Minor Upgrades Create Crazy Power on a Junkyard 5.3L Vortec - Engine Power S7, E10
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 тра 2024
- We’re starting with a high-mileage 5.3L Vortec that we got on the cheap. Our goal: make as much horsepower as we can, spending the least money possible.
00:00 - Intro
02:44 - Engine Teardown
06:27 - Engine Balancing Tech
08:50 - Block Cleanup & Rebuild
17:14 - Dyno Pulls
Check out the PowerNation store for shirts, hats, and more: pntv.us/lnk_f8a2aba5
Want to watch POWERNATION completely ad-free? Subscribe at the link below and receive the first month for just 99 cents:
pntv.us/lnk_3d0d9e0c
Follow POWERNATION Everywhere:
www.powernationtv.com
/ powernationtv
/ powernationtv
PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:
Duralast: Duralast Engine Sensors
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_16272_5eed08b6d844d
Forney Industries: Forney Industries Abrasives
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_16275_5eed0a11a3984
Holley: Holley Dual Plane Intake - LS
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_16274_5eed09dadf3e8
Permatex: Permatex Blue Threadlocker
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_16273_5eed09805ba12
RockAuto.com: RockAuto.com - wholesale parts tip
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_16276_5eed0ab9a4c71
Matco Tools: MATCO Tools are the Official Tool Supplier to PowerNation
The Industrial Depot: Tools, Hardware, Shop Supplies - Авто та транспорт
The most unrealistic part of this is none of those header bolts breaking when you took them off with an impact lol
Less chance of breaking a bolt using an impact. I never break bolts using an impact only using wrenches.
The impact factor can break them loose, I agree it's less likely to break. Doesn't mean you should full bore it
@@precisioncoatings5019 I always break loose by hand and if it feels good I'll zip it. But too many cast iron head fords to just send it w my impact.
I always tighten the bolts a tad before loosening them, less stripping snapping like that, idk why but it works lol
"All of the factory harnessclips are easy to remove" right as they show footage of his bloody knuckles 😂
Haha definitely
You aren't working on anything unless you bleed. That's where the saying blood and sweat went into it.
@@philthelawnman youre stupid if you think you have to bust your knuckles working on things
Digging the colour choice, boys. I spent 3 solid years working on nothing but Detroits. Brings back a few memories and a few cuss words.
I was hoping someone else noticed. I love that color. And of course nothing beats the sound of a Detroit 😎
Well in your cost rundown you forgot a few things that affected the outcome.
# 1 Carb, # 2 headers, #3 Plug Wires, #4 Electric Water Pump, # 5 All the new sensors, # 6 Cost of Hot Tanking engine block twice, #7 MSD Ign. module.
I see them doing this on all their builds.
Don’t forget every special tool that was required. Like an engine hoist, a shop to work in, a drill, the honing equipment, the property the shop was built on, the plumbing and electrical to operate the shop, land taxes, rent, 2 sets of hands, the budget required to get the engine out of the junkyard for example a truck or flatbed, etc.
For someone that might own a car and/or lives in an apartment would be having to borrow a truck to haul an engine from the junkyard. In a normal situation they would also have to do all the engine work by there self. The title should read “If you already own a fully functional shop with every tool needed to clean journals and wash engine blocks at 150 degrees, with an engine hoist, a dyno, along with another ASE Master Certified Mechanic to help you, here’s how you can build a junkyard engine for $500”
I think they were running down the long block cost. None of that would be including in a typical longblock price
Dam I forgot a few things then 😥
Most car guys have many of those tools in the garage
@@Crodgers88yeah no they don’t 😂
“The clips are easy to remove” notice his knuckles are busted and bleeding😂
I said the same thing... immediate flashback to myself changing coil packs on my hemi "this will be easy" hour later and blood leaking from 2 fingers later... it was done. Hardest part was disconnecting those plugs.
6
Lol
Thats why we call a monkey wrench a nuckle buster
I noticed they hired a new guy. Has any seen Mike Galley lately?
Do it again with a torque wrench, a toolbox, and some sandpaper.
Lol me current in an apartment complex parking lot
ahem emery cloth. it'll be FINE
And duct tape
sandpaper? That costs money, asphalt is free
@@jacobboyle1678 dude same. Ambitions of an ls swapped s10 with no garage in an apartment with only a little craftsman toolbox and a solder gun.
Anyone one remember the old Hot Rod Tv show or The Old Horsepower show? Those were the good days.
