I have no idea how much money you have saved me because I did not bother to look. I truly trust your expertise to the moon and back as diy'er(???). Replaced upper and lower control arms on both sides of an 2006 650i and it went almost as smooth video. It pleases me most that in this day of hard times you have allowed me to maintain food in my family's bellies, maintain the integrity of my car/toy, and without disrupting the bank at all. YOU'RE THE BESTEST!!!!!😎 .
This vehicle has 68,000 miles. The symptom was front-end vibration at highway speeds. In normal inspection, the bushings looked fine. It takes a knowledge of the common BMW faults and symptoms to be able to realize that this would be the most common reason for a front vibration ... even if the bushings look good. They get soft and allow the oscillations.
How right you are, Andrew! We are constantly talking to customers who have a front shake and have been "assured" by their mechanics that the bushings are fine and could not possibly be at fault .... only to find that replacing them cures the problem.
it amazes me how often you are told these bushes are ok when they have gone soft. I replace them as soon as I feel movement on braking. They only seem to last 2 to 3 sets of tyres. New bushes make a huge difference to the car.
Love your Videos,just as a comment, just did replace the thrust arms on my 2008 E63 in my driveway. it was not necessary to lift the strut, seemingly the BMW designers changed it to make it easier. Thank you for the Videos
Thanks for the great repair video! I'm looking to tackle this job soon and am collecting all of the resources I can. Great clear and concise instruction! Anyone should feel confident with this video.
Man you are the greatest I just changed my control arms an must I say I HAD A BLAST the process was just as you explained you are the BEST. Once again thank you my friend. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Thanks, Otto! Did this job on my 2006 330i and it's even easier than in the video because on the e90 there is more clearance and the control arm comes right out without lossening any other parts.
Great video, I'm new in car mechanic and I'm in a country that they don't know to much about cars. But what does that part do if you need to changed? is it avoiding sound when drive on a bumpy road?
I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me so thoroughly. I didnt think I could do it because of the strut but after watching this ..I'm doing it. !
The ball joint pin came out very easily it normally is a real pain to take out. What if some one wants to use the same nuts rather then buying new locking ones, is there any way you can do that? I did not use new locking nuts when I did it on my E38. Its a bit late now I guess.
Good Video Presentation.. I'm replacing my front control arms with OEM Lemforder for my 2016 Audi. Is it recommended that a wheel alignment is performed in a timely manner.
Hey big a have a question?! 1st let me say your videos was perfect and very easy to follow but I also have another problem with my steering mechanism now if you look on your video when you’re under the car there is the sway bar and another aluminum round piece that’s a welded to the body of the car right next to the sway bar would you happen to know what that is called or where I can find one to replace mine’s.. please and thank you
Great video. I'm in the middle of changing my thrust arm out and the nut did spin off a little but now it is so bound up causing the ball joint to spin and I'm breaking Torx40 sockets due to the binding. The nut is backed off flush with the tip of the bolt. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this; heat, nut breaker, dremel?
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2002 X5 3.0 it has a vibration when braking on the freeway or downhill on the front driver side. I wast told to replace rotors. I did replace new rotors, brakes and the problem still there. later I replaced the UPPER control arm and links on both sides and the problem still there. rotated tires and still the same. Would this be the problem? or any more ideas? I will appreciate it. car has 165k but I would still drive it.
8:57 I wonder if I can just replace the bushing without taking the arm off (and potentially messing up the wheel alignment. This is assuming the ball joint is in good condition.
They do sell replacement bushing www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-e81-e90-e65-e66-meyle-31120304308my#description But to me it makes more sense to just replace the entire arm because you’re already taking things apart and what’s to say the ball joint won’t fail 6 months later l
Yes, this will lead to premature bushing failure (and often, odd handling). And, yes, you can release the bolt-nut and re-torque while the suspension is properly compressed. This will not make it as though it was never tightened improperly, but will help it to live longer and function properly.
