@teddy_awdB19 vehicle will be coming back to me in the next month... the car does have an oil consumption issue. The 0w20 ran low today, actually (10/13/24). the owner and I were talking today about the oil light flashing at him and plans to drop it off in upcoming days. The plan is to change the viscosity to 5w30 in efforts to slow the oil loss. The vehicle made it approximately 2200 miles before running low on oil and needing to be topped off, which isn't the worst I've seen. The 5w30 should slow the loss to 3k miles. Worse case, move to a 10w30 or 10w40 and recheck. This is my normal procedure in efforts to control oil consumption due to internal ring issues with high success. This is what different weight oil is designed for. Next video, I'll show the current progress with previous flush and what oreillys brand oil have done if any changes were made cleaning bottom end with that brand oil. Then we'll perform another flush with diesel, visual inspection, and oil change, hopefully with another 3k miles update. Too add.. I don't expect the flush to fix the oil consumption as there many variables that causes this, cylinder wall issues, bore deformation, rings and valve seals or combo of all above! The main premise of this is to clean! "If" the oil consumption get resolved in the process (which I don't expect from dealing with engines), then great! Hope this update was sufficient
Brother! What r you doing?? After that flush maybe it will increase the problem! All that sludge could clog the oil pump , actually the oil pump strainer could be clogged now. Please open the oil pan and pump and clean them properly
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several disclaimers.
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene, idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms, It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made. Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid. So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the idiots giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package. As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals. Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉 I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue. Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years! Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎 I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
I DRAINED MY DIESEL FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP LEFT IT A DAY DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE. DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE. ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH. DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
Have you tried ATS 505CRO? I've never used it with that much sludge, but I've had great results with moderate buildup. It definitely costs more than what you used, but your results may be better. great video 👍
How does a sludge build up, although am not expert but have had cars for long time, sludge build from escape of gases onto the chambers from failed piston rings and valve seals. For such extensive build up I'd do engine rebuild after cleaning.
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
And most of the rest of the world are on 2 year 24k miles oil changes with no issues and the oil has been tested and it’s still serviceable. Was this inferior oil?
@gazbev1423 low friction rings, low viscosity oil coupled with neglect promotes oil consumption which can expedite sludge build up. They should've keep oil service interval up and yes, could've been oil quality like you said. But they should've actually changed the oil!
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff. Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up. Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
I have a question. What if I fill a gasoline engine with a diesel to brim and remove the spark plugs and fill the combustion chambers also to the top? And leave it to sit for a next 24 hours. Would that do damage to the engine gaskets and sealing and would that remove the carbon build up on a surface of a pistons?
@markosedlarik9553 diesel is less volatile than gas, is more oily for lubrication, no fumes for contamination of engine oil causing rich codes, and is universally used for cheap parts cleaner. Gas will create more issues than none in comparison to diesel. Gas clean, but it isn't the safest route. I have never seen a gas engine oil flush, but due to its volatility, lack of lubrication and it's ability to create rich conditions when small amounts are mixed with engine oil, on direct injected engines. This just logically doesn't make sense to do. If you do attempt it, do a video... I'll watch your results
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine. This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil. I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil. But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire! Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
I use a 1 litre of mineral turps when I flush my V8 Mercedes it's an 01 ML 500 and it works good,fast idle ten minutes and drain for a few hrs,oil is clean..
My late brother-in-law was a warrant officer mechanic in the UK army Royal Electrical Mechanical Engineers he always put diesel in engines to clean them up kk
I would maybe have just changed the oil every 3000 miles for a few times until the dipstick stayed clean. 🤷🏻♂️ I really hope the engine isn’t ruined now.
Pennzoil ultra platinum will protect your engine better. Cleaning the engine isn’t necessary with restore and protect if the engine is already clean. The oil film from penzoil ultra platinum is second only to amsoil at half the price
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
I would personally not service that car too much liability. The fact that they try to tell you you were the last one to change the oil they are looking to pin the fault on you. Soon after if this engine fails your pretty much left to pick up the tab by being the last one to touch it.
