I'm gonna tell you a story I have a 2013 Dodge ram 1500 started overheating don't know why so I changed out the water hose the thermostat still was overheating so I Changed out the Fan clutch new radiator new water pump still overheating I was at a low point of giving up Then I ask God for help he showed me your video I want to personally thank you sir your video just made my day now my truck Has stop overheating Working fine now GOD BLESS YOU
I identify with this comment. Having issues, I kept saying my heat was too hot..they kept saying it's 20 years old.. just fill overflow, I wouldn't do it.. I WANTED TO KNOW WHY IT KEPT HAVING TO BE REFILLED. I just sent this and another non dodge sponsored video, to my son in law for our LEARN A NEW THING A DAY DURING COVID.. LOL In this video I learned also about the valves and can check those too.. I love this truck. The guy sold it to me maintained it for 18 years, now everyone wants me to just run it to the ground. I refuse. It was getting 18 to 20 mpg, now it's at 15. Because everyone said it couldn't be fixed. And this video shows what my concern was. You can't just fill overflow and be done, so many bring it to mechanic or dealer. When the issue is the bleeding and pressurization. I hope I saved it, by not driving it while trying to troubleshoot it.. Everyone involved has learned a new thing, that this engine needs to be serviced correctly and not just fill overflow. So many can't get it, because they always just fill overflow in other vehicles. This is not the same type if system.. so get a her kit in your truck.. because if you have to add antifreeze, it's not a quick fix, until you can do this process in the middle of the night with no light.. lol and it's 22 degrees.. but after you do it a couple times when it's convenient, you might not get stuck like that. . These tutorials are great.. even I can follow them.. I just need extra muscle to get the bolts out.. lol
Powerade , that’s a new one , how long should I let run and should I do this twice three times ? Should I put ac on high ? , should I push the coolant hoses , do I put cap on while cars on or off ,
YOUR OWN ASSUMPTIONS ELUTIONS IMIGOUSE THOUGHTS THAT GOD OR WHITE JESUS BLANCO DID ANYTHING FOR YOU ARE NOT FACT'S , BUT ASSUMPTIONS YOU PERSONALLY CHOSE TO BELIEVE AND HAVE BEEN IMPOSED BRAIN WASHED TOO BELIEVE NOT FACTS
Like many of these other comments I was almost at the point of giving up. I flushed the radiator, change the water pump, changed the thermostat but nothing stopped it from overheating. As soon as I did what you explained in this video I watched the bubbles come out for about 5 minutes. Now it's running perfect this saved my butt, thank you.
A better way to fill and bleed the coolant is to remove that 8 mm plug,take a transmission funnel with the small end and screw it into the bleeder hole where the 8mm plug was,remove the radiator cap,fill the cooling system through the funnel until coolant comes out of the radiator where the cap was.basically you are reverse bleeding it.i do it all the time at the Chrysler dealership I work at.this method works well quickly.
Changed the waterpump the other day and still overheated.. wracking my brain 3 days now as to why, this explained it! Thanks man, I appreciate the video!
Many thanks! My son's 2005 Dodge 1500 4.7 liter overheated. I found that the waterpump was going out. So we replaced it. While there I decided to replace the lower hose. Hence all fluid ran out. Refilled and after a few minutes we overheated again. Upper hose hot and lower cold. That made me think the thermostat was stuck. So I finally found the dang thing. Never found one on the bottom before. Came across your video while looking for pointers on changing the thermostat. Hmm. We didn't do that. Followed your instructions and boom. It stayed at operating temp for a five mile trip in 2nd at 2500-3000rpms. I call this job done. Again thanks!
I was having over heating issues in my 4.7. It has a new water pump, thermostat and housing, brand new radiator and all hoses/clamps. I had no idea I had to do this. It's in an 03 dodge durango. Has 236,000 miles. Thanks man you probably just saved my motor.
This explains so much! Ive never heard about this before and doubt anyone whos owned or serviced this jeep before me knew either. Thank you for your knowledge!
This is the exact reason I’ve had to rebuild my top end twice on my 06 Commander 4.7. Seeing this definitely shows me why I keep having the same issue thanks.
This video saved many lives !! I almost went berserker barrage with a sledgehammer after I switched out my water pump and radiator, and it was still overheating. Thank you!!
THANK YOU! Working on radiator replacement in the next few days. Waiting for parts. You saved me from a serious ASS REAMING from the wife. I can see it now! This radiator is a pain in the ass! I miss the simplicity of my 1970 F100. Thanks again!
Thanks for the info. Just replaced the radiator and could not figure out why it kept spewing now i get it. Good motors but some design flaws for sure. Great to the point video with good volume and clarity. Thanks man
Hey Doug, just wanted to say a quick thanks for posting this one, as well as the water pump replacement video. The water pump started making a rattling/chirping/clanging noise, the bearings were about to give up the ghost. I remembered you had these vids, so I used them to double check that this was as simple of a job as it appeared, and you confirmed that for me. I live in a residential RV park, and they don't want us doing a lot of work on our vehicles here. This water pump was surprisingly quick/easy to replace!
Yea, coming from the 4.0 I was blown away by how easy it was to replace. No paper gaskets to scrape and plenty of room to work. Glad you found this helpful!
Thanks for the help. I just got done doing this on my Ram 4.7. My engine is actually running a little cooler now that I flushed it and put the right coolant in it.
I have a 2003 Ram with a 4.7. Overheated a year ago, replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant, but I hadn't taken it on any long trips or pulled anything since so no problems. Today ,a year later, it was running at the top of the gage after a 50 mile trip. I remember bleeding it, but not quite this way. I will try it and let you know if it helps. Thanks for posting your video.