Thanks for the video. I'm a loyal customer already. Time to replace my pass side LCA. Felt a pull when I first bought my 05 645ci. I can definitely do it myself. Missing a car lift but have all the other tools! :D
Felt a tiny pull when I applied the brake. A mechanic told me it was the forward LCA which he said is a common item. Guess I'll have to do the rear facing as well to keep things even.
At the beginning of the video you say your replacing the UPPER control arm..but at 1:45 you call it a LOWER control arm. I need to replace this on my car as well and I want to order the part from bavauto, do which is it? Upper or Lower? This way I can life the correct part. Thank you.
Great video! I bought my bushings at BavAuto, will be changing only the UCA bushings and change the whole arm with BJ later if it fails as the pair of bushings was only $50.
you are so calm and relaxt..love to learn from youre videos...hope you can do more e39 videos...you have one how to replace oil sump casket of an e39 ??
Great work and thank you for a very helpful video I have been searching for this for quite some time now and you just made it clear so keep doing what you are doing an awesome job.
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
BavarianAuto Fantastic video, very informative. I will be getting your steering knucle spreader tool though - seems more efficient than the screwdriver. Question for you guys though - you where installing the Meyle parts. I will be replacing failed Meyle HD thrust arms due them failing after about 60K kilometers (which seems very premature to me). Would you recommend Meyle HD again, or should I go with Lemfeorder? (I know, I know.. it's like a Mac vs PC debate :-D ). P.S. Also, thrust arms affect caster, not toe specs :)
Adrian P Yes, the knuckle spreader is the way to go. We found and started stocking the spreader just after this video. Yes, 36-ish thousand miles does seem a bit early for the Meyle arms to fail. Is it the bushings or the ball joints that have failed? We certainly would not recommend against using the Lemfoerder units as replacement. The thrust arms can indeed affect the toe, as well as the caster. However, the only adjustment available, on a stock suspension, is the toe setting. Caster and camber are not adjustable.
Thanks for the info. I gave my son a small budget to pick out another "responsible family car” while we finish his project truck. It was leaking profusely on day one so we replaced the alternator bracket seal. This is sliding off the bushing now. As it sits I, I have $2560 in it and it's the most luxurious car we own. I'm still trying to figure out INPA.
This is a very good job sir, very nice. i like your videos, im in a automotive mechanic training in Germany for 3 years now (almost done) so your videos are very useful and interesting for me. thank you!
Thank you for replying its a 2000 323i and no it doesn't say wind shield but the symbol light appeared on the dashboard at first I didn't know what the light meant until I looked up the manual online
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
The ball-joint pins on these later-model BMWs are not tapered and, therefore, are not pressed into tapered receiver holes. That's why they just "fall apart" when the nut is removed. You can use a thread locking compound on the old nuts, if new ones are not available.
Get the schwaben tools ball joint separator that has a 80mm max opening because working on my 98 528i and so far the tie rod on one side and the upper control arm was stuck in the sleeve when trying to remove from the knuckle it will be a PITA if you also have rusted bolts and you finally break them loose to find out you ball joints are all stuck in the sleeves on the knuckle so be proactive and get that tool you will thank yourself later
When torquing the rear control arm, does both sides have to compressed to correct ride height, or can I just compress/load one side at a time, the side that I am working on. I read that both sides have to be compressed when torquing or there will be premature wear on the bushings. Thanks.
Have a shop check the rear chassis mounting points, where the four subframe mounts, mount to the chassis. Most E46 models that have not been driven aggressively are fine, but a check would be good.
I'm going to replace the front upper and lower control arms (1998 BMW 540i). Do I need to replace the bolts on the bushing ends or just new locking nuts? Would it be beneficial to lightly grease the ball joint end before inserting? Thanks for your time..