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
Drain old oil and replace filter, add some cheap engine oil add the engine flush to the engine, then take the car for a spin upto operating temperature. Drain oil and replace filter, top up with your normal top quality oil. Job done the oil will be as clear as honey thecengine has been deep cleaned.
Its amazing it hadn't seized with that amount of sludge, & the fact it was run so low. There's no way it had an oil change 2 years/20k ago, thats done at least double that. I`ve seen women & elderly people ripped off like this so many times. I dread to think what the bearings/oil pump & finer oilways are like now. Was worth a try with the diesel/trans fluid mix, I`d have been tempted to do another flush with actual oil flush immediately after, with another filter, & I`d have refilled it with diesel oil the third time, probably a 5/40 or so, as diesel oil has more detergents to deal with sludge & soot. It`ll make the exhaust smell a bit funny, & can cause a degree of blocking of the catalyst, but at this stage, the owners really not got much to lose..
if that sticker was the last oil change it went 22,399 miles on that oil and filter. Not that far off the new 20,000 miles some new synthetic oils say they are good for. Food for thought
I just watched an older one from garage 54 and when he removed the valve cover he couldn't tell he had done anything to it it looked like it does nothing and I've seen somebody else do that where I thought will man that was a 100 plus dollar for nothing
@nikyclau3966 I don't down my clients like that 🤣🤣. I can't fault people on their ignorance, just allow their ignorance to play out. I'm here to resolve their ignorance
what a mess. sorry you ahveto deal with lazy, blaming people like this. Clearly you weren't the guy who changed it last, and I'm glad you took a camera and gatheed evidence of that. the diesel was a good idea. I wonder what lucas oil and sea foam would've done. maybe something similar. I'm curious to see the update.
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
@foffplease3944 "supposedly" this actually work though. Direct injection engine are naturally loud. This why they have lots of insulation in and around the engine
Ok, 20,000 miles but how many hours of engine running? A city car doing 20,000miles would have 20 + times the actual engine running hours of a country vehicle doing interstate travel. Also low speed engine running adds a heap of extra carbon/oil contamination to the engine than an engine sitting at 2 to 3 thousand rpm at hours at a time. Cars need hour meters like industrial engines.
I hear a quart of ATF does a safer version of flushing the engine junk. It’s thicker than diesel plus it has a huge amount of detergents already added to it. ✌️
Once upon a time this was true about 30 years ago now a days the detergent level of modern oil is much much higher in the oil than it is in the transmission
I think that diesel is too sharp.! U will however have to spend a few dollars, on several oil changes, before u see signs of change.! The sludge buildup was quite concentrated.! U can however properly clean out the oil filter, & reuse it until u see changes, & then use a new one when u have derived the results which u r seeking.! Buy a few tins of BG engine performance restoration chemical.! It will greatly break down the sludge.! Be sure to follow the directions as specified for the BG chemical.!
All these newer engines be sounding like they have lifter issues or rod knock with all that ticking noise lol. Get an old school Benz that runs on tractor oil and just be done with these juvenile issues lol.
Just because you have the engine running doesn’t mean anything. In the sludge is carbon deposits and metal that can be hard enough to score bearings and plug up oil passages causing more problems not far down the road. When engines are this bad , you rebuild them or swap them out. All the flushing in the world will not clean out your piston rings and you’ll still end up with a dead engine. When you see the intake camshaft lobe you see a lot of scoring . If you had the time you could have removed the valve cover and used a shop vac to remove the worst of the sludge build up and inspect the cam shafts ,valve seals , etc and if you removed the oil pan you could have cleaned and inspected the oil pick up strainer . Is that detailed enough for ya bud ?!?
I mean if it's an American or German motor I'd agree done a diesel flush on a old Toyota pickup and 11 4runner both bought used I flushed with some diesel and 10w30 and they run smoothly
Ya, you try and concice a customer that a 5000$ engine/job is better than trying to flush. If it gets the engine another 50k miles then it worked lol. You facebook "mechanics" love to immediately reccomend people rebuild engines and want people to spend 1000s immediately without at least trying to save it. I cant tell you how many engines ive seen saved when a simple flush and thicker oil kept it running a few more YEARS
Update?
