Great comparison for the various configurations for a hand installation tool. Great way to install rivet nuts when you can't get a spin spin tool or plier tool to fit the application. Well done!
I agree with previous comment about using a thrust washer but I would add that you should grease the threads to prevent galling and make it thread easier. Great video, thanks.
What would a thrust washer do? I watched a couple videos and read a thing about thrust washers but I still don't understand what it would do here Thanks
@@jeffa847 Jeff, using a thrust washer is essentially putting ball bearings between the nut used for crushing the rivnut and the rivnut making the nut roll it’s way tighter instead of scraping against the nut to tighten it. It makes tightening the assembly easier and smoother. I hope that makes sense.
@@davidt8438 Yeah I think I see. So the thrust washer is made in such a way that there is less friction on both sides than a regular washer would have? I saw one video where they were using a thrust washer with copper(?) brass(?) - it was some kind of softer metal - and that didn't really make sense in this application. Thanks so much for your response
Thanks for the information. If my tool breaks, I would definitely try the 1st or the 3rd method that you effectively demonstrated. Much appreciated, keep up the good work.
A very useful video, thanks! I’ve used rivnuts for many years and have used a couple of kits with the pliers type installation tool, which are OK for smaller sizes, or the softer aluminium ones. For the larger sizes (above M6) this DIY type of tool works better because you can get more installation force. From personal experience I prefer the first method shown here because the bolt doesn’t turn in the rivnut during the installation so there’s less chance of damaging it, the rotation takes place between the threads of the installation bolt and the tube nut. If the rivnut thread does get damaged during installation you’ve completely wasted your time and will then waste even more time removing and replacing it (been there). Rivnuts which have loosened with use can also be reset with care using any of these methods but I’d always use the first one shown. 😊
When some idiot doesn't lube the threads ,and it's 5yrs later when you've got to get the fastener out but the whole thing spins....it'll make you wanna push it off a cliff and watch it burn.
@@MrTheHillfolk Yes, a few years ago I needed to take the body tub off the box section chassis of my kit car. It was held on by a number of factory fitted, 12mm rivnuts and one began to spin in the chassis when I tried to undo its screw. The only way to access the front of the rivnut was to take the body off….catch 22. I eventually managed to jam an old coarse file through the open end of the chassis tube which allowed me to put enough leverage on the rear of the rivnut to jam it and stop it spinning. Otherwise I would have had to cut the body tub apart in a critical area.since then I often seat a new rivnut with superglue in the hope that every little helps.
Thanks for the tutorial! I don't understand some guys put comments so negative, your demonstration is working so I like our comment "I think you are missing the point...". I was thinking buying the tool until someone from another video mentioned there are a better way using nut and bolt and spanners, I really like the third method with the impact driver, something any "real" DIY has in their toolbox.
The second way worked easy for me, the first way the washer spins. I used a couple of lug nuts, never needed a trip to the HW store. Ordered the rivet nuts on amazon. Thanks!!
thanks for uploading. Most of the times the tool gets in the way when you pull the handles apart when you work inside the engine compartment or trunk of a car. This is the proper way
Thanks. This was so useful. I would never have fitted the rear mudflaps to my land rover 200tdi 1991 Defender without this advice about the captive rivet nuts. 🎉
When you used the Nut Driver have you considered making a packing piece that will fit inside the Driver so you can use the Impact Driver to put pressure on the bolt head? Using a low profile socket may save having to make the packing piece to put inside the socket. The idea is to use the Drill or Impact Driver to help put pressure on the rivnut so it won't turn in the hole. I hope this makes sense. *Thank You* for the methods of "cinching" the rivnut up without needing a specific tool.
Great video, well explained and no waffle - I am doing an e-bike conversion and having to drill extra holes in my frame to accommodate the battery. It's pointless getting a tool, as I only need a couple of these fitting, so your video has been a REAL help. Thanks again
I've just found this channel. [Subscribe] clicked as a gesture of support and gratitude. I like the "how to manage without a special tool" approach. Spot on! Cheers. :)
Thanks. I will be using these shortly. If using method 2, a little oil on the thread might help...if I cant find a long nut as in method 1 (best it seems)
I tried to do 3mm rivnuts without the appropriate tool. So I found a pop rivet gun that I use the right insert for the gun, and a long enough all thread or long enough headless bolt in my case it was 3mm bolt that I cut the head off, it has to be quite long so the gun can have purchase on the thread and pull it thru, worked a treat!!
