Rivnuts are adictive, once you start using them you put then in pretty much everything, so buying a Gun is prehaps not so bad after all. They also come in countersunk, but don´t hold up quite so well, in which case making a flair tool to countersink normal ones would be a nice project.
Or, make a dimple + die tool to dimple the surface of the sheet metal slightly bigger and slightly deeper than the flange of the rivnut, then the rivnut will sit flush nicely with the surface👍
@@russcole5685Yep, the hex style are quite good, however they need an additional hex tool to punch a hex shaped hole in the panel prior to installing the hex rivnuts😁
Lol. This is very true. I bought a decent kit about a year ago thinking I just needed it for that one project. But like most tools. Once you have it you find a million different reasons to use it lol
I use rivnuts quite frequently if you put them anywhere likely to corrode. Put some red Loctite around the section that compresses. It will stop them from spinning and reduce corrosion.
I would modify that suggestion slightly. Use the Loc-tite 609 retaining compound instead of thread retainer. ( 609 is general purpose. There is a stronger version.) I've used this on small sliding rods and needed an arbor press to separate the parts. It's wonderful stuff.
Antiseize or ox guard is a much better option. Red loctite can break down or not seal properly still allowing corrosion. Plus side of anti-seize specifically sensor safe will allow you to maintain a permanent ground while preventing corrosion. Red loctite will also not stop galvanic corrosion which can be an issue when working with aluminum.
Steel peg boards aren't thick enough to properly engage the hooks, but that is only half the the problem. The biggest problem is peg board holes come in two different sizes, Ø1/8" (3.2mm) and Ø1/4" (6.4mm) holes and most hook sets are advertised as "universal", meaning they work fairly well in the smaller hole peg boards but flop around like a hotdog in a hula-hoop in the larger hole boards, lol. If you have the larger hole style board you have to look for hooks that are specific to it. If you use an actual press-board peg board with the appropriate sized hooks and use the locking clips that come with most sets of hooks they work much better. Having said that, your method is way more rigid and durable. Thanks for another great video.
12:16 - after cutting the majority of the thrrad, the die bottoms out leaving a taper of partially cut threads. For some applications (like for pegbook hooks) this may be useful as it causes the hook to resist unscrewing. . However other times it is annoying and you can't get the nut to seat. You need to grind a relief, an extra step that weaken the bolt. . The solution is to flip the die over and run it back down the thread. For small threads you will get it all the way down, like how a bottoming tap works in a blind hole. If it still won't pull down 100%, either relieve the shoulder with a dremel, or run a countersink into the nut to create a tiny counterbore.
I admire your commitment to continue using a hand hack saw. I quickly went out and got the cheap 4x6 horizontal band saw from harbor freight. Honestly, for the price? It works like an absolute champ. Ive had zero stalls or anything of the sort so far from bar stock to solid round stock upwards of 2".. 4140 steel tool steel crs hrs etc. Honestly it has all the power it really needs, and shars sells starret blades of the proper size. It is definitely worth the investment and it can be modified into a "better" saw. Ive added coolant and a hydraulic cylinder to mine for feed control. The stock spring works fine just hard to adjust on the fly so i found myself cutting far slower than necessary
Yup, it really does the job in a small shop. Mine works great for what I need and I got lucky that it cut very, very close to 90deg in the vertical out of the box.
Use one of those ratcheting wrenches on the tool, so you dont have to change position. Resize the bolt head to smaller size so it fits inside the ratcheting wrench and just use smaller nut on ratchet.
To increase the usability of the tool I would use a ratchet spanner instead of the fixed one to drive the "pull" nut and just a jointed spanner to lock to bolt.
Nice tool. Another technique (if there's not a hole already) are the Flowdrill Thermal Friction Drills. They use friction (no cutting edges) to heat up the sheet until it's hot enough for the bit to push through and bend/flow the metal inwards to form a small tube. This can then be given more threads than the sheet thickness itself would allow. Cool as hell to watch in use. ha
A very nice little tool. FWIW, pegboard was originally made of 1/8" thick pressed paper board (Masonite), and drilled with 1/8" holes. Pegboard hooks are designed to fit those specs. When hung in that material they stay put. It is no surprise that they have no purchase in sheet metal "pegboard." Really, sheet metal pegboard ought to have hooks designed for its larger holes and thinner sheet.
Thanks for posting. A few constructive criticisms: 1. Your tool is rather bulky - and in particular - sticks a long ways out from the surface into which you're inserting the rivnut. For easy-access installations, a more typical rivnut setting tool is WAY faster and easier. For tight-access rivnut installation (very typical in cars), a much shallower tool is often required. 2. Rather than turning down and threading the tip of the M10 screw for the rivnut thread - drill/tap the M10 screw and use a piece of Grade 8+ all-thread for the arbor. This makes it replaceable should it break in the future. 3. Use a left-hand thread M10 screw. It'll prevent the phenomenon where you THINK your setting the rivnut; when you're ACTUALLY unthreading the rivnut off the tip off your arbor. Your tool counts on the thrust bearing to prevent any wrenching torque from being imparted onto the head of the rivnut - which works most of the time, but not always. This phenomenon is particularly bad in blind-hole installations where you can't see what you're doing. The arbor will rip the last couple threads out of the rivnut, leaving a partially-set rivnut in a tight-access spot. No choice then but to finagle a die grinder in there. It sux.
Rivnuts are a better way to improve the pegboard functionality, but where only moderate strength is needed, I used a method common on Japanese electronic equipment; use a dimpling and piercing tool instead of a drill to punch a hole in the sheet metal that is bent inwards around the circumference of the hole. You then have enough depth to tap about 3 turns of thread. It is very quick to do and nothing could be cheaper.
French (Schneider) electric industrial gear have such threads since 50s, i think that they use large punch presses beacouse they in some cases draw lots of material, and almost achive full lenght of threads. Metric standard says that you must have 80% of thread diametar.