They forgot to say that you have to have 15 pens in your shirt pocket in order to do this build correctly
Ya he not even using a pocket protector. Did someone tell Pay that made him look more professional?
thats step 1
💀
😁
@@ActivityPhoto Damn right pal! A pocket protector is definitely on any real professional man's list of "must haves" and it can't be substituted.
never open up a junkyard LS. You let out the magic.
nothingaboutme I see you a fellow fan of Sloppy Mechanics page and UA-cam channel.
Ahh yes fellow slops
I put I'm a 5.3 out of the junk yard with about 153000 so i was told. Stabbed it in my truck with with only replacing water pump and thermostat and hoses plugs and it's been running strong for a year now.
I was thinking the same thing, but didn't know how to say it lol. The 5.3 in my jeep was pulled out of a silverado and put in my jeep in a single weekend.
ViceGripGarage?
"Get big power gains on a low cost junkyard ls. All you need are these highly specialized machines that all cost 3 to 10 grand a piece and replace everything that makes getting a junkyard ls appealing"
Glad someone pointed that out. It may have been cheap for them, but add the prices of getting these things done, and the price skyrockets.
I wouldn't mind seeing the price, after all the adds that got added as well, they probably made money building this engine.
I shouldn't complain I suppose, it was pretty informative to someone who knows squat about this type of thing, which is me.
It’s still cool. Someone might buy a bunch of these for race engines and hand their friends a few.
it's an LS.. they went overboard with all the cleaning and touch up and such. You have to realize that this is a show and have to make the engine presentable. When they took it apart, all they had to do was replace the worn out parts and slap the entire thing back together again. They didn't even need to repaint it.
@@markcahoon2534 every machine they used you could do the same work by hand, granted its alot of hours but just saying if you wanted to you could. As for the basic stuff like the ball hone anyone who you take on a job like this would have those basic tools.
Sloppy mechanics does bigger power with stock internals and a cheap turbo. 500-800hp with less than $2k with engine.
I've built many junkyard found engines by hand using nothing but a well calibrated torque wrench, good quality bearings and piston rings, new pumps/gaskets, some Plastigage, and some common sense. You don't necessarily need all of these machine shop tools to rebuild a stock engine, you just need to know what you're doing. For instance, I built a B18B1 (1.8L DOHC non-VTEC Honda engine) and after break-in it put down 409 whp on an eBay GT3582R turbo.
This is all good stuff. When I went to Diesel/Auto school back in 1989 to '91 we were a select few who knew these sorts of things about engines. You are still missing some details but for the most part this makes much of what used to be a specialty and took a long time to learn more common knowledge. Plus you get tens of thousands of know it alls commenting on everything you do and say!
Plus ignition system, plus carburetor, plus headers, plus cylinder head machining, plus fluids, plus gaskets, plus sensors,etc, etc,
Fr tho😂😔
Eh they are minor
Thank you.....
plus shipping for the parts, all the special tools they used.
Not to mention the machine shop to clean the gunk and put allllll the parts together…
pshh, this is fake. not 1 exhaust manifold bolt broke during disassembly.
Took the words right out of my mouth.
They only break if you pull the manifolds in the car. Maximum P.I.T.A. results.
@@melirishjr.4602 bull they break on their own anytime I've replaced over 1000 so far in my career since I've been doing 4.8 5.3 6.0 have to mig weld a nut onto most when they break flush
@@rustedratchetgarage6788 that engine hasn't seen enough miles before they took them out, or it's not from the north where every bolt you touch breaks
@@user-cs3zs6jn1d, no way that's a "rust belt" engine with over 200k. Not one bolt broke
Great show as usual. Love the LS series, probably the best engine that has ever come out of GM. I would keep the injection (I did!) The GM air/fuel algorithms are spot on even for big valvetrain or forced induction. A new set of injectors and a tune don't cost that much more than the carb setup. And bottles are for babies anyway!
No. This is horrible advice. The factory G.M. tune isn't spot on at ALL for big cams, and added forced induction.
Add a cam, intake, and exhaust on an LS, and if you don't get it retuned, you're throwing away a bunch of power.
Love the ring squaring tool. Never heard of one but is a must have. I’m a perfectionist when building anything and it would make it so much easier.
Do it by hand and use the back end of a caliper to see that it is square.
Use an upside down piston with the second ring on it.
