Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched these two videos. I’m in the middle of reassembly after doing dod vvt delete and your tutorial has been a HUGE help. Thanks man!
I know you've sold the Yukon at this point but just wanted to say thank you for the clear concise videos you've put together on the DOD delete. My 2014 GMC sierra lost a regular lifter at 270k last week. I feel lucky to have that many trouble free miles. Ive done plenty of LS stuff on my GTO and a DOD delete on my old 2009 GMC many years ago. Your videos made the gen 5 5.3 much less intimidating. The best automotive how to videos ive ever watched on youtube.
Thank you so much for this! I basically had your videos as my go to source and THEN the AllData printouts as a backup. Incredibly informative! Just FYI for the other garage diy'ers out there, my timing chain retention mechanism was brittle. I tried to be careful with it when compressing it, but it ended up being a worst case scenario. The thing broke in half and fell down in the oil pan... I had to order the oil pump alignment tools and spent an extra day dropping the diff, steering gear, and pan! On the bright side, it made getting dot-to-dot easier, lol. Anyway, thanks again!
I feel so much more confident that I can begin this project, I am so so scared to do this but I have downloaded and save these two videos so that I can watch and rewatch as needed. Pray for me 😮😮
Nicely done video. We replaced the failed factory AFM system with with a stage 2 Tooley Racing cam, solid lifters, comp valve springs and rockers, hi flow oil pump, and Shortuning the ECM plus TCM. Serious increase in HP. Running only high performance 20-50w oil. Engine uses zero oil, small decrease in fuel economy but worth the added performance.
I thought newer engines needed the thinner oils that get up through the top of the motor? 20W-50 oil has got to thick as lard. What about when it gets cold and the oil flows even less upon start-up? Won't that damage the top of the engine? Either way, it sounds like you know more than I do on the subject at hand.
When replacing the oil pump. What is the procedure? I have a new oem GM oil pump and chain tensioner. Will I need to align the new one or can I just stick it on there and torque it down?
To my understanding, a new pump can be installed normally whereas an old pump must be perfectly centered. Don’t take my word for it, that’s just what I have heard
Awesome very helpful videos! I am just finishing my 2018 1500 cam swap to a BTR stage 2. I am getting ready to refill the fluids, I would like to assume but you never know, the vehicle was running when you drained out that atf at the end there right? Thank you!
Thanks a ton!!! Completed Video 1 and now one to video 2. Mine is in a 2019 Tahoe but is a 5.3 L83. When I pulled my High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter the hole was positioned to the Driver Side. Do I put it back that way? Does it make a difference? That timing chain was a beast but I got it. Thanks again!!
Careful when prying on the chain!! While following this series this weekend, the tip of my screwdriver broke off, and i had to remove the upper oil pan to find it… not a good time
Finished job and now am getting a p127c and p0192 and have bought new fuel rail pressure sensor and harness and tested with multimeter and reads fine but still showing low voltage check engine light any idea what else I could try?
Why the thread sealant on the rocket arm bolts? Appears to be a dead hole and I cannot find on Mitchell diy where they add anything to the rocket arm bolt. I could see a little blue loctite but I’m afraid that the white thread sealant might get on the mating surface between the head and the rocket arm. 17:46
I didn’t see any info, but on that valley pan. What did you do to the dod solonoids under that pan? I can’t find anything. I know the holes are plugged. But then what. Leave the solonoids?
This is close to ideal with VVT functional and DoD deleted for the trucks. I know a bunch of people want a big cam in their LS. But the optimal timing to open and close changes with engine speed.
Yes, 18 ft/lbs, but not part of the front cover sequence. Once the front cover is on, I finished the ones coming from the bottom. That’s just me though.
When tuning the ecu and Tcm do you have to adjust the slip on the torque converter? I have completed the dod delete and have no check engine light but I noticed when driving i feel a slight jerk when truck is shifting . It’s a 2019 Silverado 5.3. I used factory camshaft. Or could the torque converter be going bad?
The dod can destroy the transmission as it goes in and out of 4 cylinder mode. There are a lot of torque converter problems and the shudder is common. Disabling the dod would be the real fix as you have. You can try the updated fluid that has helped a lot, but the damage may be done ua-cam.com/video/Bu_isDRd9lI/v-deo.htmlsi=DCz52JaCAj1GyPNA
Great video. I love the fine details that you went through. Out of curiosity, and I may have missed it, why didn't you go ahead and replace the oil pump since you possibly had metal in the engine?
The oil pump requires pulling the engine (or dropping the oil pan and partially pulling the engine. It has to be perfectly centered upon re-installing (unless you buy a new pump apparently) or use tools that didn’t really work that you’ll see in the videos. I don’t find any metal in the oil lifter filter screen and the other lifters appeared to catch the other small pieces. I guess I was just at the point to give it a try or go with a whole new engine but didn’t want to pull the new heads off a new engine to remove the collapsable lifters. It was a little complicated
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I love this walkthrough...it's been so helpful. I'm in the middle of doing this to my wife's Escalade ESV, and I tried a little to walk that chain off the cog but decided to go ahead and pull the pan. It's a lot more work, but since it's only a 2WD, I only had to lower the steering rack to get it out. The 4WD models require pulling the differential...ewww. Glad I did because putting on that pump is much easier when it's new. Also, cleaning out all the build-up at the bottom of the pain makes me feel better. I was surprised at how much of the timing cover gasket fell into the pan even though I covered the opening.
Hi. Thank you for your video. We are doing the same now with 2023, 6.2 l. We use texas speed kit. But it kit doesn't have a new fuel pump lifter. Do you think it is a problem?
If the fuel pump lifter doesn’t show wear marks it should be fine. It’s up to you if you want to put one in while it’s apart or have to remove the vlom cover again
If you have deleted the kit nothing will happen, but if you are still running the stock dod it can cause the lifter to not collapse or to stay collapsed. I believe that can bend a pushrod
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for your reply man I still have stock dod the reason for asking it’s because my Escalade is has a p06DD engine oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck off which I replaced the sensor that is in oil pump and 2 days later the check engine came back so I was wondering if is actually one of does solenoids on the vlom cover do you know by chance if they have something to do with it by chance ?
