WJ Knuckle Swap on a YJ + C gussets, DOM steering, tube seals
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Getting started on the Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ knuckle swap for my Wrangler YJ and almost finishing. This has been a long process but it is pretty much done! Adding strength to my Dana 30 to reliably run 35 inch tires with a locker.
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TOOLS
Grease needle - amzn.to/3E1pSFR
Wobble sockets - amzn.to/3E2lxCn
Axle seal installer - amzn.to/3E25xQK
USA made torque wrench - amzn.to/3Ww4csG
36mm socket - amzn.to/3hh6jQU
PARTS
Chromoly axle shafts and block off plate - amzn.to/3U7utfv
C gussets - amzn.to/3T63mQD
Tube seals - amzn.to/3Ub23RU
Standard inner seals - amzn.to/3T9hUyV
This is coming out better than I thought. You're doing a fine job! 😉
1991 Wrangler Renegade here, and doing quite a bit of the same. Have never done fabrication, but I’m getting the trial by fire. Just finishing installation of Mazda RX8 seats, and where I had to do quite of bit of fabrication, it’s all from recip saw, grinder, drill then bolt-on. It’s primed to weld, but I have no experience with it…suppose it’s time to learn. Glad I found you, brother. Keep at it.
You will enjoy learning to weld, it's the most fun part of fab
Looks sick man! I'll be watching for updates, can't wait to see final product. Very intrigued to see the 8.8 swap. I plan on doing the same with my yj as it's looking like my pinion got into it with my carrier and I feel like fixing it is a waste of time with only 33"s on it. Keep it up man!
Thanks! Need to get my lift installed and drive around to make sure the springs are settled in before I swap the 8.8 and weld the brackets on. Would like to set the pinion angle without needing shims.
Did you have any clearance issues between your drag-link/pitman-arm and tie rod? What pitman arm did you use? I just installed WJ knuckles and a WJ pitman arm, wish I did not put 1ton TRE over the knuckle because I have 2 inches between the tie rod and the rod end on the pitman arm… agh. I gotta change something
How much lift do you have? I use a flat pitman arm.
Hi. I'm copying everything you did with my 87. I have the WJ Knuckles. I want to get the 1 ton steering through Parts Mike. How did you go about measuring? Did you have to install the passenger WJ knuckle to get the measurement to the pitman arm? I'm not sure how to get my measurements for the threaded bar? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Correct install the knuckles and have the weight of the jeep on the suspension with jackstands under the axle. Take measurements and just call Parts Mike with those measurements and they will make the kit for you.
great upgrades! but I gotta say I was a little sad you painted those beautifully machined 7075 aluminum steering links
Thanks! They are actually DOM not aluminum, I liked the look too but they were starting to develop rust where I was touching them.
@@HardEarnedBacon oh nevermind then! I thought they were stinky fab 7075 links. great series on the yj!
did you need longer hub bolts with the hub spaced out? im in the process of gathering my last few pcs to do this swap to my yj. there isnt a whole bunch of info for this swap to a yj. everyone does it for xj and tj. thanks
No the stock bolts were long enough
@@HardEarnedBacon thank ya sir
I didn't see you cover the addition of spacers for the calipers to offset them like the wheel bearings, did you find another solution?
They're in there, I mention and explain them at 10:25 and you can see me slide the bottom one in during final assembly at 25:19, then you can see the top one peeking out when I'm torqueing the bolts. Bolt size is at 23:30.
Were the offset tie rod ends required? It seems that normal 1 ton tie rod ends would work. What was hitting that you needed them offset?
Diff cover
@@HardEarnedBacon I'm just mocking mine up tonight. It comes close to the diff cover at full lock (1/8") but does not hit. I just cut off the trac bar mount from the axle housing, because I was hitting that.
@@Bobbywolf64 Are you using the stock cover
@@HardEarnedBacon Yes. I doubt I could run a heavy duty cover without changing at least one joint to offset.
What size tapered reamer/drill bit did you use for the 1 ton TRE's? - thank you.