An old machinist told me when you're wanting to get a flat surface with sandpaper like he was doing with the oil pump gear you want to do a figure eight and it makes pressure even on all the sides so it comes out flatter
I was a Machinist and we also, always used a "Figure 8" motion.
I completely agree with the ol figure 8 ! Old feller taught me that way long time ago
I follow somewhat of a Pentagram Pattern and make it Hella-smooth !
I'm 35 now and you're correct ! I build motorcycles by hand and the only way to be precise by hand is to start out precise. And you rotate the part and a x pattern works. Yea these guys seem a little ameture to me too.
TIMEtoRIDE900 lmfao
"This is a low-buck, budget build" ***cuts to scenes using $100k of specialized engine rebuilding tools and machinery***
The dyno and the engine washer? Just use a butt dyno and a power washer... i just saved you $100k
Rebuild yours using duct tape and spit then post 📫 a video of how that went...
Send the block off to the machine shop. It doesn't cost that much to get the block checked and decked, or to get the crank journals polished.
Its a machine shop, and fyi its minimum new parts used...
He used square tubing as a flat edge to sand the cylinder head surface. You dont much more low buck than that!
Dam Mike!!!! Haven't seen y'all since horsepower tv. Good to see y'all still going!!!! I used to watch y'all every Saturday and Sunday on spike tv. Keep it going brotha!!!
Use very little silicone or it will squeeze out clog oil pump. Also put a little extra in corners
I have a LM4 version of this engine. ( All alumium) in my Envoy XL. The oil pump was going bad so I replaced it with a Melling unit. So far hitting 360,000 miles and still running.
i have a lm4 i pulled out of an envoy. It had 145000 miles on it and still had the crosshatch in the cylinders. All of the bearings were in great shape.
If yours is 2wd ditch the envoy pan they have a starvation issue with oil when taking off fast
These guys remind me of the guy selling cookware in the back of Walmart.
I don't get it but it sounds funny. They remind me of the guys selling Baseball cards on home shopping channels, Gem Mint 10!!!!!
Idk what you guys are talking about, but they remind me of a couple guys I used to watch on Sunday mornings tearing engines down and rebuilding them and spending a shitload of money doing so, and not to mention advertising for Matco
Gotta make the finger tent with your hands when speaking.
Cool build, would rather see the build done with stock intake and FI setup tuned.
i had 2001 suburban 4x4 with 236,000 miles that ran great. when i changed the plugs there were no electrodes left on them and i only had a slight flutter on cold start up, so i can attest to those strong coil packs! great engines for sure. unfortunately someone wanted my truck so it was stolen but, at least they got a smooth running truck!
If by "ring squaring tool" you meant "old bare piston" then yes I use one of those
right lol
I just Sharpied "ring squaring tool" on my old bare piston I use on 5.3's. I liked your comment, stole the joke!
Haha so true. I just use a square set to one inch.
No kidding. When you're half assing a ring job, you always want to push the ring way down low in the cylinder. That way your minimum gap is measured at the tightest point of the cylinder.
For those that haven't done the math, every .001" of cylinder wear opens up the ring gap .00314" (3.14 thou").
so, if you're going to spray a junkyard engine with that crap, don't set your minimum gap up top where the wear is greatest.
Somewhat on the subject of ring gap. I was curious, I didn't see it being mentioned or maybe I missed it ? But was there a ring ridge at the top of the cylinders. I would think there would have to be a some kind of ridge at 100k plus mile ?
Also, thank you for your math equating what cylinder Wear equates to piston ring gap. Interesting and good to know.
I'd like to see this retested with the fuel injection and a tune. I feel like not many people buying junkyard ls stuff are going to do a carb swap.
I agree. I see no reason they can't do both. Doesn't take that much time and they have the parts they took off.
Plus, what they are putting it into, a carb will be illegal
Old school guys with old school cars prefer cabs.
Squid Usn yeah but carbs are objectively worse than fuel injection
@@kam3l749 I can work on a carb on the side or the road, can't do that with FI unless its a fuse or something
Its extremely important to keep your vehicle and engine clean, and keeping your fluids checked and changed is the main reason for the least amount of damage or issues
I got a 5.3 450xxx never changed the oil in the year I had it, the dude I got it from just did what I do...add a quart every 3 to 4 months and every time I drive it I'm balls to the wall, Every day, hour long trips. On top of all that doesn't smoke even when I'm bouncing it off the red line, just a slow rear main seal leak 5.3 don't need those kinds of things lol
@@garityaun1098 That's just stupidity... 🙄
Amazing! This video was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing guys!
