this is a very good video. as a technician myself i would like to note that nobody is this careful while taking your car apart. everyone is out there using nothing but impact guns ripping your car apart because they dont pay us to be careful they only pay us based on how much stuff we get done.
I want to thank you for taking the time to show this step by step. I just finished doing mine tonight and could not have done it without your videos. You made it easy and explained everything perfectly. Thank you so much!
How long did it take you to do everything? I have a 2015 sierra with a plug in delete and have been skeptical about doing the full delete because I don’t want to have my truck sitting in the garage for days partly disassembled.
It took me right at 40hrs. I didn’t use a power ratchet in the disassembly(bought one to reassemble) and I think it took me 3hrs to get the timing chain off(probably was a little too cautious). Shop estimate time was 30hrs so I think I was pretty much on par with that. I’m no expert by any means but to do it right I think it’s a 30hr job all day.
This video is incredibly underrated & under viewed… This was my first video I’ve watched on this channel, and I was incredibly impressed. Thanks for the content, great job.
I picked up a 2016 quad cab Silverado 5.3 with 98,000 for $7500 in excellent condition the Engine was supposedly blown , all it was, was 2 bad lifters. I did the AFM delete bought new lifters and a Brian Tooley stage 1 cam. Took me about 6 hours. I used this video as a guide. Im not a Truck or Chevy Guy this was a Suprise for my wife. I did 2 oil changes in a 50 mile period also to be safe. Thanks again !!!!
6 hours!?!?! How the heck did you pull that off. I’ve been at this all day. I’m fighting all the stuck connectors and the dang fuel line won’t come off.
Just watched your video step by step man never taken a motor apart before and I gotta say your a life saver , from the little things that aren’t reusable to just how to get everything off right , you are awesome , now just waiting for my lifter and cam kit to get here and watch part 2 to get it back in
From my point of view, you have deserved a nice spot in heaven for sharing such an educational, high value material. I am not a mechanic but I will watch and enjoy the following videos instead of a blockbuster movie...
I currently have heads off and front cover off at my work. After studying the chain i thought, there must be a way to get this out without removing the pan. There has to be. I've been searching and searching for a video to see how to sneak the chain off without dropping the pan. This is the best video I have found after scouring the Tube. THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH for being so thorough and videoing this. So much good tips in this video. Tomorrow i will put this to use.
I just wanna give a GIANT thank you!! I followed your videos and "The Sundae Drive" videos and got this job done all by myself! It took a lot longer than it should have but so thankful for your help!!
Excellent narration and explains the job in detail. I have completed my very first 5.7 hemi cam and lifters replacement job. I did lots of research and i did make a mistake of swapping the heads. I didn't know the heads were dedicated. Anyway. Excellent...
Great job, nice step by step and great camera work,it is always hard to get clear views! As a note when using a crow's foot it should used at 90 deg to get the correct torque, without doing some additional math if other than 90 degrees. Thanks again for your work here.
@@johndonovan7018they didn’t win anything. They convinced plaintiffs to go into arbitration. So they are settling with some individuals outside of court, which kills the class action suit.
GM had a few of those dismissed on the argument design flaws are not manufacturing flaws. i think that was in alabama. as i said multiple of these so outcomes will vary but they are yet to actually lose@@hackershack23
6k is a lot, smells like dealer. 4-5k gets you nice parts upgrade with AFM delete. stock job is 3-4k. thats with labor and all. 1500-2000 in parts if you do labor yourself, possibly cheaper. i havent looked at prices in 10 months or so@@lespauljunky74
DJ… I have to say a huge Thank you for this video… I would never attempt this technical of a fix without your ability to technically communicate the process step by step… I’m ready to take my exhaust off so I can get the head off, but cannot get to the top flange bolt… I’ve watched your vid at least 20 times looking for a tip to get the long extension on the top side of the cat… I just can’t seem to get to it from the bottom, and I don’t have a 15mm socket on a small enough drive to clear the heat shield. I would be grateful for any advice - from you or your followers. Thank you!
It is pretty hard without a u joint. Do you have one like these (Amazon affiliate link) www.amazon.com/dp/B073PBM1WR/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_XBHQPQ2VFX8SBZ733Q15?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
I do brother… I think I’m trying to see if I should go on the tire side or the drive shaft side - but the best/only way is from underneath, correct? Thanks a MILLION for getting back to me so quickly!🙏🏼
My Silverado got the full delete like in this video and my truck runs great doesn't burn no oil at all also. Once tou do the full delete you have a great engine
It's such a shame what GM has done to their once badass V8s. The damage to this engine is insane. GM knows this is an issue and how do they fix it? They DONT. they keep making the same old junk V8s. So sad.
Their design is genius, this is what happens when you run cheap gas and your detonation is delayed because of low octane fuel when switching from v4/v8.. always use premium from the jump. Premium detergent if available, preferably.