The PERFECT job for a fly press!!! You can hack these holes using a tapered centerpunch, just need it to be very gentle and have an accurate sized mandrel (about thread minor dial + 2x metal thickness, then trial and fit). . For speed of assembly, find/harvest "trilobular" self-threading screws. These are easily identified by a slightly "Wankel Rotor" shaped end, which reforms and cuts the thread automatically. The screws are used in most automated assembly, so easily found in used equipment. . Old DVD players use 3mm. Dog beds and other frames are usually 4mm. A fabulous source for larger ones is old treadmills where they use up to 6mm for the legs, handles, frame etc. - Grab them with a hex driver when you are harvesting the DC mother and Driver board 😉
@@johncoops6897 ; Re fly press, spot on, and in using a tapered punch and die/mandrel, you get to attach metal to sheet metal without the gap caused by the head of the Rivnut.
@@keithammleter3824 - my dad was an engineer and I have inherited his tools. Aside from press tools there is also a metal tin full of hand punches, including a variety of those long tapered metal threadform punches. . It's easy to see how much they have been used since they have dents in the sides of the (usually rectangulat) handle from being repeatedly bashed to unstick them from the hole! 😃
This is a fantastic, simple tool! I would go to a pawn shop and look for a switching ratcheting wrench (spanner for you across the pond) and use that to replace the manual one if you spend a lot of time working on it. Or run down to your local cheap hardware store for a cheap one. The $10 would save a lot effort for lots of installations.
0:55 Normally, the thread should have the depth of the Diameter in steel. A M8 should have at least 8mm of depth. In aluminium you should have the factor 1.5 (12mm depth)
@brianm9962 It depends on the thread size and pitch. But if you use 1x diameter, you aren't wrong. It is the easy and quick version. I don't calculate the depth of the thread, because it is already cut
Don't get me wrong, this is very nice and I do like it. Especially making the handle hinged and the wonderful ball end... But. I was really hoping you were going to make a cam over tool to do it instead of the usual two nut method but with a very fancy washer. Not knocking what you did which was top notch for what not knocking what you did which was top notch for The tool it is, I'm just looking for some kind of lever actuated cam pull that's better than the cheap $15 rivnut tool.
Some advice that I’ve received from my father regarding rivnuts is that they aren’t designed for repeated use. Essentially, if you plan on using them for something that is meant to be disassembled and reassembled numerous times they don’t hold up very well. Just something to keep in mind.
Pretty cool design, thanks for the idea, i made one with a few changes… i made the body out of aluminum and pressed 4 neodymium magnets in the face, that helps keep it straight. i also made interchangeable tips for different threads and have the bolt fixed in place with minimal movement allowed to compress the rivet, i have the bearing fixed in place as well… all are minor changes i consider personal preference, overall your idea and it works great!! thanks
Maybe add a recess for rivnut head so the bottom of the tool is flush with sheet metal when you install rivnut? Use a washer sized to thickness of rivnut head? That way you will keep sheet metal flat and don't make it bulge?
For non-industrial stuff, a bulbed rivet nut is great. No special tool, just push it through, then feed a bolt through, and tighten to expand it. Boom an easy threaded insert nut.
Your method is even better than the commercial tool. With your shoulder on it, the insert crushes nicely centred. My tools often leave the insert slightly off centre, which causes lots of alignment issues. I do hundred of rivnuts a month and will definitely be copying your shoulder idea when I build my tool. Thanks again for another great video!!
For a while, I worked for a company that used rivnuts by the 10,000's. My recommendation would be to look into an Avdel 74200. Pneumatic tool that will cut down installation time from a minute per rivnut to a few seconds.
@@russellv6234 the cheap harbour freight or princess auto tools handheld ones only cost $20 and are all done by feel. They wear out ridiculously fast and rarely can your hands do a good job of applying the right pressure consistently. My tool cost about $300 and looks kinda like an 18” bolt cutter. You set it once and installation is consistent with excellent repeatability, but it still sometimes gets the rivnut slightly off center or angled if it gets misaligned during the first squeeze. To go to an air operated installer I would be upwards of $1500 and still has the same problems if not perfectly operated. I have a design I’m working on for a manual tool that hopefully will eliminate the misalignment issue, and was simply saying that the shoulder idea he has used will be incorporated into my design as well
I use rivnuts a lot in my line of work and never have an issue with using standard tools to set these. Sounds like you have some operator error going on. I have every tool from plier type to dual handle, to impact gun. When used properly, every tool sets perfectly. The most I have spent on any of these tools have been $70.
I have the Astro Pneumatic ADN38 that I use with a drill. Absolute game changer for easy to access jobs. But I would make my own like you did if I had the tools. Nice work
This is an insane amount of work to save $110 on the real tool, and you only have one size. The Marson give you everything from #6 to 3/8. This is a case of a solution looking for a problem.
Didnt appear too insane to me.. neat little project. For what they are, the specialised tools are an insane amount of money though, and include mixed reviews.
Tool looks great, you could probably add a notch and a spring loaded locking pin at the small end to keep the main bolt from spinning on demand, allowing you to set the depth, lock it and then use an impact gun or the ratchet on the nut itself rather than the static bolt. Using a spanner is all fun and games until you have to do it 15 times over in a fiddly spot.
Must admit I bought a kit with a selection of sizes of rivnut from M3 to M12 and the application tool for less than £40 off Amazon a couple of months ago, a VonHaus, strange name for a chinese company. So far it has been great, not a lot of use yet, but when you need a rivnut, you need a rivnut.
Pegboard made of wood/hardboard holds the hooks in place much better (a nice firm press/friction fit). Your sheet metal pegboard looks like it is very thin and has oversized holes.
I used to hate pegboard until I found some square holed pegboard with little plastic locking clips that hold the pegs in place. Called lockboard or something, I can't remember right now. Lets me keep all my oversized tools and consumables hanging nicely where I can see them instead of digging through a dozen drawers trying to figure out where I stashed them at.
