Wow. This is a very good video. My car (BMW) is exhibiting the very symptoms you describe. It runs fine going down the highway, but as soon as your press the clutch in, its RPMs drop and it stalls out. It also seems to occasionally idle at a very high or sometimes erratic RPM. It has been setting for a while in the garage. This will be the first thing I take a look at along with any air leaks. Thank you! EDIT: The problem was determined to be a large hole (several) in the rubber plenum / pipe leading up to the throttle body from the MAF. I assume the computer was getting bad info from the sensors causing erratic idle and stalling behavior. Once pipe was replace, and IAC cleaned - since I had it apart - it was able to run rather rough. After about 10 miles or so of driving the computer was able to gather correct readings from sensors and everything was fine. Apparently these pipes are terribly designed and known to rot away causing severe cracks.
Same issue here, runs perfectly fine on my '92 F-150 when on the highway, but if I'm idling in first, have increased load like AC, headlights, or turning (engaging the power steering) it will pretty consistently stall out. Did you try messing with the IAC valve, such as resetting it? If so, how were your results?
2006 dodge Durango 5.7 hemi v8. 115,000 got it 4,000 less. Stalling on low idle/ traffic lights, especially when making turns that doesn’t require giving gas ( or throttle) I can wrench a bit and have replaced, recently enough quite a bit of the exhaust system in general still bad ass truck. Cat delete Too many minor fixes replacing and cleaning to list but appreciate this video bc it’s helping me to narrow down before I get too crazy trying to get the air fuel ratio tuned. She was slightly neglected but still a beast. Thanks this helped tons. I would appreciate a response from anyone and I can elaborate further as I fix
Great Video! I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee and recently put new heads on due to bad head gasket, also new timing chain kit along with brand new OEM catalytic converters. When i was taking the Cruise cabe off the throttle body i broke the nub that the cable clipped to so i got a used throttle body and rebuilt mine. The issue i'm having is sporadic idling and when going down the road i have to mash the accelerator to get it going. Stops are worse trying to get going. I have replaced the IAC and that did nothing , The data on my scanner is saying the IAC has high input voltage. I was told with me rebuilding that throttle body it is probably out of spec, So i ordered a new throttle body with both new sensors IAC and TPS . I installed the New throttle body last night and its still the same running ruff and still have High voltage at IAC. Can anyone lead me too what might be causing this High voltage? I can't find anything besides replacing the IAC. Instructions with the NEW Throttle body say's the IAC needs Idle speed relearn and i cant find anything for my jeep how to do this. Also as last night im throwing a code of UO41, Witch i just watched your video on that before writing this book. Thanks for that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
You would need a scan tool that communicates with the vehicle computer, and run a idle relearn. Most mechanics should have an appropriate scan tool and the area where i am, they charge anywhere from half an hour to an hour of shop time to plug in their scan tool and do any relearns. Some might even do it for free, since its a procedure that should only last a couple minutes. Good luck!
I have a 1988 jeep Cherokee 6 cyl in line 4.0Lt 4x4 We changed the spark plugs , the wire, the charcoal canister, the router and cap the fuel injectors the idel speed control the 2 of the one next to the other we changed the one on the transmission that prevents it or gives a hard start. We changed oil filter ,new oil we changed gas filter and gas pump. We even tryed a next computer . . It starts but it would not rev up for nothing the cables are all hooked up we checked to make sure the gas is in the tub that is connected to the injectors great pressure. Help any idea
Have all the symptoms, but the engine code is a misfire p0300 code and a misfire code for all cylinders.. already checked all the usual culprits, the iac and egr are among the last to check besides possible vaccuum leak..
I'm having this problem with my car when Im at a full stop at a traffic light and just letting my car idle out my steering wheel will shake and the car its self would shake and jerk, and all of a sudden when I accelerate my steering wheel would stop shaking, and my car would jerk or feels like it is going to die out even burbles coming out from my muffler, but when I fully step in gas pedal the car would run normal when I accelerate fast.
Mine has started having lower idle, but when I put it in gear, it drops way down and wants to stall. (hyundai santa fe 2009 2.7) I'm hoping it's something easier to access like the pvc. I'm really not great with cars.