@teddy_awdB19 vehicle will be coming back to me in the next month... the car does have an oil consumption issue. The 0w20 ran low today, actually (10/13/24). the owner and I were talking today about the oil light flashing at him and plans to drop it off in upcoming days.
The plan is to change the viscosity to 5w30 in efforts to slow the oil loss. The vehicle made it approximately 2200 miles before running low on oil and needing to be topped off, which isn't the worst I've seen. The 5w30 should slow the loss to 3k miles. Worse case, move to a 10w30 or 10w40 and recheck. This is my normal procedure in efforts to control oil consumption due to internal ring issues with high success. This is what different weight oil is designed for.
Next video, I'll show the current progress with previous flush and what oreillys brand oil have done if any changes were made cleaning bottom end with that brand oil. Then we'll perform another flush with diesel, visual inspection, and oil change, hopefully with another 3k miles update.
Too add.. I don't expect the flush to fix the oil consumption as there many variables that causes this, cylinder wall issues, bore deformation, rings and valve seals or combo of all above! The main premise of this is to clean! "If" the oil consumption get resolved in the process (which I don't expect from dealing with engines), then great!
Hope this update was sufficient
@@partsshooter thanks for the update!
@@partsshooter if you want to use ticker oil, use 5w30 or 5w40, 10wXY doesnt do too much, only does worse
Vavoline Restore and Protect will reduce the oil consumption. But it will take several thousand miles to fully loosen up the piston rings.
Brother! What r you doing?? After that flush maybe it will increase the problem! All that sludge could clog the oil pump , actually the oil pump strainer could be clogged now. Please open the oil pan and pump and clean them properly
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several disclaimers.
Wrong... You should donate a brand new engine to the customer
@@GOLTURBO555 Slide your mechanic’s number please, I’m in the market for a free engine!
On an Infiniti, no less!!!😮
Fact
I would turn it away before it blew up in my shop. 😂
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
@@johnarnold893 Seafoam is mostly diesel fuel
Transmission is sae30. Wouldnt load the engine but idling ok
I de-sludged my (somewhat "neglected") GM V6 with a couple of kerosene flushes.
Worked BRILLIANTLY.
How much kerosene?
Bingo!
@@Christopherbeveradd quart to old oil, warmed up. Run 10 mins and change oil.
@@constitutionalUSA thanks! I read the ingredients on off the shelf flushes and it’s basically kerosene diesel and some other stuff
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene,
idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms,
It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made.
Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
Does really mixing ATF gear oil and cheap oil can flush engine well ? How many times in this car case will it clean like brand new ?
Charles when you say a couple of quarts to oil!.. what size engine are you refering!..I have 4 cylinder motor.
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid.
So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@WilliamMeans-u5v lol... 98 percent of people on my channel don't listen 😆
@@partsshooter Its a CellPhone BRAIN DEAD society we are in. Cant hear anything whatsoever.
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the idiots giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
@@partsshooterHuh, what did you say? lol
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package.
As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals.
Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
I could be wrong but I don’t think this engine is particularly modern
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉
I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
And whatnot, ...for example, now we see a bicycle chain in the distribution and another as fragile for the oil pump.
@@alfonsoaslbox4121 that too
I've got a 2008 car with a 1.5L diesel in it that's done maybe 150,000 miles and I wouldn't do this flush on even that car while it's running fine.
I'm surprised this engine still runs as well as it does with all that sludge.
Should refill with diesel engine oil , has detergent in it ?
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue.
Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years!
Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎
I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
That engine has probably lost half it's life from running that sludge.
Bg extreme flush is your only man . 2 5 litre bottles one flush and one rinsed . If the dirt falls to fast it blocks the pick up end of engine
I DRAINED MY DIESEL
FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP
LEFT IT A DAY
DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE.
DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE.
ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY
ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH.
DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
Valvoline Restore & Protect. I hear very positive things about it for deposits but for sludge?
