Be careful on ordering from Amazon. I bought one at a slightly better price and it said genuine GM but it wasn’t. It was some third party. I returned it and put a negative comment for others. Some may not care if it’s not a genuine GM, but for me, especially while under warranty, I want the real deal so if there’s a problem they can’t blame a third party filter. Just my 2 cents.
I really appreciate your page. I did my own Fuel Filter change thanks to you and your awesome videos. The klik wrench you recommended helped as well. Thank you!
The aluminum aftermarket cap has a much different thermal coefficient of expansion than the plastic one. I wonder if this would put additional stress on the plastic mating piece in really hot or cold conditions? I left mine filter system stock but am interested in the RunVSE fuel saver filter system.
It’s a good thing to notice, but in most conditions, the differences will not pose an issue due to part tolerances. Aluminum is 21-24, while ABS glass fiber reinforced plastic is 31. It’s always best to have similar materials, for sure. In this case, the aluminum part goes into the plastic part, and the aluminum has less expansion than the plastic. So if there was an issue, a leak would form due to the plastic get bigger. If it was a plastic housing going into aluminum, then I’d be more concerned about a leak forming due to an actual crack. I think it is OK to run the aluminum cap in my professional opinion. The reason I would not run the aluminum cap is because of GM warranty. They are sticklers and if they find something that isn’t GM, they void the warranty with prejudice.
Notice on 5:07 how the non OEM Fuel Filter aluminum cover bottom is sticking further than the protective buffer surround, what worries me is that id you drive through debree or something catches on underneath the car (like driving over a tire on a highway) it could catch on the fuel filter non OEM aluminum housing and rip entire plastic fuel filter assembly out at speed.....I would leave stock in place unless there is aluminum cover that does not stick father down than OEM
Seems like the aluminum cap would be better for random rocks/road debris. I would love a run vse but have a few filters on hand I will use first. Keep ‘em coming!
I am new to the diesel engines. The way you were demonstrating on removing the fuel filter, I don’t have to take out the whole housing like you did on this video correct? It’s basically like changing the oil filter,. All I have to do is just go underneath and remove the bottom cap and change the filter ?
I may try the metal housing since it is a cyber deal on Amazon right now. I wish that you would have tightened the metal one all the way. I assume it is the same torque specs?
Can I get part number for billet aluminum fuel filter cover for gmc sierra 1500 3.0 duramax and is it any 134001 cover or something else and where you got it and how much. And is any year for 2017 and up. Please send me the details for this part and will that would work. Thank You Frank
can you possibly show how the drain works on the end cap of the fuel filter? if i had done that last fuel filter change it would not have been as messy as it was. i changed at 25k miles and it was pretty dark. i think 30k as GM says it a bit long, next one ill do at the 20k interval
Just did this on my LM2 and my filter did not snap into place as firmly as the stock one, very light engagement into the housing cap. I got paranoid and removed it after installation and found the filter attached to the top of the housing instead of the cap once removed and the inner screen fell out into my drain pan. This appears to be an OEM filter assembly, what would cause this?
The oring is what seals and locks in to place. Just guessing, I don't think it was pushed all the way in to the filter housing bowl before installation. It can be real tough to get it to "lock" into place.
I guess I overtightened my cap last time or didn’t lubricate the o ring enough. But I can not get the cap off. I can’t even get it to budge. Tried socket, filter wrench, and strap wrench. It will not budge. Not even a little.
It happens, I would call up your local dealer for a cost on the whole fuel filter housing. They actually are not that expensive. I am not able to get you a part number at this time, but they can price it out for you and give you a part number. If they are too expensive, nothing wrong with looking at amazon or summit racing for the part. Those two places offer great prices on oem parts.
@DemonWorks I'm in the same boat and have to replace the entire housing. I see in your video you also removed the entire housing. Any additional info I need to know when doing that? Is it the same priming procedure? Any special tools to remove the fuel line or wiring plug? Thanks
@@Durtymax.LM2 priming is the same, check out this video where I removed the old system. VSE Dual Fuel Filter System Saver 3.0 Duramax Diesel Upgrade ua-cam.com/video/HpLy0ZOR9m4/v-deo.html
My ‘23 AT4 won’t prime. I just get the chimes forever. Finally I just decided to start it and it started and ran just fine but there is a sand-hitting-metal sound coming from the gas tank-kind of an air bubble sound but small bubbles. Is there something different about the ‘23s or the GMCs?
I’ve been getting into your videos and appreciate all your good advice. I have question. I got 23 at4 with the LZ0 and I’m having some pretty substantial oil consumption. Roughly 1/2 a quart every 650-750 miles towing about 6k lbs. GM says its within spec and won’t do anything. Truck has 5,500 miles on it. I run Mobil 0w-20 esp x2. You have any advice or recommendations? I saw PPE makes a larger oil pan that adds 2 quarts was considering that. Just looking for any advice. Thanks!
unfortunately, they are not giving you false information. It is within specs and they will burn oil under high stress situations. You can assist that with the larger PPE oil pan, which I have on mine., This gives an additional 2 quarts of oil, but does not fix the issue, just helps to keep the risk lower.
