Sr. Usted me ha ayudado mucho a mejorar y reparar mi WJ 2005 4.7 Lt. Eres el único en esta red de UA-cam con esa gran calidad y profecionalismo. Felicitaciones y gracias
I just did this to my original owner 2004 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7. First try I turned the screw in 3/4 of a turn, tested it and it was a bit too fast. I backed the screw to about 1/2 or so in from factory setting and I got the increased fan speed/air flow I wanted. More radiator air flow for free and appreciate it here in central Florida during summertime.
I did this to my 04 with a solenoid I got from the pic a part, got 3 of them actually. Putting hood vents in made a huge difference, put the A/C on and the amount of hot air coming out of the vents is amazing. A huge trans cooler also reduces the load on the radiator.
Hey Martin, thanks for the great vids! During my research on the hydro fan setup for my 2001, I just came across this FORD part that is suppose to be a replacement for the unavailable jeep solenoid; Ford XW4Z-3783-CA - ACTUATOR ASY and the wiring plug for it; Parts Master 84080 2-Wire Multi-Purpose Pigtail Connector for Ford Products
so, the ford actuator fits into the jeep hydraulic fan and doesn’t leak? and you just had to splice/integrate the jeep wires to the ford pigtail connector?
Martin ,thank you for your video, tell me where is the freon pressure sensor in the system, which gives a signal to increase the fan speed? I did not increase the fan speed when you turn on the air conditioner, when the refrigerant escapes through a safety valve, but the solenoid is working, if you throw the connector from the temperature sensor of the engine, the speed increases. Thanks.
Martin's videos are always really helpful. I just did head gaskets and figured I'd try this mod since the fan was out. I have an 04 Overland, and mine has an entirely different solenoid, which does not have the ability to be adjusted. Mine is the 3 pin connector. I compared it to an 02 fan I had , the 02 has a 2 pin connector and a separate ground wire. So, if your solenoid does not have the torx bolt it likely is not adjustable.
Thank you Eric, Yeah unfortunately the the 3 pin solenoid is not adjustable. Even after I made this modification, it did help I was not entirely satisfied due to the Las Vegas heat and remove the hydraulic coling fan and replaced it with an electric with this video. ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
AN EXCELLENT EXPLANATION ON THE FAN BETTER THAN ANY OTHER ON YOU TUBE!! If possible, can you discuss how you know whether the problem is the fan or the power steering pump if you are experiencing hard or no power steering
Hey thanks. Love your videos since I wrecked my 98 XJ crawler and decided to go with the WJ for an overland build. I'll keep watching for when you show the mod.
Very good video, this cooling fan system is also on the gen 3 vipers. I have a supercharged viper that I needed more air flow over the raidator. This was an amazing mod! Thank you
that was an informative video. the funny thing is i have a 2006 jeep commander and have the very same cooling fan setup. i think jeep should have gone another way when it comes to this setup. you can't even swap out the fan for an electric fan that in my opinion would have worked better.
Hi , love your channel. I have a question for my 2010 GC 5.7 with the hydraulic fan set up . Is it possible to have a bad coolant temp sensor even tho the cluster gauge is working and showing the coolant temp reading increase?
That was really informative. I always wondered why the 4.7 had a extensive cooling setup. I wonder if increasing the RPM of the fan above what it normally runs at would cause more wear than what was expected from the factory. At least you can still buy it from them for now.
Been a fan of Martin for some time. Tried the mod as described in the video with limited success. What I discovered is there is a fine line when turning that adjustment screw. Too little and not much of an increase, too much and it goes into airplane mode. After making some very small adjustments, it now spins a fair bit faster at idle and works really well when the temps climb.
Good mod. I'll do it this weekend. Never heard of this mod before. THANKS again, Martin!! Heading to the yard this weekend to pick up an extra air box to do your ram air mod.
You're videos are well done. Great job! A question, CA you replace this system with a new aluminum radiator with electric fans? Seems much simpler Thanks
Martin thanks for the video! Is it possible to make a quarter turn on the solenoid, and then make new indentations to secure the "screw"? I will appreciate your answer!!!
I just replaced the steering pump pressure line about 2 weeks ago. Had I known this was the reason my fan stopped working(hydraulic fan motor not electric) I would have made the change myself. But now its $174 part and .5 hr labor at the shop($183.HR labor).
Had to replace this solenoid...found one in a junkyard and learned it was different than the one in my jeep. Ended up going back and getting the entire fan assembly...what a pain. All fixed now but headed back to Iowa from Tennessee, picked up a new camper. Thinking I could use more cooling and this might do the trick. She tows well, but power is a little low on my non-HO 4.7. Anyway, you mentioned mpg when cranked all the way down, how's it do only half way? And why do you think mpg's were affected? More work for the power steering pump I would guess...??
Yeah getting those fan assembly out is no easy task. The best way is to pull the fan and the radiator out as one. I haven't noticed any decrease in miles per gallon turning it half a turn in. The loss of miles per gallon when I turned it the full turn was due to the extra load it was putting on the power steering pump. PS I'm originally from Iowa been in Vegas since 93.
I really like the hydraulic fan setup. It's intelligent and only ramps up on demand. It doesn't wear out your water pump bearings with like a normal mechanical fan. With that being said, I always felt the fan comes on late to start cooling heavily. I'll see coolant temp up to 210 and oil up past 215 before it'll kick up. Now the other factor is the transmission. Worth noting since I've added an auxiliary cooler my transmission temperatures have been lower. Noticed the fan won't ramp up until the pan temperatures get to about 165-170 which doesn't happen to often. I think I'll find a spare solenoid from a yard, give it a turn and replace mine.
I also replaced my radiator. There was areas that had a lot of dirt packed into the fins that I couldn't see until I got the radiator out. That helped cool it down some. The dirt came from the former owner. I know he used it to play in the dirt and mud.
@@martinbuilt I probably need to replace my radiator again here too. It was done at about 100k miles and I've got about 210k now and I saw a drop of coolant on the bottom between the plastic and and aluminum. Wish they made an affordable all aluminum radiator. The eBay ones "fit" the 01-04 with modifications since there for the 99-00 and they were about 2" taller if I remember correctly. What would be best is if there was a way to reprogram ECU to turn on the fan quicker with coolant temperature rising about 200*
hi ... I've done the mod yesterday and i have turned it 1/3 of a turn .. unfortunately no improvement and the fan didn't speed up ( maybe a very tiny bit 😅) ... I'm planning on turn it to the rest of full turn and see if it would make a difference ... also I've done some testing and found out that if the voltage decreases on the wire that comes from the ecm the fan will speed up and if I ground it like connecting it to the nigative battery the fan will go full speed ... so maybe i will build a circuit that regulates the voltage on that wire what do you think about this? it could be a nice project helping all those people with hydra fan
Love your video...I have a Jeep 2006 Commander with the 5.7 Hemi....Had AC serviced and my mechanic said my ac fan was not spinning fast enough. He recommended to replace it for 2500 bucks....OUCH!! I said nope. I was hoping that this is the issue with mine as well. Can you let me know what part number to look for? And is it easy to replace it while the fan is in place? Thanks Randall
Hi, excelent video I like it so much. Hey I have a problem with a 07 grand cherokee, I have my steering wheel so hard, and I was wondering if this solenoid could be the reason, the power steering fluid level is ok.
You are the man, Have you considered looking into a 04 Dakota electric fan set-up and seeing if that would work? How does one go about getting one of your martin built mugs?
Thank you Chris, I am currently working on a electric fan conversion. I'll take a look at the 04 Dakotas and check out their fan. I'll have to look into the mugs I was just asking a friend of mine about that. I got to figure out how to do a large order to keep the prices down.
Greetings! Excellent videos! I'm from Venezuela. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7L. The problem is the following: the electric fan ( Is hydro) with high temperatures or with the air conditioning gave me a second speed, but now it's not doing it. Could this problem be the same solenoid that you explain in this video? Thanks again.
Yes it certainly could be I would do an ohm reading on the solenoid across the two contacts and you should see somewhere I believe it was around 10 ohms. You'll need to unplug the connector from the solenoid to do this.
The replacement 3 wire solenoid for my 03 Laredo does not have the adjustment screw. So it looks like I will have to go with the electric and clutch fan setup to get more airflow at low speeds. It was worth a shot, thanks for the good videos martin!
Martin! Need some help! What size and type of "O" ring is used on the inlet 1/2" high pressure line that runs from the steering pump and connects to the bottom of the hydro fan? Also, can you confirm the torque setting for this bottom connection, my service manual has an unbelievable 36ft pounds !!! Can that be true? I have an annoying power steering leak at that bottom fitting, rubber "o" ring does not seem to work and I won't tighten to 36ft # on what looks like an aluminum housing!
I’m looking at a 01 WJ and the guy started the jeep without realizing their mechanic had the solenoid unplugged, so the fan ran for a couple minutes and pushed the fluid out. Is there a way to refill that, or would it have to get a whole new assembly at this point? Great videos by the way, very informative!
