I can verify the thrust arm can be removed without pulling the axle nut for added clearance. It just takes full lock on the steering and some wiggling out at the correct angle to clear the boot. Either way thanks guys for uploading f15 content. It is very appreciated. Love ordering parts from you all. Great customer service.
Yes was going to say I've done many without removing axles. The arms need to be dropped towards the ground and the ball joint is pushed out simultaneously
@@iamauser2198 My car sits about one inch higher after changing lower control arms and wishbone. I have not tighten the bolts yet, and the car is fully resting on the wheels. How is that possible?
I agree, just did it on my 2013 x5 xdrivei 100% just need to have good jackstands and a solid jack on concrete and turn the wheel all the way to pull out the lower front (the big dog bone one)
I just did this entire job today. Followed Garret’s instructions to the T. Two things: 1) this job is a bitch with NE vehicles. I had to purchase a heavy-duty 1/2” impact driver to remove a few frozen bolts; 2) he doesn’t give the torque specs for the sway-bar links. I just tightened as far as they would go. You’ll need every tool he recommends, I was using everything. It took me five hours, but I’m a novice and didn’t use a lift. This did get rid of the annoying clunking sound in my E70. I made sure to apply anti-seize grease to all new bolts. I sourced all parts from FCPEuro and went with Meyle if available. Noticeable difference in tightness of joints between Meyle and OE (Lemförder). Steering became noticeably tighter and more accurate after completing job. All parts cost me less than $600 (including tools that I will reuse). I never got a quote for the entire job, but Mavis Discount Tire quoted me $500 in labor to replace just the lower thrust arms. And the parts have a lifetime warranty from FCPEuro. My car had 90k miles on it, so I’ll probably change these out again around the 160-180k milestone, if I still have the car (I hope). Happy wrenching
This is the stuff that keeps us motivated Daniel - love hearing your perseverance , success, and ultimately saving money and having pride in the work and your car. Thanks for the update and hope we can help on your next project as well!
Stupid question, but on the lift, how do you put the suspension at ride height while having room to actually get in there with a torque wrench? Either transmission jack under wheel or lower down to ramps is what I'm thinking but just curious what is done by the pros.
Can. That nut be reused for that front control arm. Also, thanks a lot for these videos.It's obvious you really know your stuff And you explain everything very well.I appreciate it
Are F16 X6 and X6M F86 front control arms geometrically the same, and the only thing that's makes them different are the levels of stiffness/comfort in the bushings?
SO! I tried to find what was making the clunk. I checked all the control arms on both sides, the steering links, the strut rods. Nothing seemed loose. I lubed the stabilizer bar bushings. I even tightened the hood. I heard the hood can be loose and cause a noise,,, nope.
My daughter has a 2017 X5. The car has a clunk coming from the front left side. It isn't a click but more of a clunk when driving over small bumps in the road. I know it's difficult diagnose these issues, but which joint is most likely causing this? I am about ready to get under the car and start looking. Also how bad is it to reuse the 27mm 12 point nuts? How about using a propane torch to warm,,,, not to hot,,, the housing a bit?
For final torgues. What is the right height size when the car is on the jack? I assume the car should be with the wheels on the ground? Or what ? Please let me know
What do you do if the sleeve comes out with the thrust arm? I'm having to hit this way to hard...one side came off easily just as your and the other I'm mushrooming the stud.
I heard you say you weren't going to torque down the lower control arms until you had it at ride height. Is this referring to your measuring of the top control arm once it was free? If you are only changing the lower control arms, would you torque them down once they both were changed out? Great video - just ordered 4 front control arms~
Awesome job. Very complex. Can you place a jack stand against control arm or wishbone? If not, apart from the jacking point, where would you place a jack stand behind the front wheel. Thanks
I just replaced the left sway bar link,,,,,, and the clunk is gone....🤪 The bottom joint was bad. It is very hard to tell they are bad when on the car.
Is the bolt or nut for the thrust arm to subframe bushing, the bushing where the strut meets the wishbone, or wishbone to subframe reusable or do I need new?
A reputable BMW shop says my Thrust Arm Bushings are 'leaking' on front & back arms and quoted me $788 (2 new Radius Thrust Arms ($225 for front & back) plus $336 labor (2.10 hours) + tax (total is around $825). I am not getting any 'symptoms' that these control arms/bushing needs replacing (example: I have no noises or changes in the steering & handling / no clunking noises or unresponsive steering / no irregular tire wear). QUESTION: How do I know if they are being truthful that I need these parts replaced, if I do not see any of these symptom? I have a 2013 X5 'Diesel' with low 47,000 miles on it. I just want to make sure I am not being screwed! Any good input on this would be appreciated!
