AWESOME. I just bought one from a friend but now ex-friend. He raised the offer price just before I bought it by $300. Oh well, it was a 04 Grand Limited WJ with 145,000 ml. He had the big package of the 4.7L. He had a cover for it but parked it and never used the cover. So far it is tires, a battery and power steering pump. Hopefully no more problems with it as I got for 1/3 book price. WHAT A BLESSING.
@@FromSaultoPaul its an awesome jeep! i have yet to sit in a car that has seats as comfortable as the leather WJ seats! I6 or V8 are both great engines and are reliable when you perform routine maintenance and keep them from overheating, they can run easily to 250,000miles
I own a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I6. Problems I’ve run into that seem to be common with the 4.0 I6 WJ: -Brake light housing bad connection (causes brake lights to go haywire while running lights are on) -Window regulator failure (always keep wedges for windows on deck) -Calipers tend to warp rotors (causes death wobbles only when braking) -Radiator leak causing overheating (plastic top hose intake cracks) -Cylinder 3 misfire (caused by heat soak) -Struts fail (struts under hood and tailgate fail) -Knocking noise from transmission (flex plate and torque converter bolts come loose and make knocking noise) -A/C doors get messed up -Valve cover gasket oil leak -Body Control module failure (running lights flicker, horn honks, displays flicker, etc.) -Side mirrors get loose and fold too easily (can be pushed close by wind) -PCM failure (power control module fails causing car to stall while driving or idling/will not start) -Transmission fluid leak -Carbon build up in throttle body (just needs cleaning) -Hose to pcv dry rotted (easy fix) -Water pooling up in passenger floorboard (AC condensation drain gets clogged, clean line with a wire) -Cam shaft position sensor failure (can also cause misfire) -Door skin panel clips break easily (I have a burning hate for those clips) -Brake dust covers ABS sensor causing ABS light -OEM Front door 6X9 Speakers blow out easily That is about all I have run into over a long time of owning a WJ. Quick tip: if you have a OBD II scanner that isn’t picking up codes always check the onboard scanner, start with key in off position then turn it to the start position without cranking, repeat 2 more times and this will tell you all the codes.
I have an 04 limited as well as an 18 cherokee trailhawk and the WJ is still my daily driver. I put over 200k on it myself after I bought it in 05. Over the years I've had plenty of issues: thermostat, new radiator, starter, alternator, FIVE window regulators, rebuilt front diff, new crankshaft, front cd player eject broke and no clock or radio display. Also a few batteries, brake jobs and tires and tons of light bulbs. There is also a gremlin which will turn on the rear lights that won't turn off unless u drive forward. Original exhaust, although the hanger broke a few times. It also leaks oil like a civ having said all that, it runs great, has a perfect driving position, excellent vision all the way around and it's a blast to drive. I love it!!
I replaced my thermostat with a cheap one from the local auto parts store and noticed that it didn’t have the small circulation hole near the top like the old one, reside in the warm climate of Hawaii. So I put the new thermostat in place to mark where I was going to drill a small hole towards the top. I used a 7/64 drill bit and made my circulation hole, then did the install. While I was at it, I replace the coolant sensor, which is easier to replace outside the vehicle. The whole job took me about 35 minutes and has been working great for almost a year now. Great video! 5 Stars in my book. I love my Jeep!
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4WD exactly like the one in the video and I've had it for 7 years now. It's still the most reliable car I've ever had but the issues he described are very accurate because I'm currenting having differential problems which is not cheap.
I have an 2004 I'm second owner n I've had a few issues but watching this I think my thermostat is sticking. No differential trouble yet. 200000 plus miles
Window regulators: If you live in a hot area like central CA, the plastic in the window regulators break easily. Here's what to do to avoid breakage, when you roll the windows all the way up, release the cable tension by momentarily pushing the "down" on the window switch. When lowering the window all the way, push the up on the switch to release the cable tension. You can thank me later.
Nice! I'm in the process of picking up a 01 Laredo with the 4.0 as a project. Seems mechanically sound save for a head gasket (relatively easy fix) but it does run with a miss due the gasket bleeding compression between 5 and 6
This is actually very interesting I've owned 4 of these guys for over 8 years now and I only get the seals issue. super interesting! They are super reliable, and I haven't had your specific problems, and on top of it the jeeps are way easier to work on than modern cars. but great video very interesting to learn what people get into working on these things, also great topic with the rear control arm that was a great touch.
The extra added problem fit my 2004 Grand Cherokee to a "T"! Drove far too many miles before I found the problem, but once fixed, my Jeep runs like brand new!
You should add the door harness wires breaking from normal use of the front doors, causing power windows, power locks, power mirrors to fail. In some cases a ground wire in door can cause issues with ECU that controls the fuel trim and other things
I have a 2004 4WD 4.7 H.O. that I bought in 2010 with 49k miles. I've had it ever since (for over 12 years) and it has been great! I've had, or have, some of the issues brought up in the video. I got tools to help me work on the Jeep now (jack stands, floor jack, and a creeper) so I can better work on it. Pretty soon I'll be replacing the power steering pump, oil pressure sensor, the thermostat and possibly the water pump.
Drivers window got stuck halfway up AND after turning off the vehicle it wouldn't start. One mech told me it was up in the engine area because he used his jump starter to avoid the interlock and the car started; estimate 300 bucks for parts alone. After research, I cut open the boot holding the wiring between the drivers door and the engine compartment, found a broken wire and fixed it with a band-aid. Did go get the proper wire bridge that day and has been fixed for the past 5 months for $12.
Brake master just went out on my '01 - already replaced a radiator, rad fan, fan relay (the one hidden behind the bumper cover), waterpump, thermostat, coil packs, upper and lower rad hoses, and the valve cover gasket. Dreading the day I have to replace the heatercore
DB Cromartie. Which skinny hose do the upper and lower steel metal lines from radiator , connect back to? the top line from transmission to upper radiator steel line? driver side. please reply
I have this H.O 4.7 from 2004 with the current mileage of only 10,500 miles, half a year after it was brought, it was 6.400 miles, then it was brought from Chicago and stood for 13 years
Restoring my 2000 Cherokee. Redoing entire suspension system with a lift. Front and back bushings were gone. Found no leaks down there. Replaced my window actuators too. Radiator and Brake lines I would add to your list.
Have an 04 with 150k on it, great reliable vehicle. I have had 23 different cars/trucks over the years and this thing is a runner...4.0. It Does suck on gas though, other than that it’s awesome
Recently reviewed all these comments. Made me laugh to read all the stupid nonsense. 2nd gen Jeep Grand Cherokee's are roughly all 20 year old vehicles, with most having over 200,000 miles. People comments about what a bad experience they had with their Jeep. Ha, ha, ha. These are the last best built SUV's made, and they are reasonably priced. Maintenance issues are a fact of life with older vehicles, but these Jeeps where built to be abused in a way that a newer SUV will not withstand, period!
Nice overview. I’m in the process of restoring a 2003, 4.7L HO. I’d like to mention two things I learned. 1). When doing any work that requires new radiator fluid, you MUST properly bleed the system. It’s the only way to get the air out of the system. It’s a simple process, and it does not take a lot of tools. But this process is extremely important to ensure the proper operating temperature. If you hear a gurgling noice coming from under the hood after you shut the engine off, you have air trapped in your coolant system. Please don’t ignore this. It may lead to serve damage to the engine. All you need is a 3/8” ratchet or breaker bar, and a 3/8” drive, 8mm socket. 2) If you are experiencing blend door issues, make sure you check the actuator. The “shafts” on the actuators are plastic. Over time they deteriorate, become brittle, and brake. Removal and installation of the actuator is very simple. Only 2 screws and a single electrical fastener. The brand new part is about $60-70. Or you can check at a local junk yard, and get one for $15-20. If the shaft is not broken, it usually works fine. I always pay $1-2 more at the junk yards to get a 30-45 day warranty.
