was younger I did it by ear 👂 but now that I have some education with electrical and using O-Scopes it's a basic understanding of how AC works and what many people forget is different frequencies have different wave forms and time periods with a good O-scope you can measure multiple things at once I believe you can't do that with The DD1? I really don't believe it's a bad tool at all but the cost per usage is what I look at when buying a tool to do a job, If I bought a dd1 it's only for testing and tuning amplifiers with an oscope it has many usagages not just car amplifiers so would I buy one nope 🙅 I will stick to what I was trained on
Thanks for this nice informative video… just a little concern, please stop switch scene between the scope and your postur, too often. It gets me dizzy, would keeping up with your voice. Because I try to keep up with the scope detail view as well. 😊
This video is why I watch and subscribe to your channel. I may have different views on a few comments but we all get something different from the same pages of a book. I enjoy you topics and it contents. It is very imformative for those Novice whom just want to get louder within breaking the bank or destroying their gear due to lack of know-how.
My stereo OCDs caused me to get both, The DD-1 works and does exactly what you want it to. You're kinda paying more money for the product that is easier to use without having to think. If you're on a budget, The O scope is more than adequate, you just have to know what you're looking at (like your examples). I like that the O scope gives you voltage at the same time. Ears can work.. You can for sure hear exactly when the wave clips with your ear, the tone changes. You just need a way to attenuate the signal so you don't blow your ears out. Example: find where the head unit clips by turning amp gain all the way down. you'll hear it change.
I have majority of the SMD tools and a few of the meters. Having the tools for the job, according to the sensitivity of the project, is important. The SMD Tools puts the bench size of each audio portion, into a travel size hand held tool. Justification of the cost, yeah it is a jump, but I say, their is no cost too high, when it comes to safety.
Great video and very informative, the only thing that comes to mind in regards to needing a multimeter to set gain is in a situation lets say where you have an amp that can put out 2 or 3 times the subwoofers rated power. You would have to have a multi-meter or an oscope so you can turn the gain up to where the sub is rated at. If a DD1 is used you can only see where the amp starts clipping but at that point the power that the sub is rated at would be double or tripled. I cant see a reason to buy a DD1 and or 1 or 2 of the other SMD audio tuning devices unless you own a shop and time is a factor as the DD1 can speed up setting the amp if it can be done that way vs. using an oscope. If somebody does car audio as a hobby and setting there amp once or twice a $100 oscope is more than enough to do the job.
That is a safety warning to let you know that the voltage has become dangerous. The scope should still work, just be careful so you don't get a nasty shock.
I personally own the SMD DD-1 and the CC-1 I recommend this product to any one that is diy i have done install for many years and I never had a complaint about how clean and clear it sounded i have gotten some folk that wanted me to use the SMD DD-1 AND CC-1 to there system and they where very pleased about there sound. so shout out to Steve Meade 💪🏼 it can be pricey but it is truly worth the buck!
You can find used SMD equipment on Ebay at great prices. I found my DD-1 just under 100 bucks. Now I have one. No longer a professional I shut down my store back in 2004. I just recently bought gear to have a nice system in my old Dakota and I just wanted the DD-1 to set my gain. It worked great and now I can either resell the DD-1 and possibly make a profit and have set gains, or just keep it and have it for life. I'm keeping mine and will set gains for friends if needed and have fun with it. As a former "pro" I only wished they had this back in my time. Great video as always.
Love the Channel.. quick question. I want to check to see where the volume on my iPhone distorts. Should I go with 3.5mm to RCA into the DD-1? Thanks Reason I’m asking is because I’m going to be using a DragonFly Black into the vehicle’s head unit for lossless Audio. And the DragonFly Black pushes out 1.2Volts… And that would probe my be the highest signal for Setting up the Gains on my amp.
Question 🙋🏽♂️: if your calculations says your subs take 80vrms but your distortion light comes on at 87vrms. Should you leave it at the 80vrms or to the 86vrms where the light is off when you back it down?
I tune by hear using a 1k or 40hz test tone. You cam hear the Amp tone starts to clip with the gain. As a pro installer I backed this up with a scope or dd1.
Great video. I finally invested in the DD1... more so for ease of use and efficiency. I've been using the Lummy but when I'm doing multiple amps on a boat or vehicle the DD1 sure saves me time and I know it's consistent.
I bought my first DD-1 nine years ago from Steve and used it to tune a similar Alpine amp available at that time I'd love to see the content you'd create with the IM/SG in your hands, another choice piece of kit.
5:49 I think the noise if it's the output of the amp, is not going to be filtered by the crossover at all. That is noise that the subwoofer will be seeing and playing. But that's still probably so quiet and high in frequency you won't ever notice it over the noise of the "wub wub" it's making. If it's above 10kHz then I doubt you'd ever hear it on a subwoofer ever. Thanks to this video I might hold off on getting a cheap o-scope as if it isn't telling me the whole story and could leave distortion on the table then It's not what I need. This also helps me feel like I'm actually accurate assuming my amp (NU3000DSP) is limited to 24/25v per channel before distortion jumps to very audible. Might not be clipping, but sounds very bad past that.
@@DIYAudioGuy Yeah. Curious what it takes on the scope to show the distortion. Like would you need a better scope or more practice with it to see it. Or what other device would it take to make it easy to detect the 1% distortion. Maybe some sort of RTA you can clamp onto the output of the amp that shows the frequencies and the harmonics. I think harmonics 40dB below the fundamental tone is 1% and 20dB below is 10% distortion. There's probably a device that could do that, but is it cheaper than the SMD tool? I need to look into this more now.
@@DIYAudioGuyQuestion? After you check your head unit for clean signal, flat eq, no bass boost etc. then make sure amp signal is clean, dsp signal clean I never see anyone show how the signal is after you set eq to your liking.
Can't you put the probes of the oscilloscope in the positive and negative speaker terminals on the amp like you do the dd1. To find the clipping from the headunit? And also set gains on the amp
Great video, thanks for sharing. Too funny, that Alpine M500 you talked about. My wife has had that amp for years powering her sub along with another Alpine for her midranges. She's had them for years and moved them to a number of cars. Last fall I upgraded them with an Audio Control D-5-1300. I made use of the DD1 as well during the install.
I wish he could bring the price down on them by like 30-50%. I think he would sell alot more at a lower price. I dont think cost of production is so high that its impossible to do that. I know SMD and D'amore are a higher quailty brand but for as good as these are why not make them more easily/cheaply available to tge car audio community. Never have used then but everyone irl and online always talk very highly of them.
He has been selling these things for over a decade, if he was priced to high he would have lowered it by now. I don think the price has ever gone up, so after inflation he has cut the price.
@DIYAudioGuy idk man, I understand that R&D has to get figured into the price of a tool like that. But when I can get very nice and advanced DMM and Oscopes and obd2 and Tech2 devices now for under $50 and the myriad of other technology tools that have come down in price drastically in the last decade you would think he could do something to cut the cost of manufacturing and pass that on to everyone. Especially being someone as passionate for the community as he seems. Not really trying to complain, just feel that they are over priced for as limited as each one of those devices are. Mind you if I wanted all 5-6 different tools offered it would cost close to 2 grand. The for the reply tho. Love Steve and what he does and your channel. Just my personal opinion on these tools
Good video. I have the original liumy. The backlight screen has gone out, but still works. I recently bought Dean's irta2, which I love to see the signal. I switch out between audio control, audison, my d'amore mono block and old skool Phoenix gold( original ti series) amps on a regular basis. Yes, the audio control has distortion detection built in, and the audison software has clip lights too. However, I still, after 30+ years in car audio, have a hard time with 'gain over lap'. I understand the reasoning why, but I need a tool to help with that. So, now it's a matter of dd1, or dd1+? I figure , if I'm going to buy these amps( which I doubt I'll ever stop doing) , then I need the right equipment to tune it, otherwise I've wasted my $$$ on the gear.
