My Wolfram 250.4 has been acting up. Ft passenger channel died, so set as 2 channel. 2 channel for several months, but recently when i turn it on whole left side is out, but comes on after a couple minutes. Been scheming for a Jp 284 and an Audio Dynamics DSP. Watching this has reaffirmed my decision to go with the d4s amp. 😎
That’s not a bad idea at all. In my mind, I was going to swap em out for something better before that became an issue, but there’s really no reason to at least seal em up. Thanks for the info! And I appreciate the compliment on the build, it’s a work in progress
Absolutely agree! And it doesn’t matter what you used if you got the results you were after. If you managed to save some money AND get what you wanted, I’d call that a double win
Thanks for the motivation just burnt up my sub few weeks bk cuz I was clipping because I was being lazy so just got the avatar stu 12 n it's still setting here till I do the big 3 n add 2 batt so I don't blow 300$lol when I go to do my door speakers I'll b watching again
Hey man sometimes we gotta learn the hard way...but those lessons stick!! I bet you don't do that again! And yea man that big 3 is super important to feed those amps properly. And shiiit any questions along the way man, don't hesitate! I got an amp tuning video coming up pretty soon (it's for a 4 channel for my mids and highs, but the idea is the same)
That’s a great sub but I recommend a driver that has much more sensitivity as u will not be clipping as much at higher volumes. I definitely recommend getting ur electrical up but in the meantime u can run some more efficient drivers that require less power. But more importantly set ur gains with an oscilloscope and don’t touch them no matter what. U can work around ur electrical issues with your enclosure and efficient drivers. But unfortunately nothing from Alphard other than the Arnold’s and Sylvester’s have high sensitivity which is why u don’t here quite as much raving about the avatar and 4500 series require even more power….
Rule a thumb I always run my power wire along the bottom of the car on the outside and feed it in to the rear where the amp is. that way, it is completely separate and no interference.
I was definitely considering that, but figured for a single run of 1/0 it would be a waste of engineering lol. When the system grows a bit, that’s probably gonna be the way. Thanks for the info!
I love it! It’s been going strong with no issues since I got it. I’ve never even felt it get much warmer than room temp. I’ll probably be looking into them first for whatever my next amp is.
You also need to put a set of fans on the sides of your amplifier rack so the inside of the racks air gets circulated or the air will constantly heat up.
I appreciate that man, and I absolutely agree! I'm still trying to figure out how to work with this algorithm. I really appreciate that feedback though man, cool to know people out there enjoyin the content
I also have an interference sound and use a jp amp. I’ve used a different head unit and both r high quality, one was new actually, and ran completely different rcas through the middle on top of seats and all to test and I still have it. Not sure if it’s a d4s amp issue or what. The only other thing it could be is a ground loop which I doubt bc I tried different ground as well😂 only hear it during little pauses in songs and when nothing is playing tho so not worried
Hope not! Just got mine! But I don’t think it is the amp (at least in my case), since it’s only really present in the right speaker. Either way, just a lil more volume and it goes away lol
They don’t have the lighting in them from the factory, but it’s easy enough to add it. And yea I thought about mounting it that way, but for now I wanted it to match the other amp
If you want more Bass brotha do what Car Audio Fabrication did and use rivets around those openings on your door and cut some mdf boards or HDPE or other types of plastic to match the openings and then connect using bolts into the rivets through the newly cut boards. Treat with foam and dampening mats. Kinda makes little subs boxes
That’s a great idea! I been meaning to make some of those for a while now, but it’s been kinda low priority. Thanks for reminding me to come back to that!
@@DaBadNewz ya brotha! Watch his videos on it, he’s a big channel and does a lot of high end work. He went through how to do it exactly and seemed like it would make a huge impact. It should be “how to add more mid-bass” on the Car Audio Fabrication page, it’s 10 years old but still holds true
On my scion the driver side is about impossible to run wire thru the boot because there is a fuse box or computer thing blocking the boot. I got it ran on the outside for now until I build my doors. Are you going to build some doors man? Because this is the same thing I did but I always want more lol. Started with a 3 piece component set then made pods for 3 more Arnold's. Now I'm going to add 3 more Arnold's to each door. But man the jp234 is a beast that's for sure. I've been running it at 1.3 ohms each channel for over a year and it makes those Arnold's scream. But that 284 is definitely enough for a pair of Arnold's 👍
Yea it was pretty tight near the driver side too, had to go around it. And yea full doors is definitely coming, I’m just doing the build in phases. First bass, then mids n highs, then outside speakers, then start it all over again with more/better lol But damn I bet those doors can do some nasty distance! And yea so far the 284 been keeping me happy
Didn’t really need it at the time. Both power wires come straight from the battery and there’s no other accessories for now, but I DO plan on using one in the future when I move my battery to the back
Great install! I'm a pro EVT and I'll say those boots suck but you did good. Tape your wires to 3mm fiberglass rod and detach the boots which will straighten them out. Klein makes some good cable lubricant too. A seatbelt bolt is also more than adequate ground if it's bare metal. Keep it up man!
At least I had the right idea! Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll make sure I’m a little better prepared next time. And thanks for checking out the video man!
Passenger side boot is stiffer bcs the door gets used less. If you got compressed air, you could try using a light string with some plastic bag tied to the end and blast air into the boot and catch the string. Use the string to pull cables. Thx for this channel ima learn some stuff.🤙
That makes sense. And thanks for the tip, I haven’t heard that one yet! One of the cool things about having this channel is all the shit I learn in the comments, like this wire-sail idea! I wanna try that now just because it sounds interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Those sound 🤌🏼 could some bad news be coming to the rear doors🤔😁 man those speakers are nice man I need some mids bad I'm still running my stock head unit but will definitely be upgrading once I get some mids that are worth it👍🏻
Just might be! (Or maybe kick panels, not sure yet). And yea I love em man! These things get down! And yea I definitely recommend a new head unit…getting it clean at the source is super important for sound quality
@scu-dub maaaaan that’s the most elusive spot on these cars! I definitely got some ideas, but the problem is that I have too many ideas! So for now…nah not really lol
@@DaBadNewz 🤣 I feel you bro it's like they're there for something but it's hard to do something with them lol my @$$ would have some 6×9s in em or something lol maybe even a couple amps lmao ✌🏼
I been using this one for a few years now: amzn.to/4afg2xE. Been really happy with it! The numbers on the dies are kinda funky, but the actual crimps it does are money. I'd buy it again if I needed another one.