I just purchased an 04 Ram 1500 with the 4.7. Had it start to run a little warm in a drive thru and two days later this video comes up. I know what I’m going to do soon. Haha. Thank you!
Thank you so much. I was not aware of this procedure. I just replaced the heads and water pump on my 2003 JGC with the 4.7 HO engine. I performed this procedure and successfully removed the air that was in the system. Great content for shade tree mechanic’s like myself.
I've had issues finding videos but yours is best for folks doing repair at home thanks for your time and help. I've had replace everything cooling system wise just finished at 1 this morning
I can't THANK YOU enough! I've already had to replace the engine in my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 because of the dropped seat exactly as you explained ... Was running well until recently, started loosing coolant and not getting heat like I used to... I'm betting the mechanics that replaced the engine and radiator didn't do this .. gonna try it as soon as it cools down 🤞
On my 08 4.7L, I open the bleeder, top if off and close it back up. I run the engine with a Lisle (EPAuto Knock off) Spill Proof Radiator fill funnel with plenty of coolant in it. Run it with the heat on and just keep massaging the upper radiator hose until there's absolutely no air in the system. I've never run it with the bleeder off though. Hasn't been an issue in the 4x I've had to replace the coolant due to a water pump, radiator or just changing it out. But yes, 100% agree that that spot will be the cause of air pockets if you don't open it up and fill it up! Keep up the great vids!!! (Though, by 08, the reworked 4.7L is supposed to not have the valve seat dropping issue.)
Thanks for showing this. I rebuilt my 4.7, and the Chilton manual does not mention removing the bleeder to fill the coolant. What concerns me, is now I'm doubting their torque specs as well. Anyway, thanks again for the vid.
Just replaced my radiator on my 2002 Ram 1500 with the 4.7. Came across your video as I was getting ready to fill the new radiator. Thanks for the vid.
Bro, you just saved me a lot of money. I blew my upper radiator hose, and stumbled upon you and this video and had NO IDEA that you had to "bleed" out the air!! Many thanks for taking the time to show us this!!!
Great advice man! I'm getting ready to do a coolant flush today and I'm so grateful that i ran across your vid. I only wish i knew this a couple years ago. My 4.7L V8 in my Commander overheated for no apparent reason one day on the highway. I pulled over immediately, shut her down to avoid further damage, but it was already to late, motor blown. $6,000 later, my new crate motor just overheated but i was lucky this time and the motors good. I did notice that the guys who put the motor in must've filled the radiator as well and put some green colored shit in there, which was wrong since everyone should know that motor requires HOAT, which is an amber color! If they didnt even do that i doubt that they bled the system as you suggested in your video. Which is possibly why car overheated again. Well, they say if you want something done right then do it yourself and that's why I'm off to do my coolant flush right friggin' now! Peace✌️😁
For what it's worth, Prestone makes a HOAT, Aluminum head compatible antifreeze that is green. I don't think the "only orange" rule still applies 100%. However, unless you personally put it in yourself you can't be sure what it is.
This happed to my 01 Cherokee 4.7, except I pulled over before it got to the H, so far haven’t had any issues so I hope I didn’t do damage to the engine.
My liberty 3.7 L is the same setup. Unfortunately the previous owner wallered out the bleeder fitting and it cannot be removed. I even put some heat on it and vise grips with no luck. I filled mine through the top radiator hose and watched for bubbles in the coolant jug. Took me a couple hours but it finally ran cool. They are a pain in the butt !
I have a 05 jeep with that 4.7. sunk it in some water put a new motor not a used one but new. Put all new sensors ran all new vacuum lines new injectors coils plugs you name it I replaced it. I have a p0172 and p0175 bank 1 and 2 are running rich. I relocated the air filter to the top of the motor. That's the only thing I changed and I took the ac out and put a bypass pulley on it. Vacuum is at 19-20 idle fuel pressure is good 58-60 I'm lost at where to look next. My thoughts now is I put the air filter to close to the motor and it's getting way to hot of a air temp in the chamber. The way I think is the hotter the air into the motor the less oxygen available for proper running conditions. Any thoughts?
This works. I tried to bleed my system by just removing the radiator cap and elevating the front end of the truck and the heat would not come through and I saw no bubbles. I removed the valve he showed and left the cap off and instantly saw bubbles coming from the valve port. But do be aware if you don’t have a wide funnel to catch the coolant you will looses some. And possibly spill onto the engine causing a burning coolant smell. Obviously lol. But after about ten minutes the heat was melt my skin hot so ik it opened up and I shut the truck off and capped everything off. Be sure to take the vehicle on short drives and check the fluid level often when the vehicle is cold. To ensure you have the proper amount of coolant in the radiator, reservoir and engine. The AC blows penguins and the heat blows fire The engine temp stays optimum most of the time right behind the center line. Before it used to run slightly hot. I’ve replaced the water pump, radiator, radiator hoses, and thermostat. So I let a lot of air in. And this method definitely allowed the air to escape.
Thanks for that bit of knowledge. Just replaced my radiator on my 99’ 4.7 and what a job that was. Tranny lines were rusty, ended up with a new tranny cooler also.
Quite similar filling procedure to a Terminator 4.6L. V8.the bleeder is in a steel crossover tube at the front of the motor.A collision center failed to fill properly after repairs.Engine overheated with no warning,damaging the aluminum heads and the oil cooler adapter.Insurance company approved $6,000 worth of repairs.This was very informative,as a friend has one of these with overheating problems.
I just put a new radiator in my 05 dodge Ram 4.7. Now it is overheating and not blowing heat. I got the air bubble out to the best of my ability but didn’t jack up the front end. Messed up thermostat maybe?. Before this the heat worked fine and it didn’t run hot but the rad had a significant leak.