We have not produced an oil pan removal video. However, we do have a DIY tech blog post on the oil pan removal for an earlier 3-series model (E36) (see link below). Between this and the detailed procedures from the Bentley Publishing repair manual for the E39 5-series chassis (97-03), you can get a good idea of what's involved. E36 oil pan removal: blog.bavauto.com/15255 Bentley repair manuals: www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
We have not produced an oil pan removal video. However, we do have a DIY tech blog post on the oil pan removal for an earlier 3-series model (E36) (see link below). Between this and the detailed procedures from the Bentley Publishing repair manual for the E39 5-series chassis (97-03), you can get a good idea of what's involved. E36 oil pan removal: blog.bavauto.com/15255 Bentley repair manuals: www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
Hi BavarianAuto, super video on Replacing the control arm i love the way you explain and show how to things right, may i ask is it the same on an E39 03 model? and thanks once again.
The E39 is similar, but does have some differences. You do need to loosen and move the shock to access the ball-joint nut (similar to what is shown here). The configurations will be slightly different. If it is a 6-cylinder, the thrust arm (or upper control arm) will go to the rear of the vehicle vs. the front as shown here. Finally, the ball joints will be the common earlier tapered pin type that requires a puller to separate from the hub. Take a look at our video on replacing control arms an a 3-series (E30, E36, etc) for a view of separating this type of ball joint.
Also at the beginning of the demo video you mention that the arm you are replacing is the lower control arm, but the video title says upper control arm? I am a lil bit confused, I need to change that exact part on the from the video wich is in the front of the car on the drivers side plus a new locking bolt can you paste the links for these two items as I need to buy both these parts ASAP. And I need the whole thing with bushings. Thanks.
Pedro Banuelas The upper control arm is the one being replaced. Also known as thrust or strut arm. The Meyle and Lemfoerder arms come with new nuts (the bolts are fine to reuse).
Very great video! I have been working on my daughter's first car.....an 04 BMW 530i....a lot!! But nonetheless I think it to be a solid car still. Thanks again
Hello I got a 04 bmw 745li and I need to replace the front sway bar links. Up control arm. Lower rearward control arms. And inner and outer tie rods. So im trying to figure how can van I left up my front end so I can set it on jack stands
With the 2007 X3 E83 3.0si, the thrust arm ball joint is attached from underneath to the spindle with two screws. How would you suggest getting this one out? Thanks,
just did mine on my 2002 bmw 745li everything was east except when I tried to put the new one on it wouldn't line up but I finally got it on... thanks for the video
Hi Bavauto, I just got this job done on my E60 M5. I was watching the whole time and noticed that the bushing side of the suspension was tightened before the suspension was compressed. Will that hurt the bushing or wear it faster or what will be the downside of that. By the way, great video. Very detailed :-)
Go back to the shop immediately and have the bushings loosened and re-tightened with the vehicle at ride height. We would even suggest that the shop should re-do the whole job ... the bushings can be damaged very quickly in this way.
Hi otto I just replaced my control arms on my e60 only I didnt tighten the bushing under load will this damage the bushing or can I go and release the bolt while the car in on the ground and re touque the bolt
What are symptoms of bad thurst arm on bmw ? Have light steering wheel shaking then braking lightly (no shaking then pushing brake pedal harder) on my e39.