For stock replacement cam specs it’s better not to add the limiter so you take advantage of the variable valve timing. If you install a larger duration cam, my understanding is that it may be needed to avoid any piston to valve clearance.
I got a stock cam from Brian tooley and upgraded lifters .225 he said I can reuse my stock push rods. I notice you got new ones that are smaller. Wonder if I need to do the same. I just got done torquing rocker arms to 22ft lb and I went to turn the crank and I get about a quarter turn then it feels stuck. Not sure if I should just try to continue rotating.?
Any idea how I can get the dowel out of the head it has driven itself in so far I can’t even grab it with needle noses should I try to use a tap to thread it or what
I would try to gently pry on it from inside the dowel with a flat head screw driver to lift it up, but be very careful not to scratch the mating surface of the head
It’s pretty tight. It helped to have a second set of hands and go one tooth at a time, using a screw driver to help it and keep the chain as close to virtical as possible
So… I dropped my timing chain off the crank gear. Any tips on getting it back on? I can’t see obviously with the oil pump still in place and the chain just moves freely now 😢
You should be able to pull the chain back up with a magnet and lift the chain from the top for it to catch the crank gear, then walk the chain back over the cam gear. Make sure the crank locked at tip dead center as shown in the video so the timing isn’t off. If you remove the oil pump it won’t come all the way off and you’ll need to take the front cover of the oil pump off to put shims in and center it in 3 places, so you want to avoid messing with it if possible
Hey finished putting everything back on but now I’m getting a p0192 and p127c code which are both fuel rail pressure circuit low voltage codes and it won’t turn over without starter fluid and all the wires tested good so I’m thinking I should change out the fuel rail pressure sensor, do you have any other ideas on what I should check for
When your timing marks are pointing at each other on the crankshaft and the cam phaser, and you’re at top dead center, is that the intake and exhaust stroke, or is that the power stroke?
Hi dany i have same problem 5.3l suburban 155000 ml i have one question when you have problem whith lifter the engine is shaking at the light or in traffik its like the engine wants to off taxometr is playing up and down 1-0.5 mph.thank you if you answer to me.
The lifter only makes sound unless it has also bent a pushrod, so it will shake at idle depending on if other damage happened. You will have to see as you tear it down what else is broken
I’m working on my Gen V Lt1, for the small bolts like the rockers you keep mentioning 22flbs is it possible you meant 22 in-lbs??? Because it seems like I’m stripping the bolt
Great video! I have one question. Did you have to do anything special to the OEM VLOM to reuse it other just replacing the gasket? I keep reading that you need to replace it with a non DOD cover.
I don’t want to give poor advice, so a machine shop is recommended to go through them, make sure they are true (not warped), install new seals etc. I believe the way I removed the heads only 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence helps on aluminum heads and block from warping. For mine I simply cleaned them carefully with only gasket remover and a microfiber and plastic scraper and it all turned out okay. I also cleaned out the intake ports from all the gunk and it all seemed good.
Awesome video. Great camera and audio. The only question I have is that I didn't see the solenoids that operate the old AFM lifters. Did that connector and solenoid remain connected or removed? I thought it was mounted on the valley cover plate but didn't see it in your video. Thanks again for filming and sharing this.
Yes, all solenoids are on the bottom of the VLOM valley plate. They are still there, just not being used. It could make it easier in the event you ever wanted dod again.
I’ve had nothing but issues trying to get my Cam phaser back on top my timing chain. Already had the VVT break on me 2 times with 2 cam phasers. Am I missing something? Do I need smaller screw drivers?
@@HewigIsidore I haven’t noticed a difference in the valvetrain, but leaving the insulation off under the intake manifold, I could hear the direct injection a lot more. I left it off so I could check for fuel leaks, but I would have to take off the intake manifold to get it back under there. I probably should have just put it on.
Nobody replaces the crank shaft seal? Kind of hard I know because you can’t remove the cover from the oil pump plug. I guess they don’t leak? Thanks for the video. Has been a big help.
Hello I did a AFM DELETE ON A 2015 I marked the timing marks good also after install I check everything lined up perfect wen I was finished I ended up with a code P0016, truck drive and starts right up great but I get check engine light about 5th crank up and way to adjust this please let me know thank you
It’s very similar, but there are differences such as the rockers all being tired together and a few things. I believe yours is not direct injection, which is much better
Nice Video man, im about to do my buddies Silverado, had a couple questions, ive done gen 4s and was wondering if u ended up removing the oil pan and oil pump at all? Every video i see they remove both . Also ive seen they also lock the phaser.
The Gen 5 has some differences that make it a little more difficult. The oil pump goes down into the oil pan, so it cannot be removed without dropping the pan. It also has a sensor (I believe for the variable oil pump) that has a cord going into the bottom of the oil pan area which also would need to be removed and is not accessible with the pan on. The most challenging part of the oil pump is that it must be perfectly centered when reinstalled, and the centering tools they sell do not do a good job of that. You would need to take the oil pump cover off and put .002 shims around the pump on 3 places to try to center it again. For these reasons, I believe the shop manual calls to pull the engine and charges 34 hours. In the video we work around the oil pump to avoid all this. It does leave some problems if you had a lot of metal shavings in the engine, so you’ll decide if you want a new oil pump. Leaving the oil pump on makes it impossible to see the crank timing dot, so pay attention to how we lock the crank at Top dead center for piston 1 (driver side) and look for the alignment arrow to point down. You also have to walk the chain off the timing gear. It’s all in the videos, but there is a reason we do what we do. If you plan to pull the engine out, do all the oil pump and seals on the pan. Locking the phaser is best if you are gong to a larger cam where it would be a problem for the phaser to rotate. If using the stock replacement non-DOD cam as you see in this video, leave the phaser unlocked for better low end torque and better all around performance.