7 degrees or 1.5" tpf I think
What ball joints did you use? I know you said Moog but did YJ or WJ ball joints be needed, up and lower???
YJ upper WJ lower
@@HardEarnedBacon Awesome video. Why YJ upper, WJ lower for the ball joints? Thanks
@@dennisphelan2404 YJ uppers are the same taper as WJ uppers. The lowers are a slightly different taper so it is recommended to use a WJ lower for the WJ knuckle.
Beeeeeeef
1 ton of beef 😎
What make and model hubs did you use? 99.5+ xj hubs?
Standard YJ. I think later model TJ hubs have longer studs but it isn't necessary.
Thinking of doing this swap, but with heim joints, on my 92 YJ. I have a 15 inch wheel. How can I avoid those clearance issues? Also, did your YJ brake lines hook up well to the new WJ calipers? How was your braking?
If you have 3.75" of backspacing or less you "should" be ok. My new beadlocks fit fine and are 15x8 with 3.75BS. Can't confirm how well heims will fit though since I am using 1 ton TREs. You may need to get extended brake lines depending on your setup because the brake line mounting location on the WJ calipers is lower than the factory YJ calipers. I added extended stainless lines AND relocated my hardlines in preparation for my 4.5" lift. I can lock the brakes up no problem but have also added a bigger master cylinder and booster. Check out my latest couple of videos for more details.
@@HardEarnedBacon thanks for this. I have the same exact amount of backspacing (3.75) and either 8 or 10 inches of width (can’t recall). So it seems like it should work.
I saw your MC and booster upgrade vid. Yet did you try the WJ brakes out with your old MC and booster? I’m hoping to not have to update the braking system under my hood and was wondering if I would be good with what I have given the size of those WJ calipers. Let me know your thoughts!
Also, I have new ball joints in my YJ. Would I be able to use these for the WJ knuckle swap? Will using YJ ball joints be ok?
@@jeremysyrop4552 my factory master cylinder was shot and had to be replaced anyway so I didn't really get to test the WJ brakes with the factory booster/master. It would probably be fine though. For balljoints the upper is the same on YJs and WJs but I used a WJ lower because it has a slightly different taper to it.
@@HardEarnedBacon this is super helpful! Do you think I’d still experience improved braking quality with using my 92 MC and booster with the WJ calipers? One of the main reasons I’m drawn to this swap is the potential brake improvement.
Also, you mentioned you chose bottom ball joints for a WJ. Would I be able to pull it off with my YJ ball joints, top and bottom?
@@jeremysyrop4552 it's a bigger rotor with more potential clamping force so as long as your stock parts are in good shape I'm sure you will have some improvement. Plus you gain crossover steering. There are a couple of other people I've seen do this swap that kept their stock lower balljoint and haven't had issues but just keep in mind that it is technically the wrong fitment and may cause or develop slop in the knuckle.
Do you have links for the steering?
If you call up Parts Mike and tell them what you want they will get you squared away, that's what I did. They will need a few measurements off your Jeep but otherwise it's just cut and threaded DOM.
Anyone done this with a SOA?
Yeah you just have to keep the TREs for the tie rod under the knuckle so that they don't hit the leaf springs.
Thanks for getting back to me. I’m still researching this. Do you know if you use a WJ hub if you have to use the spacers?
@@baustin450 it's been awhile so I don't remember the exact reason but the spacers are definitely needed. I believe it is to recenter the u-joint in the knuckle so that it doesn't bind and lock up when turning. Caliper spacers needed too since the rotor is farther out.
Okay, thanks again. I have the spacers and caliper spacers. I just didn’t know the purpose of them or if they are needed if I was going to use a WJ hub instead of a yj hub. Can’t really find anything with people using a WJ hub lol. I guess I need to look in to it more to see what the differances are.
@@baustin450 crossover steering and bigger brakes is the main reason
Its cast steel not cast iron man, you read/watched too many "welding experts" 70 series wire and weld it up man
Not sure what you are referring to with this comment unless you are suggesting that preheat and controlled cooling isn't needed for welding mild steel to cast steel, which is definitely incorrect.