Good video! I have a 2015 Nissan rogue, runs great first 10 minutes or so , but vibration starts and is present at stops, and at idle. I Cleaned up throttle body, mass airflow sensor, new filter, new pvc , no cracks in any hoses, new engine mounts, new 02 sensor, pre cat, no codes, fuel cleaner in , fuel trims are good … …🤔.. any thoughts?
Here's the scoop. 2002 5.9l (gas) sat for 3 weeks. Now it won't start without starting fluid. Once started, it idles fine and throws no codes. If I slowly give it gas - it's fine. If I goose it - it chokes out. Btw, without starting fluid it cranks like a bear and when I let off the key it tries to start at the very end of the cycle. Can you tell me what you would look for right off the bat? I'm getting up in age and it's winter so the less time I'm dickin with it the better. Thanx in advance.
It needs to be diagnosed, but I would check the fuel pressure regulator, the check valve, or the component (it can vary) that stops the fuel from flowing back into the tank when the engine shuts down.
MY 2004 TOWN CAR,STARTED TIS RECENTLY,I HAD CHANGE THE IACV A FEW MONTHS AGO,FOR A NISE COMING FORM MY AIR BOX,VIBRATING,HIGH PITCHED NOISE,CHANGEIT,WENT AWAY,NOW THE FAST IDLE AT COLD START,NO LONGER HAPPENS,JUST VERY LOW IDE,I HAVE TO PEDAL TO KEEP RUNNING,AFTER WARMING UP,DOES BETTER,STILL A LITTLE MISS FEELING,BUT RUNS GOOD WHILE DRIVING,SHOULD I CHANGE THE IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE AGAIN? I DID BUY FROM E-BAY,IT WAS CHEAPER,WAY CHEAPER,THANKS,APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS, I GET NO CODES OR ENGINE LIGHT,CLEANED THE THOTTLR BODY AND THE MAF SENOR, NOT MUCH CHANGE AND STILL NO ATOUMATIC HIGHER IDLE AT COLD START.
Have all the symptoms you mentioned. I cleaned throttle body, replaced Tps, and IAC. Reset CPU and now my truck start up fine but won't want to drive or move completely
Are there any codes? Also, some vehicles have what's called a throttle relearn. If the throttle is cleaned or a sensor is replaced, the computer may need to learn the new variances. Often, the computer will relearn automatically, but sometimes there is a set procedure.
I would recheck all the wires and any hoses and be sure everything plugged in good. The throttle body may be good, and there may be another issue. With no codes, it will need to be diagnosed, and components will need to be tested to find the problem.
I have a creta 2017 which doesn't start unless I push the gas paddle. Rarely stalls 2-3 min after start and it's usually when stopped at traffic lights. The throttle was cleaned, changed sparks and air filter, still the issue remains (no error codes). It happens when the car is parked for like +8hours. What could be the issue?
2016 cryshler 200 2.4 once you have it in reverse engine stalls,replace motor mount.transmission mount same thing did tuneup spark plugs coils,pcv,clean throttle body
Hi, my name is Fran I have a 2008 Saturn Arua XR 3.6 with Idle problems changed the throttle body and checked for a vacuum leak checked some wiring still the same problem. What's next? Changed the throttle body because had a low-speed warning light.
Its the same issue with mates Toyota hilux. Prob mid 80's. Trayback . I pulled it off and cleaned it. Good for 2 days then back to over reving, about 2100. It is the idle sensor, electric that controls a magnet i think to turn the shaft inside. Ive minipulated the shaft and confirms its faulty. But only the magnet! End where it has a elec plug.
I’m having the idle problems bad but I’m having codes like p052c cold start and other codes like camshaft/crankshaft correlation sensor and timing codes, could the AIC or throttle body cause such things??
Hey bro. My car is 2006 honda civic coupe 1.8… does it have an IAC valve or its called purge solenoid valve??…coz i cleaned my throttle body using cr throttle body cleaner. After that the idle is too high and fluctuating and the engine light turns on. I reset it manually by gaking the negative wire on the battery. and by the way i scanned it and the code is po505 .. doni have to replace the purge valve that is attached to the throttle body???
The purge valve is for the EVAP system used for emissions, which is separate from the throttle body idle. If the purge valve is bad, it will usually give an EVAP code. With a P0505 code, there is still an issue with the throttle body. Usually, it is dirty and needs cleaning, or a component has failed, but it needs to be troubleshooted.