Here is a list of cost and parts I put together: How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.html
Danny - after watching you make the engine repairs on this video - though I am a mechanic and do most of the work myself on my own vehicles - I think I will just pass on this and just keep CLEAN OIL in my engine -even though I have some ticking noise 😐✌️2012 Chevy Avalanche , 5.3 L
Do the best you can. I know the new intervals of 10,000 miles is way too long and adds to it, but I also changes it sooner and it still happened. Do the best you can
It’s hard to say. Pulling the engine, I would have done more with removing the oil pan and not having the chain pull over the timing set. I would have probably also added a new oil pump and seals..you saw all the oil come out of the head bolt holes- it would have been better to dump the engine upside down- but more work aligning the transmission back up. Part of me would have wanted a whole new engine, but they all come with the bad lifters
If you do the delete it does require a new cam. If you only replace lifters it will only require a new cam if the bad lifters have scarred up the old cam, which is very likely. Once the heads and lifters are removed you can look down in at the cam and decide if you need to continue ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.htmlsi=q5ZQwduYnCXPmKnS
As long as the factory setting has not been removed, you can put the gas pedal down while starting the engine and it will crank but not start. After doing that for a few times I started the vehicle as normal
It depends on the cam. I used a stock replacement but non-dod cam and kept vvt. I have heard of others who say to keep vvt with a stock setup for best torque results but to lock out the VVT with a larger cam (may even be necessary to avoid piston to valve contact) on some cams
@ ok I have a 2019 Silverado 5.3 V8. The phaser bolt I used part# GM 12681018. I think I installed the wrong phaser bolt? Did I need the one you referenced in the video for 2019?
Hey what cam shaft did you use and did you need to tune it? I’m looking into a DOD delete on 2016 Silverado 5.3 and looking into a Texas speed kit. I honestly just want to delete the DOD and AFM but for longevity not performance.
@@rickyace09 yes, you will need a tune (I believe mostly from the variable oil pump and not getting codes for the solenoids not working). I would not try starting it without a tune
Did this on a 2017 suburban following this. I am getting a p0011 and poo16 cam and cranks shaft position code. I had an afm disabled plugged in at start up and the engine ran great. Held it at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes no lifter noise sounded great. Drove to the grocery store and on the way back ran a little rough and through the codes with multiple misfires. People said it was just that it needed a tune not the disabler. I deleted the v4 option with a hyper tech programmer I bought. Still throwing the codes and running a little rough on startup now once you put in drive. My gut says to go in and check the timing again. Without taking heads off. Didnt think anything moved but might have. I might be a tooth off. Is there something else to tune or does this sound like timing? It just ran so great at first that I found it hard to believe it would be out of timing.
It does sound like it may be out of time, according to the codes. Without removing the oil pump, you may not be able to tell. If you do loosen the pump, you’ll want to watch the videos about taking the front oil pump cover off to shim it .020 on all 3 sides
@@josephlanham-ob9vr No, in my video I locked the crankshaft with the flywheel holding tool and avoided removing the oil pump because it cannot be removed entirely with the electrical connection and has to be perfectly centered if reinstalled. There are videos covering it out there but not mine
Freaking figured it out. The reason it ran fine at first then got off……because I freaking forgot to pull the small Allen key out of the chain tensioner and left the tensenior blocked
Cobalt for the inch pound and Dewalt for the foot pound www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVE1C84/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01JVE1C84&linkId=ff39b81a9bcc51b69162c331ea765925
Unfortunately I have to tear down my 5.3l to determine the current lifter failure damage. I am wondering why you didn't clean up the build up on the pistons, I am not a mechanic but love to learn new stuff on my vehicles to save money vs paying high labor rates good mechanics charge. I am thinking just to replace all the lifters if i have no cam damage but going the long block route remanufactured with delete of AFM already installed if I can find one rebuilt this way.
I cleaned them a little, but the less mess I made the better for contamination. I spent a lot of time on the head gasket mating surfaces and the intake valve ports
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
@@oscarjean4816 i would ask your dyno person his opinion, and perhaps even have him send you a “startup tune” to drive it over there. I have only heard range disablers aren’t enough
I’ll have to add it up and put it in the video description as an itemized list, but I also did a lot of things that may not have been necessary like the high pressure fuel pump, water pump, vacuum pump that I wanted to replace now rather than later , so plan on about $1,500 minimum to about $2,500 as seen in the video.
Hey Danny, love the video. I am doing this repair at home myself. I left the engine in the car, now I am regretting it, and I was able to take all the parts apart and get the phaser out. However, after installing the new cam and camp plate, I am stuck and I am not able to get the new phaser in. I broke one last night and I just picked up a brand new phaser for $225 and I don’t want to break another one. It looks like you got the phaser back in easy. How do you do that? I am at the point of trying to drop the oil pan and then remove the oil pump so I can get that chain back around the phaser.
If the vlom cover is still off, I found it useful to push the cam slightly forward towards the front of the car with your fingers so you can line up the phaser and rotate the cam until the nub on the cam seats in the phaser hole. It really helps to have someone else there to help walk the chain on. It’s tight but one link at a time it’s possible. Be sure the timing arrow is pointed directly down and the crank has not moved at all (hopefully you have the flywheel tool in place to lock it from moving).
Thank you for the reply. I was able to finally get it on by loosening the oil pump bolts, took 5 hours but got it all lined up with cylinder 1 TDC. Thank you!
I wanted as few variables as possible, and a stock replacement. I didn’t want to worry about aftermarket components, new valve springs, and worse fuel economy. The truck has plenty of power as it comes, and it’s a family vehicle ua-cam.com/video/6VzX7rETZIY/v-deo.htmlsi=DxLaVU01hJaxqi6-
Incredible documentation! How does it run now? What is the fuel mileage reduction without DOD? Why did you not install a cam phaser plug? I see mod shops do that with the lifter upgrade. Thx....