Personally I like to load my twist drill in my lathe with the corner edge as if it is a boring bar. The load seems to cut best and wear drills better that way too. What a fantastic build! Thanks for sharing!
I would have made the bolt keyed and use a electric drill to drive the nut because i´m lazy. Maybe ill do something like that in future, but as said, i´m lazy.
Thanks for sharing. Mine I made with a grade 8 Allen head bolt and a gearwrench pass-thru socket. I guess you could use a pair of ratchet wrenches on a hex bolt.
I just had the idea that if the depth of the sheet metal isn’t critical (as in contrast it would be in let’s say square pipe), you could just use the m8 screw and tap an m6, m5, m4,... section on it. So you could use one bolt for all these sizes...?
That’s an awesome idea and a really nice tool! It occurs to me that you could make it even easier to use by replacing the compression nut with one that is bigger than the bolt head. Then you could use a ratchet spanner to install the riv nut.
If you want to improve a little this project, make a custom bigger nut (the one that is actually black) and make it bigger, so that a ratchet wrench can be used instead of a regular wrench. That would make the process of fixing the rivet quite faster.
I was thinking about a ratcheting wrench to but couldn’t you just use one the way it is. The wrench should slip over past the bolt down to the nut if they’re the same size.
@@johnnyb362 Yes. Although it's rather annoying to pass a same size ratcheting wrench over a nut/bolt. Increasing the size of the nut in this project solves that annoyance.
I hate buying Chinese tools,but that has become a fact of life, especially for a tool that I may not use frequently. That said, Amazon lists several Rivet Nut tools under $40 (USD). The kits come with a tool, 6 to 8 different size mandrels, 10 riv nuts for each size, and a plastic carrying case to keep it all together. I just bought one and I'm about to go out to the garage and use it on a project. I'll let you know how it does.
You should look into a Porta band, it would make your life alot easier. Plus you can get an add on to make it like a bandsaw. I understand now that you don't have room for a horizontal bandsaw after watching a previous video. I can relate to that.
Lubricate the compression nut and the bolt thread with a decent moly grease. Amazing how much easier it makes the work and the threads will last longer as well.
I wonder how well your thrust washers are going to hold up being soft. I say this as a neighbour did this with a similar sized needle thrust bearing on a Myford Super 7 cross slide IIRC and it didn't last long before he replaced them with the proper hardened washers. I ran into him at the local bearing supply shop where he was collecting the thrust washers and he told me the tale.
flanged nut would help for sure. I thought the same thing, if/when I make this tool I'll probably also make a nut with a thick flange for the purpose. And use LH threads.
Im keen to see where this Tool, fits into your future projects. You make the Tools you need , then reveal the REAL project 😉 Have you ever considered making a proper Taper Turning Attachment, for your new Late ?
Nice tool! You could exyend the range of RivNuts even further by drilling a larger hole thrpugh the body and turning flange bushings to use with the smaller thread RivNuts. RivNuts are also great in aluminum, and anywhere where you must frequently insert and remove fasteners in thin or soft metal.
Nice! Seems to be working better then the original tools that I have for this. At least if you don't have enough strength in your hands to deform the nuts. Just wondering how long the bolts and nuts will last since they will wear when tightening them.... but a lot cheaper too then the special bolts for the original tools. Very handy this tool, I have used lots and lots of this rivnuts on bikes, tools, rooms with metal walls like containers and such. Most used here are M4, M5, M6 and lots and lots of M8.
It would be allot easier if you used an Allen head bolt. That is how the one I have is engineered. I bought it from a company here in the USA that specializes in fasteners like rivnuts , I won’t name the company because I’m sure they have a Patton on it. The nut that you turned with wrench was about 38.1mm so it is easier to grab with the wrench.
Subbed! Quite a nice take on rivnut tool compared to others even the cheapy ones that you pull together with 2 hands. What would really be interesting, since you seem to have a nice shop full of tool, is a design where you hold with the wrench and can use an impact or drill to spin the nut. That one might take a bit more thinking.
They are made of many different metals, not just Steel, there's aluminum, bronze, stainless steel and probably many more variations. You do really need a good tool for steel and stainless steel, they are hard as heck and cheap tools just won't provide enough lever or be strong enough to handle needed strength At least the tool is conceptually very simple so there are ample ways to make them! 6:50 that's a tool I've never seen, neat and something to remember!
Neat. Could you lock the nut in place in the tool then use your socket wrench to move the bolt in and out? This would eliminate the need for the second wrench.
Given all the extra holes to work with in this particular case I'd take strips of flat bar long enough to span two holes, with a threaded hole in one end and a plain one in the other, as anchor nuts.
I don't have a metal lathe so I used half a dozen flat washers and smeared some grease on the one next to the nut. One open end wrench. one box end wrench. make sure the washers fit the bolt with very little space. Fender washers work good. voila'
Small improvement, insert a long neck hex socket onto the nut with a handle so that you don’t need a wrench on the end, and install a ratcheting spanner on the jam nut so that you don’t have to remove the moving the spanner,
7:10 Holy chatter batman! As far a pegboard goes, you need the plastic peg locks. Holds everything in place. For metal pegboards, they have "pegboard hook locks" which are a plastic insert that helps secure the hook. I personally wouldn't use metal pegboards since there's little friction.
I only have bad experiences with rivnuts, especially the aluminium kind. On several occasions the thread of the rivnut stripped instead of it properly expanding. I had to drill them out etc, sometimes even damaging the hole. Those were m3 rivnuts in thin plate steel. But maybe it's just bad quality rivnuts and rivnut tool. You cannot buy these in hardware stores in my country, so I got them from alie.
If you key the bolt to the body you can cut the bolt head off and use the ratchet or an impact driver to tighten the nut to expand the rivnut much quicker
Hey there mate, another awesome video. I have been trying to grow my channel, so i have been watching a lot of your channel lately looking at how you create has given me some good pointers. Keep up the good work and keep creating.