So i was getting shaking when idling so i cleaned my throttle body and put in a new aic valve and my problems started. Was the new one i put in faulty? I bought it at autozone. Should I go and demand another one?
What about the engine nice and hot and push on the pedal while in park an it idles high like 3 rpm’s then after 10 sec or so it starts to idle down to normal is that a sign of bad iac too ?? Code shows p0507
Thank you for making this video. I drove 30 miles with bad IAC. Ended up not hitting a single red light so I had my foot on the gas the whole way.
Bro I put 25k miles on mine with a bad one
Great video, thanks. How do I differentiate between malfunctioning Idle air contole valve and leaking air please?
Try feeding smoke in the Intake. While it is running. The vacuum lean should reveal itself w smoke if you have a vacuum leak
Wow. This is a very good video. My car (BMW) is exhibiting the very symptoms you describe. It runs fine going down the highway, but as soon as your press the clutch in, its RPMs drop and it stalls out. It also seems to occasionally idle at a very high or sometimes erratic RPM. It has been setting for a while in the garage. This will be the first thing I take a look at along with any air leaks. Thank you!
EDIT: The problem was determined to be a large hole (several) in the rubber plenum / pipe leading up to the throttle body from the MAF. I assume the computer was getting bad info from the sensors causing erratic idle and stalling behavior. Once pipe was replace, and IAC cleaned - since I had it apart - it was able to run rather rough. After about 10 miles or so of driving the computer was able to gather correct readings from sensors and everything was fine. Apparently these pipes are terribly designed and known to rot away causing severe cracks.
Same issue here, runs perfectly fine on my '92 F-150 when on the highway, but if I'm idling in first, have increased load like AC, headlights, or turning (engaging the power steering) it will pretty consistently stall out. Did you try messing with the IAC valve, such as resetting it? If so, how were your results?
@@jordanketterling4517 See edit.
2006 dodge Durango 5.7 hemi v8. 115,000 got it 4,000 less. Stalling on low idle/ traffic lights, especially when making turns that doesn’t require giving gas ( or throttle) I can wrench a bit and have replaced, recently enough quite a bit of the exhaust system in general still bad ass truck. Cat delete Too many minor fixes replacing and cleaning to list but appreciate this video bc it’s helping me to narrow down before I get too crazy trying to get the air fuel ratio tuned. She was slightly neglected but still a beast. Thanks this helped tons. I would appreciate a response from anyone and I can elaborate further as I fix
Hey was your oil pressure dropping at a idle as well??
Great Video! I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee and recently put new heads on due to bad head gasket, also new timing chain kit along with brand new OEM catalytic converters. When i was taking the Cruise cabe off the throttle body i broke the nub that the cable clipped to so i got a used throttle body and rebuilt mine. The issue i'm having is sporadic idling and when going down the road i have to mash the accelerator to get it going. Stops are worse trying to get going. I have replaced the IAC and that did nothing , The data on my scanner is saying the IAC has high input voltage. I was told with me rebuilding that throttle body it is probably out of spec, So i ordered a new throttle body with both new sensors IAC and TPS . I installed the New throttle body last night and its still the same running ruff and still have High voltage at IAC. Can anyone lead me too what might be causing this High voltage? I can't find anything besides replacing the IAC. Instructions with the NEW Throttle body say's the IAC needs Idle speed relearn and i cant find anything for my jeep how to do this. Also as last night im throwing a code of UO41, Witch i just watched your video on that before writing this book. Thanks for that as well. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
You would need a scan tool that communicates with the vehicle computer, and run a idle relearn. Most mechanics should have an appropriate scan tool and the area where i am, they charge anywhere from half an hour to an hour of shop time to plug in their scan tool and do any relearns. Some might even do it for free, since its a procedure that should only last a couple minutes. Good luck!
An excellent video!
Thanks a lot!
I have a 1988 jeep Cherokee 6 cyl in line 4.0Lt 4x4
We changed the spark plugs , the wire, the charcoal canister, the router and cap the fuel injectors the idel speed control the 2 of the one next to the other we changed the one on the transmission that prevents it or gives a hard start. We changed oil filter ,new oil we changed gas filter and gas pump. We even tryed a next computer . . It starts but it would not rev up for nothing the cables are all hooked up we checked to make sure the gas is in the tub that is connected to the injectors great pressure. Help any idea
Great video and explanations! Nice and direct
Have all the symptoms, but the engine code is a misfire p0300 code and a misfire code for all cylinders.. already checked all the usual culprits, the iac and egr are among the last to check besides possible vaccuum leak..