Nice video man I haven’t seen a video from u in a while but remember ur last video and like ur content and delivery. FYI I run Deafbonce , PRV and MMATS Audio and I like the Arnold’s they get loud but they play about 2500 hz higher than other 6.5” drivers putting them well into the midrange area. This is another reason they sound louder than other brands but they aren’t the loudest 6.5” drivers my MMATs Neos get louder on way less power than my Arnold Neos and have a warm flat sound . But if u don’t really need more midbass and like their sound that’s cool. I prefer my PRV and MMATs Neos u should check them out. Also u can make ur own extremely durable and indestructible speaker adapters using HDPE or a cutting board from any dollar store. U can also use jb weld to make glue them together to make the speaker adapter to the desired thickness. HDPE will last longer than any other material you could use u can even use threaded inserts to attach them to the door panel. Just make sure u use a resilient gasket material like between them in the door like cork or weather stripping tape it should be able to handle water . Water will get in ur doors at some point also put heat shrink over the speakers terminals so they don’t rust out if they get wet. And u can make a cover to shed water off the speaker in case it drips down from the window. www.webstaurantstore.com/choice-10-x-6-x-1-2-white-polyethylene-cutting-board/4071065WH.html?GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oB5KqXXymDmwCSK_uo4NypH0NFHjdi_yn9v2k44BoYHeJqZ9hTD4ixoC0UcQAvD_BwE
First, thank you! I appreciate the compliment and coming back to check out the latest. I’m doing weekly videos now so hopefully you come back! And it’s funny you mention those PRV and Mmats because I was looking at both when I bought my Arnolds (but ferrites). And tbh, part of my final decision came down to color scheme, because after looking at a few comparable speakers in the same price range, I decided in my mind it really didn’t matter what I got, as long as I got away from what I had lol. And the cutting board!! I never heard that one before, but I definitely see how it could work. I’m all for repurposing shit like that. Imma be keeping my eyes out for whatever I’m cutting up into my new speaker adapters. Thanks for the info man! Super helpful
@@DaBadNewz No problem you made a video a while back when i think u installed your alternator and I haven’t seen u in a while until I saw this video. But is that the same scion or before did u repaint it or get another? On another note I have been into car audio for atleast 20 years and in that time I learned a lot about custom installs and alot of DIY. I have more than 30 hours or spray foam experience in dodge neon not to mention, fiberlglass work, box building and all different types of installation hacks and techniques I’ve learned. For the cutting boards just sand down the sides ur gluing together so the epoxy will bond them together better HDPE is an amazing material. As u will see it’s the most amazing material for speaker adapters and very affordable they even come in different colors on that link I sent. The reason I haven’t run my Deafbonce on top of the fact I didn’t want my midrange to play so high is I still don’t have a 4518 and a vehicle with enough electrical and an AAK 8000 to push it yet when I get some other stuff I will do an all Deafbonce build. Unfortunately I’m just building boxes in my basement for the next build even though I have no idea what it’s going on . I will probably do some folded horn enclosures next for one of my stroker 18s which is the sub that got me hooked on car audio. I have to tell u though the PRV 6MR600X-NDY-4 are an amazing driver but I bout the MMATs Neo 600.4 and they’re mind blowing the lighter cone definitely helps them achieve the extra sensitivity. They’re the smallest Neo drivers out and the loudest straight out the box I like how they sound but the PRV have the exact sound I want just not as much SPL. My buddy used to work at MMATs so I got everything at cost ….
@@djrockon5729 ih yea that’s a throwback! That’s actually when I first started really trying to put out car content. And that build is gonna be nasty! I love the fact that you’re building it before even knowing what you’re putting it in…that’s dedication! Snd yea I saw at that link they had a Green that looked pretty on point for my build. Oh and same car, just did some painting to the interior pieces
WHERE WERE YOY WHEN I DID THE WORK?! Lol nah jk, thanks man! So many people have told me about that since I made this video that I’m surprised I didn’t already know that trick. But next time, I’m DEFINITELY using some wire coat hangers. Thanks for the suggestion!
Maaaaaan, where tf were you at when I did that passenger side?! That definitely seems like a better option…I was close with the chopstick! Thanks for the info man!
Thanks! And yea definitely! First I’m bringing the rest of the system up to match, (midbass, tweets, some outside speakers), then starting back with the bass. (So probably not for a lil while, but definitely on the agenda)
I've been happy with the Down4Sound 14g lddy.no/1khqc Maybe *slightly* bigger than you need, but leaves you some room to upgrade in the future if you want! Hope this helps, good luck!
Oh nah those speaker baffles wouldn’t even almost fit. Magnet on the back was way fatter than the baffles. Baffles just sitting on the shelf with the old speakers.
Did you figure out that white noise in between songs? My korean ds18 has that problem, but my wires are on the correct side, separated from rcas and speaker wire. Im about to place my order for the mini max or the regular 5 channel version and a jp23 v2 today with the sale goin on. Lmk bro.
Not really, but tbh I never did what I figured would fix it (running power wires down the center, signal down the sides). It’s also pretty minimal. Like when I cruise with my dog, I sometimes don’t have anything playing and it’s still quiet. I DID have some REALLY BAD noise/interference after my first competition run, but that turned out to be loose RCAs. And those minimax are decent! I was pretty surprised by how much they get down for how small they are
@DaBadNewz going back and forth on the gloss black jp23 v2 with the mini max gloss black 5 channel. They don't sell the gloss black regular 5 channel colorway for some reason. Either that or the gray or flat black matching larger regular sized ones. Is the 4 channel like 6 pounds you'd say?
Nah I’m still on factory tweets for now. I’m like 90% sure it’s just because I’m running speaker wire basically bundled with the power wire all the way from amp to passenger door. Definitely not ideal
Depends on the amp, but that should be fine, that's a pretty common way to set things up. For the filters, right now I have my HPF at 150 and the LPF at about 8k. I plan on moving the Lower filter to 250 when I install my midbass speakers though. Hope that clears things up!