Same here , I wanted a new semi many years ago , finally got into the position to do that and they ruined the diesel with epa regs. , so I decided to downgrade to a new pick up in 07 , I wore that one out almost , now I need a new one , but they dont build them worth buying nowadays . I'm bummed ..guess I'll look at horses to drive ..😢😂
Mil gracias a todos que hicieron posible este video todo esta a tiempo bello y instructivo mil gracias dios los bendiga sienpre sigue adelante sigan enseñando así 🙏
Your videos are great! Really wish you had one for replacing fuel injectors. Wife’s 2016 Denali has a bad one I think. I don’t know where to start but think I could do it with your step by step videos. Keep it up!
They are very difficult on this model because they are in so tight. It is hard to remove the fuel rail, they have o rings to deal with, and they will have a lot of debris fall into the cylinders, so that’s why I left them alone. If you watch the “Sundae drive” channel he has some more info on them
watch. watch wes work.. 1 yr ago.. you need all new everything. like 1,300$.. is the car worth it. took him 3 goes to get it right. parts cannon.. anything you take off, cant re use..
I had no idea this job was that involved. I'm currently using the range technology device to keep my Yukon in V8 mode until I'm brave enough to attempt this......
I wouldn’t until you have to. If you have v4 turned off it would most likely see a misfire from the dod lifters rather than a bent pushrod, so just let it ride until you have trouble (my thought)
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok I'll wait then. I just figured preventive maintenance for this would be better than when it actually goes disabling the vehicle and having to get a tow. I'm currently @ 115k on my 2015.
My suburban has been sitting in the garage for 4 months now. Dealer said bad lifter and cam. 254k miles. Quoted me $10k for a lifter and cam replacement or $16k for a new motor. Don't have that kind of cash available at the moment. I'm a reasonably handy guy, I've done a lot of alternators, steering pumps, water pumps, starters, brakes, hubs etc, just nothing this big. Your video makes this repair look.. easy isn't the word.. Straight forward, that's it. My question is, can there be other things wrong in there that I may run into that are related to the issue? Also, I'm up in the SLC area.. Do you know anyone up here that could to the reprogramming?
It’s a tough one. You may be best off dropping in a new engine for the cost. It depends on how bad it was for the lifter, if it broke apart and put metal throughout the engine. With the milage the cam bearing may also be worn. You’ll see all the new parts I installed that should help in the end like the vacuum pump (which is said to also put metal in the engine if it fails). There is also the risk of parts breaking if you have rust in your area. I would say at this point you could tear it down as the video shows and see what you find, then decide if it’s worth getting a new short block and reuse your heads. Then you’ll need to really look as the heads as they get so gunked up. There is a cost of taking them to a machine shop with the milage. I struggled with this decision because I would put another engine in which could have bad lifters again.
@@minipeppers6928 Parts alone were $3500.. Not sure who gave you that quote, but that's insanely low. I actually ended up just getting a remanufactured motor installed. $13500. Got the AFM delete motor. Runs better than it ever has.
I understand it’s even gotten worse from AFM (active fuel management )to DFM (dynamic fuel management) with more collapsible lifters and failures before the customers have even purchased them new.
Awesome video. Great camera, lighting and audio. I really thought I would have to pull my engine but you clarified that isn't necessary. Can you comment on leaving the original oil pump installed? I have read it should be replaced with lower pressure version to eliminate excessive oil being sprayed on cylinder walls when not utilized by the AFM system. You mentioned leaving the old pump in place and just curious if that is ok? Thanks again!
The oil pump is a bit tricky. Removing it would require pulling the engine (or at least lifting the engine enough to drop the oil pan. Then on installation it has to be perfectly centered or you can lose oil pressure. There are also oil lines in the pan with seals that have to line up just right. My understanding is the pump is a variable flow pump to allow more or less for the DOD and if you leave the stock one it continues to regulate to the normal oil pressure, just not needing to fluctuate since it’s more constant flow without the DOD. Mine has maintained the same oil pressure as before the procedure. I would definitely contact Brian Tooley racing about the pump as well as they have been super helpful.
Dep driveway degreaser and concrete cleaner works very well for cleaning gasket and carbon from heads amazingly. Very slightly corrosive on the alumium just enough to do a deap clean of any oxydized aluminum residue.
@@ferganibelkacem4889 you will hear a squeaking sounds, get misfires from a bent pushrod, or hear a ticking. Here is an example: Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv ua-cam.com/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/v-deo.html
I have the repair manual but it is unclear how to make all those changes so Thank you for your videos. I can share the digital file is super large but I am sure you have it too.
You are beautiful man thank you for this gym. I was trying to figure out how to get that alternator bracket out look at everywhere under the sun and the only information but it was viable came from yourself dusty brother happy wrenching.
I’ve just practiced over the years and making tutorials helps me research and present it as accurately as possible. Just hoping to help others in my same situation
Excellent DIY video. Kind of makes you brave enough to give it a go. Curious, what was the deciding factor for you to decide to do this? Was it just the DoD delete, or the noise, or were there any codes thrown?....never mind, I see below you have answered my queries already.
Looking at doing a full AFM/DOD delete on my truck. Checking to see what Extra gaskets etc would be needed: exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, HP fuel lines, HPFP gasket, head gaskets, water pump gaskets, valve cover gaskets, injector seals (if injectors are removed), crank pulley bolt, vacuum pump gasket (if removed), VLOM cover/gasket, timing cover gasket/rtv, cam-phaser bolt, cam plate/cover, and HPFP cam follower. Crankshaft holder tool. Oil pump alignment tools (if pump is removed). Does this sound about right?