I had same code my issue was water in the gas tank, dumped pit new gas on it and truck runs again.
@@proroofersncllc-vb8rl might have to do that.. it's either that or the ecu is burnt out
I'm having this problem with my car when Im at a full stop at a traffic light and just letting my car idle out my steering wheel will shake and the car its self would shake and jerk, and all of a sudden when I accelerate my steering wheel would stop shaking, and my car would jerk or feels like it is going to die out even burbles coming out from my muffler, but when I fully step in gas pedal the car would run normal when I accelerate fast.
Helow sir, thank you for making this video. May i ask how to clean the IACV?
Mine has started having lower idle, but when I put it in gear, it drops way down and wants to stall. (hyundai santa fe 2009 2.7) I'm hoping it's something easier to access like the pvc. I'm really not great with cars.
Good video! I have a 2015 Nissan rogue, runs great first 10 minutes or so , but vibration starts and is present at stops, and at idle. I Cleaned up throttle body, mass airflow sensor, new filter, new pvc , no cracks in any hoses, new engine mounts, new 02 sensor, pre cat, no codes, fuel cleaner in , fuel trims are good … …🤔.. any thoughts?
I have tbe exact same issue right now, runs perfect first 10-20 mins, then bogs down when coming to idle, did you find the issue?
@@jadenengeman7341 most likely the vvt solenoids are bad or dirty. I traded the car in and did not fix it ..
Thank you brother. Does a 2002 Dodge ram van 1500. 5.2 have one? ✌️💙🏇🏇🏇
Here's the scoop. 2002 5.9l (gas) sat for 3 weeks. Now it won't start without starting fluid. Once started, it idles fine and throws no codes. If I slowly give it gas - it's fine. If I goose it - it chokes out. Btw, without starting fluid it cranks like a bear and when I let off the key it tries to start at the very end of the cycle. Can you tell me what you would look for right off the bat? I'm getting up in age and it's winter so the less time I'm dickin with it the better. Thanx in advance.
It needs to be diagnosed, but I would check the fuel pressure regulator, the check valve, or the component (it can vary) that stops the fuel from flowing back into the tank when the engine shuts down.
@HVAC_Mechanic Thanx for the quick response. I'll pick up some beer, hotdogs, and dynamite tomorrow.
Amazing man, thank you so much for this! 🙌
Question: I'm not getting fuel to the throttle body on my 1992 Mitsubishi Montero LS 3.0 engine. HELP
MY 2004 TOWN CAR,STARTED TIS RECENTLY,I HAD CHANGE THE IACV A FEW MONTHS AGO,FOR A NISE COMING FORM MY AIR BOX,VIBRATING,HIGH PITCHED NOISE,CHANGEIT,WENT AWAY,NOW THE FAST IDLE AT COLD START,NO LONGER HAPPENS,JUST VERY LOW IDE,I HAVE TO PEDAL TO KEEP RUNNING,AFTER WARMING UP,DOES BETTER,STILL A LITTLE MISS FEELING,BUT RUNS GOOD WHILE DRIVING,SHOULD I CHANGE THE IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE AGAIN? I DID BUY FROM E-BAY,IT WAS CHEAPER,WAY CHEAPER,THANKS,APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS, I GET NO CODES OR ENGINE LIGHT,CLEANED THE THOTTLR BODY AND THE MAF SENOR, NOT MUCH CHANGE AND STILL NO ATOUMATIC HIGHER IDLE AT COLD START.
Have all the symptoms you mentioned. I cleaned throttle body, replaced Tps, and IAC. Reset CPU and now my truck start up fine but won't want to drive or move completely
Are there any codes? Also, some vehicles have what's called a throttle relearn. If the throttle is cleaned or a sensor is replaced, the computer may need to learn the new variances. Often, the computer will relearn automatically, but sometimes there is a set procedure.