I would only change the upper filter if I get some tweeters or horns or something that picks up the signal lower than 8k. So for example: if I picked up some horns that were made to perform best at like 4k and up, then I might bring the mid speakers down closer to 4k. You just wanna make sure wherever one filter is set to cut the frequencies, you have another one set to pick them up. (And it’s really just trial and error. You want there to be SOME overlap so you’re not missing anything, but not so much that you get a boost where the 2 signals overlap). Hope that makes some sense! Let me know if you got any more questions man
Hey bro I had a? How do you tune your amplifiers to your door speakers. I use a 1000 Hz test tone. But for the LPf all the way up and for my subsonic I get confused on that 🤔
I got a video about it coming up where I go into detail, but to try and explain real quick: The LPF is the low pass filter, basically, you set that at the highest frequency you want your speakers to play. It blocks everything higher and lets the lows pass through (to the speakers). The subsonic is kinda the opposite (and used for subs)...a subsonic filter is for setting the lowest you want the sub to play (also called a HPF or high pass filter when not used on subs). To set both of these, you need to look at the specs for your speakers. Most of the time they will list "frequency response" as like 100Hz-4000Hz (this is just example numbers you might find on a 6.5 midrange). You would put you LPF to 4000, and set your HPF to 100, and that way your speakers would ONLY be seeing the frequencies they play well with. For my DBs I installed, I think I have the LPF around 8000 and the HPF around 150 (based on what the manual said they could handle). So anything lower than 150 and higher than 8k, doesn't go to my mid speakers. My bad for writing a book! hopefully that helps a lil bit.
Hey thanks bro for the heads up really appreciate that I just get confused sometimes but no worries on your book 😉 it's all good. I'll look for that video so I can check it out it's sometimes I do it for my subwoofers but I always mess up on my mid-range and my tweeters. Good looking out bro keep continuing your great videos 💯🔊🔊
Happy to help man! Filters can be confusing. I use them in my work all the time and I still have to really think about which one is which. But yea in the video I do it all step by step, so hopefully that one should clear things up. Good luck on your build!
Wut sup! I'm currently upgrading my first system on my Gladiator and trying out some SPL fun. I only have 2 10" Sundown SA V2 on a under the seat box. I just ordered JP33 and JP284 too. I'm also looking at those Deaf Bonce Arnold I cant wait to hear yours 8" Arnold with 70hz do you think it will be too much on my overhead sound bar with 4 8" 70hz? What do you think about B2 Audio RAGE8PWR they try to sell it as "move like a sub" there is a video on youtube with Big Jeff Audio. Love your video!
Personally, I think that would be awesome! You would obviously need enough midrange, tweets, and subs to support it, but since midbass seems to be one of the harder things to achieve in car audio, I think overdoing it is the right way to do it. And as for the B2s, I haven’t heard those specifically, but the other B2s I’ve heard have performed pretty well. I’ll have to see what’s up with those. And thanks for watching! Should be installing my 8s pretty soon
I got mine on a Down4Sound JP284 and I love it so far. Seems like that one would be perfect for you too. There's links in the description to check it out. Let me know what you end up running!
@@DaBadNewz i ended up getting the JP284 amp bro all I need is the amp wiring kit to connect the four speakers and amp. (I’m new to all this audio stuff) so I honestly don’t know what type of wires I need to get it all installed. I have all the 4 speakers in a panel that will be mounted in the back of my car where the back window is
Nice! You gonna like that one! The amp kit should come with your power, ground, remote, and RCA, so you should just need some speaker wire. I'm running 14ga OFC from Sky High. You know how you're gonna wire em up? Since they're 2 different speakers I would keep those DS18s and DBs on separate channels (so you can set the filters for each a lil more specific to the speakers)...but they should have pretty similar frequency response anyway.
@@DaBadNewz tbh I don’t know how it’ll be wired up I’m going to have a friend of mine do the installation I just got to get all the necessary parts. For the amp kit, would the Skar 1/0 Gauge 3K watt OFC kit work for it ? As for speaker wire I’ll probably do 14G as well
great clip showcasing the extremes of running wires in stock loom. Best to use a plastic rod or a huge wire tie to force through the factory loom as plastic is safer and wont conduct. Never know when ya running blind. Now ya gotta do the back doors.... heheheheheheh.... BDBD/2024
Yea definitely need a plastic rod of some sort for next time. And tbh, I don’t think I’m gonna mess with the back doors. Since I don’t have back seats and the sub sits there, i think I might just skip em UNLESS A SPONSOR WANTS TO PUT SOME SPEAKERS BACK THERE FOR ME (just in case any are reading lol)
@@DaBadNewzBrah.... you on the right track in regards to SPONSORS... Gotta call em out!!!... As TOOLS go... One day you will be at a GARAGE sale and you will SEE it... a LONG flexible plastic "TOOL".... might have to cut off either end and make it your OWN... Just know I have "tools" in my BOX that I made SPECIFIC... for decades now. INSTALLERS MAKE their own TOOLS back when I was a young'un.... In the 70's people did not even know what an Installer WAS... LOL.... So YES, keep an eye out for a THIN... maybe FIBERGLASS.... If ya REMEMBER from the age old days, there used to be Fiberglass rod used as Antenna Masts... Anything LONG THIN and PLASTIC will do and SOMETIMES.... Ugggggg ya gotta go THROUGH the RUBBER.... jump across... in THAT regard always make sure you are poking through the rubber on the BOTTOM... for water sake... it drains DOWN so. Always gotta remember the WEATHER in regards to them DOORS.... I like watching your stuff so... Keep em coming!.... Mr BAD NEWS.... OH YEAH.... remember Bad News BROWN?.... www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Bad+News+the+wrestler
I’m definitely down for repurposing and/or making my own tools! I love that kinda stuff! Snd yea after getting so many suggestions, I think I got a pretty good idea of the type of thing I need, just gotta find it out in the wild now. And good lookin out on the “poke down” tip…that’s one of those hidden gems! Something small but it really makes a difference. Thanks for the info man, I appreciate you!