Si cortas la cabeza del tornillo y colocas una tuerca con dos arandelas entonces puedes ajustar sin que se dañe la rosca de la tuerca remachada. Posiblemente se desgaste la rosca del tornillo, pero en ese caso, lo cambias por otro y listo. Saludos desde Argentina.
Tried it. It works so long as the little ribs on the rivnut grab the hole rim. If not the nut spins and won't crush. The larger the rivnut (M10 etc) the more likely to spin as the force required to crush is greater than the friction between the metals. Make sure the hole is tight. You see some people pull the bolt down on an angle to get grip on the inner rim of the hole to get the crush going. My advice. Works for smaller nuts and make sure the hole is tight. For $69 I ended up just buying the tool for M10's (13mm).
Genau so wie es in der ersten Lösung gezeigt wird mache ich es auch. Zusätzlich fette ich das Gewinde und die Scheiben ein. Ich de denke, dass es die Reibung mindert. Ein Rollenlager würde ich mir erst besorgen, wenn ich eine 10mm-Hülse verbauen müsste.
Ahh rivnuts, the love hate fastener for projects. Love the easy install, hate them when someone didnt lubricate the threads and the bolt seizes in pkace and the whole rivnut spins. Theyve definitely ruined some fun during a project.
@@jeffa847 depends on how strong a connection you need in the part 3m structural adhesive is some wicked stuff ,if an adhesive could do it ,it would be that.
I've got a 3/8 16 riv- nut without a crush area and it's steel, neither method worked and stripped the theads out of the nut, so I juth bought a tool today and we will see.
Having done a van with rivnuts I’d never use any sort of rivnut tool that drives the bolt. This includes the fancy pneumatic drills. That method is a recipe for a spun rivnut, ask me how I know… Use the first method if space is tight or use the dual/single handle compression style both pull the rivnut instead of driving the bolt. If anyone knows any other “pull” style tools I’m all ears.
I possibly overlooked it but shouldn't a snug fitting hole be mentioned? The snugger the NutSert fits in that hole the easier it will tend to grip the hole all by itself. In other words the sloppier the hole the more difficult it will be for the NutSert to grip the hole. Capice? Wakodahatchee Chris
in another vid someone suggested a brass washer to spin a nut smooth in place of lube, (he didn't use tube nut but that looks better), so maybe a brass tube nut would be a good combo of yours, (tube), and the normal nut method
@@bison-gear i tried googling but didnt find anything specific to that name, are they the ones that have the sides that open up and then fold on themseles?
Option 1 Use a high tensile bolt. (Bolts may stretch and fail if not high tensile, that may be why the first time you tried to spin the tube nut onto the bolt it jammed) Use a socket with an extension, plus a solid T bar you can push against on the end of the bolt
Well I did the first on n I got nothing out of it. I kept tightening n nothing. I used the rivet nut tool jet n after a few of them going in,it started to get really tight to push together. The other one didn’t tighten at all. I also ask the store personnel’s to show me what I’m doing wrong. But still got know where. So now I’m looking to get the rivet nut drill kit. Like why can’t I just get the holes in my van fully filled in to get my walls up?
Hi Deloris, the assumption that I can make from your description is that the holes in your van might be a bit too big for the rivnuts that you are inserting. They can therefore not grip properly when crushed together. I hope this helps a bit.
Check to see if the rivnut is a steel one or aluminum made one because the steel rivnuts are much harder to compress . Go to Harbour freight because they have the kit but they also sell a rivnut tool for under 20.00 that has 2 long handles on it that can handle the steel rivnut with no problems verses the cheap tool that comes in the kit .
For method #3, does it have to be an impact driver or will a good electric screwdriver do as well? Thanks for the vid by the way! I really liked that you compared the three methods.