All it needs to make it better/easyer to use... a kind of fork that goes around the spanner to hold it in place. That way you only need to hold 1 handle
Not sure if possible because I don't have the info handy but could you do 4mm, 5mm and 6mm on the same bolt in that order from the end of the bolt? Just step down to each size. It could be a 3 in one tool. Great vid and keep em coming@
If you use a GearWrench, ratcheting box wrench, it will much smoother. I second the comment about a dab of red Locktight. One other tip, which is why the GearWrench is important, once you start setting the rivnut, do NOT stop until it is fully compressed! That material is being work hardened before your very eyes, be Speedy.
Optimization idea: instead of using a separate ratchet to keep the bolt from spinning, incorporate that feature into the tool somehow. Then you only have one stationary handle to hold instead of two. One straightforward approach (not the best, but easy; would probably require a longer bolt): 1) Weld/epoxy the hex end of a socket to the rear of the tool body. 2) Cut the square-drive piece off (so it's just a cylinder with hexagonal interior 3) Cut the head of the bolt off 4) Weld/epoxy a nut in the middle of the bolt, so that it lives in the hex section when the tool is installed in the rivnut 5) Use a large hardened washer to seat against the back of the socket 6) Add the thrust bearing and the tension nut Now you only have a single stationary handle, and you can use any ratchet to apply tension to the bolt and crush the rivnut. The main downside is that you need to spin the entire tool to remove it once the rivnut is set. Other than that, it seems like it'd be simpler, more convenient, and faster to use 👍🏽
Yeah, i got really confused when he made the handle so short witch after it pivots.. finally trying to use 3 handles at the same times... nah not good solution. Instead cut slot on opposite side of the handle, all the way to back. Since this is such thick material i dont think bending is a issue, then weld a peace into the bolt that slides in the groove preventing bolt from turning. If you add screw from side, this enables to lock the bolt in place so it wont drop out and if anything i would make lock ring groove for the trust bearing instead, so it wont drop ou when you swap between different rivet nut sizes. With this you can make tool that can swap heads. Perhaps even modify the bottom end so you can just slide you largest bolt intended to be used in this into the holder and make smaller tread sizes on that, enabling to swap tread sizes that way. Similarly on the tightening nut you sure dont want to remake whole part so machine peace of that round bar so there is hex on the middle with locking screw to tie it into the nut and now you have handle that stays with the tool and only needs to swap the nut when it wears out in far future. Also allows you to use daka daka gun if you have lots of rivets nuts to install if you cut or turn the bolt head down. Though air daka daka would be advised with adjusting the pressure so you dont snap anything. With this you have almost everything easily swappable with out need to do whole part new and allows to use it in different tread sizes. If i would install many rivet nuts, i would get machine treaded rod, not normal M what ever for longer service life. Only thing that might cause issues is the friction between the rotation stopper/tab, but you could machine a slot sideways into the slot and cut say peace of tile or teflon for the tab slide against. That is how i would do it.. just need lathe and mill to manufacture this tool :D
Rivnuts are adictive, once you start using them you put then in pretty much everything, so buying a Gun is prehaps not so bad after all. They also come in countersunk, but don´t hold up quite so well, in which case making a flair tool to countersink normal ones would be a nice project.
Or, make a dimple + die tool to dimple the surface of the sheet metal slightly bigger and slightly deeper than the flange of the rivnut, then the rivnut will sit flush nicely with the surface👍
There are also a hex shank type with a very small flange. Great for flush mounting, and with no chance of turning in the material
@@russcole5685Yep, the hex style are quite good, however they need an additional hex tool to punch a hex shaped hole in the panel prior to installing the hex rivnuts😁
Lol. This is very true. I bought a decent kit about a year ago thinking I just needed it for that one project. But like most tools. Once you have it you find a million different reasons to use it lol
Wait until you discover plus nuts.
I use rivnuts quite frequently if you put them anywhere likely to corrode. Put some red Loctite around the section that compresses. It will stop them from spinning and reduce corrosion.
I would modify that suggestion slightly. Use the Loc-tite 609 retaining compound instead of thread retainer. ( 609 is general purpose. There is a stronger version.) I've used this on small sliding rods and needed an arbor press to separate the parts. It's wonderful stuff.
Very nice tip. I wonder how 640 would work since it has slightly higher gap filling properties
@@jonnymiskatonic It would probably work just fine. I just always have the red to hand. A spinning rivnut is a sad thing.
Just did what you said for a few fab'd mount plates for truck's engine bay. Awesome tip thank you.
Antiseize or ox guard is a much better option. Red loctite can break down or not seal properly still allowing corrosion. Plus side of anti-seize specifically sensor safe will allow you to maintain a permanent ground while preventing corrosion. Red loctite will also not stop galvanic corrosion which can be an issue when working with aluminum.
Steel peg boards aren't thick enough to properly engage the hooks, but that is only half the the problem. The biggest problem is peg board holes come in two different sizes, Ø1/8" (3.2mm) and Ø1/4" (6.4mm) holes and most hook sets are advertised as "universal", meaning they work fairly well in the smaller hole peg boards but flop around like a hotdog in a hula-hoop in the larger hole boards, lol. If you have the larger hole style board you have to look for hooks that are specific to it. If you use an actual press-board peg board with the appropriate sized hooks and use the locking clips that come with most sets of hooks they work much better. Having said that, your method is way more rigid and durable. Thanks for another great video.
12:16 - after cutting the majority of the thrrad, the die bottoms out leaving a taper of partially cut threads. For some applications (like for pegbook hooks) this may be useful as it causes the hook to resist unscrewing.
.
However other times it is annoying and you can't get the nut to seat. You need to grind a relief, an extra step that weaken the bolt.
.
