WJ Knuckle Conversion (Welding on the Spacers)
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- A detailed video on how to weld the spacer flange to the WJ knuckles and why it is important to do so. This is a popular modification for all the Jeep Cherokees and ZJ Grand Cherokee and many Wranglers. I'm using the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee knuckles to improve braking and achieving true crossover steering. I have done this conversion years ago and this is one of my favorite mods I've done. With the combination of the WJ brakes in the front and ZJ disc brakes in the rear I can lock up all four tires with ease and that is with 35" tires.
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Great video Martin! I'm glad you took the the time to add another layer of information to the old WJ knuckle conversation. I've been wanting to do this swap since your older video came out. I might actually do it this time!
Thank you Dan, yeah the WG knuckle conversion is one of my favorite mods for the XJ. The braking power alone is absolutely incredible.
@@martinbuilt I Cant wait to try. Hey, what do you think about chopping off the upper WJ ear of the passenger side to avoid the interference of the sway bar mounts. It would be possible to connect both the tie rod and the drag link to the knuckle in the same location with heim jonts, right?. do you think that would create too much tie rod roll? id love to hear your thoughts on this.
I’m looking to do this for the ironrock off-road XJ long arm pro link kit with performance XJ calipers and rcv axles but don’t know if that will work or not
I am probably do this exact thing this weekend. Thanks for the video.
Please make a video if you do...
@@danhambrick6331 I plan on it
I just watched this again!!
I finally got all my stuff together, had to blast my spacers because they had a galvanized/anodized plating on them.
I wanted to see the process again, this was an excellent show👍
Thank you, Tony, glad to hear it worked out for you.
I believe these WJ knuckles are cast steel rather than cast iron, which is a good thing. Cast iron would really be a mess to weld. All the same, I think the pre and post heating caution is well deserved. Good video.
Thank you, you are right it is cast steel but I wouldn't skip the preheating and slow cooling.
Correct, the heating and cooling dynamics apply t both cast steel and cast iron, welds will crack if they cool at different rates. The biggest difference is the weld rod material with Iron requiring higher Nickel content. Iron is typically TIG'd in this case but to your point these are cast steel knuckles
Here we goooo!!! 8am Sunday lets get it!
Nice job Martin.I have my knuckles cleaned up and ready just haven't ordered the spacer yet...
That's awesome Dan, I have a link in the description if you're interested for the spacers.
Nice work!! Awesome details and techniques
Thank you!
Nice video
I've seen other cast welding (more for welding up cracks but they like to tap the weld with chipping hammer to shock
I just toss it back in the hot oven and drop temp slowly that way or on bbq grille if the wife is around not wanting car parts in her oven 😄
Thank you, glad you liked it. 👍😊
I’ve welded C gussets and trusses to dana axles and also welded on my spacers to my WJ knuckles and everytime i grind it’s cast steel. You don’t need to preheat it for cast steel and i have yet to have a crack either just welding my stuff and letting it cool normally
always great work Martin..keep it up..i always look forward to your videos.all the best too you.
Thank you appreciate it, have a great Thanksgiving!
@@martinbuilt and you my friend..all the best too you Martin.
What shielding gas did you use to weld this?
C25? Or tri-mix?
Thanks for the great video.
Thank you ..
Great video, however all my research points towards the knuckle being Cast Steel, not cast iron
Yea, nobody is gonna use cast iorn for the knuckle, at least not in the 20ith century.
Nice job Martin! Great video!
Great video Martin! ❤️🐞
Those welds are pretty tall. Are you sure you have good penetration and the weld didn't just build up on top?
Great video 👍🏽 well said👍🏽
Awesome as usual, Martin!! Where did you get the spacers? This would be a nice upgrade for my Rubicon.
I got them from Amazon there is a link in the description.
I'm spending my Friday night with Martin and Erza Brooks. 🥃👍🇺🇲
Have one for me!
@@martinbuilt I think I've got you covered... Lol.
@martin hello! I’m considering the WJ knuckle swap. If I also swap to WJ hub bearing and WJ axle, can I omit spacer install and will swapping to the WJ axle fix the axle issue coming off the shaft?
Im guessing this is how i put wj knuckles onto my tj dana 30 and keep my stud pattern the same
Hello Martin, why we need to install this spacer, is it necessary to offset the brakes?
it's not some much for the brakes, it's to center the U-joints/axle. If you don't use the spacer the axles will move in and out of the axle tube as you turn left or right.
Hey Martin I heard if I used a tj hub that I don’t need the caliper spacer. I was wondering if you knew anything about that.
I have heard that about the caliper spacer but you definitely need the bearing hub spacer.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the quick reply Martin
Great job
Can stock brakes be used with wj Nuckles? I dont want to put on larger brakes
The trick is heat um up weld them quickly then set them in sand when you finish to cool them evenly. Old welders trick.
Have you thought about making them and selling them? I would be a buyer
Yeah I might be able to do that. I was thinking about doing a video I'm going down to pick a part I'm showing how to pull a set off maybe I'll buy them while I'm there and weld up a set.
@@martinbuilt I'll take a set...
If you use nickle welding wire, that will help too.
Thank you
Great..
I'm glad you liked it thank you for watching.
What type of welding wire did you use I watched another video where they used 304 stainless is that needed for this
Yes, 304 stainless works great. That is what I used on the first set I welded up. I think on this set I used regular welding wire and it worked just as well.
