Hey Primo, just caught this Vid, necromancing while doing admin work for the business. Thanks. I still put 1/2 masking tape on my body lines since I cannot be trusted to not sand down the sharp line 🤣🤣 Blue Mule
Great job Pharraway, it's always nice to see someone block primer the way it should be done I do it the same way but also use guide coat before each grit on the DA, my old eyes are not so good these days so want to make sure I remove all the sanding scratches from the blocking, subscribed to your channel 👍 John UK.
Good work as always Pharraway. The Black Widow gun in the video looks to be slow? Thanks for every video you have put out. All good stuff! The older black chevy you just did looks soooo good! Phillip Hall
Collision repair today is $2000 clear per week for five days work. Sometimes twice or three times that depending on type of cars you work with. But it requires years of skill building and dedication to the trade. I e worked in several body shops and the bosses can make over 200k per year usually in high volume shops. It’s a money maker!
@@MrCbell57 just do some cars in the side. One car a month you can charge 5000-10,000k from start to finish, while working your job at the shop. It’s a money maker. A big one if you use your head.
Anytime you see a shiny area you’ve already gone to far on the blocking. You will always have a high and a low area. But I cannot believe so many shops or garages have their compressor running right next to workers. They are loud and the noise is distracting not only for videos but for you. lol I always put the compressors outside or in another area of shop further away. It’s so much nicer to not have the irritating loud churning noise of em coming on and running all the time. I work in a body shop so I’m doing this all day long. 10 hours of blocking daily. Thanks. Good job explaining to those who are just getting started.
EXCELLENT VIDEO,, I HAVE A DOOR IS ARE READY SAND IT , AND IS A LITLE METAL HIGTH OVER, REALLY SMALL, I JUST HIT IT DOWN AND APPLY BONDO OR IS ANOTHER WAY TO DOIT, THANK YOU
I did a fiberglass truck lid and blocked between 400,600 and 800. Still missed a bunch of low spots. If you happen to have a low spot where you didn’t spray guide you will miss those low spots. In the beginning I could feel some and knew they were there but the ones I missed I couldn’t feel. I did float a layer of water on it but should of backed up and checked. I was to close. So much to learn.
What would you recommend when confronted with some rotted thru areas on window channel on a chevy suburban. I heard there some kind of 3M Product you apply hard as steel? Thank you ! Rich
I sprayed Speedokote 2k primer. mix ration on can. It was like setting up in the gun, had to keep clearing the needle hole with my glove. sprayed dry even turning down air pressure and fan adjust didn't seem to help. turned out really ruff. Any experience like that?
What if you hit the metal like you see in the video with 220 sand paper can i go back over it again with primer surfacer over the 220 scratches and block again until i dont see any metal showing then go to 320 and so on?
Looks Great ! Can you comment on why some are against spray bombs and some have no issue with spray bombs for the guide coat. Thanks......As always thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I bought those durablocks for my restoration. Multiple types too. Now everyone says they're inferior. Seems like they work fine to me in this video🤷♂️. I haven't used mine yet...
I have primed and block sanded and guide coated my car 3 times and I am confident that it is very straight. What do you do if there are some very, very, very small edges that got sanded through to bare metal. They are so small they are the width of a small needle. Do you get out the primer gun, mix a little bit more primer and try to spot prime those very small areas. It seems like I am going to be chasing my tail when it comes to these very mall break throughs to metal. Any input would be appreciated and thanks!
Thank you for the video very informative alway like the block sanding side , by the way I don't here the rooster anymore what have you done with him he is a major part of your channal Stay safe pharraway love your channel
I have a couple of questions. I was blocking my car out in 320 with dura blocks thanks for the tip on those super handy with all the different sizes and shapes. I had a whole bunch of spots that came through metal or through to the filler. I think I didn't put enough high build primer on. Should I etch the bare metal spots than re prime the whole thing since there were so many spots? I realize your time is valuable and you already share so much so if you would prefer to private message me and I can pay for a consultation. Thanks again.
I love you videos. Qq: when to use self etching vs DTM primer? I am about to spray my hood at home and it needs to be taken to metal as paint is very bad. Great work!!!!!