December 7th 10:00 p.m. 2023 I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee just changed out the thermostat and check the fuses because my car was overheating I have been trying to get the air bubbles out of my system like on your video still getting bubbles in my overflow overflow tank have tried to get the bubbles out by opening up the valve at the same time ran car for 40 minutes and I'm still getting next I will try parking on a slope or using ramps to push the air out of my system thank you for your video and skills
Another tip: anything with a secondary heater core, turn the rear hvac unit to heat position (at the rear hvac unit control panel) so that the heater bypass valve opens.. took me 3 times bleeding from completely cold to figure that out.
Just got my 4.7 WK fixed today, was a bad t-stat and needed to bleed the air out which was done. There was such a big air lock in it that kept the coolant from flowing that we cleared up ultimately that all I know, is I'm glad it is done now and I made sure it wasn't getting past the mid-point anymore for 6 mins or so and it stayed at N.O.T. (Normal Operating Temp). Good video.
I have Ram 2500 5.7 with this same exact radiator setup and I’m so glad I saw this because I’m charging mine out today and would have never thought of doing this. Where would I find it on the 5.7 hemi?
Yep, just like V12 Jags. There's a bleeder there so use it. The same thing happens on the Jags - dropped valve seats. The other thing people can't get though their head is that when a modern car ( mostly alloy heads or full alloy engines ) over heats, throws a belt or breaks a coolant hose or whatever you STOP. They still think well we're only 5 miles from home or the shop it'll be ok. Well it won't be ok. Even an expensive tow is way cheaper than a new engine.
You show us after you have already completed the job I Wana Kno how much air we should be looking for to come out I mean I've watched it bubble for hours an still over heat I've replaced the heads timing chains set water pump radiator thermostat I even bypassed my heater core... I'm not sure wat I'm doing wrong ... Be going thru this for months now ...
Thanks. Switching to a 180 thermostat today instead of A 195 and needed this info for how to bleed the system. Now I’m debating if I want to flush the coolant from the block, or just do it from the bottom of the radiator. Previous owner had mostly water in the coolant. Tiny green tent to it. So mostly water and the wrong coolant. Sounding like I just answered my question for myself
"Doesn't have to be too tight, just snug" says the guy who almost had to use a breaker bar to get the plug off.😅 Good vid Doug. I'm one the few I know that had a 4.7L first out of my Jeep group so I had nobody to turn to for engine hints. I learned this trick from a guy on nagca that's a Mopar mechanic. He also confirmed that not doing this is a leading cause of blown head gaskets (due to the higher temps). Keep up the great work.👍
hey when i remove the upper rad bleed screw then remove the rad cap it shoots out of the hole why is this? can i bleed it with the screw still threaded in a bit
Thank you for your video... I've been working on this for almost 2 weeks. Not just this issue, but this is definitely AN issue. Hopefully my last hurdle. Keep the videos coming!!
Question: When replacing the bleeder screw & radiator cap does the engine need to be running or does it need to be off when putting cap & bleeder screw back on? Or does it matter? Thanks for this video, very very helpful info!!
I just replaced a water pump on a 4.7 engine. Just like you said, no matter what I did , it would get hot when I test drove it. Once I watched your video I took out that metal plug and purged the air out and finally got it straightened out. It took a while to get all the air out. Big pain in the ass.
@@DEInTheGarage Drove it 100 miles yesterday with no problems. Today is got hot. Took the thermostat out, still overheating. Took that hex plug out, ran water in it for 10 minutes to burp all the air out. Still over heating. I think the impeller on the new water pump came loose. It’s like it’s not circulating water at all. Water pump was from the Car Quest auto parts store. Car Quest brand. My engine is completely fucked now.
My doin the same thing I changed the thermostat but didn't bleed it I put some in the bleeder valve wit the car what should I do now wait till I coo then take the caps of the radiator and bleed it agin
Most likely you have a leak. I had the same issue. Mine (01 Durango with same engine) was at the auxiliary water pump close to the firewall. It was a slow leak but allowed air in. Add some dye and get the uv blacklight and glasses to find where.
thank you! I replaced my water pump a couple of years ago and didn't know this. last weekend my thermostat went out and she overheated. this time ill know how to do this correctly.
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with the new 4.7 and i have changed all the plugs and wires and the ignition coils and i still have a misfire on cylinder 7 and i even changed the fuel injector and still getting the misfire cylinder 7 code.
Oh man thanks so much. My water pump was leaking and I replaced it. I tried just bleeding with the radiator cap open. Yea I need to do your procedure. I have a 3.7. Thanks so so much for your video bro. Oh Yea!!!
Update. I opened the bleed port when the car was cold. Filled in Antifreeze and ran the vehicle and looked for the air bubbles to stop. Then put the bleed port back on. Then I noticed the heater system worked. Good to go. After the car cooled down I topped up the coolant reservoir. Good to go. Took the truck on a 15 mile drive. Good to go. No leaks.
Great to know that information. Me and the wife are looking at picking up a 2001 WJ 4x4 that someone ran without oil in the 4.7. Another engine change from the PYP coming up for me. This one will be for my middle daughter.
Thank you so damn much.... I'm ripping the engine apart and everything else... friend borrowed it. Been over heating like mad and tried everything... thank you for THIS video my guy. Blessings
I did the same thing, dropped the bolt when removing it and it landed in the abyss somewhere, never did locate it... lol Went to the local parts and hardware store and had a hard time finding a replacement, i think it's a 16 mm with 1.5 thread size.