Too bad you didn't get a baseline before tear-down. Would be interesting to know what the difference is.
@1:08
Stock 5.3L makes 330 hp
@@pbear216 depends on the year but if its 99 it makes around 275 then 00-03 285 and 04-06 295
@@SkilledAvalanche correct, and I should note that the 07-14 only made 330 when running on E85. Pump gas only made 300
@pbear216 wow. Someone that takes time to go back and make something more clear? Is this even the internet? Lol thanks man I was wondering how the hell I got screwed out of 30 hp
They left out at least 50% of the cost. I’m pulling my 250k mileage 5.3 from my Silverado to put into my 67’ Biscayne. I’ll probably upgrade it to a 5.4 327 (as long as it’s not dead lol) but finding a budget build is hard. They’re all like this video. I’d like to see them do a true budget build without crazy tools. Just power wash it and change some fluids.
Fuzzy dice projects does that stuff with sbc and bbc
Umm not really. Most guys get a bad case of While-I'm-In-There-itis and replace/blueprint everything. They reused the rings, pistons, headbolts, only adding cam/springs/intake/carb/nitrous. EVERYTHING for my 67 Firebird swap has totaled $1600 inc fuel system ($200 engine). So far I'm at $700 for the complete turbo bits - turbo, v-bands, couplers, piping, wastegate, IC.
@@hydrocarbon8272 where’d you get the turbo parts from?
you have to add this is way way way pre COVID prices was that cheap & that they have a million dollars worth of tools we don't have 😭😂🤔
It already is a 326 ci/in engine. Find an used set of 5.7 pistons at a machine shop and bore that 5.3 out to 5.7 (350ci), that's all you need, the crank and rods are the same as the Corvette pieces.
I just yanked my 320K km 5.3 out of my Sierra - Other than VERY minor oil staining, the inside is totally clean. Bearings look like they almost just came out of the package. Bought from the original owner 5 years ago (so I know it's never been tampered with). DOD lifters were getting a bit janky, but still worked fine (large reason for my pulling it down was to do the delete). I've always done full synthetic changes at around 7000km. Point is, a well maintained engine like this CAN and WILL last!
I watched another engine you started with 350ish hp and you put that nitrice on it and got that 650 hp. Now you showed another application and you sharing the Price's is really nice.
Just shows how well that vortec engine breaths with the heads and port design
You usually have to replace the valve springs and rockers with LS1. The 5.3 is a truck engine so the valve springs float at 5,500 RPM. It's designed that way. That's why the engines don't break or wear out. Well that's what Summit told me what I had to do for a cam change or it wouldn't work. That stuff is used so it's cheap as hell.
@@Mike383HK valve spring upgrade is necessary with about any ls engine. Rocker arms are same on ls1 ls6 ls2 5.3 4.8 6.0 ect... ls2,ls6, ls3 do have upgraded valve springs that can be used with some of the smaller aftermarket camshafts. Good budget upgrade on truck ls engines. Rocker arms are good to go as are. Trunion bearing upgrade is good idea for large cams & lots of rpms.
Corvette 327cid (5.3) was making 375 horses bone stock 50 years ago with very pedestrian double hump heads. These dufuses wimped out on the Cam. Simple valve springs and agressive cam would have gotten them into the middle 400's. .. No nitrous needed.
Vortec fast - burn heads are decent.
@@wannabeetiger will the vortec fast burn 350 5.7 work on a small block 400?....from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY AND stop this foolishness ❤
What a nice paintjob, please more teardown - junkyard videos love those...
Big fan of yours from Germany
I regularly went 7k-15k on my oil changes (04 5.3 200k, mix of budget brand conventional and syns for every change) when we finally got the oil pan off at 190k my dad had to do a double take everything was fresh honey colored with no burning or sludge...
When you have to add 2 quarts a week that doesn't really suprize me. 😋
Cool story but its total BS.
Great video guys, one of you looks old enough to remember when you didn’t have a badass sponsored machine shop when small block Chevy cost $1 per HP!
This was a good episode to watch. I like what they had done with their engine. Of course there are many ways that we can all choose to build and run our engines based on our desires. With this in mind, we don't have to follow their every step, but we can pull some ideas from this episode to help us choose what we can do with our builds.