If your electric screwdriver has enough torque it could work, but mostly to start crushing the rivnut you might need that impact action. I'm glad you found it helpful, thanks for your support!👌🏻
i noticed it looks like a tile being used for demo. do you think carbon fiber is as strong as that tile? how much pressure is put on the material or is most of it on the rivnut itself being squeezed?
can rivnuts be used to make bolt holes smaller? like if i have a m8 bolt but the bolt hole is more like m10 can i use a m8 rivnut in the hole so i can use the m8 bolt. since using a bigger bolt isnt really feasible in my application and i dont have the skill to weld the bolt hole closed and drill it to the correct m8 size.
Preferably not, the rivnut will not grip properly in that application. I would recommend ising a repair sleeve. It's a sleeve with thread on the inside and outside. Usually used to repair damaged thread , but can be used when the hole is too big as well. Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
The two washers helps to reduce the friction between the tubenut and the face of the rivnut. You can also put a little grease or oil between the washers to reduce the friction even more.
I also prepared everything, but I did not get any results. Because the rivet nut of all the washers and the support nut was rotating and it was not fixed and riveted in the hole, and no matter what I did, I did not succeed.
I didn't have suitable nuts and had only small standard nut, so I failed spectacularly as that small nut shredded the bolt threads xD Got a cheap tool from nearest home improvement store, and it failed even worse! Because I have stainless steel rivnut... and there's not enough strength in the world to sqeeze the handles of the cheap tool as these handles are just too short and mechanism doesn't amplify your force unlike better tool which that store didn't have....
That sounds a very unpleasant experience! The best advice I can give is to use tube nuts and hard bolts or perhaps extend the handles of the tool you already have, to see if that helps crunching the rivnuts. I hope you find an appropriate solution. Thanks for your support! 👌
Great comment, I always wondered about those two factors. You need a long coupling nut to distribute the friction on theads, and you don't want stainless unless necessary because the wall of the rivnut needs to easily collapse.
It may be that the stainless rivets have higher strength and thus require more power. Second problem: Stainless steel tends to seize. Then you won't get any further. Therefore, in this case, the thread and the face must be lubricated.
@@cowboy7645 Yeah stainless is definitely much harder from material itself, so many one-hand tools won't really be able to actually handle that, getting a tool for wrench/screwdriver solved the issue for me
HELP. Can someone tell me why my rivnut won't grab and set(expand) in the hole? I drilled a 3/8 hole, trying to put M6 rivnut but it won't set. Do I need more pressure?
Yes, the hole you have seems obviously too big, I am hammering my M6's in 5/16 holes. Also, use the first method he showed, there is a huge difference in between the two. The first method is compressing the nut without making the bolt to spin in it, bit harder to do but safer. Avoid impact wrenches as they can strip the rivnut threads quite easely.
I have a scenario where I can't see the other side, as I need to install a rivnut into an enclosed aluminum square tube/beam underneath the bottom of my camper/trailer. It seems the best option would be to go with one of the first two since I could feel the tightness of the rivnut against the inside if the beam, so that I make sure not to over-tighten it. I could probably use an impact driver but I'd have to practice on a test piece that I can see the other side of, to know how many rotations is good.
Yes, the test piece practice run would be a very good idea. Then you can test both methods and feel which would be most effective. Good luck and enjoy your journey! 👌
You will need to apply pressure on the surface of the rivnut, or your hole is too big for the rivnut in question. You can also bulge the rivnut slightly before inserting it. Hope this helps! 👌
@DIYwithDeon it worked on the first but not the second one I tried. I think my washer was too big. Unsure if I need to drill out now. I really want to avoid this because it's inside my van and loose metal bits tend to cause rust.
Great comparison for the various configurations for a hand installation tool. Great way to install rivet nuts when you can't get a spin spin tool or plier tool to fit the application. Well done!
Thanks for your feedback and support! I appreciate it. 👌🏻
I agree with previous comment about using a thrust washer but I would add that you should grease the threads to prevent galling and make it thread easier. Great video, thanks.