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
The owner of that car should be reported to the SPCA Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Automobiles.....
Any updates on the car now? Is it still sludged up?
Mann and Hummel oil filters are top notch german quality....I am pretty sure, it is the first filter this car was equipped with when new
using this technique learned it from my father long time good job
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
I’ve done this before with diesel no issues.
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
Its a bad idea
@@fritzsnickerz855try it first. Then speak
That Chocolate syrup is meant to lubricate the oil cap and dip stick, totally fine!
Will Vaseline work next time?
I agree that diesel is a very good engine cleaner.i just have one concern: will it not ignite bcos of the high temperatures in an engine?
This engine really clatters for sure. Seems the flush is working fella.
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
The pickup probably got blocked.
There's no other explanation
@@CableWrestler I don't remember us finding anything in the pickup.
@@T_Burd_75 you should have put more oil in and dropped it again
@@leeyo5494 Coulda, shoulda, woulda...
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
💯
Absolutely. Drop the oil pan and clean the pickup. Obviously if the owner isn’t going to pay for that…it’s not going to happen.
Have you tried ATS 505CRO? I've never used it with that much sludge, but I've had great results with moderate buildup. It definitely costs more than what you used, but your results may be better. great video 👍
I doubt the previous mechanic actually changed the oil. There’s no way that that much sludge for 20,000 miles.
Did like you several times, all ok .
No damage whatsoever
It really is shameful the way some people treat their vehicles.
quality work. thanks for sharing your techniques. subscribed.
How does a sludge build up, although am not expert but have had cars for long time, sludge build from escape of gases onto the chambers from failed piston rings and valve seals. For such extensive build up I'd do engine rebuild after cleaning.
Customer apparently didn't want to pay 42 oil flushes you think you can get them to pay for a tear down of the engine
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
I wouldn't go over half n half due to oil thinning. Also, don't stress it by driving it. Ask my #3 rod bearing why that is.😢
And most of the rest of the world are on 2 year 24k miles oil changes with no issues and the oil has been tested and it’s still serviceable.
Was this inferior oil?
@gazbev1423 low friction rings, low viscosity oil coupled with neglect promotes oil consumption which can expedite sludge build up.
They should've keep oil service interval up and yes, could've been oil quality like you said. But they should've actually changed the oil!
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
@@momoloo141 why not use it with modern diesel today?
Great job dad 👏 😊
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff.
Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up.
Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
Which car has 20k miles oil change interval recommended?
most new cars in europe... around 15-20k miles
I have a question. What if I fill a gasoline engine with a diesel to brim and remove the spark plugs and fill the combustion chambers also to the top? And leave it to sit for a next 24 hours.
Would that do damage to the engine gaskets and sealing and would that remove the carbon build up on a surface of a pistons?
@markosedlarik9553 diesel is less volatile than gas, is more oily for lubrication, no fumes for contamination of engine oil causing rich codes, and is universally used for cheap parts cleaner.
Gas will create more issues than none in comparison to diesel. Gas clean, but it isn't the safest route. I have never seen a gas engine oil flush, but due to its volatility, lack of lubrication and it's ability to create rich conditions when small amounts are mixed with engine oil, on direct injected engines. This just logically doesn't make sense to do.
If you do attempt it, do a video... I'll watch your results
Ask any younger generation folks, when the last time they checked their oil level. Youll be amazed how many blank stares you get lol
Use ATF! Automatic Transmission Fluid! It has detergents and lubricant.
You should try using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. That would be the real deal.
They changed the oil every 50k miles?
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses
AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine.
This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
The correct thing to do is dismantle the entire engine and wash it in a industrial engine wash unit
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
If we had to wait until everything was perfect we'd never get anything done.
I'm sure if you prepay to have him tear out that engine and put it back in probably around $4500 he'll be more than happy to do that
yeah you were the last person to do the oil change. 3 years ago LOL
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
You should try the restore and protect oil advertised for cleaning piston ring area.
great video, i will do this with my car to clean out the sludge.
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil.
I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil.
But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire!
Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
Is a diesel flush safe with a car with a turbo?