Looking good. Questions for you about a couple of things. I was surprised that you used nitrostan under the paint like that - I know you'll put a sealer on but nitrostan is really nothing but a thick lacquer primer. I was told to always use a hardened polyester. And on the small areas that were a little high, you just let those be? No problem just wasn't sure if we missed anything there. Last - what grit paper do you recommend on plastic body components where the paint needs to be removed and feathered? Thank you!
@@PHARRAWAY but then you would guide coat and go over with 180/220 makes it much faster try it.... and it would remove scratches which your trying to do makes sense
Quick question When you go through to metal like this on some areas and you spray sef etching primer, do you sand it before you spray the sealer or is not necessary?
What do you do about the spot that have no guide coat on it? What if there happens to be a low spot in the same place that the guide coat didn’t direct hit? You know what I’m saying? Thanks
Una pregunta de todas las pistolas que tienes cual te gusta mas para basecoat dv1, ls400 o alguna otra que tengas estoy por comprarme una para uso exclusivo de basecoat solamente
I am very appreciative of your skill and sharing. I have a question that I am curious about. I see most air spraying to remove dust from sanding, grinding. Would it be more environmentally safe, healthier and economical to have dust extractors like wood shops (vacuum cleaners)? Just curious and again thank you for a great video. I hope to try your method out soon on a trunk lid.
Hi, interesting video...I have one question: the can you're using as a guide coat is a normal matt black acrylic paint or is a product specifically designed just as guide coat?Thanks
@@PHARRAWAY Hi... just to clarify better... your reply saying "that is correct" refers to the fact that you're using a normal spray paint or it's a sprayable guide coat product? Thank you again
Hey bro I cant find sealer here in Australia, apparently they don't use a sealer but use adhesion promoter and it only comes in aerosol cans , thats what a pro painter said to me. It doesn't make sense to me... Wtf.
is some stuff he should have mentioned like when you masking for primer you want to hardline everything the opposite of when you are painting and damn whoever did the Bondo didn't do the best job flattening when I'm blocking primer I almost never run into areas that low but if course all our body techs have been doing here for 30 years
Well done Pharraway...keep bringing the info
Thanks will do
Keep sharing your knowledge with the people... its appreciated
Thank you Grant
He'll yeah, sanding, and more sanding! Good info about the interface pad, everyone should do.
thats brother
Thank you brother. Covered exactly what I needed to know.
Excellent video!!!!
Thank You
Learn something new every lesson. Tools to materials and techniques. Look forward to your next video. Thx 🙏🇺🇸
Thanks and God Bless
Hey Primo, just caught this Vid, necromancing while doing admin work for the business. Thanks. I still put 1/2 masking tape on my body lines since I cannot be trusted to not sand down the sharp line 🤣🤣
Blue Mule
Great video! Very Informative!
Great job Pharraway, it's always nice to see someone block primer the way it should be done I do it the same way but also use guide coat before each grit on the DA, my old eyes are not so good these days so want to make sure I remove all the sanding scratches from the blocking, subscribed to your channel 👍 John UK.
Thank you and stay safe
Thank you sir, you stay safe also, once again the UK is in total lockdown but I hope you are fearing better! John.
Good work as always Pharraway. The Black Widow gun in the video looks to be slow? Thanks for every video you have put out. All good stuff! The older black chevy you just did looks soooo good!
Phillip Hall
Auto Body is a great trade wish it payed better .
I did this trade and everything about it is hazardous to your health. Painting cars sucks
Collision repair today is $2000 clear per week for five days work. Sometimes twice or three times that depending on type of cars you work with. But it requires years of skill building and dedication to the trade. I e worked in several body shops and the bosses can make over 200k per year usually in high volume shops. It’s a money maker!
@@MrCbell57 just do some cars in the side. One car a month you can charge 5000-10,000k from start to finish, while working your job at the shop. It’s a money maker. A big one if you use your head.
It's really satisfying to watch the primer cover the putty and metal! Watching it go from rough to nice!
now that is true
Thank you brother gave me a better perspective on block sanding 👍
anytime
Great video bro keep the informative content coming!
thanks
Anytime you see a shiny area you’ve already gone to far on the blocking. You will always have a high and a low area. But I cannot believe so many shops or garages have their compressor running right next to workers. They are loud and the noise is distracting not only for videos but for you. lol I always put the compressors outside or in another area of shop further away. It’s so much nicer to not have the irritating loud churning noise of em coming on and running all the time. I work in a body shop so I’m doing this all day long. 10 hours of blocking daily. Thanks. Good job explaining to those who are just getting started.