ERRATA for a 2003 745i, things that can go wrong and how to fix them. -- USE a rubber mallet to knock the wheel down the strut, JUST far enough to get the ball joint out. Also, try the crowbar as shown in the video to bring it down. When putting it back up, you DO need a jack of some kind. Then make sure you are lifting on the lower/rear ball joint so that it is lifting the wheel assembly straight up, directly under the center of the strut, or it can bind. If using a floor jack, use a piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint so you don't damage the grease seal. Also, miss the sheet metal flange when lifting. I used the rubber mallet with the jack to get it to go back in place. -- When dropping the wheel assembly down on the strut, it can come all the way down, off the strut, (for NO value). When you lift it back into the strut, there is a TAB behind the wheel on the strut, that must travel up and down the clamp assembly. You MUST alight the strut with this tab, or it will never go back. It can also get twisted over to one side and bind, and you will see the car lift, instead of the wheel on strut. (I used a small mirror from the outside of the wheel well, while the jack lifted it into place.) Use large pliers to grab the strut and easily twist it to align the tab. -- NOTE that if replacing the other lower/rear control arm, you can't get the new arm in, while the wheel is down from the strut--it must be up and in-place. (This may have made it easier to drop it down too far, with it off. Try replacing this whole arm BEFORE you drop it from the strut.) -- My car only had the one nut and bolt on the wheel assembly clamp, and not the extra 17 MM bolt. -- My car has a plastic shield around the frame bolt on the strut, that comes off by hand. -- May car has a NASTY plastic AIR RAM, coming from the front grill, directly behind the frame bold at a 45 deg. angle, ONLY 1.5 INCHES AWAY from that bolt!! Push hard and you can get a torque wrench in there, but just barely! Now after you take the nut off, get a BIG CROWBAR and move the plastic out of the way far enough to pull a 4" bolt out. But before that, you will likely have to take some of the wheel liner bolts out that are next to it. While I'm sure you could remove the whole wheel well liner and many other things to remove that vent, (that vent goes directly into the wheel well), I think forcing it away with some bolts removed is a better method. -- When putting weight / stress on the wheel before tightening the frame nut / bolt to 80 ft/lbs, have someone at least sit in the car. I used the jack method to lift the wheel, the way most shops likely do when replacing the strut. You'd be surprised how far it moves with someone sitting in that seat, though.
Hi a mechanic just replace lower and upper control sway bar and axle but when enter on my driveway (hit a bump)it make a noise like to clanks any idea thanks in advance
one of the best detail-by-detail DIY here in UA-cam.
I have no idea how much money you have saved me because I did not bother to look. I truly trust your expertise to the moon and back as diy'er(???). Replaced upper and lower control arms on both sides of an 2006 650i and it went almost as smooth video. It pleases me most that
in this day of hard times you have allowed me to maintain food in my family's bellies, maintain the integrity of my car/toy, and without disrupting the bank at all. YOU'RE THE BESTEST!!!!!😎
.
I noticed the steering vibrating under breaking. On closer inspection the inner bushes were worn. Great explanation, very clear and easy to follow.
This vehicle has 68,000 miles. The symptom was front-end vibration at highway speeds. In normal inspection, the bushings looked fine. It takes a knowledge of the common BMW faults and symptoms to be able to realize that this would be the most common reason for a front vibration ... even if the bushings look good. They get soft and allow the oscillations.
How right you are, Andrew! We are constantly talking to customers who have a front shake and have been "assured" by their mechanics that the bushings are fine and could not possibly be at fault .... only to find that replacing them cures the problem.
it amazes me how often you are told these bushes are ok when they have gone soft. I replace them as soon as I feel movement on braking. They only seem to last 2 to 3 sets of tyres. New bushes make a huge difference to the car.
Absolutely excellent tutorial video. Very concise, especially on the suspension pre-load before tightening the bushing.
instaBlaster
I think that your video and commentary rate among the very best. Thanks for providing this excellent tutorial.
Love your Videos,just as a comment, just did replace the thrust arms on my 2008 E63 in my driveway. it was not necessary to lift the strut, seemingly the BMW designers changed it to make it easier. Thank you for the Videos
Thanks for the great repair video! I'm looking to tackle this job soon and am collecting all of the resources I can. Great clear and concise instruction! Anyone should feel confident with this video.
Man you are the greatest I just changed my control arms an must I say I HAD A BLAST the process was just as you explained you are the BEST. Once again thank you my friend. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Thanks, Otto! Did this job on my 2006 330i and it's even easier than in the video because on the e90 there is more clearance and the control arm comes right out without lossening any other parts.
Great video,
I'm new in car mechanic and I'm in a country that they don't know to much about cars.
But what does that part do if you need to changed? is it avoiding sound when drive on a bumpy road?
I've done some work on my wife's 540 i. Tie rods replaced. Cost $60 each and 30 mins work. Great video.
Great video, and the guy was very clear explaining every little detail of the scope of work.
By far one of the best how to’s.
I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me so thoroughly. I didnt think I could do it because of the strut but after watching this ..I'm doing it. !
The ball joint pin came out very easily it normally is a real pain to take out.
