As a painter i can say he is right about everything he said. The only thing that i would suggest is to do one coat of epoxy and then a second coat of regular (urethane) primer. This eliminates the hassle of sanding epoxy which as we know is very gummy to sand. Most epoxy primers have a darker color wich is good because it serves as a guide so you don't sand off too much material when preping for paint.
You are exactly right. Epoxies are by nature gummy and hard to sand but they have better adhesion properties than urethane primers. There are some "hybrid" epoxies that are easier to sand, but generally speaking, putting a urethane primer over the epoxy is an excellent recommendation.
@@lyetorres3681 Depending on temperature, 15-30 minute flash then the urethane primer. You have a relatively long window over the epoxy because they take a long time to cure.
Hey Brian, let's not forget I sent you to the first day of school with a black eye back in the 90's. lol Was just looking for a rust repair vid for this truck I picked up at auction and here you are. Hope all is well.
Great informative video. I spent my afternoon 80 grit sanding my roof to remove crows feet cracking from an accident repair. Came out great and was able to repair some rust starting along the top of the windshield. Ready for a 180 sand and epoxy now!
Love Eastwood stuff. One day I will get the P500 and CC500. Been using the LT100 (had a small compressor), upgraded the compressor, now gotta wait for a sale!
I've been absolutely loving your videos. They're honestly some of the most informative videos on the subject of automotive painting I've found. Almost has a "this old house" quality feeling. Have you used air powered random orbital sanders before? I've never used a direct radial sander for stripping before; I'm curious how they compare.
I just did my entirely rusted out roof over 2 summers on my toyota, I was glad to see you left some of that super deep black pitting behind. I spent a LOT of hard work trying to remove that and c ould not, I just epoxied over it. I guess perhaps i'll be okay! Roofs are a SUPER PAIN! MAN all those other cars in the shop are COMPLETELY caked in dust!
I work on old cars, and that car didn't have any serious rust! One I'm doing now, actually had surface rust so bad, when I removed it (first shot) with a wire wheel, there were spots with holes all the way through.
Excellent video and great channel, I teach at the largest school for collision/refinishing in Oklahoma and use your videos frequently in class for some variety, because I agree with most all of what you do or show on the channel! Great job Brian!
Great video and I have done this. My problem is the fine airborne dust that covers everything in my garage much like it covered the vehicles around you. After my last project I have fine paint dust in areas that I will never be able to totally get rid of. I’ve decided I need to build a sanding “tent” with homemade filtration system. I will always try do this outside as weather permits. Everyone needs know about the potential dust issue.
The new paint strippers are junk. I’ve been using a strip disk. It’s like a scuff pad but very corse. Works great but man it gets dust everywhere. You’ve got some great content on your video. Thanks for sharing.
They took out the Methylene Chloride which was the key ingredient in stripping paint. I haven't found anything that is as effective as the old paint strippers.
If you do body filler on bare metal, rust will creep under the paint then blow thru at weakest line. First seal up with epoxy then scuff n mud it the way you do. You are a real painter man greetings from overseas/ istanbul
Hey man, not sure if you will see this comment but you have a recent-ish comment. The hood of my roof has the colour totally faded but it also has star like scratches all over as well. What grit sand paper do you recommend for that? Then I have some peeling paint (looks like clear coat with some base coat) on the bumper. Which grit would you recommend for that? Then the areas where the paint is still in good condition, which grit sandpaper should I use? Thank you very much for your time.
I do wish you showed the process getting to that point on the roof. Which things are important to take off and what things you decided to keep and why. Otherwise however this whole series is excellent. I just came back looking for this video as Im literally going through this process, even down to the two tone.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm just starting to work on my truck and this came a great time. Planning to do metal repair/replacement and then sand and prime and then do remaining body work. Since it's cold up here in the northeast I don't think I can get my garage/shop to stay above 60 degrees for very long so I don't think I can spray.