@@martinbuilt appreciate the insight! I’ll ask them to do that before we test drive. I drove a jeep exactly like this one in high school, so the nostalgia is making me want a second vehicle 😅
Hello everyone. So, I have a question. Does the fan on the G. Cherokee 2001 WJ benzene 4.7 V8 should be spinning when the motor is just running? My fan kicks in when the temperature gage goes over the middle mark. Cooling the motor down a little and switches off... Now its 3 degrees Celsius here now and for some reason my motor is getting hot constantly (then the fan kicks on, cools it to below half mark and so on...) Coolant in the radiator, full and I did the air bobbles bleeding. There is power steering fluid, full. Can someone pls explain or point me in the right direction... THNX! great vids.
Good day Mr Martin I watch your UA-cam’s videos all the time Mann your a genius I’m writing you to ask if you have an extra hydraulic cooling fan solenoid for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 also a driver door wire harness that leads from the truck to the door it has a short that you might want to sale they went out I wire the solenoid straight to the fuse box so when I needed it I hit the switch but now that joker is gone truck over heats looked in half the junk yards on my side of town on luck can you help thanks
Great videos! Question...did this MOD make your power steering easier or lighter? Even after replacing my steering gear, hydraulic fan and power steering pump "AND" using the right fluid, our steering is still harder than we'd like especially at lower speeds.
Good morning thank you very much for this information. Please help me. I have separated the temperature sensor between the air conditioner compressor and the generator. In fact, the solenoid works correctly. The fan entered at a very high speed. What after we have to do because when you turn on the air conditioner or cross a rough sand road that increases temperature and the fan does not increase its speed? Thank you
Have you tried the solenoid mod? If so and your still not satisfied it may be time to convert to a single electric fan. Like I did in this video ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
@@martinbuilt Thank you for your interest. I am from North Africa (Libya). I do not have the electrical equipment required. I want to repair the hydraulic fan. I want to fix the fault. I have followed the steps I mentioned. I have separated the temperature sensor. The fan is working very high. So what to do after and sorry for the many questions and thank you very much
@@naserasas8428 so this tells me that you're ECM, the cell annoyed in the fan all work properly but did you do a modification mentioned in this video that will increase the RPM of the fan by nearly 100% And help the engine to run cooler.
@@martinbuilt Thank you for your interest. You have modified as in the video but remain the same as the previous power. Do we increase the modification by rolling another cycle in the same direction
@@naserasas8428 I would not recommend it the fan will go into high mode all time and you will see your mileage per gallon go down. If your engine is still running hot I would recommend doing a electric fan conversion there's nothing more you can do with that hydraulic fan to make it any better..
Martin, My engine does not get really hot since I did a full service (new radiator, cap, thermostat, water pump, coolant, hoses, and sensor), however my fan still doesn't spin fast. I know that the ECU sends a signal and the hydraulic fan should kick into overdrive mode if it gets above a certain temperature, however like you stated I would like it to do that before it gets to that point (which usually occurs after highway driving for a while then getting gas). I am going to try disconnecting the sensor to see if the fan picks up speed. If it does, where do you think I should start troubleshooting? Also, a random side note, have you ever tried Marine Two-Stroke oil TC-W3 in your gasoline? I think you would be interested in reading up and possibly trying it. Here is a forum regarding the matter, long story short you put 1 oz of this TC-W3 into your gas tank for every 5 gallons of fuel: www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/ I've been doing it on my WJ for over a year now and can't say if it hurts or help, but when I did my hydraulic valve adjusters the top end was clean, no sludge or issues with carbon buildup.
Update: Disconnect the harness to the coolant sensor, started the Jeep up and the fan was spinning the fastest I have ever seen it. CEL came on for P0118 (Coolant Temp sensor high input) over-ride the ECU and kicked the fan into hyper-mode. When I shut off the engine, reconnect the harness, the fan barely spun as it usually does. I know that if I am in a pinch I could disconnect that harness, but I would rather find a way to get it to kick on sooner and not have it running full speed the whole time the sensor was disconnected. Do you know if there is any way to have this occur? Is there a way to install a manual over-ride where I could put full voltage to the system if I feel the engine is getting too hot? I know you did the e-fan conversion, not trying to do that if there is a solution with current set-up. Thanks Martin
@@JF32304 how big of magnet did you use Jesse ,did you just stick it where the torch head is ,did you disconnect the solenoid to make the magnet work ,RSVP,? Thanks Jesse .
another great vid Martin. my steering is very hard to the left at stand still. have just fitted a new pump but still hard to the left at stand still. any ideas? cheers. keep up the good work.
That's weird, I'm kind of wondering if there's something wrong with the steering gear box. You may want to remove the tie rod end at the pitman arm and then turn your wheel left to the right and see if it's still hard and if so it would be the steering gear box
I have been trying to research this. My wife’s GC is a 2006 with the 5.7 and currently runs this hydraulic fan set up. I have never had any trouble with it yet. I do need a new radiator for it. The plastic is leaking now after so many years of use. I am assuming the radiators for the GC are the same wether it be gas, diesel? But I am not finding a listing for a radiator for the GC with the 5.7. It only shows the 3.7, 4.7, and 6.1. Is there a difference in the mounting flanges or anything? Or do they all use the same radiator?
My 06 Jeep Commander 5.7L gives occasional vibrations which can be felt on the whole car. It only happens when the temp guage reaches the middle. Do you think its due to the fan being off balance? No codes except for a knock sensor circuit DTC.
Hello Martin I have a wj 2001 4.0 and I already bought the fan relay and got the radiator fan working , wanna put the fan clutch and fan to get some more cooling what do you recommend? Thanks.
Hey Martin, great video. I'm getting P1499 for hydro fan solenoid. But I am also getting O2 sensor error codes. Is it true that the fan solenoid shares the position #16 fuse with O2 sensors?
@@martinbuilt That was it. I unplugged O2 sensors and hydro fan. Fuse #16 blew . Checked the wiring, no joy. I took it to an auto electrical specialist. A cracked wiring harness near the trans. Thanks for saving me a ton of hassle
Hey Martin great video! how did the half turn mod work out in the long run? Did it provide adequate cooling or Was the Jeep still heating up in traffic and stop and go? I’m thinking about doing this mod as well.
It did help quite a bit I had temps around 10 to15 degrees cooler but not enough for me. I'm wanting the most and the best performance I can get out of this 4.7 ended up switching to an electric fan. Here is the video on that conversion ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
hey Martin thanks for the reply. I did see your you E fan conversion video, it was awesome but too much for me since I’m sort of a novice! I did the solenoid mod today and after install everything seems great. Had a question though. I don’t know if you remember or not but when you did the mod and started the car for the first time did the fan kick up really fast at about a medium rpm(somewhere between idle speed and full blown airplane mode) and then slow down to a lower rpm when the car came up to operating temperature? Sorry for the super long message.
Hey Martin! I had the hydraulic fan solenoid 1499 Check engine light code so I replaced my fan with a junkyard hydro fan and it's solenoid looked like it was in great condition. I got everything back together and cleared the Code with my blue tooth device but it popped right back on.. do you know how to get rid of this code? My only other thoughts were to disconnect the battery for a while then try resetting the code or have it professionally reset. I'd hate to think I'd have to replace another solenoid. Maybe I actually have a short in the solenoid wiring??? ☹️ Your thoughts?
do you know how to force high rpm of this Hydraulic Fan without drb III ? I have a problem with bleeding. My car does not overheat, but the new pump howls all the time
Sorry for the late reply. Theory I don't need. When disconnect the cable of the temperature sensor, the fan go to safe mode and work well. The problem is when the car is at idle and the fan do not move. I changed the oil and tune the solenoid as you did. And now is moving. thank you. My question is if i will need the solenoid, where can i buy on new? I live in Portugal and is not so easy. Again thank you for your support and videos.
@@ivodospenedos3714 You can not buy a new solenoid. If you need a replacement you have to buy used. Chrysler only sells the whole fan assembly for over $1000.00
@@martinbuilt Ford XW4Z-3783-CA - ACTUATOR ASY www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU718Q and the wiring plug for it; Parts Master 84080 2-Wire Multi-Purpose Pigtail Connector for Ford Products www.amazon.com/dp/B00B93K7SW
I have a problem want to share with you. My car has a hydraulic cooling water system. The wings aren’t working properly, they are sometimes turn on and sometimes not. When it needs a high U-turn, it doesn’t turn on. But for the low U-turn (in the city) it/wings are working just normal and fine. I‘ve changed the water temperature measuring system, but it doesn’t help. Can you help me and suggest me what can be the problem? Can this problem caused of solenoid? Thanks a lot in advance and waiting for your answer :) BR, Levan
Unfortunately something must have been lost in translation. A lot of what I'm reading doesn't make sense. But I believe what you're saying is that you're hydraulic fan is not working properly. Try unplugging the temperature sensor the hydraulic fan should go into high. If it does your solenoid is working properly.
@@martinbuilt Hello Martín, I have a problem with the fan and it is that it does not cool me well because it rotates slowly why is that? Should I change the solenoid or temperature sensor? Please... i need your help, master
HOLY CROW Martin, I never knew this existed, WHAT A CONTRAPTION THEYV'E BUILT. I have 2 ZJ'S with the clutch fan & want to convert to electric this year still doing research but HELL COMPARED TO YOUR SET UP MINE SHOULD BE CAKE. How did you figure out about the adjustment on that solenoid ? THANKS FOR YOUR WISDOM & YOUR TIME, Henry.