Runs just the same as factory, 1 mpg difference on fuel economy. I kept the cam phaser (did not lock the VVT) since the new cam spec was similar to factory. Aggressive cams may need it locked but a factory spec allows you to maintain better low end torque with the VVT. ua-cam.com/video/ddthA_E5Yqc/v-deo.htmlsi=jITK80oQzcoB_ji1
@@gbass7328 yeah, it kept the VVT. My understanding is bigger cams force you to lock it out so you don’t have piston to valve contact, but for the stock cam spec it’s fine
Because I went with a stock replacement cam it was recommended to keep VVT for better torque performance. If I were going to a larger cam it would have been considered (and possibly required to not hit valves as I understand).
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched these two videos. I’m in the middle of reassembly after doing dod vvt delete and your tutorial has been a HUGE help. Thanks man!
Glad it helped. It’s a big project. 👍🏼
Always impressed by your quality of work. Great job! Now with that annoying DOD/AFM gone, the Yukon will last you a very long time.
I know you've sold the Yukon at this point but just wanted to say thank you for the clear concise videos you've put together on the DOD delete. My 2014 GMC sierra lost a regular lifter at 270k last week. I feel lucky to have that many trouble free miles. Ive done plenty of LS stuff on my GTO and a DOD delete on my old 2009 GMC many years ago. Your videos made the gen 5 5.3 much less intimidating. The best automotive how to videos ive ever watched on youtube.
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Even though I sold it, I still have the knowledge and I’m always willing to help others as much as I can. 👍🏼
Thank you so much for this! I basically had your videos as my go to source and THEN the AllData printouts as a backup. Incredibly informative! Just FYI for the other garage diy'ers out there, my timing chain retention mechanism was brittle. I tried to be careful with it when compressing it, but it ended up being a worst case scenario. The thing broke in half and fell down in the oil pan... I had to order the oil pump alignment tools and spent an extra day dropping the diff, steering gear, and pan! On the bright side, it made getting dot-to-dot easier, lol. Anyway, thanks again!
Could you share the alldata prints?
One of the best how to videos I have watched! Very detailed, patient, so impressed!! Definitely will subscribe to your channel.
I feel so much more confident that I can begin this project, I am so so scared to do this but I have downloaded and save these two videos so that I can watch and rewatch as needed. Pray for me 😮😮
Nicely done video. We replaced the failed factory AFM system with with a stage 2 Tooley Racing cam, solid lifters, comp valve springs and rockers, hi flow oil pump, and Shortuning the ECM plus TCM. Serious increase in HP. Running only high performance 20-50w oil. Engine uses zero oil, small decrease in fuel economy but worth the added performance.
I thought newer engines needed the thinner oils that get up through the top of the motor? 20W-50 oil has got to thick as lard. What about when it gets cold and the oil flows even less upon start-up? Won't that damage the top of the engine? Either way, it sounds like you know more than I do on the subject at hand.
how much was the price for the tune?
Should've ported the heads while off.
Im doing it right now these videos are perfect. Great job guys. 🎉 Terrible serviceability everywhere maybe the worst ive experienced…
If I knew for sure a shop would be this meticulous I’d have them do it. Can I fly you out to MA? 😂
When replacing the oil pump. What is the procedure? I have a new oem GM oil pump and chain tensioner. Will I need to align the new one or can I just stick it on there and torque it down?
To my understanding, a new pump can be installed normally whereas an old pump must be perfectly centered. Don’t take my word for it, that’s just what I have heard
Will the edge tuner work for this. You can turn the dod off on the edge tuner
This helps a lot...I'll be doing mine when the heads are ready
Awesome very helpful videos! I am just finishing my 2018 1500 cam swap to a BTR stage 2. I am getting ready to refill the fluids, I would like to assume but you never know, the vehicle was running when you drained out that atf at the end there right? Thank you!
Yes. While at about 90-115 degrees trans temp. Make sure not to burn yourself on the exhaust
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you sir!
Thanks a ton!!! Completed Video 1 and now one to video 2. Mine is in a 2019 Tahoe but is a 5.3 L83. When I pulled my High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter the hole was positioned to the Driver Side. Do I put it back that way? Does it make a difference?
That timing chain was a beast but I got it.
Thanks again!!
It may be different for 2019 (as well as the vvt cam bolt like you’ll see later in the video. I would assume it’s best to go back how it came
Careful when prying on the chain!! While following this series this weekend, the tip of my screwdriver broke off, and i had to remove the upper oil pan to find it… not a good time
Excellent job you may want to service the transmission if you haven’t done it already .
Did you plug the pressure relief in the oil pan is it necessary?
It was not part of the kit as I am aware. Oil pressure was good, just being in V8 mode from now on
Excellent work. Excellent video! Both part 1 and this part 2!
Thank you, I appreciate it! 🙏🏼
How did you cam out without dropping the oil pan
Finished job and now am getting a p127c and p0192 and have bought new fuel rail pressure sensor and harness and tested with multimeter and reads fine but still showing low voltage check engine light any idea what else I could try?
I would look at the plugs that go to the fuel rail on the back of the engine to ensure they are connected properly and did not pinch a wire
Why the thread sealant on the rocket arm bolts? Appears to be a dead hole and I cannot find on Mitchell diy where they add anything to the rocket arm bolt. I could see a little blue loctite but I’m afraid that the white thread sealant might get on the mating surface between the head and the rocket arm. 17:46
Thread sealant is used similar to thread locker. Oils may cause the threads to become loose
Best Video I have ever seen.
Will the camshaft shown in the video maintain the same engine torque as before, knowing that it is a camshaft intended for the 5.3 and 6.2 engines?
Great video series. Thanks for sharing.
I just did my lifters thank to your detailed video.
Did just also replaced the cam shaft? Would it work without replacing the cam shaft?