Great video and tutorial. I hope I can print a copy of the transcript. Just an observation; it looked like(time:13:24-14:38) the exhaust manifold, on both sides, had a crack at bolts between cylinders 3&5 and 4&6. Wondering if that would effect DOD lifter performance. Thoughts?
Here is a breakdown How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.html
Thanks for your videos man I'm new to the newer motors with dod on them an I had to buy a 2014 gmc it's all good but I'd like to get into it before it's not good anymore tho lol
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm going to do it soon it's got 155k on the truck was naver run hard at all like I run one just shocked me how different thay are to before the dod stuff iv looked up alot on it tho definitely like your more detailed videos you should try an get money off UA-cam for your videos alot of people do
Maybe you had mentioned this, how many miles before you began to notice the lifters squeaking? Did you turn off DOD ever? If yes, when did you turn this off compared to when lifters failure began to take place?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Just curious what type/brand of oil you were using? I have read that oil contamination or fouling due to oil quality or not changing regularly can contribute to this problem.
@@bobbromm2269 I do believe it is a huge factor where GM has extended the time between oil changes. I was even running full synthetic and changing at 30% oil life left. It was a regular lifter that failed on mine. I believe the fact the system uses oil pressure in the small holes of the dod lifters that contamination can be a cause for their failure GM DOD/AFM Lifters operation explained, failures, how to delete. Why GM engines fail 5.3L 6.2L ua-cam.com/video/gEcxI2nwwxE/v-deo.html
What a complicated pile of junk.. the vehicle WAS a premium priced vehicle and should not need this job. This is why i drive pre 1980 cars and my wife drives a Hyundai.. they dont brake down or need this job. AFM Ls engines are useless.i could have removed the engine from any of my cars in the same this took. Great video sir and well done.looks like you have done this before. Steve in Australia
@@stevedriver1476 I love my 2000 Silverado. This has been disappointing. I have 2 Toyotas and my Silverado now Why I traded my GMC Yukon for a Toyota Sequoia ua-cam.com/video/cNm9rtx0GHQ/v-deo.html
Great video I just don’t understand all the different colored marker lines everywhere ? Even when you have timing marks from factory that shows correct timing references. Thanks
Yes, that’s just me being over cautious with some reference points since I cannot see the crank timing mark with the oil pump installed. In the end, the arrow points down and if the crank has not moved (and is locked with the tool as you see in the video) you should be in good shape
@@edvardotovar3266 i believe the cam phaser is different, and may not have as much luck waking the chain off the cam gear. If you have Dynamic Fuel management instead of active fuel management (DFM vs AFM) it may have more collapsible lifters
Mine was actually having noise from a bad lifter (see link below), and I wanted to delete the four-cylinder mode before it failed and bent a push rod ua-cam.com/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/v-deo.htmlsi=GCExGDUvqmIUlqmv
doesnt matter if p/rods ect are in order or not.. unless wear or damaged.. why TDC. the lifters are not solid.??... is this vid for 15 yr olds that know nothing about modern engines, like, clips. torque, too much info..knowing the faults with chev engines,,why buy one..@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
In video 2 you’ll see where we check the passages, and dumped oil over some of the engine (you could even dump oil down through the valley). We also removed the filter screen in video 2 and luckily did not find any metal pieces. ua-cam.com/video/nB6fOblDBNQ/v-deo.htmlsi=ikjqwAJ55R_GfVuF
I kinda feel like it also. I replaced the spark plugs and it ran much better. Now it’s showing multiple misfire code without any responsible cylinder. It idles better but not like it used to.I’ll have to keep on fishing. I saw a code tool on Summit racing that deletes the AFM but not sure if it’s too late for me and worth it. I’m not going to keep the Yukon much longer because we don’t drive it anymore
After watching you do it , i think im gonna throw away my Ls motor and go old school 350 , i thought i was ready to venture into the new way , until i seen this ..i dont think i can change , i like my oil pump where it was , with two bolts on the pick up tube, never did like that distrubutor , that drives the oil pump through the gear on the end of the cam ...that oil pump on that motor... , i dont want anything to do with that , i suppose there's a special tool to center it ( expensive tool , one-time use tool ? ) can i modify a front engine/timing cover (drill holes in a spare one ) to align that oil pump ?
You can take the cover off the oil pump and center it with feeler gauges, but it’s all a mess. I heard installing a new pump is fine, but you can’t reach the harness without removing the oil pan
Ok, here's the thing... my AFM is functional and I want to just swap out my stock camshaft for a stage 2 without pulling off the heads or doing anything else, is that possible? I just want to open the front and swap the cams.... then worry about the heads and lifters when I have more money
It isn’t possible because you will need different lifters for the different camshaft, and the lifters are riding on the camshaft. Even if you removed the rockers and pushrods, the cam won’t come out with the lifters on it, and the heads have to come off to take the lifters out. That’s my understanding. Maybe someone had come up with a work around, but I doubt it.
