SYMPTOMS OF A BAD IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- In this video, you will learn 4 symptoms of a bad idle air control valve. Watching this video will help you diagnose to see if it is time to replace your idle air control valve. You will also learn how an idle air control valve works. This video also teaches you where the idle air control valve is located. You might be experiencing a check engine light, idle too high or too low, engine stall during idle, and a crank but no start. Some of the engine codes you might retrieve are P0505, P0506, P0507, P0508, P0509.
Thank you for watching!
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And yet 99% of people who change their air control valve never do it properly. You must you must disconnect the battery before replacing the air control valve this is so that it will relearn the new control valve when you install and reconnect the battery you must allow the vehicle to idle for at least 10 minutes without touching the gas or disrupting anything and then do another 5 minutes with your foot on the brake and then another 5 minutes with your lights on air conditioning on rear defroster on so that it creates a load and this will help the ECU learn all those different variables to give you a perfect idle when you are done. Hope this helped because nobody on UA-cam is showing this because they're all defective
Thank you! I didn’t know this step, about to replace mine on a 98 and want to make sure it’s done properly
Thank you for the information Will.
Thanks for the heads up i was about to change mine
@@nunya3812 no problem you're welcome
@@Vincenocks You're welcome
how much more straight to the point and clear can you get? great content. I hope this kid gets more subs. I hate people that waste time. respect to him.
He is copying another channel which should get the credit. This guy is a fraud
This is Chris fix been on YT for a long time using a different name .
Excellent overview of the IAC with good information. Thank you!
Thanks! My car is doing just that. No codes, but just cleaned the throttle body and it was very dirty. 147,000 miles dirty. New replacement costs under $50!
Great video and as a mechanic I can say the info is spot on.
I agree
Urg I just replaced mine 8 months ago and I'm having these problems again. Im glad I watched this video. Im Off to the auto parts store for a new one!! Lol
Great info and presentation.
Nice and straight. Thank you.
Great Video! I like your editing style, very clear and concise.
I appreciate you! Thanks!
@@easyautofix hey help me with this I have a dodge
Van 1998 I’ve replace 4 idle air control valves and each one was faulty why do they keep breaking? What is causing these valves to go bad I’m so lost. Thank you
Subscribed. Thanks for making and sharing this video and more
I found what the idle control valve is from my truck not being able to stop hard without the rev control launching me forward while on the brakes
FINALLY....I've had the "howling" sound for 'bout 8 months on a 1997 4x4 Ranger 4ltr v6. IAC....hmmm....who would've thought. I'll try to replace it myself or go to the local small garage mechanic (I support local businesses). Yup...truck is 26yrs old with 157k on it. Always starts...and has never left me stranded. I even drove to California from central FL last year at the height of gas prices ! I need a interior dome light cover and a fan speed modulator. And I can't find the very slow leak on the ac.
Well explained ✔️🇯🇲😎
That was very good.
My uncle's Tuscon on a cold start will fire right up but then the idle is really low like below 600 rpm for about a second or 2 as it appears to want to stall out, then ramps up to 1400 rpm during its cold start process then slowly drops to 800 rpm as it warms up.
It has been happening to my car. Cold start crank, runs, then immediately shuts off. Have to start, give it gas to about 2k rpm for a few seconds and sometimes stalls again. Will order the oem part. '00 4Runner.
Thank you ❤
A great day... it's 15 degrees and windy today. I've had my Jeep towed home twice from work. Going into the second month, paying for a ride to work everyday.
This part came to 64 dollars. It's an easy install,. uncertain about driving it being stranded again.
So I'm being Cautious. See how it goes after new valve is in.
great vid. how to use the WD cleaner?
Got the p0505 code dodge 1999. I sprayed it but I am gonna take it off again.
i like the way he talks lol so Chill 😂
so would a stuck closed one cause fouled plugs and richness? due to lack of air? my sc300 has no CEL or codes, changed the maf and about everything else related to richness.
Nice video sir.. my car have a code p2004 you know what is of problem ? Any help
Great content
Very nice thank you!
2019 F150 V8 same, not really rough idle but sporadic rev up and down by 50-100 rpm, and occasional stall. Highway miles only 25k. Warranty. Ford diagnosis ( going in today) 3 of 8 lower bank fuel injectors drip. All 8 upper injectors perfect. Lower bank injectors have 1000 psi blasting through while uppers only have 60.