This is really helpful. I just recently replaced both of my cylinder heads (first time doing it) and after 1k miles i had a blown headgaskets. Wasn't aware of the proper bleeding procedure. No wonder i kept hearing gurgling sound under my dash after i turn off my engine. Did a research about it and found out i have air in my cooling system. You're right. My 4.7 never overheated but it's temp running a bit high than normal. Never passed 210 but close. Now just have to redo everything again and hope everything goes well this time.
@@filipeferreira7019 If you recently replace your cooling system components like radiator, waterpump, thermostat etc. then u proly need to bleed it if there's a gurgling sound in your dash. But u haven't and it makes that sound, im not a mechanic so i can't really give u an answer. You might wanna ask or see your trusted mechanic. But to answer your question after i bleed my system. Yeah it did work! U just have to do it multiple times til u dont see any bubbles coming out yout bleeder valve.
Need help replaced water pump on 4.7 Durango and I’m doing what your showing but still getting hot replaced thermostat and housing with the flush still having same issue
Lower Coolant Rad Hose went on my 08 Ram, so this is crucial cause I am terrified of the “dreaded valve seat failure” and want to make sure I do this right😅
The bleeder screw is superfluous on vehicles that have the expansion tanks. The 4.7L comes with the bleeder screw because the engine is sometimes used on vehicles, like yours; that don't have exspansion tanks. You can help it along if you pop the expansion tank lid when full cold for the first few days after refilling. Make sure you run the heater until it puts out hot air. If it doesn't, you may have a clog in the heater core, or lines. When gas no longer escapes when you pop the expansion tank lid at full cold, you're done.
I wish I would've seen this way sooner. But at least I caught this info before replacing my water pump. I've seen some symptoms of possible valve issues so I'm worried now I'm too late.
Had to change a cylinder head on my 2000 Dakota 4x4. I guess because I changed the head I'm going to run into a much longer bleed period than most? At least now I have info I need to do it correctly. Thanks. 👍
So....at full cool down (2 days at rest), the coolant was gushing out when I started the engine. 05 ram 4.7l. I haven't been able to replicate this video. Am I looking at something bad, or is it normal? There's definitely air in the system because I can hear the brand new water pump cavitating. Water pump was replaced with new oil pump, timing components, fan clutch, t Stat, and radiator. Was not overheating this badly prior to the repairs 🤷🏻♂️
My 2000 Jeep Grand V8, 4.7L runs hot all the time. New radiator, a new water pump, and even bought a new thermostat at the dealer. 190 is too hot for any motor and it gets hotter than this. I have bled out the system 3 or 4 times. Is there a cooler thermostat.???
Should I worry about my valve seats loosening after a short overheat? As soon as it got hot I turned it off. Would you recommend tightening them back to spec on a vehicle with close to 200k?
Nice video man. I just got a 4.7 04 Durango, when I run it, after like around 30 mins if I stop at a light or stop. The temperature gauge will rise to the middle line or a little more above. But if I step on the gas it will go down. What can it be? I just got a thermostat, temperature sensor, and a cap... lol
it's always little sneaky issues like this that kill perfectly fine vehicles... thanks for spreading awareness!!
I'm gonna tell you a story I have a 2013 Dodge ram 1500 started overheating don't know why so I changed out the water hose the thermostat still was overheating so I Changed out the Fan clutch new radiator new water pump still overheating I was at a low point of giving up Then I ask God for help he showed me your video I want to personally thank you sir your video just made my day now my truck Has stop overheating Working fine now GOD BLESS YOU
I identify with this comment.
Having issues, I kept saying my heat was too hot..they kept saying it's 20 years old.. just fill overflow, I wouldn't do it.. I WANTED TO KNOW WHY IT KEPT HAVING TO BE REFILLED.
I just sent this and another non dodge sponsored video, to my son in law for our LEARN A NEW THING A DAY DURING COVID.. LOL
In this video I learned also about the valves and can check those too.. I love this truck. The guy sold it to me maintained it for 18 years, now everyone wants me to just run it to the ground. I refuse. It was getting 18 to 20 mpg, now it's at 15. Because everyone said it couldn't be fixed. And this video shows what my concern was. You can't just fill overflow and be done, so many bring it to mechanic or dealer. When the issue is the bleeding and pressurization.
I hope I saved it, by not driving it while trying to troubleshoot it..
Everyone involved has learned a new thing, that this engine needs to be serviced correctly and not just fill overflow. So many can't get it, because they always just fill overflow in other vehicles. This is not the same type if system.. so get a her kit in your truck.. because if you have to add antifreeze, it's not a quick fix, until you can do this process in the middle of the night with no light.. lol and it's 22 degrees.. but after you do it a couple times when it's convenient, you might not get stuck like that. .
These tutorials are great.. even I can follow them.. I just need extra muscle to get the bolts out.. lol
Powerade , that’s a new one , how long should I let run and should I do this twice three times ? Should I put ac on high ? , should I push the coolant hoses , do I put cap on while cars on or off ,
I'm having the same problem with my 2010 Ram 1500. I changed the thermostat and the temperature went high. I followed the video and now it's good
YOUR OWN ASSUMPTIONS ELUTIONS IMIGOUSE THOUGHTS THAT GOD OR WHITE JESUS BLANCO DID ANYTHING FOR YOU ARE NOT FACT'S , BUT ASSUMPTIONS YOU PERSONALLY CHOSE TO BELIEVE AND HAVE BEEN IMPOSED BRAIN WASHED TOO BELIEVE NOT FACTS
Same here
Like many of these other comments I was almost at the point of giving up. I flushed the radiator, change the water pump, changed the thermostat but nothing stopped it from overheating. As soon as I did what you explained in this video I watched the bubbles come out for about 5 minutes. Now it's running perfect this saved my butt, thank you.