Thanks for a great video. It was a big help in my DOD delete on my 2018 5.3 Silverado.
I didn’t see any info, but on that valley pan. What did you do to the dod solonoids under that pan? I can’t find anything. I know the holes are plugged. But then what. Leave the solonoids?
Yeah, you just put the pan (VLOM) back on and make sure it has a dod tune.
@ thank you, and just leave the solonoids in there?
Yep. Bolt it right back on. They are just along for the ride
This is close to ideal with VVT functional and DoD deleted for the trucks. I know a bunch of people want a big cam in their LS. But the optimal timing to open and close changes with engine speed.
Fantastic video. Thank you for posting this. 🍻
I didn't see this in the video or in the comments, but the two bolts that joins the oil pan to the timing cover, are those torqued after the fronts?
Yes, 18 ft/lbs, but not part of the front cover sequence. Once the front cover is on, I finished the ones coming from the bottom. That’s just me though.
I’m starting mine tomorrow. Where did you get the ecm reprogrammed. Or did you buy a pre tuner
It was local here in town. You can ship your computer off to companies and they can do it
Is the passenger side head bolts the same torque specs as driver side, the first top one specifically
Yes, they all have the same torque and procedure you will see in the video, except the driver side front Allen bolt
When tuning the ecu and Tcm do you have to adjust the slip on the torque converter? I have completed the dod delete and have no check engine light but I noticed when driving i feel a slight jerk when truck is shifting . It’s a 2019 Silverado 5.3. I used factory camshaft. Or could the torque converter be going bad?
The dod can destroy the transmission as it goes in and out of 4 cylinder mode. There are a lot of torque converter problems and the shudder is common. Disabling the dod would be the real fix as you have. You can try the updated fluid that has helped a lot, but the damage may be done ua-cam.com/video/Bu_isDRd9lI/v-deo.htmlsi=DCz52JaCAj1GyPNA
Excellent work Dan !
Thanks! Hopefully it can help some people out
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage once I'm out of warranty... I will be referring back to these video series.
Great video. I love the fine details that you went through. Out of curiosity, and I may have missed it, why didn't you go ahead and replace the oil pump since you possibly had metal in the engine?
The oil pump requires pulling the engine (or dropping the oil pan and partially pulling the engine. It has to be perfectly centered upon re-installing (unless you buy a new pump apparently) or use tools that didn’t really work that you’ll see in the videos. I don’t find any metal in the oil lifter filter screen and the other lifters appeared to catch the other small pieces. I guess I was just at the point to give it a try or go with a whole new engine but didn’t want to pull the new heads off a new engine to remove the collapsable lifters. It was a little complicated
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I love this walkthrough...it's been so helpful. I'm in the middle of doing this to my wife's Escalade ESV, and I tried a little to walk that chain off the cog but decided to go ahead and pull the pan. It's a lot more work, but since it's only a 2WD, I only had to lower the steering rack to get it out. The 4WD models require pulling the differential...ewww. Glad I did because putting on that pump is much easier when it's new. Also, cleaning out all the build-up at the bottom of the pain makes me feel better. I was surprised at how much of the timing cover gasket fell into the pan even though I covered the opening.
Love the garage DIY dial indicator to determine TDC! Had me laughing but I’m sure it was on, just not exactly ideal.
Hi. Thank you for your video. We are doing the same now with 2023, 6.2 l. We use texas speed kit. But it kit doesn't have a new fuel pump lifter. Do you think it is a problem?
If the fuel pump lifter doesn’t show wear marks it should be fine. It’s up to you if you want to put one in while it’s apart or have to remove the vlom cover again
Hello. I've been putting together escalade 6.2 year 2009 lately until i came across lifters. Does it matter which side the hole on lifters is pointed?
I have been told it does not matter for the lifters, but you may want to contact a professional mechanic at a dealership to also verify
Hey on the vlom cover what can happen if one of the solenoid go bad or get stuck
If you have deleted the kit nothing will happen, but if you are still running the stock dod it can cause the lifter to not collapse or to stay collapsed. I believe that can bend a pushrod
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for your reply man I still have stock dod the reason for asking it’s because my Escalade is has a p06DD engine oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck off which I replaced the sensor that is in oil pump and 2 days later the check engine came back so I was wondering if is actually one of does solenoids on the vlom cover do you know by chance if they have something to do with it by chance ?
Do you need to add a cam phase limiter? Just wondering because I didn’t do it and now I’m watching other videos that people did add the limiter
For stock replacement cam specs it’s better not to add the limiter so you take advantage of the variable valve timing. If you install a larger duration cam, my understanding is that it may be needed to avoid any piston to valve clearance.
I got a stock cam from Brian tooley and upgraded lifters .225 he said I can reuse my stock push rods. I notice you got new ones that are smaller. Wonder if I need to do the same. I just got done torquing rocker arms to 22ft lb and I went to turn the crank and I get about a quarter turn then it feels stuck. Not sure if I should just try to continue rotating.?
Any idea how I can get the dowel out of the head it has driven itself in so far I can’t even grab it with needle noses should I try to use a tap to thread it or what
I would try to gently pry on it from inside the dowel with a flat head screw driver to lift it up, but be very careful not to scratch the mating surface of the head
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage got it out thanks man
How were u able to place chain in front of the cam phaser when walking it back on
It’s pretty tight. It helped to have a second set of hands and go one tooth at a time, using a screw driver to help it and keep the chain as close to virtical as possible
Did you have to get a tune
Yes, it shows it at the end of the video. I believe it’s a variable pressure oil pump so without turning it off it could mess up the flow
So… I dropped my timing chain off the crank gear. Any tips on getting it back on? I can’t see obviously with the oil pump still in place and the chain just moves freely now 😢
You should be able to pull the chain back up with a magnet and lift the chain from the top for it to catch the crank gear, then walk the chain back over the cam gear. Make sure the crank locked at tip dead center as shown in the video so the timing isn’t off. If you remove the oil pump it won’t come all the way off and you’ll need to take the front cover of the oil pump off to put shims in and center it in 3 places, so you want to avoid messing with it if possible
@ figured it out. The crank gear just slid forward is all. I feel dumb for not noticing it sooner lmao
Just an awesome video. Great work. Thank you.