Ford said this will fix the issue.
Keep the videos coming,, Great editing,,, Have a great day, I just subscribed, And liked,,,,,
After market MSD coil pack harness (MSD part# 88867) will also behave erratic like a IAC going bad as well.
Good video, thanks
And thank you!
Great info but how do you clean it???
Nice
Lately my car stalls when the clutch is engaged … especially when driving … my idle when stationary is actually good 800ish rpm’s smoothly
Can you please show how to use the WD40 cleaner? I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu that I have put in 9 parts into. I'm praying this will help. Reduced Eng Pwr/Traction light/ESC off...
I have a question I have a 2005 dodge Durango same time lost power when first take off or small hill or even a small rock it go over? Same day run fine I’m charging spark plugs and crank shaft and cam sensor and fuel pump .still the same
Can blown ic inside the ecm cause your engine to stutter and stall when in idle ...alse no reading on tachometer
K so as a seasoned mechanic... You do not need to take the battery cables off unless it's a foreign vehicle like the one used in the video. My Ford Crown Vic also has an IAC valve that sounds like a boat horn. It's the plastic tube making that noise so I changed it over to metal and solved all my problems. Same with my air intake. I changed it over to a metal less restriction pipe and got 10hp out of it plus another 10 from muffler delete.
Would this make the engine louder at idle I have the code I'll do it soon... When I put it in drive it quiets a little bit but engine is definitely noisy at idle
Can a faulty IAC also cause your RPMs to suddenly kick up while sitting in idle, such as while waiting at a red light?
Yes. Mine does the same thing, it even drops to a point where it feels like it might stall
Is it a Toyota lol? We all have this problem
@@Pittsburgh-412 no, it's a 2007 Jerp liberty.
@@Pittsburgh-412 Yes-ish; Lexus.
@@JasonDziukACE I've been looking into this issue and it's very common. But I can't find the answer to fixing it
Does it feel worse when it’s cold and then ok once the engine heats up?
I have issue with my 2010 liberty. In the morning before engine gets hot enough engine stall at stop can restart and nothing happen after 5min I checked code nothing came up. Is this can be this issue?
My car only stays running with the intake cover off if I replace the intake cover my car die. Does this have something to do with it?
Can a bad IAC in 92 Honda Accord cause it to stall/die/almost die while driving?
Might as well do map too
P601b code help car vibrate like crazy but fine when driving
Would be impressed if u have an answer to this one. Tata Indica SLi 2008 1400 Petrol. After a Clutch replacement that have nothing to do with the fuel injection system, I have the Following symptoms:
Engine start first time but idle to High then after 10seconds go down to normal. When driving the engine runs perfect until you stop. The idle surge three times between 1000 and 2000 rpm then a last time to 3000, sometimes 3500 rpm then slowly goes down to normal and stay there. I I ref it up again it comes down to normal, but a little slow but not surging. But just drive 10 meters and same thing happens. I replace the Idle sensor with a new one, making it ever worse
check the pistons, and run high octane gas for a fill up and that should clean most of the junk in there. if you have an IAC then take it off, tape the hole, clean it with carborator spray or something similar while keeping the motor up as to not damage it then just spray until all the carbon build up it gone, should hopefully fix that
This is exactly what's going on with my 18 mustang GT I think it's closed or closed because when I get to a stoplight it idles real low and it stalls I have to restart the car in either put it in part or neutral or keep tapping the gas for it to not cut off
Do you have an update? I’m having the same issue just not as severe. I also have the same car lol.
Can it cause car to not die on when cold start? But work when sun is hot?
I have a code p2004 on 2006 ford fusion SEL you know what's of problem there sir
My trucks engine light came on and started to rev rpms while I was idle. The engine light has since turned off but it sounds like I have a open IAC
My car have this problem my rmps is almost below 600 do this mean then my idle air control valve is clogged.
We replaced it on a 2014 Malibu today and its still dieing, an surging while driving?
My car is lopey. Course after an EGR valve replacement but no codes.
So my truck will run great then runs rough then hisses and stalls is it my iac?