A better way to fill and bleed the coolant is to remove that 8 mm plug,take a transmission funnel with the small end and screw it into the bleeder hole where the 8mm plug was,remove the radiator cap,fill the cooling system through the funnel until coolant comes out of the radiator where the cap was.basically you are reverse bleeding it.i do it all the time at the Chrysler dealership I work at.this method works well quickly.
Thank you sir will try this
Changed the waterpump the other day and still overheated.. wracking my brain 3 days now as to why, this explained it! Thanks man, I appreciate the video!
How long did it take you to bleed all the air out. I am 25 min in and still get bubbles out
@@jakepage2205 it took a GOOD 40 or so minutes.. it was a long while to be honest
@@stephenreynolds9546 that’s what I was reading on all data and ProDemand as well. I hate 4.7s 😂
Many thanks! My son's 2005 Dodge 1500 4.7 liter overheated. I found that the waterpump was going out. So we replaced it. While there I decided to replace the lower hose. Hence all fluid ran out. Refilled and after a few minutes we overheated again. Upper hose hot and lower cold. That made me think the thermostat was stuck. So I finally found the dang thing. Never found one on the bottom before. Came across your video while looking for pointers on changing the thermostat. Hmm. We didn't do that. Followed your instructions and boom. It stayed at operating temp for a five mile trip in 2nd at 2500-3000rpms. I call this job done. Again thanks!
I was having over heating issues in my 4.7. It has a new water pump, thermostat and housing, brand new radiator and all hoses/clamps. I had no idea I had to do this. It's in an 03 dodge durango. Has 236,000 miles. Thanks man you probably just saved my motor.
Glad to be of help! This one almost got me as well on my first 4.7
This explains so much! Ive never heard about this before and doubt anyone whos owned or serviced this jeep before me knew either. Thank you for your knowledge!
This is the exact reason I’ve had to rebuild my top end twice on my 06 Commander 4.7. Seeing this definitely shows me why I keep having the same issue thanks.
This video saved many lives !! I almost went berserker barrage with a sledgehammer after I switched out my water pump and radiator, and it was still overheating.
Thank you!!
THANK YOU! Working on radiator replacement in the next few days. Waiting for parts. You saved me from a serious ASS REAMING from the wife. I can see it now! This radiator is a pain in the ass! I miss the simplicity of my 1970 F100. Thanks again!
I’ve done this procedure on my 3.7, basically same engine layout, it’s no big deal and very easy (simply watch for bubbles and take your time)
Thanks for the info. Just replaced the radiator and could not figure out why it kept spewing now i get it. Good motors but some design flaws for sure. Great to the point video with good volume and clarity. Thanks man
Hey Doug, just wanted to say a quick thanks for posting this one, as well as the water pump replacement video. The water pump started making a rattling/chirping/clanging noise, the bearings were about to give up the ghost. I remembered you had these vids, so I used them to double check that this was as simple of a job as it appeared, and you confirmed that for me. I live in a residential RV park, and they don't want us doing a lot of work on our vehicles here. This water pump was surprisingly quick/easy to replace!
Yea, coming from the 4.0 I was blown away by how easy it was to replace. No paper gaskets to scrape and plenty of room to work. Glad you found this helpful!
Thanks for the help. I just got done doing this on my Ram 4.7. My engine is actually running a little cooler now that I flushed it and put the right coolant in it.
I have a 2003 Ram with a 4.7. Overheated a year ago, replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant, but I hadn't taken it on any long trips or pulled anything since so no problems. Today ,a year later, it was running at the top of the gage after a 50 mile trip. I remember bleeding it, but not quite this way. I will try it and let you know if it helps. Thanks for posting your video.
I just purchased an 04 Ram 1500 with the 4.7. Had it start to run a little warm in a drive thru and two days later this video comes up. I know what I’m going to do soon. Haha. Thank you!
Thank you so much. I was not aware of this procedure. I just replaced the heads and water pump on my 2003 JGC with the 4.7 HO engine. I performed this procedure and successfully removed the air that was in the system. Great content for shade tree mechanic’s like myself.
Really saved my car from being sold. Really thankful for this vid
I've had issues finding videos but yours is best for folks doing repair at home thanks for your time and help. I've had replace everything cooling system wise just finished at 1 this morning
That is a heck of a job! Hope this helped!
I can't THANK YOU enough! I've already had to replace the engine in my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 because of the dropped seat exactly as you explained ... Was running well until recently, started loosing coolant and not getting heat like I used to... I'm betting the mechanics that replaced the engine and radiator didn't do this .. gonna try it as soon as it cools down 🤞
Good luck!!
Same thing happened to in my 4.7L Commander. 6k for a new crate motor, ouch!
Did not know how to purge you just saved me hours, a trip and probably lots of money greatly appreciated
On my 08 4.7L, I open the bleeder, top if off and close it back up. I run the engine with a Lisle (EPAuto Knock off) Spill Proof Radiator fill funnel with plenty of coolant in it. Run it with the heat on and just keep massaging the upper radiator hose until there's absolutely no air in the system. I've never run it with the bleeder off though. Hasn't been an issue in the 4x I've had to replace the coolant due to a water pump, radiator or just changing it out. But yes, 100% agree that that spot will be the cause of air pockets if you don't open it up and fill it up! Keep up the great vids!!! (Though, by 08, the reworked 4.7L is supposed to not have the valve seat dropping issue.)
Good point Doug.Usually,if you have air trapped in the system,your heater will blow cool air.
true!
You should not take the bleeder valve all the way off you lose too much coolant that's what I found loosen the bleeder tell the air starts coming out
Thanks for showing this. I rebuilt my 4.7, and the Chilton manual does not mention removing the bleeder to fill the coolant. What concerns me, is now I'm doubting their torque specs as well. Anyway, thanks again for the vid.