I had bought a running 2001 Suburban 1500 with 226,000+ miles on the Odometer back in April for $1000.00 with the intention of using the engine and parts for my '68 C10, or for my '82 Monte Carlo. I drove the 'Burban 2 hours home with no issues. The Suburban had came with the 5.3 LM7 engine as well. All I had to do to it was tighten 3 of the 8 spark plugs, they were loose enough to remove by hand! Here it is 4 months later and I'm still daily driving my Suburban. Of course I eventually had to replace the fuel pump because the old noisy one had finally quit working. To add, 4wd still works too.
Gonna dump an LM7 in a gen 4 v6 camaro
I don’t know much about performance building and tuning anymore,so I learned a lot from you guys, the dimples you drilled and finished to retain oil , really smart, so many common sense “ tricks “ well done
Nice job, but you can slow down the building, try actually showing what your doing, you could have made it a 4 video series. Don’t just run through it, you look like a autozone ad
There’s a lot of videos on UA-cam that show step-by-step
I wish I knew how to work on engines like you guys. Smart af
Only 21 years old and for a long time I was always interested in cars and all these different shows, and wishing I could do that. Here I am 7/5/20 I'll be a certified auto tech in 5 days and I have a spare motor and trans that I'm building and swapping into my car.
Good shit man, skys the limit
There is a hei retrofit front oil cover, with the edelbrock intake and msd ignition kit, you have a great 5.3
Congratulations : )
Damn, 2:38 into the tear down and already bleeding. And 4:38 , that my friends is why all LS engines have a check engine light for the knock sensor
best on a budget 5.3 rebuild video on youtube 👍🏻
Love you guys KEEP IT UP . GREAT WORK !!
Pulled a 5.3 out a suburban 317,*** yesterday getting brian tulley heads, cam lifters full rebuild going in a 65 ford fairlane wagon I'll keep y'all updated
Any updates?
Keep up with the receipts...let me know how "cheap" it is ...you're about to find out.
Should have kept fuel injection
I've never overhauled a 5.3. My expertise is on old small block chevys. I learned a lot on top of what I already learned by watching other 5.3 videos. And the Rock Auto commercial tells me these guys are for real. I'm almost ready to buy a salvage engine and take a shot.
If you can build an old small block you can do a LS easily, much simpler engine from the standpoint of gaskets and assembly procedures. Otherwise not much different.
Only difference is the fuel injection and the camshaft timing advancement,the rest is self explanible
That Ol' boys right shirt pocket had its work cut out for it.
I like how these guys are so amazed at what we've already been doing for 15 years. I am glad they caught up to the times. Better late than never. I still enjoy watching though.
these shows were all aired in like 2008.
This is like a 10 year old video.
Frigglebiscuit he’s got an iPhone 11 so I think it’s recent actually
@@901headbanger haha.. same thoughts :D
@@1slow5point0 The Iphone says otherwise lmao
Morning coffee and engine build, good sunday so far.
Annnnd... now to the garage. Perfection.
Haha 10-4, doing the same thing until the wife starts her honey do list.
david crouch just got back inside from putting my star headliner back into my truck. What a PITA
Honey do list. The bane of d.i.y. hotrodders everywhere.
@@brettspaulding5855 Heck.. it's the bane of everyone alive!
Holy shit!!... I wouldnt mind stealing the specs and building this engine myself. What a great bang for the buck. Great video gentlemen!
The ls engines are incredible. Right all
I wish I’d seen some of this stuff when I did my DOD delete on my LC9 two+ years ago at 143k miles. Great stuff. I used Comp Cams pushrods, Summit upgraded rocker arms and non DOD GM cam. Cost me about $1500 with Texas Speed delete kit, Summit for cam, LS3 Melling oil pump, Sac City Corvette timing cover alignment tool, flywheel holding tool and a few other parts.
Should have gotten the 4.8 they don't have that garbage and only and more power my 4.8 from a 2011 chevy has 305 factory hp and can be had much cheaper then the 5.3
"Easy to remove." 2:40 shows first blood taken 😂🤣
Really good engines, garden variety means it'll make your swap go fast.
That's awesome I work on detroit diesels for a living! I rebuild them with central power! Beautiful color indeed
As soon as I saw the green paint, my mind went to the old 53 and 71 series two-strokes. 🔥 Beautiful color for any engine. ❤️
I am totally impressed by your work!
The stance the dude took before he hits the nitrous. 😂
Getting The Grip Just Right!!.......Big Button!!