So I've I stalled an jvc kwm745 head unit paired with an audison sr5.600. I have looked at the out put of the head unit using an oscilloscope there no cliping at full voltage . Although I have sent the gain to matched the pre out I was thinking is there any reason why I can match it it to the speakers, which are audison rated to 100w rms @ 2ohm. Or set the gain as close to speaker max before oscilloscope shows cliping. What are ur thoughts
Most add a subwoofer folks just crank the gain, and don't know, nor care if it's distorting. If you actually care about the sound or care of your system the SMD tools are in my opinion the ONLY WAY TO GO! They are idiot proof. Great video and even better product! Absolutely worth the money!
alot of amp today has onboard clip indicator. how accurate is it onboard clip led? when clip light flashing, just turn down a bass knob. some song or music will clip, but some is clean. some more bass, but some is slow. some got soft clip, but some is clean 😅
the funny thing is I have friends that tuned their systems by ear or by a voltmeter. I did it by ear then I invested in a dd1 and boy was not only mine clipping but my friends were clipped worse than mine. I love my dd1 and my taramps smart3 clip led is the best thing that came to amps
Hey bro can you do a video on running 3 amplifiers? I’m planning on doing 2 4 channel amps to run my mids and highs and ofcourse the 3rd amp is for my subwoofer. Being that now days the tweeters are so high in watts as well as the 6x9s I want to run everything separately instead of wiring the tweeters to the 6x9’s. Also my car has a factory hole for an 8” subwoofer which I bought an 8” mid speaker for. Hence why I’m planning out 2 four channel amplifiers
I know my particular radio clips at 37 of 40. I set all my radio settings to where I like them. I set the amp for my highs first so I can hear any hiss or distortion. Then I moce on to the bass amp. Bass knob all the way up and amp gain all the way down. Radio set to volume 37. I play a 0db 40hz test tone. I hook a tweeter to the subwoofer channel. Slowly turn gain up to I hear a buzz in the tweeter. Then back it down to it stops. Basically quick explanation of how I set my system
@@DIYAudioGuy so I basically got completely ripped by Steve Meade saying I can set my gains with a tweeter just as well as his smd tool. I've seen multiple videos of people testing his smd tool against a tweeter with a capacitor to set gains on a bass amp. The red light on the smd comes on and off as the the buzz of the tweeter stops and starts. So what's your take on using a tweeter to set amp gains. Because he literally ripped into hard . Said I'm as smart as a box of nails 😂
I dropped a link to the video of him rippin into me. It's a bit rude and not very mature the way he spoke to me. I would expect a mature response from man like him. Anyways if u have time to go over the conversation that's in the link. I'd greatly appreciate it sir. Thanks and love your videos
@@DIYAudioGuy My mistake I meant the crossover frequency, let say I want to set the crossover on the Head Unit, so where should the cross be at at the amp?
From watching this MOST INFORMABLE video, there is not much difference btween the dd-1 and the oscilliscope, I will trust the oscilliscope beause it will keep under the clipping safely. Thank you very much!
So I got all that since I do small job on the side and work great but I got a problem setting up or adjusting the LOC from audio control the micro epicenter since it have a wide and a sweep. Should I used a scope for that
My JL amp has a red light around the gain screw and if that ever blinks it’s clipping. It’s my favorite thing I’ve ever seen on an amp 😂 I love this video though because it has so much info I didn’t know
When using a scope or dd1, what about amps stable at 4,2 & 1 ohm. The voltages will be different for each load. If you max an amp out with an oscilloscope or dd1 then throw a 1 ohm load on it, wouldn’t it be clipped and distorted? In other words does ohms law and the load the amplifier sees change anything here
The DD1/scope find the point where the amp is maxed out, without distorting. That does not change if the nominal impedance changes. If you use a multimeter + math you are setting the amp for a specific wattage, that may be less than maxed out, it may be more than maxed out.
I have the SMD DD-1, and the instruction booklet says to connect the red lead to a positive speaker output and black lead to negative speaker output. However, almost every video I’ve seen shows connecting the black lead to the amp’s ground. I bought mine just over a year ago. Do you know if this was a change in newer models?
@@DIYAudioGuy I appreciate the quick response. I assumed that there was a change sometime ago. Your video is the most recent I could find concerning this tool. Subbing now. Thanks again!
I unfortunately can’t afford all these amazing tools so I had to build my own clipping detector. A small 3inch speaker with a capacitor in-line you can tell when the amp clips
I have a question for you. If I DIY a pair of probes into a single RCA, can I use that on an oscilliscope to find the distortion of my headunit volume?
Yes, I did something like that. I picked up some cheap RCA to speaker wire pig tails and just crimped on a female spade terminal. You should be able to attach banana plugs to plug right into the scope.
Good day... I've bought a smd dd1, but it does not pick up any signal at all. Even with using the cd that came with the smd dd-1 Please help if possible
How about using a real oscilloscope like a Hewlett Packard 54602B like Sam is using at Barevids. I managed to get my hands on one on Ebay. It would be more of a real side by side comparison test pitting the Liumy against the HP vs the SMD.
Hi. Great video but unfortunately I don't understand everything 100 percent. I know that you do not want to recommend any of the products directly. I just want to set the clipping on my system. i could get the DD1 for the same price get like the lm2020 oscilloscope. could you just let me know which one is more accurate? or could you write me your feedback so that I can translate it myself? I just want to set the clipping and my apologies is which of the two is more accurate. I would be extremely women if you can answer me briefly, please. Thanks very much
@DIY Audio Guy I love your videos and had a few questions boggling my mind any answers or advice is much appreciated:) So I set my gains using a Oscilloscope and the wave was clean up to 40 volts on a skar rp.800d:) My first question is that I feel 40 volts is quite high for a 800 watt rms at 1 ohm amp so am I not understanding something correctly here? My second question is I realized by watching the soundwave that when I set my crossovers (subsonic=26hz/lpf=100hz) while playing the same 40hz-5db tone the voltage drops from the 40 volts to 25 volts. I'm just a little lost on why my voltage is changing so some clarification would be great cause that's quite the voltage drop. Last question, is it not good to set your gain with crossovers already set? I see everybody set crossovers after gain but I'm just curious if you can set crossovers then gain as long as you never touch the crossovers after setting the gain? Cause in my mind it makes sense that that would maximize voltage/performance:) I believe that with 25 volts after crossovers I'm only getting 625rms wattage out of the amp so if it needs boosted a bit I will:) thanks for any advice or clarification:) I also have the smd dd-1 and the smd clips at the same point as my Ocsilloscope so I believe everything is accurate:)
The crossover works by cutting voltage, the slope follows log10. So it is not a wall, it is a gradual roll off that gets steeper. What you're seeing is the top of that gradual roll-off. And yes, that does seem like a lot of volts for an 800 watt amplifier.
To set GAIN in AUTOSOUND... Ya set your MIDS and HIGHS/FULL RANGE system to its maximum range with no audible distortion. Typically ya can get 3/4 the volume on most DECKS then distortion sets in. NOTE the VOLUME NUMBER on the DECK, important. Once ya have your MIDS/HIGHS/FULL RANGE system tuned to its max clean output... THEN dial in yer SUB WOOFER AMP to sonically MATCH the mids and highs. Set your remote sub VOLUME KNOB to about HALF and adjust accordingly as SOME MUSIC is BASS HEAVY.... some music not so much so, Bass knob set at half way will afford the user a RANGE of adjustment needed depending on the music being played. Typically your MIDS/HIGHS/FULL RANGE system will distort LONG before your sub amp. OR... In "competition mode"... bust out the TOOLS mentioned in this video. I been installing AUTOSOUND better than 50 years now... I dont own TOOLS. Trained ear I suppose here. Good video!!! BDBD/2023
OH YEAH... AUTOSOUND???.... %99.999999999 "SQ"..... 0.000000001 "Competition"... Know your customers... Very few Competition types out there... as SQ goes... Nicer the car the better the SQ.. regardless of GEAR. BDBD/2023
I love content like this. I have a DD1 sitting in my Amazon cart right now. I wanna add this tool to my arsenal but was more interested in doing other aspects of car audio. Now I have people wanting me to help install, and I think im going to pull the trigger on this.