On your number one issue you talk about air being trapped in the coolant system.. you mentioned the tools you need to take care of this problem.. now how do you do the procedure with all those tools that's what I want to know
2003 4.7L HO Overland, owned for 15 years now. Blend doors was the only one I have encountered. 3 times. Eventually had them welded open so only warm air comes through. AC in UK is hardly an issue. Other than that, best motor I have ever owned. Nice vid.
Steve I'm in the UK! You sound like someone who knows a bit about these jeeps. I could really do with some advice on mine as no one has any knowledge on it as they don't know older 4x4s
2003 GC Overland 4.7 .. Had the blend door issue twice. Replaced 3 window regulators (both rear windows and drivers window twice). Rear axle seals replaced. For the last 2 years I have been fighting seized brake calipers. All wheels have had seized calipers that had to be replaced with fronts being done twice. Replacement calipers were under warranty but still why?? I think it is the material the pistons are made of .. shrugs. Currently have to replace rear seal on transfer case but no hurry. I use mine mostly in the winter now. Was my daily driver for work until this year. Other than the rockers rusting out (Ontario salt for winter) it has been fairly good vehicle. You definitely want to be able to do the work yourself if you own a Jeep.
Had a 2001 4.7 limited, worst car we have ever owned! Failed once every one or two months. Sometimes the key wouldn’t even turn, and all you heard was that typical chrysler ding ding ding sound, which brings me really bad memories.
@@negrokrilinful the first 4.7s were kind of crappy. It was the first DOHC V8 used in a jeep. It had aluminum heads like the previous 5.2s. The first 4.7s had a bad tendency of overheating and causing catastrophic damage, quickly. However, I have seen later 4.7s and even old rebuilt ones that have lasted well over 200,000 miles. I prefer my ZJ over the WJs, but they are still fairly easy and cheap to fix...
Good video. I love the WJ series Grand Cherokees. I have 2 2004 WJs, one with the inline 6, the other one is a special edition with the 4.7 V8 all time 4WD. I have had to replace the window regulator on the special edition and I had to do new seals on rear differential, axels, ball joints on the 6 cylinder. Over all these are great vehicles for where I live (Colorado) and would probably buy another one if it was in good shape with lower miles. So much more comfortable than the XJ.
I have a 2004 4.0L grand Cherokee, 😢 I honestly love this vehicle it's not given any issues to me but I do maintain it, but she's way better than having a car payment too, and I do go off roading too
You didn't mention the most serious problems ones with 0331 heads cracking between 3/4 cylinder and piston skirts breaking off and the wiring in the driver's door shorting out or breaking causing your security system to go off every time you put the key in to unlock the door
Well the heads cracking is most commonly cause by incorrect maintenance of the cooling system. Doesn't matter how many warnings there are in manuals or stickers in the engine bay, people don't bleed the system properly after refill. "the air works itself out " is the common cry. Well it doesn't in many engines. That's why bleeding is essential. The other thing people can't get through their heads is that when a modern car overheats you STOP. Oh, we're only 8 miles from the mechanic or it's only 7 miles back home..it'll be ok. Well it WON'T be ok. Even an expensive tow is a lot cheaper than a new engine. Use your heads and you won't crack your heads.
you talking about 20 years old car, it look like the old man 80 year old, of course it get sick everywhere. but I am lucky. My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 270,000km did not see the problem like you said , only change oil, battery, and drive nice. love it
My 1999 has all those problems and more :) Latest issue is a phantom load that drains the battery and a drivers side door key that no longer opens the door. It goes in the hole, will turn left and right, but won't unlock the door. Battery is dead, so key fob won't unlock the door either. Had to figure out how to pop the hood with a long pole, then recharge battery, then could use the key fob to unlock. What a pain.
I had a '02 with the 4.7 HO for 270k miles until it got hit by a drunk driver... replaced one window motor, radiator, heater core, thermostat, and a starter besides the usual battery, brakes, etc..
I have had a 1st generation 1995 gc and it was awesome. Best jeep off road and so reliable. I bought it for $600 and in 10 years i only had to replace battery twice and brakes once. I now have had a 2004, 2000, and now a 1999. The 00 and 04 lasted each one summer before everything started breaking. The 99 has blinker and tail light issues but other than that it has been ok. Nothing beats a 1st gen 1995 with a 2" lift from factory and the only jeep with true part time 4wd and true 4wd low. Look it up. Made it amazing off road.
The window regulator on WJ is cable driven and usually the plastic guides break. The Blend doors that bind are only the Dual Zone heater systems. This is what the Blend door sub assy was releasd for.
We have a 2001 Jeep Grand Laredo with 153,000 miles on it. It had oil leaks and suspension problems. Five thousand dollars later it is mint except for the power steering hose needing to be change due to slow leak. The only problem is that my niece is afraid of it because it has a high center which scares her because she feels it sways a little. I guess we'll have to lower it now.
I replaced almost everything in my 2002 4.0 6 cylinder engine for under about $400, so I won’t have any problems later on once I got to 165,000k. Replaced radiator, all hoses, 😂water pump, alternator, starter, battery, coil pack clutch fan and electric fan, ac compressor along with a few $10 engine sensors. Parts are so cheap. I just put 4 tires on it and it’s got 245,000k. Doesn’t smoke doesn’t burn oil doesn’t knock or tick. I drive this daily around town and best deal I’ve had outta owning 40 plus vehicles. . Paid $1600 for it. I’ve got tvs in seat head rests and an Xbox hooked up for football tailgating. 😂
I think it's because they come from the factory leaking lol I'm getting ready to change my heater core but I don't know if I should replace it with a Mopar one or another brand.
"Top Problems?" Blend doors- somewhat agree, however, its more common on the dual zone Jeeps, NOT the system you were showing off. The main reason is 20 year old plastic blend doors powered by a strong actuator that cracks the hinge. Window regulator?...really? The more common issue is the broken wire in the door jamb boot. Diff leak/axle leak?...but not the rear main seal leak thats more common with 4-liters? Lower control arm bushings with rust? How about the rear lower control arm mounts rotting off the body being more common than that? Especially "in the rust belt" that you spoke of. Other items you missed that are common...blinker relay causing no blinkers. Cooling fan relay burning out and causing overheating. Spray foam body filler rotting out the quarter panels and rocker panels. Deathwobble? Always a good one to talk about. Fuel tank skid plate rotting and dropping the tank on the ground. (Got a free Jeep and an $800 Jeep due to this. $800 Jeep saw another 130k and 5 more years, dying at 385k miles. Free Jeep was sold and is still on the road.) Bad tail light connections on stock housings?
Got an ‘03 pretty cheap for girlfriend about 4-5 years ago. Live in Buffalo, so yeah... son of a bitch is rotting to the ground. Overall though, it was sweet for what it was. She got an upgrade and now I’m taking over the Cherokee... you hit the nail on the head with a lot of those issues. Gas tank shield thing? Yup, rotted right off it... tank still hasn’t dropped though, miraculously. Charcoal canister fell and dragged behind it, spreading charcoal pellets all over the road... i duct taped it and it passed inspection somehow. Door jamb wire issue? Not sure what the hell everyone is talking about with that, so far so good. Blend door? Yup, broke. Windows fall off tracks? Yup, screwed a wood block under one of them after fixing it 3 times. Oil pressure sensor just went, that’s something different. Weird idling, chugging, racing, yup. Death wobble? Only happened twice before in the past but suddenly it’s constant... I’m guessing tie rods, but that’s the rust belt’s fault. I’m sure im missing a few things. Man if they didn’t salt the roads, these Cherokees would be pretty sweet rides.