Bro I watch all ur videos I'm coming close to starting my 88 turbo 2 rx7 after that my 93 lx foxbody and My lexus sc400 which is black and that's the hardest gonna get ready to buy my guns and supplies u hit this detail for detail I can't wait bless u u've been great keep these video coming 👍☝️
So funny, I am watching this video while I am waiting for that exact same epoxy (1:1) to flash on my '68 Triumph Spitfire ... one coat before I put on the ... Eastwood urethane primer (4:1:1) in my garage / DYI paintbooth
wire brushes on a variable speed angle grinder(Dewalt DWE43240INOX) on slow speed. Hit any deep pits with minor rust with acid based metal cleaner. Never had issues. Wire brushes gets at most contours, that disks can't always get at, especially bad pits. Just finished major rust repairs on the inside wheel wells using wire brushes. I have a vacuum sand blaster and find the slow speed wire brush is cleaner, and faster. I have an Eastwood Contour tool I waiting to use once it shows up.
I have a 8" RSJ outside - Irish weather, it rains a lot here, everything rusts - one side is treated with my rust killer, the other side isn't. It's been sat out there for 2, maybe 3 years now - it isn't painted, no grinding was done, it just got 1 coat on 1 side of my mix, with zero prep. The treated side looks exactly how it looked when first treated - jet black, no rust, no bubbling. Identical to how it looked before it got chucked out into the weather. The untreated side is a rusted mess that looks like the hull of a shipwreck. Whenever a customer comes in asks what can we do for them & their rust I just show them the RSJ. They look at the 2 sides & the "sales" phase is over. I have the best rust-killer treatment going - nothing you can buy off a shelf comes even close. Most "bought" stuff actually makes it worse, long term - our stuff doesn't - it just kills rust. I invite customers to poke, scrape, bang, hit - do what they like to our finish - loads have given it a hammering - it self-heals so what they do doesn't matter. I'm fixing rust since I was 15 - when I welded on my first old car. I only now have a solution for rust that works long term - 35 years of learning. Making it sprayable from a schutz gun changed the rust-game here - we can now treat box-sections/cavities - it was originally only brush-apply.
and the best method to prevent the coming of rust is grease , you should put grease everywhere. grease is the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside the body - hidden erea - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. Rust almost always comes from the inside and welds. Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
I love watching your videos Brian, very relaxing to watch all the great transformations on the channel. I have an older truck I would love to see on your channel being renovated. Send me some contact information so I can send you some pictures and see if my truck comes to see Uncle brian😂.
Just wanted to say first, thank you for all the knowledge!! I appreciate you and the content. Do you have a video directed towards minor fender rust repaint and hood rock chips repairs? Keep crushing it!
Can you make sure (in an upcoming vid) to give good pointers for methods to clean up and de-rust the inside area of the doors where the skin wraps to the door frame? This seems to be a bad spot on these and many others!
Great video, but wish you would have talked more about the rust as that is what the title is about. I guess you are saying , remove as much as you can by sanding, then the epoxy application should convert or seal the rust?
Love the say n don't over think it it's jus paint I have mentality now I use it in my every day life like my job in hvac keep them videos coming I really learn alot thanks again
Watching your video I am absolutely amazed at how fast you cut the paint off with your sanders. I am working on a Rescue car (Bunch of teens tried to turn it into a rat rod). They took a sandblaster to it trying to "Create Patina" so there are MASS chips and scratches to repair. I have been using my 5" DA sander with 120 grit Durapro Sandpaper and it takes FOREVER to sand out a body part and I use up a piece of sandpaper every 3 or so minutes. Am I using bad equipment or do I just fail at sanding?
A lot of things can contribute to slow sanding/constant gumming of sandpaper. Anything from quality of materials, down to the type and quality of paint you are trying to remove, etc. Without seeing this first hand, all I can recommend is to watch videos of others sanding panels and see what they are doing that you are not. If it is not a technique issue, then I'd look further into the type of paint being removed, my supplies, etc. Good luck with the rescue !
If you had 'crows feet' and cracked paint, but the factory primer layer seemed to be in tact still (i.e. you cannot see any visible rusting, just light grey primer where paint is chipping), would you still recommend sanding down to the metal? or would you stop once the paint/ primer seemed nicely bonded? My car has been sitting out in the sun for about 30 years and the paint is looking a bit sad.
What if after all the sanding you still see pinholes of rust that you can’t sand off. How would you treat/prep the metal to prevent rust from developing in the future? Does epoxy encapsulate the rust if there is any tiny rust holes on top of the roof?