Was the primer that you used was it epoxy primer??
EXCELLENT VIDEO,, I HAVE A DOOR IS ARE READY SAND IT , AND IS A LITLE METAL HIGTH OVER, REALLY SMALL, I JUST HIT IT DOWN AND APPLY BONDO OR IS ANOTHER WAY TO DOIT, THANK YOU
Good stuff boss! Great demo
thanks so much for this video - so very, very useful. even just the section showing you sand is golden for helping understand technique.
Glad it was helpful!
keep on enjoying your profession and thank you sharing your knowledge.
anytime thanks
Great tutorial. Keep up the outstanding work 👍🏻
Excellent instructional vids!
Thanks
I did a fiberglass truck lid and blocked between 400,600 and 800. Still missed a bunch of low spots. If you happen to have a low spot where you didn’t spray guide you will miss those low spots. In the beginning I could feel some and knew they were there but the ones I missed I couldn’t feel. I did float a layer of water on it but should of backed up and checked. I was to close. So much to learn.
A big thumbs up! Great work and attention to detail as always.
Thank you very much!
Very very well done video brother thank you for your video’s I no they are a great help to beginners and expert body and paint guys and gals.
I appreciate that!
Wepa well done keep up the good work
Thanks
Awesome video as always. Really enjoying these how to video's. Keep up the great content and thank you.👍
Glad you like them!
best prep paint video ive seen so far Excellent keep them coming
Excelente video hermano y muy buenos materiales, uso mucho los primer transtar y el guidecoat lo uso en polvo excelente. Saludos
Gracias amigo si son muy buenos
God BLESS You too, brother.
Good video
What would you recommend when confronted with some rotted thru areas on window channel on a chevy suburban.
I heard there some kind of 3M
Product you apply hard as steel?
Thank you !
Rich
Good video amigo saludos estoy aprendiendo
Saludos amigo
Great video! 🔥💯
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for showing this.
No problem!
nicely done sir...
Thank you! Cheers!
Muy bien. Eso es saber lijar perfectamente. Y detallar cómo se debe. Cuidas cada detalle. Me encanta mirar tus videos. Saludos.
saludos amigo y gracias
Learned something new thanks
anytime
Not sure why anyone uses a spray guide coat, a dry rub on is instantly ready to sand and doesn’t clog paper at all
Good stuff ,thanks
thanks for the video!
I sprayed Speedokote 2k primer. mix ration on can. It was like setting up in the gun, had to keep clearing the needle hole with my glove. sprayed dry even turning down air pressure and fan adjust didn't seem to help. turned out really ruff. Any experience like that?
What if you hit the metal like you see in the video with 220 sand paper can i go back over it again with primer surfacer over the 220 scratches and block again until i dont see any metal showing then go to 320 and so on?
Looks Great ! Can you comment on why some are against spray bombs and some have no issue with spray bombs for the guide coat. Thanks......As always thanks for sharing your knowledge.
some say that with the spray bombs you will use more sandpaper because it will clog up your paper but I have had no issues with that
I bought those durablocks for my restoration. Multiple types too. Now everyone says they're inferior. Seems like they work fine to me in this video🤷♂️. I haven't used mine yet...
I've only seen positive reviews about durablock
The only issue with spraying black paint as a guide coat it will ruin the sandpaper so quickly.
not if it's mat I had no issues
Been using black 2k primer myself , no guide coat needed you can see the imperfections
Good stuff use a long block on door
I have primed and block sanded and guide coated my car 3 times and I am confident that it is very straight. What do you do if there are some very, very, very small edges that got sanded through to bare metal. They are so small they are the width of a small needle. Do you get out the primer gun, mix a little bit more primer and try to spot prime those very small areas. It seems like I am going to be chasing my tail when it comes to these very mall break throughs to metal. Any input would be appreciated and thanks!
Após o lixamento preciso passar o primer novamente após reparar os defeitos que ficaram e o aço aparecendo????
