Omg!! Someone who finally gets it!! Ppl dont want silly intros and someone waffling on for 10minutes when trying to fix something, they just want bullet points like this, the fact was sped up was even better!! Cheers man !!
There is a reason that, as of now, there are no 'dislike' thumbs...straight forward, to the point and super detailed and informative. Wish more UA-camrs would use this format! Great job!
Thats the best video ever Fast Easy to understand There is many that they tallk and tallk and tallk but never understand them You have even no voice and explane everything Thanks mate
Excellent video!! Thank you for taking the time. So precise with the information and the how-to. Proof that one doesnt need elaborate intros, outros, music bs, rambling nonsense to show how smthn is done. Hands down best how-to vid. Subscribing to the channel NOW!
ANYONE WITH A V8: the access hatches seen here, actually have brake cooling ducts in them, so instead you have to undo the 5 8mm screws on each underside corner of the bar, and pull the front of the wheel lining out, and you can get the socket in there, but you need low profile sockets (at least on the left, havent done right yet) for the bushing bolt, as theres a steel bracket there. I also removed the whole splash guard, he pulls back in the video, for his spanner. Hope this helps someone !! Still, this is great guide!!
Hey wow, this is one of the best DIY videos I've ever seen. Great job. I'll be undertaking this tomorrow and your video will be instrumental in my success. Thanks for your work!
Only step missing here was removing the brake ducting. Instead of a "dust cover" I have a brake duct (sport model with 214's, 2012 MY). Many more steps to get that out of the way to remove the 18mm bolt.
One of the best videos on e70. Very informative and straightforward. Thanks Mike. Where can we get the hexagon bolts and self lock nuts? Can they be reused?
Does the nuts has to be tightened before lowering the jack down onto jack stand? Or just tighten enough and tighten some more when the jack is lowered? I tighten the bolts and then lowered the jack and tightened some more. Just wondering if I did right Thanks,
one of the best out there. why is it necessary to put the weight of the car 1st before finally tightening the 18mm bolt? anyone? what is the rationale?
Thank you! This must be done so that the busings are sit in working position and then tightened. If tightened in the wrong position, then in the working position they will be under heavy load and quickly burst.
The last step shows here of compressing the suspension to ride height to torque the bolts is very important and should not be skipped unless you want to keep doing this job every month. If you do not do this step, you will break the bushings in the new control arms.
@@mikes.garage Thanks! Can compressing or lifting the suspension be done with a bottle jack while the rest of the car is still on jack stands? I know you did it, but it doesn't seem safe to put jack stands under the control arms.
@@Adam-jq6xl Yes. Its actually better because it puts more pressure on the suspension on the side you tighten. Jacking under both steering knuckles does not allow the proper force to be applied as they are more inboard than the tires will be.
Question, I just bought the whole kit to do it myself but I noticed they didn't send the 27mm nuts. I noticed you reused the original nut. Is that cool or should I order those nuts or used the lock nuts they sent. Thanks, great video!
You can reuse original nuts if they in good shape. I didn't use new nuts as they were smaller and required big washers which I didn't have. Thank you for watching!
The rubber bushing on the inner foremost side of the arm has a hydraulic fluid in it; they fail and leak, and they will also leak when new if not preloaded before tightened as shown in the video.
@@mikes.garage I never understood the point of lowering the arm and then tightening the bolt, the bolt goes through a metal sleeve. Why does the position of the arm matter when tightening the bolt, I never understood this, the arm is made to move up and down, so what stress does the bolt cause, the bolt is just to secure it to the subframe. Can you explain this?
@@dappa311 because metal sleeve holds on rubber bushings, if you not lower the car before tighten the bolt bushing will setting crooked and worn out fast.
Omg!! Someone who finally gets it!! Ppl dont want silly intros and someone waffling on for 10minutes when trying to fix something, they just want bullet points like this, the fact was sped up was even better!! Cheers man !!
Thank you! I’m the same way, that’s why I decided to create this channel with videos I would like to see my self.