I like using a paint stripper wheel or an 80 grit flap Disc too besides a wire wheel... They will cut down even faster, then finish off with the 80 grit and 100 grit flat sander for a Final pass
Why do you need a sealer over epoxy? I thought the sealer was to get uniform color? Learning a lot from your videos. If you could do a video on protective gear and setting up a compressor system for painting that would be great
Always amazing to watch! We haven’t seen you do a complete Big 4x4 truck would love to see how you would go about that. Specially a change of color of the car. Would you take the bed off?
Awesome episode, thank you! How risky is it to drive the vehicle like that before the base and clear are on and it gets rained on or sun exposure? Would you have to sand it all back off or scuff and shoot another coat of primer before base and clear?
Rain shouldn't be too much of an issue as epoxy primer isn't porous like a normal primer-surfacer, the main worry would be UV exposure as there isn't any clear It'll start to break down the primer and cause adhesion problems further down the road. If you have to drive it around try to keep it undercovers much as possible and have it painted within a few months. Although best best is ultimately just to do it all in the same day.
Great video, been following your work for a while now. I do have a question, I have to do this to my suburban and as a DIYer, living in Florida, how do you suggest I do this, considering the humidity and flash rust as I will be doing this at home. Thank you again for the great content! All the best to you!
Would you recommend a rust converter as well after sanding, to chemically change any rust not visible to the eye? I feel this would best protect the metal going forward. Amy recommendations on paintable rust converters from your experience?
Nice work but go to Eastwood and get sanding tool which cleans the sands the metal I think it is called SRT sanding and work will become much easier.that's a kool tool
Is there an all in one epoxy and high build primer that I could use on bare metal then spray a single stage paint over top of it? I already have single stage paint BUT it need body work and taking down to metal as it is rusting just like this Tahoe you just did. Thanks!
Question: is it okay to use Spray Max 2K High Gloss over Duplicolor paint? Also, can clear coat go on the next day? I have to paint outside and would only have the early morning before it gets hot. Thanks!
I mean ok, the outer flat shell cleaning from rust is easy but how about inside the car, inside pillars, doors, rails and hard to reach areas? How is the scrubbing done in such areas?
Excellent Video. I am buying the epoxy through your link but I have a question. I have an old Chevy on bare metal that I scuffed with 80 Grit. It still needs body work I just want to seal it. Do you still recommend I use reducer ? or straight epoxy with no reducer? Thanks for the awesome video, It is the best I have seen.
Thanks again for another great video. A tech support guy who used to work for Eastwood told me to put the filler over epoxy. I wasn't sure about what grit to use. Thank you for explaining. I also like watching you paint so I can better see how much paint goes on each coat. I always wonder if I'm to thick or to thin.
Nice video, I'm just looking on those vehicles around and all the dust which is covering them after your sanding... There would be nice to just cover them with a foil before starting the job.
Removing rust, although it can be a real challenge at times, is only half the job. The rest is about treating the derusted metal so that rust doesn't return. Ask me how I know. 😁
Watching for the high roof. looks like you could have stood on something a little higher. you did about 12 ich overlap as well, was that needed or just the way you do it?
As a painter i can say he is right about everything he said. The only thing that i would suggest is to do one coat of epoxy and then a second coat of regular (urethane) primer. This eliminates the hassle of sanding epoxy which as we know is very gummy to sand. Most epoxy primers have a darker color wich is good because it serves as a guide so you don't sand off too much material when preping for paint.
You are exactly right. Epoxies are by nature gummy and hard to sand but they have better adhesion properties than urethane primers. There are some "hybrid" epoxies that are easier to sand, but generally speaking, putting a urethane primer over the epoxy is an excellent recommendation.
One coat of epoxy, flash time, and second coat of 2kprimer?
@@lyetorres3681 Depending on temperature, 15-30 minute flash then the urethane primer. You have a relatively long window over the epoxy because they take a long time to cure.
I have a question if I lay my epoxy do I wait 30 to 45 then shoot urethane or do I have to wait 24 hours before shooting urethane
@@Tiktok_nostalgic_Gaming You can apply the urethane any time after 15 minutes of the application of the epoxy,
I switched to the Eagle sandpaper because of you. Best sandpaper I have ever used. Thanks again.