Absolutely! Thanks for your support as well! 👌
What would a thrust washer do? I watched a couple videos and read a thing about thrust washers but I still don't understand what it would do here
Thanks
@@jeffa847 Jeff, using a thrust washer is essentially putting ball bearings between the nut used for crushing the rivnut and the rivnut making the nut roll it’s way tighter instead of scraping against the nut to tighten it. It makes tightening the assembly easier and smoother. I hope that makes sense.
@@davidt8438 Yeah I think I see.
So the thrust washer is made in such a way that there is less friction on both sides than a regular washer would have?
I saw one video where they were using a thrust washer with copper(?) brass(?) - it was some kind of softer metal - and that didn't really make sense in this application.
Thanks so much for your response
You are very intelligent
OUTSTANDING visual explanation. My 'go-to' video on this. Well done!
I am very glad you found it helpful! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Thanks for the information. If my tool breaks, I would definitely try the 1st or the 3rd method that you effectively demonstrated. Much appreciated, keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your support!
A very useful video, thanks! I’ve used rivnuts for many years and have used a couple of kits with the pliers type installation tool, which are OK for smaller sizes, or the softer aluminium ones. For the larger sizes (above M6) this DIY type of tool works better because you can get more installation force. From personal experience I prefer the first method shown here because the bolt doesn’t turn in the rivnut during the installation so there’s less chance of damaging it, the rotation takes place between the threads of the installation bolt and the tube nut. If the rivnut thread does get damaged during installation you’ve completely wasted your time and will then waste even more time removing and replacing it (been there). Rivnuts which have loosened with use can also be reset with care using any of these methods but I’d always use the first one shown. 😊
I am glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
When some idiot doesn't lube the threads ,and it's 5yrs later when you've got to get the fastener out but the whole thing spins....it'll make you wanna push it off a cliff and watch it burn.
@@MrTheHillfolk Yes, a few years ago I needed to take the body tub off the box section chassis of my kit car. It was held on by a number of factory fitted, 12mm rivnuts and one began to spin in the chassis when I tried to undo its screw. The only way to access the front of the rivnut was to take the body off….catch 22. I eventually managed to jam an old coarse file through the open end of the chassis tube which allowed me to put enough leverage on the rear of the rivnut to jam it and stop it spinning. Otherwise I would have had to cut the body tub apart in a critical area.since then I often seat a new rivnut with superglue in the hope that every little helps.
Thank you so much. With absolutely no directions with my fenders nor how to use this tool for the rivets I really appreciate the video.
You're very welcome! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
This saved my day!
My bike bottle cage was loose, I used method 1 and voilá.
Thank you very much for sharing 😃👍
Glad it helped! Thanks for your support! 👌
Thanks for the tutorial! I don't understand some guys put comments so negative, your demonstration is working so I like our comment "I think you are missing the point...". I was thinking buying the tool until someone from another video mentioned there are a better way using nut and bolt and spanners, I really like the third method with the impact driver, something any "real" DIY has in their toolbox.
I appreciate that! There will always be different people with different opinions, it is impossible to please everyone. Thanks for your support!
The first method worked great with M5's and aluminum rivnuts. Thank you!
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
The second way worked easy for me, the first way the washer spins. I used a couple of lug nuts, never needed a trip to the HW store. Ordered the rivet nuts on amazon. Thanks!!
You are very welcome! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
thanks for uploading. Most of the times the tool gets in the way when you pull the handles apart when you work inside the engine compartment or trunk of a car. This is the proper way
Thank you very much for your feedback and support! 👌
Thanks.
This was so useful. I would never have fitted the rear mudflaps to my land rover 200tdi 1991 Defender without this advice about the captive rivet nuts.
🎉
You are very welcome! Thanks for your support!👌🏻
When you used the Nut Driver have you considered making a packing piece that will fit inside the Driver so you can use the Impact Driver to put pressure on the bolt head? Using a low profile socket may save having to make the packing piece to put inside the socket. The idea is to use the Drill or Impact Driver to help put pressure on the rivnut so it won't turn in the hole. I hope this makes sense.
*Thank You* for the methods of "cinching" the rivnut up without needing a specific tool.