@@HVAC_Mechanic thanks so much for reply and no. No codes what so ever
The throttle body I took out and clean looks OK and clean and the window flop is opened and close by toggle back and fore OK. I'm kinda baffled
It's 1999 4runner limited
I would recheck all the wires and any hoses and be sure everything plugged in good. The throttle body may be good, and there may be another issue. With no codes, it will need to be diagnosed, and components will need to be tested to find the problem.
My 1999 silverado 5.7 ildes high while driving but drops back down after i stop
I have a creta 2017 which doesn't start unless I push the gas paddle. Rarely stalls 2-3 min after start and it's usually when stopped at traffic lights. The throttle was cleaned, changed sparks and air filter, still the issue remains (no error codes). It happens when the car is parked for like +8hours. What could be the issue?
What happen if the iacv hose line has tiny leak ?
Does it suppose to leak or vacuum air thru the idle control valve ? I did a smoke test and smoke came out of the control valve
this happen to me only when my car get warm an ac is on can that be the same issue?
2016 cryshler 200 2.4 once you have it in reverse engine stalls,replace motor mount.transmission mount same thing did tuneup spark plugs coils,pcv,clean throttle body
Hi, my name is Fran I have a 2008 Saturn Arua XR 3.6 with Idle problems changed the throttle body and checked for a vacuum leak checked some wiring still the same problem. What's next? Changed the throttle body because had a low-speed warning light.
Its the same issue with mates Toyota hilux. Prob mid 80's. Trayback . I pulled it off and cleaned it. Good for 2 days then back to over reving, about 2100. It is the idle sensor, electric that controls a magnet i think to turn the shaft inside. Ive minipulated the shaft and confirms its faulty. But only the magnet! End where it has a elec plug.
Mine does those things but also after it's warmed up when I put it in gear it dirs
I’m having the idle problems bad but I’m having codes like p052c cold start and other codes like camshaft/crankshaft correlation sensor and timing codes, could the AIC or throttle body cause such things??
It will need to be troubleshooted, but that sounds like a timing issue such as a slipped timing chain/belt.
Mine didn’t have a cel when idling as soon as I hit high rpm the cel comes on. Now it comes on as soon as I start the engine. It’s just got worse
IAC vs bad TPS thought ?
What if when you step on the gas and it puts
I hate that....
Hey bro. My car is 2006 honda civic coupe 1.8… does it have an IAC valve or its called purge solenoid valve??…coz i cleaned my throttle body using cr throttle body cleaner. After that the idle is too high and fluctuating and the engine light turns on. I reset it manually by gaking the negative wire on the battery. and by the way i scanned it and the code is po505 .. doni have to replace the purge valve that is attached to the throttle body???
The purge valve is for the EVAP system used for emissions, which is separate from the throttle body idle. If the purge valve is bad, it will usually give an EVAP code. With a P0505 code, there is still an issue with the throttle body. Usually, it is dirty and needs cleaning, or a component has failed, but it needs to be troubleshooted.
Thank you bro that's good information to know
So i was getting shaking when idling so i cleaned my throttle body and put in a new aic valve and my problems started. Was the new one i put in faulty? I bought it at autozone. Should I go and demand another one?
Some vehicles have what called a Throttle Body Relearn. If the parts and wiring is good, I would research if it needs a throttle Relearn.
Unhook bat, set for 30 mins. Hook bat up, let idle for 10mins.
Thank you
Good video, well done sir!! I subscribed to ya!!
What about the engine nice and hot and push on the pedal while in park an it idles high like 3 rpm’s then after 10 sec or so it starts to idle down to normal is that a sign of bad iac too ?? Code shows p0507
I made a video on a P0507 code. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/EmP0yDshwIc/v-deo.html
Thanks sir
Great thank you
Your awesome
My toyota stalls while am driving up a hill
I found out a faulty IAC can create LEAN codes. Might register as fine but still might now be operating correctly. Schrodingers Cat YT channel, fyi
Og ghost cam
Fuel pump
Every time he says "idle air control valve" take a shot! 🫣🤣
🤣🍺IDLE🍺AIR🍺CONTROL🍺VALVE🍺🤣
No way I can work on my car now. 😂
Are you okay?
@@rswindol who me?
@Jimnymudhunter Yeah, you didn't slam too many shooters?
My car stalls at stops and even cuts off when in neutral any idea of what’s causing it? I replaced the MAF and cleaned the throttle body