Hey finished putting everything back on but now I’m getting a p0192 and p127c code which are both fuel rail pressure circuit low voltage codes and it won’t turn over without starter fluid and all the wires tested good so I’m thinking I should change out the fuel rail pressure sensor, do you have any other ideas on what I should check for
Sounds like the fuel rail pressure sensor to me as well.
Can you put a metal plug into where the lifter filter goes? Stopping oil pressure from being inside the vlom.
I’m not sure. Perhaps Brain Tooley racing can answer that.
I will send them a message and post my findings here.
You can get lifter plugs from texas speed
When your timing marks are pointing at each other on the crankshaft and the cam phaser, and you’re at top dead center, is that the intake and exhaust stroke, or is that the power stroke?
I believe it was the exhaust stroke with the arrow, pointing to the dot.
Hi dany i have same problem 5.3l suburban 155000 ml i have one question when you have problem whith lifter the engine is shaking at the light or in traffik its like the engine wants to off taxometr is playing up and down 1-0.5 mph.thank you if you answer to me.
The lifter only makes sound unless it has also bent a pushrod, so it will shake at idle depending on if other damage happened. You will have to see as you tear it down what else is broken
@danny johnson's garage may i ask what software was being used by your friend to delete the AFM programming and to set up the new tuning?
I’m not sure the brand he uses.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well heck...
I’m working on my Gen V Lt1, for the small bolts like the rockers you keep mentioning 22flbs is it possible you meant 22 in-lbs??? Because it seems like I’m stripping the bolt
Use this guide ratedrmotorsports.com/blogs/lt-torque-specs/lt-torque-specs?srsltid=AfmBOoqyRDi8v7RzY602_TKKGnW-FSqPCrGS4X2PNeLuUNVPdD7xnztk
It says valve rocker arm bolts 22 ft lbs in the guide
Great Video very informative a question did you remove all the solenoids and hardware from the valley pan?
Thanks again
No, it was all left in place
I wanna do this job but how do i know if my engine is worth saving?
Some prcedures say to tighten the crank bolt to 37 ft lbs then clock to 140, I have a 2011 5.3L, is it different for this motor than yours?
@@flyguy9018 I would follow the torque specs for your specific engine
Great video! I have one question. Did you have to do anything special to the OEM VLOM to reuse it other just replacing the gasket? I keep reading that you need to replace it with a non DOD cover.
I did not have to do anything with it since the plugs block the oil passages and the physical lifters are non dod now. The tune is super important
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageThank you!
Great video sr! I have 2016 cadillac escalade 6.2L has misfire cylinders #2 do i have to remove the cam too? Or just replacement the lifters?
I would remove the lifters and look down in and see if the cam is chewed up
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageok thank you for u time, it looks a lot work, i can't go that far 😔
Was t there some mods that have to be done to lower intake manifold? Maybe that just the older AFM delete kits? Thanks
Not that I know of for this L86 engine
Where are you getting the info on the vehicle such as torque specs, replacement parts, ect?
I have googled each part, looking for GM replacements or even gone to the dealership to find what they have in their system
Danny, the heads should be taken to the machin shop for rectification, or should not?
I don’t want to give poor advice, so a machine shop is recommended to go through them, make sure they are true (not warped), install new seals etc. I believe the way I removed the heads only 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence helps on aluminum heads and block from warping. For mine I simply cleaned them carefully with only gasket remover and a microfiber and plastic scraper and it all turned out okay. I also cleaned out the intake ports from all the gunk and it all seemed good.
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you very much for your advice, I really appreciate.
If i did a dod/afm delete on my camaro is it ok to use the same factory cam if nothing was wrong with it?
No, it is different as I have been told. I would contact Brian Tooley racing
Awesome video. Great camera and audio. The only question I have is that I didn't see the solenoids that operate the old AFM lifters. Did that connector and solenoid remain connected or removed? I thought it was mounted on the valley cover plate but didn't see it in your video. Thanks again for filming and sharing this.
Yes, all solenoids are on the bottom of the VLOM valley plate. They are still there, just not being used. It could make it easier in the event you ever wanted dod again.
I’ve had nothing but issues trying to get my Cam phaser back on top my timing chain. Already had the VVT break on me 2 times with 2 cam phasers. Am I missing something? Do I need smaller screw drivers?
Are you doing this alone or with a second set of hands?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage alone, do I need 2 hands?
Why use the shorter Chromoly Pushrods on a stock valvetrain components?
BTR told me to do so because they are LS7 lifters. According to them, they require 7.80” over factory 7.85”
Does your valvetrain seem quieter, the same or louder during engine operation with the Chromoly Pushrods?
@@HewigIsidore I haven’t noticed a difference in the valvetrain, but leaving the insulation off under the intake manifold, I could hear the direct injection a lot more. I left it off so I could check for fuel leaks, but I would have to take off the intake manifold to get it back under there. I probably should have just put it on.
Nobody replaces the crank shaft seal? Kind of hard I know because you can’t remove the cover from the oil pump plug. I guess they don’t leak?
Thanks for the video. Has been a big help.
Yeah, it’s always hard to know if you’ll make it worse when it’s not broken lol
I love you video if I could donated I would I just have one question. Why didn’t you guys go with 5w30 instead of 0w20?
On older vehicles I ran 5w30 and the only reason I was hesitant was this was I worried designed for 5w20 for the lifters. I could probably do 5w30 now
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage absolutley not ! vvt, oil galley ways all designed for 0-20, oil pump etc. Love the video Danny, excellent work... you da man !
Do you know the cam phaser cover torque specs for the three torx bolts?