Hey Brian, let's not forget I sent you to the first day of school with a black eye back in the 90's. lol Was just looking for a rust repair vid for this truck I picked up at auction and here you are. Hope all is well.
David? Really? My fifth grade year of school. I got made fun of the whole year for my black eye !
Great informative video. I spent my afternoon 80 grit sanding my roof to remove crows feet cracking from an accident repair. Came out great and was able to repair some rust starting along the top of the windshield. Ready for a 180 sand and epoxy now!
Accidental repair?
Love Eastwood stuff. One day I will get the P500 and CC500. Been using the LT100 (had a small compressor), upgraded the compressor, now gotta wait for a sale!
Stay with the lt100 just buy 1 for base and 1 for clear 1 for primer and it will b better
I've been absolutely loving your videos. They're honestly some of the most informative videos on the subject of automotive painting I've found. Almost has a "this old house" quality feeling. Have you used air powered random orbital sanders before? I've never used a direct radial sander for stripping before; I'm curious how they compare.
Thanks for the comment! We use air da for sanding but they aren’t as aggressive to remove a lot of old paint
@@PaintSociety Do you have any insight on a remedy for fading topcoat paint on an 86 Mazda RX7?
I just did my entirely rusted out roof over 2 summers on my toyota, I was glad to see you left some of that super deep black pitting behind. I spent a LOT of hard work trying to remove that and c ould not, I just epoxied over it. I guess perhaps i'll be okay! Roofs are a SUPER PAIN! MAN all those other cars in the shop are COMPLETELY caked in dust!
@@PaintSociety It was based on my roof experience, I had a severe dust issue. I was hoping to see a better way to handle the dust.
I need to do this to my suburban and was happy that I came across this video. I I really have a much better idea of how to seal the roof now.
I work on old cars, and that car didn't have any serious rust! One I'm doing now, actually had surface rust so bad, when I removed it (first shot) with a wire wheel, there were spots with holes all the way through.
Where should I buy my respirator?? Can I sand it outdoors?? Budget, but need my lungs!
Thanks Brian, I learn every time I watch your content ..thanks from the United Kingdom.
Not just showing a finished job love it from the start to the finish big up bro 👍👍👍
Ty!
Excellent video and great channel, I teach at the largest school for collision/refinishing in Oklahoma and use your videos frequently in class for some variety, because I agree with most all of what you do or show on the channel! Great job Brian!
Thank you so much for sharing my channel with your students!
Brian, I think we need to get you up to New England, THEN discuss Rust!! This truck is a "PUFF" ! Great Video, as always! Envy your Temps!
Great video and I have done this. My problem is the fine airborne dust that covers everything in my garage much like it covered the vehicles around you. After my last project I have fine paint dust in areas that I will never be able to totally get rid of. I’ve decided I need to build a sanding “tent” with homemade filtration system. I will always try do this outside as weather permits. Everyone needs know about the potential dust issue.
absolutely, and a good point.
@@looper451 that doesn't help with filler
Sanding my 95 c1500 roof right now came back to this video for some tips👍
The new paint strippers are junk. I’ve been using a strip disk. It’s like a scuff pad but very corse. Works great but man it gets dust everywhere. You’ve got some great content on your video. Thanks for sharing.
They took out the Methylene Chloride which was the key ingredient in stripping paint. I haven't found anything that is as effective as the old paint strippers.
Once sanded to bare metal you can also use rust coverter/ metal prep , wipe on and wash it off immediately then you’re ready to the epoxy primer
If you do body filler on bare metal, rust will creep under the paint then blow thru at weakest line. First seal up with epoxy then scuff n mud it the way you do. You are a real painter man greetings from overseas/ istanbul
Funny I’m on rust duty for a van and this is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the video
Always learning something from you, Brian! Also, thanks for putting in the links for the products you use!
Yea. Hopefully it helps others !
That's a nice work, Brian. Really good base for later work.
As a painter I do sand paint but for stripping the paint stripping pads work far faster I can strip a car hood in less than an hour
with no chemicals.