I will also be taking out this hydraulic fan currently mocking up the electric fan.. After seeing some pictures of the solenoid on the internet I had a feeling if you turn that screw one way or the other it was going to affect the RPM of the fan.
Hello, my vehicle has a 2.7 fan, it goes into fast mode at approximately 105 degrees, the vehicle cannot be disassembled until those components, what could be the reason for this?
Martin, have you ever ran across where it seems like the fan ramps up to speed a day late and a dollar short? Seems like when I'm doing low speed climbing in mine the engine gets hot then once I stop and raise rpm's the fan will come on real heavy and cool the engine down quickly. changed the fluid with fresh ATF+4, even flushed it before I changed the fluid. Would you recommend giving this mod a shot?
Hi, I am looking for a solution to increase the fan speed of a jeep grand cherokee WK 3.0 crd, is it possible to do the same for this engine? Is it possible to speed up the fan in WK 3.0 crd?
Hi Martin, I've got the 3 wire solenoid on my 04 & from what I've been reading it seems im out of luck on this mod. I have 2 questions about it though: do you know how to get the 3 wire solenoid out & if so could i just put a modded 2 wire solenoid in its place? Or if this won't work could i put a variable resistance switch in line with the coolant temp sensor signal wire to vary the voltage the ecu sees to up the fan rpm?
I'm unfamiliar with the 5.7 and it's cooling system. But if it has the hydraulic cooling fan with that same solenoid I would imagine you could do the same mod. I know some of these hydraulic cooling fans came with a three wire solenoid and I haven't found one yet to experiment on.
@@boomali1317 yeah that's what concerns me, you're saying the solenoid is different you may not know until you actually take it out and see if it has the same adjustment screw like the 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mine has electric and clutch fan both were fail I got electric one going it holding but clutch fan is tough with out air hammer wrench my brother has shop 04 4.0 I seen some one put dodge 03 fan in had same thread but had to cut shroud
It seems my fan assembly has a mind of it's own and can be quite moody at times. Somethings wrong if my fan spins at idle at say 150 rpm but after a 30 min drive when shes sitting idling for a couple minutes she'll go up to 210 due to the fan not spinning. I have to manually spin it by hand to get it going. Strange part is there isn't much resistance. I did the troubleshoot routine and found that the fan goes into default mode when the ECT sensor is disconnected but when I turn my ac on the rpm doesn't change. Your advice would be greatly appreciated Martin, thanks. -Alec
@@martinbuilt yes it goes airplane mode when I disconnect the ECT sensor, no codes. The fan only works when it feels like it. I drove it for 45 mins today then let it idle for a few after the drive and the fan decided it wanted to work haha. Kept the coolant temp at 201 but last night after a 20 min drive at operating temp I let her idle and she climbed to 220 and the fan STILL wouldn't kick on until I turned it by hand to get it started then it spun up to around 300 rpm and cooled the system down to 208. Seems to me like it might be the fan motor itself
Could you please send a link to where you purchased the electric fan and controller. I live in South Africa and would like to do this mod to my 2003 WJ 2.7 CRD
Flex-a-lite 31165 Variable Speed Control Module amzn.to/2Hnpjca Flex-a-lite 31163 Variable Speed Control Module with Threaded Temperature Sensor amzn.to/2HrxCnA The electric fan I used from a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.9L but you can use fans from a 97 Mercury Villiger or Lincoln Mark 8 and others
Got a question for you... I have an 01 WJ, hydraulic fan setup on it. A while back the fan lost all power, after a bunch of trial and error I've narrowed it down to it being a broken wire somewhere between the fuse block and the solenoid. So what I did was just cut and splice in a new wire from the solenoid to the fuse block and my fan works great now. However, I now have a check engine code P0051 "circuit low bank 2 sensor 1" which is the sensor that's fused on the same fuse the fan solenoid is. Thoughts on how to get the check engine light off?
Hi Martin, thanks for all the great videos. I have a question I hope you'd answer. My hydraulic fan spins at around 500rpm but won't ramp up higher as the temp increases, except if I pull the temp sensor and it goes into safe mode. I've tested the resistance across the terminals of the hydraulic fan solenoid (it's a two wire to the solenoid and one ground to the fan) and I get 16 ohms, you say it's meant to be 10ohms,could that be an explanation why the fan isn't ramping up gradually when receiving a pulsed ground from the pcm but does go into full rpm when it gets a full ground from the safe mode signal? Also, could increased resistance in the solenoid be why I'm not getting a check engine light for the solenoid, maybe the CEL is triggered on a short in the solenoid but won't show a warning in an increased resistance scenario. I don't really know what a higher resistance in the solenoid means to the working of the system or how that can happen in the solenoid. My guess is that it will require a higher current to open it then it normally would require, is that right? Would it not just draw the higher current it needs, or is the fact it's operated by a pulsed ground mean it only gets a set current due to the specific pulses and can't draw more? Thanks again for the precise information you provide in the videos and comments. I hope to get your thoughts on this? PS, my car remains at 97 - 99 C most of the time, and it's fine at idle, but on hot days, after a 40 minute drive, if I slow down or am climbing a hill, it starts creeping up to 103 and will hit 107 before I turn on the heat to bring it down.
I wish this video wasn’t so old. I just noticed my fan blowing are out vs sucking the air into the engine compartment. I don’t see how it can run in reverse.
Great video, thanks. My wife had our recently acquired high mileage 2004 4.7 WJ overheat in stop & go traffic. It took me a while, even parked next to our suspension modded 1999 4.7 WJ, to figure out the 04 has a hydraulic fan motor (shades of my 1967 Thunderbird windhield wipers!), while the 99 has both engine fan and an electric fan. I've added a couple quarts of water, and will watch this 04 closely. Seems to an old guy like me that a good engine fan, with proper shroud, would be more reliable, perhaps a quality flex fan from the speed shop.
In theory the hydraulic fan should work great unfortunately the ECM is trying to get the engine to 204 degrees even if you put a 180 thermostat in it is only going to delay reaching plus 200 degrees. Even after doing the mod to the solenoid which did help I was still seeing temperatures above 200. I recently did a electric fan conversion and couldn't be happier with the results. Make sure that you bleed the air out of the cooling system by removing that bleed screw (8mm Allen) and let it run for 10 to 20 minutes, do this with a cold engine.
Thanks. I have been thinking seriously of going with an electric fan. They are common, both on vehicles and in the aftermarket, so selection is good. Side note: I wonder if Daimler/Chrysler/Jeep engineered the power steering pump for more output on the hydraulic fan models. Might have a better chance with a hydraulic MileMarker winch (which my friends at Skagit Hydraulics told me is very weak without an auxiliary pump).
@@lanedexter6303 I use the hydraulic fan steering pump on my 98 XJ as I have it ported for hydro assist it definitely moves more fluid then a standard power steering pump
I'm going through an electric fan conversion, how did you get past the low pressure return line from the cooling fan being redirected from the steering box?
@@martinbuilt right! I found out that the pump reservoir has 2 inlets on the low side. I'm wondering if you can just plug one of the returns up and use the same pump with the new pressure hose?
Martin , I have installed a PSC high flow Steering pump in my 02 WJ overland and a cylinder assist to run a bit better the 37s tire that I installed in it but it seems that since the main hose goes first through the hydraulic fan it seems that the oil flow is limited when it goes through it and pump makes a noise when goes over. 2-2.5K rpm, any thoughts on that to prevent ruining any of the mentioned components?
I assuming that the PSC pump is made for that JGC with 2 return lines to the reservoir, perhaps if you tried the solenoid mod this would increase flow and would reduce the noise from the pump.
Hey Martin is it possible to convert the hydraulic fan to electric and have the check engine light off? Also ive been to 3 wrecking yards have 4 solenoid valves that ur changing but my light stays on and if i run ac my 03 4.7 over heats. I live in California's northern central valley and have 2 toddlers need my ac in this 113 degree heat! Any help will be greatly appreciated this hydraulic fan has me confused to all hell... thank you
Nice sleuthing there Martin! Seems these fan units are up to around $1400 retail from the dealers now. If you don't have a leaking front seal or broken blades, and just have a heating issue because the fan is slowing down, this is a really good alternative to running out to the dealer and *Just Empty Every Pocket* . 😁👍👍
Wow... There's no way I'd ever give $1,400 for that hydraulic fan. I'd either go to pick a part and get one for $30 and take a chance with that or do what I just did and convert mine to Electric. I should have that video coming out in the next week or two. My favorite is Justify Every Expensive Purchase
Hey I commented on a post from a few months ago, but if you still have an extra solenoid I'm in need of one got the p1499 code a week ago after buying the fan used
Hi I have an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 cylinder I haven't overheating problem and I think I have a weep hole too but I'm not familiar I didn't know what was my vehicle have this
I have an 04 grand Cherokee I searched on UA-cam and found out you can change those solenoids so I bought one used but in the mean time I had mines direct power as soon as you start it turns on at full power making a loud noice keeps my engine cool but it’s to loud to keep driving with the family. I installed the new and disconnected the power but the fan still does not kick in fan barely spins I can stop it with my bare hands if I tried
Thanks! I just did this to my wj, I might go back and turn it out maybe 1/4 because 1/2 seems like to much. She roars now and stays super cool! My ac still dosent work tho ☹️
Your lucky my ac works great but it overheats like a bitch! Im pissed.off the fan runs full speed.when I unplugged the coolant temp sensor then all of a sudden slows when I plug it back in I'm trying to find the issue
@@isauroalfredobanuelos6342 What I learned was these factory radiators with plastic sides and single deck aluminum, fins can get clogged in places you can't see, and loose cooling efficiency. Also, I found when replacing my radiator, that there is some side wings, that block air from flowing around the radiator sides forcing the flow thru the radiator, looks like cheap flexible rubber. This stuff gets tossed and air just flows around the radiator instead of through it at lower speeds. Its shown as "required" in the factory manual on the 4.7L. Ha, ha, on mine I left it out, just like the previous owner, did not know, and I was under pressure to get back on the road. An ALL ALUMINUM radiator would be best. Also, I found the HPS Performance silicon radiator hoses don't get the stupid endless little leaks at the hose clamps like the factory EPDM radiator hoses. I like the hydro fan setup, but don't let the steering fluid leak or get real dirty, as your cooling depends on this fan moving the correct amount of air.