Fun jeeps I have a wj right now lifted 4 inches 31 inch tires different bumper just took it to a jeep park and had a blast got stuck 3 times but broke nothing my has that wobble he was talking about f it it’s more of a trail jeep than a road jeep might put 5k miles on it a year so fun. Can’t wait for the next time.
In my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7L V8 engine (J-VIN), I’ve experienced blend door and thermostat failures. Other components I’ve replaced due to failure include the PCV valve, coolant temperature sensor, crankshaft position sensor, idle control valve, starter, alternator, and ECM. Additionally, I’ve upgraded various parts like shocks, battery, brakes, spark plugs, and exterior light assemblies. The stock rims were also replaced because matte black looks way better. As for the leaky sunroof track, I’m considering removing the glass and welding in sheet metal. Sunroofs can be quite a hassle! I don’t even want to deal with them.😄
I have owned 28 of these Jeep grand cherokees (buy sell trade all the time) I find a lot of issues in the 4.0 heads and the 4.7 valve seats. But great explanation on all the other issues! My 04 currently has the blend door issue that I’m just to lazy to fix 😂😂
I just bought my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Replaced all six fuel injectors. Seller told me #2 was misfiring, changed it, and found all of them were cracked. Also replaced the air idle control valve. It's still shuddering and has no power going up the slightest incline. What's going on?
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo (Special Edition) 4.0L - converted my QuadraDrive (249 transfer case) with a Saginaw front driveshaft to a Select Trac (242 transfer case) with a double cardan front driveshaft.
Thanks for your information, i will buy a Jeep 3.1L from 2003 im from Germany and this is my first jeep and you help my very well with your information, thanks a loot for your video !!!
I HAD A 2001 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO 4X4 4.0 STRAIGHT SIX. THE THERMOSTAT STUCK AND IT WAS A NEW ONE WITH ABOUT 30,000 MILES ON IT WHEN IT WAS REBUILD THE RADIATOR BUILT UP SO MUCH PRESSURE IT BLEW THE SIDE OUT OF THE RAIDATOR AND IT WAS A PRETTY NEW RADIATOR, PEOPLE SAID IT WAS A BLOWN HEAD GASKET BUT WAS CHECKED OUT AND WAS FINE, SO IF YOUR HAVING TROUBLE WATCH OUT IT COULD BE THE THERMOSTAT NEW ONES GO BAD TOO!!
The first two issues are almost a given with Chrysler. Have been for the last 50 years. Poor wiring, poor grounding, poor attention to details and low bidding of parts. Broken locks, windows, gauges, etc. Most of the other items are pretty much in the box for all vehicles. Chrysler always had great engines, differentials and transmissions. Heck , the rear end in the Jeep Cherokee from 1985 til the end had the same dif as the 1964 Doge Dart/Plymouth Valiant. Nobody ever complained about that. But we sure complained about that window that didn't work or the door locks that failed.
Great 👍video. I had this jeep grand cherokee for 13 years and the primary concern for me was the rear gas tank behind the rear tires. If someone were to rear end you , the jeep could catch on fire or explode. 47 people died as a result of this Last time ⏲️ I checked.
Have a 03 4.7 2-wheel drive. Bought it with 87k now it at 170k.Have had the blend door problem and window problems but other than that a great vehicle. Do change oil every 3K and transmission fluid and its 2 filters every 10K.Do have a weird rust issue in a few areas on the inside of front hood, Don't know what that is about
Loved my 2000 GC. But the 4.7 had a bad head design that is prone to cracking. It was an awesome engine for power but it wasn’t worth it to just do the heads or drop in a new motor.
I did a swap with a couple 4.7s. I talked to the engine shop that did the rebuild, and they told me exactly why these first 4.7s were prone to catastrophic damage. The thing that kills 99% of these engines, is overheating. And of course with aluminum heads like the older 5.2l, it is prone to even more damage, when overheated. With that being said, the average rebuild is $2k-$3k, where I'm from. That's still cheaper than a brand new car and guarantees you at least another 200,000 miles, as long as you take care of it.
Leaking rear axle at the pinion and inside left tire so i have to top it up with oil once in a while. also the abs warning light is on. Oh almost forgot a small leak at the transfer case also. I have resent changed alternator, thermostat and did a AC pump bypass
Only problem I've experienced so far on my 03 cherokee with the 4.7 is the turn signals not working! But I found out if u smack the panel below the steering wheel they start working again 🤣🤣
@Anthony Cavitt I have that right now and I went to O'Reilly's and they told me it is the turn signal flasher. Cost at O'Reilly's here in Fl. is 66.02 with tax so I called our car dealership to have them put one in and it is $265.00. We can't put it in as we are both disable. Good luck and I just watched a youtube on how to put it in
You've missed The BIG One: the absolutely horrible wiring design/application issue that can affect everything from windows not working, overhead display "- -" failure, interior lights coming on and staying on, and even shutting off the a/c compressor. The stiff wire that is threaded from the main body to the driver and passenger door is abysmal. PLEASE post a full repair video of making this repair with the MOPAR wiring kit. Thanks!!
I've owned a 99 wj since 05 and I've had to do most of the things on your list. Blend door sucked! Here are some of the things that have happened to mine. Blend door. Window reg on drivers door. Window lock out switch( sometimes the rear drivers side window goes down by itself). The auto climate resistor pack connector melted. Overhead console constantly says hood open even though this car has no hood switch. Early brake systems have the brake clip rubs on hub. Crank sensor on the back on the motor. "Distributor" went Radiator tank cracked Rear axle seals are a constant pain Rear upper link rusted out. Rear lower links rusted out. And the big one. #6 piston cracked! Yup. 120k. Probably the most annoying thing is the alarm. If your ignition switch starts going your auto lights might randomly come on when parked. The alarm will not let you lock the car with the key or open with the key or the alarm will go off. Mine is a 99 with 4.0. With the v8 tease and d44 varilock rear cause of the factory towing pack.
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 Liter Limited. I changed all four oxygen sensors and I still have the same issue. The issue is that sometimes it stalls on me and sometimes when I hit the gas it starts ti jerk and makes a loud noise while I’m pushing on the gas. Once I let go of the gas after a few seconds it goes back to normal and drives ok. However it does it every day while I drive. Sometimes when I turn it on I can hear the idle go up and down and sometimes it shuts down the engine. I thought it was the TPS but after searching on UA-cam it doesn’t give me all of the Simpson’s that a vehicle have when it has a bad TPS. Thanks for talking about the top five issues. I know I have a bad blend door on my Jeep. I have to fight with it until it finally blows either cold in summer or hot in winter. I hope to hear from you, thanks, Ed.
2004 Grand Cherokee, sometimes the rear window goes down when I turn the ignition on. I can hit the switch and put it back up and it will stay. Just starts going down when the ignition is turned
Seems 2b a lot of crossover & similar problems same years w/ Dodge Durango & Dakota. Have you done a video for the Dodge? Still a ton of them on the road, & they have proven 2b durable and sought after. Thanks
POWER WINDOW REGULATOR IS BEST ON EARTH BECAUSE IT IS A SCISSOR REGULATOR, NOT CABLE!!! WHEEL BEARING GREASE EVERYTHING!!! EVEN THE X IN CROSS ARMS !!! (White lithium is not long lasting!!!)