You could get the exact same results by just a cam swap and intake upgrade on a bone yard engine most of the other stuff they did was unnessassary
They didn’t even do anything else besides cleaning which if you want a long lasting engine, is necessary . All parts were stock besides the mild cam
Only other mod was oil pump and I can see that being important engines won't run long with out oil pressure
Cleaning is pretty necessary
Yeah, they could’ve just upgraded the cam and intake but it wouldn’t be much of a show if it was over in 5 minutes.
and how about the dupli-color green enamel 2000 paint ? Gotcha :))))
The one dudes pocket protector was fully stocked, that's how I knew he had proper experience.
WOW!!!! DIRT CHEAP PERFORMANCE!!!!! YOU ARE WITHIN MY BUDGET!!!!!! IT LOOKS LIKE SO MUCH FUN!!!!! THANKS FOR SHARING!!!!! YOU MADE MY NIGHT!!!!
This is why I love my 2001 Tahoe (LS). She is almost at 400,000. Once she hits that I want to rebuild her as you all did. I'm not going to run Nitro in her, but she as always taking care of me, so it will be time to take care of her. Yes I am a proud Chevy Man! I love my Chevy's. If there is anything other tips you can send, let me know. Again Thanks
V/r Bob
“When a junkyard en-“ *youtube ad* “gine makes big horse-“ *youtube ad* “power on the dy-“ *youtube ad* “nomometer, you know“ *youtube ad* “that...”
the internet is hard.
Get the Chrome Extension "AdBlock". I never see ads on UA-cam.
AMEN BROTHER!!!!!!!
Use Brave browser my friend.
AdBlocker Ultimate
At least the paint was free. Nobody would have paid for that color.
That's Detroit green, if you ever hear a buzzin dozen pulling a load up a grade on the governor you will never make fun of their color.
@@josephkordinak1591 Have you seen screaming Jimmy Video? If not it's great.
Hey I'm an old BUICK Nailhead guy, I respect that color or something close to it. So what color goes on a LS engine? Black? Chevy Red - Orange has to be reserved for Gen I, IMO - Sandy
@@sandyshoremann7524 I initially thought it was a Buick color... Until they said it was Detroit.
Forget about the paint! I am going pink!!😂😂
You mean you don’t just toss everything in the trash and get all new stuff! Love it, reminds me of my dad.
I bought my Silverado new back in 09 she has the 5.3 in her , After brake in I switched to mobile 1 full synthetic or now and then Valvoline 5 30 and a good filter and swap out the oil when the sensor tells me to change oil that's about 6k to 7k miles , I've had a few things that needed repair over the years but I'm still driving her she has now 183K miles and some change on her , She was 13 years old last November , And I have her spray oiled every fall to control rust , I was told that 5.3 makes 315 HP , She still runs great , thanks .
The low build budget was busted on the cost of the all the pens and pencils in that guys shirt pocket.
I had a 5.3L with 4:10 rear end gears in my 2000 Suburban. Man that thing was beast when it came to towing.
I have an lm7 with l59 flex fuel and lc9 oil pan in a Volvo 240 with 3.73 gears and spooled diff lol. Has a summit 8707 cam, pac 1219 springs, and Brian tooley pushrods and trunion kit, with 1" 7/8 headers, a trailblazer SS intake, and 92mm tb. She's a hoot!!
Hey man hit me up, would need some advice and follow your path am in a process of my rebuild LM7 5.3 to swap into my Volvo 245 1986. Could need you experience, aLOT!!!!
Love your show. Great details for the home DYI guys.
REALLY enjoy your odd ball builds like the various 6 bangers from the past.
Would enjoy to see you go further afield with the likes of a 4.3 vortec.
I love the Forney round disk they save you a ton of time and are a worth will investment in the long run.
I'd like to the Ford 300 inline 6 , with it's Heavy Duty exhaust manifold with either a Howell Fuel Injection setup of a Fi-Tech EFI setup, with roller rockers & hydraulic lifters, AND HEI distributor, that looks like a eternal engine with fuel injection drivability.
I'd love to see someone trick out an inline 6. I always heard about what a workhorse they are.
Like to see what numbers they can pull torque and/or horsepower.
We all know it'll never run down the drag strip but it'd make a Great stump puller !
they already did a Chevy 292... you might get the same torque with a few less HP with the "less revy" Ford
You'll get nothing and like it.
Pat is a master at his craft. That being said he knew those were the wrong jets. His comment about flirting with disaster was a sub.