Here's a question you might be able to answer. I had to change a radiator so I disconnected the fan and I know that that it had the hydraulic cooling lines the vehicle is a 2006 Jeep Commander. On the two lines the one that would be on the driver side was obviously a flare fitting but I noted I could actually just pull the fitting off of the line screw it back up into the (cooler). And then the line actually just pushed up into the bottom of it and clicked in? Any other type of flare fitting I ever had the fitting would slide up the line over the flare and into it's connection. Do you know why I would have a line that would just pull out of the bottom? There was another plastic type of seal piece that would slide up the line and click into the bottom of fitting in between the flare and the connector. But I would think if there is a significant amount of pressure on that left driver side line that it could just popped that line back out????
I personally haven't seen the hydraulic fan in the commander. Sounds like they changed the type of connector since 04. Is there any type of safety lock for that type of connector perhaps it was missing? I would be a little concerned as well if it was something you were able to just pull off by hand.
I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD does anyone know how to get this solenoid off? It looks the same but now spot for a torx and in between the solenoid and the body looks like a nut but it’s very skinny like you need a special skinny wrench 🔧. Seems like a dealer tool for when the do remans and then replace that solenoid. Anyone do this or have ideas how I go about it ?
Well that's solenoid is a lot like a injector it gets poults modulation from the ECM. I doubt the fan itself can damage the selenoid. To test the solenoid unplug the temp sensor the fan should go into high this would indicate that the solenoid is working
that is why Jeep Installed the hydraulic fan on the JGC to give it the towing capacity but it does not perform as it should and that is why I have modified the solenoid to help it run cooler. I have since replaced the hydro fan with an electric one and am very happy with the results. Here is a link to that electric fan conversion. ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
@@martinbuiltIt looks like my spec sheet had the hydraulic fan optioned . It did not come with hitch but the factory had a recall for rear collision support so they added one free of charge. I have a 3000 lb single axle enclosed I use to haul my Goldwing . Mpg sucks but no problem with cooling. Thnx.
So I have read you can ditch the Hydraulic fan setup for a mechanical fan since the water pump already has a threaded stud on it. But when you do that and unplug the pressure switch with the fan it causes a check engine light. Does anyone know how to bypass that so the light does not go on.
You're spoiling my upcoming video . LOL . Yeah I read that too. Actually it's quite easy to fix. You have one or two choices remove the solenoid from your hydraulic fan and plug it back in or get yourself a wire wound 10 Ohm resistor I would suggest using a 100 Watt resistor and wire that to the two wires that went to the solenoid. It would be best to put it in the Stream of air where it can be cooled as a resistor will get warm.
The hydro fan is capable of moving MUCH more air then an electric. Put it in "airplane" mode by disconnecting the coolant temp sensor and start it up, you won't find an efan that moves that much air.
Hello from Spain. I have the same hidraulic fun on my 2002 European Jeep GC 2.7 Crd (Diesel).I do not have temperature problems. When i turn on the car, and it is cool, i have a rare noise from the fun,that disapeer when Hot.What could It be?(.i think in Jeep service do not sell me a good hidraulic fluid). A lot of thanks.GOod Job
Would you know why y 04 Grand Cherokee does not have the ground wire that mounts to the fan housing? I noticed that it looks like your solenoid only has 2 wires in the connector?? My solenoid has 3 wires in the connector. Do you know why? Do I have an upgraded model?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
If I come across one I will see what I can do. You could convert to electric fan like I did and couldn't be happier. ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
Martin, I have problem with the Hydraulic Fan Solenoid, but I dont have idea, where I can Buy a new on. can you help me where I can buy one !! Thanks I Live on Mexico
Unfortunately you cannot buy a new solenoid. Have you checked the fuse to make sure that it is not blown it is the same fuse for the 02 sensor found in the power distribution center under the hood.
Salve. Scrivo dal Italia: ho un problema su una ventola idraulica di rafredamento motore , grand scheroche 2.7 cc d. Non trovo schema eletrico per vedere il problema . Se è possibile aiatarmi a risolvere il problema, saluti buona giornata.
Sr. Usted me ha ayudado mucho a mejorar y reparar mi WJ 2005 4.7 Lt. Eres el único en esta red de UA-cam con esa gran calidad y profecionalismo. Felicitaciones y gracias
I just did this to my original owner 2004 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7. First try I turned the screw in 3/4 of a turn, tested it and it was a bit too fast. I backed the screw to about 1/2 or so in from factory setting and I got the increased fan speed/air flow I wanted. More radiator air flow for free and appreciate it here in central Florida during summertime.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.
Man that seems like an unnecessarily complicated design from Chrysler.Well explained by Martin as always.
Yeah I'm so glad to get rid of that hydraulic fan and go full electric.
@@martinbuilt the fan un my 4.7 jeep cherokee with hydro fan does not speed up when i turn the Ac on and it over heat. what could be the problem
I did this to my 04 with a solenoid I got from the pic a part, got 3 of them actually. Putting hood vents in made a huge difference, put the A/C on and the amount of hot air coming out of the vents is amazing. A huge trans cooler also reduces the load on the radiator.
Your videos have gotten really really good over the years man! Love the work you put into these videos Martin keep it up
Thank you!
@@martinbuilt where u get that hydraulic fan solenoid new
Hey Martin, thanks for the great vids! During my research on the hydro fan setup for my 2001, I just came across this FORD part that is suppose to be a replacement for the unavailable jeep solenoid;
Ford XW4Z-3783-CA - ACTUATOR ASY
and the wiring plug for it;
Parts Master 84080 2-Wire Multi-Purpose Pigtail Connector for Ford Products
Hello, thanks for the info. did you find and install this part?
@@jesusrperezd I found used and tested Jeep part on ebay
so, the ford actuator fits into the jeep hydraulic fan and doesn’t leak? and you just had to splice/integrate the jeep wires to the ford pigtail connector?
Just watched this again. What was the original fan speed vs modified. And what about 1/4 turn thnx a bunch.
Martin ,thank you for your video, tell me where is the freon pressure sensor in the system, which gives a signal to increase the fan speed? I did not increase the fan speed when you turn on the air conditioner, when the refrigerant escapes through a safety valve, but the solenoid is working, if you throw the connector from the temperature sensor of the engine, the speed increases. Thanks.
Martin's videos are always really helpful. I just did head gaskets and figured I'd try this mod since the fan was out. I have an 04 Overland, and mine has an entirely different solenoid, which does not have the ability to be adjusted. Mine is the 3 pin connector. I compared it to an 02 fan I had , the 02 has a 2 pin connector and a separate ground wire. So, if your solenoid does not have the torx bolt it likely is not adjustable.
Thank you Eric, Yeah unfortunately the the 3 pin solenoid is not adjustable.
Even after I made this modification, it did help I was not entirely satisfied due to the Las Vegas heat and remove the hydraulic coling fan and replaced it with an electric with this video.
ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
how do you remove the solenoid type that doesn’t have the torx bolt? that’s what i have
AN EXCELLENT EXPLANATION ON THE FAN BETTER THAN ANY OTHER ON YOU TUBE!! If possible, can you discuss how you know whether the problem is the fan or the power steering pump if you are experiencing hard or no power steering
Hey thanks. Love your videos since I wrecked my 98 XJ crawler and decided to go with the WJ for an overland build. I'll keep watching for when you show the mod.
Very good video, this cooling fan system is also on the gen 3 vipers. I have a supercharged viper that I needed more air flow over the raidator. This was an amazing mod! Thank you
Glad you liked it, I didn't they used the Hydraulic fan on Vipers 🤔
Yep, just about the same years as the WJ's
that was an informative video. the funny thing is i have a 2006 jeep commander and have the very same cooling fan setup. i think jeep should have gone another way when it comes to this setup. you can't even swap out the fan for an electric fan that in my opinion would have worked better.
Hi , love your channel.