The one shown at 1:34 into the video, 32 inch pounds is what the video said
Hello I did a AFM DELETE ON A 2015 I marked the timing marks good also after install I check everything lined up perfect wen I was finished I ended up with a code P0016, truck drive and starts right up great but I get check engine light about 5th crank up and way to adjust this please let me know thank you
Did you ever solve this? Hopefully, it was something easy. If you didn't pull the oil pump, I'm curious if you were off a tooth like he was.
Would this be the same engine and process for a 2013 Escalade Esv?
It’s very similar, but there are differences such as the rockers all being tired together and a few things. I believe yours is not direct injection, which is much better
Nice Video man, im about to do my buddies Silverado, had a couple questions, ive done gen 4s and was wondering if u ended up removing the oil pan and oil pump at all? Every video i see they remove both . Also ive seen they also lock the phaser.
The Gen 5 has some differences that make it a little more difficult. The oil pump goes down into the oil pan, so it cannot be removed without dropping the pan. It also has a sensor (I believe for the variable oil pump) that has a cord going into the bottom of the oil pan area which also would need to be removed and is not accessible with the pan on. The most challenging part of the oil pump is that it must be perfectly centered when reinstalled, and the centering tools they sell do not do a good job of that. You would need to take the oil pump cover off and put .002 shims around the pump on 3 places to try to center it again. For these reasons, I believe the shop manual calls to pull the engine and charges 34 hours. In the video we work around the oil pump to avoid all this. It does leave some problems if you had a lot of metal shavings in the engine, so you’ll decide if you want a new oil pump. Leaving the oil pump on makes it impossible to see the crank timing dot, so pay attention to how we lock the crank at Top dead center for piston 1 (driver side) and look for the alignment arrow to point down. You also have to walk the chain off the timing gear. It’s all in the videos, but there is a reason we do what we do. If you plan to pull the engine out, do all the oil pump and seals on the pan. Locking the phaser is best if you are gong to a larger cam where it would be a problem for the phaser to rotate. If using the stock replacement non-DOD cam as you see in this video, leave the phaser unlocked for better low end torque and better all around performance.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage man! I appreciate you! Thanks for replying & God bless You!
How much money does that project normally cost? on my 2013 Denali 6.2?
Here is a list of cost and parts I put together:
How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado
ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.html
Danny - after watching you make the engine repairs on this video - though I am a mechanic and do most of the work myself on my own vehicles - I think I will just pass on this and just keep CLEAN OIL in my engine -even though I have some ticking noise 😐✌️2012 Chevy Avalanche , 5.3 L
Do the best you can. I know the new intervals of 10,000 miles is way too long and adds to it, but I also changes it sooner and it still happened. Do the best you can
So it keeps the stock vlom cover? Doesn't need to be changed to non DOD cover?
Yes. You can keep the stock covered the solonoids are just turned off
Your thoughts, after doing this, would it have been easier pulling the motor? Or no?
It’s hard to say. Pulling the engine, I would have done more with removing the oil pan and not having the chain pull over the timing set. I would have probably also added a new oil pump and seals..you saw all the oil come out of the head bolt holes- it would have been better to dump the engine upside down- but more work aligning the transmission back up. Part of me would have wanted a whole new engine, but they all come with the bad lifters
Do you have to replace the camshaft as well? Or will it work without replacing the camshaft?
If you do the delete it does require a new cam. If you only replace lifters it will only require a new cam if the bad lifters have scarred up the old cam, which is very likely. Once the heads and lifters are removed you can look down in at the cam and decide if you need to continue
ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.htmlsi=q5ZQwduYnCXPmKnS
How did you prime the oil pump?
As long as the factory setting has not been removed, you can put the gas pedal down while starting the engine and it will crank but not start. After doing that for a few times I started the vehicle as normal
Thanks for the reply. Did you use are Rtv/sealant on the water pump?
Hey where you're located to make appointment to fix my 2022 Suburban engine?
When doing the Afm delete, do you have to disable VVt since it has different cam. I’m getting a P0011 code.
It depends on the cam. I used a stock replacement but non-dod cam and kept vvt. I have heard of others who say to keep vvt with a stock setup for best torque results but to lock out the VVT with a larger cam (may even be necessary to avoid piston to valve contact) on some cams
@ ok I have a 2019 Silverado 5.3 V8. The phaser bolt I used part# GM 12681018. I think I installed the wrong phaser bolt? Did I need the one you referenced in the video for 2019?
Are these part numbers the same for the 5.3 from a 2016 Silverado? I saw your engine was a 6.2
@@rickyace09 many of them will be, but I would verify in case some are different. Brian Tooley racing was a great help when ordering them all
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok very good thx for your help.
Did i miss the DOD delete part? You replaced cam and lifters??? What is the delete kit part? I’m confused
I also plugged the oil passages and a tune in the end. The cam is necessary as a non-dod
It’s at 42:47 into video 1
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=xdFBpqomfcG-mHiQ
Hey what cam shaft did you use and did you need to tune it? I’m looking into a DOD delete on 2016 Silverado 5.3 and looking into a Texas speed kit. I honestly just want to delete the DOD and AFM but for longevity not performance.
The cam I used is in the video description (but they go in and out of stock). It’s a stock replacement listed specifically for the 5.3 without dod
Got it. Did you need to tune it?
Hey not sure if you got my previous message. Did you need a tune?
@@rickyace09 yes, you will need a tune (I believe mostly from the variable oil pump and not getting codes for the solenoids not working). I would not try starting it without a tune
Did this on a 2017 suburban following this. I am getting a p0011 and poo16 cam and cranks shaft position code. I had an afm disabled plugged in at start up and the engine ran great. Held it at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes no lifter noise sounded great. Drove to the grocery store and on the way back ran a little rough and through the codes with multiple misfires. People said it was just that it needed a tune not the disabler. I deleted the v4 option with a hyper tech programmer I bought. Still throwing the codes and running a little rough on startup now once you put in drive. My gut says to go in and check the timing again. Without taking heads off. Didnt think anything moved but might have. I might be a tooth off. Is there something else to tune or does this sound like timing? It just ran so great at first that I found it hard to believe it would be out of timing.