This is 4x4 on the Denali. Should be the same 6.2l and everything as the Escalade. 2019 may have a different cam phaser as you’ll see the cam bolt I show later in the video series
The flywheel holding tool you see later in the video locks the crank in place to brake free the crankshaft bolt and more importantly, holds the crank at top dead center. You won’t see the timing dot on the crankshaft so it’s crucial to hold the crank in place for the timing to be correct on installation ua-cam.com/video/zD2qEaAZNJQ/v-deo.htmlsi=tYtRTSjXrsBXLWxf
If all gm vehicles from 2015 to 2020 has the AFM problem why don’t GM makes a recall to fix this issue if it’s been going on for years I just spend almost $10k fixing my 2016 Escalade esv cylinder 4 because of this issue had the dealer change lifters,camshaft cylinder valves gasket,come on @GM do something about it
It was the cam BTR had for sale, and I was looking for a stock replacement as not to change anything on the valve springs etc. I wanted it to be as close to factory as possible so that’s what they had.
this is a very good video. as a technician myself i would like to note that nobody is this careful while taking your car apart. everyone is out there using nothing but impact guns ripping your car apart because they dont pay us to be careful they only pay us based on how much stuff we get done.
f$$K the dealers that pay you mechanics (no Integrity on either side)
Sadly true, and since I'm about to embark on this job with my mechanic, its a tough pill to swallow since I cant be there every day.
And this is why I do all of my own work
I want to thank you for taking the time to show this step by step. I just finished doing mine tonight and could not have done it without your videos. You made it easy and explained everything perfectly. Thank you so much!
How long did it take you to do everything? I have a 2015 sierra with a plug in delete and have been skeptical about doing the full delete because I don’t want to have my truck sitting in the garage for days partly disassembled.
It took me right at 40hrs. I didn’t use a power ratchet in the disassembly(bought one to reassemble) and I think it took me 3hrs to get the timing chain off(probably was a little too cautious). Shop estimate time was 30hrs so I think I was pretty much on par with that. I’m no expert by any means but to do it right I think it’s a 30hr job all day.
Hows your truck holding up with the afm delete? Hopefully no issues so far?
@leytonhankins1665 why would it sit for days in the garage partly disassembled?
Holding up fine so far. Runs better than it has in a long time.
if he went to the dealership for this, we would have never gotten this video. praise this man, its giving me confidence to do it myself.
Guys, this video deserves an award. Amazing detail, well done.
This video is incredibly underrated & under viewed… This was my first video I’ve watched on this channel, and I was incredibly impressed. Thanks for the content, great job.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageis it always necessary to swap out the cam , if it's not damaged for the delete, if so what's the reason.
Bro thanks I just made $1500 from
Part 1&2 thanks a lot
I picked up a 2016 quad cab Silverado 5.3 with 98,000 for $7500 in excellent condition the Engine was supposedly blown , all it was, was 2 bad lifters. I did the AFM delete bought new lifters and a Brian Tooley stage 1 cam. Took me about 6 hours. I used this video as a guide. Im not a Truck or Chevy Guy this was a Suprise for my wife. I did 2 oil changes in a 50 mile period also to be safe. Thanks again !!!!
Hey did you take it to a shop after to get a tune for it?
6 hours!?!?! How the heck did you pull that off. I’ve been at this all day. I’m fighting all the stuck connectors and the dang fuel line won’t come off.
Blown engine is a word people use often. A blown engine is a total destroyed engine.
Wow we would never get to see this video if GM could actually build a motor that doesn't destroy it self! Great video and narration.
I don't have to do this yet. But this is one of the best take-apart videos on UA-cam.
Just watched your video step by step man never taken a motor apart before and I gotta say your a life saver , from the little things that aren’t reusable to just how to get everything off right , you are awesome , now just waiting for my lifter and cam kit to get here and watch part 2 to get it back in
This is the best video I have seen for this. Great commentary, sound, and camera angles.
From my point of view, you have deserved a nice spot in heaven for sharing such an educational, high value material. I am not a mechanic but I will watch and enjoy the following videos instead of a blockbuster movie...
I currently have heads off and front cover off at my work. After studying the chain i thought, there must be a way to get this out without removing the pan. There has to be. I've been searching and searching for a video to see how to sneak the chain off without dropping the pan. This is the best video I have found after scouring the Tube. THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH for being so thorough and videoing this. So much good tips in this video. Tomorrow i will put this to use.
I just wanna give a GIANT thank you!! I followed your videos and "The Sundae Drive" videos and got this job done all by myself! It took a lot longer than it should have but so thankful for your help!!
The best AFM/DOD delete I’ve seen
And very expensive lol
@@madwestboy it's the only correct way to do it.
I love how 10 seconds in we’re already getting right into it😂. Great video!
I appreciate other videos, but I strive for mine to be step by step and get it done without a long story 👍🏼.
Thank you for your honesty and commitment to detail and excellence. Great video.
Excellent narration and explains the job in detail. I have completed my very first 5.7 hemi cam and lifters replacement job. I did lots of research and i did make a mistake of swapping the heads. I didn't know the heads were dedicated. Anyway. Excellent...