Great video. Question: I bought front lower arms ( rearward and forward ) from FCP euro and had my mechanic replaced them for my x5 2018. My car mpg dropped drastically ( local). Do you think I need to get alignment performed after replacement of these suspension parts ? Garth, I Will appreciate your input . Thanks
A bad wheel alignment is very unlikely to cause a drastic difference in MPG. Generally its always best practice to do a wheel alignment after any suspension component has been replaced. A major one would be the tie rods. However if the car still drives straight with the steering wheel straight just like before. Probably unnecessary. A major change in MPG could be related to a vacuum leak or failing emission component related to the engine or turbo.
@fcpeuro, thanks for all your great videos, I own two fairly new BMWs and really have use of them. Couldn't you just replace the bushings on the lower front control arms? It seems that in most cases it is the bushing to the chassis that are giving up. I see you sell these separate much cheaper. Just taking out that bolt, and replacing the bushing on the arm there underneath should reduce the hard work getting the arm off the knuckle or what it is called close to the wheel?
As someone who tried the cheap way and press a replacement bushing in. It's cheaper and less tine consuming to replace the arm. Especially if it's old and a little corrosion forms between the steel bushing case and arm. Pia
Hi guys , please I recently changed my lower arms and now my car always drifts to the right while driving. Checked the alignment and it’s intact but my computer tells me the steering is not aligned, any recommendations?
Hi Edidiong, you may want to consider taking the vehicle to get re-aligned if possible and go from there. Another thing to consider is that the bushings in the arms have been torqued at ride height during installation, so you can rule out any potential binding in the suspension.
Hello, they are linked in the video description. They will also be linked for you here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126864821kt?+f15&+control+arm+diy
Hi, I have 2016 BMW X5 35i x drive M package and I’m hearing a clunking sound from the front left going slow over little bumps, I can hear it more at night, can I ask what you think it might be. Thank you.
Was watching this as I was considering buying a used 2018 X5 but after watching this video I highly doibt it now. BMW has made this car more complicated than it has to. For example having to take off the axcel nut and having to punch the axcel to be able to remove the tension strut, then there's the "special " nuts which are 12 point or something rather than using regular sized nuts not to mention needing an allen and wrench together to remove and arm. Talk about unneeded work, come on BMW, why overcomplicate things!
Meh, the suspension feels as "complicated" as my 2004 X3, which is not very complicated. This front suspension is just as complicated as the one on my 1989 Honda Civic (double wishbone suspension). 12 point nuts and bolts aren't that special either, especially if you have any experience working on German cars. For all of my talk of all of the "special" tools I have for my BMWs, it really isn't all the many than the "special" tools I own because of any other car brand.
I can verify the thrust arm can be removed without pulling the axle nut for added clearance. It just takes full lock on the steering and some wiggling out at the correct angle to clear the boot. Either way thanks guys for uploading f15 content. It is very appreciated. Love ordering parts from you all. Great customer service.
Yes was going to say I've done many without removing axles. The arms need to be dropped towards the ground and the ball joint is pushed out simultaneously
I can also verify that the thrust arms can be removed at full steering lock. No need to remove the axel from the knuckle. My car is an 2014 xdrive35d.
@@iamauser2198 My car sits about one inch higher after changing lower control arms and wishbone. I have not tighten the bolts yet, and the car is fully resting on the wheels. How is that possible?
Probably just need to move the car back and forth to let the suspension settle.
I agree, just did it on my 2013 x5 xdrivei 100% just need to have good jackstands and a solid jack on concrete and turn the wheel all the way to pull out the lower front (the big dog bone one)
I just did this entire job today. Followed Garret’s instructions to the T. Two things: 1) this job is a bitch with NE vehicles. I had to purchase a heavy-duty 1/2” impact driver to remove a few frozen bolts; 2) he doesn’t give the torque specs for the sway-bar links. I just tightened as far as they would go.
You’ll need every tool he recommends, I was using everything. It took me five hours, but I’m a novice and didn’t use a lift. This did get rid of the annoying clunking sound in my E70. I made sure to apply anti-seize grease to all new bolts.
I sourced all parts from FCPEuro and went with Meyle if available. Noticeable difference in tightness of joints between Meyle and OE (Lemförder). Steering became noticeably tighter and more accurate after completing job. All parts cost me less than $600 (including tools that I will reuse). I never got a quote for the entire job, but Mavis Discount Tire quoted me $500 in labor to replace just the lower thrust arms. And the parts have a lifetime warranty from FCPEuro. My car had 90k miles on it, so I’ll probably change these out again around the 160-180k milestone, if I still have the car (I hope).