So, old video I know, but I am confused how it is considered distortion near the end when the o-scope is clearly showing no distortion? Sure the amp isn't working in the way we expect, but the signal looks aight. Admittedly I'm not at all familiar with the Liumi scope, but I mean... that's a clean looking sine. Granted I work on circuits that are designed to add distortion so..
@@DIYAudioGuy Now that you mention it, going back maybe I can see it now. I'd like to see it on a bigger scope that has more inputs so you can compare input to output , but I do get the reason why you like the Liumi. Quite a neat little unit. I would definitely agree that there is a limiter in place.
Hey there, I just found your channel and your videos and you are awesome! I really love your videos and how much you know about all that. So here's a tricky one for you: Try to get the maximum spl/lowest frequencies out of a custom build spare tire subwoofer!
@@DIYAudioGuy I didn't have the time to watch all of your videos (or at least the most important ones). How does the shape of a box affect the sound? And how do you match the box to a fitting sub (&passive)? I'm asking because these weirdly shaped cabinets for the sides inside the trunk exist. Thanks!!
Hey I need some help with an amp that I want to install without a head unit I want to use my phone to play music directly using rca phone adapter like you did on this video. but every time I power the amp it makes a loud pop on the speakers. How can I stop that from happening ?
hi, i am confused with the osci, when i try to turn the gain, the recommended voltage for a 2000 watts under 1.5 ohm is 54.7v. but the osci does not detech distortion until 65v. what gain should I set? the osci wave form that clips over 60v or the voltage calculator that is 54.7v?
With a multimeter you're not testing for clipping or distortion. You're just sitting the voltage to the level that will get you the power you are trying to produce. Sounds like you have an amplifier that can put out more than it's rated power, so if you use the scope you'll be getting more power.
I use an 4 channel Autel o scope that can plug into a pc or my Autel scan tool. Since it is designed for automotive diagnostics, the leads are long enough to keep from "laying in the trunk."
I have generally always overpowered my subwoofers. This makes the gain not that big of a deal to me. I just use a basic voltmeter and set the volts to match what the subs need. For instance, powering a 600 watt sub with a 1000 watt amplifier. If you were to set gain to the max before clipping on the amp, you would most likely blow the sub. No clipping worries for me. Although I have pushed amps back in the day to their max etc, where clipping would matter.
Very nice video again , i own the dd combo, but if i'm not mistaking when you read the instructions , thay say to play 40/1000hz tone when you try to find the max volum of your head unit , but when you set your amp they say somethinf about -5/-10 db 40 hz tone. So what s the right way ? 40 hz 0db , or -5/-10 ?
I love technical videos and I really enjoyed this. Thank you I still think the best advice in your video is - buy a decent brand, which solves a lot of problems.
Right, you don't have to drop big cash on the high-end stuff, just avoid the bottom of the barrel. Pioneer, for example, makes solid amps that are clean and do rated. Rockford Fosgate Prime amps even have a clip light.
Can use a tweeter whit a 2.2 uf capacitor too. You must to increase the gain. When the distortion appears,the tweeter will begin to sound. That's another way to calibrate it
Tried training my ear, ended up loosing hearing in my left ear😉. But seriously though, a lot can probably get it close by ear. However I don't trust it enough. The way I look at it I spend enough on amps and subs that it's not worth risking. I've tried by ear then followed with the dd1 and an amm1. Then check it with a dmm to see how far off I was. Next smd goodie I want is the signal generator. Thanks for sharing another excellent video
@DIY Audio Guy agreed. I still have to plug into the dm-608 dsp once in a while. I have the bt-24 bluetooth dealio but it's just easier to adjust thing on the laptop. It's really cool to stream hq files and bypass the head unit though. We live in a cool day n age with tons and tons of goodies to play with.
I might have posted this before, I know you were using the Dayton DSP. I found it will only take 1.5v in and only 2.3v out.. So use that information how you will. I've got an audiocontrol on the way. The helix is what I really want.
I remember seeing the post, not sure if I replied. I like the 408 but it is an entry-level DSP. I'm hoping to upgrade mine sometime in the near future!
I would recommend a analog oscope, the issue with new digital scopes is the latency in cheap oscopes. I use a Iwatsu 200mhz 3 Channel scope. But it's heavy and clunky. But very accurate . Rigol digital and the better brands are fine, but the processing is a little slower, just a little tech tip
i find it weird. i have a full ct sounds system. on my subs i have the at1400.1 on my mids i have the at125.4 and the tweeters i have the at60.4. signal for the mids and highs are run active thru a dayton audio dsp408 i used an smd dd1 to set my gains. the at1400 went just over half gain before clipping. but both the at125 and at60 never clipped. the gains are full on both amps and that scares me a bit. makes me think either the dd1 isnt picking something up or the dsp is some how faking a clean signal
@@DIYAudioGuy I also have the DSP hooked up in through the high output from the head unit versus the RCA's because I wanted to keep the wiring somewhat simple and clean
Hey man I know this is late but I have the dd1 and I tested my head unit for distortion I played the 40hz0db and1khz0db and I get no distortion on max volume on both sound waves , am I good to ply max volume and just turn up the gain?
A better scope would have more options that would be far more useful. SMD is selling convenience and simplicity. Don't mistake their equipment for being more accurate or giving more information. Hell if I could afford them I'd have some SMD stuff too, because regardless of Steve being a little baby the engineers that actually made this stuff did accomplish what they were going for. Shame that it lines Steve's pockets but wdyd.
My goal for this video was to provide information, a lot of people are trying to decide if they need SMD tools. There are ton of ways to set gain, it is OK to use the method that works best for you.
Yes most definitely. So many ways to have the same end result..
If u going to recommend just one to set the gains witch one you recommend??
When you adjust the gain for distortion either for the smd or multimeter, did you move the crossover frequency for the lpf all the way up. My polk audio has a freq of 50hz-500hz on the knob and on hpf it's 20hz-400hz. Need to adjust my gain this weekend and while I know how to get the target voltage I don't know what to do to the frequency before I start moving the gain knob to PROPERLY reach the targeted voltage
You the man bro,thanks
Personally I don't want to spend $1000 on a couple items that are going to sit in my toolbox most of the time. I switch cars every 3 to 5 years so...
nice video! out of all that, the MOST important thing you talked about was how everything in the chain starting from the beginning matters. I see a lot of lame video's on YT where someone is trying to "teach" people how to set gains with an O-scope and they are doing it completely wrong. "Just turn up the gain till you see (or hear) clipping" is not how you set gains. Head unit (or L.O.C if tapping in), DSP, crossovers etc, everything BEFORE the amps needs to be known first or it is all out the window. Also there is gain overlaps. Something completely ignored by these so called youtube "teachers". I have always told people, USE AN OSCOPE first. Learn it. Love it. USE IT RIGHT. Then get a DD-1 (for more accurate and simple results) once you feel like you are ready. It's the same process. (The DD-1+ Plus is a little different). But the standard DD-1 uses the same exact technique you would use if you had a scope. So no matter which one you choose, just do it correctly. Or turn all knobs to the right and jam on till you smell that smell. There is a right way and LOTS of wrong ways to do it. Thanks for the video it was a good watch :) Appreciate ya for that!