While WJ's have a lot of little issues the 4.0L is a cockroach of a engine and they are very easy to fix ( minus electrical issues) They share alot of engine parts and some suspension parts with XJ and TJ so they can be upgraded fairly easily. I have two and would never get rid of them.
My WJ had the blend door issue. The blend door were broken at the rotation pivot. This meant I had to pull the dash and HVAC out. I replaced all blend doors with aluminum doors and also replaced the ac condenser and heater core. This was 6 years ago and its still going strong. When I purchased the WJ, I had to replace the engine as it had a spun big end so I purchased a complete reco motor and installed it. I still love this WJ as the paint and body work are near perfect, interior clean and also near perfect.
At the ends of the axles the leaking will more likely be caused do to a bad wheel bearing more than the inner seals cause the wheel bearing acts as a seal i just had to replace mine and was a smelly job lol gotta love the smell of rear diff fluid
Lets be sure if you have the 4.7 V8 ANY TIME YOU DRAIN THE COOLANT read the label on the radiator covering. You must blead the engine or you can drop some valve guides on one of the heads.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 2nd Gen 1999 - 2004 Top 5 Probs 1. Blend door actuators - behind dash; diverts air being pushed by blower motor - either blow over your heater core (has hot coolant flowing through it) for heat, or through your ambient air vents or ac. The blend doors bind up, - mb penny fell in, cardboard, or j breaks, & when you turn knob from hot to cold, temp not change. If you turn temp knob & hear clunking from behind dash, means actuator is working but blend door is bound up for some reason. Open dash investigate. 2. Window regulators - the metal frame that moves window up & down has pivot points, they binds up - inside door; or cb motor or switch itself, or a fuse, if its not getting power. 3. Fuel Tank Venting - try to fill up gas, but pump shuts off alot. It's a fuel pressure issue inside tank. Air not coming out as fuel goes in. cb vapor circulation tube, the fuel fill tube, or the evap system - has lil valve that makes sure air comes out as you put air in - cb sticking or broken. 4. Thermostat - valve stays open or closed - closed = overheating, coolant not flow into radiator; open = not warm up & no heat, coolant not stay in engine. 5. 4WD Front differential leaks - very common, leaks at pinion rubber seal, where drive shaft connects to differential . Also at outer axle seals but not by wheels, but by the differential itself where axles attach to differential - bigger job. Rear differential - either pinion seal by drive shaft, or Outer axle seals by wheels - look like black crunchy stuff on backing plate on back of wheel. 6. Rear A arm - behind rear springs both sides - has mounting bushings that can separate laterally, split, dangerous. A arm also has a center ball joint where it mounts. If any of these loose, could feel loose & squirrelly driving down road, poor traction, or when cornering, feel sloppy unsafe, jostles around. 7. Rust - Rear support arms, behind where wheels attach. outside may look ok, but up inside cb rusting away & bushings crumbling. If this spot metal crumbles, not gonna drive straight, can break go off the road. Comments - broken wires in door jambs. Plus more.
No mention of the notorious 4.0 clatter. The top bolt on the water pump oxidizing to the point of being impossible to remove. Fuel injector bodies cracking. And steering stabilizers losing their charge causing the death wobble. Other than that, good vid.
Passed on an 03 today 4.7 bc of blend doors, power steering and other leaks. Only 137k miles at a dealership $3999. Still couldn't pay it lol.. beautiful cars though just too many serious issues
1 wiring harness in the dor jambs ( they break over time and kill all the windows.) 2 oil leaks ( mine was from the valve cover (leaked on the exuast, never on the ground) 3 (solid front axel) death wobble ( could be track bar, stabalizer, ball joints, tie rods, control arms, etc.) That should have been the top 3. Ive never had any of the issues he named in the 4 years i've owned my 04 JEEP grand cherokee 4.7 v8.
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I have a 2004 with 301000 miles and I've only a few issues. Best automotive purchase I ever made.
2004, 4.7L, 197k and I have had only the rust issue. Living in Salt belt, so I will have rust issues with any vehicle.
2004 was the best year of the WJ. I have one with 200,000 miles it still runs great. High Output motor.
What engine and what gas milage.
AWESOME. I just bought one from a friend but now ex-friend. He raised the offer price just before I bought it by $300. Oh well, it was a 04 Grand Limited WJ with 145,000 ml. He had the big package of the 4.7L. He had a cover for it but parked it and never used the cover. So far it is tires, a battery and power steering pump. Hopefully no more problems with it as I got for 1/3 book price. WHAT A BLESSING.
@@FromSaultoPaul its an awesome jeep! i have yet to sit in a car that has seats as comfortable as the leather WJ seats! I6 or V8 are both great engines and are reliable when you perform routine maintenance and keep them from overheating, they can run easily to 250,000miles
I own a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I6.
Problems I’ve run into that seem to be common with the 4.0 I6 WJ:
-Brake light housing bad connection (causes brake lights to go haywire while running lights are on)
-Window regulator failure (always keep wedges for windows on deck)
-Calipers tend to warp rotors (causes death wobbles only when braking)
-Radiator leak causing overheating (plastic top hose intake cracks)
-Cylinder 3 misfire (caused by heat soak)
-Struts fail (struts under hood and tailgate fail)
-Knocking noise from transmission (flex plate and torque converter bolts come loose and make knocking noise)
-A/C doors get messed up
-Valve cover gasket oil leak
-Body Control module failure (running lights flicker, horn honks, displays flicker, etc.)
-Side mirrors get loose and fold too easily (can be pushed close by wind)
-PCM failure (power control module fails causing car to stall while driving or idling/will not start)
-Transmission fluid leak
-Carbon build up in throttle body (just needs cleaning)
-Hose to pcv dry rotted (easy fix)
-Water pooling up in passenger floorboard (AC condensation drain gets clogged, clean line with a wire)
-Cam shaft position sensor failure (can also cause misfire)
-Door skin panel clips break easily (I have a burning hate for those clips)
-Brake dust covers ABS sensor causing ABS light
-OEM Front door 6X9 Speakers blow out easily
That is about all I have run into over a long time of owning a WJ. Quick tip: if you have a OBD II scanner that isn’t picking up codes always check the onboard scanner, start with key in off position then turn it to the start position without cranking, repeat 2 more times and this will tell you all the codes.
You didn't say anything about all the broken wires in the door jambs
I've had to fix the drivrs side a few times.
That's most often the ground wire in my case
@@idahospyder1620 same here.
haha i thought i was the only one thinking of that!! 🤣 yep, rewired the driver door wire boot too many times!
AMEN
I have an 04 limited as well as an 18 cherokee trailhawk and the WJ is still my daily driver. I put over 200k on it myself after I bought it in 05. Over the years I've had plenty of issues: thermostat, new radiator, starter, alternator, FIVE window regulators, rebuilt front diff, new crankshaft, front cd player eject broke and no clock or radio display. Also a few batteries, brake jobs and tires and tons of light bulbs. There is also a gremlin which will turn on the rear lights that won't turn off unless u drive forward. Original exhaust, although the hanger broke a few times. It also leaks oil like a civ having said all that, it runs great, has a perfect driving position, excellent vision all the way around and it's a blast to drive. I love it!!