Happy wrenching
This is the stuff that keeps us motivated Daniel - love hearing your perseverance , success, and ultimately saving money and having pride in the work and your car. Thanks for the update and hope we can help on your next project as well!
Damn you guys are really pumping out the f15 videos out! I love it! Any plans to do the rear wheel bearings?
Stupid question, but on the lift, how do you put the suspension at ride height while having room to actually get in there with a torque wrench? Either transmission jack under wheel or lower down to ramps is what I'm thinking but just curious what is done by the pros.
Great video Garth. You make it look so easy, but I know it isn't. Put this one in the F15 library folder. Now waiting on the next one. Thanks
You got the best video. I just purchased the parts on your companies site. Thank you and much love and respect.
I thought it would be harder, but as you said, very straight forward.
Can.
That nut be reused for that front control arm. Also, thanks a lot for these videos.It's obvious you really know your stuff And you explain everything very well.I appreciate it
Are F16 X6 and X6M F86 front control arms geometrically the same, and the only thing that's makes them different are the levels of stiffness/comfort in the bushings?
SO! I tried to find what was making the clunk. I checked all the control arms on both sides, the steering links, the strut rods. Nothing seemed loose. I lubed the stabilizer bar bushings. I even tightened the hood. I heard the hood can be loose and cause a noise,,, nope.
My daughter has a 2017 X5. The car has a clunk coming from the front left side. It isn't a click but more of a clunk when driving over small bumps in the road. I know it's difficult diagnose these issues, but which joint is most likely causing this? I am about ready to get under the car and start looking.
Also how bad is it to reuse the 27mm 12 point nuts?
How about using a propane torch to warm,,,, not to hot,,, the housing a bit?
For final torgues. What is the right height size when the car is on the jack? I assume the car should be with the wheels on the ground? Or what ? Please let me know
Brilliantly showing!!!.
Thanks for a great video! Is it possible to do this job without pushing the axel back if you're only changing the lower control arms?
A year late but I just moved the steering wheel to manipulate it and make enough room without removing axle nut.
What did he say on minute 26:29 right before he says take two??
How did you do left side /passwenger side (uk), as i dont have space because of Ecu Box and i dont knlw how to remove ecu box
Man, I really regret not buy a BMW. It must be great to have such an easily serviceable vehicle.
thanks
What do you do if the sleeve comes out with the thrust arm? I'm having to hit this way to hard...one side came off easily just as your and the other I'm mushrooming the stud.
I heard you say you weren't going to torque down the lower control arms until you had it at ride height. Is this referring to your measuring of the top control arm once it was free? If you are only changing the lower control arms, would you torque them down once they both were changed out? Great video - just ordered 4 front control arms~
When yo start doing it because you've seen this guy doing it so easy and you end up happy that you managed put it back together and go to a service😢
Golden 👍👍!
Awesome job. Very complex. Can you place a jack stand against control arm or wishbone? If not, apart from the jacking point, where would you place a jack stand behind the front wheel. Thanks
I just replaced the left sway bar link,,,,,, and the clunk is gone....🤪 The bottom joint was bad. It is very hard to tell they are bad when on the car.
How did he compress the shock to place the lower back in place so easily
💪💪
Is the bolt or nut for the thrust arm to subframe bushing, the bushing where the strut meets the wishbone, or wishbone to subframe reusable or do I need new?
A reputable BMW shop says my Thrust Arm Bushings are 'leaking' on front & back arms and quoted me $788 (2 new Radius Thrust Arms ($225 for front & back) plus $336 labor (2.10 hours) + tax (total is around $825). I am not getting any 'symptoms' that these control arms/bushing needs replacing (example: I have no noises or changes in the steering & handling / no clunking noises or unresponsive steering / no irregular tire wear).
QUESTION: How do I know if they are being truthful that I need these parts replaced, if I do not see any of these symptom? I have a 2013 X5 'Diesel' with low 47,000 miles on it. I just want to make sure I am not being screwed! Any good input on this would be appreciated!
If they are leaking, they will have wetness and likely be stained a dark brown. If that is they case, they need to be changed.
What if I only have to replace the rearward front lower control arm?
I'm about to upgrade my F86 to KWs, I wouldn't mine upgrading all my bushings and engine mounts together.
Great video.
Question: I bought front lower arms ( rearward and forward ) from FCP euro and had my mechanic replaced them for my x5 2018.
My car mpg dropped drastically ( local).
Do you think I need to get alignment performed after replacement of these suspension parts ?