What if some one wants to use the same nuts rather then buying new locking ones, is there any way you can do that? I did not use new locking nuts when I did it on my E38. Its a bit late now I guess.
Good Video Presentation.. I'm replacing my front control arms with OEM Lemforder for my 2016 Audi. Is it recommended that a wheel alignment is performed in a timely manner.
Excellent video quality and explanation of tightening under load.
so wonderful but what was the thrust arm problem ? that seems to me very clean and intact . how we can check and diagnose them before change ?
Hey big a have a question?! 1st let me say your videos was perfect and very easy to follow but I also have another problem with my steering mechanism now if you look on your video when you’re under the car there is the sway bar and another aluminum round piece that’s a welded to the body of the car right next to the sway bar would you happen to know what that is called or where I can find one to replace mine’s.. please and thank you
Great video. I'm in the middle of changing my thrust arm out and the nut did spin off a little but now it is so bound up causing the ball joint to spin and I'm breaking Torx40 sockets due to the binding. The nut is backed off flush with the tip of the bolt. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this; heat, nut breaker, dremel?
As always excellent video. took me about an hour actually 50 minutes to change one side.
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2002 X5 3.0
it has a vibration when braking on the freeway or downhill on the front driver side. I wast told to replace rotors. I did replace new rotors, brakes and the problem still there. later I replaced the UPPER control arm and links on both sides and the problem still there. rotated tires and still the same. Would this be the problem? or any more ideas? I will appreciate it. car has 165k but I would still drive it.
8:57 I wonder if I can just replace the bushing without taking the arm off (and potentially messing up the wheel alignment. This is assuming the ball joint is in good condition.
wondering the same thing. Seems like a lot less trouble if im just going after the bushing
They do sell replacement bushing
www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-e81-e90-e65-e66-meyle-31120304308my#description
But to me it makes more sense to just replace the entire arm because you’re already taking things apart and what’s to say the ball joint won’t fail 6 months later l
Yes, this will lead to premature bushing failure (and often, odd handling). And, yes, you can release the bolt-nut and re-torque while the suspension is properly compressed. This will not make it as though it was never tightened improperly, but will help it to live longer and function properly.
Thanks for the video. I'm a loyal customer already. Time to replace my pass side LCA. Felt a pull when I first bought my 05 645ci. I can definitely do it myself. Missing a car lift but have all the other tools! :D
Felt a tiny pull when I applied the brake. A mechanic told me it was the forward LCA which he said is a common item. Guess I'll have to do the rear facing as well to keep things even.
At the beginning of the video you say your replacing the UPPER control arm..but at 1:45 you call it a LOWER control arm. I need to replace this on my car as well and I want to order the part from bavauto, do which is it? Upper or Lower? This way I can life the correct part. Thank you.
Yes, we miss-spoke. This is called the UPPER arm ... or also the THRUST arm or STRUT arm. We call them UPPER arms.
Thank you! I'll be ordering my part at the end of the week.
Wonderful instructional. Can I use this as a guide to for my 2009 Z4?
Great video! I bought my bushings at BavAuto, will be changing only the UCA bushings and change the whole arm with BJ later if it fails as the pair of bushings was only $50.
you are so calm and relaxt..love to learn from youre videos...hope you can do more e39 videos...you have one how to replace oil sump casket of an e39 ??
Great work and thank you for a very helpful video I have been searching for this for quite some time now and you just made it clear so keep doing what you are doing an awesome job.
I just grind off 1/8-1/4 inch of the ball joint bolt end where the hex bit goes and it slides out no problem. No need to remove the pinch bolts
Thanks for the very clear tutorial. Do I have to take my BMW for alignment after this work?
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
BavarianAuto Fantastic video, very informative. I will be getting your steering knucle spreader tool though - seems more efficient than the screwdriver.
Question for you guys though - you where installing the Meyle parts. I will be replacing failed Meyle HD thrust arms due them failing after about 60K kilometers (which seems very premature to me). Would you recommend Meyle HD again, or should I go with Lemfeorder? (I know, I know.. it's like a Mac vs PC debate :-D ).