This GUY!!! Have the XBOX on 4 wheels screaming & booming!! 💯💨🤙 #MajorMajorPROPS. I would love to get my own XBox on 4wheels (its what I call it) one too. I'll stick with my 2013 Nissan Altima as long as I can. 🤙💯
Yup yup! Bought it just to turn it into a rolling speakerbox. And the sub and amp in this car I originally bought for my 2012 Altima Coupe I had. Really loved that car! Thanks for checking it out!
@@DaBadNewz Whoa!! You had the coupe? #Nice!!! I've switched stock speakers for some pioneers I'l be getting a new headunit with dvd/cd nav/gps/ etc to match in the future, for now it's the stcok head unit . you're welcome and no problem 🤙💯
@babiboib7 yea man! I loved that car! Still got a few old videos of it on my channel (but they were kinda terrible videos lol). I bet those pioneers really gonna open up with a fresh head unit!
That’s exactly what I’m getting ready to do. 4 total runs to the back. If I can find one easy enough, I want to repurpose the fat factory grommet for all 4 runs so I don’t have to install 3 more boat grommets
that would be one issue (unless you had some 300 rms tweets!), and the other issue would be the filter setting I have these at. The filter on the amp is set so that the frequencies running to these speakers are all below what a tweeter is made for. (So not only would they blow from the power, but there's also just way too much signal in general). You could still use them if you had crossovers or just hooked them up to the other channels on the amp (which is a more common way of doing it, and the way I'll be doing it when I get new tweeters). And dumbass questions are the ones you ask AFTER you fucked up. You're trying to skip the fuck up...sounds like a smart idea to me!
Which Pioneer did you have? Pioneers have been known to be good and supply proper voltage for a long time. I wonder if you just had a bad model/unit. Either way though, I DO plan on upgrading it fairly soon since there's just a bunch more features nowadays than when I picked up this one. What do you suggest?
I think it was a Sony I was playing around with at Best Buy...might have to see what they got to offer when I'm ready to swap it out. Thanks for the suggestion!
Sony does make a good h/u, but personally I'd rather you find an old deh80prs! My system still sounds alot cleaner than most of the radios I install today. I find em for around $400. Tbh it's the most important purchase in anyone's system!
Looking at the specs, it seems pretty decent! I would definitely run one if I found it for cheap. And I definitely agree about the H/Us importance...I always tell people the FIRST thing to swap out should be the source. I'll keep rockin this AVH-2600bt for the time being (but I'm open to switching). Thanks for the info!
I had never heard of dude, had to look him up. I admit, I kinda hear it! Just sounds like a typical dude from the hood in CA. That's kinda funny though, thanks for pointing that out!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Installed JP284 this weekend. Sounds amazing! 😎
Glad it's working for you! They really are some solid little amps
@@DaBadNewz only 30% gain. Ear bleed loud and crystal clean.
Sounds about right!! Glad it’s working for you!
My Wolfram 250.4 has been acting up. Ft passenger channel died, so set as 2 channel. 2 channel for several months, but recently when i turn it on whole left side is out, but comes on after a couple minutes. Been scheming for a Jp 284 and an Audio Dynamics DSP. Watching this has reaffirmed my decision to go with the d4s amp. 😎
They been doing me good for a while now, and when it's time for more power, I'll probably be looking at them first. Hope you get back loud quickly!
That is really how they sounded from your mic! From that distance! 👌
Yea they did pretty decent!
wow an xB owner that still uploads
Shiiiit I’m just getting started!
At least spray adapters with rhino liner to protect t from water. Mdf will swell up From water and moisture. Good job on the build💯💯
That’s not a bad idea at all. In my mind, I was going to swap em out for something better before that became an issue, but there’s really no reason to at least seal em up.
Thanks for the info! And I appreciate the compliment on the build, it’s a work in progress
Deadening and sealing the doors is annoying but so worth it.. I went cheap and used rubberized window flashing
Absolutely agree! And it doesn’t matter what you used if you got the results you were after. If you managed to save some money AND get what you wanted, I’d call that a double win
@@DaBadNewz I researched it first and if it was a nicer vehicle I wouldn't have. Said possible fumes on hot days, no issues
Yea that would be a concern for me too, but if it’s not being an issue for you, that’s something worth looking into
Thanks for the motivation just burnt up my sub few weeks bk cuz I was clipping because I was being lazy so just got the avatar stu 12 n it's still setting here till I do the big 3 n add 2 batt so I don't blow 300$lol when I go to do my door speakers I'll b watching again
Hey man sometimes we gotta learn the hard way...but those lessons stick!! I bet you don't do that again!
And yea man that big 3 is super important to feed those amps properly.
And shiiit any questions along the way man, don't hesitate! I got an amp tuning video coming up pretty soon (it's for a 4 channel for my mids and highs, but the idea is the same)
That’s a great sub but I recommend a driver that has much more sensitivity as u will not be clipping as much at higher volumes. I definitely recommend getting ur electrical up but in the meantime u can run some more efficient drivers that require less power. But more importantly set ur gains with an oscilloscope and don’t touch them no matter what. U can work around ur electrical issues with your enclosure and efficient drivers. But unfortunately nothing from Alphard other than the Arnold’s and Sylvester’s have high sensitivity which is why u don’t here quite as much raving about the avatar and 4500 series require even more power….
Thanks for your insight!
Rule a thumb I always run my power wire along the bottom of the car on the outside and feed it in to the rear where the amp is. that way, it is completely separate and no interference.
I was definitely considering that, but figured for a single run of 1/0 it would be a waste of engineering lol. When the system grows a bit, that’s probably gonna be the way. Thanks for the info!
How’s the d4s amp treating you? Any issues?
I love it! It’s been going strong with no issues since I got it. I’ve never even felt it get much warmer than room temp. I’ll probably be looking into them first for whatever my next amp is.
You also need to put a set of fans on the sides of your amplifier rack so the inside of the racks air gets circulated or the air will constantly heat up.