Gotta love those Gremlins. LoL have a Blessed day
I replaced my thermostat with a cheap one from the local auto parts store and noticed that it didn’t have the small circulation hole near the top like the old one, reside in the warm climate of Hawaii. So I put the new thermostat in place to mark where I was going to drill a small hole towards the top. I used a 7/64 drill bit and made my circulation hole, then did the install. While I was at it, I replace the coolant sensor, which is easier to replace outside the vehicle. The whole job took me about 35 minutes and has been working great for almost a year now. Great video! 5 Stars in my book. I love my Jeep!
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4WD exactly like the one in the video and I've had it for 7 years now. It's still the most reliable car I've ever had but the issues he described are very accurate because I'm currenting having differential problems which is not cheap.
My brother warned me about that, exactly how expensive is it ?
$750 cheapest usually over $1000
The blend door is simple though, get you some hvac tape and change it yourself every year, it’s more annoying than anything!
Thats a 2004 WJ in the video not a 2003.
I have an 2004 I'm second owner n I've had a few issues but watching this I think my thermostat is sticking. No differential trouble yet. 200000 plus miles
Window regulators: If you live in a hot area like central CA, the plastic in the window regulators break easily. Here's what to do to avoid breakage, when you roll the windows all the way up, release the cable tension by momentarily pushing the "down" on the window switch. When lowering the window all the way, push the up on the switch to release the cable tension. You can thank me later.
2004 overland 4.7HO qudradrive.... Daily driven every day since I bought it... Best suv I ever had.
It goes everywhere
i had an ‘04 limited with the v8 and quadradrive, oh man that thing was a beast! 💪 I am looking for another! 👀
Nice! I'm in the process of picking up a 01 Laredo with the 4.0 as a project. Seems mechanically sound save for a head gasket (relatively easy fix) but it does run with a miss due the gasket bleeding compression between 5 and 6
2002 4.7 ol myself🔑🔑🔑🔑
I heard that some people had problems with differentials is that true ?
This is actually very interesting I've owned 4 of these guys for over 8 years now and I only get the seals issue. super interesting! They are super reliable, and I haven't had your specific problems, and on top of it the jeeps are way easier to work on than modern cars. but great video very interesting to learn what people get into working on these things, also great topic with the rear control arm that was a great touch.
The extra added problem fit my 2004 Grand Cherokee to a "T"! Drove far too many miles before I found the problem, but once fixed, my Jeep runs like brand new!
You should add the door harness wires breaking from normal use of the front doors, causing power windows, power locks, power mirrors to fail. In some cases a ground wire in door can cause issues with ECU that controls the fuel trim and other things
What's the fuel trim? Found broken wires in Driver's door and all of a sudden it won't stay on...
I have a 2004 4WD 4.7 H.O. that I bought in 2010 with 49k miles. I've had it ever since (for over 12 years) and it has been great! I've had, or have, some of the issues brought up in the video. I got tools to help me work on the Jeep now (jack stands, floor jack, and a creeper) so I can better work on it. Pretty soon I'll be replacing the power steering pump, oil pressure sensor, the thermostat and possibly the water pump.
Got a 2004 gc with 285k on it, had very little issue with the jeep. Mechanic say very clean underneath it. Love my jeep.
Jeep FEEN'Z
My favorite problem on these jeeps is the door jam wires that break and cause all sorts of wierd electrical gremlins.
Drivers window got stuck halfway up AND after turning off the vehicle it wouldn't start. One mech told me it was up in the engine area because he used his jump starter to avoid the interlock and the car started; estimate 300 bucks for parts alone. After research, I cut open the boot holding the wiring between the drivers door and the engine compartment, found a broken wire and fixed it with a band-aid. Did go get the proper wire bridge that day and has been fixed for the past 5 months for $12.
Brake master just went out on my '01 - already replaced a radiator, rad fan, fan relay (the one hidden behind the bumper cover), waterpump, thermostat, coil packs, upper and lower rad hoses, and the valve cover gasket. Dreading the day I have to replace the heatercore
I’ve done exactly the same. Did the heater core last summer and wasn’t really that bad.
DB Cromartie. Which skinny hose do the upper and lower steel metal lines from radiator , connect back to? the top line from transmission to upper radiator steel line? driver side. please reply
J.E.E.P.
just empty every pocket
I thought it was going g to be a lucky buy on a cheap 4x4.
I have this H.O 4.7 from 2004 with the current mileage of only 10,500 miles, half a year after it was brought, it was 6.400 miles, then it was brought from Chicago and stood for 13 years
Restoring my 2000 Cherokee. Redoing entire suspension system with a lift. Front and back bushings were gone. Found no leaks down there. Replaced my window actuators too. Radiator and Brake lines I would add to your list.
#1 Death Wobble
#2 4.0 Engine Tick
#3 Crankshaft Sensor
#4 Fuel Injectors
#5 Dent On Hatchback
+VIPER ROTTWEILER Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Have an 04 with 150k on it, great reliable vehicle. I have had 23 different cars/trucks over the years and this thing is a runner...4.0. It Does suck on gas though, other than that it’s awesome
100% true!! only miss O2 sensors problems in v8 version, but still worth it, its an amaising machine!!!
Crankshaft position sensor is #2 common issue with door jamb wiring being #1
+BRAD BROWN Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah I had that, the TPS, and o2 sensors all go bad about the same time.
Dealing with my door jam harness currently 🤬
Mine chewed through shocks like crazy. Also the brakes and rotors worked correctly, it chewed through them scarily fast.
I can second that!
This is like 10% of the common issues in these jeeps
Recently reviewed all these comments. Made me laugh to read all the stupid nonsense. 2nd gen Jeep Grand Cherokee's are roughly all 20 year old vehicles, with most having over 200,000 miles. People comments about what a bad experience they had with their Jeep. Ha, ha, ha. These are the last best built SUV's made, and they are reasonably priced. Maintenance issues are a fact of life with older vehicles, but these Jeeps where built to be abused in a way that a newer SUV will not withstand, period!
Nice overview. I’m in the process of restoring a 2003, 4.7L HO. I’d like to mention two things I learned.
1). When doing any work that requires new radiator fluid, you MUST properly bleed the system. It’s the only way to get the air out of the system. It’s a simple process, and it does not take a lot of tools. But this process is extremely important to ensure the proper operating temperature. If you hear a gurgling noice coming from under the hood after you shut the engine off, you have air trapped in your coolant system. Please don’t ignore this. It may lead to serve damage to the engine. All you need is a 3/8” ratchet or breaker bar, and a 3/8” drive, 8mm socket.
2) If you are experiencing blend door issues, make sure you check the actuator. The “shafts” on the actuators are plastic. Over time they deteriorate, become brittle, and brake. Removal and installation of the actuator is very simple. Only 2 screws and a single electrical fastener. The brand new part is about $60-70. Or you can check at a local junk yard, and get one for $15-20. If the shaft is not broken, it usually works fine. I always pay $1-2 more at the junk yards to get a 30-45 day warranty.
How's the V8? Thinking about getting one for work
On your number one issue you talk about air being trapped in the coolant system.. you mentioned the tools you need to take care of this problem.. now how do you do the procedure with all those tools that's what I want to know
@@Jay-dp5wp I have the 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7LV8 standard output engine and the engine is robust with 222K miles on her.
I love my Jeep
great explanation my friend! of everything... very humble, great job! keep up the good work .
Thanks...you just solved the ball joint sound coming from the rear end that I couldn't find.
2003 4.7L HO Overland, owned for 15 years now. Blend doors was the only one I have encountered. 3 times. Eventually had them welded open so only warm air comes through. AC in UK is hardly an issue. Other than that, best motor I have ever owned. Nice vid.