I waited so long to buy a clip remover. Now i use it nearly every job. 10 bucks for a nice craftsman at lowes.
Another reason to keep my 04 silverado with a 5.3 200k miles and runs great Im replacing valve cover gaskets now
Smart Man! Thinking about buying a 02
Great videos! You’re always very explicative: from your Terminator Cobra vids to this one on a Yukon.
Happened to us, truck sitting in back yard for 2yrs! Getting parts now!
I feel your pain.
i really really appreciate the effort you put into making this video. I'm learning ayelooot rn
Great job, nice step by step and great camera work,it is always hard to get clear views! As a note when using a crow's foot it should used at 90 deg to get the correct torque, without doing some additional math if other than 90 degrees. Thanks again for your work here.
Where’s the class action lawsuit?? GM needs to be FORCED to fix this issue!!!!
they won a court case....... so they dont have to do shit
@@johndonovan7018they didn’t win anything. They convinced plaintiffs to go into arbitration. So they are settling with some individuals outside of court, which kills the class action suit.
GM had a few of those dismissed on the argument design flaws are not manufacturing flaws. i think that was in alabama. as i said multiple of these so outcomes will vary but they are yet to actually lose@@hackershack23
Yup, just cost me 6k yesterday.
6k is a lot, smells like dealer. 4-5k gets you nice parts upgrade with AFM delete. stock job is 3-4k. thats with labor and all. 1500-2000 in parts if you do labor yourself, possibly cheaper. i havent looked at prices in 10 months or so@@lespauljunky74
DJ… I have to say a huge Thank you for this video… I would never attempt this technical of a fix without your ability to technically communicate the process step by step…
I’m ready to take my exhaust off so I can get the head off, but cannot get to the top flange bolt… I’ve watched your vid at least 20 times looking for a tip to get the long extension on the top side of the cat… I just can’t seem to get to it from the bottom, and I don’t have a 15mm socket on a small enough drive to clear the heat shield. I would be grateful for any advice - from you or your followers. Thank you!
It is pretty hard without a u joint. Do you have one like these (Amazon affiliate link) www.amazon.com/dp/B073PBM1WR/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_XBHQPQ2VFX8SBZ733Q15?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
I do brother… I think I’m trying to see if I should go on the tire side or the drive shaft side - but the best/only way is from underneath, correct? Thanks a MILLION for getting back to me so quickly!🙏🏼
@ I was able to to both best from under. Good luck 👍🏼
I love the amount of detail you put into this video
Thank for your video. I was getting ready to buy two LS. For one suburban and 62 Impala. I will definitely delete the AFM lifter issue. Thanks
My Silverado got the full delete like in this video and my truck runs great doesn't burn no oil at all also. Once tou do the full delete you have a great engine
Anyone performing the same engine repair of camshaft and lifters - also VERY GOOD IDEA to use your cellphone and take pictures BEFORE disassembly .
It's such a shame what GM has done to their once badass V8s. The damage to this engine is insane. GM knows this is an issue and how do they fix it? They DONT. they keep making the same old junk V8s. So sad.
I agree. I so wanted a new GM truck. If only you could order one with no DOD - dead on demand engine.
Their design is genius, this is what happens when you run cheap gas and your detonation is delayed because of low octane fuel when switching from v4/v8.. always use premium from the jump. Premium detergent if available, preferably.
Thank the hippies, not GM
That’s what happens when you hire a liberal woman to be CEO.
Same here , I wanted a new semi many years ago , finally got into the position to do that and they ruined the diesel with epa regs. , so I decided to downgrade to a new pick up in 07 , I wore that one out almost , now I need a new one , but they dont build them worth buying nowadays . I'm bummed ..guess I'll look at horses to drive ..😢😂
Mil gracias a todos que hicieron posible este video todo esta a tiempo bello y instructivo mil gracias dios los bendiga sienpre sigue adelante sigan enseñando así 🙏
Estoy feliz que lo encontraste. Bien suerte amigo
This is so complete, UA-cam should be required to destroy all other versions.
There are a lot of unnecessary steps doesn't hurt to do those steps just not really necessary
Thanks man.. you made this process a breeze.. just a regular joe trying to save a dollar
Love this video. I been a GM Fan most of my adult life. I say this with great pain my next truck will be Ford or Toyota.
I bought the last year of the V8 Toyota Tundra. I’d wait to see how the v6 twin turbo is going. I’m hearing some hiccups
Excellent teardown video and narrative!
60,000 Views and only 60 comments ? Excellent ! Excellent Video ! Ego - Less !
Your videos are great! Really wish you had one for replacing fuel injectors. Wife’s 2016 Denali has a bad one I think. I don’t know where to start but think I could do it with your step by step videos. Keep it up!
They are very difficult on this model because they are in so tight. It is hard to remove the fuel rail, they have o rings to deal with, and they will have a lot of debris fall into the cylinders, so that’s why I left them alone. If you watch the “Sundae drive” channel he has some more info on them
I just did this job my self, let me know and I can guide you
watch. watch wes work.. 1 yr ago.. you need all new everything. like 1,300$.. is the car worth it. took him 3 goes to get it right. parts cannon.. anything you take off, cant re use..