I have a question for my 2010 GC 5.7 with the hydraulic fan set up . Is it possible to have a bad coolant temp sensor even tho the cluster gauge is working and showing the coolant temp reading increase?
That was really informative. I always wondered why the 4.7 had a extensive cooling setup. I wonder if increasing the RPM of the fan above what it normally runs at would cause more wear than what was expected from the factory. At least you can still buy it from them for now.
Been a fan of Martin for some time. Tried the mod as described in the video with limited success. What I discovered is there is a fine line when turning that adjustment screw. Too little and not much of an increase, too much and it goes into airplane mode. After making some very small adjustments, it now spins a fair bit faster at idle and works really well when the temps climb.
Good mod. I'll do it this weekend. Never heard of this mod before. THANKS again, Martin!!
Heading to the yard this weekend to pick up an extra air box to do your ram air mod.
Let me now how it turns out.
You're videos are well done. Great job!
A question, CA you replace this system with a new aluminum radiator with electric fans? Seems much simpler
Thanks
Martin thanks for the video! Is it possible to make a quarter turn on the solenoid, and then make new indentations to secure the "screw"? I will appreciate your answer!!!
Yes I don't see why not. Thank you for watching.
I've been watching a lot of videos you like one of the best mechanics I've seen
Thank you, Michael
I just replaced the steering pump pressure line about 2 weeks ago. Had I known this was the reason my fan stopped working(hydraulic fan motor not electric) I would have made the change myself. But now its $174 part and .5 hr labor at the shop($183.HR labor).
Had to replace this solenoid...found one in a junkyard and learned it was different than the one in my jeep. Ended up going back and getting the entire fan assembly...what a pain. All fixed now but headed back to Iowa from Tennessee, picked up a new camper. Thinking I could use more cooling and this might do the trick. She tows well, but power is a little low on my non-HO 4.7. Anyway, you mentioned mpg when cranked all the way down, how's it do only half way? And why do you think mpg's were affected? More work for the power steering pump I would guess...??
Yeah getting those fan assembly out is no easy task. The best way is to pull the fan and the radiator out as one. I haven't noticed any decrease in miles per gallon turning it half a turn in. The loss of miles per gallon when I turned it the full turn was due to the extra load it was putting on the power steering pump.
PS I'm originally from Iowa been in Vegas since 93.
I really like the hydraulic fan setup. It's intelligent and only ramps up on demand. It doesn't wear out your water pump bearings with like a normal mechanical fan. With that being said, I always felt the fan comes on late to start cooling heavily. I'll see coolant temp up to 210 and oil up past 215 before it'll kick up. Now the other factor is the transmission. Worth noting since I've added an auxiliary cooler my transmission temperatures have been lower. Noticed the fan won't ramp up until the pan temperatures get to about 165-170 which doesn't happen to often. I think I'll find a spare solenoid from a yard, give it a turn and replace mine.
I also replaced my radiator. There was areas that had a lot of dirt packed into the fins that I couldn't see until I got the radiator out. That helped cool it down some. The dirt came from the former owner. I know he used it to play in the dirt and mud.
@@martinbuilt I probably need to replace my radiator again here too. It was done at about 100k miles and I've got about 210k now and I saw a drop of coolant on the bottom between the plastic and and aluminum. Wish they made an affordable all aluminum radiator. The eBay ones "fit" the 01-04 with modifications since there for the 99-00 and they were about 2" taller if I remember correctly. What would be best is if there was a way to reprogram ECU to turn on the fan quicker with coolant temperature rising about 200*
hi ...
I've done the mod yesterday and i have turned it 1/3 of a turn ..
unfortunately no improvement and the fan didn't speed up ( maybe a very tiny bit 😅) ...
I'm planning on turn it to the rest of full turn and see if it would make a difference ...
also I've done some testing and found out that if the voltage decreases on the wire that comes from the ecm the fan will speed up and if I ground it like connecting it to the nigative battery the fan will go full speed ...
so maybe i will build a circuit that regulates the voltage on that wire
what do you think about this? it could be a nice project helping all those people with hydra fan
Love your video...I have a Jeep 2006 Commander with the 5.7 Hemi....Had AC serviced and my mechanic said my ac fan was not spinning fast enough. He recommended to replace it for 2500 bucks....OUCH!! I said nope. I was hoping that this is the issue with mine as well. Can you let me know what part number to look for? And is it easy to replace it while the fan is in place? Thanks Randall
Hi, excelent video I like it so much. Hey I have a problem with a 07 grand cherokee, I have my steering wheel so hard, and I was wondering if this solenoid could be the reason, the power steering fluid level is ok.
You are the man, Have you considered looking into a 04 Dakota electric fan set-up and seeing if that would work? How does one go about getting one of your martin built mugs?
Thank you Chris, I am currently working on a electric fan conversion. I'll take a look at the 04 Dakotas and check out their fan. I'll have to look into the mugs I was just asking a friend of mine about that. I got to figure out how to do a large order to keep the prices down.
Greetings! Excellent videos! I'm from Venezuela. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7L. The problem is the following: the electric fan ( Is hydro) with high temperatures or with the air conditioning gave me a second speed, but now it's not doing it. Could this problem be the same solenoid that you explain in this video? Thanks again.
Yes it certainly could be I would do an ohm reading on the solenoid across the two contacts and you should see somewhere I believe it was around 10 ohms.
You'll need to unplug the connector from the solenoid to do this.
thanks for the video.. I had a problem with the 2008 jeep commander 3.0 crd the fan's rpm is slow.. where can i buy the solenoid that you install?
The only place to get them is eBay or salvage yards. Used is the only option.
You do good thinks good job man...All the best
I have same jeep like yours and i learn many thinks from you .
martin thank you your vid is perfect for educating people about a cooling system that many dont know even exist or are unfamiliar with
you are very welcome, thank you for watching.
Dear Martin, Do you recommend converting the hydraulic fan to electric for 2004 - 4.7L Jeep Grand Cherokee?
The replacement 3 wire solenoid for my 03 Laredo does not have the adjustment screw. So it looks like I will have to go with the electric and clutch fan setup to get more airflow at low speeds. It was worth a shot, thanks for the good videos martin!
You could also go all-electric as I did. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html This has been working great.
does the solenoid style without the adjustment screw mount differently? i dont know how to get mine off and mine has no torx bolt
GREAT VIDEO! Please, is it possible to be adjusted on 5.7 HEMI as well? Many thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate that I'm glad you liked it. I am not familiar with the 5.7 solenoid.
There are some that are not adjustable on the 47 as well.
Martin! Need some help! What size and type of "O" ring is used on the inlet 1/2" high pressure line that runs from the steering pump and connects to the bottom of the hydro fan? Also, can you confirm the torque setting for this bottom connection, my service manual has an unbelievable 36ft pounds !!! Can that be true? I have an annoying power steering leak at that bottom fitting, rubber "o" ring does not seem to work and I won't tighten to 36ft # on what looks like an aluminum housing!
I've been wondering how I could get it to run faster. Tried messing with the 3 pin connector with no luck. Thanks man👍
I’m looking at a 01 WJ and the guy started the jeep without realizing their mechanic had the solenoid unplugged, so the fan ran for a couple minutes and pushed the fluid out. Is there a way to refill that, or would it have to get a whole new assembly at this point? Great videos by the way, very informative!
I personally would try refilling the power steering pump with the proper fluid and see how it goes.
@@martinbuilt appreciate the insight! I’ll ask them to do that before we test drive. I drove a jeep exactly like this one in high school, so the nostalgia is making me want a second vehicle 😅
Like Your channel very much. I'm from Armenia. Will be glad to see the front and rear axle alignment! Thank U.
Hello everyone. So, I have a question. Does the fan on the G. Cherokee 2001 WJ benzene 4.7 V8 should be spinning when the motor is just running? My fan kicks in when the temperature gage goes over the middle mark. Cooling the motor down a little and switches off... Now its 3 degrees Celsius here now and for some reason my motor is getting hot constantly (then the fan kicks on, cools it to below half mark and so on...)
Coolant in the radiator, full and I did the air bobbles bleeding. There is power steering fluid, full. Can someone pls explain or point me in the right direction... THNX! great vids.
Good day Mr Martin I watch your UA-cam’s videos all the time Mann your a genius I’m writing you to ask if you have an extra hydraulic cooling fan solenoid for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 also a driver door wire harness that leads from the truck to the door it has a short that you might want to sale they went out I wire the solenoid straight to the fuse box so when I needed it I hit the switch but now that joker is gone truck over heats looked in half the junk yards on my side of town on luck can you help thanks
Great videos! Question...did this MOD make your power steering easier or lighter? Even after replacing my steering gear, hydraulic fan and power steering pump "AND" using the right fluid, our steering is still harder than we'd like especially at lower speeds.