P.S. Also, thrust arms affect caster, not toe specs :)
Adrian P Yes, the knuckle spreader is the way to go. We found and started stocking the spreader just after this video.
Yes, 36-ish thousand miles does seem a bit early for the Meyle arms to fail. Is it the bushings or the ball joints that have failed? We certainly would not recommend against using the Lemfoerder units as replacement.
The thrust arms can indeed affect the toe, as well as the caster. However, the only adjustment available, on a stock suspension, is the toe setting. Caster and camber are not adjustable.
Nope
Thanks for the info. I gave my son a small budget to pick out another "responsible family car” while we finish his project truck. It was leaking profusely on day one so we replaced the alternator bracket seal. This is sliding off the bushing now. As it sits I, I have $2560 in it and it's the most luxurious car we own. I'm still trying to figure out INPA.
This is a very good job sir, very nice. i like your videos, im in a automotive mechanic training in Germany for 3 years now (almost done) so your videos are very useful and interesting for me.
thank you!
cảm ơn bạn đã chia sẻ và hướng dẫn cách tháo lắp và thay thế càng xe BMW 5,6,7 và x series
BAV AUTO made clear and concise videos.
Thank you for replying its a 2000 323i and no it doesn't say wind shield but the symbol light appeared on the dashboard at first I didn't know what the light meant until I looked up the manual online
Any suggestions on what to do if the torx is stripped?
Cut a slot in it with a hack saw.
Bavauto, after you install new thrust arms, do you need to align the front end? Thanks for the video!
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
Do you sell the Bearing Press Tool if the entire arm does not need to be replaced?
The ball-joint pins on these later-model BMWs are not tapered and, therefore, are not pressed into tapered receiver holes. That's why they just "fall apart" when the nut is removed. You can use a thread locking compound on the old nuts, if new ones are not available.
Thanks - very helpful and informative. The video was about 17 mins so I expect the time to complete at about 30 mins each?
Do u have a video on how to do this on the e90
Just the same
Hello, can you make a video about E39 control arms ?
Is this the same for an e70 x5? Also, what are the torque specs for all these bolts and nuts that you tightened?Thanks in advance!
Do you need to do a wheel alignment after that?
I didnt quite understand how far to compress the suspension before tightning the bushing bolt. What should I look for to start tightning?
Great video! One question - is an alignment needed after replacement of the thrust arm?
Chad Browning I heard it is by the BMW Dealership.
nice, clean and professional... every mechanic suppose to do so...
Get the schwaben tools ball joint separator that has a 80mm max opening because working on my 98 528i and so far the tie rod on one side and the upper control arm was stuck in the sleeve when trying to remove from the knuckle it will be a PITA if you also have rusted bolts and you finally break them loose to find out you ball joints are all stuck in the sleeves on the knuckle so be proactive and get that tool you will thank yourself later
When torquing the rear control arm, does both sides have to compressed to correct ride height, or can I just compress/load one side at a time, the side that I am working on. I read that both sides have to be compressed when torquing or there will be premature wear on the bushings. Thanks.
Anyone know the torque specs for the this?
Torque specs would be the cherry on top
Where can I find the torque specs?
I should be able to replace the hydro bearing only and not the arm for a 2008 528i?
Excellent tutorial many thanks 👍🏻👏👏
Also what do you recommend before buying the car I have heard BMW had a recall because of the sub frame
Have a shop check the rear chassis mounting points, where the four subframe mounts, mount to the chassis. Most E46 models that have not been driven aggressively are fine, but a check would be good.
Are you sure you need to push it off the strut on an e65? I looked, and looks like there's enough clearance.
Are my ball joint bolts supposed to be different thickness from right to left?
I'm going to replace the front upper and lower control arms (1998 BMW 540i). Do I need to replace the bolts on the bushing ends or just new locking nuts? Would it be beneficial to lightly grease the ball joint end before inserting? Thanks for your time..
otto so monotone yet so smart and resourceful!!