Yea that’s the plan when I have more power. For now neither of my amps gets any more than slightly warner than room temperature.
u need more followers glad i clicked on this video ur great at content creation
I appreciate that man, and I absolutely agree! I'm still trying to figure out how to work with this algorithm. I really appreciate that feedback though man, cool to know people out there enjoyin the content
A wire coat hanger works good man
yea I'm definitely gonna have to try that in the future, seems like it would work perfectly.
Thanks for the info!
I also have an interference sound and use a jp amp. I’ve used a different head unit and both r high quality, one was new actually, and ran completely different rcas through the middle on top of seats and all to test and I still have it. Not sure if it’s a d4s amp issue or what. The only other thing it could be is a ground loop which I doubt bc I tried different ground as well😂 only hear it during little pauses in songs and when nothing is playing tho so not worried
Hope not! Just got mine!
But I don’t think it is the amp (at least in my case), since it’s only really present in the right speaker.
Either way, just a lil more volume and it goes away lol
Flip your D4S amplifier so the internals will be visible, and I believe the D4S amplifier has lighting inside as well. Bling!!
They don’t have the lighting in them from the factory, but it’s easy enough to add it. And yea I thought about mounting it that way, but for now I wanted it to match the other amp
If you want more Bass brotha do what Car Audio Fabrication did and use rivets around those openings on your door and cut some mdf boards or HDPE or other types of plastic to match the openings and then connect using bolts into the rivets through the newly cut boards. Treat with foam and dampening mats. Kinda makes little subs boxes
That’s a great idea! I been meaning to make some of those for a while now, but it’s been kinda low priority.
Thanks for reminding me to come back to that!
@@DaBadNewz ya brotha! Watch his videos on it, he’s a big channel and does a lot of high end work. He went through how to do it exactly and seemed like it would make a huge impact. It should be “how to add more mid-bass” on the Car Audio Fabrication page, it’s 10 years old but still holds true
@-Chuckles yea I know exactly what video you’re talking about. Been watching that dude for years! Learned a lot from his channel
@@DaBadNewz facts! Love your vids too keep them up!
@@-Chuckles definitely! Thanks for the support and the suggestion man!
Doing it for the people
Thanks for checking it out!
On my scion the driver side is about impossible to run wire thru the boot because there is a fuse box or computer thing blocking the boot. I got it ran on the outside for now until I build my doors. Are you going to build some doors man? Because this is the same thing I did but I always want more lol. Started with a 3 piece component set then made pods for 3 more Arnold's. Now I'm going to add 3 more Arnold's to each door. But man the jp234 is a beast that's for sure. I've been running it at 1.3 ohms each channel for over a year and it makes those Arnold's scream. But that 284 is definitely enough for a pair of Arnold's 👍
Yea it was pretty tight near the driver side too, had to go around it.
And yea full doors is definitely coming, I’m just doing the build in phases. First bass, then mids n highs, then outside speakers, then start it all over again with more/better lol
But damn I bet those doors can do some nasty distance! And yea so far the 284 been keeping me happy
why you didnt use a power distribution block?
Didn’t really need it at the time. Both power wires come straight from the battery and there’s no other accessories for now, but I DO plan on using one in the future when I move my battery to the back
Hell yeah bro looking good !
Thanks man! My doors got some bark to em now!
I have 4 of the Deaf Bonce Arnold 6.5's and they are amazing!! Thanks for your videos basshead brother 🙏
Glad you like them! I only got the 2 for now, but now that I have them I definitely want more.
And thank you for checking them out man!
Great install! I'm a pro EVT and I'll say those boots suck but you did good. Tape your wires to 3mm fiberglass rod and detach the boots which will straighten them out. Klein makes some good cable lubricant too. A seatbelt bolt is also more than adequate ground if it's bare metal. Keep it up man!
At least I had the right idea! Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll make sure I’m a little better prepared next time.
And thanks for checking out the video man!
Passenger side boot is stiffer bcs the door gets used less. If you got compressed air, you could try using a light string with some plastic bag tied to the end and blast air into the boot and catch the string. Use the string to pull cables. Thx for this channel ima learn some stuff.🤙
That makes sense. And thanks for the tip, I haven’t heard that one yet! One of the cool things about having this channel is all the shit I learn in the comments, like this wire-sail idea!
I wanna try that now just because it sounds interesting.
Thanks for sharing!
Those sound 🤌🏼 could some bad news be coming to the rear doors🤔😁 man those speakers are nice man I need some mids bad I'm still running my stock head unit but will definitely be upgrading once I get some mids that are worth it👍🏻
Just might be! (Or maybe kick panels, not sure yet).
And yea I love em man! These things get down!
And yea I definitely recommend a new head unit…getting it clean at the source is super important for sound quality
@@DaBadNewz have you come up with something for the cubby holes on the back walls yet?
@scu-dub maaaaan that’s the most elusive spot on these cars! I definitely got some ideas, but the problem is that I have too many ideas!
So for now…nah not really lol
@@DaBadNewz 🤣 I feel you bro it's like they're there for something but it's hard to do something with them lol my @$$ would have some 6×9s in em or something lol maybe even a couple amps lmao ✌🏼
Yea I’ve seen amps in there, and I feel like speakers is almost the default option.
Idk, whenever I figure it out, you know there’s gonna be a video!
What kind of wire crimper do u use how u liking it
I been using this one for a few years now: amzn.to/4afg2xE. Been really happy with it! The numbers on the dies are kinda funky, but the actual crimps it does are money. I'd buy it again if I needed another one.
Nice video man I haven’t seen a video from u in a while but remember ur last video and like ur content and delivery. FYI I run Deafbonce , PRV and MMATS Audio and I like the Arnold’s they get loud but they play about 2500 hz higher than other 6.5” drivers putting them well into the midrange area. This is another reason they sound louder than other brands but they aren’t the loudest 6.5” drivers my MMATs Neos get louder on way less power than my Arnold Neos and have a warm flat sound . But if u don’t really need more midbass and like their sound that’s cool. I prefer my PRV and MMATs Neos u should check them out. Also u can make ur own extremely durable and indestructible speaker adapters using HDPE or a cutting board from any dollar store. U can also use jb weld to make glue them together to make the speaker adapter to the desired thickness. HDPE will last longer than any other material you could use u can even use threaded inserts to attach them to the door panel. Just make sure u use a resilient gasket material like between them in the door like cork or weather stripping tape it should be able to handle water . Water will get in ur doors at some point also put heat shrink over the speakers terminals so they don’t rust out if they get wet. And u can make a cover to shed water off the speaker in case it drips down from the window. www.webstaurantstore.com/choice-10-x-6-x-1-2-white-polyethylene-cutting-board/4071065WH.html?GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oB5KqXXymDmwCSK_uo4NypH0NFHjdi_yn9v2k44BoYHeJqZ9hTD4ixoC0UcQAvD_BwE
First, thank you! I appreciate the compliment and coming back to check out the latest. I’m doing weekly videos now so hopefully you come back!