Steve I'm in the UK! You sound like someone who knows a bit about these jeeps. I could really do with some advice on mine as no one has any knowledge on it as they don't know older 4x4s
2003 GC Overland 4.7 .. Had the blend door issue twice. Replaced 3 window regulators (both rear windows and drivers window twice). Rear axle seals replaced. For the last 2 years I have been fighting seized brake calipers. All wheels have had seized calipers that had to be replaced with fronts being done twice. Replacement calipers were under warranty but still why?? I think it is the material the pistons are made of .. shrugs. Currently have to replace rear seal on transfer case but no hurry. I use mine mostly in the winter now. Was my daily driver for work until this year. Other than the rockers rusting out (Ontario salt for winter) it has been fairly good vehicle. You definitely want to be able to do the work yourself if you own a Jeep.
Looking under that rusted out POS sure makes me glad I live in Texas. A 20 year old WJ will still look almost new with no rust what so ever.
This is definitely a sign. Was looking into this specific model & years. Good information to use!
dont buy one. lol
Easy fixes for a vehicle that can see 300k miles.
Had a 2001 4.7 limited, worst car we have ever owned! Failed once every one or two months. Sometimes the key wouldn’t even turn, and all you heard was that typical chrysler ding ding ding sound, which brings me really bad memories.
This is a ridiculous video, jeeps last longer that most vehicles, these so called problems happen to other vehicles all the time
@@negrokrilinful the first 4.7s were kind of crappy. It was the first DOHC V8 used in a jeep. It had aluminum heads like the previous 5.2s. The first 4.7s had a bad tendency of overheating and causing catastrophic damage, quickly. However, I have seen later 4.7s and even old rebuilt ones that have lasted well over 200,000 miles. I prefer my ZJ over the WJs, but they are still fairly easy and cheap to fix...
Good video. I love the WJ series Grand Cherokees. I have 2 2004 WJs, one with the inline 6, the other one is a special edition with the 4.7 V8 all time 4WD. I have had to replace the window regulator on the special edition and I had to do new seals on rear differential, axels, ball joints on the 6 cylinder. Over all these are great vehicles for where I live (Colorado) and would probably buy another one if it was in good shape with lower miles. So much more comfortable than the XJ.
Literally bought a 2000 WJ Limited at auction for $4,402 last week. Probably the same day you posted this video~
I've owned a 99 and a 04 two of my favourite vehicles I've owned
I took out my glove box out and manually turned the blend door for heat everytime I started it in winter
Me too 😂
Which I would have know that. I froze every winter.
I’ll be figuring out how to do this, been freezing in my ‘04.
So the blend door is easy to get to? I know its a bitch in many vehicles, whole dash has to be taken apart!
Show me a video of how lol
I have a 2004 4.0L grand Cherokee, 😢 I honestly love this vehicle it's not given any issues to me but I do maintain it, but she's way better than having a car payment too, and I do go off roading too
You didn't mention the most serious problems ones with 0331 heads cracking between 3/4 cylinder and piston skirts breaking off and the wiring in the driver's door shorting out or breaking causing your security system to go off every time you put the key in to unlock the door
+lynn hurd Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My horn honks every time I unlock with the key. Good to know why. Lol
Well the heads cracking is most commonly cause by incorrect maintenance of the cooling system. Doesn't matter how many warnings there are in manuals or stickers in the engine bay, people don't bleed the system properly after refill. "the air works itself out " is the common cry. Well it doesn't in many engines. That's why bleeding is essential. The other thing people can't get through their heads is that when a modern car overheats you STOP. Oh, we're only 8 miles from the mechanic or it's only 7 miles back home..it'll be ok. Well it WON'T be ok. Even an expensive tow is a lot cheaper than a new engine. Use your heads and you won't crack your heads.
Idk how they narrowed it down to 5… I was constantly wrenching on my WJ. 😂 Still loved it tho.
you talking about 20 years old car, it look like the old man 80 year old, of course it get sick everywhere. but I am lucky. My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 270,000km did not see the problem like you said , only change oil, battery, and drive nice. love it
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My 1999 has all those problems and more :) Latest issue is a phantom load that drains the battery and a drivers side door key that no longer opens the door. It goes in the hole, will turn left and right, but won't unlock the door. Battery is dead, so key fob won't unlock the door either. Had to figure out how to pop the hood with a long pole, then recharge battery, then could use the key fob to unlock. What a pain.
I had a '02 with the 4.7 HO for 270k miles until it got hit by a drunk driver... replaced one window motor, radiator, heater core, thermostat, and a starter besides the usual battery, brakes, etc..
Exactly same as my 02 overland
These are very solid made vehicles The WJ Are awesome these are very reliable if you take very good care it and do your maintenance they will last 😊
I have had a 1st generation 1995 gc and it was awesome. Best jeep off road and so reliable. I bought it for $600 and in 10 years i only had to replace battery twice and brakes once. I now have had a 2004, 2000, and now a 1999. The 00 and 04 lasted each one summer before everything started breaking. The 99 has blinker and tail light issues but other than that it has been ok. Nothing beats a 1st gen 1995 with a 2" lift from factory and the only jeep with true part time 4wd and true 4wd low. Look it up. Made it amazing off road.
The window regulator on WJ is cable driven and usually the plastic guides break. The Blend doors that bind are only the Dual Zone heater systems. This is what the Blend door sub assy was releasd for.
Absolutely the plastic guide breaks
yo! @ 9:13 is by far my favorite part of this video lol love this guy. 1a auto is my favorite youtube channel by far!
The BEST generation for Jeep. My 2004 WJ stills run so gooooood.
Love my WJ, '02 Overland 😎
Wish mine was the ocerlander. What gas milage do you get?
We have a 2001 Jeep Grand Laredo with 153,000 miles on it. It had oil leaks and suspension problems. Five thousand dollars later it is mint except for the power steering hose needing to be change due to slow leak. The only problem is that my niece is afraid of it because it has a high center which scares her because she feels it sways a little. I guess we'll have to lower it now.
Very helpful. My front diff is leaking and this helped me realize how to fix it
I Love My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, I Love You Man... Thank You for Major 5 Problems about 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee...
I replaced almost everything in my 2002 4.0 6 cylinder engine for under about $400, so I won’t have any problems later on once I got to 165,000k. Replaced radiator, all hoses, 😂water pump, alternator, starter, battery, coil pack clutch fan and electric fan, ac compressor along with a few $10 engine sensors. Parts are so cheap. I just put 4 tires on it and it’s got 245,000k. Doesn’t smoke doesn’t burn oil doesn’t knock or tick. I drive this daily around town and best deal I’ve had outta owning 40 plus vehicles. . Paid $1600 for it. I’ve got tvs in seat head rests and an Xbox hooked up for football tailgating. 😂
I’m surprised no ones talking about the heater core problems! I’ve owned 3 of these Jeep’s and every single one started to leak!
I think it's because they come from the factory leaking lol I'm getting ready to change my heater core but I don't know if I should replace it with a Mopar one or another brand.
I've owned four and none of them have leaked for me!
When I tried to get my heater core replaced and they asked what vehicle. There was always a long pause when I said 2000 G.C
Got that "Mad Money w/ Jim Cramer" feel towards the end ! ; )
"Top Problems?" Blend doors- somewhat agree, however, its more common on the dual zone Jeeps, NOT the system you were showing off. The main reason is 20 year old plastic blend doors powered by a strong actuator that cracks the hinge.