There is a reason that, as of now, there are no 'dislike' thumbs...straight forward, to the point and super detailed and informative. Wish more UA-camrs would use this format! Great job!
Thank you for watching!
The jack stands under the control arms was the tip I was looking for! Thanks for a VERY efficient video.
Thank you for watching!
Thats the best video ever
Fast
Easy to understand
There is many that they tallk and tallk and tallk but never understand them
You have even no voice and explane everything
Thanks mate
Thank you for watching!
Good video showing you how to do this quickly. A word of advice for anyone attempting this job, DO NOT TRY THIS WITHOUT A BALL JOINT SEPARATOR TOOL!
If you are replacing the ball joint then you can just whack the bolt out of the socket. Who cares if it will damage the old part.
@@kentonpa I've been doing this job today...... joint will not move even with a sledge hammer. Pickle fork and ball joint separator on the way!!!
Excellent video!! Thank you for taking the time. So precise with the information and the how-to. Proof that one doesnt need elaborate intros, outros, music bs, rambling nonsense to show how smthn is done. Hands down best how-to vid. Subscribing to the channel NOW!
@@jorgesalinas6697 Thank you!
Great video...actually demonstrates the entire procedure.....No BS.
Thank you for watching!
ANYONE WITH A V8: the access hatches seen here, actually have brake cooling ducts in them, so instead you have to undo the 5 8mm screws on each underside corner of the bar, and pull the front of the wheel lining out, and you can get the socket in there, but you need low profile sockets (at least on the left, havent done right yet) for the bushing bolt, as theres a steel bracket there. I also removed the whole splash guard, he pulls back in the video, for his spanner. Hope this helps someone !! Still, this is great guide!!
I like this video even though nothing was said. It was self explanatory. One of the best I've seen.
Thank you for watching! 😊
Great, easy to follow video. Best I’ve seen for instructive DIY car mechanics. Thank you and well done!
Thank you for watching!
Great video. Excellent quality. Thorough steps and no wasted time talking crap. Keep it up 👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Hey wow, this is one of the best DIY videos I've ever seen. Great job. I'll be undertaking this tomorrow and your video will be instrumental in my success. Thanks for your work!
Thank you for watching! I'm glad that my video was helpful.
Thanks for showing the correct procedure!!
Thank you for watching!
This is good. Thanks! It explains something other clips generally missing.
Thank you for watching!
This is a great video!!! Straight forward, no bs! Right into it. You’ve got a new follower Sir
Thank you! 😊
Only step missing here was removing the brake ducting. Instead of a "dust cover" I have a brake duct (sport model with 214's, 2012 MY). Many more steps to get that out of the way to remove the 18mm bolt.
Nice to see an informative video with no BS. Thank you very much.
Thank you for watching! ☺️
One of the best videos on e70. Very informative and straightforward. Thanks Mike.
Where can we get the hexagon bolts and self lock nuts? Can they be reused?
Thank you for watching!
You can buy them at dealership or online. Yes, you can reuse them too.
Best video tutorial, I will be doing this soon.
Thanks and good luck!
Excellent video. Can't stand when people show how to fix a car while holding their camera phone. At least this guy had someone else hold the camera.
Thank you!
I was transfixed - amazing video!!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you. Your the best.
Thank you for watching! 😊
Thank you, you really know your stuff amazing I almost give up doing those arms excellent tips
Great video. Will this also work on a 2013 X6 E71?
Thank you! Yes, this will work on X6.
Merry Christmas! Very nice video. Can I use the same version as you do on my F11 xDrive without removing the drive shaft? Thank you!
Thank yoy and Merry Christmas! To be honest with you I don't know. I never had a deal with F11.
Thank you very much. Very helpful.
Thank you for watching!
Does the nuts has to be tightened before lowering the jack down onto jack stand? Or just tighten enough and tighten some more when the jack is lowered?
I tighten the bolts and then lowered the jack and tightened some more. Just wondering if I did right
Thanks,
The point is to tighten the lever bushings simulating as if the car is standing on wheels. Otherwise your bushings will be destroyed in a hurry
Wery good information. Thanks.