@@harrywalker968 it's a 2016 Denali, what do you mean is it worth it?
SWEET Video dude. real Thorough about the work. AND its alot of work !
I had no idea this job was that involved. I'm currently using the range technology device to keep my Yukon in V8 mode until I'm brave enough to attempt this......
I wouldn’t until you have to. If you have v4 turned off it would most likely see a misfire from the dod lifters rather than a bent pushrod, so just let it ride until you have trouble (my thought)
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok I'll wait then. I just figured preventive maintenance for this would be better than when it actually goes disabling the vehicle and having to get a tow. I'm currently @ 115k on my 2015.
My son had a tuned as he called it for v8 only. I told him the same thing. You still have the DOD lifters. They will fail.
@@flatliners2011 I have 142K on my 2015, no sign of trouble. Truck has been perfect since day one. minus the safety recall BS.
My suburban has been sitting in the garage for 4 months now. Dealer said bad lifter and cam. 254k miles. Quoted me $10k for a lifter and cam replacement or $16k for a new motor. Don't have that kind of cash available at the moment. I'm a reasonably handy guy, I've done a lot of alternators, steering pumps, water pumps, starters, brakes, hubs etc, just nothing this big. Your video makes this repair look.. easy isn't the word.. Straight forward, that's it. My question is, can there be other things wrong in there that I may run into that are related to the issue? Also, I'm up in the SLC area.. Do you know anyone up here that could to the reprogramming?
It’s a tough one. You may be best off dropping in a new engine for the cost. It depends on how bad it was for the lifter, if it broke apart and put metal throughout the engine. With the milage the cam bearing may also be worn. You’ll see all the new parts I installed that should help in the end like the vacuum pump (which is said to also put metal in the engine if it fails). There is also the risk of parts breaking if you have rust in your area. I would say at this point you could tear it down as the video shows and see what you find, then decide if it’s worth getting a new short block and reuse your heads. Then you’ll need to really look as the heads as they get so gunked up. There is a cost of taking them to a machine shop with the milage. I struggled with this decision because I would put another engine in which could have bad lifters again.
10k??? Where I'm at i got quoted 3500 with the cost of the delete kit included and tuning.
@@minipeppers6928 Parts alone were $3500.. Not sure who gave you that quote, but that's insanely low. I actually ended up just getting a remanufactured motor installed. $13500. Got the AFM delete motor. Runs better than it ever has.
Excellent instruction. Thank you
EXCELLENT
Thorough explanation
Great filming
Want u 2 work on my engine
Keepem coming
Blows my fucking mind they are still selling tons of vehicles with this system. I recommended the 6.2 to my stepdad and I can see this coming already
I understand it’s even gotten worse from AFM (active fuel management
)to DFM (dynamic fuel management) with more collapsible lifters and failures before the customers have even purchased them new.
Awesome video. Great camera, lighting and audio. I really thought I would have to pull my engine but you clarified that isn't necessary. Can you comment on leaving the original oil pump installed? I have read it should be replaced with lower pressure version to eliminate excessive oil being sprayed on cylinder walls when not utilized by the AFM system. You mentioned leaving the old pump in place and just curious if that is ok? Thanks again!
The oil pump is a bit tricky. Removing it would require pulling the engine (or at least lifting the engine enough to drop the oil pan. Then on installation it has to be perfectly centered or you can lose oil pressure. There are also oil lines in the pan with seals that have to line up just right. My understanding is the pump is a variable flow pump to allow more or less for the DOD and if you leave the stock one it continues to regulate to the normal oil pressure, just not needing to fluctuate since it’s more constant flow without the DOD. Mine has maintained the same oil pressure as before the procedure. I would definitely contact Brian Tooley racing about the pump as well as they have been super helpful.
Dep driveway degreaser and concrete cleaner works very well for cleaning gasket and carbon from heads amazingly. Very slightly corrosive on the alumium just enough to do a deap clean of any oxydized aluminum residue.
The camera angles are good
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
what are symptoms of feilure of cams and lifters??
@@ferganibelkacem4889 you will hear a squeaking sounds, get misfires from a bent pushrod, or hear a ticking. Here is an example: Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv
ua-cam.com/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/v-deo.html
I have the repair manual but it is unclear how to make all those changes so Thank you for your videos. I can share the digital file is super large but I am sure you have it too.
You are beautiful man thank you for this gym. I was trying to figure out how to get that alternator bracket out look at everywhere under the sun and the only information but it was viable came from yourself dusty brother happy wrenching.
Great video I’m going to start this project soon.
All makes that have done a variation of cylinder deactivation has had problems I wonder why?
Why keep pushing it?
Are you a mechanic by trade? You made this look easy
I’ve just practiced over the years and making tutorials helps me research and present it as accurately as possible. Just hoping to help others in my same situation
Always great videos!
Why use the shorter Chromoly Pushrods on a stock valvetrain components?
BTR told me to do so because they are LS7 lifters. According to them, they require 7.80” over factory 7.85”
Excellent DIY video. Kind of makes you brave enough to give it a go. Curious, what was the deciding factor for you to decide to do this? Was it just the DoD delete, or the noise, or were there any codes thrown?....never mind, I see below you have answered my queries already.