I have not really thought about it, I can probably put a nut inside the socket as a spacer. Thanks for the tip and support! 👌🏻
A very well done presentation. Great stuff, David. Good to see a fellow South African on UA-cam.
Thanks for the compliment and your support! 👌Deon
Great video, well explained and no waffle - I am doing an e-bike conversion and having to drill extra holes in my frame to accommodate the battery. It's pointless getting a tool, as I only need a couple of these fitting, so your video has been a REAL help. Thanks again
I am very glad you found it helpful Mark! Thanks for your feedback and support! 👌🏻
I've just found this channel. [Subscribe] clicked as a gesture of support and gratitude. I like the "how to manage without a special tool" approach. Spot on! Cheers. :)
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
The best video I've seen on this topic. Well done!
I am glad you enjoyed it, thanks for your support! 👌
Thanks. I will be using these shortly. If using method 2, a little oil on the thread might help...if I cant find a long nut as in method 1 (best it seems)
Absolutely, thanks for your support! 👌
Very good idea...smart man....thank you for taking the time to make the video
You are most welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Thanks. All of those methods look like they'll work well for the project I have.
I am glad you found it helpful! Thanks for your support! 👌
I tried to do 3mm rivnuts without the appropriate tool. So I found a pop rivet gun that I use the right insert for the gun, and a long enough all thread or long enough headless bolt in my case it was 3mm bolt that I cut the head off, it has to be quite long so the gun can have purchase on the thread and pull it thru, worked a treat!!
Awesome, sounds wonderful!
i appreciate this video!
for as much as i could buy the tool i don't have the financial means to do it, so thank you so much!
You are most welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Use a thrust needle roller bearing between the 2 washers and it works heaps better because there's less binding
Awesome! Thanks for the tip and support! 👌🏻
Thank you so much for your plain and clear explanation it has been presented very well thank you again
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
I suggest a drill with clutch options to eventually set just right with testing as you go. :)
Great advise! thanks for your support! 👌
Good explanation and demonstration. If you are new to using riv nuts it’s good to practice on scrap metal before using on your application.
Very true, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Give this man a Bells, Thank you for the lesson sir.
My pleasure! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Thanks boykie. Jy is a ledge. Fitting a water bottle mount to a ebike I'm building for the battery.
Jy is meer as welkom! 👌🏻
Added to this put locktite on the outside of the rivnut and use antizeize on the thread.
Awesome tips, thanks for your support!
you think thread locker would work there? it will not cure with presence of oxygen.
Si cortas la cabeza del tornillo y colocas una tuerca con dos arandelas entonces puedes ajustar sin que se dañe la rosca de la tuerca remachada. Posiblemente se desgaste la rosca del tornillo, pero en ese caso, lo cambias por otro y listo. Saludos desde Argentina.
Thank you for your feedback and support! 👌
That's awesome explanation. Thank you for doing that video.😊
I am glad you enjoyed it, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Excellent video! Thanks my dude!
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Tried it. It works so long as the little ribs on the rivnut grab the hole rim. If not the nut spins and won't crush. The larger the rivnut (M10 etc) the more likely to spin as the force required to crush is greater than the friction between the metals. Make sure the hole is tight. You see some people pull the bolt down on an angle to get grip on the inner rim of the hole to get the crush going. My advice. Works for smaller nuts and make sure the hole is tight. For $69 I ended up just buying the tool for M10's (13mm).
Thanks for your feedback and support! 👌🏻
Genau so wie es in der ersten Lösung gezeigt wird mache ich es auch. Zusätzlich fette ich das Gewinde und die Scheiben ein. Ich de denke, dass es die Reibung mindert.
Ein Rollenlager würde ich mir erst besorgen, wenn ich eine 10mm-Hülse verbauen müsste.
Great tips! There is always always room for improvement. 👌
Спасибо мастеру за подробное объяснение. 👍
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Ahh rivnuts, the love hate fastener for projects.
Love the easy install, hate them when someone didnt lubricate the threads and the bolt seizes in pkace and the whole rivnut spins.
Theyve definitely ruined some fun during a project.
😅It is a complicated relationship
Can a rivnut be installed with some kind of permanent adhesive so it will stay in place?