Thanks for the tools!
@@DIYAudioGuy no prob! enjoy :)
@@meade916 I was pleasantly surprised to see the DD1 detect distortion when there was no clipping. I knew that system did not sound right.
You make awesome stuff bro! My DD1 and CC1 are well worth the money. So then I got the hard case for them. And now I've got the TMM1 for the fans. Turns heads man. Badass stuff!!
I’m an owner of the DD-1+ and the original DD-1 HV, CC-1, IM-SG (first gen), AMM-1, and the VM-1 OM-1 and the TM-1. I also have a TPi meter/scope in my kit, a polarity tester and multiple connection options for any and every install need or tuning. I use the Liumy for work. For me, it’s the perfect travel set for on the road installs, audio monitoring, or just tinkering. From NY to CA, high heat, to cold weather, no cooked equipment, and everything is clean. Thanks DIY Audio Guy, and Thanks meade916 for the videos and tools. The audio world needs all your support to DIYR! (Do it yourself right.)
Sam's probably one of the coolest knowledgeable people on UA-cam.
Not just about amplifier repair either.
Enjoyed the video again!
I wish I had half of his knowledge and skill.
Have you seen the old barevids video of his 4" subwoofers in that huge box ?? Pretty cool stuff
dd1 has been on my wish list for a while, thankfully im getting divorced so i can get back to focusing on me projects!
👍
Def recommend the dd1+ it's just a little more but worth every penny
I shouldn't laugh but this comment was funny 🤣
@@tridelv702 more 'happy' than funny.. good 4 him. 😊
🎉
😂 congrats bud 🎉
I use an oscilloscope with fft as that allows me to see the actual wave form and the harmonics being produced. Where I live a two channel oscilloscope with this function is a third of the price of one SMD device and can be used to read many other signals for other projects. You can add a current probe and do math to get real time power and impedance numbers.
It all boils down to price versus performance no matter who you are and no matter where you are.
steve meade makes money on people that think math is scary, and now they got a little blinky light for 300bux, and steve using scare tactics to preach how everyone's system is clipping, and if they keep letting it clip their subs will explode.
Plus if the Amp ever dies you can use the scope to trouble shoot and repair it if you choose.
@@nickn7939 Sounds like a good reason to pay attention in math class.
I think it's unfair too ues ones product and mass produced these units to sell at a very expensive price for what is a simple light the smd dd1 is good for what i does but Steve should be ashamed for over pricing a piece of equipment that only has a light no screen and advised everyone that they need he's product so he can continue too live out his expensive life style. I bought one because i too fell into the track . I repair and install and modified car audio and im a electrician as my job i been installing car audio since i was 12 and since then i love car audio i remember the real and fun reason the days of car audio and electronics and it's why i made my hobbie too learn it i will simply say dont believe the hype i uesd the tool that cost me up too 200 plus shipping with a cd and a blinking light knowed as the smd dd1 and i returned it the next day reset my gains in my system and too my ears i was more pleased with my sound again i noticed that my gains were a little lower than with tool . The car audio and sales is all about making money now . And selling cheap products made and deigned with cheap parts what does matter if it says made in usa with cheap parts from China. People stop making these con artists rich they over price there gear and boasting there worth all over the internet. Car audio was never about money it was about music and joy and products that were way better than todays junk for half the cost i should know i been repairing amps and electronics since i was 17 in fact my amps are modified and are old school Components cause i know how well they outperform todays way over priced junk back in the day you did get what you payed for.
Yo love that dude.. bought his product earlier 2012 and then he signed his product.. love it..
He is a good dude.
You can use a scope to find clipping, and you can use a $80 calibrated mic to find distortion with free software. For the DIYer that's probably the way to go.
Yep, lot of ways to do it.
I sprung for a DD-1 about six months ago and I'm happy I did. I began my journey into car audio with a MTX1501D bought off a local Facebook group and have slowly continued to climb up to where I'm now running 6000 watts on strapped amps and backing it with lithium and a high output alternator. As you get into the more powerful and higher quality gear it becomes too expensive to risk doing it incorrectly. I've noticed my gain walks a little every few months from the vibration and a DD-1 is fast and simple enough that I can re-tune in a parking lot when something doesn't sound right.
I definitely agree that for someone just starting out the SMD tools may be a little too out of reach and a cheaper alternative may be needed...just as long as it is done right. For those bitten by the bug and constantly wanting more though, you can't go wrong with the SMD line.
Thanks for all the knowledge you've shared and for continuing to put videos like this out!
Awesome!
Just remember how you set your gains last time and do it again. Or make a mark, you don't need a dd1
I use a mini oscilloscope and a multimeter to find the maximum my amp can go (5 chs) then I rely on my ears. I know up to what point I can raise it, it's just a matter of preference thereafter. I have noticed my amp mono section needs to be tuned in that way but the 4 ch output has a Max of 30v just like you've gone through.
Cool
25hz, One test you can also do when settings gains and tuning in conjunction with your ears, what I do is use my Oscilloscope as a visual guide of what my amps are doing with my sub/bass/mid bass/midrange/mid high/brightness frequencies and what ones clip for adjustments. Whatever clips, or is wasted energy and can be filtered out, or EQ’ed.
Hopefully more and more manufacturers will start including clip indicators on their products. Obviously we still need to check head unit outputs for distortion along with any other gear we put in the signal chain. But, simple clip lights on all amps would be enormously helpful.
Very interesting and informative video Justin!👍
That would be nice.
I’m a DIY guy myself. I have 2 vehicles with aftermarket stereos and some higher end equipment. I’m frequently tinkering and trying different things. I have a DD-1 for gains. It always works great and is super simple to operate. I have complete confidence in SMD products and will continue to use them.
This was a good watch. The distortion issue is one that I never had considered or taken much thought into before, so it was really interesting to see that demonstrated. Just due to being the type who likes to tinker, see how things work in depth, and get the absolute best value, I'll probably always have a love for scopes. But this video was great in how it presented and educated about the SMD tools, I have quite a bit more respect for the engineering behind those tools now.
That compressor behavior is something I think I've only seen on pro audio gear before (with my very limited experience with pro stuff), so it was really interesting to see that on that little premade car enclosure. It makes me wonder how common that circuitry is on lower end gear, or if maybe it was just a once in a blue moon thing that some engineer thought was a good idea on that particular system.
Anyways I really appreciate your content man, it's the thing I like seeing in the audio, and really any, community. We shouldn't get so caught up in what's "better" and "worse". Instead we should be educating each other on how to make the best of the gear we do have. That and of course, trying to stick to the facts of the situation is always the way to go. There's always more to learn. Thanks.
You are exactly right.
You said I was gonna want to watch the whole video, but you didn't say time after time after time again! You know you have the only channel I've even considered becoming a patron. Not going to lie I've very close to pushing the patron button 💯
I would appreciate that, but no pressure.
I have one build but i still want to buy a DD1 not only to get my amp dialed in perfect but to help my friends who decide to get into car audio as well. We all know how the beginning stages of car audio goes and if i could help someone not blow thier amps or smoke thier subs id be happy
I too am like you, am in my 30s getting back into car audio, i use to "install" in my younger days, looking back im not super proud lol. Now that I'm older and better funded which leads to better tools and materials I can actually do professional level install, so far its just been doing my own stuff, I might take on side work in the future, but now that I have proper shop tools, and the knowledge and experience now to do it right, plus the technology and pricing is so much better these days, additionally guys like Justin and Steve sharing info, I love the hobby all over again. I have been wanting to get a few of the SMD products for a while, I think they are really cool, I just can't justify their cost at the moment for as much as I would use them, currently I'm using the O scope and DMM method, which is light years beyond how I use to set stuff lol. Thanks again Justin and Steve.