Looking at doing a full AFM/DOD delete on my truck. Checking to see what Extra gaskets etc would be needed: exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, HP fuel lines, HPFP gasket, head gaskets, water pump gaskets, valve cover gaskets, injector seals (if injectors are removed), crank pulley bolt, vacuum pump gasket (if removed), VLOM cover/gasket, timing cover gasket/rtv, cam-phaser bolt, cam plate/cover, and HPFP cam follower.
Crankshaft holder tool. Oil pump alignment tools (if pump is removed).
Does this sound about right?
Yes. I have a lot of the list in the video description, as well as one I show in this video
ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.htmlsi=zSrT7ES0dRjptKsK
i was scrolling some other video’s and came across your second part and watched it as well. Appreciate the info and how-to steps!
great video. Would this procedure be the same for L84?
Yes, identical. Double check torque specs
Thank you...definitely needed this
awesome video, super detailed,
Great video and tutorial. I hope I can print a copy of the transcript. Just an observation; it looked like(time:13:24-14:38) the exhaust manifold, on both sides, had a crack at bolts between cylinders 3&5 and 4&6. Wondering if that would effect DOD lifter performance. Thoughts?
The manifold are made that way to my knowledge. There are slit reliefs there and on some of the bolt holes as I remember
great job. what is the average cost to have this done?
Here is a breakdown How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado
ua-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/v-deo.html
Excellent job 👏 👍 👌
Awesome and detailed video!
Valve lifter oil pan must be connected when DOD is removed
Thanks for your videos man I'm new to the newer motors with dod on them an I had to buy a 2014 gmc it's all good but I'd like to get into it before it's not good anymore tho lol
It’s a big job, so I’d just keep an eye on it and as soon as you have problems jump on it. Be familiar with it.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm going to do it soon it's got 155k on the truck was naver run hard at all like I run one just shocked me how different thay are to before the dod stuff iv looked up alot on it tho definitely like your more detailed videos you should try an get money off UA-cam for your videos alot of people do
That timing chains a real bugger if it falls off the bottom..any pointers on getting that back were it belongs?
Great Job on the content.
Maybe you had mentioned this, how many miles before you began to notice the lifters squeaking? Did you turn off DOD ever? If yes, when did you turn this off compared to when lifters failure began to take place?
This was a normal lifter failure, not a DOD one. I had not turned dod off. It had 94,000 miles at the time of the lifter failure.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Just curious what type/brand of oil you were using? I have read that oil contamination or fouling due to oil quality or not changing regularly can contribute to this problem.
@@bobbromm2269 I do believe it is a huge factor where GM has extended the time between oil changes. I was even running full synthetic and changing at 30% oil life left. It was a regular lifter that failed on mine. I believe the fact the system uses oil pressure in the small holes of the dod lifters that contamination can be a cause for their failure GM DOD/AFM Lifters operation explained, failures, how to delete. Why GM engines fail 5.3L 6.2L
ua-cam.com/video/gEcxI2nwwxE/v-deo.html
What a complicated pile of junk.. the vehicle WAS a premium priced vehicle and should not need this job. This is why i drive pre 1980 cars and my wife drives a Hyundai.. they dont brake down or need this job.
AFM Ls engines are useless.i could have removed the engine from any of my cars in the same this took.
Great video sir and well done.looks like you have done this before.
Steve in Australia
@@stevedriver1476 I love my 2000 Silverado. This has been disappointing. I have 2 Toyotas and my Silverado now Why I traded my GMC Yukon for a Toyota Sequoia
ua-cam.com/video/cNm9rtx0GHQ/v-deo.html
Excellent Danny. Ty
Great video I just don’t understand all the different colored marker lines everywhere ? Even when you have timing marks from factory that shows correct timing references. Thanks
Yes, that’s just me being over cautious with some reference points since I cannot see the crank timing mark with the oil pump installed. In the end, the arrow points down and if the crank has not moved (and is locked with the tool as you see in the video) you should be in good shape
Did you have to pry pretty hard to get the chain to come off?
Yeah, may be best to look into a good removable chain link and attachment alternative.
I’m about to start on my L87 any differences you may think off that may help me on this journey! Thanks for the great video
@@edvardotovar3266 i believe the cam phaser is different, and may not have as much luck waking the chain off the cam gear. If you have Dynamic Fuel management instead of active fuel management (DFM vs AFM) it may have more collapsible lifters
Fantastic job explaining everything and showing it clearly. How did you know for sure it was required?
Mine was actually having noise from a bad lifter (see link below), and I wanted to delete the four-cylinder mode before it failed and bent a push rod
ua-cam.com/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/v-deo.htmlsi=GCExGDUvqmIUlqmv
Thank you for the kind words as well.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you recommend just do the lifters or whole dod
@@jasondecluebass1012 I would say full DOD since it’s not much more work and the dod lifters are prone to failure
doesnt matter if p/rods ect are in order or not.. unless wear or damaged.. why TDC. the lifters are not solid.??... is this vid for 15 yr olds that know nothing about modern engines, like, clips. torque, too much info..knowing the faults with chev engines,,why buy one..@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Clearly the best video on removing the chain from the vvt gear. Question: was anything used to flush metal from the engine?