It made no difference
Good morning thank you very much for this information. Please help me. I have separated the temperature sensor between the air conditioner compressor and the generator. In fact, the solenoid works correctly. The fan entered at a very high speed. What after we have to do because when you turn on the air conditioner or cross a rough sand road that increases temperature and the fan does not increase its speed? Thank you
Have you tried the solenoid mod? If so and your still not satisfied it may be time to convert to a single electric fan. Like I did in this video ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
@@martinbuilt Thank you for your interest. I am from North Africa (Libya). I do not have the electrical equipment required. I want to repair the hydraulic fan. I want to fix the fault. I have followed the steps I mentioned. I have separated the temperature sensor. The fan is working very high. So what to do after and sorry for the many questions and thank you very much
@@naserasas8428 so this tells me that you're ECM, the cell annoyed in the fan all work properly but did you do a modification mentioned in this video that will increase the RPM of the fan by nearly 100% And help the engine to run cooler.
@@martinbuilt Thank you for your interest. You have modified as in the video but remain the same as the previous power. Do we increase the modification by rolling another cycle in the same direction
@@naserasas8428 I would not recommend it the fan will go into high mode all time and you will see your mileage per gallon go down. If your engine is still running hot I would recommend doing a electric fan conversion there's nothing more you can do with that hydraulic fan to make it any better..
Martin,
My engine does not get really hot since I did a full service (new radiator, cap, thermostat, water pump, coolant, hoses, and sensor), however my fan still doesn't spin fast. I know that the ECU sends a signal and the hydraulic fan should kick into overdrive mode if it gets above a certain temperature, however like you stated I would like it to do that before it gets to that point (which usually occurs after highway driving for a while then getting gas). I am going to try disconnecting the sensor to see if the fan picks up speed. If it does, where do you think I should start troubleshooting?
Also, a random side note, have you ever tried Marine Two-Stroke oil TC-W3 in your gasoline? I think you would be interested in reading up and possibly trying it. Here is a forum regarding the matter, long story short you put 1 oz of this TC-W3 into your gas tank for every 5 gallons of fuel:
www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/
I've been doing it on my WJ for over a year now and can't say if it hurts or help, but when I did my hydraulic valve adjusters the top end was clean, no sludge or issues with carbon buildup.
Update:
Disconnect the harness to the coolant sensor, started the Jeep up and the fan was spinning the fastest I have ever seen it. CEL came on for P0118 (Coolant Temp sensor high input) over-ride the ECU and kicked the fan into hyper-mode. When I shut off the engine, reconnect the harness, the fan barely spun as it usually does.
I know that if I am in a pinch I could disconnect that harness, but I would rather find a way to get it to kick on sooner and not have it running full speed the whole time the sensor was disconnected.
Do you know if there is any way to have this occur? Is there a way to install a manual over-ride where I could put full voltage to the system if I feel the engine is getting too hot?
I know you did the e-fan conversion, not trying to do that if there is a solution with current set-up.
Thanks Martin
You can throw a permanent magnet on the back of it to have the fan constantly moving. Which is what I did to one of my JGC's. (I'm on my 7th).
Where would you put the magnet?
@@timbenracing right behind the coil of wire. It will pull the rod to allow the fluid to flow and kick on the fan.
@@JF32304 awesome thanks for the quick response. You mean right on the screw head right? Where it holds the solenoid in?
@@timbenracing no problem man! Yeah put it right on the screw head... I used a rare Earth magnet... Really got that fan going!
@@JF32304 how big of magnet did you use Jesse ,did you just stick it where the torch head is ,did you disconnect the solenoid to make the magnet work ,RSVP,? Thanks Jesse .
another great vid Martin. my steering is very hard to the left at stand still. have just fitted a new pump but still hard to the left at stand still. any ideas? cheers. keep up the good work.
That's weird, I'm kind of wondering if there's something wrong with the steering gear box. You may want to remove the tie rod end at the pitman arm and then turn your wheel left to the right and see if it's still hard and if so it would be the steering gear box
@@martinbuilt thanks Martin. ill give that a go at the weekend. I never thought of that.
Great vid, thanks for all the info! Hey what oilfilter are you running?
Thank you. I appreciate that.
I am using a Baldwin B2 oul filter.
I have been trying to research this. My wife’s GC is a 2006 with the 5.7 and currently runs this hydraulic fan set up. I have never had any trouble with it yet. I do need a new radiator for it. The plastic is leaking now after so many years of use. I am assuming the radiators for the GC are the same wether it be gas, diesel? But I am not finding a listing for a radiator for the GC with the 5.7. It only shows the 3.7, 4.7, and 6.1. Is there a difference in the mounting flanges or anything? Or do they all use the same radiator?
My 06 Jeep Commander 5.7L gives occasional vibrations which can be felt on the whole car. It only happens when the temp guage reaches the middle. Do you think its due to the fan being off balance? No codes except for a knock sensor circuit DTC.
Hey that was good info. I haven't messed with my cooling system much but I need to try this. With my demands I could use the added cooling (airflow)
Glad it was helpful!
i cant find anything on your channel for clutch replacement if you dont have a vid can you suggrest a vid for this: 3.7 dodge dakota sxt
Hello Martin I have a wj 2001 4.0 and I already bought the fan relay and got the radiator fan working , wanna put the fan clutch and fan to get some more cooling what do you recommend? Thanks.
I Martin. Could you indicate me which oil (ref, name) is recommended for the fan/steering hydraulic system? Thank you again.
MS5931 should be the only fluid be used in the JGC with an hydraulic cooling fan.
Hey Martin, great video. I'm getting P1499 for hydro fan solenoid. But I am also getting O2 sensor error codes. Is it true that the fan solenoid shares the position #16 fuse with O2 sensors?
Thank you ,
That is true you most likely have a blown fuse.
If it blows again after replacing a fuse I would check your wiring to your 02 sensors.
@@martinbuilt That was it. I unplugged O2 sensors and hydro fan. Fuse #16 blew . Checked the wiring, no joy. I took it to an auto electrical specialist. A cracked wiring harness near the trans. Thanks for saving me a ton of hassle
Hey Martin great video! how did the half turn mod work out in the long run? Did it provide adequate cooling or Was the Jeep still heating up in traffic and stop and go? I’m thinking about doing this mod as well.
It did help quite a bit I had temps around 10 to15 degrees cooler but not enough for me. I'm wanting the most and the best performance I can get out of this 4.7 ended up switching to an electric fan. Here is the video on that conversion ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
hey Martin thanks for the reply. I did see your you E fan conversion video, it was awesome but too much for me since I’m sort of a novice! I did the solenoid mod today and after install everything seems great. Had a question though. I don’t know if you remember or not but when you did the mod and started the car for the first time did the fan kick up really fast at about a medium rpm(somewhere between idle speed and full blown airplane mode) and then slow down to a lower rpm when the car came up to operating temperature? Sorry for the super long message.
@@xmanzcovers4434 No, mine seemed to operate normally, just at higher RPM then before and never close to airplane mode.
Hey Martin! I had the hydraulic fan solenoid 1499 Check engine light code so I replaced my fan with a junkyard hydro fan and it's solenoid looked like it was in great condition. I got everything back together and cleared the Code with my blue tooth device but it popped right back on.. do you know how to get rid of this code? My only other thoughts were to disconnect the battery for a while then try resetting the code or have it professionally reset. I'd hate to think I'd have to replace another solenoid. Maybe I actually have a short in the solenoid wiring??? ☹️ Your thoughts?
check the solenoid with an ohm meter it should read around 10 ohms, that is with the wiring unplugged and only reading the solenoid itself.
@@martinbuilt will do! i think i found the problem... did you know the 02 sensors share a fuse with the hydro fan??? 🤯
@@ProjectDanH really? which fuse is it?
do you know how to force high rpm of this Hydraulic Fan without drb III ?
I have a problem with bleeding. My car does not overheat, but the new pump howls all the time
Dear MARTIN
Thank You for the movie.
Where I can buy the solenoid?
Best regards
Is there something wrong with yours? I have seen them on eBay. I also have a couple of extras.
Sorry for the late reply. Theory I don't need. When disconnect the cable of the temperature sensor, the fan go to safe mode and work well. The problem is when the car is at idle and the fan do not move. I changed the oil and tune the solenoid as you did. And now is moving. thank you. My question is if i will need the solenoid, where can i buy on new? I live in Portugal and is not so easy. Again thank you for your support and videos.
@@ivodospenedos3714 You can not buy a new solenoid. If you need a replacement you have to buy used. Chrysler only sells the whole fan assembly for over $1000.00
@@martinbuilt Ford XW4Z-3783-CA - ACTUATOR ASY www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU718Q and the wiring plug for it; Parts Master 84080 2-Wire Multi-Purpose Pigtail Connector for Ford Products www.amazon.com/dp/B00B93K7SW
I have a problem want to share with you. My car has a hydraulic cooling water system. The wings aren’t working properly, they are sometimes turn on and sometimes not. When it needs a high U-turn, it doesn’t turn on. But for the low U-turn (in the city) it/wings are working just normal and fine. I‘ve changed the water temperature measuring system, but it doesn’t help.
Can you help me and suggest me what can be the problem? Can this problem caused of solenoid?
Thanks a lot in advance and waiting for your answer :)
BR,
Levan
Unfortunately something must have been lost in translation. A lot of what I'm reading doesn't make sense. But I believe what you're saying is that you're hydraulic fan is not working properly. Try unplugging the temperature sensor the hydraulic fan should go into high. If it does your solenoid is working properly.
Thanks for your quick reply. I‘m sure now, that the solenoid doesn’t work properly.