Wow that's nice you guys giving me ideas for my 5.3 trailblazer
keep grinding bro... im coming in the elco game...ur vids def give alot of game
2 more pulls like that and they get a free windowed block with that budget build🤙
Lol nah not on a good old 5.3. Ring gap is the key, people are doing 8 and 9 second passes on these with stock bottom end. Chevy did something right with these engines.
@@Chevymonster203 THANK YOU. My man Richard Holdener put me wise to ring gap. Engines can take a lot more boost than folks think with the right ring gap.
I love ls haters building lc9 right now... Send it and laugh cause under 7000 and 800 hp its g2g ah no 250k lm7 (not the best) do it and last for years boost it to the 🌙
@@rhubarbpie2027 Very true, I know with the 5.3 and the 4.8 vortec engines they come with hypereutectic piston and too tight of a ring gap usually cause the ring lands to break. That's why you will hear guys looking for high mileage 5.3 because the rings are worn down and the gap has increased. Good for boost
Are you blind
Minor upgrades to a junkyard LS making crazy power.. Chapter one rebuild it. (somehow I was under the crazy impression we were just going to do some minor upgrades to it..)
That's why I use hand tools to take the engine apart and to put them together if you used a impact taking them apart you can't feel how the bolts come out and you may miss something important that you would want to fix before putting it back together.
That paint job is something special. Love the color.
Just ignore all the brand new coil packs, wires & ceramic boots.
And $1,000 carb.
And headers
Umm and msd
New cam shaft
What about the carb? oh they must have forgot about it....5,6,700 dollars.. clowns :)
This shows why the LS followed right along behind The SBC as the go to engine for everything. Stupid power to cost ratio.
Until of course, all existing LSes get bought up and destroyed. Though at least there are exponentially more trucks/suvs to rip these engines from than there are lightweight rwd rice burners *clears throat*corollagts*coughs*240sx*wheezes*miata to put them in.
@@FinalLuigi
I think it's cool that the import crowd is admitting that a American v8 engine is the best way to add huge power, keep it reliable and do it on a budget.
@@jamesearlcash7725 Only in a RWD vehicle, unless you want to invest way more effort into turning a FWD economy vehicle into RWD. And even if you happen to find a rare RWD japanese shitheap before they completely disappear at an alarming rate, you still need to get proper mounting kits, upgrade the suspension because the car was never designed to hold an engine that weighs more than half the car does above the front wheels (hell even the corvette has them behind the front wheels), you need to grab a working ECU, you need to find the proper transmission for the engine, upgrade the drivetrain to even support the engine, you're basically building a corvette with a Japanese emblem. At which point, why not just straight up buy a corvette?
@james avery also some impala ss I believe
@@FinalLuigi I suppose you dislike the Shelby Cobra too?
Awesome simply marvelous pay attention. Shade tree mechanics get that tip when you can
🙄 This episode was great till they said nitrous. Most guys, including me, aren't going to put NOS in their vehicle. Would've been better if they went turbo or supercharger.
Price was the main point of this episode. You'd probably see more people putting in nos before they spend money on supercharger or turbo.
tubo's and ANY supercharger will be 10X what NOS will run you for a power adder!
It's overkill but it's not a bad way to show the potential of what the engine can handle with minimal work and tuning
What do you expect from a guy with 40 somethings in his front pocket.🤣
"I saw some big numbers dude." Did you see Pat's face.
Great video with a bunch of good tips for the oil pump, etc.
My only argument is, you guys already had every part needed to keep the original EFI, but chose to buy a MSD ignition box, Intake manifold and carburetor… why?
This is a “junkyard build” where you guys wanted to keep costs low, and yet spent probably 1500$ on changing it to carbureted when you could have ran the efi for just the cost of credits to tune it, in the 100$ US range.
It would be infinitely more tunable and infinitely better driving experience on the street in any climate, temperature or elevation.
Otherwise, great video 🤘
Awesome segment gentlemen. Own an 06 Silv. w/200k plus.....never been to a mechanic but to replace alternator @ 11 years old. Its time and this is definitely the best bang. Any videos where the adder is a mild turbo?
Great video! Important technical content yet not patronizing nor overly complex. Excellent work guys and thank you!
How to turn a $500 junkyard engine into a $5,000 dyno dandy.
