BMW X5 LOWER CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENT.
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this one I attend to my very neglected 2001 BMW X5. I replace bothe front lower control/thrust arms as well as one rear upper control arm. With the suspension sorted, we can now move on to the window regulators. Thanks for watching!!
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Excellent tutorial, recently did this same job on my '04 X5. Couple of points: to reach the inner bolt/mount, I had to remove the plastic apron & an air box contraption that was in the way. The other point to mention is I've heard & read elsewhere that the hub & suspension needs to be preloaded to vehicle ride height before tightening that inner mount. Hope this helps some of you.👍
People are always talking trash about BMWs, but I own two & can say every car has unique issues. Dealing with BMWs can be challenging in that they're over engineered, but problems are common enough that they can be dealt with as parts are readily available. True, if you're a DIY type, the costs are minimized, paying a dealer, will " Brake My Wallet"!👍
-'04 X5 3.0
-'04 Z4 2.5
Absolutely right
Probably too late by now, but for X5, front upper/lowers should be preloaded for long service life. I see you are in CT! I am looking for a garage myself.
You should have torqued the thrust arm bushings are ride height. Not doing so will wear the bushing out very quickly.
Truthfully I remembered that after I put it down. I went back and loosened them and retorqued them on the ground. Good catch!
Great video. But I would have definitely changed those Ball joints too.
hi is it possible if you can link me the ball joint tool you've used
I cant seem to find any
Good job ! Mine is E53 X5 3.0i 2001 with 240K miles on it. quite a lot parts replaced with OE.
Great video! Explained the process very well, thanks. Also can you add the link for the tool you used to pull from the ball joint? Thanks.
Do t do final torque setting union your front end parts u till the there is preload on the control Arms. U can do this either on the ground or place jack stands under the arms. Once weight of the vehicle is on the suspension then set torque settings.
Thanks for the video. Just FYI, some of the 6 cylinder e53s do use the 20 pin round connector under the hood for OBD II. I know because I have one that does. Mine is a 2001 model US 3.0i I6 X5 built in late August of 2000. I believe all of the 3.0s built through about September 2000 had this. It can be confusing if you don't know this and are trying to read codes from under the dash.
Great DIY video. Thank you.
Don’t you wanna level the SUV’s weight to the ground before torque-tighten that arm bushing?
Great Video! Thanks for this.
🌟Absolutely fabulous fantastic and forthright tutorial...hands down. This guy speaks my language totally! My same experiences, sentiments and ideas. Are you blk ,,,,never mind that! Anyways, I'm looking into having this job done on my 1st gen X3. But with this video I'm doing yet another job myself (I don't have a lift tho) . Good damn job man!👏
I think I can get that ball joint separator from the neighborhood auto parts store as a loaner tool.
Great job bro!
Wow awesome vid man, one the best and well explained ive seen yet... Well done, SUBSCRIBED :)
Awesome, thank you!
What brand is that ball joint separator? I bought one locally but it is too short to fit up in there.
Where can I get the lower control arm hydraulic ball joint puller you show in your video on the your 2001 bmw and the wheel pins
lil Happy Gilmore there.. tap tap taparoo
Cant wait for the window regulator videos.It's tricky job on X5 i think.
PS: You should install E53 window deflectors.These are great in winter so fresh air could go in.
It's not so bad, have done one window, I think it was another of rear ones of E53. And then I have done one E83 too. Quite cheap parts also from Ebay, though not OEM. Usually you should always use OEM ones :D
@@thetoughcookie3665 I agree... I've done the drivers window 3x and all other windows 2x each using regulators off ebay. Make sure to change out the 2 plastic clips that attach the regulator to the bottom of the window too. I've missed doing that previously and it caused me to do a replacement early.
You didn't preload the thrust arms ?
traction control dash light could be the wheel bearings?
Sir, thanks for your video. I have a 2015 X5 F15 and I am having some surging issues. no dash lights on! I have changed the GIBO DISK, SHAFT SUPPORT , TRANS MISSION SUPPORT, ENGINE MOUNTS . Do you have any ideas on what causes this?
You talk of a under hood 20 pin connector (besides the OBD 2 inside.)
1) Where exactly is it under the hood ?? I have a 2002 , 4.6is. Maybe not in this model ?
2) Also what type of scanner do you use and where to buy.
Didn't
Thanks
3) Where to buy those pins for installing the tires ?
I just did the driver's side and I refuse to say how long it took lol. The ball joint remover is a Godsend. When you put everything back together and did a test drive, did your DSC inactivate light go on? I didn't drive it much, just around my subdivision. I assume it's readjusting to the new parts ( I also replaced my outer tie rod).
What brand of ball joint separator did you use? I bought one locally but it is too short and fat to fit into this particular ball joint.
@@Jonesy-dv3bj I can't remember but I did get it on Amazon.
You ever thought of fabricating headers for this V8, it's the 4.4 right?
Hi! What socket size we need to change this arm. Thank you!
Relaced passenger side control arm now side lites aren't working dash says check side lites
are your timing chain guides ok? because i was told that was gonna be an issue with my 2003 BMW X5 4.4i mine has 160,000 miles
My X5 had the guides done at 170k and my 540i needs them done and it’s at 160k so yes it’s def a concern.
They're thrust Arms, not control Arms
People drive on the same side of the road in Europe as you, just thought you should know. Maybe it's England you are thinking of that's the other side.