The solution is to flip the die over and run it back down the thread. For small threads you will get it all the way down, like how a bottoming tap works in a blind hole.
If it still won't pull down 100%, either relieve the shoulder with a dremel, or run a countersink into the nut to create a tiny counterbore.
I admire your commitment to continue using a hand hack saw. I quickly went out and got the cheap 4x6 horizontal band saw from harbor freight. Honestly, for the price? It works like an absolute champ. Ive had zero stalls or anything of the sort so far from bar stock to solid round stock upwards of 2".. 4140 steel tool steel crs hrs etc. Honestly it has all the power it really needs, and shars sells starret blades of the proper size. It is definitely worth the investment and it can be modified into a "better" saw. Ive added coolant and a hydraulic cylinder to mine for feed control. The stock spring works fine just hard to adjust on the fly so i found myself cutting far slower than necessary
I would say just cut slow, not full wt. of the saw only till the blade has broken in and then let it cut at full speed for longer blade life.
Yup, it really does the job in a small shop. Mine works great for what I need and I got lucky that it cut very, very close to 90deg in the vertical out of the box.
Use one of those ratcheting wrenches on the tool, so you dont have to change position. Resize the bolt head to smaller size so it fits inside the ratcheting wrench and just use smaller nut on ratchet.
To increase the usability of the tool I would use a ratchet spanner instead of the fixed one to drive the "pull" nut and just a jointed spanner to lock to bolt.
Nice tool. Another technique (if there's not a hole already) are the Flowdrill Thermal Friction Drills. They use friction (no cutting edges) to heat up the sheet until it's hot enough for the bit to push through and bend/flow the metal inwards to form a small tube. This can then be given more threads than the sheet thickness itself would allow. Cool as hell to watch in use. ha
Expensive and need quite a lot of power/rpms for that...
A very nice little tool.
FWIW, pegboard was originally made of 1/8" thick pressed paper board (Masonite), and drilled with 1/8" holes. Pegboard hooks are designed to fit those specs. When hung in that material they stay put.
It is no surprise that they have no purchase in sheet metal "pegboard." Really, sheet metal pegboard ought to have hooks designed for its larger holes and thinner sheet.
Yeah the metal pegboard he has seem to have 1/4" holes when using 1/8" thick hooks (or whatever the metric equiv is).
I'd use a ratchet wrench to turn the nut
It was painful to watch how slow that must've been
Great idea
I was thinking it was an air ratchet job too.
Even better.
Reverse thread the nut and bolt to you can fix the nut in place and just use the bolt for both holding and crushing the insert
Thanks for posting. A few constructive criticisms:
1. Your tool is rather bulky - and in particular - sticks a long ways out from the surface into which you're inserting the rivnut. For easy-access installations, a more typical rivnut setting tool is WAY faster and easier. For tight-access rivnut installation (very typical in cars), a much shallower tool is often required.
2. Rather than turning down and threading the tip of the M10 screw for the rivnut thread - drill/tap the M10 screw and use a piece of Grade 8+ all-thread for the arbor. This makes it replaceable should it break in the future.
3. Use a left-hand thread M10 screw. It'll prevent the phenomenon where you THINK your setting the rivnut; when you're ACTUALLY unthreading the rivnut off the tip off your arbor. Your tool counts on the thrust bearing to prevent any wrenching torque from being imparted onto the head of the rivnut - which works most of the time, but not always. This phenomenon is particularly bad in blind-hole installations where you can't see what you're doing. The arbor will rip the last couple threads out of the rivnut, leaving a partially-set rivnut in a tight-access spot. No choice then but to finagle a die grinder in there. It sux.
Rivnuts are a better way to improve the pegboard functionality, but where only moderate strength is needed, I used a method common on Japanese electronic equipment; use a dimpling and piercing tool instead of a drill to punch a hole in the sheet metal that is bent inwards around the circumference of the hole. You then have enough depth to tap about 3 turns of thread. It is very quick to do and nothing could be cheaper.
French (Schneider) electric industrial gear have such threads since 50s, i think that they use large punch presses beacouse they in some cases draw lots of material, and almost achive full lenght of threads. Metric standard says that you must have 80% of thread diametar.
The PERFECT job for a fly press!!!
You can hack these holes using a tapered centerpunch, just need it to be very gentle and have an accurate sized mandrel (about thread minor dial + 2x metal thickness, then trial and fit).
.
For speed of assembly, find/harvest "trilobular" self-threading screws. These are easily identified by a slightly "Wankel Rotor" shaped end, which reforms and cuts the thread automatically. The screws are used in most automated assembly, so easily found in used equipment.
.
Old DVD players use 3mm. Dog beds and other frames are usually 4mm. A fabulous source for larger ones is old treadmills where they use up to 6mm for the legs, handles, frame etc.
- Grab them with a hex driver when you are harvesting the DC mother and Driver board 😉
@@johncoops6897 ; Re fly press, spot on, and in using a tapered punch and die/mandrel, you get to attach metal to sheet metal without the gap caused by the head of the Rivnut.
@@keithammleter3824 - my dad was an engineer and I have inherited his tools. Aside from press tools there is also a metal tin full of hand punches, including a variety of those long tapered metal threadform punches.
.
It's easy to see how much they have been used since they have dents in the sides of the (usually rectangulat) handle from being repeatedly bashed to unstick them from the hole! 😃
This is a fantastic, simple tool! I would go to a pawn shop and look for a switching ratcheting wrench (spanner for you across the pond) and use that to replace the manual one if you spend a lot of time working on it. Or run down to your local cheap hardware store for a cheap one. The $10 would save a lot effort for lots of installations.
Thumbs up for the demonstrational chop sticks.
0:55 Normally, the thread should have the depth of the Diameter in steel. A M8 should have at least 8mm of depth. In aluminium you should have the factor 1.5 (12mm depth)
Thank you, I have always wondered this, especially if I was to use a helicoil for repair.