Does the suspension need to be compressed when replacing the lower control arm as well?
Yes, same as the upper.
Is there a chance you can show the step by step removal of oil pan gasket on an 01 e39
We have not produced an oil pan removal video. However, we do have a DIY tech blog post on the oil pan removal for an earlier 3-series model (E36) (see link below). Between this and the detailed procedures from the Bentley Publishing repair manual for the E39 5-series chassis (97-03), you can get a good idea of what's involved.
E36 oil pan removal:
blog.bavauto.com/15255
Bentley repair manuals:
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
We have not produced an oil pan removal video. However, we do have a DIY tech blog post on the oil pan removal for an earlier 3-series model (E36) (see link below). Between this and the detailed procedures from the Bentley Publishing repair manual for the E39 5-series chassis (97-03), you can get a good idea of what's involved.
E36 oil pan removal:
blog.bavauto.com/15255
Bentley repair manuals:
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
Great Video! The camera work shows the job to be very easy. I wish you would include the torque specs in the video.
+Barry Hansen Yes, torque specs would be great...
THATS HOW THEY GET YOU TO BUY THE BOOK, IM SURE YOU CAN GOOGLE SEARCH OR SEARCH BMW FORUMS TO FIND THAT INFO.
Hi BavarianAuto, super video on Replacing the control arm i love the way you explain and show how to things right, may i ask is it the same on an E39 03 model? and thanks once again.
The E39 is similar, but does have some differences. You do need to loosen and move the shock to access the ball-joint nut (similar to what is shown here). The configurations will be slightly different. If it is a 6-cylinder, the thrust arm (or upper control arm) will go to the rear of the vehicle vs. the front as shown here. Finally, the ball joints will be the common earlier tapered pin type that requires a puller to separate from the hub. Take a look at our video on replacing control arms an a 3-series (E30, E36, etc) for a view of separating this type of ball joint.
Also at the beginning of the demo video you mention that the arm you are replacing is the lower control arm, but the video title says upper control arm? I am a lil bit confused, I need to change that exact part on the from the video wich is in the front of the car on the drivers side plus a new locking bolt can you paste the links for these two items as I need to buy both these parts ASAP. And I need the whole thing with bushings.
Thanks.
Pedro Banuelas The upper control arm is the one being replaced. Also known as thrust or strut arm. The Meyle and Lemfoerder arms come with new nuts (the bolts are fine to reuse).
Very great video! I have been working on my daughter's first car.....an 04 BMW 530i....a lot!! But nonetheless I think it to be a solid car still. Thanks again
Otto, can you show the torque specs for the bolts removed? Thank you!
Great information on how to do it yourself
Thank you very much for that. Easier on a lift but something this little woman can definitely do.
what are the sizes of the two replacement lock nuts
So what will happen if you dont have the car at ride height when tightening the control arm?
I know you mention that it would work on a 2012 328i F30, i just want to double check that. Would this tutorial be the same for a 2012 BMW 328i F30?
Hello I got a 04 bmw 745li and I need to replace the front sway bar links. Up control arm. Lower rearward control arms. And inner and outer tie rods. So im trying to figure how can van I left up my front end so I can set it on jack stands
Can you please list the torque specs on the nuts and bolts in this video? I cannot find a manual for the G11
Thank you
With the 2007 X3 E83 3.0si, the thrust arm ball joint is attached from underneath to the spindle with two screws. How would you suggest getting this one out?
Thanks,
I'm amazed if non mechanics are trying to do this in their driveways.
just did mine on my 2002 bmw 745li everything was east except when I tried to put the new one on it wouldn't line up but I finally got it on... thanks for the video
Hi Bavauto, I just got this job done on my E60 M5. I was watching the whole time and noticed that the bushing side of the suspension was tightened before the suspension was compressed. Will that hurt the bushing or wear it faster or what will be the downside of that. By the way, great video. Very detailed :-)
Go back to the shop immediately and have the bushings loosened and re-tightened with the vehicle at ride height. We would even suggest that the shop should re-do the whole job ... the bushings can be damaged very quickly in this way.