I certainly don't consider myself a pro. Hence the channel name DIY audio guy. But when I think about the rat's nest of wires that I had in my car back in the day, I've definitely gotten better.
The dd 1 one reminds me of my hp distortion analyzer. The scope isn't a distortion meter it's a wavemeter it does care about distortion. So it makes sense the dd1 will pick up distortion before its visible on the scope.
I was really shocked at how quick that plate amp distorted.
0.4 millls difference 😂😂😂😂😂😂wow
i have been building speakers for fun, since 87 when I was a schoolboy, I've made some good stuff in time but also made the worst sh....ever🤣🤣
but listening when setting gains by ear have never failed me, never burned any unit or amp... Steve Meade is one of my new idols in car audio, he's a genius and does things my way👌👌👌
If you train your ear it is a great tool. But a lot of people that set by ear have not done that. If you are ever listing to live music, and it sounds like crap, it is because the guy running the mixer in the back of the room has not trained their ear. (or the venue just sucks for audio)
@@DIYAudioGuy i don't like live music, i think it lacks quality, i like the bassdrum through the subs but not Moore than that...
I've trained my ears since 87 and i put a finger in each ear and listen close to the bass...
when I tune in the headunit I've always done as you also do and then i turn the gain on the amp for the woofer and set a mark aso for mid and treble.. and this is done with a original CD i use scorpions-passion rules the game for mid and treble and 80s pop/disco for the bass...sometimes hard rock..
some streaming are okay but most of it is too compressed and has no quality...
(one day i will try to connect my vinyl record player and listen to that, just for fun 😊)
20 years using an oscilloscope and plan to stay the same, I bought one and sold it shortly after, it was just collecting dust on my shelf.
I honestly was not expecting the DD1 to be any better than the scope, but I already had that plate amp pulled off so I gave it a try. I was shocked.
The installaton of my Head unit Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX and the Pioneer GM-E360X4 has been a long road to say the least. I got the Head unit for 100 dollars off of Facebook Market Place with the 1 hour ride to and from the sellers location makes it a good price and good value. This will replace my stock unit in my 2013 Chevy Tahoe. The Amp was also picked up on Facebook Market Place and was 100 dollars also. This amp is a nightmare that I have been having over and over again for the last 2 months. It is going back on the market tomorrow and upon watching your channel I am better equipped to make the right choice for my Budget. Cheap and Dirty but one mam's cast off is anothers treasure. I really need a good installaton video as this is the most time and money pit as my electrical and fabracaton skills aver at a novice level and my wife would like the seats put back in the Tahoe asap. Can you recommend a video that will better deal with the pitfalls and shortcuts that a person in my sisutation should watch. Bingo Starr Great channel best one I have come across in the past year by far. Thanks for your clear and well thought out presentation.
Awesome video! Steve Meades equipment IS the best available to those who know. I don’t own any myself but I do have access to most of it and rely on it for every customer.
His stuff is very easy to use.
When I was younger I did it by ear 👂 but now that I have some education with electrical and using O-Scopes it's a basic understanding of how AC works and what many people forget is different frequencies have different wave forms and time periods with a good O-scope you can measure multiple things at once I believe you can't do that with The DD1? I really don't believe it's a bad tool at all but the cost per usage is what I look at when buying a tool to do a job, If I bought a dd1 it's only for testing and tuning amplifiers with an oscope it has many usagages not just car amplifiers so would I buy one nope 🙅 I will stick to what I was trained on
That's why the scopes are so popular, they do a lot more. I was pleasantly surprised by the DD1. It does one thing, but does it very well.
@@DIYAudioGuy and thank you for making a great video on these tools
Would this same application be suitable for calibrating a pro audio or consumer in-home stereo system with separate components and passive speakers?
Yes.
This was one of the most informative and helpful videos I’ve ever seen on car audio. Major props to you! Subscribed ✅
Thanks for this nice informative video… just a little concern, please stop switch scene between the scope and your postur, too often. It gets me dizzy, would keeping up with your voice. Because I try to keep up with the scope detail view as well. 😊
This video is why I watch and subscribe to your channel.
I may have different views on a few comments but we all get something different from the same pages of a book.
I enjoy you topics and it contents. It is very imformative for those Novice whom just want to get louder within breaking the bank or destroying their gear due to lack of know-how.
Thanks!
My stereo OCDs caused me to get both, The DD-1 works and does exactly what you want it to. You're kinda paying more money for the product that is easier to use without having to think. If you're on a budget, The O scope is more than adequate, you just have to know what you're looking at (like your examples). I like that the O scope gives you voltage at the same time.
Ears can work.. You can for sure hear exactly when the wave clips with your ear, the tone changes. You just need a way to attenuate the signal so you don't blow your ears out. Example: find where the head unit clips by turning amp gain all the way down. you'll hear it change.
Right! It's easy and you don't have to think.
I have majority of the SMD tools and a few of the meters. Having the tools for the job, according to the sensitivity of the project, is important. The SMD Tools puts the bench size of each audio portion, into a travel size hand held tool. Justification of the cost, yeah it is a jump, but I say, their is no cost too high, when it comes to safety.
Right, no need to drag a laptop or tablet into the car.
@@DIYAudioGuy except when tuning a processor unfortunately…
Great video and very informative, the only thing that comes to mind in regards to needing a multimeter to set gain is in a situation lets say where you have an amp that can put out 2 or 3 times the subwoofers rated power. You would have to have a multi-meter or an oscope so you can turn the gain up to where the sub is rated at. If a DD1 is used you can only see where the amp starts clipping but at that point the power that the sub is rated at would be double or tripled. I cant see a reason to buy a DD1 and or 1 or 2 of the other SMD audio tuning devices unless you own a shop and time is a factor as the DD1 can speed up setting the amp if it can be done that way vs. using an oscope. If somebody does car audio as a hobby and setting there amp once or twice a $100 oscope is more than enough to do the job.
I agree.
My oscope meter like you have always says over load when I turn up gain knob.
That is a safety warning to let you know that the voltage has become dangerous. The scope should still work, just be careful so you don't get a nasty shock.
@@DIYAudioGuy thankyou
I personally own the SMD DD-1 and the CC-1 I recommend this product to any one that is diy i have done install for many years and I never had a complaint about how clean and clear it sounded i have gotten some folk that wanted me to use the SMD DD-1 AND CC-1 to there system and they where very pleased about there sound. so shout out to Steve Meade 💪🏼 it can be pricey but it is truly worth the buck!
It all boils down to budget, they are great if you can afford them/justify the expense.
Curious how these SMD devices and your oscilloscope compared to a digital multimeter and ohms law
You can find used SMD equipment on Ebay at great prices. I found my DD-1 just under 100 bucks. Now I have one. No longer a professional I shut down my store back in 2004. I just recently bought gear to have a nice system in my old Dakota and I just wanted the DD-1 to set my gain. It worked great and now I can either resell the DD-1 and possibly make a profit and have set gains, or just keep it and have it for life. I'm keeping mine and will set gains for friends if needed and have fun with it. As a former "pro" I only wished they had this back in my time. Great video as always.
Love the Channel.. quick question. I want to check to see where the volume on my iPhone distorts. Should I go with 3.5mm to RCA into the DD-1?
Thanks
Reason I’m asking is because I’m going to be using a DragonFly Black into the vehicle’s head unit for lossless Audio. And the DragonFly Black pushes out 1.2Volts… And that would probe my be the highest signal for Setting up the Gains on my amp.
The DD 1 may not detect voltage that low. If it can that should work.
Great video. A great learning experience. Thanks for all you do!
May I note that the transition effects were giving me a headache.
Thanks for the feedback.