I hate idle air control valves. Half the ones bought are junk and they go very fast unless you spend $80 at autozone for one. And alot of sellers online sell the wrong one. When I speed up ot shouldnt be so hard for the rpms to go higher . It takes buying tons of them from different sellers to find the exact right one. Then they only last a year.. .. fu king pontiac 💀
i have been told my issue could be electronic throttle body on my 2008 a3.2.0 tdi , i have no engine light or codes, my symptoms are when the engines up to temprature it will stall unless i keep my foot on the gas pedal , yet when the engines cold it starts fine and doesnt stall. does anyone think this could be my issue ,
Wat if truck turns on but thens turn off even if give gas?
My truck starts up fine and idles fine but when I get going down the road and the more stops I make the higher the idle gets. I can usually remedy this by turning the truck off and restarting it but it's a vicious cycle. Also I think it is causing some backfire inside the air breather. I have a 90 Chevy Silverado 4.6L V6
Did u figure out what was causing it?
Sounds like a vacuum leak possibly the intake manifold gasket. I had this problem and burned two valves.
@@allanbrogdon9372 I wish I could check to see if that's the problem but unfortunately it got stolen.
@@joetroutt7425 my Yukon was stolen and the police wouldn't even make a report. I feel your pain !
1996 Chevy Silverado when I run over 65 mph truck start jerking
Thanks for the video. My idle is perfect after closed loop at 725. Open loop is 1500 then 3 minutes later goes to 1100 then after 3 minutes goes to 700. Is this still a symptom of iacv? 99gs300.
Ps, only evap codes
Yes my mustang did that before
Great Video! I have a 2016 Kia Optima and it's stalling when I turn it on. It doesn't do it at a cold start only when I drive more than 30 min and park it and it sits for a few min and I go to turn it back on and it turns over and fires for a second or 2 then stalls out and dies. I'm assuming it's the Air Control Valve or computer. Or Throttle body. It's not the battery for sure so I'm hoping it's one of these 2 and it just needs to be cleaned or reset or something.
Having the same issues here, have you found a fix for that ?
any news?
No it still does it on and off. Only when I drive it more than 30 min and it gets good and hot. Not sure what the cause or fix is.
I’m having this same issue with my Jetta. Any luck?
@@infiniteblaz3416 mine had an issue with the multiair (valve actuators) which caused this. Might be worth looking into something similar with your car.
My idle goes back to normal really slow and I have no engine brake.. After like 5 seconds I stopped, it slowly drops from over 1000 rpm back to around 800 rpm. Te valve itself is closing the air duct slowly. I 've checked it the valve unmounted... What can cause that? It Fiat A156.246 engine . 999cc weber SPI . Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mine got stuck in between and it was idle up and down on its own. But it drove fine while moving.
My 2015 Subaru STI does the same thing. Video me mods I did to it was a k&n insert air filter p it has about 56,000 miles on the motor. And I still have the original brakes on the vehicle if you can believe it 👍🤠
@@user-vl2zh6bj6x I actually found out what the main issue was. Was in fact not the IAC. It’s the positive crankcase ventilation pvc tube. I put a new iac on and still heard a loud vacuum leak. Further inspection and the connector right under the accelerator cable bracket is worn and allowing air
good video brother. I have a 2016 chrysler 300. If i don't use it for a few hours or overnight, and try to star the car, it will crank but wont start. But if i open the key for 3 seconds before starting, it will start instantly. Seema like the feeding of gas to the engine is delayed. Do you know what could it be?
To me that could mean a failing fuel pump.
Could be an injector fuel sensor
Would a bad IAC valve have anything to do with my 2001 crv misfiring only after being driven for a while?
I had that problem once. My valves were out of adjustment
@@danhatstat6890 yeah there were a few parts I replaced over the last several months. Was running good for 3 months after putting a new distributor in it. But the problem resurfaced almost 2 weeks ago. So I'm just taking it to a mechanic in a couple weeks.
@@josephhobbs278 have them do a compression test on the cylinders. Thats how i found out mine was messed up. Cheap solution
Would this also be a reason of why it shuts off when I’m parked or turning into a parking space and slow down at a stop sign/red light and I turn the wheel and it idles lower than when the wheel is just straight and not turned? It would sound like it wants to shut off when I turn the wheel a bit and sometimes when I break. (On a 1988 chevy c1500)
Mine does something similar, I drive a 90 gmc safari and I wanna ask did you fix it?
If so? Did it make a difference?