Hey man, not sure if you will see this comment but you have a recent-ish comment. The hood of my roof has the colour totally faded but it also has star like scratches all over as well. What grit sand paper do you recommend for that? Then I have some peeling paint (looks like clear coat with some base coat) on the bumper. Which grit would you recommend for that? Then the areas where the paint is still in good condition, which grit sandpaper should I use? Thank you very much for your time.
I do wish you showed the process getting to that point on the roof. Which things are important to take off and what things you decided to keep and why. Otherwise however this whole series is excellent. I just came back looking for this video as Im literally going through this process, even down to the two tone.
Love the channel, very informative, keep up the paint work. Shout out from KaapStaad
Thanks so much for this video. I'm just starting to work on my truck and this came a great time. Planning to do metal repair/replacement and then sand and prime and then do remaining body work. Since it's cold up here in the northeast I don't think I can get my garage/shop to stay above 60 degrees for very long so I don't think I can spray.
Bro I watch all ur videos I'm coming close to starting my 88 turbo 2 rx7 after that my 93 lx foxbody and My lexus sc400 which is black and that's the hardest gonna get ready to buy my guns and supplies u hit this detail for detail I can't wait bless u u've been great keep these video coming 👍☝️
Excellent work as always 😁
So funny, I am watching this video while I am waiting for that exact same epoxy (1:1) to flash on my '68 Triumph Spitfire ... one coat before I put on the ... Eastwood urethane primer (4:1:1) in my garage / DYI paintbooth
wire brushes on a variable speed angle grinder(Dewalt DWE43240INOX) on slow speed. Hit any deep pits with minor rust with acid based metal cleaner. Never had issues. Wire brushes gets at most contours, that disks can't always get at, especially bad pits. Just finished major rust repairs on the inside wheel wells using wire brushes. I have a vacuum sand blaster and find the slow speed wire brush is cleaner, and faster. I have an Eastwood Contour tool I waiting to use once it shows up.
I have the contour but it takes a bit too long but leaves the metal nice
That's a great tip! Thank you, what wire brushes do you use?
I have a 8" RSJ outside - Irish weather, it rains a lot here, everything rusts - one side is treated with my rust killer, the other side isn't. It's been sat out there for 2, maybe 3 years now - it isn't painted, no grinding was done, it just got 1 coat on 1 side of my mix, with zero prep. The treated side looks exactly how it looked when first treated - jet black, no rust, no bubbling. Identical to how it looked before it got chucked out into the weather. The untreated side is a rusted mess that looks like the hull of a shipwreck.
Whenever a customer comes in asks what can we do for them & their rust I just show them the RSJ. They look at the 2 sides & the "sales" phase is over. I have the best rust-killer treatment going - nothing you can buy off a shelf comes even close. Most "bought" stuff actually makes it worse, long term - our stuff doesn't - it just kills rust. I invite customers to poke, scrape, bang, hit - do what they like to our finish - loads have given it a hammering - it self-heals so what they do doesn't matter. I'm fixing rust since I was 15 - when I welded on my first old car. I only now have a solution for rust that works long term - 35 years of learning. Making it sprayable from a schutz gun changed the rust-game here - we can now treat box-sections/cavities - it was originally only brush-apply.
Reminds me of doing the Ford P/u warranty strip in the early 90’s
Ah yes, we did hundreds of them.
Thank you for making this presentation. Would you please comment on why you prefer sandpaper for removing the old paint to those purple strip disks?
looking how it sprays is like asmr for the eyes :)
Great video man. Excited to the rest of this build!
you guys make it look so easy! great work! , how much does a job like this run up to be?
and the best method to prevent the coming of rust is grease , you should put grease everywhere. grease is the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside the body - hidden erea - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. Rust almost always comes from the inside and welds. Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
I really learn a lot from watching your vids thank you for taking the time and effort to show people how to do it themselves...👍👀
I love watching your videos Brian, very relaxing to watch all the great transformations on the channel. I have an older truck I would love to see on your channel being renovated. Send me some contact information so I can send you some pictures and see if my truck comes to see Uncle brian😂.
Just wanted to say first, thank you for all the knowledge!! I appreciate you and the content.