Just replaced my radiator on my 2002 Ram 1500 with the 4.7. Came across your video as I was getting ready to fill the new radiator. Thanks for the vid.
Bro, you just saved me a lot of money. I blew my upper radiator hose, and stumbled upon you and this video and had NO IDEA that you had to "bleed" out the air!! Many thanks for taking the time to show us this!!!
Great advice man! I'm getting ready to do a coolant flush today and I'm so grateful that i ran across your vid. I only wish i knew this a couple years ago. My 4.7L V8 in my Commander overheated for no apparent reason one day on the highway. I pulled over immediately, shut her down to avoid further damage, but it was already to late, motor blown. $6,000 later, my new crate motor just overheated but i was lucky this time and the motors good. I did notice that the guys who put the motor in must've filled the radiator as well and put some green colored shit in there, which was wrong since everyone should know that motor requires HOAT, which is an amber color! If they didnt even do that i doubt that they bled the system as you suggested in your video. Which is possibly why car overheated again. Well, they say if you want something done right then do it yourself and that's why I'm off to do my coolant flush right friggin' now! Peace✌️😁
For what it's worth, Prestone makes a HOAT, Aluminum head compatible antifreeze that is green. I don't think the "only orange" rule still applies 100%. However, unless you personally put it in yourself you can't be sure what it is.
This happed to my 01 Cherokee 4.7, except I pulled over before it got to the H, so far haven’t had any issues so I hope I didn’t do damage to the engine.
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My liberty 3.7 L is the same setup. Unfortunately the previous owner wallered out the bleeder fitting and it cannot be removed. I even put some heat on it and vise grips with no luck. I filled mine through the top radiator hose and watched for bubbles in the coolant jug. Took me a couple hours but it finally ran cool. They are a pain in the butt !
I have a 05 jeep with that 4.7. sunk it in some water put a new motor not a used one but new. Put all new sensors ran all new vacuum lines new injectors coils plugs you name it I replaced it. I have a p0172 and p0175 bank 1 and 2 are running rich. I relocated the air filter to the top of the motor. That's the only thing I changed and I took the ac out and put a bypass pulley on it. Vacuum is at 19-20 idle fuel pressure is good 58-60 I'm lost at where to look next. My thoughts now is I put the air filter to close to the motor and it's getting way to hot of a air temp in the chamber. The way I think is the hotter the air into the motor the less oxygen available for proper running conditions. Any thoughts?
This works. I tried to bleed my system by just removing the radiator cap and elevating the front end of the truck and the heat would not come through and I saw no bubbles. I removed the valve he showed and left the cap off and instantly saw bubbles coming from the valve port. But do be aware if you don’t have a wide funnel to catch the coolant you will looses some. And possibly spill onto the engine causing a burning coolant smell. Obviously lol. But after about ten minutes the heat was melt my skin hot so ik it opened up and I shut the truck off and capped everything off. Be sure to take the vehicle on short drives and check the fluid level often when the vehicle is cold. To ensure you have the proper amount of coolant in the radiator, reservoir and engine. The AC blows penguins and the heat blows fire The engine temp stays optimum most of the time right behind the center line. Before it used to run slightly hot. I’ve replaced the water pump, radiator, radiator hoses, and thermostat. So I let a lot of air in. And this method definitely allowed the air to escape.
My 4.7 Dakota has been overheating like crazy. I am trying thin tomorrow. Thx dude, it this works I’ll be really really happy
Im glad i saw this..guys working on my jeep forgot to bleed it properly, and it kept overheating! Thank you.
Thanks for that bit of knowledge. Just replaced my radiator on my 99’ 4.7 and what a job that was. Tranny lines were rusty, ended up with a new tranny cooler also.
*Thank you, friend! This is a critically valuable piece of information. Bless you for sharing it.*
Saw the port there wasn't sure how to exactly do it so I'm glade you made a video 👍
How long does it take you to get all the bubbles out
Just want to say if it wasnt for you man i wouldnt have my 04 laredo up and running like a charm! Appreciate you man!
That is awesome! I am really glad to hear you found some help in our vids.
Quite similar filling procedure to a Terminator 4.6L. V8.the bleeder is in a steel crossover tube at the front of the motor.A collision center failed to fill properly after repairs.Engine overheated with no warning,damaging the aluminum heads and the oil cooler adapter.Insurance company approved $6,000 worth of repairs.This was very informative,as a friend has one of these with overheating problems.
The 3.7 v6 has the same bleeding procedure if im not mistaken.
thanks man just finished the water pump was going to return it as a possible defect, Whew, what a save.
GREATI VIDEO ..last thing you wanna do is loose the bleeding plug screw , very difficult too come across another one .
I just put a new radiator in my 05 dodge Ram 4.7. Now it is overheating and not blowing heat. I got the air bubble out to the best of my ability but didn’t jack up the front end. Messed up thermostat maybe?. Before this the heat worked fine and it didn’t run hot but the rad had a significant leak.
December 7th 10:00 p.m. 2023 I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee just changed out the thermostat and check the fuses because my car was overheating I have been trying to get the air bubbles out of my system like on your video still getting bubbles in my overflow overflow tank have tried to get the bubbles out by opening up the valve at the same time ran car for 40 minutes and I'm still getting next I will try parking on a slope or using ramps to push the air out of my system thank you for your video and skills
Another tip: anything with a secondary heater core, turn the rear hvac unit to heat position (at the rear hvac unit control panel) so that the heater bypass valve opens.. took me 3 times bleeding from completely cold to figure that out.