I have a 2014 Ford Focus with an annoying intermittent problem. It drops revs to 200 then bounces back up to 1000 on start up engine warm/cold and when driving “ revs drop to around 200 and slows down” have had the aux and timing belt changed already. Any help would be appreciated
did you ever figure out the problem? having the same issue with my 2013 FF se
@@marilyn6748same with my 2011!
so i have a problem i think, when i first got my car it would idle at 1800-2000rpms in the mornings when i would start it no matter the weather, i recently changed out my throttle and now when i start my car it idles at 800rpms. is that good or bad
I have a 90 accord in great condition but recently having idling issues car fluctuates rpm rev high then low but seems to clear up after it warms up good and as soon as I put it in gear it idles perfectly... Anyone have this issue before or know what could cause this because I'm out of ideas but I'm only a backyard mechanic and would appreciate some suggestions ...
Try giving your IAC probe a clean first and see what condition its in. They can get a lot of carbon build up inside the throttle body.
Will that cause the car to want to stall at a stop sign, but otherwise runs fine down the road?
Crank position sensor would be more likely to go bad.
Check your battery terminals. Make sure there not loose or that there clear of corrosion.
Ford focus MK2, need to press the acceleration pedal to start the engine, otherwise it does start for a few seconds, and stops immediately. Could this valve be the reason?
Your starting issue might indeed be linked to a malfunctioning component affecting the idle, such as the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. However, it's essential to verify whether your vehicle is equipped with one. Many modern cars utilize an electronic throttle body to regulate idle speed instead of a traditional IAC valve. This system integrates more directly with the vehicle's onboard computer for precise control over air intake at idle. Here is a video that could help you out. ua-cam.com/video/10H-GBPCU2g/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier when AC is on I slightly drop RPM either in park or Idle. Would this help me out ?
A.c. Is load bearing. So when engaged the compressor actually causes the motor to work alittle harder. Causing the momentary fluctuation in rpm.
Is runner control valve and idle air control the same? 2009 mazda 6 I can’t find the IAC
No, they are different. You might not have an IAC. If you have an electronic throttle body the engine control module regulates the idle by opening the throttle plate a tad bit.
I have this problem
can a stuck open iac. cause a lean condition ?
Yes just had a 2003 TLS bad iac Lean code owner r&r O2 sensor iac controls air,02, sensor has a BAD reading try cleaning it gum out spray 👍🚦🚙
I've get the check engine light on and it's stalling while idling in cold weather. I _just_ spent $600 on it a week ago 😭😭😭
just had an swap bout a year ago and im having a low idle when just starting and a high idle when warmed. im hoping after replacing the iac it will help with this issue
Did it help you
I really thought it was my idle air control valve.
I have a vacuum leak I couldn't find. The idol was bouncing up and down, it was a rubber seal in between the brake master cylinder and the brake vacuum booster. When I press my brakes hard it idles fine, and when I take my foot off it bounces.
I have a 2002 honda crv with 220 000 miles on it ,did a complete service, oil change, spark plugs, coils ,air filter ,pcv valve and hose new motor mounts. No check engine light either. But as soon as the it warms up it idles low at about 600rpm car shakes really bad. But as soon as I give it gas shaking disappears .is it the idle air control valve?
Did you get answer??? Mine is same issue with Toyota
It could very well possibly be. I can only derive from testing March necessary
check your map sensor
1996 1500 Chevy Silverado when I drive over 65 mph truck start jerking
"Do ya got any w33d? It'd be a lot cooler if ya did."
Anyone else hear this and go straight to Dazed and Confused?
Would this throw a code up?
So I’m having an issue when the air conditioning is running, at a stop, traffic, stop light etc, it will surge up and down from 750-450. Ver noticeable. Could this be the issue? It’s also odd it only does it when ac is on.
Did you find the cause of this. I have the same problem in my Lexus unfortunately.
@@thunderthumbz3293 I changed the IAC to another used one from a different car and it fixed that particular issue.
With pressing the gas and turning the key it will work but for my car eventually it stops working and just doesn't start. Happened to me again last night tried for about 30mins no start. Usually it will start eventually but I got to wait battery will die out and then magically it starts
How abt idle air control is open?
Been having this issue in my v8 s10 it runs and drives great but I’m having to give it gas to get it started, and when it does start it runs at low idle ’ve replaced the IAC with a new one. Checked the fuel filter and air filter and no luck. Anyone know what it could be?
I would check the connection/condition of the mass airflow sensor, and also the condition/connection of the throttle position sensor. Also inspect for any tears on the boot of your air intake and any other vacuum hoses that may connect to it.