I use a 1 litre of mineral turps when I flush my V8 Mercedes it's an 01 ML 500 and it works good,fast idle ten minutes and drain for a few hrs,oil is clean..
My late brother-in-law was a warrant officer mechanic in the UK army Royal Electrical Mechanical Engineers he always put diesel in engines to clean them up kk
I would maybe have just changed the oil every 3000 miles for a few times until the dipstick stayed clean. 🤷🏻♂️ I really hope the engine isn’t ruined now.
Amsoil engine flush and Valvoline restore and protect will be your best option
Pennzoil ultra platinum will protect your engine better. Cleaning the engine isn’t necessary with restore and protect if the engine is already clean. The oil film from penzoil ultra platinum is second only to amsoil at half the price
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it
You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil
You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
Omg, oil is like treacle!
I also wonder how bad the air filter is? If it's really bad? Then perhaps all that dirt is getting into the engine and sludging it up?
how?
How would you drain that? It's not even like a liquid at this point. Can you say motor oil is a liquid? That ish is like thicker than molasses
@@michaelpickarts7683 through dilution.... the thin cleaning properties from diesel will mix with the thick old oil and thin it out
I would personally not service that car too much liability. The fact that they try to tell you you were the last one to change the oil they are looking to pin the fault on you. Soon after if this engine fails your pretty much left to pick up the tab by being the last one to touch it.
He has it on video. He should be fine.
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
@@JPRD2379 by your logic, you're saying this engine will be broken in 3 months?
Brother, modern engine bearings are FARRR different material thant he 70/80s
@@partsshooter I assume that diesel engine flush would have ruined the bearings
@@aurorayoru5333 you ASSume
If you use diesel to flush your engine don't run too long cuz it'll wipe out your seals on your engine
Drain old oil and replace filter, add some cheap engine oil add the engine flush to the engine, then take the car for a spin upto operating temperature. Drain oil and replace filter, top up with your normal top quality oil. Job done the oil will be as clear as honey thecengine has been deep cleaned.
Its amazing it hadn't seized with that amount of sludge, & the fact it was run so low. There's no way it had an oil change 2 years/20k ago, thats done at least double that. I`ve seen women & elderly people ripped off like this so many times. I dread to think what the bearings/oil pump & finer oilways are like now. Was worth a try with the diesel/trans fluid mix, I`d have been tempted to do another flush with actual oil flush immediately after, with another filter, & I`d have refilled it with diesel oil the third time, probably a 5/40 or so, as diesel oil has more detergents to deal with sludge & soot. It`ll make the exhaust smell a bit funny, & can cause a degree of blocking of the catalyst, but at this stage, the owners really not got much to lose..
Im not sure i would run diesel with that thin of an oil, maybe a little bit thicker, but this definitely works well.
What would happen if you used gasoline instead? I know it's a fire hazard but maybe not run it longer than a few minutes and let it sit for a bit.
No lubrication in gasoline, bearings would be damaged by friction.
This is now a proper hybrid car Diesel+Gasoline powered 😂
if that sticker was the last oil change it went 22,399 miles on that oil and filter. Not that far off the new 20,000 miles some new synthetic oils say they are good for. Food for thought
Excellent demo, Thank u.
Try Valvoline clean & restore it works!
It works a treat !!
Have you consider BG cleaner and rinser?
I just watched an older one from garage 54 and when he removed the valve cover he couldn't tell he had done anything to it it looked like it does nothing and I've seen somebody else do that where I thought will man that was a 100 plus dollar for nothing
Send it on its way. Looks like set up.
i am a mechanic if someone is bringing the car to me like that i will tell them they"re awfull how can you keep a car like that
@nikyclau3966 I don't down my clients like that 🤣🤣. I can't fault people on their ignorance, just allow their ignorance to play out. I'm here to resolve their ignorance
Old gas tractor manuals talk about flushing all areas of the tractor with diesel. 50/50 mix.