Garth, I Will appreciate your input . Thanks
A bad wheel alignment is very unlikely to cause a drastic difference in MPG. Generally its always best practice to do a wheel alignment after any suspension component has been replaced. A major one would be the tie rods. However if the car still drives straight with the steering wheel straight just like before. Probably unnecessary. A major change in MPG could be related to a vacuum leak or failing emission component related to the engine or turbo.
@fcpeuro, thanks for all your great videos, I own two fairly new BMWs and really have use of them. Couldn't you just replace the bushings on the lower front control arms? It seems that in most cases it is the bushing to the chassis that are giving up. I see you sell these separate much cheaper. Just taking out that bolt, and replacing the bushing on the arm there underneath should reduce the hard work getting the arm off the knuckle or what it is called close to the wheel?
As someone who tried the cheap way and press a replacement bushing in. It's cheaper and less tine consuming to replace the arm. Especially if it's old and a little corrosion forms between the steel bushing case and arm. Pia
Hi guys , please I recently changed my lower arms and now my car always drifts to the right while driving. Checked the alignment and it’s intact but my computer tells me the steering is not aligned, any recommendations?
Hi Edidiong, you may want to consider taking the vehicle to get re-aligned if possible and go from there. Another thing to consider is that the bushings in the arms have been torqued at ride height during installation, so you can rule out any potential binding in the suspension.
Can you share with me the BMW X5 E70 2011 links to the complete control arms?
Thanking you in advance
Hello, they are linked in the video description. They will also be linked for you here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126864821kt?+f15&+control+arm+diy
Its the same with e70
You didn't mention the torque for the sway bar links. Is threre a torquefor these?
Hi Shel, sorry we missed that, it is actually in our strut replacement DIY! The torque spec is 100NM for the end links.
@@fcpeuro Thanks Very Much!
@@fcpeuro I was looking for the same thing...good I looked here. Hehe
What are the torque specs for the end links?
Is anyone else cringing watching him slam the impact trigger on screws that ought to be removed with hand tools?
Hello good day, can we please get a video for the back suspension so I can order it on the site. Thank you
Added to the queue!
Fcpeuro guy messaged me that delphi is oem and 1 of the best control arms for bmw. I do not think so..
Hi, I have 2016 BMW X5 35i x drive M package and I’m hearing a clunking sound from the front left going slow over little bumps, I can hear it more at night, can I ask what you think it might be. Thank you.
My 2014 does the same. Shop told me it was a lower control arm. Something else about hydraulic fluid. $2400 for parts and labor on both sides
That’s how I knew my parts were bad. Clunking and creaking at low speed.
Could be the strut pad on top of the housing. Easy to replace, I’d look there first.
@@User78813 you can buy the part on FCP and do it yourself and save $2200 that’s just one side.
@@User78813 it was the lower control arm, had it done by a bmw technician friend of mind, the ball joint was lose.
What do you mean in "needs to be torqued at the right height"?
Hello, the idea is to torque everything at ride height, so no bushings or anything tears once the weight of the vehicle is let down on the components.
What’s the preload on the lower control arms I don’t see any marks
Does this job require an alignment afterwards?
Hi David, you will certainly want to get one done once you have completed this DIY.
You don't show the hole hassle man
Why bmw keep design stupid front arm control this way. This design is not lasting
Was watching this as I was considering buying a used 2018 X5 but after watching this video I highly doibt it now. BMW has made this car more complicated than it has to. For example having to take off the axcel nut and having to punch the axcel to be able to remove the tension strut, then there's the "special " nuts which are 12 point or something rather than using regular sized nuts not to mention needing an allen and wrench together to remove and arm. Talk about unneeded work, come on BMW, why overcomplicate things!
Typical German over-engineering especially for "The Ultimate Driving Machine".
This isn't something new, especially with the 12pt socket. It's been like that
Owning a bmw means owning a bunch of tools you only use once. Part of the ownership experience lol
Owning old “new” bmws are a recipe for a lot of frustration. This is coming from a bmw owner lol
Meh, the suspension feels as "complicated" as my 2004 X3, which is not very complicated. This front suspension is just as complicated as the one on my 1989 Honda Civic (double wishbone suspension). 12 point nuts and bolts aren't that special either, especially if you have any experience working on German cars. For all of my talk of all of the "special" tools I have for my BMWs, it really isn't all the many than the "special" tools I own because of any other car brand.
TIS doesn't say you have to push the axle in at all
How much torque need the sway bar link?
56NM!
@@fcpeuro ista says 100Nm on Carrier/Stabilizer front and 56NM for Stabilizer support. So the real torque are 100Nm. Im confused.