Thanks a million:)
BR,
@@martinbuilt Hello Martín, I have a problem with the fan and it is that it does not cool me well because it rotates slowly
why is that? Should I change the solenoid or temperature sensor?
Please... i need your help, master
HOLY CROW Martin, I never knew this existed, WHAT A CONTRAPTION THEYV'E BUILT. I have 2 ZJ'S with the clutch fan & want to convert to electric this year still doing research but HELL COMPARED TO YOUR SET UP MINE SHOULD BE CAKE. How did you figure out about the adjustment on that solenoid ? THANKS FOR YOUR WISDOM & YOUR TIME, Henry.
I will also be taking out this hydraulic fan currently mocking up the electric fan.. After seeing some pictures of the solenoid on the internet I had a feeling if you turn that screw one way or the other it was going to affect the RPM of the fan.
Smart move, I just saw your vid. on the electric fan you're going to put in & REMOVE ALL THAT CRAP.
@@NoWr2Run yep just purchased a few more items to complete the electric fan conversion.
Hello, my vehicle has a 2.7 fan, it goes into fast mode at approximately 105 degrees, the vehicle cannot be disassembled until those components, what could be the reason for this?
how do you test the solenoid to determine if it's still good and working (besides installing the fan back in the engine bay)?
Using a ohm meter test across the two connections you should see approximately 10 ohms. This is with the wiring disconnected of course
Martin, have you ever ran across where it seems like the fan ramps up to speed a day late and a dollar short? Seems like when I'm doing low speed climbing in mine the engine gets hot then once I stop and raise rpm's the fan will come on real heavy and cool the engine down quickly. changed the fluid with fresh ATF+4, even flushed it before I changed the fluid. Would you recommend giving this mod a shot?
You aren't supposed to use ATF+4 in these pumps. It'll bog down or even break your fan
Hi, I am looking for a solution to increase the fan speed of a jeep grand cherokee WK 3.0 crd, is it possible to do the same for this engine? Is it possible to speed up the fan in WK 3.0 crd?
Do u now what type of oil take those power steerings
Hi Martin, I've got the 3 wire solenoid on my 04 & from what I've been reading it seems im out of luck on this mod. I have 2 questions about it though: do you know how to get the 3 wire solenoid out & if so could i just put a modded 2 wire solenoid in its place? Or if this won't work could i put a variable resistance switch in line with the coolant temp sensor signal wire to vary the voltage the ecu sees to up the fan rpm?
I don't think there's any easy way to convert to the single wire solenoid.
Never mind, I just watched your video on installing an electric fan! I'm going to do this, but probably use a crown vic e fan set up.
Thanks again
Yes the crown Vic and Lincoln Mark 8 and even the Mercury villager fans work well.
You help me so much ,is the same with 2005 jeep grand cherokee 5.7L?
I'm unfamiliar with the 5.7 and it's cooling system. But if it has the hydraulic cooling fan with that same solenoid I would imagine you could do the same mod. I know some of these hydraulic cooling fans came with a three wire solenoid and I haven't found one yet to experiment on.
@@martinbuilt a diferent solenoid but the same system. I want to be sure before adjusting the piece to half the clock that will run just like you.
@@boomali1317 yeah that's what concerns me, you're saying the solenoid is different you may not know until you actually take it out and see if it has the same adjustment screw like the 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mine has electric and clutch fan both were fail I got electric one going it holding but clutch fan is tough with out air hammer wrench my brother has shop 04 4.0 I seen some one put dodge 03 fan in had same thread but had to cut shroud
It seems my fan assembly has a mind of it's own and can be quite moody at times. Somethings wrong if my fan spins at idle at say 150 rpm but after a 30 min drive when shes sitting idling for a couple minutes she'll go up to 210 due to the fan not spinning. I have to manually spin it by hand to get it going. Strange part is there isn't much resistance. I did the troubleshoot routine and found that the fan goes into default mode when the ECT sensor is disconnected but when I turn my ac on the rpm doesn't change. Your advice would be greatly appreciated Martin, thanks.
-Alec
Are you saying when you disconnect The temperature sensor at the fan does go into ariplane mode‽
Do you have any codes?
@@martinbuilt yes it goes airplane mode when I disconnect the ECT sensor, no codes. The fan only works when it feels like it. I drove it for 45 mins today then let it idle for a few after the drive and the fan decided it wanted to work haha. Kept the coolant temp at 201 but last night after a 20 min drive at operating temp I let her idle and she climbed to 220 and the fan STILL wouldn't kick on until I turned it by hand to get it started then it spun up to around 300 rpm and cooled the system down to 208. Seems to me like it might be the fan motor itself
Could you please send a link to where you purchased the electric fan and controller.
I live in South Africa and would like to do this mod to my 2003 WJ 2.7 CRD
Flex-a-lite 31165 Variable Speed Control Module amzn.to/2Hnpjca
Flex-a-lite 31163 Variable Speed Control Module with Threaded Temperature Sensor amzn.to/2HrxCnA
The electric fan I used from a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.9L but you can use fans from a 97 Mercury Villiger or Lincoln Mark 8 and others
Got a question for you... I have an 01 WJ, hydraulic fan setup on it. A while back the fan lost all power, after a bunch of trial and error I've narrowed it down to it being a broken wire somewhere between the fuse block and the solenoid. So what I did was just cut and splice in a new wire from the solenoid to the fuse block and my fan works great now. However, I now have a check engine code P0051 "circuit low bank 2 sensor 1" which is the sensor that's fused on the same fuse the fan solenoid is. Thoughts on how to get the check engine light off?
doesn't the wiring for the solenoid lead to the ECM
@@martinbuilt It does after the fuse block. We tested the wire between the fuse and the solenoid and discovered it was broken.
Hi Martin, thanks for all the great videos.
I have a question I hope you'd answer.
My hydraulic fan spins at around 500rpm but won't ramp up higher as the temp increases, except if I pull the temp sensor and it goes into safe mode.
I've tested the resistance across the terminals of the hydraulic fan solenoid (it's a two wire to the solenoid and one ground to the fan) and I get 16 ohms, you say it's meant to be 10ohms,could that be an explanation why the fan isn't ramping up gradually when receiving a pulsed ground from the pcm but does go into full rpm when it gets a full ground from the safe mode signal?
Also, could increased resistance in the solenoid be why I'm not getting a check engine light for the solenoid, maybe the CEL is triggered on a short in the solenoid but won't show a warning in an increased resistance scenario.
I don't really know what a higher resistance in the solenoid means to the working of the system or how that can happen in the solenoid.
My guess is that it will require a higher current to open it then it normally would require, is that right? Would it not just draw the higher current it needs, or is the fact it's operated by a pulsed ground mean it only gets a set current due to the specific pulses and can't draw more?
Thanks again for the precise information you provide in the videos and comments.
I hope to get your thoughts on this?
PS, my car remains at 97 - 99 C most of the time, and it's fine at idle, but on hot days, after a 40 minute drive, if I slow down or am climbing a hill, it starts creeping up to 103 and will hit 107 before I turn on the heat to bring it down.
Thanks alot. My jeep will work tomorrow
I wonder why the mileage decreased? Perhaps increased load on PS pump?
Yes exactly what I think happened as well.
The power steering pump had to work harder to spin the fan that fast.
Do you know if the fan assembly off the the jeeps will work on the srt10 pickup?
Hey John yeah sorry I don't know if that would work I've never even had the honor of looking underneath the hood of a SRT pickup.
I wish this video wasn’t so old. I just noticed my fan blowing are out vs sucking the air into the engine compartment. I don’t see how it can run in reverse.
Yeah I can't say I've ever heard of that and don't see how it's even possible. 🤔
Great video, thanks. My wife had our recently acquired high mileage 2004 4.7 WJ overheat in stop & go traffic. It took me a while, even parked next to our suspension modded 1999 4.7 WJ, to figure out the 04 has a hydraulic fan motor (shades of my 1967 Thunderbird windhield wipers!), while the 99 has both engine fan and an electric fan. I've added a couple quarts of water, and will watch this 04 closely. Seems to an old guy like me that a good engine fan, with proper shroud, would be more reliable, perhaps a quality flex fan from the speed shop.
In theory the hydraulic fan should work great unfortunately the ECM is trying to get the engine to 204 degrees even if you put a 180 thermostat in it is only going to delay reaching plus 200 degrees. Even after doing the mod to the solenoid which did help I was still seeing temperatures above 200. I recently did a electric fan conversion and couldn't be happier with the results.
Make sure that you bleed the air out of the cooling system by removing that bleed screw (8mm Allen) and let it run for 10 to 20 minutes, do this with a cold engine.
Thanks. I have been thinking seriously of going with an electric fan. They are common, both on vehicles and in the aftermarket, so selection is good. Side note: I wonder if Daimler/Chrysler/Jeep engineered the power steering pump for more output on the hydraulic fan models. Might have a better chance with a hydraulic MileMarker winch (which my friends at Skagit Hydraulics told me is very weak without an auxiliary pump).
@@lanedexter6303 I use the hydraulic fan steering pump on my 98 XJ as I have it ported for hydro assist it definitely moves more fluid then a standard power steering pump
I'm going through an electric fan conversion, how did you get past the low pressure return line from the cooling fan being redirected from the steering box?