@@DemonWorks appreciate it! That’s probably what I’ll do then for peace of mind with the 2 additional quarts. Yea GM is saying 1 quart per 1k miles of towing which I am pretty close at 1300-1400 miles per quart. Hoping as it breaks in more it’ll consume less oil. Just doesn’t leave the best taste in my mouth about the engine long term.
@rjd827 check out a video that I found that addresses this. GM knows about it and there is a fix. Look for "oil consumption issue finally solved" by Spicer Designs. Good luck
What would cause them to piss fuel out after a change? I think I may have crimped the o ring or something. The first time I did mine it dumped fuel everywhere... I took it back off and moved the o ring around the grove and then it was fine no leaks after that...
Thanks for taking the time to explain this to the lay person. Greatly appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Be careful on ordering from Amazon. I bought one at a slightly better price and it said genuine GM but it wasn’t. It was some third party. I returned it and put a negative comment for others. Some may not care if it’s not a genuine GM, but for me, especially while under warranty, I want the real deal so if there’s a problem they can’t blame a third party filter. Just my 2 cents.
I heard that from a few others as well, that’s why I wanted to show what to look for in this video. Thanks for the info !
@@DemonWorks yup what you show is very important to those who care. Tks.
I really appreciate your page. I did my own Fuel Filter change thanks to you and your awesome videos. The klik wrench you recommended helped as well. Thank you!
The aluminum aftermarket cap has a much different thermal coefficient of expansion than the plastic one. I wonder if this would put additional stress on the plastic mating piece in really hot or cold conditions? I left mine filter system stock but am interested in the RunVSE fuel saver filter system.
It’s a good thing to notice, but in most conditions, the differences will not pose an issue due to part tolerances. Aluminum is 21-24, while ABS glass fiber reinforced plastic is 31. It’s always best to have similar materials, for sure. In this case, the aluminum part goes into the plastic part, and the aluminum has less expansion than the plastic. So if there was an issue, a leak would form due to the plastic get bigger. If it was a plastic housing going into aluminum, then I’d be more concerned about a leak forming due to an actual crack. I think it is OK to run the aluminum cap in my professional opinion. The reason I would not run the aluminum cap is because of GM warranty. They are sticklers and if they find something that isn’t GM, they void the warranty with prejudice.
Notice on 5:07 how the non OEM Fuel Filter aluminum cover bottom is sticking further than the protective buffer surround, what worries me is that id you drive through debree or something catches on underneath the car (like driving over a tire on a highway) it could catch on the fuel filter non OEM aluminum housing and rip entire plastic fuel filter assembly out at speed.....I would leave stock in place unless there is aluminum cover that does not stick father down than OEM
Seems like the aluminum cap would be better for random rocks/road debris. I would love a run vse but have a few filters on hand I will use first. Keep ‘em coming!
Great point! Thank you ! After sema, I will cut open the fuel filters on the VSE system to see what they caught.
I am new to the diesel engines. The way you were demonstrating on removing the fuel filter, I don’t have to take out the whole housing like you did on this video correct? It’s basically like changing the oil filter,. All I have to do is just go underneath and remove the bottom cap and change the filter ?
Correct : DIY - Fuel Filter Change - How GM wants the Techs to do it - LM2 Duramax
ua-cam.com/video/-GRS9glAYqs/v-deo.html
I may try the metal housing since it is a cyber deal on Amazon right now. I wish that you would have tightened the metal one all the way. I assume it is the same torque specs?
Yes, complete the combo with the Klick Wrench socket so then there are no worries of over tightening. amzn.to/3RpPMKt
Are the L5P fuel filter caps the same as the LM2/LZ0? Seems like there are a lot more vendors offering a metal version of the L5P caps?
Do you need special GM tools to remove and reattach the fuel lines when you reinstall the entire unit?
No special tools needed. I show how to disconnect the housing in this video: ua-cam.com/video/HpLy0ZOR9m4/v-deo.html
RUN VSE does that void warranty
Can I get part number for billet aluminum fuel filter cover for gmc sierra 1500 3.0 duramax and is it any 134001 cover or something else and where you got it and how much. And is any year for 2017 and up. Please send me the details for this part and will that would work. Thank You Frank
Right here: Fuel Filter: amzn.to/46GD2nL
36mm Socket: amzn.to/40nuNur
Filter Housing: amzn.to/3Qj8ql8
How long did you hold the start button down??
5 seconds?
how tight should you tighten the cap?
25Nm is what it says on the cap
can you possibly show how the drain works on the end cap of the fuel filter? if i had done that last fuel filter change it would not have been as messy as it was. i changed at 25k miles and it was pretty dark. i think 30k as GM says it a bit long, next one ill do at the 20k interval
Yes, that is shown in another video I have ua-cam.com/video/-GRS9glAYqs/v-deo.html
If the truck is old school with no push to start, I’m guessing just turn the key one click over to accessory?
Do you still recommend the VSE fuel filter?
Still running my VSE filter setup, yes. It's a great peace of mind item for sure!