Was that the harbor freight black widow gun you used to spray your Primer
Yes it was
Great video. Just wondering after you applied the blue body filler over the primer, would this need priming and blocking again? Thanks
Yes but just in that area
@@PHARRAWAY brilliant thanks for the quick reply
@@alisterjohnson2601 anytime
That’s the black widow spray gun from harbor freight. I was in there today looking at one. Are they good?
Thank you for sharing God Bless
Thank you for the video very informative alway like the block sanding side , by the way I don't here the rooster anymore what have you done with him he is a major part of your channal Stay safe pharraway love your channel
It's still there
I have a couple of questions. I was blocking my car out in 320 with dura blocks thanks for the tip on those super handy with all the different sizes and shapes. I had a whole bunch of spots that came through metal or through to the filler. I think I didn't put enough high build primer on. Should I etch the bare metal spots than re prime the whole thing since there were so many spots? I realize your time is valuable and you already share so much so if you would prefer to private message me and I can pay for a consultation. Thanks again.
yes it will be better to apply etch first then re prime
I prefer the dry powder but good job. Tip: gloss loads up the paper, use flat. Like you did.
What grit did u block sand the body filler , this is very important, because most people block the surrounded area and are back to square 1.
220 and then 320
I love you videos. Qq: when to use self etching vs DTM primer? I am about to spray my hood at home and it needs to be taken to metal as paint is very bad. Great work!!!!!
If you have DTM primer thats much better less work
@@PHARRAWAY blessings man! Thank you
THANK YOU!
No problem
Nice Job and nice Video With information what a Kompressor you use it IS from Kobalt ? Love the videos ❤️👍❤️
yes it's a kobalt 60 gal
@@PHARRAWAY perfect thank you ❤️
Damn!, you made that look easy, but I know if you really want a great paint job it takes a lot 3 work
yes it takes time
Tks for your sharing
anytime
Looking good. Questions for you about a couple of things. I was surprised that you used nitrostan under the paint like that - I know you'll put a sealer on but nitrostan is really nothing but a thick lacquer primer. I was told to always use a hardened polyester. And on the small areas that were a little high, you just let those be? No problem just wasn't sure if we missed anything there. Last - what grit paper do you recommend on plastic body components where the paint needs to be removed and feathered? Thank you!
Hi yes I have used that for a long time and never had any issues, I will use 400 grit to feather out the paint
Thank You as always for the content … Very much appreciated brother 🙏✌️
Thank You
Hi great vids , just wonded would 80 be faster then finish with 180/220 then re prime ? Thanks
yes but will leave a bunch of scratches that will have to come out
@@PHARRAWAY but then you would guide coat and go over with 180/220 makes it much faster try it.... and it would remove scratches which your trying to do makes sense
@@richreece8840 Sounds good got to try it
@@PHARRAWAY so much faster cuts faster
nice
Quick question
When you go through to metal like this on some areas and you spray sef etching primer, do you sand it before you spray the sealer or is not necessary?
No not necessary just apply your primer or sealer
Ty , Sir 👍✌💯
anytime
bro, how many sandpaper sizes did you sand the blue putty you applied after sanding the block?
3
What do you do about the spot that have no guide coat on it? What if there happens to be a low spot in the same place that the guide coat didn’t direct hit? You know what I’m saying? Thanks
Yes I do even if the guide coat did not hit that area you will still notice when sanding the rest of the area
we use charcoal at work for guide coat honestly works better then black bomb can
Awesome
After you 320 with interface pad and you put more filler to hit the low spots.. what grit did you use over them filler spots?
Started with 220 and 320
Still Waiting for the flg5 review.
it's coming brother need to get this truck out
Una pregunta de todas las pistolas que tienes cual te gusta mas para basecoat dv1, ls400 o alguna otra que tengas estoy por comprarme una para uso exclusivo de basecoat solamente
@@fernandosaldana3665 la iwata ls400
So on the door you went 80 gritvby hand, 220 grit by hand, 320 on the DA, 400 on the DA or by hand? Then its base coat ready?
yes
Why didn't you use LIke 90 ......PANEL check ?
I did but did not film it
I'm working on a 40 Ford Fender and it is like sanding a large egg! I was just wondering what would be the best block to use on something like that?