Just got my 4.7 WK fixed today, was a bad t-stat and needed to bleed the air out which was done. There was such a big air lock in it that kept the coolant from flowing that we cleared up ultimately that all I know, is I'm glad it is done now and I made sure it wasn't getting past the mid-point anymore for 6 mins or so and it stayed at N.O.T. (Normal Operating Temp). Good video.
It's so simple! Great video. Thank you for sharing this!
I have Ram 2500 5.7 with this same exact radiator setup and I’m so glad I saw this because I’m charging mine out today and would have never thought of doing this. Where would I find it on the 5.7 hemi?
Yep, just like V12 Jags. There's a bleeder there so use it. The same thing happens on the Jags - dropped valve seats. The other thing people can't get though their head is that when a modern car ( mostly alloy heads or full alloy engines ) over heats, throws a belt or breaks a coolant hose or whatever you STOP. They still think well we're only 5 miles from home or the shop it'll be ok. Well it won't be ok. Even an expensive tow is way cheaper than a new engine.
The WJ Gaurdian angel!! Thanks for the video you probably saved my WJ as well
Can you show how to bleed burp 3.9v6 coolant system.
You show us after you have already completed the job I Wana Kno how much air we should be looking for to come out I mean I've watched it bubble for hours an still over heat I've replaced the heads timing chains set water pump radiator thermostat I even bypassed my heater core... I'm not sure wat I'm doing wrong ... Be going thru this for months now ...
didn't see the fan clutch in your list...
Yes do you remove the bleeder screw all the way or just crack it open enough to see the bubbles
Thanks. Switching to a 180 thermostat today instead of A 195 and needed this info for how to bleed the system. Now I’m debating if I want to flush the coolant from the block, or just do it from the bottom of the radiator. Previous owner had mostly water in the coolant. Tiny green tent to it. So mostly water and the wrong coolant. Sounding like I just answered my question for myself
"Doesn't have to be too tight, just snug" says the guy who almost had to use a breaker bar to get the plug off.😅
Good vid Doug. I'm one the few I know that had a 4.7L first out of my Jeep group so I had nobody to turn to for engine hints. I learned this trick from a guy on nagca that's a Mopar mechanic. He also confirmed that not doing this is a leading cause of blown head gaskets (due to the higher temps).
Keep up the great work.👍
Haha.. Yea, from the factory they have loctite on then which is concerning that it seems mine was still factory sealed...
Whew! Good thing i found this video. ‘02 DodgeRam15004.7v8 had a lower hose coolant leak. Drained coolant, changed both upper n lower n thermostat
hey when i remove the upper rad bleed screw then remove the rad cap it shoots out of the hole why is this?
can i bleed it with the screw still threaded in a bit
Thank you for your video... I've been working on this for almost 2 weeks. Not just this issue, but this is definitely AN issue. Hopefully my last hurdle. Keep the videos coming!!
Question: When replacing the bleeder screw & radiator cap does the engine need to be running or does it need to be off when putting cap & bleeder screw back on? Or does it matter? Thanks for this video, very very helpful info!!
Engine should be running to circulate the coolant and bleed out the air. Once all air is out you instal the plug, shut it down and let it cool off
Thanks man, I'm redoing my 03 durango 4.7L water pump and knew this was issue w these 4.7s. But didnt know how 2 bleed. Thanks a TON man. Ryan
Do heater has to be on? Can you also give me an estimate on how much time should i see no more bubbles! Thank great video!!
Yes, having the heater on is good practice, but not required. This process usually takes about 20 minutes
D&E In The Garage also some people bleed the wj with engine off. Which way is it better?
What are the signs of bad valve seats?
Thank you for that video. I have the 4.7 ram and I was wondering what that port was for.
I just replaced a water pump on a 4.7 engine. Just like you said, no matter what I did , it would get hot when I test drove it. Once I watched your video I took out that metal plug and purged the air out and finally got it straightened out. It took a while to get all the air out. Big pain in the ass.
It is a huge PITA, but I am glad you have it sorted now!
@@DEInTheGarage Drove it 100 miles yesterday with no problems. Today is got hot. Took the thermostat out, still overheating. Took that hex plug out, ran water in it for 10 minutes to burp all the air out. Still over heating. I think the impeller on the new water pump came loose. It’s like it’s not circulating water at all. Water pump was from the Car Quest auto parts store. Car Quest brand. My engine is completely fucked now.
My doin the same thing I changed the thermostat but didn't bleed it I put some in the bleeder valve wit the car what should I do now wait till I coo then take the caps of the radiator and bleed it agin
Do you have to remove the thermostat housing completely off to drain the rest or just loosing the housing screws and let drain
How long does this usually take? Have had mine going for 2+ hours now and still bubbling
Most likely you have a leak. I had the same issue. Mine (01 Durango with same engine) was at the auxiliary water pump close to the firewall. It was a slow leak but allowed air in. Add some dye and get the uv blacklight and glasses to find where.
I just rebuilt my 4.7 how long did it take you to burp the system completely? Mines going on 40 minutes now and I still see some bubbles
Doing mine right now, seems to take a while
How long did did it end up taking you if you remember?
thank you! I replaced my water pump a couple of years ago and didn't know this. last weekend my thermostat went out and she overheated.
this time ill know how to do this correctly.
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with the new 4.7 and i have changed all the plugs and wires and the ignition coils and i still have a misfire on cylinder 7 and i even changed the fuel injector and still getting the misfire cylinder 7 code.
Oh man thanks so much. My water pump was leaking and I replaced it. I tried just bleeding with the radiator cap open. Yea I need to do your procedure. I have a 3.7. Thanks so so much for your video bro. Oh Yea!!!