Do you have a video directed towards minor fender rust repaint and hood rock chips repairs? Keep crushing it!
Can you make sure (in an upcoming vid) to give good pointers for methods to clean up and de-rust the inside area of the doors where the skin wraps to the door frame? This seems to be a bad spot on these and many others!
This what I been waiting on since I’m working on my 97 Yukon
I’ve been looking for a video like this for a long time. I have a 1992 Nissan D21 I’m working on and want to do as much as I can.
Yes and you can diy!
Great video, but wish you would have talked more about the rust as that is what the title is about. I guess you are saying , remove as much as you can by sanding, then the epoxy application should convert or seal the rust?
Love the say n don't over think it it's jus paint I have mentality now I use it in my every day life like my job in hvac keep them videos coming I really learn alot thanks again
Watching your video I am absolutely amazed at how fast you cut the paint off with your sanders. I am working on a Rescue car (Bunch of teens tried to turn it into a rat rod). They took a sandblaster to it trying to "Create Patina" so there are MASS chips and scratches to repair. I have been using my 5" DA sander with 120 grit Durapro Sandpaper and it takes FOREVER to sand out a body part and I use up a piece of sandpaper every 3 or so minutes. Am I using bad equipment or do I just fail at sanding?
A lot of things can contribute to slow sanding/constant gumming of sandpaper. Anything from quality of materials, down to the type and quality of paint you are trying to remove, etc. Without seeing this first hand, all I can recommend is to watch videos of others sanding panels and see what they are doing that you are not. If it is not a technique issue, then I'd look further into the type of paint being removed, my supplies, etc. Good luck with the rescue !
use 80 grit
If you had 'crows feet' and cracked paint, but the factory primer layer seemed to be in tact still (i.e. you cannot see any visible rusting, just light grey primer where paint is chipping), would you still recommend sanding down to the metal? or would you stop once the paint/ primer seemed nicely bonded?
My car has been sitting out in the sun for about 30 years and the paint is looking a bit sad.
What if after all the sanding you still see pinholes of rust that you can’t sand off. How would you treat/prep the metal to prevent rust from developing in the future? Does epoxy encapsulate the rust if there is any tiny rust holes on top of the roof?
I like using a paint stripper wheel or an 80 grit flap Disc too besides a wire wheel... They will cut down even faster, then finish off with the 80 grit and 100 grit flat sander for a Final pass
Why do you need a sealer over epoxy? I thought the sealer was to get uniform color? Learning a lot from your videos. If you could do a video on protective gear and setting up a compressor system for painting that would be great
Always amazing to watch! We haven’t seen you do a complete Big 4x4 truck would love to see how you would go about that. Specially a change of color of the car. Would you take the bed off?
That’s always the best way. Remove as much as possible !
I personlay git that dewalt sandwr and i can say it works really well it nocks down bondo rust deep scratches so fast and easy
Ive learned so much from you....i watch all your videos its very helpful and educational thank you
The purple polycarbonate strip disc on an angle grinder work great.
This music got me thinking I’m back in the 80’s-90’s!!
Loving this project, keep the vids coming. Those reucks are bullet proof.
It’s a great platform
Great video, cheers from London England 👍🏴😎
Awesome episode, thank you! How risky is it to drive the vehicle like that before the base and clear are on and it gets rained on or sun exposure? Would you have to sand it all back off or scuff and shoot another coat of primer before base and clear?
Rain shouldn't be too much of an issue as epoxy primer isn't porous like a normal primer-surfacer, the main worry would be UV exposure as there isn't any clear It'll start to break down the primer and cause adhesion problems further down the road. If you have to drive it around try to keep it undercovers much as possible and have it painted within a few months. Although best best is ultimately just to do it all in the same day.
Be alright in primer for a week or so don't worry about it!
Would a chemical stripper be easier than sanding?
You answered my question at the very end of your video.
Great video thanks🤠👍
Great video, been following your work for a while now. I do have a question, I have to do this to my suburban and as a DIYer, living in Florida, how do you suggest I do this, considering the humidity and flash rust as I will be doing this at home. Thank you again for the great content! All the best to you!
Excelent video!