I got an 04 325i, when coming to a stop will dip under 500 and you can feel it, only for a second then bops back up, ac on idles around 650, ac off has to be 550 to 600. And at the hottest part of day, half second hesitation taking off from full stop. Testing ICV, ie, jiggling it makes the sound. I'm thinking it's this
This is my same issue. Did you replace it, and did it fix?
@Bait Royale No, it goes all day long doing it with no harm seemingly, I've replaced spark plugs, and ignition coils, if I replace the fuel injectors all 6 I'd probably be good, already replaced one leaker with a used one. I put 40k miles since it started up, I'm more worried about it then the car, also the little cover for the fuel lines in the fuel filter housing is missing from when I changed it. These cars can have multiple problems and keep chugging along like nothing
pro·nun·ci·a·tion , is still important... Even in the era of Ebonics.
Can that cause a misfire or a po300 ?
Its possible but not common. Here is a video to better understand P0300 causes. ua-cam.com/video/7qAaqmqavXA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
Bad idle air control valves "harsh my gig too hardcore, cruster."
Won’t any carb cleaner work?
Would this possibly be the issue if when downshifting my car sometimes does stop at 1,000rpms. It just keeps dropping till the car stalls out. I’m grasping at straws as to what it could be
This could be a reason but there are also other reasons. In this video, I go through some possibilities. ua-cam.com/video/10H-GBPCU2g/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
Dude sounds like ram ranch hahaha
Had to speed video to make his voice sound normal
Can i take the idle control valve completely out?
Yes you can, just switch your car on then take out the cable on the air control valve then switch of the car and turn it again then take for ride so computer will read new setup
NO
Would this cause a long start, and random stalling
Check ur coil pack!!! I thought it was fuel
@@BakingBayked all new spark plugs and coils, I got a secondary air pump from the junkyard and it stopped for a day, next day back with the symptoms, I ordered a new air pump, and the valve to be safe. Waiting on em to come in, it stalls after 3 plus hours of driving in 100 plus degree weather though, but for regular driving no issues, and always fires back up in less than a minute. I can only hope that's it.
@@BakingBayked thanks man
I have this code on my subaru can u help me, P1143, P0107, P1516, P1510. Sub forester 98. Plz one video
Sounds like a lot of potential issues with the throttle body. Cleaning the throttle body and inspecting or having a professional diagnose the sensors is probably a good start. I just cleaned my throttle body if you want to watch it on my channel.
Here are a few possible causes for the codes:
P1143 Oxygen sensor , P0107 MAP sensor, P1516 Throttle actuator control ( high risk), P1510 Throttle body communication issue?
NOTE: These codes could indicate a variety of other problems as well so don't be afraid to take it to a mechanic for professional diagnosis/repair.
Does this cause the car to over heat?
Nope
What is your idle is flucating up and down while stopped?
Hey did you figure out your problem ? Cause I'm having the same issue
@@kevinmichael5284 Strangely. No. Even had the scanner on it and no codes come up. Mechanic looked at all and can't figure it out either. I did notice that I have some oil on the wires of the connector going to the coil pack ( the 3rd from the left) Looks like maybe it leaked from near the oil cap. I am wondering if it's that.
I don't think oil leaking would have anything to do with that idle behavior . I just got done taking apart my throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. I also pulled off idle control valve and soaked it in white vinegar. It runs so much better.
@@kevinmichael5284 I was thinking because the wires are ignition coil wires. So the oil could be interrupting the voltage to the one spark plug. The throttle body has been cleaned. The Mass Air Flow sensor has been cleaned. On the Sentra the idle control valve is part of the throttle body. Since that's been cleaned I am thinking for mine it may not be the issue. Mine definitely seems electrical. It's a consistent dip of about 250 RPM and back to normal. Every 5 seconds.
@@risingoneagleswings1776so that worked for about 2 min for me. I did everything you did plus got new plugs sensors and still doing exactly how you describe your problem . I'm kinda lost . Let me know if you find your problem and what it was . Good luck
Who knows how to do an ECU reset on 05 Infiniti g35
My engine is not just going to 1krpm its accelerating at times to full rpm.
So the symptom for my car was idling, a sudden drop in the diet between relationships.... By pressing the throttle to open the butterfly, it gave no result either.... I think the IAC valve died anyway....