@@jeffa847 depends on how strong a connection you need in the part
3m structural adhesive is some wicked stuff ,if an adhesive could do it ,it would be that.
Deon, dankie. Jy het sopas n probleempie vir my opgelos.
Ek is bly ek kon help, dankie vir jou ondersteuning! 👌
This worked great! I did need help, but it worked beautifully
Great to hear! Thanks for your support! 👌
I've got a 3/8 16 riv- nut without a crush area and it's steel, neither method worked and stripped the theads out of the nut, so I juth bought a tool today and we will see.
I'm sorry I could not help you a bit more there. Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
The reason I don’t use them much is because people use impack on them and it turns and can be hell too get bolt out if rusted
That makes perfect sense, thank you for your support! 👌
Having done a van with rivnuts I’d never use any sort of rivnut tool that drives the bolt. This includes the fancy pneumatic drills. That method is a recipe for a spun rivnut, ask me how I know…
Use the first method if space is tight or use the dual/single handle compression style both pull the rivnut instead of driving the bolt.
If anyone knows any other “pull” style tools I’m all ears.
👌🏻
For the last option use a drill driver with the torque limit set
Thank you for the tip and your support! 👌
if there is access - i would chose a longer bolt, and place another washer and nut at the front of the rivnut to protect it's thread.
An aweaome suggestion! 👌🏻
Excellent tutorial
Glad you think so! Thanks for your support! 👌
Молодец. Мне понравился этот простой метод.
You are very welcome! thanks for your support! 👌
Your idea very useful. thank you very much
You are most welcome
Brilliant idea and explanation.What is the Newton meter torque of you drill.
No idea, it is an impact driver. Thanks for your support! 👌
I possibly overlooked it but shouldn't a snug fitting hole be mentioned? The snugger the NutSert fits in that hole the easier it will tend to grip the hole all by itself. In other words the sloppier the hole the more difficult it will be for the NutSert to grip the hole.
Capice?
Wakodahatchee Chris
A very good point to mention. Thanks for your feedback and support! 👌🏻
It should be nice to get the torque recommended by the manufacturer.
👌🏻
in another vid someone suggested a brass washer to spin a nut smooth in place of lube, (he didn't use tube nut but that looks better), so maybe a brass tube nut would be a good combo of yours, (tube), and the normal nut method
Thank you for the valuable feedback and support! 👌🏻
are rivnuts OK to use on 1-2mm thick plastic sheets?
I guess it depends on a few things, but it will likely crack the plastic
For plastic you should use split rivnuts. Very similar bit designed to work with plastic.
@@bison-gear i tried googling but didnt find anything specific to that name, are they the ones that have the sides that open up and then fold on themseles?
@@lukaszM46 correct, one made for plastic when tighten split in 4 thus have more surface to hold on.
Thank you. Very useful Video
Glad to hear you enjoyed that one as well!
Way to go home boy... thumbs up to you
Thanks for your support! 👌
Thank you very much !
Second way works 👍
You are very welcome! Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Good job !
Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Option no 1 would be my preferred method
Awesome, thanks for your feedback and support! 👌🏻
Option 1
Use a high tensile bolt.
(Bolts may stretch and fail if not high tensile, that may be why the first time you tried to spin the tube nut onto the bolt it jammed)
Use a socket with an extension, plus a solid T bar you can push against on the end of the bolt
great job my friend 👍
Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
А использование вместо шайбы упорного подшипника - намного упростит работу...
That is a very good tip, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Hola, exelente explicación!
Un saludo cordial 👍🇺🇾🍀
Thank you for your kind words and support! 👌
spot on , well done 👏
Thanks for your support! 👌
Super! thanks a lot, good job👌👍
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Thanks!
You are most welcome, thanks for your support!
EXCELENTE IDEA. GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR.
Thanks for the compliment and support! 👌
Well I did the first on n I got nothing out of it. I kept tightening n nothing. I used the rivet nut tool jet n after a few of them going in,it started to get really tight to push together. The other one didn’t tighten at all. I also ask the store personnel’s to show me what I’m doing wrong. But still got know where. So now I’m looking to get the rivet nut drill kit. Like why can’t I just get the holes in my van fully filled in to get my walls up?