Update. I opened the bleed port when the car was cold. Filled in Antifreeze and ran the vehicle and looked for the air bubbles to stop. Then put the bleed port back on. Then I noticed the heater system worked. Good to go. After the car cooled down I topped up the coolant reservoir. Good to go. Took the truck on a 15 mile drive. Good to go. No leaks.
Thanks agin. It made a huge difference
OMG you have no idea how thankful I am I
Great to know that information. Me and the wife are looking at picking up a 2001 WJ 4x4 that someone ran without oil in the 4.7. Another engine change from the PYP coming up for me. This one will be for my middle daughter.
Good luck with it!
Thank you so damn much.... I'm ripping the engine apart and everything else... friend borrowed it. Been over heating like mad and tried everything... thank you for THIS video my guy. Blessings
So glad you found it useful! Good luck!
I have replaced water pump/thermostat and radiator, still have a small leak, front of the engine, some where.
I did the same thing, dropped the bolt when removing it and it landed in the abyss somewhere, never did locate it... lol
Went to the local parts and hardware store and had a hard time finding a replacement, i think it's a 16 mm with 1.5 thread size.
Exactly what I was looking for..Im.so scared to crack that bleed on my 06 Durango if they threads brake , here we go again.
This is really helpful. I just recently replaced both of my cylinder heads (first time doing it) and after 1k miles i had a blown headgaskets. Wasn't aware of the proper bleeding procedure. No wonder i kept hearing gurgling sound under my dash after i turn off my engine. Did a research about it and found out i have air in my cooling system. You're right. My 4.7 never overheated but it's temp running a bit high than normal. Never passed 210 but close. Now just have to redo everything again and hope everything goes well this time.
Mine does the gurgling sound aswel wen shut off. Did the bleed fix it?
@@filipeferreira7019 If you recently replace your cooling system components like radiator, waterpump, thermostat etc. then u proly need to bleed it if there's a gurgling sound in your dash. But u haven't and it makes that sound, im not a mechanic so i can't really give u an answer. You might wanna ask or see your trusted mechanic. But to answer your question after i bleed my system. Yeah it did work! U just have to do it multiple times til u dont see any bubbles coming out yout bleeder valve.
How much coolant should be used in this situation? 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Are you 100% sure about the coolant being glycol with hoat ??? Mine is dodge dakota
Need help replaced water pump on 4.7 Durango and I’m doing what your showing but still getting hot replaced thermostat and housing with the flush still having same issue
hey I have a bunch of questions I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with the 4.7L and I am having this same issue but little more complicated
what coolant do i need on 05 durango 4.7 i just been using universal coolant from advance auto parts and i believe it is green
Technicallu should be the orange HOAT stuff. ZEREX make some. G05 I believe.
Lower Coolant Rad Hose went on my 08 Ram, so this is crucial cause I am terrified of the “dreaded valve seat failure” and want to make sure I do this right😅
What if the bubbles don’t stop?
Can u add the audio stated when the e gone was on? Couldn't catch all you said
Thanks for the advice. Looking out a 2001 Durango with that motor in it and now I know what to look for.
I have an issue. When I fill up the coolant tank. Nothing is coming up this bleeder screw. Hemi 5.7 water seems stock somehow
The bleeder screw is superfluous on vehicles that have the expansion tanks. The 4.7L comes with the bleeder screw because the engine is sometimes used on vehicles, like yours; that don't have exspansion tanks. You can help it along if you pop the expansion tank lid when full cold for the first few days after refilling. Make sure you run the heater until it puts out hot air. If it doesn't, you may have a clog in the heater core, or lines. When gas no longer escapes when you pop the expansion tank lid at full cold, you're done.
I wish I would've seen this way sooner. But at least I caught this info before replacing my water pump. I've seen some symptoms of possible valve issues so I'm worried now I'm too late.
Had to change a cylinder head on my 2000 Dakota 4x4. I guess because I changed the head I'm going to run into a much longer bleed period than most? At least now I have info I need to do it correctly. Thanks. 👍
What do you mean by “running them not too hot, but hotter than they should be running” what does that look like? What temp range is that?
Was bleeding n air just keeps comin up, didnt show sings of stopping, n tenp went up to about half way then seems to be able to manage half way
So....at full cool down (2 days at rest), the coolant was gushing out when I started the engine. 05 ram 4.7l. I haven't been able to replicate this video. Am I looking at something bad, or is it normal? There's definitely air in the system because I can hear the brand new water pump cavitating. Water pump was replaced with new oil pump, timing components, fan clutch, t Stat, and radiator. Was not overheating this badly prior to the repairs 🤷🏻♂️
Does the heater have to be blowing full blast also for this procedure
If I can't release the 8mm hez nut can I just open clamp on hose and bleed from there?
Chrysler 4,7 and Caddy northstar 4,6 dont like slightly overheating
My 2000 Jeep Grand V8, 4.7L runs hot all the time. New radiator, a new water pump, and even bought a new thermostat at the dealer. 190 is too hot for any motor and it gets hotter than this. I have bled out the system 3 or 4 times. Is there a cooler thermostat.???
My 2005 ram 1500 seems to start loose some coolant around my water pump, should I go ahead and change it? Thanks alot.
yes, when water pumps go bad they start to leak out of the weep hole on the bottom. first sign it is going. change it before it fails on you, bud.
Should I worry about my valve seats loosening after a short overheat? As soon as it got hot I turned it off. Would you recommend tightening them back to spec on a vehicle with close to 200k?
Nice video man. I just got a 4.7 04 Durango, when I run it, after like around 30 mins if I stop at a light or stop. The temperature gauge will rise to the middle line or a little more above. But if I step on the gas it will go down. What can it be? I just got a thermostat, temperature sensor, and a cap... lol