And it’s funny you mention those PRV and Mmats because I was looking at both when I bought my Arnolds (but ferrites). And tbh, part of my final decision came down to color scheme, because after looking at a few comparable speakers in the same price range, I decided in my mind it really didn’t matter what I got, as long as I got away from what I had lol.
And the cutting board!! I never heard that one before, but I definitely see how it could work. I’m all for repurposing shit like that.
Imma be keeping my eyes out for whatever I’m cutting up into my new speaker adapters.
Thanks for the info man! Super helpful
@@DaBadNewz No problem you made a video a while back when i think u installed your alternator and I haven’t seen u in a while until I saw this video. But is that the same scion or before did u repaint it or get another? On another note I have been into car audio for atleast 20 years and in that time I learned a lot about custom installs and alot of DIY. I have more than 30 hours or spray foam experience in dodge neon not to mention, fiberlglass work, box building and all different types of installation hacks and techniques I’ve learned. For the cutting boards just sand down the sides ur gluing together so the epoxy will bond them together better HDPE is an amazing material. As u will see it’s the most amazing material for speaker adapters and very affordable they even come in different colors on that link I sent. The reason I haven’t run my Deafbonce on top of the fact I didn’t want my midrange to play so high is I still don’t have a 4518 and a vehicle with enough electrical and an AAK 8000 to push it yet when I get some other stuff I will do an all Deafbonce build. Unfortunately I’m just building boxes in my basement for the next build even though I have no idea what it’s going on . I will probably do some folded horn enclosures next for one of my stroker 18s which is the sub that got me hooked on car audio. I have to tell u though the PRV 6MR600X-NDY-4 are an amazing driver but I bout the MMATs Neo 600.4 and they’re mind blowing the lighter cone definitely helps them achieve the extra sensitivity. They’re the smallest Neo drivers out and the loudest straight out the box I like how they sound but the PRV have the exact sound I want just not as much SPL. My buddy used to work at MMATs so I got everything at cost ….
@@djrockon5729 ih yea that’s a throwback! That’s actually when I first started really trying to put out car content.
And that build is gonna be nasty! I love the fact that you’re building it before even knowing what you’re putting it in…that’s dedication!
Snd yea I saw at that link they had a Green that looked pretty on point for my build.
Oh and same car, just did some painting to the interior pieces
Bro i love your channel lol always a good time. 🤙
The channel loves you back man! Really appreciate the feedback
USE A WIRE HANGER ITLL WORK PERFECTLY PLUS ITS MORE STIFFER TO USE
WHERE WERE YOY WHEN I DID THE WORK?! Lol nah jk, thanks man! So many people have told me about that since I made this video that I’m surprised I didn’t already know that trick. But next time, I’m DEFINITELY using some wire coat hangers.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks for sharing! 👊🏾
No problem at all man, thanks for tuning in!
You push a metal coat hanger through and tape your speaker wire to it and pull it through your door
Maaaaaan, where tf were you at when I did that passenger side?! That definitely seems like a better option…I was close with the chopstick!
Thanks for the info man!
Sounds good 👍 U planning to upgrading the subwoofer too ?
Thanks! And yea definitely! First I’m bringing the rest of the system up to match, (midbass, tweets, some outside speakers), then starting back with the bass.
(So probably not for a lil while, but definitely on the agenda)
That's what's up I'll b looking forward for those videos
I appreciate that!
Hey, buddy, I'm installing 100 rms mid speaker, which gauge wire I should use in and in 800 rms sub. Please help me in this. God bless 🙌
I've been happy with the Down4Sound 14g lddy.no/1khqc
Maybe *slightly* bigger than you need, but leaves you some room to upgrade in the future if you want!
Hope this helps, good luck!
Boss, did you have to cut much material out of your speaker baffle for the 6.5 Deaf Bonce Arnolds?
I just ordered 4- 6.5" Arnolds for my Explorer front Doors.
Oh nah those speaker baffles wouldn’t even almost fit. Magnet on the back was way fatter than the baffles. Baffles just sitting on the shelf with the old speakers.
Hope you enjoy em! They been really nice to me so far
@DaBadNewz not talking about the foam things. The speaker mounting ring you used to mount the speaker to the door with.
@DaBadNewz I will have some DS18 6.5 mids for your companion at the bass meets if he wants them. Free!!
When did Ethan Hawk start installing stereo equipment? Lmao!!! Good job, bro! New subscriber, dig the charisma man.
That’s definitely a new one, but I hope you don’t mean at his current age!
And thanks for checking it out!
@@DaBadNewz no brother. S young Ethan Hawk, lol!
🔥🔥corridos all the way
If it slaps, it plays!
(Plus, that’s the best way to show off some midrange with all the horns and guitars)
Did you figure out that white noise in between songs? My korean ds18 has that problem, but my wires are on the correct side, separated from rcas and speaker wire. Im about to place my order for the mini max or the regular 5 channel version and a jp23 v2 today with the sale goin on. Lmk bro.
Not really, but tbh I never did what I figured would fix it (running power wires down the center, signal down the sides).
It’s also pretty minimal. Like when I cruise with my dog, I sometimes don’t have anything playing and it’s still quiet.
I DID have some REALLY BAD noise/interference after my first competition run, but that turned out to be loose RCAs.
And those minimax are decent! I was pretty surprised by how much they get down for how small they are
@DaBadNewz going back and forth on the gloss black jp23 v2 with the mini max gloss black 5 channel. They don't sell the gloss black regular 5 channel colorway for some reason. Either that or the gray or flat black matching larger regular sized ones. Is the 4 channel like 6 pounds you'd say?