Thank you!
Good work my friend. Nice and clean
Thank you for watching!
Is this also referred as "thrust arm"? I have a clunk sound going over big dip on front driver side.
Yes, this is what you need to replace. And yes, this is trust arm
Excellent video, much appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
one of the best out there.
why is it necessary to put the weight of the car 1st before finally tightening the 18mm bolt? anyone? what is the rationale?
Thank you! This must be done so that the busings are sit in working position and then tightened. If tightened in the wrong position, then in the working position they will be under heavy load and quickly burst.
@@mikes.garage
ok great. is that a 6-cyl 3.0 engine?
Yes!
I've read that some had to remove the CV axles, is there any reason why you would need to?
I don’t know why need to remove axels. I was able to replace these arms without removing axles.
Super video! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Great video. Thanks a lot. Can someone tell me the reasoning behind putting the jackstands under the control arms before the final type thing?
The last step shows here of compressing the suspension to ride height to torque the bolts is very important and should not be skipped unless you want to keep doing this job every month. If you do not do this step, you will break the bushings in the new control arms.
@@mikes.garage Thanks! Can compressing or lifting the suspension be done with a bottle jack while the rest of the car is still on jack stands? I know you did it, but it doesn't seem safe to put jack stands under the control arms.
@@Adam-jq6xl you can do it anyway you want.
@@Adam-jq6xl Yes. Its actually better because it puts more pressure on the suspension on the side you tighten. Jacking under both steering knuckles does not allow the proper force to be applied as they are more inboard than the tires will be.
Question, I just bought the whole kit to do it myself but I noticed they didn't send the 27mm nuts. I noticed you reused the original nut. Is that cool or should I order those nuts or used the lock nuts they sent. Thanks, great video!
You can reuse original nuts if they in good shape. I didn't use new nuts as they were smaller and required big washers which I didn't have. Thank you for watching!
Do you need to do alignment after doing that job?
@@mydc2200 This is not necessarily but highly recommended
Started on the driver side.... How'd you stop the wheel knuckle from moving when applying torque to loosen the 26mm nut?
Am I missing something here?
Great video!
Just take small extension and put it in 26mm socket then turn it until it stops spinning.
Amazing video! Very helpful! Thank you! 💖
Thank you!
Fantastic video, thank you so much
Thank you for watching!
Do you have a workshop? Can you carry out this work for my car ... what I mean is do you provide the service please?
I have my garage where I fixing my cars 🙂
Good work!
Thank you! ☺️
Hi 🖐 Is this big black sleeve at the end of the rocker arm only rubber or is there any oil inside? I noticed strange leaks in that place..
Hi, at one end of control arm ball joint, which is covered with dust cover inside should be grease. From other end rubber bushing, nothing inside.
The rubber bushing on the inner foremost side of the arm has a hydraulic fluid in it; they fail and leak, and they will also leak when new if not preloaded before tightened as shown in the video.
tq 4 the video
Thank you for watching 😉
BEST
Thanks!
Awesome
Thanks you Good 🌹
Thank you for watching!
How did you know the ball joint was bad?
It was knocking noise while braking. Also you can try to take this control arm with your hand and wiggle it hard, you will hear the noise.
@@mikes.garage I never understood the point of lowering the arm and then tightening the bolt, the bolt goes through a metal sleeve.
Why does the position of the arm matter when tightening the bolt, I never understood this, the arm is made to move up and down, so what stress does the bolt cause, the bolt is just to secure it to the subframe.
Can you explain this?
@@dappa311 because metal sleeve holds on rubber bushings, if you not lower the car before tighten the bolt bushing will setting crooked and worn out fast.
will this work for 2007 X5 3.0 engine 6cyl?
Yes, this is exactly the same year and engine on this video 😉
it is amazing how you work efficiently w/o even listening to music.
@@mikes.garage
so, that is an 2007 X5 il6 3.0si? wow
Yes, this is 2007 BMW X5 il6 3.0si with 350000 km on it.
Thank you!
👏👏👍