Hi Deloris, the assumption that I can make from your description is that the holes in your van might be a bit too big for the rivnuts that you are inserting. They can therefore not grip properly when crushed together. I hope this helps a bit.
Check to see if the rivnut is a steel one or aluminum made one because the steel rivnuts are much harder to compress . Go to Harbour freight because they have the kit but they also sell a rivnut tool for under 20.00 that has 2 long handles on it that can handle the steel rivnut with no problems verses the cheap tool that comes in the kit .
Thank you. I have try it and work very well. (3method)
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Good video but what should the hole size be in comparison to the rivnut size?
The perfect size would be the size of the ribbed part that crushes. Thanks for your support! 👌
Perfect size is the smallest that will still accept the riv nut, tighter the better
For method #3, does it have to be an impact driver or will a good electric screwdriver do as well? Thanks for the vid by the way! I really liked that you compared the three methods.
If your electric screwdriver has enough torque it could work, but mostly to start crushing the rivnut you might need that impact action. I'm glad you found it helpful, thanks for your support!👌🏻
i noticed it looks like a tile being used for demo. do you think carbon fiber is as strong as that tile? how much pressure is put on the material or is most of it on the rivnut itself being squeezed?
i am using an aluminum rivnut which is not as heavy duty as the one you are using
It is actually a piece of painted metal, so its fairly strong.
@@DIYwithDeon thanks.
@@DIYwithDeon I think the bike carbon is pretty strong as well.
Brilliant!
Thank you for the compliment and support! 👌
Само нитачка за нит гайки Parkside!!!!!!!! Parkside professional power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're gonna have to elaborate more on that....
Where in South Africa can yoo get riv nuts ? Thanks
You can find them at Builders warehouse, Chamberlains or Gelmar.
How is he crushing the riv nut without it spinning? Both methods don't work because the nut spins in the frame.
Don't make the hole too big and press the rivnut against the frame with help of a wrench pressed against the washer. Give it another try. 👌🏻
can rivnuts be used to make bolt holes smaller? like if i have a m8 bolt but the bolt hole is more like m10 can i use a m8 rivnut in the hole so i can use the m8 bolt. since using a bigger bolt isnt really feasible in my application and i dont have the skill to weld the bolt hole closed and drill it to the correct m8 size.
Preferably not, the rivnut will not grip properly in that application. I would recommend ising a repair sleeve. It's a sleeve with thread on the inside and outside. Usually used to repair damaged thread , but can be used when the hole is too big as well. Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
@@DIYwithDeon is the repair sleeve hammered into the bolt hole basically and held in mostly by the bolt and nut?
No it is screwed in. The sleeve have thread on the inside and outside
Is that M10 dimension of rivnut? Thanks
thank you so much for the information. that method is very practical
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Verry good idea
Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Вчера пришлось попробовать, заклёпочник не влезал. Получилось😊
I am glad that the video could help!
Boa noite.
Em 2:44 vc colocou DUAS arruelas.
Apenas UMA não bastaria para executar o serviço ?
The two washers helps to reduce the friction between the tubenut and the face of the rivnut. You can also put a little grease or oil between the washers to reduce the friction even more.
@@DIYwithDeon
Entendi. Muito obrigado.
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌
I also prepared everything, but I did not get any results. Because the rivet nut of all the washers and the support nut was rotating and it was not fixed and riveted in the hole, and no matter what I did, I did not succeed.
Maybe try to apply more pressure on the rivnut so that geips the face of the material better. I hope you win!
This happens to me too. Can not hold it any tighter and it just spins.
Same
I struggle with the large ones, tool or not. The 3/8” size is beyond the methods I have tried.
@@kalijasin Sorry to say the 3/8 I’m trying to do are the pre-bulbed ones. I may not have the strength for them.☹️
Thanks men, very smart.
You're welcome! Thanks for your support! 👌
I didn't have suitable nuts and had only small standard nut, so I failed spectacularly as that small nut shredded the bolt threads xD
Got a cheap tool from nearest home improvement store, and it failed even worse! Because I have stainless steel rivnut... and there's not enough strength in the world to sqeeze the handles of the cheap tool as these handles are just too short and mechanism doesn't amplify your force unlike better tool which that store didn't have....