Question 🙋🏽♂️: if your calculations says your subs take 80vrms but your distortion light comes on at 87vrms. Should you leave it at the 80vrms or to the 86vrms where the light is off when you back it down?
That is well within the margin of error.
Thanks dyi guy.. I think I wanna buy Steve Meade product.
Do you have a video on how to check for clipping on your cell phone?
I tune by hear using a 1k or 40hz test tone. You cam hear the Amp tone starts to clip with the gain. As a pro installer I backed this up with a scope or dd1.
Been watching your videos for awhile this one made me subscribe. Love your content!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video. I finally invested in the DD1... more so for ease of use and efficiency. I've been using the Lummy but when I'm doing multiple amps on a boat or vehicle the DD1 sure saves me time and I know it's consistent.
Great to hear!
I bought my first DD-1 nine years ago from Steve and used it to tune a similar Alpine amp available at that time
I'd love to see the content you'd create with the IM/SG in your hands, another choice piece of kit.
That's definitely on my wish list.
I'm a fan and believer in Steve meades products. He has been there and done that. And knows what is up!!
A lot of people agree with you.
5:49 I think the noise if it's the output of the amp, is not going to be filtered by the crossover at all. That is noise that the subwoofer will be seeing and playing. But that's still probably so quiet and high in frequency you won't ever notice it over the noise of the "wub wub" it's making. If it's above 10kHz then I doubt you'd ever hear it on a subwoofer ever.
Thanks to this video I might hold off on getting a cheap o-scope as if it isn't telling me the whole story and could leave distortion on the table then It's not what I need. This also helps me feel like I'm actually accurate assuming my amp (NU3000DSP) is limited to 24/25v per channel before distortion jumps to very audible. Might not be clipping, but sounds very bad past that.
Slowing the footage down really helped. I think it was interesting that neither the scope nor the AMM1 showed clipping on that cheap amplifier.
@@DIYAudioGuy Yeah. Curious what it takes on the scope to show the distortion. Like would you need a better scope or more practice with it to see it. Or what other device would it take to make it easy to detect the 1% distortion.
Maybe some sort of RTA you can clamp onto the output of the amp that shows the frequencies and the harmonics. I think harmonics 40dB below the fundamental tone is 1% and 20dB below is 10% distortion. There's probably a device that could do that, but is it cheaper than the SMD tool? I need to look into this more now.
Question? How do we check the signal going to your speakers once we set head unit EQ, dsp settings etc.
You should not need to, and remember when setting up the equalizer you cut instead of boost. You only boost a frequency if there's no other option.
@@DIYAudioGuyQuestion? After you check your head unit for clean signal, flat eq, no bass boost etc. then make sure amp signal is clean, dsp signal clean I never see anyone show how the signal is after you set eq to your liking.
Can't you put the probes of the oscilloscope in the positive and negative speaker terminals on the amp like you do the dd1. To find the clipping from the headunit? And also set gains on the amp
Yes.
QUESTION: is the "LIUMY" cheaper to but than the "MUST-TOOL" version scope????
I am not familiar with the Must Tool.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Too funny, that Alpine M500 you talked about. My wife has had that amp for years powering her sub along with another Alpine for her midranges. She's had them for years and moved them to a number of cars. Last fall I upgraded them with an Audio Control D-5-1300. I made use of the DD1 as well during the install.
It's a great amp.
I wish he could bring the price down on them by like 30-50%. I think he would sell alot more at a lower price. I dont think cost of production is so high that its impossible to do that. I know SMD and D'amore are a higher quailty brand but for as good as these are why not make them more easily/cheaply available to tge car audio community. Never have used then but everyone irl and online always talk very highly of them.
He has been selling these things for over a decade, if he was priced to high he would have lowered it by now. I don think the price has ever gone up, so after inflation he has cut the price.
@DIYAudioGuy idk man, I understand that R&D has to get figured into the price of a tool like that. But when I can get very nice and advanced DMM and Oscopes and obd2 and Tech2 devices now for under $50 and the myriad of other technology tools that have come down in price drastically in the last decade you would think he could do something to cut the cost of manufacturing and pass that on to everyone. Especially being someone as passionate for the community as he seems. Not really trying to complain, just feel that they are over priced for as limited as each one of those devices are. Mind you if I wanted all 5-6 different tools offered it would cost close to 2 grand. The for the reply tho. Love Steve and what he does and your channel. Just my personal opinion on these tools
Good video. I have the original liumy. The backlight screen has gone out, but still works. I recently bought Dean's irta2, which I love to see the signal. I switch out between audio control, audison, my d'amore mono block and old skool Phoenix gold( original ti series) amps on a regular basis. Yes, the audio control has distortion detection built in, and the audison software has clip lights too. However, I still, after 30+ years in car audio, have a hard time with 'gain over lap'. I understand the reasoning why, but I need a tool to help with that. So, now it's a matter of dd1, or dd1+? I figure , if I'm going to buy these amps( which I doubt I'll ever stop doing) , then I need the right equipment to tune it, otherwise I've wasted my $$$ on the gear.
They can all do overlap, but the DD1+ makes it easier, no math required.
I rock with steve mead.definitely would try these
So I've I stalled an jvc kwm745 head unit paired with an audison sr5.600. I have looked at the out put of the head unit using an oscilloscope there no cliping at full voltage . Although I have sent the gain to matched the pre out
I was thinking is there any reason why I can match it it to the speakers, which are audison rated to 100w rms @ 2ohm. Or set the gain as close to speaker max before oscilloscope shows cliping.
What are ur thoughts
Most add a subwoofer folks just crank the gain, and don't know, nor care if it's distorting. If you actually care about the sound or care of your system the SMD tools are in my opinion the ONLY WAY TO GO! They are idiot proof. Great video and even better product! Absolutely worth the money!
Yea, a lot of people destroy their gear with the gain knob.
alot of amp today has onboard clip indicator. how accurate is it onboard clip led? when clip light flashing, just turn down a bass knob. some song or music will clip, but some is clean. some more bass, but some is slow. some got soft clip, but some is clean 😅
I am sure some suck and some are great.
the funny thing is I have friends that tuned their systems by ear or by a voltmeter. I did it by ear then I invested in a dd1 and boy was not only mine clipping but my friends were clipped worse than mine. I love my dd1 and my taramps smart3 clip led is the best thing that came to amps
Awesome!
Hey bro can you do a video on running 3 amplifiers? I’m planning on doing 2 4 channel amps to run my mids and highs and ofcourse the 3rd amp is for my subwoofer. Being that now days the tweeters are so high in watts as well as the 6x9s I want to run everything separately instead of wiring the tweeters to the 6x9’s. Also my car has a factory hole for an 8” subwoofer which I bought an 8” mid speaker for. Hence why I’m planning out 2 four channel amplifiers
ua-cam.com/video/UXqqPDiRx-o/v-deo.html
Is there a way how to test a phone/tablet for distortion? Especially when streaming bluetooth, can I max the volume out?
If the amp is not clipping then you can turn the BT up until you see clipping. Either the scope or DD1 can be used for this.
I know my particular radio clips at 37 of 40. I set all my radio settings to where I like them. I set the amp for my highs first so I can hear any hiss or distortion. Then I moce on to the bass amp. Bass knob all the way up and amp gain all the way down. Radio set to volume 37. I play a 0db 40hz test tone. I hook a tweeter to the subwoofer channel. Slowly turn gain up to I hear a buzz in the tweeter. Then back it down to it stops. Basically quick explanation of how I set my system
👍Smart
@@DIYAudioGuy so I basically got completely ripped by Steve Meade saying I can set my gains with a tweeter just as well as his smd tool. I've seen multiple videos of people testing his smd tool against a tweeter with a capacitor to set gains on a bass amp. The red light on the smd comes on and off as the the buzz of the tweeter stops and starts. So what's your take on using a tweeter to set amp gains. Because he literally ripped into hard . Said I'm as smart as a box of nails 😂
I dropped a link to the video of him rippin into me. It's a bit rude and not very mature the way he spoke to me. I would expect a mature response from man like him. Anyways if u have time to go over the conversation that's in the link.