@brianm9962 It depends on the thread size and pitch. But if you use 1x diameter, you aren't wrong. It is the easy and quick version.
I don't calculate the depth of the thread, because it is already cut
Don't get me wrong, this is very nice and I do like it. Especially making the handle hinged and the wonderful ball end... But.
I was really hoping you were going to make a cam over tool to do it instead of the usual two nut method but with a very fancy washer.
Not knocking what you did which was top notch for what not knocking what you did which was top notch for The tool it is, I'm just looking for some kind of lever actuated cam pull that's better than the cheap $15 rivnut tool.
Some advice that I’ve received from my father regarding rivnuts is that they aren’t designed for repeated use. Essentially, if you plan on using them for something that is meant to be disassembled and reassembled numerous times they don’t hold up very well. Just something to keep in mind.
If you want to use them repeatedly, fixing them with 1-2 spotwelds will usually keep them from loosening over time.
They also make stainless ones
@@ExplosiveBoy93At that point, just weld regular nuts to the metal and save a step.
Pretty cool design, thanks for the idea, i made one with a few changes… i made the body out of aluminum and pressed 4 neodymium magnets in the face, that helps keep it straight. i also made interchangeable tips for different threads and have the bolt fixed in place with minimal movement allowed to compress the rivet, i have the bearing fixed in place as well… all are minor changes i consider personal preference, overall your idea and it works great!! thanks
Maybe add a recess for rivnut head so the bottom of the tool is flush with sheet metal when you install rivnut? Use a washer sized to thickness of rivnut head? That way you will keep sheet metal flat and don't make it bulge?
For non-industrial stuff, a bulbed rivet nut is great. No special tool, just push it through, then feed a bolt through, and tighten to expand it. Boom an easy threaded insert nut.
That is a great rivnut tools for very tight spaces wish I could meet one but don't have a lathe
That pegboard idea is excellent. Definitely my next project.
Anything with two or more anchorage points will have the additional benefit of making the peg board more rigid. Good idea. Always enjoy your videos.
Bruce here,great piece of work and as a plus you thru in what to do with peg board you fix is tons better than my hot glue.
We use $300 air nutsert tools at work. Our nutserts have ridges on the flange for friction as they are spun in at 90PSI.
I have loved and HATED the exact same thing about pegboard… very nicely done.
Hey dude, just a heads up there's an editing error with just a black screen between 0:44-0:56. I love your content
Just gone in and snipped out. Uploaded the wrong file 😑
same at 12:04
Your method is even better than the commercial tool. With your shoulder on it, the insert crushes nicely centred. My tools often leave the insert slightly off centre, which causes lots of alignment issues.
I do hundred of rivnuts a month and will definitely be copying your shoulder idea when I build my tool.
Thanks again for another great video!!
If you do hundreds a month get a real tool. This is the slowest most manual way possible to install a rivnut
For a while, I worked for a company that used rivnuts by the 10,000's. My recommendation would be to look into an Avdel 74200. Pneumatic tool that will cut down installation time from a minute per rivnut to a few seconds.
@@russellv6234 the cheap harbour freight or princess auto tools handheld ones only cost $20 and are all done by feel. They wear out ridiculously fast and rarely can your hands do a good job of applying the right pressure consistently.
My tool cost about $300 and looks kinda like an 18” bolt cutter. You set it once and installation is consistent with excellent repeatability, but it still sometimes gets the rivnut slightly off center or angled if it gets misaligned during the first squeeze.
To go to an air operated installer I would be upwards of $1500 and still has the same problems if not perfectly operated.
I have a design I’m working on for a manual tool that hopefully will eliminate the misalignment issue, and was simply saying that the shoulder idea he has used will be incorporated into my design as well
I use rivnuts a lot in my line of work and never have an issue with using standard tools to set these. Sounds like you have some operator error going on. I have every tool from plier type to dual handle, to impact gun. When used properly, every tool sets perfectly. The most I have spent on any of these tools have been $70.
Cool video Maybe some options for most people that don't have a lathe
I have the Astro Pneumatic ADN38 that I use with a drill. Absolute game changer for easy to access jobs. But I would make my own like you did if I had the tools. Nice work
Adding a ratcheting spanner to that setup would make it a lot more enjoyable
Would a key on the bolt and a keyway through the body of the tool remove the necessity of holding the bolt with the socket?
This is an insane amount of work to save $110 on the real tool, and you only have one size. The Marson give you everything from #6 to 3/8. This is a case of a solution looking for a problem.
Nah just an afternoon trapped in a workshop on my day off
Didnt appear too insane to me.. neat little project. For what they are, the specialised tools are an insane amount of money though, and include mixed reviews.
Tool looks great, you could probably add a notch and a spring loaded locking pin at the small end to keep the main bolt from spinning on demand, allowing you to set the depth, lock it and then use an impact gun or the ratchet on the nut itself rather than the static bolt. Using a spanner is all fun and games until you have to do it 15 times over in a fiddly spot.
Must admit I bought a kit with a selection of sizes of rivnut from M3 to M12 and the application tool for less than £40 off Amazon a couple of months ago, a VonHaus, strange name for a chinese company. So far it has been great, not a lot of use yet, but when you need a rivnut, you need a rivnut.
Pegboard made of wood/hardboard holds the hooks in place much better (a nice firm press/friction fit). Your sheet metal pegboard looks like it is very thin and has oversized holes.
a tip: for metric fasteners, use a bolt with resistance class of 10 or 12
I used to hate pegboard until I found some square holed pegboard with little plastic locking clips that hold the pegs in place. Called lockboard or something, I can't remember right now.
Lets me keep all my oversized tools and consumables hanging nicely where I can see them instead of digging through a dozen drawers trying to figure out where I stashed them at.
That is a great tool! If you use a ratcheting open end wrench, it would make the operation much smoother.
Personally I like to load my twist drill in my lathe with the corner edge as if it is a boring bar. The load seems to cut best and wear drills better that way too. What a fantastic build! Thanks for sharing!