0w20 wrong oil for this motor even if it new the right 5w40 for many miles
run it on 50% oil 5w30 and 50% seafoam for few days, repeat 3 times until comes clean, inside valve cover clean it manually with a brush
what a mess. sorry you ahveto deal with lazy, blaming people like this. Clearly you weren't the guy who changed it last, and I'm glad you took a camera and gatheed evidence of that. the diesel was a good idea. I wonder what lucas oil and sea foam would've done. maybe something similar. I'm curious to see the update.
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
10:32 sounds terrific! There's an valvoline oil that supposedly cleans the engine over a long period of time. Valvoline restore and protect.
@foffplease3944 "supposedly" this actually work though.
Direct injection engine are naturally loud. This why they have lots of insulation in and around the engine
I don't suppose you watched this in a video about a Honda Civic having high oil consumption, did you?
@@CableWrestler no on the motor oil geek channel.
@@partsshooter Not this loud, all the direct injections engines we have here in europe don't sound that scary.
@@foffplease3944 ok... based on your knowledge, what's going to happen in the next 3 months?
Ok, 20,000 miles but how many hours of engine running? A city car doing 20,000miles would have 20 + times the actual engine running hours of a country vehicle doing interstate travel.
Also low speed engine running adds a heap of extra carbon/oil contamination to the engine than an engine sitting at 2 to 3 thousand rpm at hours at a time.
Cars need hour meters like industrial engines.
I hear a quart of ATF does a safer version of flushing the engine junk. It’s thicker than diesel plus it has a huge amount of detergents already added to it. ✌️
Once upon a time this was true about 30 years ago now a days the detergent level of modern oil is much much higher in the oil than it is in the transmission
wow cool video, surprised that engine runs as quite as it does after all that neglect 😂.
Has money for an Infiniti, but no money for oil changes??? 🤣
I reckon you'd be better off to fill the engine right to the top with diesel and let it sit a few days, then let it drain a few days
Done this to a few engines over the years. It works great sometimes.
Best combination is half diesel and half engine oil let the engine run for only 10 minutes and then change first oil after only 200 miles
Try the new Valvoline protect and restore for 1000miles to see if that new oil claims are true :)
I think that diesel is too sharp.! U will however have to spend a few dollars, on several oil changes, before u see signs of change.! The sludge buildup was quite concentrated.! U can however properly clean out the oil filter, & reuse it until u see changes, & then use a new one when u have derived the results which u r seeking.! Buy a few tins of BG engine performance restoration chemical.! It will greatly break down the sludge.! Be sure to follow the directions as specified for the BG chemical.!
All these newer engines be sounding like they have lifter issues or rod knock with all that ticking noise lol. Get an old school Benz that runs on tractor oil and just be done with these juvenile issues lol.
@@brittanywright9646 absolutely not! 😆 🤣 😂 everyone be going to mcdonald's buying their used oil
Looks like the owner needs to pay up for the work and lack of maintenance
Just because you have the engine running doesn’t mean anything.
In the sludge is carbon deposits and metal that can be hard enough to score bearings and plug up oil passages causing more problems not far down the road.
When engines are this bad , you rebuild them or swap them out.
All the flushing in the world will not clean out your piston rings and you’ll still end up with a dead engine.
When you see the intake camshaft lobe you see a lot of scoring . If you had the time you could have removed the valve cover and used a shop vac to remove the worst of the sludge build up and inspect the cam shafts ,valve seals , etc and if you removed the oil pan you could have cleaned and inspected the oil pick up strainer .
Is that detailed enough for ya bud ?!?
Agreed.
You're setting yourself up for replacing that engine later on down the road mate.
I mean if it's an American or German motor I'd agree done a diesel flush on a old Toyota pickup and 11 4runner both bought used I flushed with some diesel and 10w30 and they run smoothly
Ya, you try and concice a customer that a 5000$ engine/job is better than trying to flush. If it gets the engine another 50k miles then it worked lol. You facebook "mechanics" love to immediately reccomend people rebuild engines and want people to spend 1000s immediately without at least trying to save it. I cant tell you how many engines ive seen saved when a simple flush and thicker oil kept it running a few more YEARS