BavarianAuto How quickly would the bushings be damaged? 10's of miles, 100's, ?
Hi otto I just replaced my control arms on my e60 only I didnt tighten the bushing under load will this damage the bushing or can I go and release the bolt while the car in on the ground and re touque the bolt
Super helpful video. Thanks for the professional information.
Thank you guys so very much. I appreciate all your videos!!!
What is the cracking noise at slow turns of the steering wheel on the front axle on a bmw e53 3.0i??? Changed all front axle arms. Still does it
Dan Alex coil shims. Replace them or just spray some wd40 leave it over night to soak in
Would the procedure be about the same for a 2016 328i F30?
Yes thank you for the info and great video. I’m learning the E38 repairs from you and really enjoy your videos.
What are the torque specs?
What are symptoms of bad thurst arm on bmw ? Have light steering wheel shaking then braking lightly (no shaking then pushing brake pedal harder) on my e39.
How can you tell that the bushing is worn out?
ERRATA for a 2003 745i, things that can go wrong and how to fix them.
-- USE a rubber mallet to knock the wheel down the strut, JUST far enough to get the ball joint out. Also, try the crowbar as shown in the video to bring it down. When putting it back up, you DO need a jack of some kind. Then make sure you are lifting on the lower/rear ball joint so that it is lifting the wheel assembly straight up, directly under the center of the strut, or it can bind. If using a floor jack, use a piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint so you don't damage the grease seal. Also, miss the sheet metal flange when lifting. I used the rubber mallet with the jack to get it to go back in place.
-- When dropping the wheel assembly down on the strut, it can come all the way down, off the strut, (for NO value). When you lift it back into the strut, there is a TAB behind the wheel on the strut, that must travel up and down the clamp assembly. You MUST alight the strut with this tab, or it will never go back. It can also get twisted over to one side and bind, and you will see the car lift, instead of the wheel on strut. (I used a small mirror from the outside of the wheel well, while the jack lifted it into place.) Use large pliers to grab the strut and easily twist it to align the tab.
-- NOTE that if replacing the other lower/rear control arm, you can't get the new arm in, while the wheel is down from the strut--it must be up and in-place. (This may have made it easier to drop it down too far, with it off. Try replacing this whole arm BEFORE you drop it from the strut.)
-- My car only had the one nut and bolt on the wheel assembly clamp, and not the extra 17 MM bolt.
-- My car has a plastic shield around the frame bolt on the strut, that comes off by hand.
-- May car has a NASTY plastic AIR RAM, coming from the front grill, directly behind the frame bold at a 45 deg. angle, ONLY 1.5 INCHES AWAY from that bolt!! Push hard and you can get a torque wrench in there, but just barely! Now after you take the nut off, get a BIG CROWBAR and move the plastic out of the way far enough to pull a 4" bolt out. But before that, you will likely have to take some of the wheel liner bolts out that are next to it. While I'm sure you could remove the whole wheel well liner and many other things to remove that vent, (that vent goes directly into the wheel well), I think forcing it away with some bolts removed is a better method.
-- When putting weight / stress on the wheel before tightening the frame nut / bolt to 80 ft/lbs, have someone at least sit in the car. I used the jack method to lift the wheel, the way most shops likely do when replacing the strut. You'd be surprised how far it moves with someone sitting in that seat, though.
Hi a mechanic just replace lower and upper control sway bar and axle but when enter on my driveway (hit a bump)it make a noise like to clanks any idea thanks in advance
Hi,
when the rubber mounting f pull rod are damaged.
Question:
What are the Symptoms?
Regards
Is this the same for an BMW X5 M50d e71?
Does an E39 have a similar set up? The thrust arm does look a bit familiar. 👀
this is Virtually identical to the E39.
My BMW five series 2008 my front wobbles when I go over 30 to 40 miles an hour could it be this upper control arm?
is that called the upper or lower, i get differing opinions? i thought it is the lower control arm
Great tutorial! very well explained. I think I can do this on my E66 750LI
Excellent video, thank you very much