On that one go with a soft block brother
can you use an electric sander for the 320?
Yes you can
@@PHARRAWAY thx brotha
plz mak vdaio heng cliar katting
I am very appreciative of your skill and sharing. I have a question that I am curious about. I see most air spraying to remove dust from sanding, grinding. Would it be more environmentally safe, healthier and economical to have dust extractors like wood shops (vacuum cleaners)? Just curious and again thank you for a great video. I hope to try your method out soon on a trunk lid.
Yes it much better brother
Very good video! Question: Is it better to use DTM PRIMER or Can you use self etching primer & high build primer?
it will do the same thing so I will just go with DTM
Did you re prime where filler was applied?
Yes
you leave it with 320 with the da and it's ready for base or sealer then base?
no after the 320 I da it again with 400 and left it at 400
@@PHARRAWAY what sealer do you use?
Hi, interesting video...I have one question: the can you're using as a guide coat is a normal matt black acrylic paint or is a product specifically designed just as guide coat?Thanks
That is correct
@@PHARRAWAY Hi... just to clarify better... your reply saying "that is correct" refers to the fact that you're using a normal spray paint or it's a sprayable guide coat product? Thank you again
@@fulviosanna it's a normal matt spray can from Walmart but it has to be matt
@@PHARRAWAY Ok..thanks a lot, cheers!
@@fulviosanna Just use any cheap flat black rattle can paint.
Question? The evercoat 730 replaced the dtm high build? Thx
No not at all
Can't find evercoat edge dtm high build on their website. Where do you buy it. Your link on video took me to evercoat 730. Thx
@@godfamilycountry4211 oh wow here at my local ppg store they have a lot of it let me check
Ok thx my friend.
Do you use different sealers for different jobs or same sealer on everything??
they do have different color sealers but gray is universal for any color
Perfect
I heard you mentioned putting puddy on some area, and then using body filler. Isn't body filler and puddy the same thing?
There a bit different, putty will not use activator will body filler will brother
@@PHARRAWAY Thanks for clearing that up. I’m still new to these things.
@@Mocredible anytime brother
Hey what tip did you use for that primer? I've been reading 1.8 is good for primer. 1.4 for base coat, and 1.3 for clear. What do you use?
I have a 1.9 for primer a 1.2 for clear and a 1.3 for base
❤
What is the sealer you put on before you painted
Its primer but super reduced so that I can get all the car to a uniform color
Hey bro I cant find sealer here in Australia, apparently they don't use a sealer but use adhesion promoter and it only comes in aerosol cans , thats what a pro painter said to me. It doesn't make sense to me... Wtf.
wow that is bad
@@PHARRAWAY yeah man
I think they call it wet on wet primer is Australia
@@andrewybarra2304 no i dont think so. Even so nothing comes up. There are only aerosols!
@@brunoburtoni8479 have u tried going to a automotive paint store?
what gun and size tip would u recommend for single stage
a 1.3 tip
@@PHARRAWAY thanks what gun do u use i dnt want to run single stage in my dv1 lol
Which body filler do you use over primer when you find a low spot block sanding?
Right now I'm using evercoat
@@PHARRAWAY Which evercoat? There is a bunch of different kinds.
@@johnnynorthcutt345 I use evercoat lite weight
@@PHARRAWAY Thank you
@@johnnynorthcutt345 anytime
How much pressure are you using with the block sanders?
33psi
@@PHARRAWAY lol good answer
Is 320 grit good enough on final blocking poly before 2k restoration?
no your best deal is 400 grit
What brand is that little palm DA?
It's a husky
@@PHARRAWAY Are you sure it's a DA? Husky only makes an orbital palm sander. Is it 6 or 5 inch?
@@stevewarren3051 yes it's a 6''
Where are you located ?
Texas
is some stuff he should have mentioned like when you masking for primer you want to hardline everything the opposite of when you are painting and damn whoever did the Bondo didn't do the best job flattening when I'm blocking primer I almost never run into areas that low but if course all our body techs have been doing here for 30 years
😍😍😍😍😍
Good video but I recommend watching it in 1.5x speed
YOUR EFFORT IS GREATLY APPRECIATED; pjp