That sounds a very unpleasant experience! The best advice I can give is to use tube nuts and hard bolts or perhaps extend the handles of the tool you already have, to see if that helps crunching the rivnuts. I hope you find an appropriate solution. Thanks for your support! 👌
Great comment, I always wondered about those two factors. You need a long coupling nut to distribute the friction on theads, and you don't want stainless unless necessary because the wall of the rivnut needs to easily collapse.
It may be that the stainless rivets have higher strength and thus require more power.
Second problem: Stainless steel tends to seize. Then you won't get any further. Therefore, in this case, the thread and the face must be lubricated.
@@cowboy7645 Yeah stainless is definitely much harder from material itself, so many one-hand tools won't really be able to actually handle that, getting a tool for wrench/screwdriver solved the issue for me
excelent video thanks
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Lekker, dankie man, sal probeer hierdie naweek
Jy is meer as welkom, dankie vir jou ondersteuning! 👌🏻
HELP. Can someone tell me why my rivnut won't grab and set(expand) in the hole?
I drilled a 3/8 hole, trying to put M6 rivnut but it won't set. Do I need more pressure?
The 3/8 sounds too big for that size rivnut. Try a smaller hole..
@@DIYwithDeon ok. I'm installing a spoiler on my car and the directions said that size but I'll try your suggestion
This is not a reliable method. It will increase the chances of stripping out the bolt leave behind a useless rivnut.
Yes, the hole you have seems obviously too big, I am hammering my M6's in 5/16 holes. Also, use the first method he showed, there is a huge difference in between the two. The first method is compressing the nut without making the bolt to spin in it, bit harder to do but safer. Avoid impact wrenches as they can strip the rivnut threads quite easely.
What material is the rivnut made of?
You get different types, some are stainless steel, others are softer metal or brass.
@@DIYwithDeon ok , I am aware of that. What material is the rivnut used in the video made of?
Those were softer metal ones used for the video. They were the cheapest. But I have done it with the stainless steel ones as well.
great video brah
Thank you for the compliment and support! 👌🏻
Good vid mate. cheers ya saffa 👍
Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Ни слова не понял,но такое подробное видео что дураку понятно, спасибо.
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Lekker video!
Baie dankie vir jou ondersteuning! 👌
says the one filming all the helpful videos@@Biggreydog
I have a scenario where I can't see the other side, as I need to install a rivnut into an enclosed aluminum square tube/beam underneath the bottom of my camper/trailer. It seems the best option would be to go with one of the first two since I could feel the tightness of the rivnut against the inside if the beam, so that I make sure not to over-tighten it.
I could probably use an impact driver but I'd have to practice on a test piece that I can see the other side of, to know how many rotations is good.
Yes, the test piece practice run would be a very good idea. Then you can test both methods and feel which would be most effective. Good luck and enjoy your journey! 👌
Great video thank you I didn't know about the these I use it to hang my truck steps works great
I am glad you found it useful, thanks for your support!👌
it"s very good to.
Thank you very much!
excelente, gracias
It's a pleasure, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Very Smart!
Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Great ideas
Thanks for your support!👌🏻
Спасибо за видео!
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌
Thanks sir
You are very welcome, thanks for your support! 👌🏻
Rivnut spinning. How do i fix?
You will need to apply pressure on the surface of the rivnut, or your hole is too big for the rivnut in question. You can also bulge the rivnut slightly before inserting it. Hope this helps! 👌
@DIYwithDeon it worked on the first but not the second one I tried. I think my washer was too big. Unsure if I need to drill out now. I really want to avoid this because it's inside my van and loose metal bits tend to cause rust.
just buy the tool. Rivnut rotrates with the bolt.
Too expensive in South Africa
How much is it?
You can have a look in the description at links of examples of the items in the video. Thanks for your support! 👌🏻
a primeira opção é a melhor , não estraga a rosca👍🇧🇷
A very good option. Thanks for your support! 👌