In this video, I did the E-fan conversion. ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
@@martinbuilt right! I found out that the pump reservoir has 2 inlets on the low side. I'm wondering if you can just plug one of the returns up and use the same pump with the new pressure hose?
Martin , I have installed a PSC high flow Steering pump in my 02 WJ overland and a cylinder assist to run a bit better the 37s tire that I installed in it but it seems that since the main hose goes first through the hydraulic fan it seems that the oil flow is limited when it goes through it and pump makes a noise when goes over. 2-2.5K rpm, any thoughts on that to prevent ruining any of the mentioned components?
I assuming that the PSC pump is made for that JGC with 2 return lines to the reservoir, perhaps if you tried the solenoid mod this would increase flow and would reduce the noise from the pump.
Hey Martin is it possible to convert the hydraulic fan to electric and have the check engine light off? Also ive been to 3 wrecking yards have 4 solenoid valves that ur changing but my light stays on and if i run ac my 03 4.7 over heats. I live in California's northern central valley and have 2 toddlers need my ac in this 113 degree heat! Any help will be greatly appreciated this hydraulic fan has me confused to all hell... thank you
ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html yes this video explains how
Could this be the reason my 04 jeep is over heating ???
Nice sleuthing there Martin! Seems these fan units are up to around $1400 retail from the dealers now. If you don't have a leaking front seal or broken blades, and just have a heating issue because the fan is slowing down, this is a really good alternative to running out to the dealer and *Just Empty Every Pocket* . 😁👍👍
Wow... There's no way I'd ever give $1,400 for that hydraulic fan. I'd either go to pick a part and get one for $30 and take a chance with that or do what I just did and convert mine to Electric. I should have that video coming out in the next week or two.
My favorite is Justify Every Expensive Purchase
So to be clear, is this modification/adjustment made to the solenoid that came with my fan assembly from the factory?
yes
Quise sacar ese selenoide y nadamas salio una parte. Como daconlanotra sin dañarlo
I changed the solenoid out, the code came back on. Any ideas on what else might be the issue.
Hey I commented on a post from a few months ago, but if you still have an extra solenoid I'm in need of one got the p1499 code a week ago after buying the fan used
Hi I have an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 cylinder I haven't overheating problem and I think I have a weep hole too but I'm not familiar I didn't know what was my vehicle have this
If you're losing fluid from the weephole on the water pump I would replace the water pump ASAP.
I have an 04 grand Cherokee I searched on UA-cam and found out you can change those solenoids so I bought one used but in the mean time I had mines direct power as soon as you start it turns on at full power making a loud noice keeps my engine cool but it’s to loud to keep driving with the family. I installed the new and disconnected the power but the fan still does not kick in fan barely spins I can stop it with my bare hands if I tried
There may be something wrong with your fan motor. You could try modifying the solenoid as I've shown in the video and see what that does for you.
Thanks! I just did this to my wj, I might go back and turn it out maybe 1/4 because 1/2 seems like to much. She roars now and stays super cool! My ac still dosent work tho ☹️
Your lucky my ac works great but it overheats like a bitch! Im pissed.off the fan runs full speed.when I unplugged the coolant temp sensor then all of a sudden slows when I plug it back in I'm trying to find the issue
@@isauroalfredobanuelos6342 What I learned was these factory radiators with plastic sides and single deck aluminum, fins can get clogged in places you can't see, and loose cooling efficiency. Also, I found when replacing my radiator, that there is some side wings, that block air from flowing around the radiator sides forcing the flow thru the radiator, looks like cheap flexible rubber. This stuff gets tossed and air just flows around the radiator instead of through it at lower speeds. Its shown as "required" in the factory manual on the 4.7L. Ha, ha, on mine I left it out, just like the previous owner, did not know, and I was under pressure to get back on the road. An ALL ALUMINUM radiator would be best. Also, I found the HPS Performance silicon radiator hoses don't get the stupid endless little leaks at the hose clamps like the factory EPDM radiator hoses. I like the hydro fan setup, but don't let the steering fluid leak or get real dirty, as your cooling depends on this fan moving the correct amount of air.
Here's a question you might be able to answer.
I had to change a radiator so I disconnected the fan and I know that that it had the hydraulic cooling lines the vehicle is a 2006 Jeep Commander.
On the two lines the one that would be on the driver side was obviously a flare fitting but I noted I could actually just pull the fitting off of the line screw it back up into the (cooler). And then the line actually just pushed up into the bottom of it and clicked in?
Any other type of flare fitting I ever had the fitting would slide up the line over the flare and into it's connection.
Do you know why I would have a line that would just pull out of the bottom?
There was another plastic type of seal piece that would slide up the line and click into the bottom of fitting in between the flare and the connector. But I would think if there is a significant amount of pressure on that left driver side line that it could just popped that line back out????
I personally haven't seen the hydraulic fan in the commander. Sounds like they changed the type of connector since 04. Is there any type of safety lock for that type of connector perhaps it was missing? I would be a little concerned as well if it was something you were able to just pull off by hand.
I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD does anyone know how to get this solenoid off? It looks the same but now spot for a torx and in between the solenoid and the body looks like a nut but it’s very skinny like you need a special skinny wrench 🔧. Seems like a dealer tool for when the do remans and then replace that solenoid. Anyone do this or have ideas how I go about it ?
I have the same one .. any ideas ??
Got another question, can a solenoid get damaged due to over heating of the fan?
Well that's solenoid is a lot like a injector it gets poults modulation from the ECM. I doubt the fan itself can damage the selenoid. To test the solenoid unplug the temp sensor the fan should go into high this would indicate that the solenoid is working
Is the hydraulic fan part of the upgrade needed for the tow package??
that is why Jeep Installed the hydraulic fan on the JGC to give it the towing capacity but it does not perform as it should and that is why I have modified the solenoid to help it run cooler.
I have since replaced the hydro fan with an electric one and am very happy with the results.
Here is a link to that electric fan conversion.
ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
@@martinbuiltIt looks like my spec sheet had the hydraulic fan optioned . It did not come with hitch but the factory had a recall for rear collision support so they added one free of charge. I have a 3000 lb single axle enclosed I use to haul my Goldwing . Mpg sucks but no problem with cooling. Thnx.
@@dannyw7662 all 2001-2004 JGC WJ with a 4.7 came with a hydrualic fan, trail hitch or not.
@@martinbuilt ah ok thnx
So I have read you can ditch the Hydraulic fan setup for a mechanical fan since the water pump already has a threaded stud on it. But when you do that and unplug the pressure switch with the fan it causes a check engine light. Does anyone know how to bypass that so the light does not go on.
You're spoiling my upcoming video . LOL . Yeah I read that too. Actually it's quite easy to fix. You have one or two choices remove the solenoid from your hydraulic fan and plug it back in or get yourself a wire wound 10 Ohm resistor I would suggest using a 100 Watt resistor and wire that to the two wires that went to the solenoid. It would be best to put it in the Stream of air where it can be cooled as a resistor will get warm.
The hydro fan is capable of moving MUCH more air then an electric. Put it in "airplane" mode by disconnecting the coolant temp sensor and start it up, you won't find an efan that moves that much air.
Hello from Spain. I have the same hidraulic fun on my 2002 European Jeep GC 2.7 Crd (Diesel).I do not have temperature problems. When i turn on the car, and it is cool, i have a rare noise from the fun,that disapeer when Hot.What could It be?(.i think in Jeep service do not sell me a good hidraulic fluid). A lot of thanks.GOod Job
The hydraulic fan requires a special fluid, This is one of the approved fluids
Red Line 30404 Power Steering Fluid - 1 Quart Bottle amzn.to/2U8VtAe
Would you know why y 04 Grand Cherokee does not have the ground wire that mounts to the fan housing? I noticed that it looks like your solenoid only has 2 wires in the connector?? My solenoid has 3 wires in the connector.
Do you know why? Do I have an upgraded model??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
I believe they're just grounding through the metal of the solenoid, eliminating the wire.
Hi Martin, would you have a similar solution for the hydraulic fan system which is on the 06' Commanders and Grand Cherokee with the 5.7? Thank you.
If I come across one I will see what I can do. You could convert to electric fan like I did and couldn't be happier. ua-cam.com/video/J02nYci5DS0/v-deo.html
Martin, I have problem with the Hydraulic Fan Solenoid, but I dont have idea, where I can Buy a new on. can you help me where I can buy one !! Thanks I Live on Mexico
Unfortunately you cannot buy a new solenoid. Have you checked the fuse to make sure that it is not blown it is the same fuse for the 02 sensor found in the power distribution center under the hood.
Salve. Scrivo dal Italia: ho un problema su una ventola idraulica di rafredamento motore , grand scheroche 2.7 cc d. Non trovo schema eletrico per vedere il problema . Se è possibile aiatarmi a risolvere il problema, saluti buona giornata.
Hello, please tell me how you can increase the fan speed for the 2004 solenoid 3 contacts?
I haven't had a chase to check out the 3 wire solenoids yet. When I see one at the local Pic-a-Part I'll grab it and see what I can do.