True dat!!!!😂
Lmao this. "After we reused everything" not including complete tear down, hone, tank, gasket, bearings, reassembly, new cam, aftermarket intake, carb, ignition controller, nitrous, etc. Silly ass video.
Don't forget the rebuilt heads!
$500 for a junkyard ??? where , not all junkyard have that price . and in Illinois the junkyard engine is very expensive , And if you are lucky , they give you the electric
harness , or they charge you extra for the electric harness ....
@@mcozpda3392 In my state they are all over the junkyard and not too many people pull them out. But I won't say what state i live in. And yes, they do go for around 500 bucks.
I wish these guys would do this budget upgrade to my 2004 Vortec engine
Wow 30,000 on ring gaps is huge! Factory specs are 19,000! Im running twin turbos on my 04 lq4 6.0. I did same thing, new rings n bearings, hand honed cylinders, valve job, new cam, cam bearings and valve springs too. So I opened my ring gaps to 28,000 on top and 26,000 second ring for turbo motor. I ran it this way for a year naturally aspirated no problems. Now I added and run it with twin turbos 10lbs boost, e85, sloppy Stage II cam 228/230, 585/585 lift, 112 lobe separation, 100 lbs injectors, terminator x, TBSS intake, turbo 400 trans in 72 nova. Runs super, very strong, reliable and no issues!!! Great fast street/strip car, very good street manners too.
Cam bearings are the most important, also one of the key fail points. lifters also.
What about the price of the ignition system not everyone has one of them laying around
That's at least $350 for a MSD 6LS box, add a few wiring adaptors and tax = $400 extra.
That was my thoughts
And the price for the carby
@@582motorsports8 bruh u can get a holley carb on offerup for cheap im talkin 50 bucks
@@582motorsports8 holley an edelbrock carbs can be found for 200$ or less .. hell i got 2 4 barrel edelbrocks sitting in my garage along with sets of heads , intake manifolds . performance parts aint rare or hard to find .. craigslist auto parts is a goldmine right now people are going broke due to this covid19 bullshit not being able to work they are selling engines , transmission , tools , welders ect for cheap
Best video out there ! about to make beast single cab daily
A buddy of mine found a cheap way to gain access to all of the high dollar shop equipment these guys have. He took an engine building class at the local jr. college. He was able to build his 70 GTO engine for a few grand, and learn much in the process.
They didn’t include the machine work they did in house.
Exactly
And the carb
DontBe StupidAnymore good catch
and the headers
400-800 carb, 400-600 headers. "machine work" as you call it is not exactly true. they polished the crank with cork ribbon only.. you can do the same with shoe string and brasso.
Dammit Man!! It's hard to beat these engines...especially for the price. We have trucks at work with over 150k miles, that still run strong. Granted they were just driven around the city and synthetic oil changed twice a year.
I change my oil 3 to 4 times a year but drive over 65 miles a day to work 07 silverado 191000 miles
As usual, another great show to keep us entertained.
However, there are a few things the rest of us in the real world have to cope with, like all of the stuff needed, in order to keep out vehicles not only running, but also actually driving down the road, like everything you removed from the top and front of the engine, those pesky things that also tend to rob some power.
So let me ask you to do another realistic, budget build. I just bought a 2010 GMC Sierra, 2wd, LWB, with a 5.3L and 72k miles on it. It is my DD work truck. What sort of bolt on and other mods can be done relatively easily and yes, you guessed it Budget Friendly, to allow it to perform a bit better and help it be a little easier on the wallet, when it comes to the fuel tank? I don't need to get from the hardware store to the job site in 4.9 seconds either.
The way I see it, if I were to allow it to perform a little better, I wouldn't need to press the accelerator pedal down as hard, nor as long in order to get the truck moving, etc.
Thank God my new house came with a power wash booth, media blaster station and crank polisher in the garage! Oh, wait....
I would have guessed it would make 400+hp NA with the stage 3 cam motion cam, long tubes, intake and tune. Most bone stock LM7s make 340+hp and ~370 torque on engine dynos. I think hot rod magazine did a test some factory cams and the 5.3L made over 400hp with a stock LS9 cam. I am guessing the tuning for AFRs or timing was off on this test
Looks like it has reman heads by the temp heat tabs on the freeze plugs in the end of the heads .
They put heat tabs on engines you by from the junyard for warranty purposes. You'd be supprised at how good aluminium heads clean up especially with something like oven cleaner. They have a decent parts washer too us mere mortals would have to scrub the crap out of them for ages to look like that