Window regulator?...really? The more common issue is the broken wire in the door jamb boot.
Diff leak/axle leak?...but not the rear main seal leak thats more common with 4-liters?
Lower control arm bushings with rust? How about the rear lower control arm mounts rotting off the body being more common than that? Especially "in the rust belt" that you spoke of.
Other items you missed that are common...blinker relay causing no blinkers. Cooling fan relay burning out and causing overheating. Spray foam body filler rotting out the quarter panels and rocker panels. Deathwobble? Always a good one to talk about. Fuel tank skid plate rotting and dropping the tank on the ground. (Got a free Jeep and an $800 Jeep due to this. $800 Jeep saw another 130k and 5 more years, dying at 385k miles. Free Jeep was sold and is still on the road.) Bad tail light connections on stock housings?
Got an ‘03 pretty cheap for girlfriend about 4-5 years ago. Live in Buffalo, so yeah... son of a bitch is rotting to the ground. Overall though, it was sweet for what it was. She got an upgrade and now I’m taking over the Cherokee... you hit the nail on the head with a lot of those issues. Gas tank shield thing? Yup, rotted right off it... tank still hasn’t dropped though, miraculously. Charcoal canister fell and dragged behind it, spreading charcoal pellets all over the road... i duct taped it and it passed inspection somehow. Door jamb wire issue? Not sure what the hell everyone is talking about with that, so far so good. Blend door? Yup, broke. Windows fall off tracks? Yup, screwed a wood block under one of them after fixing it 3 times. Oil pressure sensor just went, that’s something different. Weird idling, chugging, racing, yup. Death wobble? Only happened twice before in the past but suddenly it’s constant... I’m guessing tie rods, but that’s the rust belt’s fault. I’m sure im missing a few things. Man if they didn’t salt the roads, these Cherokees would be pretty sweet rides.
Fun jeeps I have a wj right now lifted 4 inches 31 inch tires different bumper just took it to a jeep park and had a blast got stuck 3 times but broke nothing my has that wobble he was talking about f it it’s more of a trail jeep than a road jeep might put 5k miles on it a year so fun. Can’t wait for the next time.
Appreciate that you had mentioned all the problems, please make a video how to fix as well
In my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7L V8 engine (J-VIN), I’ve experienced blend door and thermostat failures. Other components I’ve replaced due to failure include the PCV valve, coolant temperature sensor, crankshaft position sensor, idle control valve, starter, alternator, and ECM. Additionally, I’ve upgraded various parts like shocks, battery, brakes, spark plugs, and exterior light assemblies. The stock rims were also replaced because matte black looks way better. As for the leaky sunroof track, I’m considering removing the glass and welding in sheet metal. Sunroofs can be quite a hassle! I don’t even want to deal with them.😄
I have owned 28 of these Jeep grand cherokees (buy sell trade all the time) I find a lot of issues in the 4.0 heads and the 4.7 valve seats. But great explanation on all the other issues! My 04 currently has the blend door issue that I’m just to lazy to fix 😂😂
And don't forget about the 4.0 piston skirts breaking and destroying the motor knocking is a good indicator of that about to happen.
I just bought my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Replaced all six fuel injectors. Seller told me #2 was misfiring, changed it, and found all of them were cracked. Also replaced the air idle control valve. It's still shuddering and has no power going up the slightest incline. What's going on?
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo (Special Edition) 4.0L - converted my QuadraDrive (249 transfer case) with a Saginaw front driveshaft to a Select Trac (242 transfer case) with a double cardan front driveshaft.
+Kayak Fishing Country Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for your information, i will buy a Jeep 3.1L from 2003 im from Germany and this is my first jeep and you help my very well with your information, thanks a loot for your video !!!
I HAD A 2001 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO 4X4 4.0 STRAIGHT SIX. THE THERMOSTAT STUCK AND IT WAS A NEW ONE WITH ABOUT 30,000 MILES ON IT WHEN IT WAS REBUILD THE RADIATOR BUILT UP SO MUCH PRESSURE IT BLEW THE SIDE OUT OF THE RAIDATOR AND IT WAS A PRETTY NEW RADIATOR, PEOPLE SAID IT WAS A BLOWN HEAD GASKET BUT WAS CHECKED OUT AND WAS FINE, SO IF YOUR HAVING TROUBLE WATCH OUT IT COULD BE THE THERMOSTAT NEW ONES GO BAD TOO!!
Thank you brother I had just replaced all of #6
What about 4.0L rear main and oil pan leaks?
Mine just started💀💀💀
I Have a 2015 dodge journey nice to see they still haven't figured out the blend door actuator problem
The first two issues are almost a given with Chrysler. Have been for the last 50 years. Poor wiring, poor grounding, poor attention to details and low bidding of parts. Broken locks, windows, gauges, etc. Most of the other items are pretty much in the box for all vehicles. Chrysler always had great engines, differentials and transmissions. Heck , the rear end in the Jeep Cherokee from 1985 til the end had the same dif as the 1964 Doge Dart/Plymouth Valiant. Nobody ever complained about that. But we sure complained about that window that didn't work or the door locks that failed.
Great 👍video. I had this jeep grand cherokee for 13 years and the primary concern for me was the rear gas tank behind the rear tires. If someone were to rear end you , the jeep could catch on fire or explode. 47 people died as a result of this Last time ⏲️ I checked.
+THE DRIVING PROFESSOR Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto I definitely subscribed and will be watching and sharing your videos. It killed me to get rid of that jeep because of the straight 6.
+THE DRIVING PROFESSOR Thank you so much for the support!
You could die so many ways in a car... sad if you got rid of it because of that lol
They died because of the tow bar pushing into the gas tank because of the hitch. That was recalled and fixed do to the issue.
Also, I've had recurring problems with Radiator Perforations & Coolant Leaks all over . . . need to add that too.
Have a 03 4.7 2-wheel drive. Bought it with 87k now it at 170k.Have had the blend door problem and window problems but other than that a great vehicle. Do change oil every 3K and transmission fluid and its 2 filters every 10K.Do have a weird rust issue in a few areas on the inside of front hood, Don't know what that is about
This was super informative thank you!
thanks for the info..much appreciated! I have a 2002 JGC, but unfortunately I've had to replace the 4.7 engine only weeks after buying it!
Loved my 2000 GC. But the 4.7 had a bad head design that is prone to cracking. It was an awesome engine for power but it wasn’t worth it to just do the heads or drop in a new motor.
I did a swap with a couple 4.7s. I talked to the engine shop that did the rebuild, and they told me exactly why these first 4.7s were prone to catastrophic damage. The thing that kills 99% of these engines, is overheating. And of course with aluminum heads like the older 5.2l, it is prone to even more damage, when overheated. With that being said, the average rebuild is $2k-$3k, where I'm from. That's still cheaper than a brand new car and guarantees you at least another 200,000 miles, as long as you take care of it.
Leaking rear axle at the pinion and inside left tire so i have to top it up with oil once in a while. also the abs warning light is on. Oh almost forgot a small leak at the transfer case also. I have resent changed alternator, thermostat and did a AC pump bypass
Only problem I've experienced so far on my 03 cherokee with the 4.7 is the turn signals not working! But I found out if u smack the panel below the steering wheel they start working again 🤣🤣
Check your turn signal relay its a giant relay under your dash they come loose.