@DaBadNewz do you hear it coming from the tweeters mainly you think? Compression drivers make noise even directly off my sony xav ax6000
If that! That thing weighs nothing! Probably around there though.
Nah I’m still on factory tweets for now. I’m like 90% sure it’s just because I’m running speaker wire basically bundled with the power wire all the way from amp to passenger door. Definitely not ideal
I have 8 of these M61AC on a 4 channel 2 on each channel, is that fine? Btw what do you set your HPF at for these?
Depends on the amp, but that should be fine, that's a pretty common way to set things up. For the filters, right now I have my HPF at 150 and the LPF at about 8k. I plan on moving the Lower filter to 250 when I install my midbass speakers though.
Hope that clears things up!
@@DaBadNewzif you lower your HPF to 250 would you change your LPF from 8k to?
I would only change the upper filter if I get some tweeters or horns or something that picks up the signal lower than 8k.
So for example: if I picked up some horns that were made to perform best at like 4k and up, then I might bring the mid speakers down closer to 4k.
You just wanna make sure wherever one filter is set to cut the frequencies, you have another one set to pick them up. (And it’s really just trial and error. You want there to be SOME overlap so you’re not missing anything, but not so much that you get a boost where the 2 signals overlap).
Hope that makes some sense! Let me know if you got any more questions man
Good looking out My G I'm a newbie to this but you made easy and clear you need to be boss with the corridod my nigga
No problem at all man, happy to help! Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment man
Bro lol, I know what you mean by running wires. 💯
Yea man! In the end it’s always worth the struggle
Hey bro I had a? How do you tune your amplifiers to your door speakers. I use a 1000 Hz test tone. But for the LPf all the way up and for my subsonic I get confused on that 🤔
I got a video about it coming up where I go into detail, but to try and explain real quick:
The LPF is the low pass filter, basically, you set that at the highest frequency you want your speakers to play. It blocks everything higher and lets the lows pass through (to the speakers). The subsonic is kinda the opposite (and used for subs)...a subsonic filter is for setting the lowest you want the sub to play (also called a HPF or high pass filter when not used on subs).
To set both of these, you need to look at the specs for your speakers. Most of the time they will list "frequency response" as like 100Hz-4000Hz (this is just example numbers you might find on a 6.5 midrange). You would put you LPF to 4000, and set your HPF to 100, and that way your speakers would ONLY be seeing the frequencies they play well with.
For my DBs I installed, I think I have the LPF around 8000 and the HPF around 150 (based on what the manual said they could handle). So anything lower than 150 and higher than 8k, doesn't go to my mid speakers.
My bad for writing a book! hopefully that helps a lil bit.
Hey thanks bro for the heads up really appreciate that I just get confused sometimes but no worries on your book 😉 it's all good. I'll look for that video so I can check it out it's sometimes I do it for my subwoofers but I always mess up on my mid-range and my tweeters. Good looking out bro keep continuing your great videos 💯🔊🔊
Happy to help man!
Filters can be confusing. I use them in my work all the time and I still have to really think about which one is which.
But yea in the video I do it all step by step, so hopefully that one should clear things up.
Good luck on your build!
Wut sup! I'm currently upgrading my first system on my Gladiator and trying out some SPL fun. I only have 2 10" Sundown SA V2 on a under the seat box. I just ordered JP33 and JP284 too. I'm also looking at those Deaf Bonce Arnold I cant wait to hear yours 8" Arnold with 70hz do you think it will be too much on my overhead sound bar with 4 8" 70hz? What do you think about B2 Audio RAGE8PWR they try to sell it as "move like a sub" there is a video on youtube with Big Jeff Audio. Love your video!
Personally, I think that would be awesome! You would obviously need enough midrange, tweets, and subs to support it, but since midbass seems to be one of the harder things to achieve in car audio, I think overdoing it is the right way to do it.
And as for the B2s, I haven’t heard those specifically, but the other B2s I’ve heard have performed pretty well. I’ll have to see what’s up with those.
And thanks for watching! Should be installing my 8s pretty soon
Bro I got 2 6.5 Arnold’s and 2 DS18 PRO-ZXI6.4BM. What type of amp should I run those 4 with ??
I got mine on a Down4Sound JP284 and I love it so far. Seems like that one would be perfect for you too. There's links in the description to check it out.
Let me know what you end up running!
@@DaBadNewz thank you 🙏🏾 I’ll look into that amp for sure
@@DaBadNewz i ended up getting the JP284 amp bro all I need is the amp wiring kit to connect the four speakers and amp. (I’m new to all this audio stuff) so I honestly don’t know what type of wires I need to get it all installed. I have all the 4 speakers in a panel that will be mounted in the back of my car where the back window is
Nice! You gonna like that one! The amp kit should come with your power, ground, remote, and RCA, so you should just need some speaker wire. I'm running 14ga OFC from Sky High.
You know how you're gonna wire em up? Since they're 2 different speakers I would keep those DS18s and DBs on separate channels (so you can set the filters for each a lil more specific to the speakers)...but they should have pretty similar frequency response anyway.