I'd greatly appreciate it sir.
Thanks and love your videos
Still no video on instructions on how to set the amp gains on a skar 2k
It's no different than any other amp.
Great video Justin maybe do a video on setting gains like 80hz on DD 1 vs oscope
Great suggestion!
I have a DD-1 I was just wondering what do I set frequency at the amps?
Use the 40hz tone when setting a subwoofer amp.
@@DIYAudioGuy
My mistake I meant the crossover frequency, let say I want to set the crossover on the Head Unit, so where should the cross be at at the amp?
From watching this MOST INFORMABLE video, there is not much difference btween the dd-1 and the oscilliscope, I will trust the oscilliscope beause it will keep under the clipping safely. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
So I got all that since I do small job on the side and work great but I got a problem setting up or adjusting the LOC from audio control the micro epicenter since it have a wide and a sweep. Should I used a scope for that
Not sure, an RTA might help.
My JL amp has a red light around the gain screw and if that ever blinks it’s clipping. It’s my favorite thing I’ve ever seen on an amp 😂 I love this video though because it has so much info I didn’t know
I think we will eventually get to the point where every amplifier has a clip light.
How can I check my iPad for clipping point? I use it with an aux cord.
If the aux cord has two male ends you can just probe one end, or get a 3.5 to RCA cable.
I need ya to use the dd-1 on high end amp like sundown or crescendo etc and explain what happens 🤔
I definitely will if I get a chance.
Love my Alpine v power 500w mono! Hooked up to two 12w0, perfect.
It is a great amp.
For me it is the Alpine PDX-M12, a bit more power on tap.
When using a scope or dd1, what about amps stable at 4,2 & 1 ohm. The voltages will be different for each load. If you max an amp out with an oscilloscope or dd1 then throw a 1 ohm load on it, wouldn’t it be clipped and distorted? In other words does ohms law and the load the amplifier sees change anything here
The DD1/scope find the point where the amp is maxed out, without distorting. That does not change if the nominal impedance changes. If you use a multimeter + math you are setting the amp for a specific wattage, that may be less than maxed out, it may be more than maxed out.
@ thank you for such a quick response!
I have the SMD DD-1, and the instruction booklet says to connect the red lead to a positive speaker output and black lead to negative speaker output. However, almost every video I’ve seen shows connecting the black lead to the amp’s ground. I bought mine just over a year ago. Do you know if this was a change in newer models?
I connected mine to the speaker outputs.
@@DIYAudioGuy I appreciate the quick response. I assumed that there was a change sometime ago. Your video is the most recent I could find concerning this tool. Subbing now. Thanks again!
I unfortunately can’t afford all these amazing tools so I had to build my own clipping detector. A small 3inch speaker with a capacitor in-line you can tell when the amp clips
I have a question for you. If I DIY a pair of probes into a single RCA, can I use that on an oscilliscope to find the distortion of my headunit volume?
Yes, I did something like that. I picked up some cheap RCA to speaker wire pig tails and just crimped on a female spade terminal. You should be able to attach banana plugs to plug right into the scope.
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you Cheif! I appreciate you!
What about 1000+€ oscilloscopes, as you said if you're doing this professionally do you think SMD can still compare to high end ones?
Yes, Steve has tested it against those scopes on his channel. The beauty of this device is the simplicity. When the light is you have clipping.
have you tried using a piezo tweeter or tweeter with built in crossover/ capacitor to set gains vs o scope or dd1
I have not.
How accurate are the built in clip lights on bass knobs?
I tested a few, they all turned out like the test in this video: ua-cam.com/video/5puEET5Bpjk/v-deo.html
Good day... I've bought a smd dd1, but it does not pick up any signal at all. Even with using the cd that came with the smd dd-1
Please help if possible
No idea what to tell you man.
@@DIYAudioGuyNo problem, thanks for the reply
How about using a real oscilloscope like a Hewlett Packard 54602B like Sam is using at Barevids. I managed to get my hands on one on Ebay. It would be more of a real side by side comparison test pitting the Liumy against the HP vs the SMD.
I would love to do that for you all!. Help me out by becoming a Patron!
Hi. Great video but unfortunately I don't understand everything 100 percent. I know that you do not want to recommend any of the products directly. I just want to set the clipping on my system. i could get the DD1 for the same price
get like the lm2020 oscilloscope. could you just let me know which one is more accurate? or could you write me your feedback so that I can translate it myself? I just want to set the clipping and my apologies is which of the two is more accurate. I would be extremely women if you can answer me briefly, please. Thanks very much
If accuracy is the most important thing then get this one: lddy.no/14doe
@DIY Audio Guy I love your videos and had a few questions boggling my mind any answers or advice is much appreciated:) So I set my gains using a Oscilloscope and the wave was clean up to 40 volts on a skar rp.800d:) My first question is that I feel 40 volts is quite high for a 800 watt rms at 1 ohm amp so am I not understanding something correctly here? My second question is I realized by watching the soundwave that when I set my crossovers (subsonic=26hz/lpf=100hz) while playing the same 40hz-5db tone the voltage drops from the 40 volts to 25 volts. I'm just a little lost on why my voltage is changing so some clarification would be great cause that's quite the voltage drop. Last question, is it not good to set your gain with crossovers already set? I see everybody set crossovers after gain but I'm just curious if you can set crossovers then gain as long as you never touch the crossovers after setting the gain? Cause in my mind it makes sense that that would maximize voltage/performance:) I believe that with 25 volts after crossovers I'm only getting 625rms wattage out of the amp so if it needs boosted a bit I will:) thanks for any advice or clarification:) I also have the smd dd-1 and the smd clips at the same point as my Ocsilloscope so I believe everything is accurate:)
The crossover works by cutting voltage, the slope follows log10. So it is not a wall, it is a gradual roll off that gets steeper. What you're seeing is the top of that gradual roll-off.
And yes, that does seem like a lot of volts for an 800 watt amplifier.
@@DIYAudioGuy Awesome thank you for the reply:) Would it be bad to set my gain with the crossovers already set?
@@robertohara9547 Not the way I would do it, but it will not hurt anything as long as you are not clipping.
@@DIYAudioGuy Awesome thank you so much for the advice I appreciate it a ton!!:)
To set GAIN in AUTOSOUND... Ya set your MIDS and HIGHS/FULL RANGE system to its maximum range with no audible distortion. Typically ya can get 3/4 the volume on most DECKS then distortion sets in. NOTE the VOLUME NUMBER on the DECK, important. Once ya have your MIDS/HIGHS/FULL RANGE system tuned to its max clean output... THEN dial in yer SUB WOOFER AMP to sonically MATCH the mids and highs. Set your remote sub VOLUME KNOB to about HALF and adjust accordingly as SOME MUSIC is BASS HEAVY.... some music not so much so, Bass knob set at half way will afford the user a RANGE of adjustment needed depending on the music being played. Typically your MIDS/HIGHS/FULL RANGE system will distort LONG before your sub amp. OR... In "competition mode"... bust out the TOOLS mentioned in this video. I been installing AUTOSOUND better than 50 years now... I dont own TOOLS. Trained ear I suppose here. Good video!!! BDBD/2023
OH YEAH... AUTOSOUND???.... %99.999999999 "SQ"..... 0.000000001 "Competition"... Know your customers... Very few Competition types out there... as SQ goes... Nicer the car the better the SQ.. regardless of GEAR.