@Anthony Cavitt I have that right now and I went to O'Reilly's and they told me it is the turn signal flasher. Cost at O'Reilly's here in Fl. is 66.02 with tax so I called our car dealership to have them put one in and it is $265.00. We can't put it in as we are both disable. Good luck and I just watched a youtube on how to put it in
You've missed The BIG One: the absolutely horrible wiring design/application issue that can affect everything from windows not working, overhead display "- -" failure, interior lights coming on and staying on, and even shutting off the a/c compressor. The stiff wire that is threaded from the main body to the driver and passenger door is abysmal. PLEASE post a full repair video of making this repair with the MOPAR wiring kit. Thanks!!
I've owned a 99 wj since 05 and I've had to do most of the things on your list. Blend door sucked! Here are some of the things that have happened to mine.
Blend door.
Window reg on drivers door.
Window lock out switch( sometimes the rear drivers side window goes down by itself).
The auto climate resistor pack connector melted.
Overhead console constantly says hood open even though this car has no hood switch.
Early brake systems have the brake clip rubs on hub.
Crank sensor on the back on the motor.
"Distributor" went
Radiator tank cracked
Rear axle seals are a constant pain
Rear upper link rusted out.
Rear lower links rusted out.
And the big one. #6 piston cracked! Yup. 120k.
Probably the most annoying thing is the alarm. If your ignition switch starts going your auto lights might randomly come on when parked. The alarm will not let you lock the car with the key or open with the key or the alarm will go off.
Mine is a 99 with 4.0. With the v8 tease and d44 varilock rear cause of the factory towing pack.
Great video, but i would like to hear if a job is hard or easy and whether its cheap or not to get repaired. Really adds to my purchase descisions. :)
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 Liter Limited. I changed all four oxygen sensors and I still have the same issue. The issue is that sometimes it stalls on me and sometimes when I hit the gas it starts ti jerk and makes a loud noise while I’m pushing on the gas. Once I let go of the gas after a few seconds it goes back to normal and drives ok. However it does it every day while I drive. Sometimes when I turn it on I can hear the idle go up and down and sometimes it shuts down the engine. I thought it was the TPS but after searching on UA-cam it doesn’t give me all of the Simpson’s that a vehicle have when it has a bad TPS. Thanks for talking about the top five issues. I know I have a bad blend door on my Jeep. I have to fight with it until it finally blows either cold in summer or hot in winter. I hope to hear from you, thanks, Ed.
2004 Grand Cherokee, sometimes the rear window goes down when I turn the ignition on. I can hit the switch and put it back up and it will stay. Just starts going down when the ignition is turned
Seems 2b a lot of crossover & similar problems same years w/ Dodge Durango & Dakota. Have you done a video for the Dodge? Still a ton of them on the road, & they have proven 2b durable and sought after. Thanks
POWER WINDOW REGULATOR IS BEST ON EARTH BECAUSE IT IS A SCISSOR REGULATOR, NOT CABLE!!! WHEEL BEARING GREASE EVERYTHING!!! EVEN THE X IN CROSS ARMS !!! (White lithium is not long lasting!!!)
While WJ's have a lot of little issues the 4.0L is a cockroach of a engine and they are very easy to fix ( minus electrical issues) They share alot of engine parts and some suspension parts with XJ and TJ so they can be upgraded fairly easily. I have two and would never get rid of them.
My WJ had the blend door issue. The blend door were broken at the rotation pivot. This meant I had to pull the dash and HVAC out. I replaced all blend doors with aluminum doors and also replaced the ac condenser and heater core. This was 6 years ago and its still going strong. When I purchased the WJ, I had to replace the engine as it had a spun big end so I purchased a complete reco motor and installed it. I still love this WJ as the paint and body work are near perfect, interior clean and also near perfect.
Nice video
At the ends of the axles the leaking will more likely be caused do to a bad wheel bearing more than the inner seals cause the wheel bearing acts as a seal i just had to replace mine and was a smelly job lol gotta love the smell of rear diff fluid
+Blackops_Playz Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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Lets be sure if you have the 4.7 V8 ANY TIME YOU DRAIN THE COOLANT read the label on the radiator covering. You must blead the engine or you can drop some valve guides on one of the heads.
I’m about to go look at one, I took notes! Thanks.
Great Video.!!! Thank You Very Much. I have subscribed to your channel. Awesome Channel
More Cherokee content!
+D. T. We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto thanks guys!!!!
Jeep Grand Cherokee 2nd Gen 1999 - 2004 Top 5 Probs
1. Blend door actuators - behind dash; diverts air being pushed by blower motor - either blow over your heater core (has hot coolant flowing through it) for heat, or through your ambient air vents or ac. The blend doors bind up, - mb penny fell in, cardboard, or j breaks, & when you turn knob from hot to cold, temp not change. If you turn temp knob & hear clunking from behind dash, means actuator is working but blend door is bound up for some reason. Open dash investigate.
2. Window regulators - the metal frame that moves window up & down has pivot points, they binds up - inside door; or cb motor or switch itself, or a fuse, if its not getting power.
3. Fuel Tank Venting - try to fill up gas, but pump shuts off alot. It's a fuel pressure issue inside tank. Air not coming out as fuel goes in. cb vapor circulation tube, the fuel fill tube, or the evap system - has lil valve that makes sure air comes out as you put air in - cb sticking or broken.
4. Thermostat - valve stays open or closed - closed = overheating, coolant not flow into radiator; open = not warm up & no heat, coolant not stay in engine.
5. 4WD Front differential leaks - very common, leaks at pinion rubber seal, where drive shaft connects to differential . Also at outer axle seals but not by wheels, but by the differential itself where axles attach to differential - bigger job. Rear differential - either pinion seal by drive shaft, or Outer axle seals by wheels - look like black crunchy stuff on backing plate on back of wheel.
6. Rear A arm - behind rear springs both sides - has mounting bushings that can separate laterally, split, dangerous. A arm also has a center ball joint where it mounts. If any of these loose, could feel loose & squirrelly driving down road, poor traction, or when cornering, feel sloppy unsafe, jostles around.
7. Rust - Rear support arms, behind where wheels attach. outside may look ok, but up inside cb rusting away & bushings crumbling. If this spot metal crumbles, not gonna drive straight, can break go off the road.
Comments - broken wires in door jambs. Plus more.
How do you know if you have a second gen? Thx for the vid
1st gen have very square headlights, the 3rd and up have an independent front suspension.... everything else is a 2nd ;)
1999 to 2004 Grand Cherokee
No mention of the notorious 4.0 clatter. The top bolt on the water pump oxidizing to the point of being impossible to remove. Fuel injector bodies cracking. And steering stabilizers losing their charge causing the death wobble. Other than that, good vid.
Passed on an 03 today 4.7 bc of blend doors, power steering and other leaks. Only 137k miles at a dealership $3999. Still couldn't pay it lol.. beautiful cars though just too many serious issues
1. It’s a Jeep
2. It’s a Jeep
3. It’s a Jeep
4. It’s a Jeep
5. It’s not an XJ
What size are those tires?
Very helpful info. Thank you very much. I love to watch your videos.
Good video but there are so many more common problems
Most common problem for me was throttle position sensor and idle air control went through 3 idle air control sensors
1 wiring harness in the dor jambs ( they break over time and kill all the windows.)
2 oil leaks ( mine was from the valve cover (leaked on the exuast, never on the ground)
3 (solid front axel) death wobble ( could be track bar, stabalizer, ball joints, tie rods, control arms, etc.)
That should have been the top 3. Ive never had any of the issues he named in the 4 years i've owned my 04 JEEP grand cherokee 4.7 v8.
The blend doors are a big financial problem. Dealer wanted 1000 to remove dash and determine problem.
+Many feather 2knives Thanks for the feedback!