I have an idea for your next shop tool project. A homemade metal cutting bandsaw.
that pegboard hook solution is hilarious how good it works
Nice simple shop improvment. Good on ya'!
I would have made the bolt keyed and use a electric drill to drive the nut because i´m lazy. Maybe ill do something like that in future, but as said, i´m lazy.
Thanks for sharing. Mine I made with a grade 8 Allen head bolt and a gearwrench pass-thru socket. I guess you could use a pair of ratchet wrenches on a hex bolt.
I just had the idea that if the depth of the sheet metal isn’t critical (as in contrast it would be in let’s say square pipe), you could just use the m8 screw and tap an m6, m5, m4,... section on it. So you could use one bolt for all these sizes...?
That’s an awesome idea and a really nice tool! It occurs to me that you could make it even easier to use by replacing the compression nut with one that is bigger than the bolt head. Then you could use a ratchet spanner to install the riv nut.
I wrote the same comment without reading yours first! 🤘
I mean, It’s an easy improvement!
If you want to improve a little this project, make a custom bigger nut (the one that is actually black) and make it bigger, so that a ratchet wrench can be used instead of a regular wrench.
That would make the process of fixing the rivet quite faster.
I was thinking about a ratcheting wrench to but couldn’t you just use one the way it is. The wrench should slip over past the bolt down to the nut if they’re the same size.
@@johnnyb362 Yes. Although it's rather annoying to pass a same size ratcheting wrench over a nut/bolt. Increasing the size of the nut in this project solves that annoyance.
I hate buying Chinese tools,but that has become a fact of life, especially for a tool that I may not use frequently. That said, Amazon lists several Rivet Nut tools under $40 (USD). The kits come with a tool, 6 to 8 different size mandrels, 10 riv nuts for each size, and a plastic carrying case to keep it all together. I just bought one and I'm about to go out to the garage and use it on a project. I'll let you know how it does.
You should look into a Porta band, it would make your life alot easier. Plus you can get an add on to make it like a bandsaw. I understand now that you don't have room for a horizontal bandsaw after watching a previous video. I can relate to that.
Lubricate the compression nut and the bolt thread with a decent moly grease. Amazing how much easier it makes the work and the threads will last longer as well.
I wonder how well your thrust washers are going to hold up being soft. I say this as a neighbour did this with a similar sized needle thrust bearing on a Myford Super 7 cross slide IIRC and it didn't last long before he replaced them with the proper hardened washers. I ran into him at the local bearing supply shop where he was collecting the thrust washers and he told me the tale.
flanged nut would help for sure. I thought the same thing, if/when I make this tool I'll probably also make a nut with a thick flange for the purpose. And use LH threads.
Great! Now a two handed job is a three handed job. Nice machining.
I also made video about diy simple rivnut tool, its got some good views and earned me normal rivnut tool 😂
Slipping a ratcheting spanner on before the socket would make life quick and simple.
I really like your mechanical skill. I am learning the the way to apply the lathe. My son gave me a used lath. I always wanted one even if it is used.
You’re still awesome man keep up the good work brother
Im keen to see where this Tool, fits into your future projects.
You make the Tools you need , then reveal the REAL project 😉
Have you ever considered making a proper Taper Turning Attachment, for your new Late ?
Nice tool! You could exyend the range of RivNuts even further by drilling a larger hole thrpugh the body and turning flange bushings to use with the smaller thread RivNuts. RivNuts are also great in aluminum, and anywhere where you must frequently insert and remove fasteners in thin or soft metal.
Nice!
Seems to be working better then the original tools that I have for this. At least if you don't have enough strength in your hands to deform the nuts. Just wondering how long the bolts and nuts will last since they will wear when tightening them.... but a lot cheaper too then the special bolts for the original tools.
Very handy this tool, I have used lots and lots of this rivnuts on bikes, tools, rooms with metal walls like containers and such.
Most used here are M4, M5, M6 and lots and lots of M8.
It would be allot easier if you used an Allen head bolt. That is how the one I have is engineered. I bought it from a company here in the USA that specializes in fasteners like rivnuts , I won’t name the company because I’m sure they have a Patton on it. The nut that you turned with wrench was about 38.1mm so it is easier to grab with the wrench.
If only I had a bunch of expensive machining equipment to make a cheap rivnut tool!
Subbed! Quite a nice take on rivnut tool compared to others even the cheapy ones that you pull together with 2 hands.
What would really be interesting, since you seem to have a nice shop full of tool, is a design where you hold with the wrench and can use an impact or drill to spin the nut. That one might take a bit more thinking.
Mill a slot in the bolt. Drill and pin through the body and the bolt. Turn the nut, loose the ratchet.
They are made of many different metals, not just Steel, there's aluminum, bronze, stainless steel and probably many more variations. You do really need a good tool for steel and stainless steel, they are hard as heck and cheap tools just won't provide enough lever or be strong enough to handle needed strength
At least the tool is conceptually very simple so there are ample ways to make them!
6:50 that's a tool I've never seen, neat and something to remember!
really nicely done! not too elaborate or too janky. You struck a good balance. I'm sure you'll use that tool a lot in the future!
great idea making your own rivnut tool but not everyone has a lathe and a milling machine 😂.
enjoyed your video.
Pegboard peg lock inserts are fairly cheap and quick. "pegitz" Just an FYI
Neat.
Could you lock the nut in place in the tool then use your socket wrench to move the bolt in and out? This would eliminate the need for the second wrench.
I agree peg board is one of the best but also worst Organization tools in the shop
Given all the extra holes to work with in this particular case I'd take strips of flat bar long enough to span two holes, with a threaded hole in one end and a plain one in the other, as anchor nuts.
i use zipties to fix tool holders to peg board. It work.
3 threads of engagement are req'd to "break" the bolt.