@@DaBadNewz tbh I don’t know how it’ll be wired up I’m going to have a friend of mine do the installation I just got to get all the necessary parts. For the amp kit, would the Skar 1/0 Gauge 3K watt OFC kit work for it ? As for speaker wire I’ll probably do 14G as well
That looks great bro!👏
Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback
great clip showcasing the extremes of running wires in stock loom. Best to use a plastic rod or a huge wire tie to force through the factory loom as plastic is safer and wont conduct. Never know when ya running blind. Now ya gotta do the back doors.... heheheheheheh.... BDBD/2024
Yea definitely need a plastic rod of some sort for next time. And tbh, I don’t think I’m gonna mess with the back doors. Since I don’t have back seats and the sub sits there, i think I might just skip em UNLESS A SPONSOR WANTS TO PUT SOME SPEAKERS BACK THERE FOR ME
(just in case any are reading lol)
@@DaBadNewzBrah.... you on the right track in regards to SPONSORS... Gotta call em out!!!... As TOOLS go... One day you will be at a GARAGE sale and you will SEE it... a LONG flexible plastic "TOOL".... might have to cut off either end and make it your OWN... Just know I have "tools" in my BOX that I made SPECIFIC... for decades now. INSTALLERS MAKE their own TOOLS back when I was a young'un.... In the 70's people did not even know what an Installer WAS... LOL.... So YES, keep an eye out for a THIN... maybe FIBERGLASS.... If ya REMEMBER from the age old days, there used to be Fiberglass rod used as Antenna Masts... Anything LONG THIN and PLASTIC will do and SOMETIMES.... Ugggggg ya gotta go THROUGH the RUBBER.... jump across... in THAT regard always make sure you are poking through the rubber on the BOTTOM... for water sake... it drains DOWN so. Always gotta remember the WEATHER in regards to them DOORS.... I like watching your stuff so... Keep em coming!.... Mr BAD NEWS.... OH YEAH.... remember Bad News BROWN?.... www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Bad+News+the+wrestler
if ol Bad News popped up on a regular basis in your videos...... SPONSORS... LOL... BDBD/2024
I’m definitely down for repurposing and/or making my own tools! I love that kinda stuff! Snd yea after getting so many suggestions, I think I got a pretty good idea of the type of thing I need, just gotta find it out in the wild now.
And good lookin out on the “poke down” tip…that’s one of those hidden gems! Something small but it really makes a difference.
Thanks for the info man, I appreciate you!
Hey I’m trying! I’m doing weekly uploads now, so that’s a start I think
Good job buddy..much luv from AZ..🔊💣🔊
Thanks! I appreciate that!
@@DaBadNewz im running T2 in door.. just bought 2 pair of T1 6.5 to add to doors soon..after i get new door panels to cut up
Oh nice! My first subs were T2 12s. That's a solid ass series, those doors are gonna scream. On RF amp?
@@DaBadNewz i have -300 watt punch amps for em doors each..not going to crazy..but its coming together..
@@lambertleigh2724very nice! I'm sure they're gonna get down
This GUY!!! Have the XBOX on 4 wheels screaming & booming!! 💯💨🤙 #MajorMajorPROPS. I would love to get my own XBox on 4wheels (its what I call it) one too. I'll stick with my 2013 Nissan Altima as long as I can. 🤙💯
Yup yup! Bought it just to turn it into a rolling speakerbox.
And the sub and amp in this car I originally bought for my 2012 Altima Coupe I had. Really loved that car!
Thanks for checking it out!
@@DaBadNewz Whoa!! You had the coupe? #Nice!!! I've switched stock speakers for some pioneers I'l be getting a new headunit with dvd/cd nav/gps/ etc to match in the future, for now it's the stcok head unit . you're welcome and no problem 🤙💯
@babiboib7 yea man! I loved that car! Still got a few old videos of it on my channel (but they were kinda terrible videos lol).
I bet those pioneers really gonna open up with a fresh head unit!
Just get 2nd battery run ur mids amp off that in back seat lto 6.0 lithium perfect
I have 2 runs of 0 gauge to back battery same as ground thru firewall used grommets to seal them from dirtydj bass head
Yea that’s pretty much the plan, just gathering up all the pieces and figuring out how I’m going to route/mount everything
That’s exactly what I’m getting ready to do. 4 total runs to the back. If I can find one easy enough, I want to repurpose the fat factory grommet for all 4 runs so I don’t have to install 3 more boat grommets
@@DaBadNewz they make small 0 gauge grommets on DJDB website custom made
@@DaBadNewz yeah no water will get in that stock one even if u run all 4 trucker on side of it just make sure wires don’t get cut and spark
Would wiring tweeters in parallel with these blow the tweets since it’s 300rms?? Ik this is probably a dumbass question
that would be one issue (unless you had some 300 rms tweets!), and the other issue would be the filter setting I have these at. The filter on the amp is set so that the frequencies running to these speakers are all below what a tweeter is made for. (So not only would they blow from the power, but there's also just way too much signal in general).
You could still use them if you had crossovers or just hooked them up to the other channels on the amp (which is a more common way of doing it, and the way I'll be doing it when I get new tweeters).
And dumbass questions are the ones you ask AFTER you fucked up. You're trying to skip the fuck up...sounds like a smart idea to me!
Ok I’ll subscribe 😂
I appreciate that!
There going to rattle your box apart lol 😂
if it wasn't for the several boxes of sound deadening throughout the car, you're probably right. These things scream!
@@DaBadNewz Yupe there loud
I can’t wait to install my 8s to pair with them. Gonna have all the midbass!
bro honestly get a better radio i use to have a pioneer and my sound quality wasn’t the best
Which Pioneer did you have? Pioneers have been known to be good and supply proper voltage for a long time. I wonder if you just had a bad model/unit.
Either way though, I DO plan on upgrading it fairly soon since there's just a bunch more features nowadays than when I picked up this one.
What do you suggest?
@@DaBadNewz i had rheumatoid arthritis avh-200ex and honestly i recommend a sony or a alpine one bro
I think it was a Sony I was playing around with at Best Buy...might have to see what they got to offer when I'm ready to swap it out.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Sony does make a good h/u, but personally I'd rather you find an old deh80prs! My system still sounds alot cleaner than most of the radios I install today. I find em for around $400. Tbh it's the most important purchase in anyone's system!
Looking at the specs, it seems pretty decent! I would definitely run one if I found it for cheap. And I definitely agree about the H/Us importance...I always tell people the FIRST thing to swap out should be the source.
I'll keep rockin this AVH-2600bt for the time being (but I'm open to switching).
Thanks for the info!
Bro no disrespect but you sound like little moco
I had never heard of dude, had to look him up. I admit, I kinda hear it! Just sounds like a typical dude from the hood in CA.
That's kinda funny though, thanks for pointing that out!
@@DaBadNewz ua-cam.com/users/shortsJq-_TnTmBw4?si=55clKb-xNHEYkGU3
hey that shit was pretty funny!
Don't like jp amps they clip like there's no tomorrow
I haven’t personally had that experience. My JP284 has been really good to me so far.
Thanks for adding your insight though!