It does sound like it may be out of time, according to the codes. Without removing the oil pump, you may not be able to tell. If you do loosen the pump, you’ll want to watch the videos about taking the front oil pump cover off to shim it .020 on all 3 sides
Did you have a video on that. I didn’t see it.
@@josephlanham-ob9vr No, in my video I locked the crankshaft with the flywheel holding tool and avoided removing the oil pump because it cannot be removed entirely with the electrical connection and has to be perfectly centered if reinstalled. There are videos covering it out there but not mine
Freaking figured it out. The reason it ran fine at first then got off……because I freaking forgot to pull the small Allen key out of the chain tensioner and left the tensenior blocked
Complete moron. How did I forget that
What torque wrench is that you’re using? Looks like it works good
Cobalt for the inch pound and Dewalt for the foot pound www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVE1C84/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01JVE1C84&linkId=ff39b81a9bcc51b69162c331ea765925
Unfortunately I have to tear down my 5.3l to determine the current lifter failure damage. I am wondering why you didn't clean up the build up on the pistons, I am not a mechanic but love to learn new stuff on my vehicles to save money vs paying high labor rates good mechanics charge. I am thinking just to replace all the lifters if i have no cam damage but going the long block route remanufactured with delete of AFM already installed if I can find one rebuilt this way.
I cleaned them a little, but the less mess I made the better for contamination. I spent a lot of time on the head gasket mating surfaces and the intake valve ports
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
Did you drain oil before or just change it soon after?
Drained it in the end in case there was any debris
Mr Danny when you can come and work on my suburban 😂
Do you really need to tune the computer before firing it again? Or can you take it from point A to Point B ? Driving it?
I got a tune before driving it. I believe the oil pump is variable flow and you don’t want it to also shut fuel off for half the cylinders
If I used the ob2 disable scanners just to take it to the dyno will it work ?
@@oscarjean4816 i would ask your dyno person his opinion, and perhaps even have him send you a “startup tune” to drive it over there. I have only heard range disablers aren’t enough
Than you
If you don't mind me asking. Roughly how much total were all the parts to do this? Just so i can budget for it for when i decide to do this
I’ll have to add it up and put it in the video description as an itemized list, but I also did a lot of things that may not have been necessary like the high pressure fuel pump, water pump, vacuum pump that I wanted to replace now rather than later , so plan on about $1,500 minimum to about $2,500 as seen in the video.
Awesome! Thank you!
will the torque specs be the same for the 5.3L?
They should be similar but I would double check them all
Hey Danny, love the video. I am doing this repair at home myself. I left the engine in the car, now I am regretting it, and I was able to take all the parts apart and get the phaser out. However, after installing the new cam and camp plate, I am stuck and I am not able to get the new phaser in. I broke one last night and I just picked up a brand new phaser for $225 and I don’t want to break another one. It looks like you got the phaser back in easy. How do you do that? I am at the point of trying to drop the oil pan and then remove the oil pump so I can get that chain back around the phaser.
If the vlom cover is still off, I found it useful to push the cam slightly forward towards the front of the car with your fingers so you can line up the phaser and rotate the cam until the nub on the cam seats in the phaser hole. It really helps to have someone else there to help walk the chain on. It’s tight but one link at a time it’s possible. Be sure the timing arrow is pointed directly down and the crank has not moved at all (hopefully you have the flywheel tool in place to lock it from moving).
Thank you for the reply. I was able to finally get it on by loosening the oil pump bolts, took 5 hours but got it all lined up with cylinder 1 TDC. Thank you!
Buen trabajo, solamente te sugiero cubrir con cinta adhesiva los puertos de admisión todo el tiempo así te evitarás tener sorpresas desagradables
Si, Tania bolsas plásticas puesto mucho del tiempo hasta que puesto la intake manifold
I am surprised you didn’t put a bigger mild performance cam, new double roller timing, chain and gears in as well???
I wanted as few variables as possible, and a stock replacement. I didn’t want to worry about aftermarket components, new valve springs, and worse fuel economy. The truck has plenty of power as it comes, and it’s a family vehicle
ua-cam.com/video/6VzX7rETZIY/v-deo.htmlsi=DxLaVU01hJaxqi6-
Just to make sure, the camshaft is for a 5.3 but your engine is a 6.2. Any issues?
I would definitely talk to brain tooley racing before ordering to verify, but I believe it’s also for the L8T which is a 6.6L.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage another question. Will this GM 12642273 Fuel Pump Follower Lifter work with the camshaft you have? I have the same kit
How many miles did your truck have
95,000. Way too few for this to happen, but it’s common, unfortunately
Incredible documentation! How does it run now? What is the fuel mileage reduction without DOD? Why did you not install a cam phaser plug? I see mod shops do that with the lifter upgrade. Thx....
Runs just the same as factory, 1 mpg difference on fuel economy. I kept the cam phaser (did not lock the VVT) since the new cam spec was similar to factory. Aggressive cams may need it locked but a factory spec allows you to maintain better low end torque with the VVT.
ua-cam.com/video/ddthA_E5Yqc/v-deo.htmlsi=jITK80oQzcoB_ji1
Great thx! The low end torque is important for an SUV. So then you still have VVT?
@@gbass7328 yeah, it kept the VVT. My understanding is bigger cams force you to lock it out so you don’t have piston to valve contact, but for the stock cam spec it’s fine
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage👍🏻
Thank you! Very informative
my only concern would be that pesky pickup tube o-ring in the back of my mind. I would of replaced it while doing all that work?
For the oil pump?
no VVT lockout?
Because I went with a stock replacement cam it was recommended to keep VVT for better torque performance. If I were going to a larger cam it would have been considered (and possibly required to not hit valves as I understand).
Thank you. Great video!
Great video.