I don't have a metal lathe so I used half a dozen flat washers and smeared some grease on the one next to the nut. One open end wrench. one box end wrench. make sure the washers fit the bolt with very little space. Fender washers work good. voila'
There are plastic pegboard locks that are fine for most usages. Cheap too. There are also several types of self locking peg hooks.
I don’t know if there are different styles but I bought some off eBay years ago. Wasn’t a huge fan. Cheers
Small improvement, insert a long neck hex socket onto the nut with a handle so that you don’t need a wrench on the end, and install a ratcheting spanner on the jam nut so that you don’t have to remove the moving the spanner,
7:10 Holy chatter batman! As far a pegboard goes, you need the plastic peg locks. Holds everything in place. For metal pegboards, they have "pegboard hook locks" which are a plastic insert that helps secure the hook. I personally wouldn't use metal pegboards since there's little friction.
I'm always amazed by what you build. continued success
Your content is awesome. Great work. You're definitely going to end up buying a rivnut gun. It's absolutely worth the money
I only have bad experiences with rivnuts, especially the aluminium kind. On several occasions the thread of the rivnut stripped instead of it properly expanding. I had to drill them out etc, sometimes even damaging the hole. Those were m3 rivnuts in thin plate steel. But maybe it's just bad quality rivnuts and rivnut tool. You cannot buy these in hardware stores in my country, so I got them from alie.
I haven’t used alu ones but I too have heard bad things about them
If you key the bolt to the body you can cut the bolt head off and use the ratchet or an impact driver to tighten the nut to expand the rivnut much quicker
Yes you could.
Hey there mate, another awesome video. I have been trying to grow my channel, so i have been watching a lot of your channel lately looking at how you create has given me some good pointers. Keep up the good work and keep creating.
LOVE RIVNUTS! Harbor freight has a very cheap tool.
So. Harbor Freight here in the states sells a threaded insert / rivet tool. But no refills of the inserts / rivets.
Tool and pack is like $22 pre tax.
Thanks for those great ideas👌and greetings from Luxemburg🖖
My favorite idea here was the peg board lol. I already got a cheap rivnut tool
Props to your machining skills and enjoyed the video! However, I'll stick to a quick purchase on Amazon 😂
Rivnuts are ALSO available in Stainless Steel and Aluminum!
Metric and Imperial thread sizes.
Well, of course they are available in various types 🙄
this couldnt have come at a better time. Just got a peg board and was thinking about a solution to hang things like battery chargers etc
Beautiful craftsmanship.
All it needs to make it better/easyer to use... a kind of fork that goes around the spanner to hold it in place. That way you only need to hold 1 handle
They have their place but I’ll choose any other type of fastener before settling on rivnuts.
Can’t get over the fact this man has a machine shop but still cut the round bar with a hacksaw
Not sure if possible because I don't have the info handy but could you do 4mm, 5mm and 6mm on the same bolt in that order from the end of the bolt? Just step down to each size. It could be a 3 in one tool.
Great vid and keep em coming@
If you use a GearWrench, ratcheting box wrench, it will much smoother. I second the comment about a dab of red Locktight. One other tip, which is why the GearWrench is important, once you start setting the rivnut, do NOT stop until it is fully compressed! That material is being work hardened before your very eyes, be Speedy.
As usual, terrific work, and commentary.
It would be cool if the base of the tool had a hexagonal hole for the bolt to go into eliminating the need for the socket wrench.
But that bottom nut does all the jacking, we don’t want to turn the top one
Excellent job and excellent tool, as always. But it needs third hand for operating... 😉
Cool creation! Nice work.
Optimization idea: instead of using a separate ratchet to keep the bolt from spinning, incorporate that feature into the tool somehow. Then you only have one stationary handle to hold instead of two.
One straightforward approach (not the best, but easy; would probably require a longer bolt):
1) Weld/epoxy the hex end of a socket to the rear of the tool body.
2) Cut the square-drive piece off (so it's just a cylinder with hexagonal interior
3) Cut the head of the bolt off
4) Weld/epoxy a nut in the middle of the bolt, so that it lives in the hex section when the tool is installed in the rivnut
5) Use a large hardened washer to seat against the back of the socket
6) Add the thrust bearing and the tension nut
Now you only have a single stationary handle, and you can use any ratchet to apply tension to the bolt and crush the rivnut. The main downside is that you need to spin the entire tool to remove it once the rivnut is set. Other than that, it seems like it'd be simpler, more convenient, and faster to use 👍🏽
Yeah, i got really confused when he made the handle so short witch after it pivots.. finally trying to use 3 handles at the same times... nah not good solution. Instead cut slot on opposite side of the handle, all the way to back. Since this is such thick material i dont think bending is a issue, then weld a peace into the bolt that slides in the groove preventing bolt from turning. If you add screw from side, this enables to lock the bolt in place so it wont drop out and if anything i would make lock ring groove for the trust bearing instead, so it wont drop ou when you swap between different rivet nut sizes. With this you can make tool that can swap heads. Perhaps even modify the bottom end so you can just slide you largest bolt intended to be used in this into the holder and make smaller tread sizes on that, enabling to swap tread sizes that way. Similarly on the tightening nut you sure dont want to remake whole part so machine peace of that round bar so there is hex on the middle with locking screw to tie it into the nut and now you have handle that stays with the tool and only needs to swap the nut when it wears out in far future. Also allows you to use daka daka gun if you have lots of rivets nuts to install if you cut or turn the bolt head down. Though air daka daka would be advised with adjusting the pressure so you dont snap anything. With this you have almost everything easily swappable with out need to do whole part new and allows to use it in different tread sizes. If i would install many rivet nuts, i would get machine treaded rod, not normal M what ever for longer service life. Only thing that might cause issues is the friction between the rotation stopper/tab, but you could machine a slot sideways into the slot and cut say peace of tile or teflon for the tab slide against.
That is how i would do it.. just need lathe and mill to manufacture this tool :D