BDBD/2023
I love content like this. I have a DD1 sitting in my Amazon cart right now. I wanna add this tool to my arsenal but was more interested in doing other aspects of car audio. Now I have people wanting me to help install, and I think im going to pull the trigger on this.
My goal for the video was to provide information for people that are sitting on the fence.
So, old video I know, but I am confused how it is considered distortion near the end when the o-scope is clearly showing no distortion? Sure the amp isn't working in the way we expect, but the signal looks aight. Admittedly I'm not at all familiar with the Liumi scope, but I mean... that's a clean looking sine. Granted I work on circuits that are designed to add distortion so..
Sometimes the wave appeared to be a bit wonky to me. I don't think I got it on camera.
@@DIYAudioGuy Now that you mention it, going back maybe I can see it now. I'd like to see it on a bigger scope that has more inputs so you can compare input to output , but I do get the reason why you like the Liumi. Quite a neat little unit. I would definitely agree that there is a limiter in place.
Hey there, I just found your channel and your videos and you are awesome! I really love your videos and how much you know about all that.
So here's a tricky one for you: Try to get the maximum spl/lowest frequencies out of a custom build spare tire subwoofer!
Passive radiator.
@@DIYAudioGuy I didn't have the time to watch all of your videos (or at least the most important ones). How does the shape of a box affect the sound? And how do you match the box to a fitting sub (&passive)?
I'm asking because these weirdly shaped cabinets for the sides inside the trunk exist.
Thanks!!
@@GamingShiiep The shape of the box is not affect the sound.
Hey I need some help with an amp that I want to install without a head unit I want to use my phone to play music directly using rca phone adapter like you did on this video. but every time I power the amp it makes a loud pop on the speakers. How can I stop that from happening ?
Since I can't see how you have it wired I can't give advice on how to fix it.
Where can I send you a picture of the setup?
hi, i am confused with the osci, when i try to turn the gain, the recommended voltage for a 2000 watts under 1.5 ohm is 54.7v. but the osci does not detech distortion until 65v. what gain should I set? the osci wave form that clips over 60v or the voltage calculator that is 54.7v?
With a multimeter you're not testing for clipping or distortion. You're just sitting the voltage to the level that will get you the power you are trying to produce.
Sounds like you have an amplifier that can put out more than it's rated power, so if you use the scope you'll be getting more power.
I use an 4 channel Autel o scope that can plug into a pc or my Autel scan tool. Since it is designed for automotive diagnostics, the leads are long enough to keep from "laying in the trunk."
I would love to have one of those!
I have the same thing but it is the Hantek one.
I have generally always overpowered my subwoofers. This makes the gain not that big of a deal to me. I just use a basic voltmeter and set the volts to match what the subs need. For instance, powering a 600 watt sub with a 1000 watt amplifier. If you were to set gain to the max before clipping on the amp, you would most likely blow the sub. No clipping worries for me. Although I have pushed amps back in the day to their max etc, where clipping would matter.
Smart.
Very nice video again , i own the dd combo, but if i'm not mistaking when you read the instructions , thay say to play 40/1000hz tone when you try to find the max volum of your head unit , but when you set your amp they say somethinf about -5/-10 db 40 hz tone. So what s the right way ? 40 hz 0db , or -5/-10 ?
I will probably do a video on that.
@@DIYAudioGuy please do 😅 , i now it has something to do with the music that you are listening to , but that's it .
I love technical videos and I really enjoyed this. Thank you
I still think the best advice in your video is - buy a decent brand, which solves a lot of problems.
Right, you don't have to drop big cash on the high-end stuff, just avoid the bottom of the barrel. Pioneer, for example, makes solid amps that are clean and do rated. Rockford Fosgate Prime amps even have a clip light.
@@DIYAudioGuy 100% decent brand doesn't necessarily mean buy the top end. You are correct. I'd rather own a Prime RF than some dubious brand.
What if u try the home made distortion detectors made on u tube for accuracy
The tweeter trick works just fine.
Can use a tweeter whit a 2.2 uf capacitor too. You must to increase the gain. When the distortion appears,the tweeter will begin to sound. That's another way to calibrate it
That also works.
So were you using a -5, -10 or -15db when testing this and showing clipping on the lumi and not dd1?
0 DB, I am working on a video comparing the different test tones. Just need to get the script pinned down so I can film it.
Tried training my ear, ended up loosing hearing in my left ear😉. But seriously though, a lot can probably get it close by ear. However I don't trust it enough. The way I look at it I spend enough on amps and subs that it's not worth risking. I've tried by ear then followed with the dd1 and an amm1. Then check it with a dmm to see how far off I was. Next smd goodie I want is the signal generator. Thanks for sharing another excellent video
The best thing about the SMD tools is that you don't need to plug into a computer.
@DIY Audio Guy agreed. I still have to plug into the dm-608 dsp once in a while. I have the bt-24 bluetooth dealio but it's just easier to adjust thing on the laptop. It's really cool to stream hq files and bypass the head unit though. We live in a cool day n age with tons and tons of goodies to play with.
Where did you find that amm1....it's been out of stock for over a year?
I just checked all of my usual spots. They are all out of stock.
I might have posted this before, I know you were using the Dayton DSP. I found it will only take 1.5v in and only 2.3v out.. So use that information how you will. I've got an audiocontrol on the way. The helix is what I really want.
I remember seeing the post, not sure if I replied. I like the 408 but it is an entry-level DSP. I'm hoping to upgrade mine sometime in the near future!
So how much did you have invested in your rta I would love to have one of those too
ua-cam.com/video/7orJovlXvBM/v-deo.html
What range does a person need for an O-Scope (10/20/30/40/100/200 MHz) to setup an amplifier?
Honestly I'm not really sure.
@@DIYAudioGuy I’m looking to not only use a scope to setup my amps, but to use it for electronic diagnostics.
Can larger power wires fit through it and what if I have several with 1 or more on dual input adapters?
The AMM1? You put that on the speaker wire.
@@DIYAudioGuy Oh sweet. Thank you.
@@DIYAudioGuy I see the input at the top. For some reason i had it in my head it was the unit he sells with the hole in the middle of it. My bad. 😄👍👍
I would recommend a analog oscope, the issue with new digital scopes is the latency in cheap oscopes. I use a Iwatsu 200mhz 3 Channel scope. But it's heavy and clunky. But very accurate . Rigol digital and the better brands are fine, but the processing is a little slower, just a little tech tip
Definitely want to get my hands on one of those at some point.
i find it weird. i have a full ct sounds system. on my subs i have the at1400.1 on my mids i have the at125.4 and the tweeters i have the at60.4. signal for the mids and highs are run active thru a dayton audio dsp408 i used an smd dd1 to set my gains. the at1400 went just over half gain before clipping. but both the at125 and at60 never clipped. the gains are full on both amps and that scares me a bit. makes me think either the dd1 isnt picking something up or the dsp is some how faking a clean signal
That DSP only has 2.5v pre outs, so that may be the issue.
@@DIYAudioGuy I also have the DSP hooked up in through the high output from the head unit versus the RCA's because I wanted to keep the wiring somewhat simple and clean
Hey man I know this is late but I have the dd1 and I tested my head unit for distortion I played the 40hz0db and1khz0db and I get no distortion on max volume on both sound waves , am I good to ply max volume and just turn up the gain?
You are good to apply max volume and then set the gain with the DD1.
A better scope would have more options that would be far more useful. SMD is selling convenience and simplicity. Don't mistake their equipment for being more accurate or giving more information. Hell if I could afford them I'd have some SMD stuff too, because regardless of Steve being a little baby the engineers that actually made this stuff did accomplish what they were going for. Shame that it lines Steve's pockets but wdyd.
Steve is certainly polarizing.