In video 2 you’ll see where we check the passages, and dumped oil over some of the engine (you could even dump oil down through the valley). We also removed the filter screen in video 2 and luckily did not find any metal pieces. ua-cam.com/video/nB6fOblDBNQ/v-deo.htmlsi=ikjqwAJ55R_GfVuF
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage nice ty
I kinda feel like it also. I replaced the spark plugs and it ran much better. Now it’s showing multiple misfire code without any responsible cylinder. It idles better but not like it used to.I’ll have to keep on fishing. I saw a code tool on Summit racing that deletes the AFM but not sure if it’s too late for me and worth it. I’m not going to keep the Yukon much longer because we don’t drive it anymore
Where you located my friend
After watching you do it , i think im gonna throw away my Ls motor and go old school 350 , i thought i was ready to venture into the new way , until i seen this ..i dont think i can change , i like my oil pump where it was , with two bolts on the pick up tube, never did like that distrubutor , that drives the oil pump through the gear on the end of the cam ...that oil pump on that motor... , i dont want anything to do with that , i suppose there's a special tool to center it ( expensive tool , one-time use tool ? ) can i modify a front engine/timing cover (drill holes in a spare one ) to align that oil pump ?
You can take the cover off the oil pump and center it with feeler gauges, but it’s all a mess. I heard installing a new pump is fine, but you can’t reach the harness without removing the oil pan
This is not an LS...its an LT....Direct injection....
Current doing mines myself 140k miles on my car and lifter went bad..
Good luck. It’s a big job for sure!
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Wow great job!!
Ok, here's the thing... my AFM is functional and I want to just swap out my stock camshaft for a stage 2 without pulling off the heads or doing anything else, is that possible? I just want to open the front and swap the cams.... then worry about the heads and lifters when I have more money
It isn’t possible because you will need different lifters for the different camshaft, and the lifters are riding on the camshaft. Even if you removed the rockers and pushrods, the cam won’t come out with the lifters on it, and the heads have to come off to take the lifters out. That’s my understanding. Maybe someone had come up with a work around, but I doubt it.
I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado where can I get the parts I'm only finding 2014
I’d call Brian Tooley racing and ask them to walk you through it. It depends on how much you want to do and upgrade, 5.3 and 6.2
What did you use for the soft tip when pushing against the timing chain tensioner?
It was a magnetic telescoping tool, but I was using the handle end
How much damage has been done to all the bearings ?
The cam bearings didn’t show any damage on the cam. You’ll see the lifters caught some debris and the lifter filter was empty
just curious, windex on connectors and not like silicone spray?
Yeah, anything to break up the dirt and debris, just not a lot of anything
Is this 4x4 ? If not is it gonna be same how you did with the 2019 ESCALADE 6.2L 4x4? Thank you ⁉️
This is 4x4 on the Denali. Should be the same 6.2l and everything as the Escalade. 2019 may have a different cam phaser as you’ll see the cam bolt I show later in the video series
Do you have a link for the pushrods? Will these parts work on 2015 silverado?
Brian tooley racing has the pushrods. I’d verify with them on the length and if it’s 5.3 or 6.2. Make sure all the parts work well together
Do you know if there was a class action lawsuit against this problem? Seems like GM should've issued a recall.
I think there was and you can submit repair costs for compensation. I need to look into it more myself
I live in cedar City. Do you have someone you would recommend in the area that would do good work and is reasonably priced for this DOD delete?
Is the oil pressure sensor on the valley cover I’m new to the ls stuff
You’ll see it in video 2
Is it called a flywheel or is it a flex plate?
Flexplate for the automatic would be the correct term
Why did you remove the starter ?
The flywheel holding tool you see later in the video locks the crank in place to brake free the crankshaft bolt and more importantly, holds the crank at top dead center. You won’t see the timing dot on the crankshaft so it’s crucial to hold the crank in place for the timing to be correct on installation ua-cam.com/video/zD2qEaAZNJQ/v-deo.htmlsi=tYtRTSjXrsBXLWxf
When doing a delete do I need to use a different cam shaft if the original is not damaged?
@@ELTURBOMAN yes, it requires the non-dod camshaft
Why is gm not making this right?
Because they have to pay the CEO Marra. $24M per year!!
@@grouchosays - $4 per car sold.
If all gm vehicles from 2015 to 2020 has the AFM problem why don’t GM makes a recall to fix this issue if it’s been going on for years I just spend almost $10k fixing my 2016 Escalade esv cylinder 4 because of this issue had the dealer change lifters,camshaft cylinder valves gasket,come on @GM do something about it
Awful
I see that you have the Cam Shaft from an L8T 6.6L GEN V LT. Any part reason for that over a Texas Speed OEM Cam?
It was the cam BTR had for sale, and I was looking for a stock replacement as not to change anything on the valve springs etc. I wanted it to be as close to factory as possible so that’s what they had.
Outstanding job and detail sir…
What position should I leave the hole for the lifters?
I have always heard it doesn’t matter for the regular lifters. You’ll see how the dod lifters come out and they have arrows. It may be in video 2