Could you show us using the Ppg SX579 over a pitted fender process , thanks
This is making me want to get back into painting:)
I wonder which one of those other guys made the suggestion to just prime it 😂😂
My man god bless you!!!!!as for the knowledge to pass forward.
Would you recommend a rust converter as well after sanding, to chemically change any rust not visible to the eye? I feel this would best protect the metal going forward. Amy recommendations on paintable rust converters from your experience?
Great video! Looks like the Eastwood gun sprayed really well. May have to test one out.
I always feel like I am being sold something when I watch these videos.
I am suggesting the best tools. If you don’t like the videos you don’t have to watch
Yes. I closed the window
Nice work but go to Eastwood and get sanding tool which cleans the sands the metal I think it is called SRT sanding and work will become much easier.that's a kool tool
just an FYI the loud music at the start is hard on ears and laptop speakers as we set it up for a voice and the music is a lot louder we find.
Can't wait for the next episode thank you brian
Really enjoy your videos, learn alot!
Great video, as always!
Is there an all in one epoxy and high build primer that I could use on bare metal then spray a single stage paint over top of it? I already have single stage paint BUT it need body work and taking down to metal as it is rusting just like this Tahoe you just did. Thanks!
Question: is it okay to use Spray Max 2K High Gloss over Duplicolor paint? Also, can clear coat go on the next day? I have to paint outside and would only have the early morning before it gets hot. Thanks!
Do you have a video about how to deal with rust pited metal, like bb sized dimples? This is great stuff.
I found if you own a da sander with a velcro pad, yiu can stick a scotchbrite pad on it and get rid of the surface rust really fast and easily.
I mean ok, the outer flat shell cleaning from rust is easy but how about inside the car, inside pillars, doors, rails and hard to reach areas? How is the scrubbing done in such areas?
Excellent work!! 👍🏻
Привет.... А не проще ли использовать смычку старой краски?. это уменьшает время и материалы.
Great job, looks like it went well.
Excellent Video. I am buying the epoxy through your link but I have a question. I have an old Chevy on bare metal that I scuffed with 80 Grit. It still needs body work I just want to seal it. Do you still recommend I use reducer ? or straight epoxy with no reducer? Thanks for the awesome video, It is the best I have seen.
Great vid guys, question - what do you use to seal the epoxy primer? can you not just basecoat then clear after epoxy?
Thanks again for another great video. A tech support guy who used to work for Eastwood told me to put the filler over epoxy. I wasn't sure about what grit to use. Thank you for explaining. I also like watching you paint so I can better see how much paint goes on each coat. I always wonder if I'm to thick or to thin.
Glad the subtitles helped!
Nice video, I'm just looking on those vehicles around and all the dust which is covering them after your sanding... There would be nice to just cover them with a foil before starting the job.
We blew everything out afterwards. Thanks for your concern
3M Clean and Strip disks would have cut the paint stripping time in half. They the bomb !
At what pressure did you spray your epoxy?
Thanks for sharing the tips & info.
That would be a good outside job!
Removing rust, although it can be a real challenge at times, is only half the job. The rest is about treating the derusted metal so that rust doesn't return. Ask me how I know. 😁
Once you get a car to bare metal. Do you have to fine sand the bare metal? Or are you ready for primer?
What if when washing my car the paint is coming off in chunks. Now my car looks like a leopard. What do I do? Thank you man love your content
What about the Eastwood Contour Sander? have you ever tied that? Thanks. I always learn so much from you.
How do you clean up the guns after spraying? Do you have to jump on it quick or what? Mineral Spirits or something else to clean up the epoxy primer?
Clean within 10 min of final spray with lacquer thinner
Great video, subscribed!
Good informational video. Could you just have Dustless Blasted that roof of the vehicle or is that cost prohibitive?
Very good work keep it up bro
the most informative
Nice job, great channel 👍
Great video, I just had a 98 Yukon painted that looked similar. Hope I don't have to go back to this..... 😯🤯
Also what do you anticipate for the holes from roof rack? As will use then or cut and wield them close
We will put the rack back on
That small DeWalt sander is that like a DA sander
Watching for the high roof. looks like you could have stood on something a little higher. you did about 12 ich overlap as well, was that needed or just the way you do it?