I went to order the fuel filter housing from the link you have attached, and it reflects its for a L5P. Does this fuel filter housing work on the LZO?
Sorry for the late reply, yes, it's the same filter and housing cap. Prime day deal now has it for just $35 amzn.to/3WoOOR3
When you say hold is that just a good press or actually hold for 5 seconds? First time Duramax owner
hold for 5 seconds
I always got a tiny drip on my 6.6 fuel filter through the cap o-ring. Tiny bit of Vaseline on the o-ring stopped it though.
The housing of 6.6 is the same of 3.0 duramax?
the lower portion is 100%. Some L5P housings run the lines different for in and out, so not necessarily the same on "ALL" models.
How much fuel should I anticipate will drain out?
half a cup to full cup maybe?
How often should you change the fuel filter?
Recommended is every 30,000mi or 24 months which ever comes first
The gauge shows how much life is left, I typically swap at 15k miles though.
Just did this on my LM2 and my filter did not snap into place as firmly as the stock one, very light engagement into the housing cap. I got paranoid and removed it after installation and found the filter attached to the top of the housing instead of the cap once removed and the inner screen fell out into my drain pan. This appears to be an OEM filter assembly, what would cause this?
The oring is what seals and locks in to place. Just guessing, I don't think it was pushed all the way in to the filter housing bowl before installation. It can be real tough to get it to "lock" into place.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man! Great detailed vids!
I guess I overtightened my cap last time or didn’t lubricate the o ring enough. But I can not get the cap off. I can’t even get it to budge. Tried socket, filter wrench, and strap wrench. It will not budge. Not even a little.
It happens, I would call up your local dealer for a cost on the whole fuel filter housing. They actually are not that expensive. I am not able to get you a part number at this time, but they can price it out for you and give you a part number. If they are too expensive, nothing wrong with looking at amazon or summit racing for the part. Those two places offer great prices on oem parts.
@DemonWorks I'm in the same boat and have to replace the entire housing. I see in your video you also removed the entire housing. Any additional info I need to know when doing that? Is it the same priming procedure? Any special tools to remove the fuel line or wiring plug? Thanks
@@Durtymax.LM2 priming is the same, check out this video where I removed the old system. VSE Dual Fuel Filter System Saver 3.0 Duramax Diesel Upgrade
ua-cam.com/video/HpLy0ZOR9m4/v-deo.html
My ‘23 AT4 won’t prime. I just get the chimes forever. Finally I just decided to start it and it started and ran just fine but there is a sand-hitting-metal sound coming from the gas tank-kind of an air bubble sound but small bubbles. Is there something different about the ‘23s or the GMCs?
no difference, if it started and continued to run then it was primed. The gas tank sound is probably your pump continuing to prime all of the air out.
Thanks-wasn’t sure if it would lead to a problem or not.
I’ve been getting into your videos and appreciate all your good advice. I have question. I got 23 at4 with the LZ0 and I’m having some pretty substantial oil consumption. Roughly 1/2 a quart every 650-750 miles towing about 6k lbs. GM says its within spec and won’t do anything. Truck has 5,500 miles on it. I run Mobil 0w-20 esp x2. You have any advice or recommendations? I saw PPE makes a larger oil pan that adds 2 quarts was considering that. Just looking for any advice. Thanks!
unfortunately, they are not giving you false information. It is within specs and they will burn oil under high stress situations. You can assist that with the larger PPE oil pan, which I have on mine., This gives an additional 2 quarts of oil, but does not fix the issue, just helps to keep the risk lower.
@@DemonWorks appreciate it! That’s probably what I’ll do then for peace of mind with the 2 additional quarts. Yea GM is saying 1 quart per 1k miles of towing which I am pretty close at 1300-1400 miles per quart. Hoping as it breaks in more it’ll consume less oil. Just doesn’t leave the best taste in my mouth about the engine long term.
Great video. Thanks 👍
@rjd827 check out a video that I found that addresses this. GM knows about it and there is a fix. Look for "oil consumption issue finally solved" by Spicer Designs. Good luck
@@gregoryhosko1294 I have an LZ0 not the Lm2 unfortunately
36 mm 6 point socket and use a little bit of Vaseline on the O-ring
Great break down, love the puppy pee pad for a spill pad
That's an adult pad
Thank you for the work you do.
Much appreciated !
What would cause them to piss fuel out after a change? I think I may have crimped the o ring or something. The first time I did mine it dumped fuel everywhere... I took it back off and moved the o ring around the grove and then it was fine no leaks after that...
O ring not seated properly is all, you fixed it, did all of the right steps!
how does one reach out to you through email or any other ways for questions?
mstrgoodwrench@gmail.com is my email
Any else have issues resetting fuel filter life
Mine doesn’t reset when holding down reset , my oil life did when I changed oil ?
Sometimes it doesn't register the reset until after you power down and restart.
make sure the door is closed and the engine is not running.
If the engine is already running it won't reset until you restart.
Thanks!
Your support is greatly appreciated!
I don’t believe a Chinese aluminum cap is better than the OEM plastic one.
Noted !
Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thanks for supporting the channel !