What would be the problem if you put the entire assembly in the oven?
Yeah you can do an oven just don't tell your wife...😅
Martin , new image)))
What hub bearing assembly did you use? I'm doing a zj and the hubs are two different part numbers
I used the bearing hub assembly for the 98 Jeep Cherokee XJ. I believe the only difference between the two part numbers is the wheel stud length other than that I believe they're exactly the same.
@@martinbuilt there are different hubs for 99.5 and prior with composite rotors and 99.5-01 using cast rotors, which rotors u use will determine what your calipers need for spacing
@@mercedescherokee6853 the spacer that I show in this video must be used no matter what rotor you are using. The spacer is to center the axle U joints. There are another set of spacers that go between the caliper bracket and the knuckle those you may or may not need to use depending on the rotor combination.
I heard u can go with a 01 jeep hub and it's shorter? so no spacer needed
Yeah I've always heard it from people that have heard it from other people but never from anybody that has actually done this.
And none of that makes any sense, other things would have to be different as well not just the bearing hub assembly.
martinbuilt I guess if or when I do this mod I can have advance or Napa bring out both hubs 99 down and 01 and up to see if there shorter. it would help someone in case of not knowing how to weld or not having a welder. I've also herd of having JK hubs and outer axle shaft with your 760 u joint and xj Dana 30 inner shafts to convert to 5x5 bolt pattern up front
@@douglaschristian2909 I believe the spacer that people are talking about that don't need to be installed on the later models are the ones I installed on the brake calipiers.
what is the thickness of the spacer that is used in this video ?
i am looking into this also. i have an 98 tj, 98 xj, and 01 xj. i am going to my junk pile to see if i can find an old hub from the 98 and the 01 to compare... i do know there is a difference in hub length and rotors from 98 to 01 and everything else on the knuckles are the same...
martin might be right, it might just be the caliper spacer that is eliminated. i have also heard this from people that have head this, but i never have know anyone that has tried it...
so, short answer is NO...the 2001 hub is about 1/4" shorter.
the spacer that is used in this video is 1/4" thick
i think the hub spacer (that is in this video) is what you want to use 1990-1999.5 hubs and rotors.
and the spacer (not in this video, that is used between the calipers and knuckles) is what you need for the 1999.5-2001 hubs and rotors
typically if you have 1990 hubs, you need 1990 rotors, and if you use the 2001 hubs you need 2001 rotors.
so, *maybe* you could use 1990 hubs and with 2001 rotors instead of a spacer. (not positive, just theory)
CJ7-Tim on jeep Form said; "XJ D30 unit/bearing hubs, disk brake rotors, brake calipers, and axle shafts are interchangeable for all years 1990-2001, and for HP vs. LP. You just need to have the rotor type, match the hub type, cast vs. composite. Or, just swap the hubs and rotors as a matched set. The calipers are exactly the same, cast vs. composite or HP vs. LP. The only D30 parts that will not interchange, HP vs. LP, are the ring and pinion gears. Any XJ AMC or XJ Chrysler steering knuckle will fit on any XJ D30. (XJ, MJ, TJ, and ZJ, D30 axles can interchange most parts, so the 1999.5 cast/composite info may apply to all)."
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/any-difference-hubs-360959/
Are de ball joints hole with the same internal angle between Wj and ZJ?
Angle yes, diameter for the bottom one is different. You want WJ or JK ball joints (top is the same lowers are different from zj , tj, and xj)
By adding the spacer does it makes the front axle wider than the rear axle?
1st time anybody has ever asked that and actually never even thought about it and if it does make it wider you certainly can't tell.
@@martinbuilt
Most vehicles have a wider front axle from the factory. They design it that way for turning purposes. The rear axle is almost always narrower than the front.
@martinbuilt you want to do a set of these for me? I don't have a welder? If not any idea who might wanna work me up a set for my XJ?
I might be willing to do that. I was thinking about doing a video on How to Remove WJ Knuckles. Then I would have a set to weld up for you.
martinbuilt you on NAXJA? Or how can I DM you?
@@freefallin0321 I have a Facebook link in the description of this video. You can message me through that.
Does it have to be welded? Is sandwiching it in there no good?
I personally feel that yes it needs to be welded. If it was only going to be a street driven Jeep you could get away with it but for any type of off-road use I recommend welding the spacer to the knuckle. You're putting a lot of stress on those three bolts that hold the bearing hub assembly to the knuckle.
He explains exactly why they need to be welded
Yes, but...I guess I really don't know. Is the friction fit good enough or....
Long story short, I already welded mine on. It wasn't difficult, but I guess I have issues with commitment hence my asking.
Have had friends not weld theirs and beat the piss outta their rigs offroad for over a decade. I personally think sandwiched is just fine. Only debate would be the ease of install lending to the welded versions
Why cant you use the wj hub bearing for the swap?
Axle shafts lengths are different
ok , in all the videos out there they same the same used the knuckle spacer flage but no one say way
This will recenter the axle U-joints in the knuckle. Without it, as you turn left or right it will move the axle shaft in and out of the axle tube.
Why do you need the spacer to begin with?
This will recenter the axle U-joints in the knuckle. Without it, as you turn left or right it will move the axle shaft in and out of the axle tube.
what is the thickness of this spacer ?
1/4"
are you still in pahrump
I never lived there.